WO2019193186A1

WO2019193186A1 - Cosmetic use of sunflower seed hull fibres

Info

Publication number: WO2019193186A1
Application number: PCT/EP2019/058715
Authority: WO
Inventors: Véronique GUYOT-FERRÉOL; Solène CHAIGNE; Chrystelle MOUIX
Original assignee: Sensient Cosmetic Technologies
Priority date: 2018-04-05
Filing date: 2019-04-05
Publication date: 2019-10-10
Also published as: FR3079751A1; FR3079751B1

Abstract

The invention relates to the cosmetic use of sunflower seed hull fibres and especially uses of said sunflower seed hull fibres as fillers, as agent for the absorption of aqueous phase, such as sweat, of oil, of wax, such as sebum, or of mixtures thereof, and/or as dye.

Description

Cosmetic use of hull fiber of sunflower seeds

The present invention relates to the cosmetic use of sunflower seed shell fibers, in particular in a cosmetic composition for makeup, hygiene and / or care of the skin, lips and integuments such as nails, eyelashes, eyebrows or hair.

It is known to use natural fibers as additives in cosmetic compositions. For example, cellulose fibers are used in some mascaras to provide an elongating effect. Silk is used in the composition of many hair products or makeup.

However, some fibers are difficult to disperse homogeneously in compositions and clumps can form and change the visual appearance of the composition.

In addition, most of the natural fibers, especially those of cellulose, are clear or even white, which has the effect of lightening the dark cosmetic compositions, such as mascaras or eyeliners. This whitening effect limits their use, especially in cosmetic compositions intended to be applied to dark skin or dark hair.

An object of the invention is to provide fibers which can be used in a cosmetic composition and which do not have the disadvantages described above.

For this purpose, the subject of the invention is the cosmetic use of sunflower seed shell fibers, in particular their use in a cosmetic composition comprising in which they are dispersed in a cosmetically acceptable medium.

The cosmetic composition is, for example, a makeup, hygiene and / or skin care product or or integuments such as nails, eyelashes, eyebrows or hair.

The subject of the invention is in particular the cosmetic use of sunflower seed shell fibers in a cosmetic composition, said sunflower shell fibers being useful as filler and / or as an aqueous phase absorbent, such as sweat, oil, wax, such as sebum, or mixtures thereof, and / or as a dye.

The term "cosmetically acceptable medium" means a medium compatible with the skin, the lips and / or integuments and adapted for use in the cosmetic field. Sunflower is a plant of the family Asteraceae, whose flowers are grouped in capitules large. Sunflower seeds have a shell comprising fibers.

The hull fibers of sunflower seeds generally include:

from 42% to 52% by weight of cellulose;

from 10% to 15% by weight of hemicellulose;

from 18 to 28% by weight of lignin; and

from 16% to 20% by weight of soluble materials, such as proteins, and especially pectins.

This composition allows the sunflower seed shell fibers to have improved water and / or oil absorption capacity over fibers consisting solely of cellulose.

Sunflower seed shell fibers, also called sunflower shell fibers, generally have an average length as measured by dry granulometry of between 100 nanometers and 1 centimeter, typically between 100 nanometers and 1 millimeter, especially between 100 nanometers and 100 micrometers. The length of the sunflower seed shell fibers can also be measured by scanning electron microscopy on an average of 10 fibers.

Fibers of this length are not visible to the naked eye. However, they can change the visual appearance of the composition in which they are incorporated, for example by adding volume.

The hull fibers of sunflower seeds generally have a density of between 200 and 350 kg / m ³ .

They advantageously have a brown or black coloration, in particular at a pH of 7 as measured at 25 ° C., which makes them particularly suitable for being introduced into a colored cosmetic composition, in particular of dark color.

In addition, the inventors have found that the sunflower seed shell fibers have a high absorption capacity of aqueous phase, such as sweat, oil, wax, such as sebum, or mixtures thereof, which makes them particularly useful as an absorbent agent in a cosmetic composition, such as a dry shampoo. By high absorption capacity, it is meant that the fibers are capable of absorbing and / or adsorbing the aqueous phase, the oil, the wax or the mixture thereof with a setting greater than or equal to 1.0 g / l. boy Wut.

