WO2020021448A1 - Skin cleansing composition containing visible oil droplets - Google Patents

Skin cleansing composition containing visible oil droplets Download PDF

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Publication number
WO2020021448A1
WO2020021448A1 PCT/IB2019/056279 IB2019056279W WO2020021448A1 WO 2020021448 A1 WO2020021448 A1 WO 2020021448A1 IB 2019056279 W IB2019056279 W IB 2019056279W WO 2020021448 A1 WO2020021448 A1 WO 2020021448A1
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WO
WIPO (PCT)
Prior art keywords
oil
skin cleansing
cleansing composition
composition
skin
Prior art date
Application number
PCT/IB2019/056279
Other languages
French (fr)
Inventor
Satyanarayana SHARMA
Koushik SREEDHAR
Original Assignee
Beiersdorf Ag
Priority date (The priority date is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the date listed.)
Filing date
Publication date
Application filed by Beiersdorf Ag filed Critical Beiersdorf Ag
Publication of WO2020021448A1 publication Critical patent/WO2020021448A1/en

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Classifications

    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/02Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by special physical form
    • A61K8/04Dispersions; Emulsions
    • A61K8/06Emulsions
    • A61K8/062Oil-in-water emulsions
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/81Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions involving only carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds
    • A61K8/8141Compositions of homopolymers or copolymers of compounds having one or more unsaturated aliphatic radicals, each having only one carbon-to-carbon double bond, and at least one being terminated by only one carboxyl radical, or of salts, anhydrides, esters, amides, imides or nitriles thereof; Compositions of derivatives of such polymers
    • A61K8/8152Homopolymers or copolymers of esters, e.g. (meth)acrylic acid esters; Compositions of derivatives of such polymers
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61QSPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q1/00Make-up preparations; Body powders; Preparations for removing make-up
    • A61Q1/14Preparations for removing make-up
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61QSPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q19/00Preparations for care of the skin
    • A61Q19/005Preparations for sensitive skin
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K2800/00Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
    • A61K2800/20Chemical, physico-chemical or functional or structural properties of the composition as a whole
    • A61K2800/26Optical properties
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K2800/00Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
    • A61K2800/40Chemical, physico-chemical or functional or structural properties of particular ingredients
    • A61K2800/48Thickener, Thickening system
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K2800/00Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
    • A61K2800/40Chemical, physico-chemical or functional or structural properties of particular ingredients
    • A61K2800/54Polymers characterized by specific structures/properties
    • A61K2800/548Associative polymers

Definitions

  • the present invention relates to a skin cleansing composition, especially a face cleansing composition, in particular suitable as a make-up remover.
  • the composition has an appealing biphasic appearance with an oil phase dispersed in the aqueous phase.
  • the skin cleansing composition of the present invention comprises an oil agent, an anionic Methacrylate Copolymer, a neutralizing agent and auxiliary agents.
  • make-up is used to improve the outward appearance, in particular the appearance of the face.
  • make-up was used in ancient times. In Egypt, at the times when the pharaohs were governing the country, the use of make-up for the eyes, lips and cheeks was common. Women and men used it to protect the skin against the sun, but also for beautification.
  • make-up is merely used to improve in particular the outward appearance of the face.
  • make-up removers The skin of the face is a relatively sensitive skin, therefore it is recommended to use mild cleansing compositions not causing irritations.
  • Prior art discloses face cleansing compositions suitable to remove make up. Different types of compositions are described and either product is respectively in the market.
  • the compositions may be in form of emulsions, creamy, milky or liquid ones, gels and oily compositions, sometimes with two distinct phases, which are mixed upon shaking.
  • IP 2016074637 A discloses compositions for removing make-up, which do not include a thickener, but instead di-oleic acid poly glyceryl- 10, which imparts the viscosity, one or two compounds selected from the group 12-hydroxystearic acid (tetramer) pentaerythritol, 12-hydroxystearic acid (hexamer) pentaerythritol, pentaisostearic acid dipentaerythritol, and tri-polyhydroxystearic acid dipen taerythrilol, and liquid oils.
  • EP 0371333 Bl describes a liquid eye make-up remover containing at least one surface-active substance, selected from specific ethoxylated fatty alcohols, oils, solubilizers, and polyoxyethylene/polyoxypropylene block copolymers; said composition not being an emulsion or a dispersion.
  • WO 2016146360 A1 discloses oil based cleansing product, containing two distinct phases, an oil phase and a water phase, which are mixed shortly before use.
  • WO 2017005485 A1 describes a composition intended to be used to soak wipes.
  • Said composition contains a specific anionic surfactant, selected from the group of amino acid surfactants, a specific nonionic surfactant, namely an alkyl glucoside, find a block copolymer.
  • WO 2014098268 A1 discloses microemulsions, containing lower oil content, but still in the range of 25 to 30% by weight, as the examples denote specific nonionic surfactants, associative polyurethanes and polyols are further comprised.
  • WO 2014/098266 A1 also discloses microemulsions with lower oil content but still in the range of 25 to 30% by weight, as the examples denote, a mixture of specific surfactants and polyols.
  • compositions containing different associative polymers but at the same time relatively high amounts of oil, at least 50 % by weight, or no oils at all.
  • US 2015/0328127 A1 describes compositions for face cleansing and eye make-up removal used in combination with a wipe or as a rinse-off composition. Said compositions contain two different polymers, one of which may be an associative polymer, an oily agent and a nonionic surfactant.
  • aqueous make -up-removing compositions comprise surfactants and are devoid of oils but the cleansing effectiveness of said compositions with regard to long-lasting make-up is limited and often inadequate and these products may lead to dry skin by removing the natural oil film of the skin. Such products may not be suited for the people with sensitive skin.
  • compositions intended for face cleansing in particular make-up removal.
  • new products which are at least equally as good in cleansing performance as the compositions/products of prior art and have a pleasant appearance.
  • the visual impression of a product is an important feature to influence the consumer to buy a product.
  • the unique appearance of a product helps to draw the attention of the consumer to the product and helps that the consumer recognizes the product and buys it again.
  • the product should be effective in removing make-up while being gentle, pleasant to use and not causing any irritation and thus suitable for use of people having a sensitive skin.
  • a skin cleansing composition comprising visually distinct biphasic composition containing an aqueous phase and an oil phase dispersed in the aqueous phase, wherein the skin cleansing composition, comprises - an oil agent in an amount from 0.1 to 3.0% (w/w) selected from group comprising hydrocarbon oils, natural oils, synthetic oils, silicone oils and fatty acids;
  • preservative and co-preservative in amount from 0.05 to 2%
  • a skin cleansing composition wherein mass ratio of aqueous phase to the oil phase is in range from 9:1 to 999:1, preferably from 33: 1 to 99:1.
  • the viscosity of said skin cleansing composition is in range from 800 to 2000 cps, preferable from 1300 to 1700 cps at 25°C.
  • the skin cleansing composition comprises the oil agent in a range from 0.2 to 0.8% (w/w), more preferably from 0.4 to 0.6% (w/w).
  • the hydrocarbon oil is selected from the group comprising of liquid isoparaffins, squalane, liquid paraffin’s, and preferably liquid paraffin’s.
  • the natural oil is triglyceride of animal origin or plant origin.
  • the triglyceride of plant origin is selected from the group comprising of coconut oil, (sweet) almond oil ( Prunes Amygdales (Dulcets)), walnut oil, peach kernel oil, apricot kernel oil, avocado oil ( Persia Gratissima), tea tree oil, soybean oil, sesame oil, sunflower oil ( Helianthus Annuus), tsubaki oil, evening primrose oil, rice bran oil, palm kernel oil, mango kernel oil, cuckoo flower oil, thistle oil, macadamia nut oil, grape seed oil (Vitis vinifera), amaranth seed oil, argan oil, bamboo oil, olive oil ( Olea Europaea), wheat germ oil, pumpkin seed oil, mallow oil, hazelnut oil, safflower oil, canola oil, sasanqua oil, and jojoba oil.
