WO2019109243A1 - Composition cosmétique pour modifier de façon permanente la forme des fibres kératiniques - Google Patents

Composition cosmétique pour modifier de façon permanente la forme des fibres kératiniques Download PDF

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Publication number
WO2019109243A1
WO2019109243A1 PCT/CN2017/114592 CN2017114592W WO2019109243A1 WO 2019109243 A1 WO2019109243 A1 WO 2019109243A1 CN 2017114592 W CN2017114592 W CN 2017114592W WO 2019109243 A1 WO2019109243 A1 WO 2019109243A1
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keratinous fibers
chloride
shape
agent
cosmetic composition
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PCT/CN2017/114592
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English (en)
Inventor
Congying LIU
Xiaowei Chang
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Henkel Ag & Co.Kgaa
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Priority to PCT/CN2017/114592 priority Critical patent/WO2019109243A1/fr
Publication of WO2019109243A1 publication Critical patent/WO2019109243A1/fr

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    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A45—HAND OR TRAVELLING ARTICLES
    • A45D—HAIRDRESSING OR SHAVING EQUIPMENT; EQUIPMENT FOR COSMETICS OR COSMETIC TREATMENTS, e.g. FOR MANICURING OR PEDICURING
    • A45D7/00—Processes of waving, straightening or curling hair
    • A45D7/04—Processes of waving, straightening or curling hair chemical
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/19—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing inorganic ingredients
    • A61K8/22—Peroxides; Oxygen; Ozone
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/40—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing nitrogen
    • A61K8/41—Amines
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/40—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing nitrogen
    • A61K8/41—Amines
    • A61K8/416—Quaternary ammonium compounds
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/40—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing nitrogen
    • A61K8/44—Aminocarboxylic acids or derivatives thereof, e.g. aminocarboxylic acids containing sulfur; Salts; Esters or N-acylated derivatives thereof
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/46—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing sulfur
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/46—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing sulfur
    • A61K8/466—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing sulfur containing sulfonic acid derivatives; Salts
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/55—Phosphorus compounds
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/84—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions otherwise than those involving only carbon-carbon unsaturated bonds
    • A61K8/89—Polysiloxanes
    • A61K8/896—Polysiloxanes containing atoms other than silicon, carbon, oxygen and hydrogen, e.g. dimethicone copolyol phosphate
    • A61K8/898—Polysiloxanes containing atoms other than silicon, carbon, oxygen and hydrogen, e.g. dimethicone copolyol phosphate containing nitrogen, e.g. amodimethicone, trimethyl silyl amodimethicone or dimethicone propyl PG-betaine
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q5/00—Preparations for care of the hair
    • A61Q5/04—Preparations for permanent waving or straightening the hair

Definitions

  • the present invention relates to a cosmetic composition for permanently changing the shape of keratinous fibers, to a kit for changing the shape of keratinous fibers comprising the same, and to a method for changing the shape of keratinous fibers by applying the same.
  • a permanent change to the shape of keratinous fibers is usually carried out such that the fibers are mechanically deformed and the deformation is fixed by suitable aids (for example curlers, rollers) .
  • suitable aids for example curlers, rollers
  • the fibers are treated with the aqueous preparation of a keratin-reducing substance and are rinsed with water or an aqueous solution following an exposure time.
  • the fibers are then treated with the aqueous preparation of an oxidizing agent. Following an exposure time, this is also rinsed out, and the fibers are freed from the mechanical deformation aids.
  • a change of shape to the keratinous fibers which is permanent and stable with respect to the influence of water can be achieved only as a result of chemical interventions in the hair which aim to cleave the cystine disulphide bonds found in hair keratin.
  • This cleaving is usually performed under the influence of keratin-reducing substances. These are reducing agents which cleave some of the disulphide bonds of the keratin to form -SH-groups, thus resulting in a relaxation of the peptide cross-linking. Due to the stress of the keratinous fibers wound onto a roller, the keratin structure is re-oriented.
  • a known method of this type is the permanent waving treatment of human hair. This can be used both to produce curls and waves in straight hair and to straighten curly hair.
  • the permanent waving treatment results in curled hair which is internally stressed, includes new (reductively or oxidatively modified) amino acids, and is incompletely cross-linked. This can lead to a gradual, slow relaxation of the deformation, i.e. the curls drop out.
  • a further negative side-effect of permanently waved hair is often damage to the hair structure, since both the hair interior and the surface of the hair become more hydrophilic due to the combination of reduction and oxidation step. For this reason, high humidity, frequent hair washing, and also combing and brushing can lead to a reduction of the wave effect on the damaged hair.
  • New permanent waving compositions and permanent waving methods are still sought, with which all of these known disadvantages can be avoided.
  • the object was therefore to find new compositions and methods for the permanent deformation of keratinous fibers, which have an intensified, long-lasting waving effect and at the same time nourish the hair to the greatest extent possible.
  • the present invention provides a cosmetic composition for permanently changing the shape of keratinous fibers, comprising,
  • kit-of-parts for permanently changing the shape of keratinous fibers comprising, packaged separately from one another, a container (A) containing a permanent waving agent (a) , and a container (B) containing a fixing agent (b) , wherein the permanent waving agent (a) in container (A) comprises one or more keratin-reducing compounds, one or more cationic emulsifiers, and one or more alkalizing agents, and the fixing agent in container (B) comprises one or more oxidizing compounds, one or more oil components, and one or more anionic surfactants.
  • the permanent waving agent (a) comprises one or more keratin-reducing compounds, one or more cationic emulsifiers, and one or more alkalizing agents
  • the fixing agent (b) comprises one or more oxidizing compounds, one or more oil components, and one or more anionic surfactants.
  • kits-of-parts and/or the method for permanently changing the shape of keratinous fibers to improve the combability of human hair treated thereby are also provided.
  • keratinous fibers As used in the present specification and in the appended claims, the term “keratinous fibers, ” “keratin fibers, ” and similar terminology are understood to mean furs, wool, feathers, and particularly human hair. Although the cosmetic compositions according to the present specification are primarily suitable for changing the shape of keratinous fibers, in principle nothing prevents their use in other fields.
  • cosmetic refers to a beautifying substance or preparation which preserves, restores, bestows, simulates, or enhances the appearance of bodily beauty or appears to enhance the beauty or youthfulness, specifically as it relates to the appearance of tissue or skin, in particular the shape of human hair.
