WO2019182812A1 - Utilisation d'urée dans des mélanges cosmétiques pour les cheveux - Google Patents

Utilisation d'urée dans des mélanges cosmétiques pour les cheveux Download PDF

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Publication number
WO2019182812A1
WO2019182812A1 PCT/US2019/021877 US2019021877W WO2019182812A1 WO 2019182812 A1 WO2019182812 A1 WO 2019182812A1 US 2019021877 W US2019021877 W US 2019021877W WO 2019182812 A1 WO2019182812 A1 WO 2019182812A1
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WO
WIPO (PCT)
Prior art keywords
urea
hydrogen peroxide
urease
individual package
package containing
Prior art date
Application number
PCT/US2019/021877
Other languages
English (en)
Inventor
Fabien Boulineau
Original Assignee
BOULINEAU Fabien
Priority date (The priority date is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the date listed.)
Filing date
Publication date
Application filed by BOULINEAU Fabien filed Critical BOULINEAU Fabien
Publication of WO2019182812A1 publication Critical patent/WO2019182812A1/fr

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Classifications

    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q5/00—Preparations for care of the hair
    • A61Q5/10—Preparations for permanently dyeing the hair
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/19—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing inorganic ingredients
    • A61K8/22—Peroxides; Oxygen; Ozone
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/33—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
    • A61K8/34—Alcohols
    • A61K8/347—Phenols
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/33—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
    • A61K8/38—Percompounds, e.g. peracids
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/40—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing nitrogen
    • A61K8/41—Amines
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/40—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing nitrogen
    • A61K8/41—Amines
    • A61K8/415—Aminophenols
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/64—Proteins; Peptides; Derivatives or degradation products thereof
    • A61K8/66—Enzymes
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K2800/00—Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
    • A61K2800/80—Process related aspects concerning the preparation of the cosmetic composition or the storage or application thereof
    • A61K2800/88—Two- or multipart kits
    • A61K2800/884—Sequential application

