WO2020073212A1

WO2020073212A1 - A cosmetic composition containing flakes

Info

Publication number: WO2020073212A1
Application number: PCT/CN2018/109546
Authority: WO
Inventors: Weidong Song; Liang Chen
Original assignee: Beiersdorf Daily Chemical (Wuhan) Co. Ltd.; Beiersdorf Ag
Priority date: 2018-10-10
Filing date: 2018-10-10
Publication date: 2020-04-16
Also published as: WO2020074164A1

Abstract

A cosmetic composition comprising a) at least one polysaccharide selected from the group of gellan gum, carrageenan and pectin, and b) at least one amino acid surfactant according to formula (I), (I) Wherein R is an alkyl chain containing 10 to 20 carbon atoms, X is ether hydrogen or a methyl group and M ⁺ is an alkali metal ion or an ammonium ion. The cosmetic composition forms flakes in a one pot approach without an extra step.

Description

A cosmetic composition containing flakes

Technical Field

The present invention belongs to the cosmetic field and relates to a cosmetic composition which forms flakes in a one pot approach.

Background Art

A beautiful and attractive appearance is a desire for many people. One typical sign of such an appearance is a healthy and smooth looking skin. Therefore, in order to take care on the skin, it is for many people a daily routine to apply cosmetic products such as cleansing and moisturizing products.

In the development process of cosmetic compositions cosmetic companies mainly focus on the performance of the products, for example, in that the cosmetic compositions provide a specific caring effect or are efficient in cleansing the skin while being mild at the same time. However, it is well known that besides the performance of the cosmetic products their optically appearance is a decisive aspect for customers to buy the products. Therefore, it is essential for the market impact of the cosmetic products that they have unique optical appearance making them outstanding for the consumer.

One approach to provide such an optically appealing product is to disperse colored beads in the cosmetic composition. In previous years those beads used to be made of colored polyethylene. However, by using these products the polyethylene beads got released via the sewage system and water treatment into the environment. Therefore, the use of these polyethylene based beads is generally not desirable.

Some cosmetic companies, such as the Beiersdorf AG, decided to protect the environment by excluding polyethylene based beads from their products. Polyethylene beads are often replaced by beads formed by microcrystalline cellulose. One example of such a product is “Nivea Lemongrass &Oil” , which is disclosed under the Mintel GNPD database number 4112195. Beads formed by microcrystalline cellulose can commercially be purchased from companies such as J. RETTENMAIER &

GmbH + Co KG, Germany. The beads are usually added and slowly dispersed after preparing the cleansing composition, as the beads would be destroyed in the normal preparation process of a cleansing composition. Hence, an extra step is required to provide the final cleansing product.

Furthermore, the document EP 2942045 A1 discloses cosmetic compositions comprising alginate based pearls dispersed in an outer gel-phase. Both, the outer phase and the pearls are prepared in two separate steps and then, in a third step, mixed and filled into a dispenser.

The document WO 2018/015095 A1 discloses cosmetic compositions comprising hydrophobic flakes and methods making those flakes.

It should be noted that beads are understood as spherical structures looking like small regular formed balls. Flakes are understood as irregular shaped structures, which can be visibly distinct by the human eye.

The pure fact that the state of the art has taught a few technologies to provide flakes dispersed in cosmetic compositions should not obscure the point that there is a general need for novel technologies to provide new kinds of flakes in cosmetic compositions. In particular, it is desirable to provide flakes which are biodegradable and/or which are formed by naturally derived substances.

Summary of the Invention

Therefore, a fist objective of the present invention is the provision of cosmetic compositions comprising a new kind of flakes.

As described above, it often requires multiple steps to provide cosmetic products containing beads or flakes. In particular, it is regularly the case that the beads or flakes are prepared in a separate process and are added later to the remaining cosmetic composition. Hence, dispersing the flakes or beads in a cosmetic composition requires an extra step in the production process, which makes the production more expensive. Therefore, it is also desirable to provide a less complicated manufacturing process to provide a cosmetic composition including flakes.