  • the present invention is directed to a cosmetic composition for permanently changing the shape of keratinous fibers, comprising,
  • the inventor has surprisingly found that, compared to conventional permanent waving products, the combined use of the cationic emulsifiers in the permanent waving agent and the anionic surfactants in the fixing agent according to the present cosmetic composition allows to exert a remarkable repairing and nourishment of the damaged hairs with the aid of oil component also contained in the fixing agent.
  • the permanent waving agent comprising one or more keratin-reducing compounds, one or more cationic emulsifiers, and one or more alkalizing agents.
  • Suitable keratin-reducing agents are thioglycolic acid, thiolactic acid, thiomalic acid, cysteine, cysteamine, cysteine, 2-mercaptoethanesulfonic acid and/or also the physiologically acceptable salts of these acids.
  • a physiologically acceptable salt is understood to mean a salt of the aforementioned compounds, which have been converted into their ionic form and which has a physiologically acceptable counter ion.
  • a physiologically acceptable salt can be applied to the hair and to the skin without any toxicological disadvantages, i.e. a physiologically acceptable salt of an aforementioned reducing agent is not poisonous and is not more sensitising than a reducing agent itself.
  • Physiologically acceptable salts are, for example, the alkali metals results, the alkaline earth metals salts, or the ammonium salts of the aforementioned acids, such as ammonium thioglycolate, ammonium thiolactate and diammonium dithioglycolate.
  • Thiolactic acid is understood to mean D-thiolactic acid, L-thiolactic acid and/or a mixture thereof.
  • Thiolactic acid is alternatively also referred to as 2-mercaptopropionic acid and has the CAS number 79-42-5.
  • Suitable physiologically acceptable salts are, for example, the sodium salt, the potassium salt, or the ammonium salt of thiolactic acid.
  • Ammonium thioglycolate is the ammonium salt of thioglycolic acid (i.e. the ammonium salt of 2-sulfanylacetic acid) (formula I)
  • Thiolactic acid is understood to mean D-thiolactic acid, L-thiolactic acid and/or a mixture thereof.
  • Thiolactic acid is alternatively also referred to as 2-mercaptopropionic acid and has the CAS number 79-42-5.
  • Suitable physiologically acceptable salts are, for example, the sodium salt, the potassium salt, or the ammonium salt of thiolactic acid.
  • Diammonium dithioglycolate is the diammonium salt of dithioglycolic acid (i.e. the diammonium salt of 2-sulfanylacetic acid) (formula II)
  • Ammonium thiolactate is the ammonium salt of thiolactic acid (i.e. the ammonium salt of 2-sulfanylpropionic acid) (formula III) .
  • Thiomalic acid is a compound of formula (IV) .
  • Thiomalic acid is understood to mean D-thiomalic acid, L-thiomalic acid and/or a mixture thereof.
  • Suitable physiologically acceptable salts are the sodium salt, the potassium salt, or the ammonium salt of thiomalic acid.
  • Cysteine is understood to mean D-cysteine, L-cysteine and/or a mixture thereof. Cysteine is alternatively also referred to as 2-amino-3-mercaptopropanoic acid or 2-amino-3-sulfanylpropanoic acid.
  • Suitable physiologically acceptable salts are the sodium salt, the potassium salt, or the ammonium salt of cysteine.
  • Cysteamine is alternatively also referred to as 2-aminoethanol and has the formula HS-CH 2 -CH 2 -NH 2 .
  • Suitable physiologically acceptable salts of cysteamine are, for example, the hydrochloride, the hydrobromide, the sulphate, or the hemisulfate.
  • Cystine is a disulphide produced by oxidation of two molecules of the amino acid cysteine. Cystine has the CAS number 56-89-3.
  • the definition of cystine also includes the (D, D) , (D, L) , (L, D) and (L, L) isomers.
  • Suitable physiologically acceptable salts are the sodium salt, the potassium salt, or the ammonium salt of cystine.
  • 2-Mercaptoethanesulfonic acid is a compound of formula (V) .
  • Suitable physiologically acceptable salts are, for example, the sodium salt, the potassium salt, or the ammonium salt of 2-mercaptoethanesulfonic acid.
  • keratin-reducing compounds are commercially obtainable from various providers (Sigma Aldrich, Merck, Fluka, Sasaki Chemical or BASF etc. ) .
  • the permanent waving agent (a) contains the keratin-reducing compound (s) preferably in certain quantity ranges which ensure a satisfactory deformation, without damaging the keratinous fibers too heavily.
  • the permanent waving agent (a) particularly preferably contains one or more keratin-reducing compounds in an amount of 0.1%to 40%by weight, preferably 2%to 30%by weight, more preferably 5%to 20%by weight, and in particular 7%to 15%by weight based on the total weight of the permanent waving agent.
  • Cationic emulsifiers suitable for use in the cosmetic composition of the present invention may include a wide variety of cationic emulsifiers and include, but not limited to: mono-long alkyl quaternized ammonium salt, di-long alkyl quaternized ammonium salt, mono-long alkyl amidoamine salt, and combination thereof.
  • the monoalkyl quaternized ammonium salt cationic emulsifiers useful herein are those having one long alkyl chain which has from 12 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably from 16 to 24 carbon atoms, more preferably C18-22 alkyl group.
  • the remaining groups attached to nitrogen are independently selected from an alkyl group of from 1 to about 4 carbon atoms or an alkoxy, polyoxyalkylene, alkylamido, hydroxyalkyl, aryl or alkylaryl group having up to about 4 carbon atoms.
  • Mono-long alkyl quaternized ammonium salts useful herein are those having the formula (VI) :
  • R 1 , R 2 , R 3 and R 4 is selected from an alkyl group of from 12 to 30 carbon atoms or an aromatic, alkoxy, polyoxyalkylene, alkylamido, hydroxyalkyl, aryl or alkylaryl group having up to about 30 carbon atoms; the remainder of R 1 , R 2 , R 3 and R 4 are independently selected from an alkyl group of from 1 to about 4 carbon atoms or an alkoxy, polyoxyalkylene, alkylamido, hydroxyalkyl, aryl or alkylaryl group having up to about 4 carbon atoms; and X - is a salt-forming anion such as those selected from halogen, (e.g.
  • alkyl groups can contain, in addition to carbon and hydrogen atoms, ether and/or ester linkages, and other groups such as amino groups.
  • the longer chain alkyl groups e.g., those of about 12 carbons, or higher, can be saturated or unsaturated.