Definitions

  • the invention relates generally to a component for a cosmetic mixture, and more particularly for hair color.
  • Demi-permanent and permanent hair color is a widespread hair color technology that is typically marketed as a two-component kit, namely a cream and a developer.
  • the cream usually contains an alkaline agent with at least one aromatic amine, referred to as a primary intermediate, and at least one aromatic compound with electron-donating groups, referred to as a coupler.
  • the cream is combined with the developer.
  • the role of hydrogen peroxide is two-fold, namely to oxidize the primary intermediate in order to combine it with the coupler and create the dyes, and in combination with the alkaline agent, to remove natural hair pigmentation and thus allow the deposition of the formed dyes to be visible in hair.
  • the role of the alkaline agent is to swell the hair cuticle to allow dyes to penetrate in the hair fiber and create a long-lasting color result.
  • a typical alkaline agent in hair color is ammonia. Ammonia (N3 ⁇ 4) and ammonium hydroxide (NH 4 OH) are in equilibrium within the composition.
  • FIG. 1 highlights the chemistry and FIG. 2 illustrates the typical application to hair.
  • Urea also referred to as carbamide
  • Urea is a colorless, odorless solid.
  • Urea is widely used as a latent source of ammonia in fertilizers.
  • the soil bacteria contain the enzyme urease which catalyzes the breakdown of urea into carbamic acid and ammonia.
  • Carbamic acid (H2NCO2H) readily decomposes in the presence of water to ammonium hydroxide (NH 4 OH) and carbon dioxide (CO2), thus readily providing ammonia as a nutrient to the soil.
  • NH 4 OH ammonium hydroxide
  • CO2 carbon dioxide
  • the present invention covers the use of urea as a source of ammonia in demi-permanent and permanent hair color, more particularly, the use of urea- hydrogen peroxide, or the use of urea and hydrogen peroxide as independent components, at least one primary intermediate and at least one coupler, in combination with the enzyme urease, to provide a source of ammonia at the time of use when combined with hydrogen peroxide.
  • Non-limiting embodiments described herein relate to a kit comprising: (i) a first individual package comprising urease (e.g., present in natural extracts) and (ii) a second individual package comprising urea.
  • urease e.g., present in natural extracts
  • urea e.g., urea
  • compositions comprising urea, urease, an oxidizing agent, and oxidative dye precursors.
  • Urea, urease, an oxidizing agent and oxidative dye precursors can be combined as a 4-part system. Alternatively some of the components can be combined as one component.
  • an oxidizing agent and urea can be as one component mixed with urease and oxidative dye precursors (3 -part system), or urea and dye precursors can be as one component mixed with urease and an oxidizing agent (3-part system).
  • dye precursors, as one component are mixed with urease and an oxidizing agent composed of urea and hydrogen peroxide (also known as carbamide peroxide).
  • Still further non-limiting embodiments described herein relate to a method of coloring hair.
  • the method comprises mixing urea, urease, an oxidizing agent, and oxidative dye precursors, and applying the mixture obtained from the previous step to hair.
  • FIG. 1 illustrates one embodiment of current hair color technology.
  • FIG. 2 illustrates one embodiment of a flow diagram for typical hair application.
  • FIG. 3 illustrates one embodiment of the present disclosure showing the transformation of urea to ammonia as a fertilizer via the action of the enzyme urease.
  • Fig. 4 illustrates one possible mixture realized in the experimental section of the application.
  • the term“hair” encompasses without limitation keratin-containing fibers or other aggregations of non-living keratinous fibers. This is applicable to mammalian hair, human hair being a particular example thereof. So, it will be understood that also wool, fur, and other keratin-containing fibers are suitable substrates for the compositions described herein.
  • the term“cosmetically acceptable salts” means salts which are suitable for use in contact with the skin or hair of humans and lower animals without undue toxicity, incompatibility, instability, irritation, allergic response, and the like for example chlorides, bromides, sulfates, malates, tartrates, lactates, acetates, and hemisulfates.
  • cream used herein is also known as“hair color chassis” and also as “creme”.
  • Various formulations of creams are well known in the art.
  • the main ingredients of a cream are water, waxes, surfactants, and oils. These are not involved chemically but provide a creamy texture to the product for application to the hair.
  • the creams of the invention have a weight of O. lg-lOOg, preferably 30g.
  • urea is used as the source of ammonia.
  • Other components in the present kit, composition and method are set forth below.
  • any oxidizing agent known in the art may be used in the embodiments of the present kit, composition, and method.
  • Preferred oxidizing agents are water-soluble peroxygen oxidizing agents.
  • water-soluble means that in standard conditions at least at least lOg, preferably 30g, more preferably 60g of the oxidizing agent can be dissolved in one (1) liter of deionized water at 25°C.
  • the oxidizing agents are valuable for the initial solubilization and decolorization of the melanin (bleaching) and accelerate the oxidation of the oxidative dye precursors (oxidative dyeing) in the hair shaft.
  • Suitable water-soluble oxidizing agents include, but are not limited to: inorganic peroxygen materials capable of yielding hydrogen peroxide in an aqueous solution.
  • Suitable water-soluble peroxygen oxidizing agents include, but are not limited to: hydrogen peroxide; inorganic alkali metal peroxides (such as sodium periodate and sodium peroxide); organic peroxides (such as urea peroxide and melamine peroxide); inorganic perhydrate salt bleaching compounds (such as the alkali metal salts of perborates, percarbonates, perphosphates, persilicates, persulphates and the like); and mixtures thereof.
  • Inorganic perhydrate salts may be incorporated, for example, as monohydrates, tetrahydrates. Alkyl/aryl peroxides and/or peroxidases may also be used. Mixtures of two or more such oxidizing agents can be used if desired.
  • the oxidizing agents may be provided in aqueous solution or as a powder which is dissolved prior to use.
  • the oxidative dye precursors used in the present kit, composition and, method are usually classified either as primary intermediates or couplers. Various couplers may be used with primary intermediates in order to obtain different shades of color. Oxidative dye precursors maybe free bases or the cosmetically acceptable salts thereof. The oxidative dye precursors are used at concentrations of 0.1-10%. The amount to be used depends on the desired shade.
  • Suitable primary intermediates include, but are not limited to: toluene-2, 5- diamine, p-phenylenediamine, N-phenyl-p-phenylenediamine, N,N-bis(2-hydroxyethyl)-p- phenylenediamine, 2-hydroxyethyl-p-phenylenediamine, hydroxypropyl-bis-(N- hydroxyethyl-p-phenylenediamine), 2-methoxymethyl-p-phenylenediamine, 2-(l,2- dihydroxy-ethyl)-p-phenylenediamine, 2,2'-(2-(4-aminophenylamino)ethylazanediyl) diethanol, 2-(2,5-diamino-4-methoxyphenyl)propane-l,3-diol, 2-(7-amino-2H- benzo[b][l,4]oxazin-4(3H)-yl)
  • Suitable couplers include, but are not limited to: resorcinol, 4-chlororesorcinol,