  • the synthetic oil is liquid polyisobutene of molecular weight in range from 300 to 3,000 (g/mol).
  • the silicone oil is selected from dimethicones and cyclomethicones.
  • the fatty acid is selected from oleic acid, isostearic acid and mixture thereof.
  • the skin cleansing composition comprises anionic Methacrylate Copolymer is Acrylates/Beheneth-25 Methacrylate copolymer in a range from 0.3 to 0.6% (w/w).
  • the neutralizing agent facilitates in neutralization of anionic methacrylate copolymer for formation of gel network.
  • the neutralizing agent is selected from the group comprising of 2-amino-2-methyl-l -propanol (AMP), 2-amino-2-methyl-l, 3-propandiol (AMPD), mono-isopropanolamine, tri-isopropananolamine, inorganic bases sodium hydroxide and potassium hydroxide, and preferably sodium hydroxide.
  • the skin cleansing composition comprises the moisturizing agent glycerin, propylene glycol, butylene glycol and preferably glycerin in a range from 2 to 5% (w/w).
  • the skin cleansing composition comprises colorant which is oil soluble or aqueous phase soluble in a range from 0.0005 to 0.001 % (w/w).
  • the oil soluble colorant is selected from the group comprising of CI42090, 061570, 016035, Cl 10316 and mixture thereof.
  • the skin cleansing composition comprises preservative and co-preservative in range from 0.1 to 1 % (w/w).
  • the preservative is selected from the group comprising of phenoxyethanol, benzethonium chloride, benzalkonium chloride and mixture thereof, preferably phenoxyethanol.
  • the co preservative is selected from the group comprising of ethylhexyl glycerine 1 , 6-hexandiol and mixture thereof.
  • the skin cleansing composition comprises the water in a range from 91 to 93% (w/w).
  • the skin cleansing composition has pFl in a range from 6.5 to 7.5 and may further comprise additional compounds perfume, antioxidants, active ingredients, vitamins, extracts from plants and mixture thereof.
  • Figure 1(b) is a representation for evaluating the cleansing ability of the rheology modifier (polymer solution) of the skin cleansing composition.
  • Figure 2 is a representation of the diphasic skin cleansing composition with oil droplets dispersed in the liquid phase.
  • make-up compositions contain a great number of raw materials, which are of very different chemical nature.
  • the dyes, contained in make-up compositions are selected from inorganic pigments such as silicates (magnesium silicate (talc), aluminum silicate (kaolin)), and metal oxides (chrome, iron, manganese, titanium, and zinc oxides), and/or organic pigments.
  • Binding means may be esters of stearic acid, lanolin alcohol and lanolin acetate.
  • waxes such as for instance, beeswax or carnauba wax
  • oils such as for instance, paraffin oil, silicone oil or castor oil
  • preservatives, antioxidants, thickeners and other additives may be comprised.
  • non-polar substances for example waxes, oils and silicone oils and pigments of low solubility, for example talc or titanium oxide have to be solubilized. This holds true for foundations, lipsticks, eye shadows, eye pencils, and in particular for long-lasting and waterproof products, such as mascara.
  • a skin cleansing composition in particular a face cleansing and make-up removing composition, in form of a biphasic composition containing an aqueous phase and an oily phase dispersed in the aqueous phase, wherein the skin cleansing composition, comprises:
  • an oil agent in an amount from 0.1 to 3.0% (w/w) comprising hydrocarbon oils, natural oils, synthetic oils, silicone oils and fatty acids;
  • preservative and co-preservative in amount from 0.05 to 2% (w/w);
  • the range of the weight ratio of the water phase to the oil phase is from 9:1 to 999:1 , preferably from 33:1 to 99:1.
  • the values are indicating that the water phase is present in much greater amounts than the oil phase; therefore the composition of the present invention is an aqueous- based one.
  • the composition of the invention contains 90 % to 97 % by weight, preferably 91 to 93 % by weight water, in relation to the total weight of the composition.
  • the composition of the present invention is a viscous liquid and keeps the delicate balance between a composition being too viscous, having a gel like form and a composition being non-viscous with a probable oil phase separation.
  • a means to determine, if the composition is a viscous liquid without phase separation, is the measurement of the viscosity. There is only a relatively small range of viscosity values being associated with a viscous liquid without phase separation. Viscosity values of 800 to 2000 cps, preferably 1300 to 1700 cps, are indicating the desired condition of the composition, namely a viscous liquid. The viscosity was determined using a Rheomat R123, Bob No. 1 spindle. The measurements were performed at 25°C.
  • Acrylates/Beheneth-25 Methacrylate Copolymer is used.
  • This polymer is mainly synthesized from the monomers acrylic acid, acrylate esters and a beheneth-20 methacrylate ester.
  • the beheneth- 20 methacrylate ester contributes the hydrophobic side chains, which result in the associative properties of this polymer.
  • the polymer used forms a three-dimensional network when neutralized with a suitable base.
  • the network helps to suspend and stabilize oil droplets and/or beads in the flowable composition, which is of low viscosity (viscous liquid).
  • the hydrophobic groups of the associative polymer contribute to form micelles (polymeric micellisation), which imparts the cleansing ability to the composition by solubilizing lipophilic compounds, such as for instance, oils and hydrophobic dirt.
  • the solubilized lipophilic compounds may then be rinsed off by the washing liquid.
  • the cleansing ability of the present composition is further improved by the oil droplets that solubilize lipophilic substances, too.
  • the Acrylates/Beheneth-25 Methacrylate Copolymer is available in form of an emulsion, more preferably in an emulsion containing 1 to 5 % by weight sodium laureth sulfate.
  • Sodium laureth sulfate is present as an emulsifier and therefore present in raw materials. Further, the presence of sodium laureth sulfate helps to solubilize the polymer and incorporate it in cosmetic compositions.
  • the Acrylates/Beheneth-25 Methacrylate Copolymer being an anionic copolymer the charge density determined by calculation (theoretical charge density) is about 30 mole%.
  • the copolymer according to the invention namely Acrylates/Beheneth-25 Methacrylate Copolymer, is an anionic polymer, neutralization is recommended to achieve the gel network.
  • the neutralizing agent is selected from the group 2- Amino-2-methyl- 1 -propanol (AMP), 2- Amino-2 - Methyl-l , 3-propandiol (AMPD), Mono Isopropanolamine, Tri-Isopropanolamine, and/or inorganic bases, such as sodium hydroxide and potassium hydroxide, preferably sodium hydroxide.
  • AMP 2- Amino-2-methyl- 1 -propanol
  • AMPD 2- Amino-2 - Methyl-l
  • AMPD 3-propandiol
  • Mono Isopropanolamine Tri-Isopropanolamine
  • inorganic bases such as sodium hydroxide and potassium hydroxide, preferably sodium hydroxide.
  • Acrylates/Beheneth-25 Methacrylate Copolymer may be purchased from Croda as Volarest FL.
  • Acrylates/Beheneth-25 Methacrylate Copolymer is contained in a total amount of 0.3 to 1.0 % by weight, preferably 0.3 to 0.6 % by weight, in relation to the total weight of the composition. The amounts are referring to the active content of the copolymer.
  • composition according to the present invention contains at least oil.
  • Oils are liquid at room temperature, in the sense of the present invention.
  • the group of oils comprises hydrocarbon oils, natural oils (triglycerides), silicone oils, further synthetic oils, fatty acids and others more.
  • Liquid hydrocarbons may be liquid isoparaffins, squalane, and liquid paraffins. It is preferred, if liquid paraffins are contained.
  • Natural oils are triglycerides which are of animal or plant origin. However it is preferred if triglycerides of plant origin are contained.