  • one of R 1 , R 2 , R 3 and R 4 is selected from an alkyl group of from 12 to 30 carbon atoms, more preferably from 16 to 24 carbon atoms, still more preferably from 18 to 22 carbon atoms, even more preferably 22 carbon atoms; the remainder of R 1 , R 2 , R 3 and R 4 are independently selected from CH 3 , C 2 H 5 , C 2 H 4 OH, and mixtures thereof; and X is selected from the group consisting of Cl, Br, CH 3 OSO 3 , C 2 H 5 OSO 3 , and mixtures thereof.
  • Nonlimiting examples of such mono-long alkyl quaternized ammonium salt cationic emulsifiers include: behenyl trimethyl ammonium salt; stearyl trimethyl ammonium salt; cetyl trimethyl ammonium salt; and hydrogenated tallow alkyl trimethyl ammonium salt.
  • Mono-long alkyl amines are also suitable as cationic emulsifier.
  • Primary, secondary, and tertiary fatty amines are useful. Particularly useful are tertiary amido amines having an alkyl group of from about 12 to about 22 carbons.
  • Exemplary tertiary amido amines include: stearamidopropyldimethylamine, stearamidopropyldiethylamine, stearamidoethyldiethylamine, stearamidoethyldimethylamine, palmitamidopropyldimethylamine, palmitamidopropyldiethylamine, palmitamidoethyldiethylamine, palmitamidoethyldimethylamine, behenamidopropyldimethylamine, behenamidopropyldiethylamine, behenamidoethyldiethylamine, behenamidoethyldimethylamine, arachidamidopropyldimethylamine, arachidamidopropyldiethylamine, arachidamidoethyldiethylamine, arachidamidoethyldimethylamine, diethylaminoethylstear
  • dialkyl quaternized ammonium salt cationic emulsifiers useful herein are those having two long alkyl chains having 12-30 carbon atoms, preferably 16-24 carbon atoms, more preferably 18-22 carbon atoms.
  • the remaining groups attached to nitrogen are independently selected from an alkyl group of from 1 to about 4 carbon atoms or an alkoxy, polyoxyalkylene, alkylamido, hydroxyalkyl, aryl or alkylaryl group having up to about 4 carbon atoms.
  • Di-long alkyl quaternized ammonium salts useful herein are those having the formula (VII) :
  • R 1 , R 2 , R 3 and R 4 is selected from an alkyl group of from 12 to 30 carbon atoms or an aromatic, alkoxy, polyoxyalkylene, alkylamido, hydroxyalkyl, aryl or alkylaryl group having up to about 30 carbon atoms; the remainder of R 1 , R 2 , R 3 and R 4 are independently selected from an alkyl group of from 1 to about 4 carbon atoms or an alkoxy, polyoxyalkylene, alkylamido, hydroxyalkyl, aryl or alkylaryl group having up to about 4 carbon atoms; and X - is a salt-forming anion such as those selected from halogen, (e.g.
  • alkyl groups can contain, in addition to carbon and hydrogen atoms, ether and/or ester linkages, and other groups such as amino groups.
  • the longer chain alkyl groups e.g., those of about 12 carbons, or higher, can be saturated or unsaturated.
  • one of R 1 , R 2 , R 3 and R 4 is selected from an alkyl group of from 12 to 30 carbon atoms, more preferably from 16 to 24 carbon atoms, still more preferably from 18 to 22 carbon atoms, even more preferably 22 carbon atoms; the remainder of R 1 , R 2 , R 3 and R 4 are independently selected from CH 3 , C 2 H 5 , C 2 H 4 OH, and mixtures thereof; and X is selected from the group consisting of Cl, Br, CH 3 OSO 3 , C 2 H 5 OSO 3 , and mixtures thereof.
  • dialkyl quaternized ammonium salt cationic emulsifiers include, for example, dialkyl (14-18) dimethyl ammonium chloride, ditallow alkyl dimethyl ammonium chloride, dihydrogenated tallow alkyl dimethyl ammonium chloride, distearyl dimethyl ammonium chloride, and dicetyl dimethyl ammonium chloride.
  • dialkyl quaternized ammonium salt cationic emulsifiers also include, for example, asymmetric dialkyl quaternized ammonium salt cationic emulsifiers.
  • cationic emulsifiers in INCI name are following:
  • the cationic emulsifiers are selected from the group consisting of, in INCI name, Distearoylethyl Hydroxyethylmonium Methosulfate, Soytrimonium Chloride, Octacosatrimonium Chloride, Ceteartrimonium Chloride, Tallowtrimonium Chloride, Dodecylhexadecyltrimonium Chloride, Octyldodecyltrimonium Chloride, Cocotrimonium Chloride, Steartrimonium Chloride, Laurtrimonium Chloride, Cetrimonium Chloride, Dodecylbenzyltrimonium Chloride, Di-C12-15 Alkyl Dimonium Chloride, C12-18 Dialkyldimonium Chloride, Di-C12-18 Alkyl Dimonium Chloride, Dicapryl/Dicaprylyl Dimonium Chloride, Didecyldimonium Chloride, Dicetyldimonium Chlor
  • the cationic emulsifiers are selected from the group consisting of Behentrimonium Chloride, Cetrimonium Chloride, Distearoylethyl Hydroxyethylmonium Methosulfate, and combination thereof.
  • the permanent waving agent (a) contains the cationic emulsifier (s) preferably in certain quantity ranges which ensure a satisfactory effect of hair combability combined with other components especially the anionic surfactants after treating.
  • the permanent waving agent (a) particularly preferably contains one or more cationic emulsifiers in an amount of 0.5%to 10%by weight, preferably 1%to 5%by weight by weight based on the total weight of the permanent waving agent.
  • Suitable alkalizing agent useful in the present invention are basic amino acid, inorganic alkali metal salt, ammonia and alkanolamine, and combination thereof.
  • basic amino acids such as arginine, lysine, ornithine and/or histidine can be used in the present invention.
  • alkalizing agents are inorganic alkalizing agents from the group composed of sodium hydroxide, potassium hydroxide, sodium carbonate, sodium hydrogen carbonate, potassium carbonate, potassium hydrogen carbonate and/or ammonium carbonate.
  • alkanolamine examples include 2-aminoethan-1-ol (monoethanolamine) , 3-aminopropan-1-ol, 4-aminobutan-1-ol, 5-aminopentan-1-ol, 1-aminopropan-2-ol, 1-aminobutan-2-ol, 1-aminopentan-2-ol, 1-aminopentan-3-ol, 1-aminopentan-4-ol, 3-amino-2-methylpropan-1-ol, 1-amino-2-methylpropan-2-ol, 3-aminopropan-1, 2-diol and/or 2-amino-2-methylpropan-1, 3-diol.
  • the alkalizing agent is 2-aminoethan-1-ol (monoethanolamine) .
