WO2019096570A1

WO2019096570A1 - A shampoo composition

Info

Publication number: WO2019096570A1
Application number: PCT/EP2018/079564
Authority: WO
Inventors: Rishita CHATTERJEE; Dolly Himanshu Desai; Manish Gangopadhyay; Nidhi JAGADISH; Godfrey Serrao; Pooja Shankardas SERAI; Shubhalaxmi Madhukar THAOKAR
Original assignee: Unilever N.V.; Unilever Plc; Conopco, Inc., D/B/A Unilever
Priority date: 2017-11-14
Filing date: 2018-10-29
Publication date: 2019-05-23

Abstract

This invention relates to a hair care composition formulated as a shampoo which effectively delivers hair growth. It is formulated with a combination of natural ingredients that not only delivers the desired functional benefit of hair growth but has highly desirable sensory properties like pleasing odour and acceptable tactile feel.

Description

A SHAMPOO COMPOSITION

Field of the invention

This invention relates to a hair care composition which effectively delivers hair growth. The invention more particularly relates to a shampoo composition that is formulated with a combination of natural ingredients that not only delivers the desired functional benefit of hair growth but has highly desirable sensory properties like pleasing odour and acceptable tactile feel comparable to conventional shampoos. Background of the invention

Wash-off hair care compositions like shampoos and conditioners generally provide cleansing or conditioning benefits or a combination of the two. Such compositions typically comprise one or more cleansing surfactants which generally aid in cleaning the hair and the scalp free of undesirable soil, particles and fatty matter. Conditioning benefit is achieved by including one or more conditioning agents in the hair care composition. Conditioning benefit is delivered with an oily material being deposited onto the hair resulting in the formation of a film, which makes the hair easier to comb when wet and more manageable when dry. Additionally, many other benefits have been claimed to be delivered through a shampoo/ conditioner. They include benefits like dandruff mitigation, hair styling, softness, damage repair, hair fall reduction, hair growth, hair colouring etc.

Whilst anti-dandruff benefits require cosmetic and or therapeutic agents to be delivered to the scalp, benefits like hair softness, hair colouring and damage repair require agents to be delivered primarily to the hair fiber. The benefits in such cases fade with time or as the hair grows. In contrast, benefits like hair fall reduction and hair growth are more complex phenomenon which are dependent on a large number of factors like nourishment in the food consumed, the quality of water used to wash the hair, the weather conditions, pollution and many physiological conditions that change with time like aging and/or hormonal changes in the body. The present inventors with their vast experience in formulating hair wash products like shampoos and with their extensive experience in research in the area of natural products embarked upon the problem of delivering improved hair growth through a wash-off cosmetic product like a shampoo. They realized that in solving such a problem which depends on a large number of physiological factors, providing a solution through a cosmetic product is really very difficult. Although many products are available in the market that claim hair growth, they include actives in such low amounts that they are functionally inactive at these concentrations. The problems that they face if they try to include high concentration of actives are high cost of including such expensive actives at functional levels, the effect on sensorials (tactile, odour etc) when natural actives are incorporated, to name a few. Further, it is well known that products like shampoo or conditioner are applied on the hair/ scalp only for a very short time e.g. a few seconds or minutes before they are rinsed off. The present inventors evaluated several products in the market claiming such benefits at such short contact times and found them to be inactive. After extensive research and experimentation and with the help of some surprising effects observed when formulating the natural actives to achieve the desired hair growth benefits while ensuring no compromise on tactile and odour sensorials, the present inventors came up with a specific combination of herbal extracts that ensures that the benefit promised to the consumers is delivered.

It is thus an object of the present invention to provide for a hair care composition preferably in the form of a shampoo that delivers hair growth.

It is another object of the present invention to provide for a hair growth composition in the form of a shampoo that is delivered through a combination of herbal extracts.

It is yet another object of the present invention to provide for a herbal hair growth shampoo that is pleasing to the consumer, both odour wise, as well as, feel on the skin/ scalp.

Summary of the invention

According to the first aspect of the present invention there is provided a shampoo composition comprising extracts of Rosmarinus officinalis, Eclipta alba, Lawsonia Inermis, Azadirachta indica, Acacia concinna, Phyllanthus emblica, and Ocimum sanctum.