  • one or more triglyceride of plant origin is chosen from coconut oil, (sweet) almond oil ( Prunus Amygdalus (Dulcis), walnut oil, peach kernel oil, apricot kernel oil, avocado oil ( Persea Gratissima), tea tree oil, soybean oil, sesame oil, sunflower oil ( Helianthus Annuus), tsubaki oil, evening primrose oil, rice bran oil, palm kernel oil, mango kernel oil, cuckoo flower oil, thistle oil, macadamia nut oil, grape seed oil (Vitis vinifera), amaranth seed oil, argan oil, bamboo oil, olive oil ( Olea Europaea), wheat germ oil, pumpkin seed oil, mallow oil, hazelnut oil, safflower oil, canola oil, sasanqua oil, and jojoba oil.
  • coconut oil is chosen from coconut oil, (sweet) almond oil ( Prunus Amygdalus (Dulcis), walnut oil, peach kernel oil, apri
  • M corresponds to R 3 S1O 1/2 ,
  • D corresponds to R2S1O2 / 2
  • T corresponds to RS1O 3/2 and
  • Dimethicones may be characterized by viscosity values. Depending on the length of the molecule the respective viscosity increases.
  • the fatty acids may be selected from oleic acid and/or isostearic acid.
  • the at least one oil is selected from the group of hydrocarbon oils and/or silicone oils. It is even more preferred, if at least one hydrocarbon oil and at least one silicone oil are contained.
  • the skin cleansing composition may comprise at least synthetic oil.
  • the synthetic oil is a liquid polyisobutene, which is synthesized from isobutene monomers.
  • the molecular weight of the isobutene monomer is 56, 11 g/mol. It is preferred, if the at least one polyisobutene has a molecular weight of 3, 00 to 3,000 g/mol. Most preferred is a polyisobutene which is available from Evonik Nutrition and Care GmbH under the trade name Rewopal PB 1000.
  • At least an oil is contained in a total amount of 0.1 to 3.0% by weight, preferably 0.2 to 0.8% by weight, more preferably 0.4 to 0.6% by weight in relation to the total weight of the composition. In each case the values are referring to the total amount of one or more oils contained in the composition.
  • the composition of the present invention contains at least one colorant, which is soluble in the oils mentioned above.
  • Said oil- soluble colorants may be selected from Cl 60730, Cl 61565, Cl 45410, and Cl 47005.
  • One or more oil soluble colorants are contained in a total amount of 0.0001 to 0.1 % by weight, preferably 0.0005 to 0.001% by weight, in relation to the total weight of the composition.
  • the composition of the present invention contains at least one colorant, which is soluble in the aqueous phase.
  • Said colorants may be selected from Cl 42090, Cl 61570, Cl 16035, and Cl 10316.
  • the at least one colorant soluble in the aqueous phase is contained in a total amount of from 0.0001 to 0.1 % by weight, preferably 0.0005 to 0.001 % by weight, in relation to the total weight of the composition.
  • the composition of the present invention may contain one or more oil-soluble colorant(s) and one or more colorant(s) soluble in the aqueous phase.
  • the composition of the present invention contains one or more moisturizers, which may be selected from glycerine, propylene glycol and/or butylene glycol.
  • glycerine is contained.
  • the one or more moisturizers is/are contained in an amount from 1 to 10% by weight, preferably 2 to 5 % by weight, in relation to the total weight of the composition.
  • the composition of the present invention is an aqueous-based one.
  • aqueous-based compositions contain preservatives for ensuring anti-microbial stability.
  • the present composition is intended for the use as a face cleansing composition, especially for removing eye make-up, it is recommended to incorporate preservatives which are safe, effective, and at the same time are known not to show any irritative effect.
  • the preservatives are selected from the group of phenoxyethanol, benzethonium chloride and/or benzalkonium chloride. Additionally, further compounds may be present, which support or strengthen the effect of the preservatives.
  • said compounds are ethylhexyl glycerine and/or 1, 6-hexandiol.
  • One or more preservative(s) and optionally the compound(s) supporting or strengthening the effect of the preservatives is/are contained in a total amount of 0.05 to 2% by weight, preferably 0.1 to 1% by weight, in relation to the total weight of the composition.
  • the composition may contain additional compounds usually comprised in cosmetic compositions, for instance perfumes, antioxidants, active ingredients, vitamins and extracts from plants and others more with the proviso that these additional compounds do not counteract the present invention.
  • additional compounds usually comprised in cosmetic compositions, for instance perfumes, antioxidants, active ingredients, vitamins and extracts from plants and others more with the proviso that these additional compounds do not counteract the present invention.
  • composition according to the present invention may be prepared by any technique known or effective to prepare a cleansing composition of the kind of the present invention.
  • the process to prepare the composition of the present invention comprises conventional formulating and mixing techniques.
  • compositions of the present invention are tabulated in table 2.
  • the compositions of the present invention are preferably produced with the following procedure:
  • the water soluble components for instance the non-neutralized polymer suspension, moisturizer(s), preservative(s) for the water phase;
  • oil phase components for instance silicone oil(s), hydrocarbon oil(s) for the oil phase;
  • Tests were performed to show the cleansing effectiveness of the composition according to the invention.
  • a gradient was set up to evaluate the cleansing effectiveness. Lipstick in fixed amount out of the range from 0.03 to 0.1 g, was applied on a human forearm on an area of 3L*lB rectangle.
  • 1 g of the skin cleansing composition according to Example 1 was applied to a cotton pad, being plain and having no irregularities. The cotton pad was wiped 1,2 ,3 ,4 and 5 times over the lipstick applied on the forearm. A picture is taken and the amount of remaining lipstick was evaluated by comparison with the area of lipstick, which was untreated. The evaluation was expressed in % values as shown in Figure la.
  • Lipstick was applied on a human forearm in the same manner and the same amount as done for the setting up of the gradient for figure 1(a).
  • a polymer solution (corresponding to the water phase of Example 1 , without oil droplets) and water were compared.
  • the polymer solution as well as water, in each case 1 g was applied on a cotton pad.
  • the respective cotton pad, soaked with the polymer solution or water was wiped over the lipstick, applied on a human forearm, 3 times. Afterwards, the skin of the forearm was compared to the gradient of cleansing effectiveness. It became evident that the polymer solution resulted in a cleansing effectivity of more than 80 %; that means that nearly all the lipstick was removed.
  • a HET test is conducted to show the potential irritancy of compounds by observing changes, which occur in the chorioallantoic membrane of an egg after exposure to test chemicals. Chemicals are placed directly onto the chorioallantoic membrane of the hen's egg. The occurrence of vascular injury (haemorrhage) or coagulation in response to a compound is the basis for employing this technique as an indication of the potential of a chemical to damage mucous membranes (in particular the eye) in vivo.
  • the HET-CAM assay has been designed to assess the acute irritation potential of a test substance to mucous membranes by using fertilized and hatched hen's eggs.
  • the potential irritancy of chemicals and their dilutions can be detected by observing adverse changes, which occur in the chorioallantoic membrane of the egg after exposure to test chemicals.
  • Fertile White Leghorn chicken eggs are incubated at 37.5°C ( ⁇ 0.5°C) and relative humidity of 62.5 % ( ⁇ 7.5 %) for nine to ten days.
  • the egg shell is opened at the air cell pole and the inner membrane is removed carefully to free the chorioallantoic membrane (CAM).
  • a RBC assay was conducted to measure the cell membrane destroying and protein denaturating properties of the compositions of Example 1 by measuring the release of hemoglobin (hemolysis) and the spectral changes of hemoglobin (protein denaturation) from bovine erythrocytes.
  • hemolysis hemoglobin
  • spectral changes of hemoglobin protein denaturation
  • bovine erythrocytes In a first step defined aliquots of bovine erythrocytes are incubated by shaking for one hour at room temperature with increasing concentrations of test sample (1 , 10, 100, 1000, 10000, 100000 mg/l in PBS at pH 7.4). After centrifugation the spectral absorption of released hemoglobin is determined photometrically at 541 nm in the resulting supernatants (extracellular hemoglobin). The cells of the pellet are lysed with water and the spectral absorption of this solution (intracellular hemoglobin) is also determined at 541 nm.