  • the permanent waving agent (a) contains the alkalizing agent (s) preferably in certain quantity ranges which ensure a satisfactory pH value of the agent.
  • the permanent waving agent (a) particularly preferably contains one or more alkalizing agents in an amount of 0.1%to 20%by weight, preferably 0.5%to 10%by weight, more preferably 1 to 5%by weight based on the total weight of the permanent waving agent.
  • the fixing agent (b) comprises one or more oxidizing compounds, one or more oil components, and one or more anionic surfactants.
  • the disulphide bonds in the deformed keratin are re-linked by the oxidizing compounds, and the deformed strands are fixed in their new shape in this way. It has been surprisingly found that the addition of anionic surfactant in the fixing agent improves the softness, smoothness and combability for both dry and wet hairs together with the oil component.
  • Preferred oxidizing agents for re-fixing the keratin structure are water-soluble peroxygen oxidizing agents.
  • Water-soluble as defined herein means that in standard condition at least 0.1 g, preferably 1 g, more preferably 10 g of said oxidizing agent can be dissolved in 1 liter of deionized water.
  • any oxidizing agent known in the art may be utilized in the present invention.
  • Preferred water-soluble oxidizing agents are inorganic peroxygen materials capable of yielding hydrogen peroxide in an aqueous solution.
  • Water-soluble peroxygen oxidizing agents are well known in the art and include hydrogen peroxide, inorganic alkali metal peroxides such as sodium periodate and sodium peroxide and organic peroxides such as urea peroxide, melamine peroxide, and inorganic perhydrate salt bleaching compounds, such as the alkali metal salts of perborates, percarbonates, perphosphates, persilicates, persulphates and the like. These inorganic perhydrate salts may be incorporated as monohydrates, tetrahydrates. etc.
  • Alkyl and aryl peroxides, and or peroxidases may also be used. Mixtures of two or more such oxidizing agents can also be used if desired.
  • the oxidizing agents may be provided in aqueous solution or as a powder which is dissolved prior to use. Preferred for use in the compositions according to the present invention are hydrogen peroxide, percarbonate, persulphates, and combinations thereof.
  • the oxidizing agent is present in an amount of 1%to 10%by weight, preferably 1%to 5%by weight, based on the total weight of the fixing agent.
  • the fixing agent system also comprises an anionic surfactant or a mixture of anionic surfactants.
  • Anionic surfactants are known by the one skilled in the art.
  • the anionic surfactant includes but not limited to alkylether sulfate, linear alkylbenzene sulfonates, alpha olefin sulfonates, paraffin sulfonates, alkyl ester sulfonates, alkyl sulfonates, alkyl alkoxy carboxylates, monoalkyl phosphates, dialkyl phosphates, sarcosinates, isethionates, and taurates.
  • the alkyl ether sulfate surfactant comprises one or more compounds according to structure (VIII) :
  • R 5 is (C8-C18) alkyl or (C8-C18) alkenyl, more typically (C10-C14) alkyl, m is 2, 3, or 4, n is an integer of from 1 to about 7, more typically from 1 to 8, even more typically from 1 to 6, X+ is a cation.
  • R 5 is a branched (C8-C18) alkyl group or a (C8-C18) alkenyl group, more typically a branched (C10-C16) alkyl group, such as tridecyl.
  • Suitable branched alkyl groups include methyldecyl groups, methylundecyl groups, methyldodecyl groups, ethyldecyl groups, ethylundecyl groups, and ethyldodecyl groups, such as for example, 1-methyldecyl, 1-methylundecyl, 1-methyldodecyl, 1-ethyldecyl, 1-ethylundecyl, and 1-ethyldodecyl.
  • m is 2 or 3, more typically 2.
  • n is 1, 2, 3, or 4.
  • modifying an alkyl or alkenyl group with the suffix "eth” generally indicates the addition of one or more ethylene oxide units, for example, trideceth refers to an ethoxylated tridecyl group, and the suffix "-n" , wherein n is an integer, indicates the number of such ethylene oxide units per group, for example "trideceth-3" indicates an ethoxylated tridecyl group with 3 ethylene oxide units per tridecyl group.
  • the alkyl ether sulfate surfactant comprises one or more compounds selected from sodium laureth sulfates, potassium laureth sulfates, magnesium laureth sulfates, ammonium laureth sulfates, monoethanolamine laureth sulfates, diethanolamine laureth sulfates, triethanolamine laureth sulfates, sodium trideceth sulfates, magnesium trideceth sulfates, ammonium trideceth sulfates, monoethanolamine trideceth sulfates, diethanolamine trideceth sulfates, and triethanolamine trideceth sulfates.
  • the alkyl ether sulfate surfactant comprises one or more branched alkylether sulfate selected from sodium trideceth-1 sulfate, potassium trideceth-1 sulfate, and ammonium trideceth-1 sulfate, sodium trideceth-2 sulfate, potassium trideceth-2 sulfate, and ammonium trideceth-2 sulfate, sodium trideceth-3 sulfate, potassium trideceth-3 sulfate, and ammonium trideceth-3 sulfate, sodium trideceth-4 sulfate, potassium trideceth-4 sulfate, and ammonium trideceth-4 sulfate.
  • the alkyl sulfate surfactant comprises one or more compounds according to structure (IV) :
  • R 2 is (C8-C18) alkyl or (C8-C18) alkenyl
  • X + is a cation
  • R 2 is dodecyl, tridecyl, or oleyl.
  • the alkyl sulfate surfactant comprises one or more compounds selected from sodium lauryl sulfate, potassium lauryl sulfate, magnesium lauryl sulfate, ammonium lauryl sulfate, monoethanolamine lauryl sulfate, diethanolamine lauryl sulfate, triethanolamine lauryl sulfate, sodium tridecyl sulfate, potassium tridecyl sulfate, magnesium tridecyl sulfate, ammonium tridecyl sulfate, monoethanolamine tridecyl sulfate, diethanolamine tridecyl sulfate, triethanolamine tridecyl sulfate, sodium oleyl sulfate, potassium oleyl sulfate, magnesium oleyl sulfate, ammonium oleyl sulfate, monoethanolamine oleyl sulfate, diethanolamine oley
  • anionic surfactants that can be used, alone or combined with the above sulfates, include: linear alkylbenzene sulfonates, alpha olefin sulfonates, paraffin sulfonates, alkyl ester sulfonates, alkyl sulfonates, alkyl alkoxy carboxylates, monoalkyl phosphates, dialkyl phosphates, sarcosinates, isethionates, and taurates.
