WO2019063929A1 - Cosmetic use of syringa vulgaris l. meristematic cells for a soothing and/or softening action on the skin - Google Patents

Cosmetic use of syringa vulgaris l. meristematic cells for a soothing and/or softening action on the skin Download PDF

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Publication number
WO2019063929A1
WO2019063929A1 PCT/FR2018/052351 FR2018052351W WO2019063929A1 WO 2019063929 A1 WO2019063929 A1 WO 2019063929A1 FR 2018052351 W FR2018052351 W FR 2018052351W WO 2019063929 A1 WO2019063929 A1 WO 2019063929A1
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Prior art keywords
skin
cells
extract
cosmetic
composition
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PCT/FR2018/052351
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French (fr)
Inventor
Christian Lubrano
Benedicte SENNELIER
Catherine MERVOYER
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Laboratoires De Biologie Vegetale Yves Rocher
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Publication of WO2019063929A1 publication Critical patent/WO2019063929A1/en

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    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q19/00—Preparations for care of the skin
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K36/00—Medicinal preparations of undetermined constitution containing material from algae, lichens, fungi or plants, or derivatives thereof, e.g. traditional herbal medicines
    • A61K36/18—Magnoliophyta (angiosperms)
    • A61K36/185—Magnoliopsida (dicotyledons)
    • A61K36/63—Oleaceae (Olive family), e.g. jasmine, lilac or ash tree
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/96—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution
    • A61K8/97—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution from algae, fungi, lichens or plants; from derivatives thereof
    • A61K8/9783—Angiosperms [Magnoliophyta]
    • A61K8/9789—Magnoliopsida [dicotyledons]
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61P—SPECIFIC THERAPEUTIC ACTIVITY OF CHEMICAL COMPOUNDS OR MEDICINAL PREPARATIONS
    • A61P29/00—Non-central analgesic, antipyretic or antiinflammatory agents, e.g. antirheumatic agents; Non-steroidal antiinflammatory drugs [NSAID]
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q19/00—Preparations for care of the skin
    • A61Q19/005—Preparations for sensitive skin
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K2800/00—Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
    • A61K2800/80—Process related aspects concerning the preparation of the cosmetic composition or the storage or application thereof
    • A61K2800/88—Two- or multipart kits