  • the Di ow threshold concentration [mg/l] > 10% denaturation
  • the D mx maximum denaturation [%] are calculated from the change of total hemoglobin absorption (intra- and extracellular) in comparison to the total native hemoglobin (HbCh) of the 100% control.
  • a second step defined aliquots of bovine erythrocytes are incubated in the same way as before with a series of narrow concentrations chosen from the compositions from Example 1. After centrifugation the hemoglobin concentration of the resulting supernatants is determined photometrically on 541 nm and the relative hemolysis release is calculated. The H [mg/l], indicating the concentration at which 50 % of the hemoglobin is released, is determined from the concentration-response curve.
  • composition of the present invention and Gamier Skin Naturals Micellar Oil-Infused Cleansing Water samples are not irritative.
  • composition of the invention containing oil soluble colorants formulated in accordance with Example 1 has an interesting and appealing appearance with colored oil droplets distributed uniformly in isotropic aqueous phase as shown in Figure 2.
  • compositions of the invention are very satisfying products in relation to mildness. No irritations of the face skin, especially around the eye area were observed upon usage of the compositions according to the present invention. [00078] While particular embodiments of the present invention are illustrated and described, it would be obvious to those skilled in the art that various other changes and modifications can be made without departing from the spirit and scope of the invention. It is thereof intended to cover in the appended claims such changes and modifications that are within the scope of the invention.

Abstract

Skin cleansing composition, especially a face cleansing composition, and in particular make-up removal composition, which imparts excellent cleansing properties, non-irritating, and suitable for people having sensitive skin. The skin cleansing composition of the present invention has an appealing visually distinct biphasic composition containing an aqueous phase and an oil phase dispersed in the aqueous phase. The skin cleansing composition comprises an oil agent, an anionic Methacrylate Copolymer; a neutralizing agent; a moisturizing; a colorant; a preservative and co-preservative and water.

Description

FIELD OF THE INVENTION
[0001] The present invention relates to a skin cleansing composition, especially a face cleansing composition, in particular suitable as a make-up remover. The composition has an appealing biphasic appearance with an oil phase dispersed in the aqueous phase. The skin cleansing composition of the present invention comprises an oil agent, an anionic Methacrylate Copolymer, a neutralizing agent and auxiliary agents.
BACKGROUND OF THE INVENTION
[0002] Generally, make-up is used to improve the outward appearance, in particular the appearance of the face. Already in ancient times make-up was used. In Egypt, at the times when the pharaohs were governing the country, the use of make-up for the eyes, lips and cheeks was common. Women and men used it to protect the skin against the sun, but also for beautification. Nowadays, make-up is merely used to improve in particular the outward appearance of the face.
[0003] The applied make-up has to be removed. This may he achieved by face cleansers or products solely developed to remove make-up, so called make-up removers, including the special group of eye make-up removers. The skin of the face is a relatively sensitive skin, therefore it is recommended to use mild cleansing compositions not causing irritations.
[0004] Prior art discloses face cleansing compositions suitable to remove make up. Different types of compositions are described and either product is respectively in the market. The compositions may be in form of emulsions, creamy, milky or liquid ones, gels and oily compositions, sometimes with two distinct phases, which are mixed upon shaking.
[0005] IP 2016074637 A discloses compositions for removing make-up, which do not include a thickener, but instead di-oleic acid poly glyceryl- 10, which imparts the viscosity, one or two compounds selected from the group 12-hydroxystearic acid (tetramer) pentaerythritol, 12-hydroxystearic acid (hexamer) pentaerythritol, pentaisostearic acid dipentaerythritol, and tri-polyhydroxystearic acid dipen taerythrilol, and liquid oils.
[0006] EP 0371333 Bl describes a liquid eye make-up remover containing at least one surface-active substance, selected from specific ethoxylated fatty alcohols, oils, solubilizers, and polyoxyethylene/polyoxypropylene block copolymers; said composition not being an emulsion or a dispersion.
[0007] WO 2016146360 A1 discloses oil based cleansing product, containing two distinct phases, an oil phase and a water phase, which are mixed shortly before use.
[0008] WO 2017005485 A1 describes a composition intended to be used to soak wipes. Said composition contains a specific anionic surfactant, selected from the group of amino acid surfactants, a specific nonionic surfactant, namely an alkyl glucoside, find a block copolymer.
[0009] WO 2014098268 A1 discloses microemulsions, containing lower oil content, but still in the range of 25 to 30% by weight, as the examples denote specific nonionic surfactants, associative polyurethanes and polyols are further comprised.
[00010] WO 2014/098266 A1 also discloses microemulsions with lower oil content but still in the range of 25 to 30% by weight, as the examples denote, a mixture of specific surfactants and polyols.
[00011] US 2003/0157047 A1 describes a make-up removing composition containing an amphiphilic polymer and oil.
[00012] The uses of associative polymers in face cleansing and make-up removing composition has also been described in EP 1987808. It discloses compositions containing different associative polymers but at the same time relatively high amounts of oil, at least 50 % by weight, or no oils at all. [00013] US 2015/0328127 A1 describes compositions for face cleansing and eye make-up removal used in combination with a wipe or as a rinse-off composition. Said compositions contain two different polymers, one of which may be an associative polymer, an oily agent and a nonionic surfactant.
[00014] One group of currently available products comprises a large amount of oil, the presence of which results in a good make -up-removing effectiveness. However, these products may have the disadvantage of leaving an unpleasant greasy film on the skin. Another group, aqueous make -up-removing compositions comprise surfactants and are devoid of oils but the cleansing effectiveness of said compositions with regard to long-lasting make-up is limited and often inadequate and these products may lead to dry skin by removing the natural oil film of the skin. Such products may not be suited for the people with sensitive skin.
[00015] Hence, there is a great variety in compositions intended for face cleansing, in particular make-up removal. But there is still a need to develop new products, which are at least equally as good in cleansing performance as the compositions/products of prior art and have a pleasant appearance. The visual impression of a product is an important feature to influence the consumer to buy a product. The unique appearance of a product helps to draw the attention of the consumer to the product and helps that the consumer recognizes the product and buys it again. The product should be effective in removing make-up while being gentle, pleasant to use and not causing any irritation and thus suitable for use of people having a sensitive skin.
SUMMARY OF THE INVENTION
[00016] In accordance with this invention, there is provided a skin cleansing composition comprising visually distinct biphasic composition containing an aqueous phase and an oil phase dispersed in the aqueous phase, wherein the skin cleansing composition, comprises - an oil agent in an amount from 0.1 to 3.0% (w/w) selected from group comprising hydrocarbon oils, natural oils, synthetic oils, silicone oils and fatty acids;
- an anionic Methacrylate Copolymer in an amount from 0.3 to 1.0
% (w/w) and the active content of the copolymer;
- a neutralizing agent ;
- a moisturizing agent in an amount from 1 to 10% (w/w);
- a colorant in an amount from 0.0001 to 0.1% (w/w);
- a preservative and co-preservative in amount from 0.05 to 2%
(w/w); and
- water in an amount from 90 to 97 %( w/w).
[00017] In another embodiment of the invention there is provided a skin cleansing composition wherein mass ratio of aqueous phase to the oil phase is in range from 9:1 to 999:1, preferably from 33: 1 to 99:1. The viscosity of said skin cleansing composition is in range from 800 to 2000 cps, preferable from 1300 to 1700 cps at 25°C.