According to the second aspect of the present invention there is provided a method of enhancing hair growth comprising washing scalp with a shampoo of the first aspect followed by rinsing the scalp surface with water. Detailed description of the invention

These and other aspects, features and advantages will become apparent to those of ordinary skill in the art from a reading of the following detailed description and the appended claims. For the avoidance of doubt, any feature of one aspect of the present invention may be utilized in any other aspect of the invention. The word“comprising” is intended to mean“including” but not necessarily“consisting of” or“composed of.” In other words, the listed steps or options need not be exhaustive. It is noted that the examples given in the description below are intended to clarify the invention and are not intended to limit the invention to those examples per se. Similarly, all percentages are weight/weight percentages unless otherwise indicated. Except in the operating and comparative examples, or where otherwise explicitly indicated, all numbers in this description and claims indicating amounts of material or conditions of reaction, physical properties of materials and/or use are to be understood as modified by the word“about”. Numerical ranges expressed in the format "from x to y" are understood to include x and y. When for a specific feature multiple preferred ranges are described in the format "from x to y", it is understood that all ranges combining the different endpoints are also contemplated. In other words, in specifying any ranges of values, any particular upper value can be associated with any particular lower value. The disclosure of the invention as found herein is to be considered to cover all embodiments as found in the claims as being multiply dependent upon each other irrespective of the fact that claims may be found without multiple dependency or redundancy. Where a feature is disclosed with respect to a particular aspect of the invention (for example a composition of the invention, such disclosure is also to be considered to apply to any other aspect of the invention (for example a method of the invention) mutatis mutandis. By‘Shampoo composition” as used herein, is meant to include a composition for topical application to hair and/or scalp of mammals, especially humans. Such a composition is generally classified as a rinse off or wash off product, and includes any product applied to a human body for also improving appearance, cleansing, odor control or general aesthetics. The composition of the present invention can be in the form of a liquid, lotion, cream, foam, scrub, or a gel. Non-limiting examples of such compositions include wash- off shampoos, shampoo cum conditioners or a shower gel.

The shampoo composition of the invention comprises extracts of Rosmarinus officinalis, Eclipta alba, Lawsonia Inermis, Azadirachta indica, Acacia concinna, Phyllanthus emblica, and Ocimum sanctum.

The extract of Rosmarinus officinalis is included in the composition on a dry weight basis at 1 to 4% preferably 1 to 3% by weight of the composition. Extract of Rosmarinus officinalis is also known as Rosemary oil. It is an essential oil which is extracted from the leaf of the rosemary plant. The oil is generally known for its anti-microbial properties and therefore the present inventors were pleasantly surprised that when high amounts (as presently claimed) of this oil was included in the shampoo composition, the odour characteristics was rendered pleasing and acceptable in spite of the inclusion of high amount of other natural extracts which do not have an acceptable odour. The Rosemary oil for use in the present invention was sourced from Shiva Export Corporation, India.

Eclipta alba is known in India as Bhringraj and has been reported in Ayurveda for various uses including promoting hair growth. The extract of Eclipta alba for use in the present invention is prepared by aqueous extraction of the whole plant. It has been sourced as a powder for use in the present invention from Chemiloids, India. The extract of Eclipta alba is preferably included in the composition on a dry weight basis at 0.5 to 2%, more preferably 0.5 to 1 .5% by weight of the composition.

Lawsonia Inermis is known in India as henna and has been used for ages in colouring hair and for providing a cooling effect when applied on a topical surface. The extract of Lawsonia Inermis for use in the present invention is prepared from aqueous extract of the leaves of the plant. It has been sourced as a powder for use in the present invention from Chemiloids, India. The extract of Lawsonia Inermis is preferably included in the composition on a dry weight basis at 0.1 to 1 %, more preferably 0.2 to 0.8% by weight of the composition.

Azadirachta indica is known in India as neem and is well known to have very good antimicrobial properties. The extract of Azadirachta indica for use in the present invention is prepared from aqueous extract of the leaves of the plant. It has been sourced as a powder for use in the present invention from Chemiloids, India. The extract of Azadirachta indica is preferably included in the composition on a dry weight basis at 0.1 to 1 %, more preferably 0.2 to 0.8% by weight of the composition.

Acacia concinna is known in India as Shikakai and is known to have cleansing and anti dandruff properties. The extract of Acacia concinna for use in the present invention is prepared from aqueous extract of the pods of the plant. It has been sourced as a powder for use in the present invention from Chemiloids, India. The extract of Acacia concinna in the composition is preferably included on a dry weight basis at 0.01 to 0.5%, more preferably 0.05 to 0.4% by weight of the composition.