Definitions

  • the present invention relates to the cosmetic use of an association of meristematic cell extract of Syringa vulgaris L., and to a cosmetic or dermatological composition comprising an extract of meristematic cells of Syringa vulgaris L., and to a method and a device involving this composition.
  • the present invention finds application in the field of cosmetics and dermatology, more particularly cutaneous cosmetics.
  • the skin is a vital organ in its own right that consists of three distinct tissues, each assuming different roles through different cell types and structures.
  • hypodermis located in depth and consisting for the most part of fatty lobules (adipocytes), provides a primary support function, mechanical and thermal protection and also plays a role in storing energy reserves quickly mobilized for all biological needs, such as for example cell renewal, defense of the body or muscle contraction.
  • adipocytes fatty lobules
  • the dermis is a connective tissue mainly invested with fibroblasts and matrix proteins giving the skin its qualities of compressibility and elasticity known. Changes in texture and composition are largely responsible for alterations of skin that occur during aging. The relief of the stratum corneum is, moreover, directly conditioned by the quality and density of the dermis that underlies it. More than the epidermis, whose renewal is rapid and constant, the dermis undergoes significant age-related disorders, through the aging of its cells and its material. As they age, fibroblasts are less and less reactive and less proliferative. With age, syntheses of macromolecules in the matrix are no longer provided by fibroblasts.
  • these constituent macro-molecules of the dermis such as collagen fibers, elastic fibers, proteoglycans and glycosaminoglycans (hyaluronic acid in particular) tend to degenerate and to fragment.
  • Their networks disorganize and reorient themselves parallel to the dermal-epidermal junction, especially under the action of matrix protein degrading enzymes, MMPs (Matrix Metallo Proteases), also called collagenases or elastases.
  • the epidermis The most surface tissue and therefore the most exposed is the epidermis.
  • This pluristratified (Malpighian) and keratinized epithelium is composed of different cells associated with many barrier and protective functions. The majority cells are the keratinocytes that divide in the basal layer and begin their differentiation to the stratum corneum (the outermost layer) and are removed by desquamation, in 21 to 28 days, on average.
  • the main role of the epidermis is to provide the skin, and thus the human body, with a first line of protection against external aggressions, such as physical, chemical, waterborne and bacteriological attacks. This protection is ensured in particular by the layers the most differentiated and the horny layer known for its hydrophobic properties, its compact and waterproof appearance.
  • the present invention is specifically intended to meet these needs and disadvantages of the prior art.
  • the inventors are the first to use an extract or the combination of several meristematic cell extracts of Syringa vulgaris L. to precisely meet the aforementioned needs.
  • the inventors have surprisingly shown that an extract or a combination of several meristematic cell extracts of Syringa vulgaris L. has calming, soothing, softening effects and providing benefits of comfort for the skin, especially sensitive skin and / or reactive.
  • the inventors have in particular demonstrated a superior effect of an extract of meristematic cells of Syringa vulgaris L. consisting of the cell walls of said cells and the cellular content of said cells, with respect to the use of the constituents of these extracts taken. separately, on the expression of pro-inflammatory mediators by epidermal keratinocytes, in particular the secretion of IL-6 and TNF ⁇ .
  • the inventors are the first to propose an extract or the combination of meristematic cell extract of Syringa vulgaris L. as a soothing cosmetic agent, soothing, softening and providing comfort benefits for the care of so-called normal skin and skin. so-called sensitive and / or reactive skin.
  • a first subject of the invention relates to an extract of meristematic cells of Syringa vulgaris L. consisting of cell walls of said cells and / or the cellular content of said cells.
  • a second object of the invention relates to the cosmetic use of the meristematic cell extract of Syringa vulgaris L. according to the invention for an action for a soothing action of the skin and / or mucous membranes.
  • a third subject of the invention relates to a cosmetic or dermatological composition
  • a cosmetic or dermatological composition comprising an extract of meristematic Syringa vulgaris L. cells of the invention, and optionally a cosmetically and / or dermatologically acceptable vehicle.
  • the composition advantageously comprising 0.00001 to 5% by weight of said extract of meristematic cells of Syringa vulgaris L. relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • a fourth subject of the invention relates to a device in a form selected from a pot, a pump bottle, a wipe, a mask, a transdermal device, a patch, a spray, said device comprising a composition according to the invention. 'invention.
  • Another subject of the invention relates to a cosmetic process for softening and / or soothing the skin, comprising an application on the skin of a cosmetic composition according to the invention or an extract as defined in any one of claims according to the invention.
  • Another subject of the invention relates to a use of a cosmetic or dermatological composition according to the invention for improving the appearance of the skin of a subject.