[00018] Further, the skin cleansing composition comprises the oil agent in a range from 0.2 to 0.8% (w/w), more preferably from 0.4 to 0.6% (w/w). The hydrocarbon oil is selected from the group comprising of liquid isoparaffins, squalane, liquid paraffin’s, and preferably liquid paraffin’s. The natural oil is triglyceride of animal origin or plant origin. The triglyceride of plant origin is selected from the group comprising of coconut oil, (sweet) almond oil ( Prunes Amygdales (Dulcets)), walnut oil, peach kernel oil, apricot kernel oil, avocado oil ( Persia Gratissima), tea tree oil, soybean oil, sesame oil, sunflower oil ( Helianthus Annuus), tsubaki oil, evening primrose oil, rice bran oil, palm kernel oil, mango kernel oil, cuckoo flower oil, thistle oil, macadamia nut oil, grape seed oil (Vitis vinifera), amaranth seed oil, argan oil, bamboo oil, olive oil ( Olea Europaea), wheat germ oil, pumpkin seed oil, mallow oil, hazelnut oil, safflower oil, canola oil, sasanqua oil, and jojoba oil. The synthetic oil is liquid polyisobutene of molecular weight in range from 300 to 3,000 (g/mol). The silicone oil is selected from dimethicones and cyclomethicones. The fatty acid is selected from oleic acid, isostearic acid and mixture thereof.
[00019] Further, the skin cleansing composition comprises anionic Methacrylate Copolymer is Acrylates/Beheneth-25 Methacrylate copolymer in a range from 0.3 to 0.6% (w/w). Furthermore, the neutralizing agent facilitates in neutralization of anionic methacrylate copolymer for formation of gel network. The neutralizing agent is selected from the group comprising of 2-amino-2-methyl-l -propanol (AMP), 2-amino-2-methyl-l, 3-propandiol (AMPD), mono-isopropanolamine, tri-isopropananolamine, inorganic bases sodium hydroxide and potassium hydroxide, and preferably sodium hydroxide.
[00020] Furthermore, the skin cleansing composition comprises the moisturizing agent glycerin, propylene glycol, butylene glycol and preferably glycerin in a range from 2 to 5% (w/w).
[00021] Furthermore, the skin cleansing composition comprises colorant which is oil soluble or aqueous phase soluble in a range from 0.0005 to 0.001 % (w/w). The oil soluble colorant is selected from the group comprising of CI42090, 061570, 016035, Cl 10316 and mixture thereof.
[00022] Furthermore, the skin cleansing composition comprises preservative and co-preservative in range from 0.1 to 1 % (w/w). The preservative is selected from the group comprising of phenoxyethanol, benzethonium chloride, benzalkonium chloride and mixture thereof, preferably phenoxyethanol. The co preservative is selected from the group comprising of ethylhexyl glycerine 1 , 6-hexandiol and mixture thereof.
[00023] Furthermore, the skin cleansing composition comprises the water in a range from 91 to 93% (w/w).
[00024] Furthermore, the skin cleansing composition has pFl in a range from 6.5 to 7.5 and may further comprise additional compounds perfume, antioxidants, active ingredients, vitamins, extracts from plants and mixture thereof.
[00025] Moreover, the method for cleansing face and removing make-up wherein said composition is applied to skin having make up thereon to remove cosmetic composition.
BRIEF DESCRIPTION OF THE DRAWINGS
[00026] FIGURE 1 (a): is a representation for evaluating the cleansing ability of the skin cleansing composition.
[00027] Figure 1(b): is a representation for evaluating the cleansing ability of the rheology modifier (polymer solution) of the skin cleansing composition.
[00028] Figure 2 : is a representation of the diphasic skin cleansing composition with oil droplets dispersed in the liquid phase.
DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION
[00029] Discussed below are some representative embodiments of the current invention. The invention in its broader aspects is not limited to the specific details and representative methods. The illustrative examples are described in this section in connection with the embodiments and methods provided. The invention according to its various aspects is particularly pointed out and distinctly claimed in the attached claims read in view of this specification, and appropriate equivalents.
[00030] It is to be noted, as used in the specification and the appended claims, the singular forms“a”,“an”, and“the” include plural referents unless the context clearly dictates otherwise. Thus, for example, reference to a composition containing“a compound” includes a mixture of two or more compounds. It should also be noted that the term“or” is generally employed in its sense including “and/or” unless the content clearly dictates otherwise. The expression of various quantities in terms of “%w/w” means the percentage by weight, relative to the weight of the total composition unless otherwise specified.
[00031] The expression of quantity in terms of "% w/w" or“%” means the percentage by weight, relative to the weight of the total solution or composition, unless otherwise specified.
[00032] Make-up compositions contain a great number of raw materials, which are of very different chemical nature. The dyes, contained in make-up compositions, are selected from inorganic pigments such as silicates (magnesium silicate (talc), aluminum silicate (kaolin)), and metal oxides (chrome, iron, manganese, titanium, and zinc oxides), and/or organic pigments. Binding means may be esters of stearic acid, lanolin alcohol and lanolin acetate. Furthermore, waxes, such as for instance, beeswax or carnauba wax, and oils, such as for instance, paraffin oil, silicone oil or castor oil, may be contained. Additionally, preservatives, antioxidants, thickeners and other additives may be comprised.
[00033] To achieve a proper face cleansing, these different compounds have to be removed from the skin. At the same time all the different substances, such as non-polar substances, for example waxes, oils and silicone oils and pigments of low solubility, for example talc or titanium oxide have to be solubilized. This holds true for foundations, lipsticks, eye shadows, eye pencils, and in particular for long-lasting and waterproof products, such as mascara.
[00034] The aforementioned problems are solved by a skin cleansing composition, in particular a face cleansing and make-up removing composition, in form of a biphasic composition containing an aqueous phase and an oily phase dispersed in the aqueous phase, wherein the skin cleansing composition, comprises:
- an oil agent in an amount from 0.1 to 3.0% (w/w) comprising hydrocarbon oils, natural oils, synthetic oils, silicone oils and fatty acids;
- an anionic Methacrylate Copolymer in an amount from 0.3 to 1.0 % (w/w) and the active content of the copolymer;
- a neutralizing agent;
- a moisturizing agent in an amount from 1 to 10% (w/w);
- a colorant in an amount from 0.0001 to 0.1 % (w/w);
- a preservative and co-preservative in amount from 0.05 to 2% (w/w);
and
- water in an amount from 90 to 97 % ( w/w).
[00035] In the meaning of the present invention oil phase and oily phase are used synonymously. Advantageously, the range of the weight ratio of the water phase to the oil phase is from 9:1 to 999:1 , preferably from 33:1 to 99:1. The values are indicating that the water phase is present in much greater amounts than the oil phase; therefore the composition of the present invention is an aqueous- based one. The composition of the invention contains 90 % to 97 % by weight, preferably 91 to 93 % by weight water, in relation to the total weight of the composition.
[00036] The composition of the present invention is a viscous liquid and keeps the delicate balance between a composition being too viscous, having a gel like form and a composition being non-viscous with a probable oil phase separation. A means to determine, if the composition is a viscous liquid without phase separation, is the measurement of the viscosity. There is only a relatively small range of viscosity values being associated with a viscous liquid without phase separation. Viscosity values of 800 to 2000 cps, preferably 1300 to 1700 cps, are indicating the desired condition of the composition, namely a viscous liquid. The viscosity was determined using a Rheomat R123, Bob No. 1 spindle. The measurements were performed at 25°C.
[00037] According to the invention, Acrylates/Beheneth-25 Methacrylate Copolymer is used. This polymer is mainly synthesized from the monomers acrylic acid, acrylate esters and a beheneth-20 methacrylate ester. The beheneth- 20 methacrylate ester contributes the hydrophobic side chains, which result in the associative properties of this polymer.
[00038] Without being bound to theory, it may be assumed that the polymer used forms a three-dimensional network when neutralized with a suitable base. The network helps to suspend and stabilize oil droplets and/or beads in the flowable composition, which is of low viscosity (viscous liquid). The hydrophobic groups of the associative polymer contribute to form micelles (polymeric micellisation), which imparts the cleansing ability to the composition by solubilizing lipophilic compounds, such as for instance, oils and hydrophobic dirt. The solubilized lipophilic compounds may then be rinsed off by the washing liquid. The cleansing ability of the present composition is further improved by the oil droplets that solubilize lipophilic substances, too.