Phyllanthus emblica is known in India as amla and the fruit of this plant is consumed as a food item which has a sour taste and sweet aftertaste, which is liked by many people. It is known to have cooling properties and is believed to promote tissue growth. The extract of Phyllanthus emblica for use in the present invention is prepared from aqueous extract of the fruits of the plant. It has been sourced as a powder for use in the present invention from Chemiloids, India. The extract of Phyllanthus emblica in the composition is preferably included on a dry weight basis at 0.01 to 0.25%, more preferably 0.05 to 0.2% by weight of the composition.

Ocimum sanctum is known in India as tulsi and has the common name of basil. The plant is considered sacred in India and many other cultures. It is known to have anti- microbial properties. The extract of Ocimum sanctum for use in the present invention is prepared from aqueous extract of the leaves of the plant. It has been sourced as a powder for use in the present invention from Chemiloids, India. The extract of Ocimum sanctum in the composition is preferably included on a dry weight basis at 0.01 to 0.25%, more preferably 0.05 to 0.2% by weight of the composition. By dry weight basis, is meant that the indicated percentage of the extract in dry form is included in the final shampoo composition. Total amount of extract included in the composition on a dry weight basis is preferably from 3 to 6% by weight of the composition.

The present inventors have found that, to the best of their knowledge, no shampoo product is sold in the market or has been reported to be prepared at these high concentrations. The unique and selective concentrations of the extracts claimed in the present invention ensures that the claimed hair growth is experienced by the consumers. The problem so far, in general has been that when such high concentrations of plant extracts are included in personal care products, they generally give an undesirable off odour which is not pleasing to the consumer. Hence shampoo formulators have shirked away from formulating products with such high concentrations of plant extracts. The present inventors have invented a unique formulation with high concentration of plant extract which, while delivering the functional hair growth benefits, surprisingly is seen to have a pleasant odour. Without wishing to be bound by theory, the inventors believe that in addition to contributing to the hair growth benefits, the inclusion of Rosmarinus officinalis extract (rosemary oil) at the indicated concentration masks the off odour of the other ingredients while delivering a pleasant odour to the finished product.

The composition of the invention preferably comprises an electrolyte from 0.1 to 1 % preferably 0.2 to 0.8% by weight of the composition. The electrolyte is preferably an alkali metal chloride preferably sodium chloride. Without wishing to be bound by theory the inclusion of this narrow range of concentration of electrolye ensures that the tactile sensorial (as can be measured as viscosity) is in the range that consumers are accustomed to expect from shampoos and is therefore pleasant to apply on skin/ scalp.

The composition of the invention may include 0.04 to 0.5% of a cationic modified guar deposition polymer. The polymer is preferably guar hydroxypropyl trimonium chloride. Guar polymer predominantly contains galactomannan polymer chains. This polymer is available at various molecular weights and degree of cationic substitutions depending on how much the guar has been hydrolysed and cationised. The cationic modified guar deposition polymer preferably has a molecular weight of from 1 .0 million to 3.0 million Dalton, preferably from 1.0 to 2.0 million Dalton. The cationic polymer preferably has a cationic degree of substitution of from 0.1 to 0.5, preferably from 0.1 to 0.4. The cationic modified guar deposition polymer is preferably present in 0.04 to 0.5%, more preferably 0.08 to 0.25% by weight of the composition.

The shampoo composition of the invention preferably additionally comprises a surfactant. The surfactant is preferably chosen from an alkyl sulphate and/or ethoxylated alkyl sulfate anionic surfactant. These anionic surfactants are preferably present at a level of from 2 to 16%, more preferably from 3 to 16% by weight of the composition. Preferred alkyl sulfates are C8-18 alky sulfates, more preferably C12-18 alkyl sulfates, preferably in the form of a salt with a solubilising cation such as sodium, potassium, ammonium or substituted ammonium. Examples are sodium lauryl sulfate (SLS) or sodium dodecyl sulfate (SDS).

Preferred alkyl ether sulfates are those having the formula: R0(CH2CH20)nS03M; wherein R is an alkyl or alkenyl having from 8 to 18 (preferably 12 to 18) carbon atoms; n is a number having an average value of greater than at least 0.5, preferably between 1 and 3, more preferably between 2 and 3; and M is a solubilising cation such as sodium, potassium, ammonium or substituted ammonium. An example is sodium lauryl ether sulfate (SLES). Preferred ethoxylated alkyl sulfate anionic surfactant is sodium lauryl ether sulfate (SLES) having an average degree of ethoxylation of from 0.5 to 3, preferably 1 to 3.