  • anionic surfactants that can be used include: ammonium lauryl sulfate, ammonium laureth sulfate, triethanolamine laureth sulfate, monoethanolamine lauryl sulfate, monoethanolamine laureth sulfate, diethanolamine lauryl sulfate, diethanolamine laureth sulfate, lauric monoglyceride sodium sulfate, sodium lauryl sulfate, sodium laureth sulfate, potassium lauryl sulfate, potassium lauryl phosphate, potassium laureth sulfate, sodium trideceth sulfate, sodium tridecyl sulfate, ammonium trideceth sulfate, ammonium tridecyl sulfate, sodium cocoyl isethionate, disodium laureth sulfosuccinate, sodium methyl oleoyl taurate, sodium laureth carboxylate
  • any anionic surfactant is typically sodium but may alternatively be potassium, lithium, calcium, magnesium, ammonium, or an alkyl ammonium having up to 6 aliphatic carbon atoms including isopropylammonium, monoethanolammonium, diethanolammonium, and triethanolammonium. Ammonium and ethanolammonium salts are generally more soluble that the sodium salts. Mixtures of the above cations may be used.
  • the anionic surfactant is selected from the group consisting of sodium laureth sulfate, potassium lauryl phosphate, sodium lauryl sarcosinate, and combination thereof.
  • the amount of anionic surfactant in the fixing agent can be typically of from 0.1%to 20%by weight, preferably from 0.1%to 10%by weight, based on the total weight of the fixing agent.
  • the agent (b) according to the invention can additionally contain at least one oil component.
  • Oil components that are suitable in accordance with the invention are, in principle, all oils and lipid substances and mixtures thereof with solid paraffins and waxes. Oil components of which the solubility in water at 20°C. is less than 1%by weight, in particular less than 0.1%by weight, are preferred.
  • the melt requirement of the individual oil or fat components lies preferably below approximately 40°C. Oil components which are liquid at room temperature, i.e. below 25°C., can be particularly preferred in accordance with the invention. With use of a number of oil and fat components and optionally solid paraffins and waxes, however, it is generally also sufficient when the mixture of the oil and fat components and optionally paraffins and waxes meets these conditions.
  • oil components include but not limited to vegetable oils, liquid paraffin oils, synthetic hydrocarbons, di-n-alkylethers having a total of between 12 and 36 C atoms, fatty acids and fatty acid esters, dicarboxylic acid esters, silicone oils, dialkyl carbonates, and mixture thereof.
  • a preferred group of oil components is constituted by vegetable oils.
  • vegetable oils examples include apricot kernel oil, avocado oil, sunflower oil, olive oil, soybean oil, rapeseed oil, almond oil, jojoba oil, orange oil, wheat germ oil, peach kernel oil and the liquid components of coconut oil.
  • Other triglyceride oils are also suitable, however, such as the liquid components of beef tallow and synthetic triglyceride oils.
  • a further particularly preferred group of oil components that can be used in accordance with the invention is constituted by liquid paraffin oils and synthetic hydrocarbons and also di-n-alkylethers having a total of between 12 and 36 C atoms, in particular 12 to 24 C atoms, such as di-n-octylethers, di-n-decylethers, di-n-nonylethers, di-n-undecylethers, di-n-dodecylethers, n-hexyl-n-octylethers, n-octyl-n-decylethers, n-decyl-n-undecylethers, n-undecyl-n-dodecylethers and n-hexyl-n-undecylethers and di-tert-butylethers, di-iso-pentylethers, di-3-ethyldecylether
  • Oil components that can be used in the agent (b) in accordance with the invention are also fatty acids and fatty acid esters.
  • the monoesters of fatty acids with alcohols having 2 to 24 C atoms are preferred.
  • This substance group is constituted by the products of esterification of fatty acids having 8 to 24 C atoms, such as caproic acid, caprylic acid, 2-ethylhexanoic acid, capric acid, lauric acid, isotridecanoic acid, myristic acid, palmitic add, palmitoleic acid, stearic acid, isostearic acid, oleic acid, elaidic acid, petroselic acid, linoleic acid, linolenic acid, elaeostearic acid, arachic acid, gadoleic acid, behenic acid and erucic acid and technical mixtures thereof, which occur for example in the event of the pressure-splitting of natural fats and oils, in the event of reduction of
  • Isopropyl myristate, isononanoic acid C16-C18 alkyl ester stearic acid 2-ethylhexyl ester cetyl oleate, glycerol tricaprylate, coconut fatty alcohol caprinate/caprylate and n-butyl stearate are particularly preferred in accordance with the invention.
  • suitable examples are isopropyl laurate, isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, isopropyl behenate, isopropyl sterate, isopropyl oleate, isopropyl linoleate, isopropyl isostearate, isopropyl arachidate, isobutyl myristate, isobutyl laurate, isobutyl palmitate, isobutyl sterate, isobutyl oleate, isobutyl linoleate, isobutyl behenate, ethyl laurate, ethyl myristate, ethyl palmitate, ethyl stearate, ethyl oleate, ethyl behenate, ethyl oleate, ethyl linoleate, ethyl ricinoleate, butyl laur
  • Dicarboxylic acid esters such as di-n-butyl adipate, di- (2-ethylhexyl) adipate, di- (2-ethylhexyl) succinate and di-isotridecylvestat, as well as diol esters such as ethylene glycol dioleate, ethylene glycol diisotridecanoate, propylene glycol di- (2-ethylhexanoate) , propylene glycol diisostearate, propylene glycol dipelargonate, butanediol diisostearate, and neopentyl glycol dicaprylate are also oil components that can be used in accordance with the invention, as well as complex esters such as diacetyl glycerol monostearate.
  • Oil components that can be used with preference in accordance with the invention are, lastly, also silicone oils, in particular dimethylpolysiloxanes, methylphenylpolysiloxanes, cyclic silicones, and also amino-, fatty acid-, alcohol-, polyether-, epoxy-, fluorine-, glycoside-and/or alkyl-modified silicone compounds which can be present in liquid form at room temperature.
  • silicone oils in particular dimethylpolysiloxanes, methylphenylpolysiloxanes, cyclic silicones, and also amino-, fatty acid-, alcohol-, polyether-, epoxy-, fluorine-, glycoside-and/or alkyl-modified silicone compounds which can be present in liquid form at room temperature.