It was now surprisingly noticed that flakes are formed in a cosmetic composition in the presence of

a) at least one polysaccharide selected from the group of gellan gum, carrageenan and pectin, and

b) at least one amino acid surfactant according to formula (I)

wherein R is an alkyl chain containing 10 to 20 carbon atoms, X is either hydrogen or a methyl group and M ⁺ is an alkali metal ion or an ammonium ion.

It was surprisingly noticed that the flakes are formed in situ, such that the later addition of flakes to the composition is no more necessary.

Accordingly, a first aspect of the present invention is a cosmetic composition comprising

b) at least one amino acid surfactant according to formula (I) , wherein R is an alkyl chain containing 10 to 20 carbon atoms, X is either hydrogen or a methyl group and M ⁺ is an alkali metal ion or an ammonium ion.

Another aspect of the present invention is the use of a) at least one polysaccharide selected from the group of gellan gum, carrageenan and pectin, and b) at least one amino acid surfactant according to formula (I) , wherein R is an alkyl chain containing 10 to 20 carbon atoms, X is either hydrogen or a methyl group and M ⁺ is an alkali metal ion or an ammonium ion to form flakes in a cosmetic composition.

Still another aspect of the present invention is flakes to be contained in a cosmetic composition characterized in that the flakes are formed by a) at least one polysaccharide selected from the group of gellan gum, carrageenan and pectin, and b) at least one amino acid surfactant according to formula (I) , wherein R is an alkyl chain containing 10 to 20 carbon atoms, X is either hydrogen or a methyl group and M ⁺ is an alkali metal ion or an ammonium ion.

Unless otherwise stated, all tests and measurements were performed under “normal conditions” . The term "normal conditions" refers to 20℃, 1013 hPa and a relative humidity of 50%.

All temperatures disclosed refer, unless otherwise stated, to a pressure of 1013 hPa.

If percentages by weight (%by weight) are given below without reference to a particular composition or specific mixture, these figures always refer to the total weight of the cosmetic composition. If ratios of certain components are disclosed without reference in the following description, these ratios always refer to weight ratios of the components.

If ranges for the weight of certain ingredients are disclosed, the disclosure includes not only the start and end values for the indicated ranges but also the individual values within the ranges in steps of 0.01%by weight.

The phrases "according to the invention" , "advantageous according to the invention" , "advantageous in the sense of the present invention" , etc., refer in the context of the present disclosure always to the composition according to the invention, the use according to the invention and the method according to the invention.

According to the present invention it is preferred if the polysaccharides selected from the group of gellan gum, carrageenan and pectin are contained in the cosmetic composition in a total quantity from 0.01%to 5%by weight, more preferably from 0.02%to 2%by weight and most preferably from 0.3%to 1%by weight, calculated to the total weight of the composition.

Gellan gum is a water-soluble anionic polysaccharide produced by the bacterium Sphingomonas elodea (formerly Pseudomonas elodea) . Basically gellan gum is a linear polysaccharide, wherein the repeating unit of the polymer is a tetrasaccharide consisting of one L-rhamnose, one D-glucuronic acid and two D-glucose units, which may be esterified with acetic acid and glyceric acid.

Following the description above, gellan gums generally differ in the degree of acylation, such that two different chemical structures can be distinguished. Gellan gums with a high acylation degree are according to formula (II) , while gellan gums with a low acylation degree are according to formula (III) .

In the formulas (II) and (III) n stands for an integer number in the range from 2 to 2000, preferably from 200 to 450.

In the case the composition according to the invention comprises gellan gum, it is further preferred if the gellan gum has a structure according to formula (III) . Furthermore, it is preferred according to the invention if the gellan gum according to formula (III) has a total mass in the range from 200000 to 300000 Da. Such a gellan gum can commercially be purchased under the trade name

CG-LA from the company CP Kelco.

Among the polysaccharides, the gellan gum, especially the gellan gum according to formula (III) , and/or carrageenan are preferably contained in the cosmetic composition. It is most preferred if gellan gum, in particular gellan gum according to formula (III) , is contained in the composition according to the invention.