  • Embodiments of the present disclosure also relate to the use of urea-hydrogen peroxide, or the use of urea and hydrogen peroxide as independent components, at least one primary intermediate and at least one coupler, in combination with the enzyme urease, to provide a source of ammonia at the time of use when combined with hydrogen peroxide.
  • One non-limiting embodiment of one method comprises i) mixing urea, urease, oxidizing agent and oxidative dye precursors, wherein the oxidative dye precursors comprise a primary intermediate and a coupler, ii) applying the mixture obtained from the previous step to the hair, and iii) rinsing the hair.
  • the oxidizing agent is hydrogen peroxide
  • the urea and hydrogen peroxide can be provided as carbamide peroxide
  • the primary intermediate may be a substance as defined herein, for example, para-phenylenediamine or para-aminophenol
  • the coupler may be a substances as defined herein, for example, resorcinol, meta-aminophenol or meta-diphenylenediamine.
  • the present disclosure also relates to one embodiment of a hair coloring kit which may be used for carrying out the method for coloring hair described hereinbefore.
  • the kit may comprise any of the ingredients disclosed in the hair coloring compositions section of this application. These ingredients may be in one of four different combinations. These include:
  • a) a two-part system which comprises an individual package containing in a cream urease and an oxidative dye precursor and a second individual package containing urea and hydrogen peroxide;
  • a four-part system which comprises an individual package containing in a cream an oxidative dye precursor, a second individual package containing urea, a third individual package containing hydrogen peroxide, and a fourth individual package containing urease.
  • the urease is preferably Jack bean urease, in an amount ranging from 0.0lg-50g, preferably 1 g; b) the oxidative dye precursors are at concentrations of 0.1-10%; c) the urea is in an amount ranging from O.Olg-lOOg, preferably 3g; and d) the hydrogen peroxide is in the form of an aqueous solution thereof in an amount ranging from 1- 12%, O. lg-lOOg, preferably 3%-6%, 30g.
  • the oxidizing agent is hydrogen peroxide.
  • the urea and hydrogen peroxide can be provided as carbamide peroxide
  • the primary intermediate may be substances as defined herein, for example, para-phenylenediamine or para-aminophenol
  • the coupler may be substances as defined herein, for example, resorcinol, meta- aminophenol or meta-diphenylenediamine.
  • the kit may further comprise any one or a combination of several optional components. These include a shampoo (lg-lOOg) for use in rinsing the hair after coloring and/or a conditioner composition. These may any commercially available shampoo and conditioner, or their substantial equivalents.
  • the kit may further comprise any commercially available color refresher (lg- lOOg) or its substantial equivalent.
  • color refresher may comprise at least one direct dye (which is a pigment which does not require a developer for maintenance) and may be applied to the hair immediately after the oxidative color.
  • the direct dye is used at a rate of l0g-30g per application, depending on the quantity of hair. It is applied typically during the next wash cycle(s) from one day to sixty days after the original hair color application.
  • This color refresher can be used to increase the initial color obtained and/or boost the color during the wash and style cycle until the next coloring or bleaching event.
  • the present invention may be utilized in a variety of packaging and dispensing devices. These dispensing devices can come in the form of separate devices which may be used independently or in combination with one another. Typically, the hair coloring compositions are contained within separate single or multi compartment containers so that the compositions can be stored separately from one another before use. The compositions are then mixed together by a mixing means and then applied to the consumer’s hair by an application means.
  • the packages in the kit may be a bottle, a tube, an aerosol, or a sachet, or combinations thereof. Other types of packaging are contemplated.
  • the kit may further comprise a set of instructions comprising instructing the user to color its hair according to the method defined hereinbefore.
  • the set of instruction may comprise, for example:
  • oxidative dye precursors comprise a primary intermediate and a coupler
  • the set of instructions may comprise any additional step which is disclosed hereinbefore in the method for coloring hair section of the application.
  • the instructions may be in any convenient form. For example, they may be on a printed paper insert or they may be printed on the outside or inside surface of the kit packaging means, which is typically a cardboard box.
  • urea as the source of ammonia in demi -permanent and permanent hair color offers several advantages including, but not limited to: 1) it will only provide ammonia at the time of use (mixing and application), thus avoiding hazardous handling of ammonia during manufacturing and long-term storage of ammonia in the product; 2) it allows flexibility for the manufacturer and hair dresser to adjust the amount of enzyme/urea-hydrogen peroxide to be used in order to achieve various results (e.g., permanent or demi-permanent hair color); 3) it is environmentally friendly and more natural than conventional hair color products since urease can be obtained from various plants and extracts.
  • the overall energy consumption is reduced since a natural enzyme will do the work as opposed to the current synthesis of ammonia from nitrogen and hydrogen, which is energy-consuming.
  • the urease can be obtained from plants and thus farming rather than industrial chemical synthesis; 4) the cream will be called “ammonia free” prior to mixing; and 5) it provides a stable source of oxidizing agent if urea- hydrogen peroxide, i.e., carbamide peroxide, is used.
  • Dye composition formulation for a medium dark brown shade (free of ammonia or alkaline agent): toluene-2, 5, -diamine, resorcinol, m-aminophenol, 2,4- diaminophenoxyethanol, hair coloring chassis 97%
  • the color of the sample became brown (which is the desired color based on the dye composition) while the color of the control remained purple. This indicated that the urease converted the urea into ammonium hydroxide/ammonia. Additionally, one could smell ammonia from the sample mixture while the control did not smell like ammonia. It is worth noting that the smell of ammonia generated by the present invention was less harsh than equivalent ammonia-containing hair color cream. This might be because the ammonia in the present invention is generated progressively and on an as-needed basis rather than present in bulk within the cream with conventional ammonia-containing hair color products.
  • the respective mixtures were applied with a brush on a portion of hair swatch of uncolored natural white hair and left for 30 minutes at room temperature (25°C). After +30 minutes, the resulting hair was rinsed under water for 1 minute, washed with a 2-in-l shampoo/conditioner for 1 minute, rinsed again with water and then blow-dried and combed. After treatment, the hair strand treated with the mixture containing urease showed the desired brown color, whereas the hair strand treated with the control (no urease) showed a color with shades of dark purple, further indicating that the necessary ammonia was not present in order to provide the desired color. This demonstrates that the presence of urease and urea with dye precursors and hydrogen peroxide provides the necessary ammonia for the color reaction to occur and dye hair.