Advantageously, the sunflower seed shell fibers are easy to incorporate into a cosmetic composition. The cosmetic composition comprising the sunflower seed shell fibers is preferably free of aggregate and / or clumps.

The cosmetic composition generally comprises from 0.1 to 15% by weight, typically from 1% to 10% by weight, in particular from 2 to 7% by weight, preferably from 3 to 5% by weight of seed shell fibers. sunflower.

The cosmetic composition further comprises at least one cosmetically acceptable compound chosen from film-forming agents, dyes, pigments, odor molecules, antioxidants, vitamins, waxes, preservatives, ultraviolet filters and rheological agents, such as thickeners, emollients, fillers, surfactants, cosmetic actives and mixtures thereof.

The film-forming agent is in particular chosen from Covacryl A15WP, Covacryl E14WP, Covacryl P12, Covacryl MS1 1WP, Covacryl MT10, Natpure® Film PR and Natpure® Film GR, these various film-forming agents being marketed by Sensient Cosmetic Technologies.

The dye is in particular one of those listed in Annex IV of Regulation (EC) No 1223/2009 of the European Parliament and the Council of 30 November 2009 on cosmetic products as in force in March 2018, or a mixture of them. The preservative is in particular one of those listed in Appendix V of the said by-law or a mixture of these. The ultraviolet filter is in particular one of those listed in Annex VI of said Regulation or a mixture thereof.

As the fibers bring a dark color, the cosmetic composition may have a reduced content or even be free of black pigment and / or black dye, or even free of pigment and / or dye.

The cosmetic composition may comprise at least one solvent chosen from organic solvents, in particular alcohols and / or oils, aqueous solvents, in particular water, and mixtures thereof. The solvent is chosen from solvents suitable for use in the cosmetics field.

When it comprises an aqueous phase, the cosmetic composition advantageously has a pH of between 5.5 and 12, preferably from 6 to 8. The pH is as measured at 20 ° C.

The cosmetic composition may comprise an aqueous saline solution, in particular an aqueous sodium chloride solution, in particular an aqueous solution comprising less than 10% by weight of sodium chloride. Indeed, the fibers sunflower seed shell are generally compatible with a salt medium comprising up to 10% by weight of salt, for example sodium chloride.

The term "compatible" is understood to mean that the mixture of a solution comprising 3% by weight of sunflower seed shell fibers with a solution comprising up to 10% by weight of salt has no precipitation or flocculation phenomenon and wherein no fiber degradation is observed after one month, or even three months, at 20 ° C.

The cosmetic composition may also comprise an alcohol, for example ethanol, preferably in a proportion of less than 50% by weight, especially less than 30% by weight.

The composition may also be free of solvents, especially water. It is then generally in the form of powder.

The cosmetic composition can be in different forms depending on the intended destination.

The cosmetic composition may be in the form of a dispersion, especially of suspension, in solid or pasty form, in the form of an oily or aqueous gel or in the form of a powder.

The cosmetic composition is chosen from hygiene products, such as shower gels or shampoos, skincare products such as moisturizing creams, complexion bases (primers) or anti-wrinkle creams, and makeup products, such as bottoms. complexion, eyeliners or mascaras.

The cosmetic composition may be for example a mascara, an eyeliner, a primer, a foundation, a dry shampoo.

Preferably, a mascara or dry shampoo comprises from 1 to 15% by weight, especially from 3 to 7% by weight, of sunflower shell fiber.

Preferably, a primer or foundation comprises from 1 to 5% by weight of sunflower shell fiber.

The cosmetic composition may be prepared by mixing sunflower seed shell fibers with at least one cosmetically acceptable compound, in particular at least one of those defined above, and optionally with a solvent, in particular with one of those defined above. -above.

Advantageously, the process for preparing the cosmetic composition is free of a step of grinding the fibers. Advantageously, the mixture of the fibers with at least one cosmetically acceptable compound and optionally with a solvent is free of an ultrasonic dispersion step or by another dispersion method.

The sunflower seed shell fibers may be added to a cosmetic composition, to a phase for the preparation of a cosmetic composition or to a cosmetically acceptable compound.