In the case the composition according to the invention comprises gellan gum the total quantity of gellan gum, in particular the total quantity of the gellan gum according to formula (III) , is preferably in the range from 0.015%to 4%by weight, more preferably from 0.02%to 1%by weight and most preferably from 0.1%to 0.3%by weight, calculated to the total weight of the composition.

In the case the composition according to the invention comprises carrageenan the total quantity of carrageenan is preferably in the range from 0.015%to 4%by weight, more preferably from 0.05%to 2%by weight and most preferably from 0.1%to 1%by weight, calculated to the total weight of the composition. If carrageenan is contained in the composition according to the invention, the composition surprisingly feels more elastic.

Furthermore, it is preferred according to the invention, if the amino acid surfactant according to formula (I) is selected from the group of sodium cocoylalaninate, sodium lauroylglycinate and sodium cocoylglycinate, whereby sodium cocoylglycinate is most preferred.

Preferred embodiments of the invention are further therein characterized in that the composition solely comprises sodium cocoylglycinate of the substances according to formula (I) .

According to the invention it is further preferred, if the total quantity of the amino acid surfactant according to formula (I) is in the range from 0.5 to 20%by weight, more preferably from 1%to 15%by weight, still more preferably from 1.5%to 10%by weight and most preferably from 2%to 7%by weight, calculated to the total weight of the composition.

It is also further preferred, if the total quantity of sodium cocoylalaninate, sodium lauroylglycinate and/or sodium cocoylglycinate is in the range from 0.5 to 20%by weight, more preferably from 1%to 15%by weight, still more preferably from 1.5%to 10%by weight and most preferably from 2%to 7%by weight, calculated to the total weight of the composition.

Furthermore, preferred embodiments of the invention are therein characterized that total quantity of sodium cocoylglycinate is in the range from 0.5 to 20%by weight, more preferably from 1%to 15%by weight, still more preferably from 1.5%to 10%by weight and most preferably from 2%to 7%by weight, calculated to the total weight of the composition.

Moreover, it is preferred according to the invention, if the total quantity of further amino acid surfactants is less than 2%by weight, more preferably less than 1%by weight, still more preferably less than 0.5%by weight, still more preferably less than 0.2%by weight and most preferably 0%by weight, calculated to the total weight of the composition. The term “further amino acid surfactants” refers to all other amino acid surfactants except the surfactants according to formula (I) , preferably except sodium cocoylglycinate.

The cosmetic composition according to the present invention is preferably a cleansing composition, such as a shower cleanser or a facial skin cleanser, whereby the use as facial skin cleanser is more preferred than the use as shower cleanser.

In terms of the present invention it is further preferred, if the cosmetic composition contains water and the total quantity of water is in the range from 60%to 95%by weight, more preferably from 75%to 93%by weight and most preferably from 80%to 92%by weight, calculated to the total weight of the composition.

Furthermore, the cosmetic compositions according to the invention may contain at least one polyhydric alcohol containing 3 to 4 carbon atoms, e.g., glycerin. It was surprisingly noticed that polyhydric alcohol containing 3 to 4 carbon atoms can be used to adjust the size and the appearance of the flakes.

Embodiments of the invention which contain polyhydric alcohols containing 3 to 4 carbon atoms in the range from 0.5%to 15%by weight, preferably from 1%to 12%by weight, calculated to the total weight of the composition, surprisingly form flakes which have a cloud-like appearance. A cloud-like appearance is understood as the appearance of clouds in the sky, meaning that the flakes look a little bit transparent.

Other embodiments of the invention which contain polyhydric alcohols containing 3 to 4 carbon atoms in the range from more than 15%to 35%by weight, calculated to the total weight of the composition, surprisingly form flakes which look like solid and rigid flakes. The flakes are much smaller and look condensed in comparison to the cloud-like flakes described above.

Furthermore, it is also preferred according to the invention if the cosmetic composition comprises at least one antimicrobial agent selected from the group of phenoxyethanol, methylparaben, ethylhexlglycerin, 1, 2-decandiol and/or 1, 2-hexandiol.