[00039] Acrylates/Beheneth-25 Methacrylate Copolymer is supplied as a raw material; a solution containing only 30% of the polymer, the reference to active content is to the co-polymer and not the raw material.
[00040] It is preferred, if the Acrylates/Beheneth-25 Methacrylate Copolymer is available in form of an emulsion, more preferably in an emulsion containing 1 to 5 % by weight sodium laureth sulfate. Sodium laureth sulfate is present as an emulsifier and therefore present in raw materials. Further, the presence of sodium laureth sulfate helps to solubilize the polymer and incorporate it in cosmetic compositions.
[00041] The Acrylates/Beheneth-25 Methacrylate Copolymer being an anionic copolymer, the charge density determined by calculation (theoretical charge density) is about 30 mole%. As the copolymer according to the invention, namely Acrylates/Beheneth-25 Methacrylate Copolymer, is an anionic polymer, neutralization is recommended to achieve the gel network. The neutralizing agent is selected from the group 2- Amino-2-methyl- 1 -propanol (AMP), 2- Amino-2 - Methyl-l , 3-propandiol (AMPD), Mono Isopropanolamine, Tri-Isopropanolamine, and/or inorganic bases, such as sodium hydroxide and potassium hydroxide, preferably sodium hydroxide.
[00042] By the addition of a sufficient amount of neutralizing agent the polymer solution turns clear, usually at a pH-value of about 5.8. Advantageously, further neutralizing agent is added to the composition of the invention until a pH value is in the range of 6.5 to 7.5 is reached as illustrated in Table 3.
[00043] Acrylates/Beheneth-25 Methacrylate Copolymer may be purchased from Croda as Volarest FL. In the composition of the present invention Acrylates/Beheneth-25 Methacrylate Copolymer is contained in a total amount of 0.3 to 1.0 % by weight, preferably 0.3 to 0.6 % by weight, in relation to the total weight of the composition. The amounts are referring to the active content of the copolymer.
[00044] The composition according to the present invention contains at least oil. Oils are liquid at room temperature, in the sense of the present invention. Advantageously, the group of oils comprises hydrocarbon oils, natural oils (triglycerides), silicone oils, further synthetic oils, fatty acids and others more.
[00045] Liquid hydrocarbons may be liquid isoparaffins, squalane, and liquid paraffins. It is preferred, if liquid paraffins are contained. [00046] Natural oils are triglycerides which are of animal or plant origin. However it is preferred if triglycerides of plant origin are contained. More preferably one or more triglyceride of plant origin is chosen from coconut oil, (sweet) almond oil ( Prunus Amygdalus (Dulcis), walnut oil, peach kernel oil, apricot kernel oil, avocado oil ( Persea Gratissima), tea tree oil, soybean oil, sesame oil, sunflower oil ( Helianthus Annuus), tsubaki oil, evening primrose oil, rice bran oil, palm kernel oil, mango kernel oil, cuckoo flower oil, thistle oil, macadamia nut oil, grape seed oil (Vitis vinifera), amaranth seed oil, argan oil, bamboo oil, olive oil ( Olea Europaea), wheat germ oil, pumpkin seed oil, mallow oil, hazelnut oil, safflower oil, canola oil, sasanqua oil, and jojoba oil.
[00047] Silicone oils may be selected from dimethicones and cyclomethicones. It is preferred, if dimethicones are contained. Dimethicones are linear polysiloxane of the structure M-Dn-M. Siloxane units consist of silicium atoms bonded to oxygen atoms according to the formula RnSiO(4 n)/2, wherein R is a substituent selected from hydrogen, aliphatic or aromatic groups and n=0, 1, 2, 3. Starting from the meaning of“n” it is evident, that linear, cyclic, branched, or network structures may be formed. Depending on the number of substituents at the silicium atom different siloxane units can be described:
- M (mono), M corresponds to R3S1O1/2,
- D (di), D corresponds to R2S1O2/2,
- T (tri), T corresponds to RS1O3/2 and
- Q (quarto), Q corresponds to S1O4/2. Dimethicones may be characterized by viscosity values. Depending on the length of the molecule the respective viscosity increases.
[00048] The fatty acids may be selected from oleic acid and/or isostearic acid. [00049] In the present invention for the skin cleansing composition, it is preferred, if the at least one oil is selected from the group of hydrocarbon oils and/or silicone oils. It is even more preferred, if at least one hydrocarbon oil and at least one silicone oil are contained.
[00050] The skin cleansing composition may comprise at least synthetic oil. Advantageously, the synthetic oil is a liquid polyisobutene, which is synthesized from isobutene monomers. The molecular weight of the isobutene monomer is 56, 11 g/mol. It is preferred, if the at least one polyisobutene has a molecular weight of 3, 00 to 3,000 g/mol. Most preferred is a polyisobutene which is available from Evonik Nutrition and Care GmbH under the trade name Rewopal PB 1000.
[00051] In the present invention, at least an oil is contained in a total amount of 0.1 to 3.0% by weight, preferably 0.2 to 0.8% by weight, more preferably 0.4 to 0.6% by weight in relation to the total weight of the composition. In each case the values are referring to the total amount of one or more oils contained in the composition.
[00052] Advantageously, the composition of the present invention contains at least one colorant, which is soluble in the oils mentioned above. Said oil- soluble colorants may be selected from Cl 60730, Cl 61565, Cl 45410, and Cl 47005. One or more oil soluble colorants are contained in a total amount of 0.0001 to 0.1 % by weight, preferably 0.0005 to 0.001% by weight, in relation to the total weight of the composition.
[00053] In a further embodiment, the composition of the present invention contains at least one colorant, which is soluble in the aqueous phase. Said colorants may be selected from Cl 42090, Cl 61570, Cl 16035, and Cl 10316. The at least one colorant soluble in the aqueous phase is contained in a total amount of from 0.0001 to 0.1 % by weight, preferably 0.0005 to 0.001 % by weight, in relation to the total weight of the composition. [00054] In a further embodiment, the composition of the present invention may contain one or more oil-soluble colorant(s) and one or more colorant(s) soluble in the aqueous phase.
[00055] Advantageously, the composition of the present invention contains one or more moisturizers, which may be selected from glycerine, propylene glycol and/or butylene glycol. Preferably glycerine is contained. The one or more moisturizers is/are contained in an amount from 1 to 10% by weight, preferably 2 to 5 % by weight, in relation to the total weight of the composition.
[00056] The composition of the present invention is an aqueous-based one. Advantageously, aqueous-based compositions contain preservatives for ensuring anti-microbial stability. As the present composition is intended for the use as a face cleansing composition, especially for removing eye make-up, it is recommended to incorporate preservatives which are safe, effective, and at the same time are known not to show any irritative effect. Preferably, the preservatives are selected from the group of phenoxyethanol, benzethonium chloride and/or benzalkonium chloride. Additionally, further compounds may be present, which support or strengthen the effect of the preservatives. It is preferred, if said compounds are ethylhexyl glycerine and/or 1, 6-hexandiol. One or more preservative(s) and optionally the compound(s) supporting or strengthening the effect of the preservatives is/are contained in a total amount of 0.05 to 2% by weight, preferably 0.1 to 1% by weight, in relation to the total weight of the composition.
[00057] According to the invention the composition may contain additional compounds usually comprised in cosmetic compositions, for instance perfumes, antioxidants, active ingredients, vitamins and extracts from plants and others more with the proviso that these additional compounds do not counteract the present invention.
[00058] The composition according to the present invention may be prepared by any technique known or effective to prepare a cleansing composition of the kind of the present invention. The process to prepare the composition of the present invention comprises conventional formulating and mixing techniques.