The composition as per the invention optionally and preferably additionally comprises a betaine surfactant. In a preferred embodiment, the composition comprises from 1 .5 to 2.5%, preferably in 1 .7 to 2.2% by weight of the composition, a betaine surfactant, preferably an alkyl amidopropyl betaine, for example cocamidopropyl betaine.

Shampoo compositions according to the invention may comprise one or more further anionic cleansing surfactants which are cosmetically acceptable and suitable for topical application to the hair.

When conditioning benefits are to be delivered through the hair care composition of the invention the composition comprises a conditioning agent. Typically, the most popular conditioning agents used in hair care compositions are water-insoluble oily materials such as mineral oils, naturally occurring oils such as triglycerides and silicone polymers. Conditioning benefit is achieved by the oily material being deposited onto the hair resulting in the formation of a film, which makes the hair easier to comb when wet and more manageable when dry. An especially useful conditioning agent is a silicone compound, preferably a non-volatile silicone compound. Advantageously compositions herein may include one or more silicones. The silicones are conditioning agents found in dispersed or suspended particulate form. They are intended to deposit onto hair remaining behind after rinsing of the hair with water. Suitable silicone oils may include polyalkyl siloxanes, polyaryl siloxanes, polyalkylaryl siloxanes, polyether siloxane copolymers and mixtures thereof. Amino silicones are often formulated with shampoo compositions. Amino silicones are silicones containing at least one primary amine, secondary amine, tertiary amine or a quaternary ammonium group. High molecular weight silicone gums can also be utilized. Another useful type are the crosslinked silicone elastomers such as Dimethicone/Vinyl/Dimethicone Crosspolymers (e.g. Dow Corning 9040 and 9041 ).

Amounts of the silicone in compositions where present may range from about 0.01 to about 10 wt.%, preferably from about 0.1 to about 8wt.%, more preferably from about 0.3 to about 5wt.% by weight of the hair care compositions.

Suspending Agent

Preferably the composition of the invention further comprises a suspending agent. Suitable suspending agents are selected from polyacrylic acids, cross-linked polymers of acrylic acid, copolymers of acrylic acid with a hydrophobic monomer, copolymers of carboxylic acid-containing monomers and acrylic esters, cross-linked copolymers of acrylic acid and acrylate esters, heteropolysaccharide gums and crystalline long chain acyl derivatives. The long chain acyl derivative is desirably selected from ethylene glycol stearate, alkanolamides of fatty acids having from 16 to 22 carbon atoms and mixtures thereof. Ethylene glycol distearate and polyethylene glycol 3 distearate are preferred long chain acyl derivatives, since these impart pearlescence to the composition. Polyacrylic acid is available commercially as Carbopol 420, Carbopol 488 or Carbopol 493. Polymers of acrylic acid cross-linked with a polyfunctional agent may also be used; they are available commercially as Carbopol 910, Carbopol 934, Carbopol 941 and Carbopol 980. An example of a suitable copolymer of a carboxylic acid containing monomer and acrylic acid esters is Carbopol 1342. All Carbopol (trademark) materials are available from Goodrich.

Suitable cross-linked polymers of acrylic acid and acrylate esters are Pemulen TR1 or Pemulen TR2. A suitable heteropolysaccharide gum is xanthan gum, for example that available as Kelzan mu.

Mixtures of any of the above suspending agents may be used. Preferred is a mixture of cross-linked polymer of acrylic acid and crystalline long chain acyl derivative.

Suspending agent, if included, will generally be present in a shampoo composition of the invention at levels of from 0.1 to 10%, preferably from 0.5 to 6%, more preferably from 0.5 to 4% by total weight of suspending agent based on the total weight of the composition.

A composition of the invention may contain other ingredients for enhancing performance and/or consumer acceptability. Such ingredients include fragrance, dyes and pigments, pH adjusting agents, pearlescers or opacifiers, viscosity modifiers, preservatives, and natural hair nutrients such as botanicals, fruit extracts, sugar derivatives and amino acids. According to another aspect of the present invention there is provided a method of enhancing hair growth comprising washing scalp with a shampoo of the invention followed by rinsing the surface with water. The method is preferably non-therapeutic.

The invention will now be illustrated with reference to the following non-limiting

Examples.

Examples

Example A, 1 : Effect of the inclusion of the extracts as compared to a base shampoo on hair growth.

The following shampoo compositions as shown in Table - 1 was prepared.