In the case the cosmetic composition contains phenoxyethanol, it is preferred if the total quantity of phenoxyethanol is in the range from 0.1%to 1%by weight, calculated to the total weight of the cosmetic composition.

In the case the cosmetic composition contains methylparaben, it is preferred if the total quantity of methylparaben is in the range from 0.05%to 0.5%by weight, calculated to the total weight of the cosmetic composition.

In the case the cosmetic composition contains ethylhexlglycerin, it is preferred if the total quantity of ethylhexlglycerin is in the range from 0.05%to 0.6%by weight, calculated to the total weight of the cosmetic composition.

In the case the cosmetic composition contains 1, 2-decandiol, it is preferred if the total quantity of 1, 2-decandiol is in the range from 0.05%to 0.6%by weight, calculated to the total weight of the cosmetic composition.

In the case the cosmetic composition contains 1, 2-hexandiol, it is preferred if the total quantity of 1, 2-hexandiol is in the range from 0.05%to 0.6%by weight, calculated to the total weight of the cosmetic composition.

According to the present invention it is further preferred, if the cosmetic composition contains at least one pigment or dye, meaning those, which are listed in the “List of Colorants allowed in cosmetic products” in Annex IV of the Regulation (EC) No 1223/2009, as updated on the 28 ^th of September 2017. Hence, a dye which can be contained in the cosmetic composition according to the invention is for example known under the code Cl 42909.

The cosmetic composition of the present invention may further comprise at least one skin conditioning agent such as PEG-14M. Skin conditioning agents such as PEG-14M are preferably contained in the cosmetic composition in a total quantity from 0.1%to 2%by weight, calculated to the total weight of the compositions.

It was also surprisingly noticed that the properties of the flakes formed in the cosmetic composition can be adjusted by a number of parameters.

Although, the quantity ranges given above in regard to the amino acid surfactant according to formula (I) indicate that the most desirable flakes are formed in the ranges given above, it was generally also noticed that within this ranges the size of the flakes decreased with increasing quantities of the amino acid surfactant according to formula (I) . This is in opposite to the behavior noticed for the quantities of the gellan gum. For the gellan gum it was noticed that within the defined ranges the size of the flakes formed in the composition increased with increasing quantities of gellan gum. Hence, by combining the most preferred ranges of the sodium cocoylglycinate and of the gellan gum flakes were formed, which had the optimum size in the range from 0.5 mm to 10 mm. The size of the flakes is determined by measuring the distance between the most apart points of the flakes. The determined optimum size is always the average value of a measurement of at least 50 flakes formed in the cosmetic composition.

Detailed Description of the Invention

In the following, a number of embodiments of the invention will be described, which allow for specifically shaped flakes to be formed.

In a first preferred embodiment of the invention the cosmetic composition may contain all the ingredients described above. Within this embodiment the cosmetic composition is therein characterized that the M ⁺ in the formula (I) is an alkali metal ion, preferably a sodium ion. Thereby it is preferred, if the amino acid surfactant according to formula (I) is sodium cocoylglycinate.

Furthermore, in this first preferred embodiment it is preferred if the composition does not contain an additional polyvalent metal ion, in particular bivalent metal ions such as Ca ²⁺. That means that it is preferred if the total quantity of additional polyvalent metal ions, in particular bivalent metal ions such as Ca ²⁺, is 0%by weight, calculated to the total weight of the composition.

The term “additional polyvalent metal ion” , “additionally contains a polyvalent metal ion” or similar formulations used in this disclosure only refer to additionally added polyvalent metal ions but do not refer to polyvalent metal ions which may be contained as counter ions in the polysaccharides a) , especially in gellan gum. Even though the polysaccharides a) , especially in gellan gum, may contain polyvalent metal ions, it was noticed that these polyvalent metal ions do not affect the formulations according to the invention. Only in the cases additional polyvalent metal ions, e.g. calcium chloride, are added specific flake formations are observed as described herein.