In addition, the invention relates to the cosmetic use of sunflower shell fibers as filler and / or dye, in particular in a cosmetic composition, in particular in a mascara and / or an eyeliner. Due to their coloring, sunflower shell fibers do not significantly alter the color of black or brown mascara and / or eyeliner.

The invention also relates to the cosmetic use of sunflower seed shell fibers as an aqueous phase absorbing agent, such as sweat, oil, wax, such as sebum, or mixtures thereof, especially in a cosmetic composition.

It also relates to the use of sunflower seed shell fibers as fibers of a cosmetic composition to avoid lightening and / or bleaching the cosmetic composition.

The invention also relates to the cosmetic use of sunflower seed shell fibers in a makeup composition, such as a primer or a foundation, especially for dark skin.

Other advantages and features of the present invention will become apparent from the illustrative examples set forth below.

EXAMPLE 1: Property of hull fibers of sunflower seeds

Absorption capacities of two sunflower seed shell fiber samples were measured at 25 ° C for different aqueous phases or oils.

The absorption capacity corresponds to the ratio of the weight of aqueous phase or oil absorbed on the weight of fibers used.

Sample a1 consists of sunflower seed shell fibers of average length equal to 31.7 μm, with a standard deviation of 3.96 μm as measured by dry granulometry, the measurement having been carried out on three lots of the sample a1 and the average value having been retained. These fibers are marketed under the name Natpure® Fiber SF50 by Sensient.

Sample a2 consists of sunflower seed shell fibers of average length equal to 56.4 μm, with a standard deviation of 1.33 μm as measured by dry granulometry, the measurement having been carried out on three lots of the sample a2 and the average value having been retained.

The results are shown in Table 1.

Table 1: Absorption Capacity of Sunflower Seed Hull Fibers

EXAMPLE 2 Mascara Comprising Sunflower Seed Hull Fibers

Mascara bases were prepared according to the compositions shown in Table 2.

The percentages are expressed by weight relative to the total weight of the base.

Table 2: Mascara Basics

The mascara compositions b1 to b4 were prepared according to the indications in Table 3.

The percentages are expressed by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

Table 3: Mascara Compositions

EXAMPLE 3: Compositions of mascara

Mascara compositions m1 to m5 were prepared according to the compositions shown in Table 4.

Table 4: Mascara compositions with different proportions of sunflower seed hull fiber

The various compositions m1 to m5 were then characterized in the L ^* a ^* b ^* CIE 1976 colorimetric space, also called CIELAB 1976, using the D65 color standard. The L ^* parameter, which reflects the luminance, of each composition was measured in CIELAB 1976.

The results of these measurements are shown in Table 5 below. Table 5: Luminance of compositions m1 to m5

Table 5 shows that mascaras compositions comprising between 3% and 15% by weight of sunflower seed shell fibers have very similar luminances.

It is considered that two compositions have a very close luminance, or equivalent, when the absolute value of the difference of their luminance L ^* , also called AL ^* , is less than or equal to 1.

The incorporation of sunflower seed shell fibers does not therefore significantly alter the color of the composition.

EXAMPLE 4: Compositions of mascara

M6 m8 mascara compositions were prepared according to the compositions shown in Table 6.

Table 6: Mascara Compositions Comprising Different Types of Fibers

The different m6 and m8 compositions were then characterized in the L ^* a ^* b ^* CIE 1976 colorimetric space, also called CIELAB 1976, using the D65 color standard. The L ^* parameter, which reflects the luminance, of each composition was measured in CIELAB 1976.

The results of these measurements are shown in Table 7 below.

Table 7: Luminance of compositions m6 to m8

The composition comprising 5% by weight of the sunflower seed shell fibers has a more intense black color than the composition comprising 5% by weight of the cellulose fibers. EXAMPLE 5: Compositions of mascara

Mascara compositions n1 to n3 were prepared according to the compositions shown in Table 8.

Different ratios of sunflower seed shell fiber and black pigment dispersion were added to a colorless mascara base.