  • silicone oils are the products marketed by Dow Corning under the names of DC 190, DC 200 and DC 1401 and the commercial products DC 344 and DC 345 of Dow Corning, Q2-7224 (from Dow Corning; a stabilized trimethyl silyl amodimethicone) , Dow 929 or 969 emulsion (containing a hydroxyl amino-modified silicone which is also known as Amodimethicone) , SM-2059 (from General Electric) , SLM-55067 (from Wacker) and Quat 3270 and 3272 (from Evonik, diquaternary polydimethyl siloxanes) .
  • Dow Corning under the names of DC 190, DC 200 and DC 1401 and the commercial products DC 344 and DC 345 of Dow Corning, Q2-7224 (from Dow Corning; a stabilized trimethyl silyl amodimethicone) , Dow 929 or 969 emulsion (containing a hydroxyl amino-modified silicone which is also known as Amodimethicone)
  • amino-modified silicones are used in particular as oil components, such as from Dow 929 or 969 emulsion.
  • Oil components that can be used in accordance with the invention are lastly also dialkyl carbonates.
  • Dioctyl carbonates, in particular the di-2-ethylhexyl carbonate, are preferred oil components within the scope of the present invention.
  • the permanent waving agent further comprises oil components selected from fatty acid esters and silicone oils.
  • the permanent waving agent further comprises oil components selected from isopropyl myristate, cetyl palmitate, amodimethicone, and combination thereof.
  • the fixing agent further comprises silicone oils, in particular amodimethicone as oil component.
  • the agent (a) may also contain the oil components.
  • the amount of the oil components in the fixing agent (b) can be typically of from 0.1%to 20%by weight, preferably from 1%to 10%by weight, based on the total weight of the fixing agent. If present in agent (a) , the amount of the oil components can be typically of from 0.1%to 20%by weight, preferably from 1%to 10%by weight, based on the total weight of the permanent waving agent.
  • composition may optionally comprise the following additional components.
  • the agents (a) and/or (b) of the cosmetic composition according to the invention may contain at least one conditioning active substance including but not limited to cationic polymer and amphoteric polymer.
  • Cationic polymers are preferred conditioning active substances. These are generally polymers which contain a quaternary nitrogen atom, for example in the form of an ammonium group.
  • Preferred cationic polymers are, for example, quaternized cellulose derivatives, polysiloxanes with quaternary groups, polymers of dimethyl diallyl ammonium salts and copolymers thereof with esters and amides of acrylic acid and methacrylic acid, copolymers of vinyl pyrrolidone with quaternized derivatives of dialkylamino acrylate and methacrylate, vinyl pyrrolidone-vinyl imidazolinium methochloride copolymers, quaternized polyvinyl alcohol, and the polymers known under the names of Polyquaternium with quaternary nitrogen atoms in the main polymer chain.
  • cationic polymers the following compounds may be mentioned in particular: Polyquaternium-1, Polyquaternium-2, Polyquaternium-4, Polyquaternium-5, Polyquaternium-6, Polyquaternium-7, Polyquaternium-8, Polyquaternium-9, Polyquaternium-10, Polyquaternium-11, Polyquaternium-12, Polyquaternium-13, Polyquaternium-14, Polyquaternium-15, Polyquaternium-16, Polyquaternium-17, Polyquaternium-18, Polyquaternium-19, Polyquaternium-20, Polyquaternium-22, Polyquaternium-24, Polyquaternium-27, Polyquaternium-28, Polyquaternium-29, Polyquaternium-30, Polyquaternium-31, Polyquaternium-32, Polyquaternium-33, Polyquaternium-34, Polyquaternium-35, Polyquaternium-36, Polyquaternium-37, Polyquaternium-39, Polyquaternium-43, Polyquaternium-44, Polyquaternium-45, Polyquaternium-46,
  • amphopolymers are also suitable as conditioning active substances.
  • the encompassing term amphopolymers includes amphoteric polymers, i.e. polymers which contain both free amino groups and free -COOH or SO 3 H groups in the molecule and are capable of forming inner salts, zwitterionic polymers which contain quaternary ammonium groups and -COO - or -SO 3 - groups, and polymers which contain -COOH or SO 3 H groups and quaternary ammonium groups.
  • amphopolymer that can be used in accordance with the invention is the acrylic resin obtainable under the name which constitutes a copolymer of tert.
  • Amphopolymers that are likewise preferred are composed of unsaturated carboxylic acids (for example acrylic and methacrylic acid) , cationically derived unsaturated carboxylic acids (for example acrylamidopropyl trimethylammonium chloride) and optionally further ionic or non-ionogenic monomers.
  • Terpolymers of acrylic acid, methacrylate and methacrylamidopropyltrimonium chloride as are commercially obtainable under the name N.
  • the cationic or amphoteric polymers may be contained in the agent (s) preferably in quantities of from 0.1 to 5%by weight, preferably from 0.1 to 3%by weight based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition.
  • Suitable examples of chelating agent can be used in the present invention to stabilize the agent (a) includes but not limited to acetyl trihexyl citrate, aminotrimethylene phosphonic acid, beta-alanine diacetic acid, bismuth citrate, calcium disodium EDTA, citric acid, cyclohexanediamine tetraacetic acid, diammonium citrate, dibutyl oxalate, diethyl oxalate, diisobutyl oxalate, diisopropyl oxalate, dilithium oxalate, dimethyl oxalate, dipotassium edta, dipotassium oxalate, dipropyl oxalate, disodium EDTA, disodium EDTA-copper, disodium pyrophosphate, EDTA, etidronic acid, HEDTA, methyl cyclodextrin, oxalic acid, pentapot
  • compositions of the present invention may also include one or more thickeners in agents (a) and/or (b) .
  • Suitable thickeners of the present invention are selected from the group consisting of stearyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, cetearyl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, arachidic alcohol, behenyl alcohol, stearic acid, palmitic acid, the polyethylene glycol ether of stearyl alcohol having an average of 1 to 5 ethylene oxide units, the polyethylene glycol ether of cetyl alcohol having an average of 1 to 5 ethylene oxide units, emulsifying waxes and mixtures thereof.
  • Non-limiting examples include PROLIPID 141 (glyceryl stearate, behenyl alcohol, palmitic acid, stearic acid, lecithin, lauryl alcohol, myristyl alcohol and cetyl alcohol) and PROLIPID 151 (Glyceryl stearate, cetearyl alcohol, stearic acid, 1-propanamium, 3-amino-N- (2- (hydroxyethyl) -N-N-Dimethyl, N-C (16-18) Acyl Derivatives, Chlorides) from ISP; POLAWAX NF (Emulsifying wax NF) , INCROQUAT BEHENYL TMS (behentrimonium sulfate and cetearyl alcohol) from Croda; and EMULLIUM DELTA (cetyl alcohol, glyceryl stearate, peg-75 stearate, ceteth-20 and steareth-20) from Gattefosse.