Furthermore, in the first preferred embodiment of the invention it is also preferred if the total quantity of all further anionic surfactants contained in the composition is less than 2%by weight, more preferably less than 1%by weight, still more preferably less than 0.5%by weight, still more preferably less than 0.2%by weight and most preferably 0%by weight, calculated to the total weight of the composition.

According to the first preferred embodiment of the invention it is also preferred, if the cosmetic composition does not contain an amphoteric surfactant. In particular it is preferred, if the cosmetic composition according to the first embodiment does not contain cocamidopropyl betaine.

The flakes obtained in the first embodiment of the invention surprisingly have an appearance such as they mimic the shape of snowflakes. That means the flakes formed in the cosmetic composition look like crystals with dendrites expanding in all directions. The dendrites are rather small such that the crystals seem to be transparent. The example formulation Ex. 1 is a composition according to the first embodiment of the invention.

A second preferred embodiment of the present invention is therein characterized that the cosmetic composition additionally contains at least one additional polyvalent metal ion, preferably a bivalent metal ion, which is preferably Ca ²⁺. It was surprisingly noticed that by the addition of additional polyvalent metal ions, in particular a bivalent metal ion, which is preferably Ca ²⁺, dense, non-transparent cloud-like flakes are formed, which have an irregular shape. No dendrites are visible by eye when looking at the flakes formed in the presence of Ca ²⁺. Accordingly it is preferred, if the cosmetic composition of the second preferred embodiment contains at least one additional calcium containing salt, which is preferably calcium chloride.

In the case the cosmetic composition according to the second preferred embodiment of the invention additionally contains at least one additional polyvalent metal ion containing salt, preferably a bivalent metal ion containing salt, the total quantity of the salt is preferably in the range from 0.005%to 1%by weight, more preferably from 0.07%to 0.25%by weight and most preferably from 0.08 to 0.2%by weight, calculated to the total weight of the composition.

Following this, it is also preferred, if the cosmetic composition according to the second preferred embodiment of the invention additionally contains at least one additional calcium containing salt in the range from 0.005%to 1%by weight, more preferably from 0.07%to 0.25%by weight and most preferably from 0.08 to 0.2%by weight, calculated to the total weight of the composition.

It is also preferred if the cosmetic composition according to the second preferred embodiment of the invention additionally contains calcium chloride in the range from 0.005%to 1%by weight, more preferably from 0.07%to 0.25%by weight and most preferably from 0.08 to 0.2%by weight, calculated to the total weight of the composition.

In this second preferred embodiment of the invention it is also preferred, if the composition comprises gellan gum as polysaccharide and sodium cocoylglycinate as amino acid surfactant.

Furthermore, it is preferred according to the invention, if the cosmetic composition according to the second preferred embodiment of the invention contains at least one amphoteric surfactant, which is preferably cocamidopropyl betaine.

The total quantity of the amphoteric surfactant in the cosmetic composition of the second embodiment of the invention, is preferably in the range from 0.01%to 5%by weight, more preferably from 0.5%to 4%by weight and most preferably from 1%by to 3%by weight, calculated to the total weight of the composition.

Furthermore, it is preferred, if the total quantity of cocamidopropyl betaine in the cosmetic composition of the second embodiment of the invention, is preferably in the range from 0.01%to 5%by weight, more preferably from 0.5%to 4%by weight and most preferably from 1%to 3%by weight, calculated to the total weight of the composition.

Within the defined ranges for the polyvalent metal ion containing salts, for the calcium containing salts and in particular for calcium chloride it was noticed that the cloud shaped flakes increase their size with increasing salt concentration. The example formulation Ex. 2 is a composition which is according to the second preferred embodiment of the invention.

A third preferred embodiment of the invention is directed to a cosmetic composition which surprisingly forms flakes of a very small size, in particular less than 0.3 mm.

The third preferred embodiment of the invention is characterized in that the composition comprises at least one polysaccharide selected from the group of gellan gum, carrageenan and pectin, whereby gellan gum and/or carrageenan are preferred. If the composition according to the third embodiment of the invention contains gellan gum, it is preferred if the gellan gum has a chemical structure according to formula (III) .