Example 1
[00059] The compositions of the present invention are tabulated in table 2. The compositions of the present invention are preferably produced with the following procedure:
- weigh the water soluble components, for instance the non-neutralized polymer suspension, moisturizer(s), preservative(s) for the water phase;
- separately weigh the oil phase components, for instance silicone oil(s), hydrocarbon oil(s) for the oil phase;
- dissolve one or more oil-soluble colorant(s) in the oil phase;
- run the mixer (for instance IKA RW 20DS22 stirrer, using paddle type blades at 50-60 rpm) and slowly neutralize the water phase by adding a neutralizing agent until the water becomes transparent, preferably at a pH range of 6.2 to 6.5; and
- add the oil phase to water phase slowly and dropwise and allow the oil phase to disperse evenly in the aqueous phase.
Table 1: Active content of the raw components
Figure imgf000015_0001
Figure imgf000016_0001
Table 2: Biphasic compositions of the present invention
Figure imgf000016_0002
Figure imgf000017_0001
[00060] Tests were performed to show the cleansing effectiveness of the composition according to the invention. A gradient was set up to evaluate the cleansing effectiveness. Lipstick in fixed amount out of the range from 0.03 to 0.1 g, was applied on a human forearm on an area of 3L*lB rectangle. 1 g of the skin cleansing composition according to Example 1 was applied to a cotton pad, being plain and having no irregularities. The cotton pad was wiped 1,2 ,3 ,4 and 5 times over the lipstick applied on the forearm. A picture is taken and the amount of remaining lipstick was evaluated by comparison with the area of lipstick, which was untreated. The evaluation was expressed in % values as shown in Figure la.
[00061] Lipstick was applied on a human forearm in the same manner and the same amount as done for the setting up of the gradient for figure 1(a). A polymer solution (corresponding to the water phase of Example 1 , without oil droplets) and water were compared. The polymer solution as well as water, in each case 1 g was applied on a cotton pad. The respective cotton pad, soaked with the polymer solution or water was wiped over the lipstick, applied on a human forearm, 3 times. Afterwards, the skin of the forearm was compared to the gradient of cleansing effectiveness. It became evident that the polymer solution resulted in a cleansing effectivity of more than 80 %; that means that nearly all the lipstick was removed. Using the pad soaked with water, a cleansing effectivity of about 20 % was reached. A 100 % cleansing effectivity was reached with the cotton pad soaked with the polymer solution after 5 swipes as well as after 10 swipes. The cotton pad soaked with water could not remove the lipstick completely, even after 10 swipes the cleansing effectivity was still around 20 % as illustrated in Figure lb. [00062] The data show that the polymer solution containing
Acrylates/Beheneth-25 Methacrylate Copolymer has a cleansing effectivity, especially a cleansing effectivity in relation to removing make up. In addition, the oil droplets further contribute to the cleansing effect, especially of oil soluble make-up and dirt is removed. [00063] For proving the stability of the products according to the invention, a composition according to example 1 was prepared and stored under different temperature conditions. Appearance and phase separation were evaluated by the visual impression; additionally the pFl value and the viscosity were determined. The results are shown in the table 2 below. Table 3: Stability of the compositions of the present invention
Figure imgf000018_0001
Figure imgf000019_0001
Figure imgf000020_0001
okay = the appearance did not change separation = phase separation
* immediately after removal from the incubator the product was hazy, but after having room temperature the appearance of the sample was the same as at Day 0.
** A chamber where temperature is maintained at -lO°C for 12 hours and then the temperature switches automatically to 40°C for next 12 hours.
[00064] The results shown in the table 3 reveal that the analyzed composition is stable under various conditions, having a nearly constant viscosity and pH value. [00065] Furthermore, tests were performed to analyze the mildness of the products composition of the invention. The compositions are prepared according to the procedure of Example 1.
[00066] A HET test is conducted to show the potential irritancy of compounds by observing changes, which occur in the chorioallantoic membrane of an egg after exposure to test chemicals. Chemicals are placed directly onto the chorioallantoic membrane of the hen's egg. The occurrence of vascular injury (haemorrhage) or coagulation in response to a compound is the basis for employing this technique as an indication of the potential of a chemical to damage mucous membranes (in particular the eye) in vivo.
[00067] The HET-CAM assay has been designed to assess the acute irritation potential of a test substance to mucous membranes by using fertilized and hatched hen's eggs. The potential irritancy of chemicals and their dilutions can be detected by observing adverse changes, which occur in the chorioallantoic membrane of the egg after exposure to test chemicals. Fertile White Leghorn chicken eggs are incubated at 37.5°C (± 0.5°C) and relative humidity of 62.5 % (± 7.5 %) for nine to ten days. The egg shell is opened at the air cell pole and the inner membrane is removed carefully to free the chorioallantoic membrane (CAM). 300 pl of liquid or 100 mg of solid test sample are applied to the surface of the CAM and incubated for five minutes. During this time the membrane is examined for any damage and the time is recorded at which reactions appear. Furthermore the degree of severity for each reaction is assessed (no, slight, moderate or severe reaction). Most common reactions are haemorrhages (bleeding), vascular lysis (blood vessel disintegration) and coagulation (intra- and extra- vascular). The most important reactions are the coagulations, in particular the extra-vascular coagulation which resembles cornea opacity in the Draize test. Test samples are tested on three eggs per concentration, usually undiluted and at 10 % dissolved in 0.9 % sodium chloride solution or olive oil.
[00068] In comparison to the composition according to Example 1 a market product was analyzed, too. The market product was Gamier Skin Naturals Micellar Oil-Infused Cleansing Water, of which the complete product after being shaken, the water phase and the oil phase were tested. The results are summarized in the table 3 below:
Table 4: Test for irritancy of the compositions of the present invention
Figure imgf000022_0001
[00069] The results in Table 4 show, that the composition according to Example 1 does not reveal any potential irritancy.
[00070] Additionally a RBC assay was conducted to measure the cell membrane destroying and protein denaturating properties of the compositions of Example 1 by measuring the release of hemoglobin (hemolysis) and the spectral changes of hemoglobin (protein denaturation) from bovine erythrocytes. In a first step defined aliquots of bovine erythrocytes are incubated by shaking for one hour at room temperature with increasing concentrations of test sample (1 , 10, 100, 1000, 10000, 100000 mg/l in PBS at pH 7.4). After centrifugation the spectral absorption of released hemoglobin is determined photometrically at 541 nm in the resulting supernatants (extracellular hemoglobin). The cells of the pellet are lysed with water and the spectral absorption of this solution (intracellular hemoglobin) is also determined at 541 nm.
[00071] The Diow (threshold concentration [mg/l] > 10% denaturation) and the Dmx (maximum denaturation [%]) are calculated from the change of total hemoglobin absorption (intra- and extracellular) in comparison to the total native hemoglobin (HbCh) of the 100% control.
[00072] In a second step defined aliquots of bovine erythrocytes are incubated in the same way as before with a series of narrow concentrations chosen from the compositions from Example 1. After centrifugation the hemoglobin concentration of the resulting supernatants is determined photometrically on 541 nm and the relative hemolysis release is calculated. The H [mg/l], indicating the concentration at which 50 % of the hemoglobin is released, is determined from the concentration-response curve.
[00073] Based on the H value, different prediction models for surfactants and surfactant-based formulations for the prediction of the eye irritation potential corresponding to the MMAS score of the Draize Eye Irritation Test were defined. The most relevant for this test of a raw material would be the prediction model for surfactants (prediction model 2.1 , Pape et al., 1999). The results of the COLIPA validation study suggest that in general H values > 5,000 to 10,000 mg/l indicate that the test material is not or only minimally irritant to eyes.
[00074] Additional criteria to classify the eye irritation potential based on the protein denaturation were defined in the standard operating procedure. Accordingly, a maximal denaturation (Dmax ) > 50% accompanied by a denaturation threshold value (Diow) of < 10,000 mg/l a potential of severe eye irritation. The results of are summarized in the table 5 below:
Table 5: Results for Protein denaturation to measure Irritation for eye
Figure imgf000024_0001
[00075] The results reveal that composition of the present invention and Gamier Skin Naturals Micellar Oil-Infused Cleansing Water samples are not irritative.