  • PROLIPID 141 g
  • Preferred thickeners are selected from the group consisting of stearyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, steareth-2, and mixtures thereof.
  • cetearyl alcohol is preferred as the thickeners in agents (a) and/or (b) .
  • the stabilizer used in the fixing agent (b) are polycarboxylic acids, geminal diphosphonic acids, in particular 1-hydroxyethane-1, 1-diphosphonic acid (HEDP) , amino phosphonic acids such as ethylenediaminetetra (methylenephosphonic acid) (EDTMP) , diethylenetriaminepenta (methylenephosphonic acid) (DTPMP) , phosphonopolycarboxyic acids such as 2-phosphonobutane-1, 2, 4-tricarboxylic acid as well as cyclodextrins, alkali metal stannates (sodium stannate) , alkali metal pyrophosphates (tetrasodium pyrophosphate, disodium pyrophosphate) , alkali metal phosphates (sodium phosphate) , phosphoric acid, , dipicolinic acid (DPA) , salts thereof and derivatives thereof.
  • the stabilizer is selected from HEDP, DPA and
  • pH adjusting agents in agents (a) and/or (b) suitable for the present invention are such as citric acid, sodium citrate, succinic acid, phosphoric acid, sodium hydroxide, sodium carbonate.
  • sodium hydroxide is used to adjust the pH value of the agents.
  • compositions can be formulated into the present compositions, such as solubilizing agents, buffers, colorants/dyes, antiseptics, UV ray protective ingredients, anti-inflammatory agents, moisturizing agents, touch improvers, astringents, and hair growth components or the like.
  • the inventors have found that the cosmetic compositions achieved excellent hair curls, provided softness, smoothness, shine to both wet and dry hair and prevented hair damage from stretching and combing by the combined use of the permanent waving agent containing at least one cationic emulsifier and the fixing agent containing at least one anionic surfactant. It is believed that the static electrical attractive effect achieved thereby renders an improved deposit of the oil component such as silicone oil onto the hair, and in turn repairs and/or nourishes the hair.
  • the oil component such as silicone oil
  • the permanent waving agent of the cosmetic composition preferably has a pH value of from 6.0 to 10.0 and especially preferably from 7.0 to 9.5.
  • the fixing agent of the cosmetic composition preferably has a pH value of from 1.0 to 6.0 and especially preferably from 1.5 to 4.0.
  • the pH values can be easily adjusted by the alkalizing agents as mentioned above by a person skilled in the art.
  • the permanent waving agent of the cosmetic composition preferably has a viscosity at 25°C of about 10 mPa ⁇ s to about 50,000 mPa ⁇ s, preferably from about 100 mPas to about 20,000 mPa ⁇ s, more preferably from about 1000 mPa ⁇ s to about 10,000 mPa ⁇ s.
  • the fixing agent of the cosmetic composition preferably has a viscosity at 25°C of about 1 mPa ⁇ s to about 10,000 mPa ⁇ s, preferably from about 10 mPas to about 5,000 mPa ⁇ s, more preferably from about 10 mPa ⁇ s to about 1,000 mPa ⁇ s.
  • the permanent waving agent and the fixing agent may be sold in dual-or more-component packages; the agents may be in the form of an aqueous solution, or an emulsion, or in thickened water-based form, especially a creme, gel, foam or paste.
  • the present invention provides a kit-of-parts for permanently changing the shape of keratinous fibers, comprising, packaged separately from one another, a container (A) containing a permanent waving agent (a) , and a container (B) containing a fixing agent (b) , wherein the permanent waving agent (a) in container (A) comprises, one or more keratin-reducing compounds, one or more cationic emulsifiers, and one or more alkalizing agents, and the fixing agent in container (B) comprises one or more oxidizing compounds, one or more oil component, and one or more anionic surfactants.
  • the kit-of-parts according to the invention comprises at least two separately packaged containers (A) and (B) , which contain the two agents (a) and (b) .
  • the permanent waving agent (a) is disposed in the container (A) and the fixing agent (b) is disposed in the container (B) .
  • the composition or kit-of-parts can also comprise further agents-for example a third container (C) containing a third agent (c) .
  • This agent can be a conditioning agent or a shampoo matched especially to the method according to the present invention, which can be applied following the agent (a) . It is also conceivable to use the third agent (c) as a pre-treatment agent, which is applied to the keratinous fibers before the application of the agent (a) .
  • Yet another aspect of the present invention is method for permanently changing the shape of keratinous fibers, comprising the following steps in the specified order, A1) applying a permanent waving agent (a) to the keratinous fibers, A2) leaving the permanent waving agent (a) to take effect for a period of from 2 to 60 minutes, A3) rinsing out the permanent waving agent (a) from the keratinous fibers, B1) applying a fixing agent (b) to the keratinous fibers, B2) leaving the fixing agent (b) to take effect for a period of from 2 to 60 minutes, and B3) rinsing out the fixing agent (b) from the keratinous fibers, wherein the permanent waving agent (a) comprises one or more keratin-reducing compounds, one or more cationic emulsifiers, and one or more alkalizing agents, and the fixing agent (b) comprises one or more oxidizing compounds, one or more oil component, and one or more anionic surfactants.
  • the keratinous fibers it is indeed possible, but not necessary, for the keratinous fibers to be dried following the rinsing off of the agent (a) (i.e. after step A3) ) .
  • the oxidizing agent-containing fixing agent (c) is then applied to the keratinous fibers (step B1) ) .
  • the fixing agent is also left to take effect on the keratinous fibers (step B2) ) and is then rinsed off again (step B3)) .
  • the agent (b) can also be rinsed off for example either using only mains water or with the aid of a shampoo or conditioner.
  • the agents (a) and (b) are each left to take effect for a period of from 2 to 60 minutes in steps A2 and B2) respectively.
  • the exposure time for the agent (a) is preferably 5 to 15 min, more preferably 10 to 45 min, and particularly preferably 15 to 40 min.
  • the exposure time for the agent (b) is preferably 5 to 50 min, more preferably 10 to 45 min, and particularly preferably 15 to 40 min.
  • the treated hair can be well repaired and nourished.
  • This system can also provide excellent caring performance during perm process and good curling effects.
  • the combability of human hair was significantly improved, and the reduction of dry combing force of the thus shape changed/treated human hair, as defined in the “Example” part, is larger than 20%, preferably larger than 30%, and more preferably larger than 35%.