Furthermore, the composition according to the third preferred embodiment of the invention contains sodium cocoylalaninate as amino acid surfactant. Preferably, the formulation does not contain another amino acid surfactant according to formula (I) .

It is further preferred, if the composition according to the third preferred embodiment of the invention additionally contains at least one polyvalent metal ion, preferably at least one bivalent metal ion, in particular Ca ²⁺.

In the case the cosmetic composition according to the third preferred embodiment of the invention additionally contains at least one additional polyvalent metal ion containing salt, the total quantity of this salt is preferably in the range from 0.005%to 1%by weight, more preferably from 0.07%to 0.25%by weight and most preferably from 0.08 to 0.2%by weight, calculated to the total weight of the composition. The polyvalent metal ion containing salt is preferably a bivalent metal ion containing salt, wherein the metal ion is preferably calcium. It is even more preferred, if the additional polyvalent metal ion containing salt is calcium chloride.

Following this, it is also preferred, if the cosmetic composition according to the third preferred embodiment of the invention additionally contains at least one additional calcium containing salt in the range from 0.005%to 1%by weight, more preferably from 0.07%to 0.25%by weight and most preferably from 0.08 to 0.2%by weight, calculated to the total weight of the composition.

It is also preferred if the cosmetic compositions according to the third preferred embodiment of the invention additionally contain at least calcium chloride in the range from 0.005%to 1%by weight, more preferably from 0.07%to 0.25%by weight and most preferably from 0.08 to 0.2%by weight, calculated to the total weight of the composition.

Furthermore, it is preferred according to the invention, if the cosmetic composition according to the third preferred embodiment of the invention contains at least one amphoteric surfactant, which is preferably cocamidopropyl betaine.

The total quantity of the amphoteric surfactant in the cosmetic composition of the third embodiment of the invention, is preferably in the range from 0.01%to 5%by weight, more preferably from 0.3%to 2%by weight and most preferably from 0.4%by weight to 1%by weight, calculated to the total weight of the composition.

Furthermore, it is preferred, if the total quantity of cocamidopropyl betaine in the cosmetic composition of the third embodiment of the invention, is preferably in the range from 0.01%to 5%by weight, more preferably from 0.3%to 2%by weight and most preferably from 0.4%by weight to 1%by weight, calculated to the total weight of the composition.

The example formulation Ex. 4 is a composition which is according to the third preferred embodiment of the invention.

According to the invention it is preferred if the ingredients contained in the cosmetic composition are mixed and heated up to a temperature of at least 50℃, more preferably at least 55℃ and most preferably at least 60℃. When filled in the final packaging it is also preferred if the composition has a temperature of at least 50℃, more preferably at least 55℃ and most preferably at least 60℃. Furthermore, after filling the composition into the final packaging, it is preferred if the composition is left under normal conditions until it reaches the ambient temperature. A faster cooling of the composition is generally not desirably, as it may adversely affect the formation of the flakes. After the cooling it usually takes 6 to 72 hours until the flakes are formed. The growth of the flakes is usually finished after 72 hours.

It was also noticed that the flakes formed in the first embodiment of the invention melt when being stored at a temperature of 40℃ to 50℃, however, afterwards the flakes surprisingly fully recover when being left under normal conditions. In further stability test, the composition according to the first embodiment was exposed to a freeze thaw cycle. Here, minor adverse changes were noticed in the structure of the flakes after 3 cycles adjusting the temperature from -10℃ to 40℃.

In regard to the second embodiment of the invention it was surprisingly found that the flakes were fully stable even at a temperature between 40℃ and 50℃. The flakes did not melt or disappear at these temperatures. Furthermore, the flakes did not change their structure when exposed to the freeze and thaw cycle as described above.

Generally, the cosmetic compositions according to the invention have due to the presence of the polysaccharide, in particular gellan gum, a gel like texture. When applied to the skin, the flakes feel surprisingly soft and gentle on the skin. When being spread over the skin the flakes start to dissolve.