[00076] The composition of the invention containing oil soluble colorants formulated in accordance with Example 1 has an interesting and appealing appearance with colored oil droplets distributed uniformly in isotropic aqueous phase as shown in Figure 2.
[00077] The compositions of the invention are very satisfying products in relation to mildness. No irritations of the face skin, especially around the eye area were observed upon usage of the compositions according to the present invention. [00078] While particular embodiments of the present invention are illustrated and described, it would be obvious to those skilled in the art that various other changes and modifications can be made without departing from the spirit and scope of the invention. It is thereof intended to cover in the appended claims such changes and modifications that are within the scope of the invention.

Claims

We claim:
1. A skin cleansing composition comprising visually distinct biphasic composition containing an aqueous phase and an oil phase dispersed in the aqueous phase, wherein the skin cleansing composition, comprises:
- an oil agent in an amount from 0.1 to 3.0% (w/w) selected from the group comprising hydrocarbon oils, natural oils, synthetic oils, silicone oils and fatty acids;
- an anionic Methacrylate Copolymer in an amount from 0.3 to 1.0 % (w/w) and the active content of the copolymer;
- a neutralizing agent ;
- a moisturizing agent in an amount from 1 to 10% (w/w);
- a colorant in an amount from 0.0001 to 0.1% (w/w);
- a preservative and co-preservative in amount from 0.05 to
2% (w/w); and
- water in an amount from 90 to 97 %( w/w).
2. The skin cleansing composition as claimed in claim 1 , wherein mass ratio of aqueous phase to the oil phase is in range from 9:1 to 999:1.
3. The skin cleansing composition as claimed in claim 2, wherein mass ratio of aqueous phase to the oil phase is in range from 33:1 to 99:1.
4. The skin cleansing composition as claimed in claim 1 , wherein viscosity of said skin cleansing agent is in range from 800 to 2000 cps at 25 °C.
5. The skin cleansing composition as claimed in claim 4, wherein viscosity of said skin cleansing agent is in range from 1300 to 1700 cps at 25 °C.
6. The skin cleansing composition as claimed in claim 1 , wherein the oil agent is present in a range from 0.2 to 0.8%(w/w), more preferably from 0.4 to 0.6% (w/w).
The skin cleansing composition as claimed in claim 1 , wherein the hydrocarbon oil selected from the group comprising of liquid isoparaffins, squalane and liquid paraffins.
The skin cleansing composition as claimed in claim 7, wherein the hydrocarbon oil is liquid paraffins.
9. The skin cleansing composition as claimed in claim 1 , wherein the natural oil is triglyceride of animal origin.
10. The skin cleansing composition as claimed in claim 1, wherein the natural oil is triglyceride of plant origin.
11. The skin cleansing composition as claimed in claim 10, wherein the triglyceride of plant origin is selected from the group comprising of coconut oil, (sweet) almond oil ( Prunus Amygdalus (Dulcis)), walnut oil, peach kernel oil, apricot kernel oil, avocado oil ( Persea Gratissima), tea tree oil, soybean oil, sesame oil, sunflower oil ( Helianthus Annuus), tsubaki oil, evening primrose oil, rice bran oil, palm kernel oil, mango kernel oil, cuckoo flower oil, thistle oil, macadamia nut oil, grape seed oil (Vitis vinifera), amaranth seed oil, argan oil, bamboo oil, olive oil ( Olea Europaea), wheat germ oil, pumpkin seed oil, mallow oil, hazelnut oil, safflower oil, canola oil, sasanqua oil, and jojoba oil.
12. The skin cleansing composition as claimed in claim 1 , wherein the synthetic oil is liquid polyisobutene of molecular weight in range from 300 to 3,000 (g/mol).
13. The skin cleansing composition as claimed in claim 1 , wherein the silicone oil is selected from dimethicones and cyclomethicones.
14. The skin cleansing composition as claimed in claim 1 , wherein the fatty acid is selected from oleic acid, isostearic acid and miture thereof. 15. The skin cleansing composition as claimed in claim 1 , wherein the oil agent is hydrocarbon oil, silicone oil and mixture thereof.
16. The skin cleansing composition as claimed in claim 1 , wherein the anionic Methacrylate Copolymer is Acrylates/Beheneth-25 Methacrylate copolymer present in a range from 0.3 to 0.6% (w/w).
17. The skin cleansing composition as claimed in claim 16, wherein the acrylates/Beheneth-25 Methacrylate Copolymer is in form of an emulsion.
18. The skin cleansing composition as claimed in claim 17, wherein the acrylates/Beheneth-25 Methacrylate Copolymer is in form of an emulsion comprising 1 to 5 % by weight sodium laureth sulfate. 19. The skin cleansing composition as claimed in claim 1 , wherein the neutralizing agent is selected from the group comprising of 2-amino-2-methyl-l -propanol (AMP), 2-amino-2-methyl-l ,3- propandiol (AMPD), mono-isopropanolamine, tri-isopropanolamine, inorganic bases sodium hydroxide and potassium hydroxide, and mixture thereof.
20. The skin cleansing composition as claimed in claim 19, wherein the neutralizing agent is sodium hydroxide.
21. The skin cleansing composition as claimed in claim 19, wherein the neutralizing agent facilitates in neutralization of anionic methacrylate copolymer for formation of gel network.
22. The skin cleansing composition as claimed in claim 1 , wherein the moisturizing agent is present in a range from 2 to 5% (w/w).
23. The skin cleansing composition as claimed in claim 22, wherein the moisturizing agent is selected from the group comprising of glycerin, propylene glycol, butylene glycol and mixture thereof. 24. The skin cleansing composition as claimed in claim 23, wherein the moisturizing agent is glycerin.
25. The skin cleansing composition as claimed in claim 1 , wherein the colorant is oil soluble.
26. The skin cleansing composition as claimed in claim 25, wherein the oil soluble colorant is selected from the group comprising of CI42090, CI61570, CI16035, Cl 10316 and mixture thereof. 27. The skin cleansing composition as claimed in claim 1 , wherein the colorant is aqueous phase soluble.
28. The skin cleansing composition as claimed in claim 27, wherein the aqueous soluble colorant is selected from Cl 42090, Cl 61570, Cl 16035, and Cl 10316.
29. The skin cleansing composition as claimed in claim 1, wherein the oil soluble colorant and aqueous phase soluble colorant is present in a range from 0.0005 to 0.001 % (w/w). 30. The skin cleansing composition as claimed in claim 1 , wherein the preservative and co-preservative is in range from 0.1 to 1 % (w/w).
31. The skin cleansing composition as claimed in claim 30, wherein the preservative is selected from the group comprising of phenoxyethanol, benzethonium chloride, benzalkonium chloride and mixture thereof, preferably phenoxyethanol.
32. The skin cleansing composition as claimed in claim 30, wherein the co-preservative facilitates in strengthening the effect of the preservatives.
33. The skin cleansing composition as claimed in claim 30, wherein the co-preservative is selected from the group comprising of ethylhexyl glycerine, l,6-hexandiol and mixture thereof.
34. The skin cleansing composition as claimed in claim 1 , wherein the water is in range from 91 1 93% (w/w).
35. The skin cleansing composition as claimed in claim 1 , wherein the pH of said composition is in range from 6.5 to 7.5.
36. The skin cleansing composition as claimed in claim 1 , wherein the skin cleansing composition comprises at least one of: perfume, antioxidants, active ingredients, vitamins, extracts from plants and mixture thereof.
37. The skin cleansing composition as claimed in claim 1 , wherein the skin cleansing composition is having an isotropic liquid phase wherein the oil droplets are dispersed in the liquid phase. 38. A method for cleansing face and removing make-up comprising the skin cleansing composition as claimed in claim 1 , wherein said composition is applied to skin having make up thereon to remove cosmetic composition.
PCT/IB2019/056279 2018-07-24 2019-07-23 Skin cleansing composition containing visible oil droplets WO2020021448A1 (en)

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