Table 8: Mascara compositions with different ratios sunflower seed shell fiber: black pigment dispersion

The compositions n1 to n3 were prepared according to the following experimental protocol:

- preparation of phase A by dispersing glycerin in distilled water; preparation of the COVATHICK 2009 gel (phase B) by dispersing 4% by weight of COVATHICK powder 2009 in distilled water by means of a Rayneri stirrer-mixer, then of an Ultraturrax homogenizer-disperser for 1 minute at 13,500 rpm;

addition of phase B to phase A and heating of the mixture obtained at 85 ° C .;

- preparation of phase C by mixing Dracorin CE, Cerabeil DAB, Cerauba T3 and NATPURE® FEEL-M ECO and heating phase C obtained at 85 ° C;

adding phase C to the mixture A + B and stirring the mixture obtained, then decreasing the temperature to room temperature;

addition of phase D and stirring of the mixture obtained at room temperature;

addition of phase E and stirring of the mixture obtained at room temperature; and

addition of sunflower seed shell fibers (phase F) or Covarine (phase G), whereby the mascara composition is obtained.

The different compositions n1 to n3 were then characterized in the L ^* a ^* b ^* CIE 1976 colorimetric space, also called CIELAB 1976, using the D65 colorimetric standard. The L ^* parameter of each composition, which reflects the luminance, was measured in CIELAB 1976.

The results of these measurements are shown in Table 9 below.

Table 9: Luminance of compositions n1 to n3

It can be seen from Table 9 that the mascaras compositions comprising:

- 25% by weight of black pigment dispersion and 5% by weight of sunflower seed shell fiber, or

- 20% by weight of dispersion of black pigments and 10% by weight of sunflower seed hull fibers

have equivalent luminance. It is possible to reduce the proportions of black pigments by replacing them with sunflower seed shell fibers, without degrading the color of the mascara composition. EXAMPLE 6 Primer comprising hull fibers of sunflower seeds

Primers, or foundation bases, were prepared according to the composition shown in Table 10.

Table 10: Primers

EXAMPLE 7 Dry Shampoo Comprising Sunflower Seed Hull Fibers

Dry shampoos were prepared according to the compositions indicated in Table 1 1. The percentages are expressed by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

Table 11: Dry Shampoos

EXAMPLE 8: Foundation composition comprising sunflower seed shell fibers Foundation foundations were prepared according to the composition indicated in Table 12.

The percentages are expressed by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. Table 12: Foundation funds

Claims

1 Cosmetic use of sunflower seed shell fiber.

2. The use according to claim 1, in a cosmetic composition comprising said sunflower seed hull fibers dispersed in a cosmetically acceptable medium.

Use according to claim 2, wherein the cosmetic composition comprises from 0.1% to 15% by weight of said sunflower seed shell fibers.

4. The use according to claim 3, wherein the cosmetic composition comprises from 2% to 7% by weight of said sunflower seed shell fibers.

5. Use according to any one of claims 2 to 4, wherein the cosmetic composition comprises at least one cosmetically acceptable compound chosen from film-forming agents, dyes, pigments, odor molecules, antioxidants, vitamins, waxes, preservatives, ultraviolet filters, rheological agents, such as thickeners, emollients, fillers, surfactants, cosmetic actives and mixtures thereof.

6.- Use according to any one of claims 2 to 5, wherein the cosmetic composition is a makeup product, hygiene and / or care of the skin and or integuments such as nails, eyelashes, eyebrows. or the hair.

7.- Use according to any one of claims 2 to 6, wherein the cosmetic composition is in the form of a dispersion, in particular of suspension, in solid or pasty form, in the form of an oily or aqueous gel or under the form of a powder.

8.- Use according to any one of claims 2 to 7, wherein the cosmetic composition comprises at least one solvent selected from organic solvents, including alcohols and / or oils, aqueous solvents, including water, and mixtures thereof.

9. Use according to any one of claims 1 to 8, said sunflower shell fibers being useful as filler.

10. Use according to any one of claims 1 to 9, said sunflower shell fibers being useful as a dye.

Use according to any one of claims 1 to 10, said sunflower shell fibers being useful as an agent capable of absorbing an aqueous solution, an oil, a wax or a mixture thereof.

12.- Use of sunflower seed hull fibers as fibers of a cosmetic composition to avoid lightening and / or bleaching the cosmetic composition