Furthermore, the cosmetic composition according to the invention is preferably contained in a packaging having at least on one part of the packaging a transmission at 532 nm of at least 50%, preferably 75%, such that the composition can be spotted by the consumer. Furthermore, the packaging is preferably a plastic tube or a dispenser, whereby the dispenser is more preferred. Airless dispenser have been found as most preferred type of dispenser, as the structure of the flakes in the packaging is due to the pumping mechanism not adversely effected. Even in the case that the most of the composition has been removed from the airless dispenser, the structure of the flakes in the dispenser remains unaffected. Airless dispenser can commercially obtained from a number of various suppliers. One example of such a dispenser is the Aptar Micro Round 50 mi, which can be obtained from the Fa.Aptargroup, Germany.

Brief Description of the Figures

Figure 1shows a picture of the flakes found in the formulations Ex. 1 and Ex. 3.

Figure 2 shows further pictures of the formulations Ex. 4 and Com. 1.

Examples

The following examples should illustrate the present invention, without intending to limit the invention to these examples. The numerical values in the examples are percentages by weight, based on the total weight of the preparations.

Table 1:

The formulations listed in table 1 were prepared in the following manner:

All listed ingredients in phase B were heated to a temperature of 80℃ while mixing. Then, phase A was added to phase B while mixing. Afterwards, the mixture was cooled under normal conditions and phase C was added at 65℃. At 60℃ the mixture was filled in a suitable dispenser and left under normal conditions until the composition reached ambient temperature. The flakes were formed after 2 hours to 72 hours.

The formulations Ex. 1 to Ex. 4 are examples which are according to the invention, while the formulation Com. 1 is a comparison example, which is not according to the invention. The formulation Ex. 1 corresponds to the first preferred embodiment of the invention, while the formulations Ex. 2 and Ex. 3 are according to the second preferred embodiment of the invention. The formulation Ex. 4 is according to the third preferred embodiment.

The formulation Ex. 1 contained snowflake-like flakes, while the formulations Ex. 2 and Ex. 3 showed cloud-like, irregular shape flakes. The formulation Ex. 4 included very small dot like flakes, which have a size of less than 0.3 mm. The formulation Com. 1 did not contain any flakes.

Figure 1 shows a picture of the flakes found in the formulations Ex. 1 and Ex. 3. Figure 2 shows further pictures of the formulations Ex. 4 and Com. 1. The distance between the lines on the scale is 1 mm.

Further examples:

INCI	Ex. 11	Ex. 12	Ex. 13	Ex. 14
Sodium CocoylGlycinate	2.5	2.5	2.5	2.5
Gellan Gum ¹	0.1	0.1	0.1	0.2
Carrageenan	0.5	0.5	0.5	0.4
Pectin				0.2
Glycerin	10	20	30	5
Cl 42090	0.0001	0.0001	0.0001	0.0001
Phenoxyethanol	0.7	0.7	0.7	0.7
Aqua	ad 100	ad 100	ad 100	ad 100

Claims

A cosmetic composition comprising

a) at least one polysaccharide selected from the group of gellan gum, carrageenan and pectin, and

b) at least one amino acid surfactant according to formula (I) ,

wherein R is an alkyl chain containing 10 to 20 carbon atoms, X is either hydrogen or a methyl group and M ⁺ is an alkali metal ion or an ammonium ion.
A cosmetic composition according to claim 1 characterized in that the polysaccharides selected from the group of gellan gum, carrageenan and pectin are contained in the cosmetic composition in a total quantity from 0.01%to 5%by weight, preferably from 0.02%to 2%by weight and more preferably from 0.3%to 1%by weight, calculated to the total weight of the composition.
A cosmetic composition according to claim 1 or claim 2 characterized in that the composition contains gellan gum and/or carrageenan.
A cosmetic composition according to any of the proceeding claims characterized in that the gellan gum has a structure according to formula (III)