  • Behentrimonium Chloride is commercially available from Clariant under the trade name of GENAMIN KDMP.
  • Cetrimonium Chloride is commercially available from BASF under the trade name of Dehyquart A CA.
  • Distearoylethyl Hydroxyethylmonium Methosulfate is commercially available from BASF under the trade name of Dehyquart F 75.
  • Stearamidopropyl Dimethylamine is commercially available from Evonik under the trade name of Tego Amid S 18.
  • Guar Hydroxypropyltrimonium Chloride is commercially available from Ashland under the trade name of N-Hance 3196 Cationic Guar.
  • Polyquaternium-6 is commercially available from Lubrizol Advanced Materials under the trade name of Merquat 100.
  • Polyquaternium-10 is commercially available from Dow Chemical Company under the trade name of UCARE Polymer JR 400.
  • Ceteareth-12 is commercially available from BASF under the trade name of Eumulgin B1.
  • Ceteareth-30 is commercially available from BASF under the trade name of Eumulgin B3.
  • Isopropyl Myristate is commercially available from BASF under the trade name of IPM.
  • Cetyl Palmitate is commercially available from BASF under the trade name of Cutina CP.
  • Cetearyl Alcohol is commercially available from BASF under the trade name of Lanette O.
  • Amodimethicone is commercially available from Dow Corning under the trade name of DOW CORNING 969 emulsion.
  • Pentasodium Pentetate is commercially available from Nagase Chemtex Corporation under the trade name of Clewat DP80.
  • Ethanolamine is commercially available from Toyotsu Chemiplas Corporation.
  • Diammonium Dithiodiglycolate is commercially available from Sasaki Chemical Co. Ltd.
  • Ammonium Thioglycolate is commercially available from BASF under the trade name of Ammonium Thioglycolate 60%.
  • Sodium Hydroxide is commercially available from Merck.
  • HEDP is in 60%aqueous solution commercially available from Solvay under the trade name of Briquest ADPA-60A.
  • DPA is commercially available from Merck under the trade name of Dipicolinsaure.
  • Hydrogen Peroxide is cosmetic grade 50%H 2 O from Evonik.
  • Sodium Laureth Sulfate is in 27%aqueous solution commercially available from BASF under the trade name of Texapon NSO UP.
  • Sodium Lauryl Sarcosinate is commercially available from Lubrizol Advanced Materials under the trade name of Chemoryl APLS-30.
  • fatty acid ester, thickener, distearoylethyl hydroxyethylmonium methosulfate, stearamidopropyl dimethylamine, silicone oil and nonionic emulsifier were included in Group 1.
  • Cationic polymer, alkyl trimethyl ammonium salt, chelating agent were included in Group 2.
  • perfume, ethanolamine, keratin-reducing agent and water were included. All materials in Groups 1 and 2 were well dissolved by heating to 70 to 80°C. Afterwards, the mixture of Group 1 was added into the mixture of Group 2 at 70 to 80°C with stirring. After homogenization, an emulsion was obtained. Then the materials of Group 3 were added into the mixture of Groups 1 and 2 at 45°C one by one with slow stirring until homogenization was achieved.
  • fixing agent (b) For the preparation of fixing agent (b) , stabilizer, pH adjustment agent and deionized water were included in Group 1.
  • the anionic surfactant or cationic emulsifier (if present) and silicone oil were included in Group 2.
  • the oxidizing agent was contained. Materials in Group 1 were well dissolved by heating to 40 to 50°C if necessary. Afterwards, the materials in Group 2 were added in to Group 1 with slow stirring. After homogenization, the materials of Group 3 were added with slow stirring until homogenization.
  • One hair strand was used for each example.
  • the hair strand was stored at 25 ⁇ 1 °C and 54 ⁇ 0.5 %relative humidity for 24 hours.
  • the permanent waving agent was applied onto hair strand as follows.
  • the treated hair strand was stored at 24 °C and 54%relative humidity for 24 hours before testing.
  • the combing force of treated hair was collected by Comb Tester JC 45B. Hair strands were combed 15 times and the average combing force (F1) was collected in unit as gram.
  • the human hairs treated by all examples according to the present invention (Ex. 1 to Ex. 5) exhibited excellent softness, smoothness and combability. As shown in Table 1, the reduction of dry combing force of hairs achieved by the inventive examples were significantly larger than that achieved by those containing cationic emulsifier in both agents (Ex. 6) and containing non-ionic emulsifier instead of cationic emulsifier in agent (a) (Ex. 7) .

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Abstract

L'invention concerne une composition cosmétique pour modifier de façon permanente la forme des fibres kératiniques, comprenant : (a) un agent d'ondulation permanente, comprenant un ou plusieurs composés de réduction de kératine, un ou plusieurs émulsifiants cationiques et un ou plusieurs agents alcalinisants et (b) un agent de fixation, comprenant un ou plusieurs composés oxydants, un ou plusieurs constituants huileux et un ou plusieurs tensioactifs anioniques. La composition cosmétique, le kit de pièces et/ou le procédé de modification permanente de la forme des fibres kératiniques améliorent la peignabilité des cheveux humains traités.
PCT/CN2017/114592 2017-12-05 2017-12-05 Composition cosmétique pour modifier de façon permanente la forme des fibres kératiniques WO2019109243A1 (fr)

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Cited By (1)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
CN114502616A (zh) * 2019-10-17 2022-05-13 欧莱雅 用于赋予角质纤维持久成型的组合物、系统和方法

Citations (3)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
US6103223A (en) * 1996-06-08 2000-08-15 Wella Aktiengesellschaft Process and means for permanent hair-styling
US20030084518A1 (en) * 2001-09-04 2003-05-08 Dieter Schonert Method for simultaneously dyeing and permanent shaping of hair
US20090183748A1 (en) * 2007-07-30 2009-07-23 Kpss-Kao Professional Salon Services Gmbh Process for Colouring and Permanent Shaping Keratin Fibres

Patent Citations (3)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
US6103223A (en) * 1996-06-08 2000-08-15 Wella Aktiengesellschaft Process and means for permanent hair-styling
US20030084518A1 (en) * 2001-09-04 2003-05-08 Dieter Schonert Method for simultaneously dyeing and permanent shaping of hair
US20090183748A1 (en) * 2007-07-30 2009-07-23 Kpss-Kao Professional Salon Services Gmbh Process for Colouring and Permanent Shaping Keratin Fibres

Cited By (1)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
CN114502616A (zh) * 2019-10-17 2022-05-13 欧莱雅 用于赋予角质纤维持久成型的组合物、系统和方法

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