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  • Health & Medical Sciences (AREA)
  • Life Sciences & Earth Sciences (AREA)
  • Animal Behavior & Ethology (AREA)
  • General Health & Medical Sciences (AREA)
  • Public Health (AREA)
  • Veterinary Medicine (AREA)
  • Birds (AREA)
  • Epidemiology (AREA)
  • Emergency Medicine (AREA)
  • Chemical & Material Sciences (AREA)
  • Inorganic Chemistry (AREA)
  • Cosmetics (AREA)

Abstract

L'invention concerne un procédé de coloration des cheveux dans lequel on utilise de l'urée en tant que source d'ammoniac, en particulier de l'urée-peroxyde d'hydrogène, ou de l'urée et du peroxyde d'hydrogène en tant que composants indépendants, au moins un intermédiaire primaire et au moins un coupleur, en combinaison avec l'enzyme uréase, pour fournir une source d'ammoniac au moment de l'utilisation en combinaison avec du peroxyde d'hydrogène. L'invention concerne également le kit et la composition associés.
PCT/US2019/021877 2018-03-19 2019-03-12 Utilisation d'urée dans des mélanges cosmétiques pour les cheveux WO2019182812A1 (fr)

Applications Claiming Priority (2)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
US201862644846P 2018-03-19 2018-03-19
US62/644,846 2018-03-19

Publications (1)

Publication Number Publication Date
WO2019182812A1 true WO2019182812A1 (fr) 2019-09-26

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Citations (5)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
GB921543A (en) * 1959-03-28 1963-03-20 Wella Ag Process for permanently waving or straightening hair
RU95101065A (ru) * 1994-01-24 1997-02-27 Л'Ореаль (FR) Композиция для окислительного окрашивания кератиновых волокон, таких как волосы, и способ их окрашивания
DE19816072A1 (de) * 1998-04-09 1999-10-14 Wella Ag Stabile flüssige Ureasezubereitung und Haarkeratindauerverformungsmittel mit einem Gehalt an dieser Zubereitung
WO2003084495A1 (fr) * 2002-04-11 2003-10-16 L'oreal Composition de coloration par oxydation pour fibres de keratine humaine
WO2004041020A2 (fr) * 2002-11-07 2004-05-21 L'oreal Procedes et systemes permettant de colorer et de faire briller les cheveux

Patent Citations (5)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
GB921543A (en) * 1959-03-28 1963-03-20 Wella Ag Process for permanently waving or straightening hair
RU95101065A (ru) * 1994-01-24 1997-02-27 Л'Ореаль (FR) Композиция для окислительного окрашивания кератиновых волокон, таких как волосы, и способ их окрашивания
DE19816072A1 (de) * 1998-04-09 1999-10-14 Wella Ag Stabile flüssige Ureasezubereitung und Haarkeratindauerverformungsmittel mit einem Gehalt an dieser Zubereitung
WO2003084495A1 (fr) * 2002-04-11 2003-10-16 L'oreal Composition de coloration par oxydation pour fibres de keratine humaine
WO2004041020A2 (fr) * 2002-11-07 2004-05-21 L'oreal Procedes et systemes permettant de colorer et de faire briller les cheveux

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