wherein n stands for an integer number in the range from 2 to 2000, preferably 200 to 450.
A cosmetic composition according to any of the proceeding claims characterized in that the total quantity of gellan gum, in particular the total quantity of the gellan gum according to formula (III) , is in the range from 0.015%to 4%by weight, preferably from 0.02%to 1%by weight and more preferably 0.1%by weight to 0.3%by weight, calculated to the total weight of the composition.
A cosmetic composition according to any of the proceeding claims characterized in that the total quantity of carrageenan is in the range from 0.015%to 4%by weight, preferably 0.05%to 2%by weight and more preferably 0.1%to 1%by weight, calculated to the total weight of the composition.
A cosmetic composition according to any of the proceeding claims characterized in that the amino acid surfactant according to formula (I) is selected from the group of sodium cocoylalainate, sodium lauroylglycinate and sodium cocoylglycinate, whereby sodium cocoylglycinate is preferred.
A cosmetic composition according to any of the proceeding claims characterized in that the total quantity of the amino acid surfactant according to formula (I) is in the range from 0.5 to 20%by weight, preferably from 1%to 15%by weight, more preferably from 1.5%to 10%by weight and most preferably from 2%to 7%by weight, calculated to the total weight of the composition.
A cosmetic composition according to any of the proceeding claims characterized in that total quantity of further amino acid surfactants is less than 2%by weight, more preferably less than 1%by weight, still more preferably less than 0.5%by weight, still more preferably less than 0.2%by weight and most preferably 0%by weight, calculated to the total weight of the composition.
A cosmetic composition according to any of the proceeding claims characterized in that the composition does not contain an additional polyvalent metal ion, in particular an additional bivalent metal ion.
A cosmetic composition according to any of the proceeding claims characterized in that the cosmetic composition does not contain an amphoteric surfactant.
A cosmetic composition according to any of claims 1 to 9 characterized in that the cosmetic composition additionally contains at least one additional polyvalent metal ion, preferably an additional bivalent metal ion which is preferably Ca ²⁺.
A cosmetic composition according to claim 12 characterized in that the composition contains at least one additional polyvalent metal ion containing salt and the total quantity of the salt is in the range from 0.005%to 1%by weight, preferably 0.07%to 0.25%by weight and more preferably 0.08 to 0.2%by weight, calculated to the total weight of the composition.
A cosmetic composition according to claim 12 or 13 characterized in that the composition contains additionally calcium chloride.
A cosmetic composition according to any of claims 12 to 14 characterized in that the composition contains at least one amphoteric surfactant, which is preferably cocamidopropyl betaine.
A cosmetic composition according to claim 15 characterized in that the total quantity of the amphoteric surfactant is in the range from 0.01%to 5%by weight, preferably from 0.5%to 4%by weight and more preferably from 1%to 3%by weight, calculated to the total weight of the composition.
A cosmetic composition according to any of the claims 1 to 9 characterized in that the composition contains sodium cocoylalaninate as amino acid surfactant according to formula (I) .
A cosmetic composition according to claim 17 characterized in that the composition does not contain another amino acid surfactant according to formula (I) .
A cosmetic composition according to claim 17 or 18 characterized in that the composition contains at least one additional polyvalent metal ion containing salt and the total quantity of the salt is in the range from 0.005%to 1%by weight, preferably from 0.07%to 0.25%by weight and more preferably from 0.08 to 0.2%by weight, calculated to the total weight of the composition.
A cosmetic composition according to claim 19 characterized in that the additional polyvalent metal ion containing salt is calcium chloride.
A cosmetic composition according to any of the claims 17 to 20 characterized in that the composition contains at least one amphoteric surfactant, which is preferably cocamidopropyl betaine.
A cosmetic composition according to claim 21 characterized in that the total quantity of the amphoteric surfactant in the composition is in the range from 0.01%to 5%by weight, preferably from 0.3%to 2%by weight and more preferably 0.4%by weight to 1%by weight, calculated to the total weight of the composition.
The use of

a) at least one polysaccharide selected from the group of gellan gum, carrageenan and pectin, and

b) at least one amino acid surfactant according to formula (I)

wherein R is an alkyl chain containing 10 to 20 carbon atoms, X is either hydrogen or a methyl group and M ⁺ is an alkali metal ion or an ammonium ion,

to form flakes in a cosmetic composition.