Table - 1

^A The extracts on dry weight basis was a combination of Rosmarinus officinalis (2.0%), Eclipta alba (1.0%), Lawsonia Inermis (0.4%), Azadirachta indica (0.4%), Acacia concinna (0.2%), Phyllanthus emblica (0.1%), and Ocimum sanctum (0.1 %), all percentages by weight of the shampoo composition.

The hair growth provided by these compositions was measured using the following protocol. Media Composition

William’s E medium (Sigma) was supplemented with 2 mM Glutamine, 10 ng/ml insulin, 10 ng/ml hydrocortisone, 100 units/ml penicillin. The hair follicles were cultured in a humidified incubator at 37° C and 5% CO2 in air.

Follicular Units

Hair grafts from occipital scalp of healthy adults (male) were obtained as waste discard of cosmetic surgery with informed consent and with due diligence of approval from ethics committees. Donors were healthy males of age group 20-30. Follicular units containing anagen hair follicle were micro dissected from the graft. Organ Culture of Follicular Units

Follicular units which were obtained were processed as follows. Organ culture of follicular units, consisting of 2 hair follicles was gently removed from the subcutaneous layer using a scalpel blade. Anagen hair follicles containing follicular units were identified by their well-rounded structure at the bulb, the anagen follicles were placed in 500mI culture media in a 24-well plate (single follicular unit with 2 follicles/ well); the culture media was changed every 3 days. To evaluate the morphology and hair growth, images were captured every 3 day for a period of 12 days using a stereo microscope (Olympus SZ40) with photo-capturing software. Length of the hair shaft was measured from the captured images using the Image ProPlus software. Each experiment was conducted with at least 6 follicular units per treatment and per volunteer.

All the follicles undergoing treatments were subjected to 30 seconds of rinse off with water wash and replaced in the culture media in a humidified incubator at 37° C and 5% CO2 in air. The average increase in hair length is summarised in the table - 2 below:

Table - 2

The data in Table -2 indicates that hair growth in a shampoo containing the extracts claimed in the present invention is much higher than hair treated with a shampoo not containing the extracts.

Claims

1. A shampoo composition comprising extracts of Rosmarinus officinalis, Eclipta alba, Lawsonia Inermis, Azadirachta indica, Acacia concinna, Phyllanthus emblica, and Ocimum sanctum.

2. A composition as claimed in claim 1 wherein extract of Rosmarinus officinalis is included in 1 to 4% preferably 1 to 3% by weight of the composition.

3. A composition as claimed in claim 1 or 2 wherein extract of Eclipta alba is included on a dry weight basis at 0.5 to 2%, preferably 0.5 to 1.5% by weight of the composition.

4. A composition as claimed in any one of the preceding claims wherein extract of Lawsonia Inermis is included on a dry weight basis at 0.1 to 1%, preferably 0.2 to 0.8% by weight of the composition.

5. A composition as claimed in any one of the preceding claims wherein extract of Azadirachta indica is included on a dry weight basis at 0.1 to 1 %, preferably 0.2 to 0.8% by weight of the composition.

6. A composition as claimed in any one of the preceding claims wherein extract of Acacia concinna is included on a dry weight basis at 0.01 to 0.5%, preferably 0.05 to 0.4% by weight of the composition.

7. A composition as claimed in any one of the preceding claims wherein extract of Phyllanthus emblica is included on a dry weight basis at 0.01 to 0.25%, preferably 0.05 to 0.2% by weight of the composition.

8. A composition as claimed in any one of the preceding claims wherein extract of Ocimum sanctum is included on a dry weight basis at 0.01 to 0.25%, preferably 0.05 to 0.2% by weight of the composition.

9. A composition as claimed in any one of the preceding claims wherein the total amount of extract on a dry weight basis is included in the composition from 3 to 6% by weight of the composition.

10. A composition as claimed in any one of the preceding claims comprising 0.1 to 1 % preferably 0.2 to 0.8% of an electrolyte.

1 1. A composition as claimed in claim 10 wherein said electrolyte is an alkali metal chloride preferably sodium chloride.

12. A composition as claimed in any one of the preceding claims additionally

comprising an alkyl sulphate and/or ethoxylated alkyl sulfate anionic surfactant.

13. A composition as claimed in any one of the preceding claims additionally

comprising a betaine surfactant.

14. A composition as claimed in claim 13 wherein the betaine surfactant is included in 1.5 to 2.5%, preferably in 1.7 to 2.2% by weight of the composition.

15. A method of enhancing hair growth comprising washing scalp with a shampoo as claimed in any one of the preceding claims followed by rinsing the surface with water.