  • Another subject of the invention relates to a process for the preparation of a cosmetic or dermatological composition according to the invention, comprising the mixture of an extract of meristematic cells of Syringa vulgaris L. according to the invention and a cosmetically or dermatologically acceptable vehicle.
  • Syringa vulgaris L. also called Common Lilac in French is a shrub native to Central and Eastern Europe and widely cultivated and introduced in Europe and North America. Renowned for its use in ornamentation, it is also used in traditional medicine for its ability to treat rheumatism (arthrosis) or diabetes (Su et al., Phytochemical and Pharmacological progresson the genus Syringa, Chemistry Central Journal, 2015, 9, 2 ([1])).
  • the meristematic cells of Syringa vulgaris L. are obtained from in vitro culture of cells of Syringa vulgaris L.
  • In vitro plant cell culture technologies began in 1939 with the demonstration of obtaining calli which are clusters of undifferentiated cells also called meristematic cells. Their production on an industrial scale goes back to the 1990s (Trevor A. Thorpe, History of Plant Tissue Culture, Molecular Biotechnology, 2007, 37, 2, 169-180 ([2])).
  • the principle consists, from a plant sample, to dedifferentiate the constituent cells of the sample, then induce the cell multiplication of these meristematic cells. The goal is to increase the biomass so that the cells are recovered whole, or fragmented with a high concentration of metabolites of interest.
  • the meristematic cells of Syringa vulgaris L may belong to the cell line Syringa vulgaris IRB-SV25 / B DSMZ, deposited on 15/03/2004 at DMSZ (Deutsche Sammlung von Mikroorganismen und Zelikulturen, Inhoffenstrasse 7B, D-38124 Braunscheid, Germany ) under the number DSM 16857 by the company IRB (Institute for Research Biotechnology SpA, 7 Via Lago di Tovel, 36077 Altavilla Vicentina (VI), Italy). This cell line is described in EP1736167 ([5]).
  • the extract may consist of meristematic cells of Syringa vulgaris L. consisting of cell walls of said cells and / or the cellular content of said cells.
  • the constituent (s) of the extract may be derived from the lysis of a cell culture of whole meristematic cells of Syringa vulgaris L.
  • the meristematic cells of Syringa vulgaris L. can be cultured according to the method described in the patent
  • fraction A consisting of cell wall fragments
  • fraction B consisting of cell contents.
  • Fractions A and / or B may optionally be suspended in glycerine to obtain a glycerolated preparation of meristematic cells of Syringa vulgaris L.
  • fraction A and fraction B may be present in the extract in a ratio ranging from from 1: 99 to 99: 1, for example being a ratio of about 50:50.
  • the cellular content contains all or part of the metabolites as described above.
  • An extract according to the invention is capable of being prepared according to the process comprising the steps of:
  • step b) lysis of said cells of step a) by high pressure process
  • step c) filtering said lysed cells in step c),
  • the meristematic cells of Syringa vulgaris L. may be in any suitable form, especially in the context of a cosmetic or dermatological use.
  • meristematic cells of Syringa vulgaris L. may be whole or lysed. They can be suspended in liquid form or dried.
  • the solvent used may be chosen from propylene glycol, butylene glycol, methylpropanediol, propane-1,3-diol and glycerine, a eutectic solvent composed of molecules of plant or natural origin, such as those described in US Pat. the document FR3017292 ([7]) or a mixture of these solvents, this list not being limiting.
  • the mixtures of these solvents can be made in any possible proportion.
  • the cell preparation can be obtained by evaporation under vacuum, by spraying, freeze-drying or by any other appropriate means known to those skilled in the art.
  • the term "cosmetic use” is intended to mean any use intended to bring the meristematic cell extract of Syringa vulgaris L. into contact with a superficial part of the human body, for example the epidermis, the organs external or mucous membranes external, for an action on the appearance of the skin. This may include an aesthetic action on the skin, or an action to restore a feeling of comfort of sensitive / reactive skin.
  • the cosmetic use advantageously has a calming, soothing, softening and providing benefits of comfort, soothing of the skin and / or sensitive and / or reactive mucosa.
  • the term "soothing action” is intended to mean at least one action chosen from the attenuation of diffuse redness, the improvement of the complexion, the restoration of the complexion, the restoration of the skin texture, the return of radiance from the skin, restoring a more uniform skin brightness, reducing feelings of tightness, discomfort, tingling, diffuse heat, irritability of the skin.
  • soothing action within the meaning of the present invention, one can hear an anti-inflammatory type action against unpleasant sensations felt by subjects with sensitive / reactive skin. This reaction can be explained by a decrease in the expression of pro-inflammatory mediators induced following stress of any nature that causes the unpleasant sensations felt by the subjects. It may be for example the expression of interleukin 6 (IL6) or Tumor Necrosis factor alpha (TNF ⁇ ) produced by epidermal keratinocytes.
  • IL6 interleukin 6
  • TNF ⁇ Tumor Necrosis factor alpha
  • any skin or mucosa subject to sensations of discomfort may manifest by redness more or less diffuse and localized, itching, tugging, irritations, sensations of warming up. These sensations of discomfort may be due to external aggressions such as water stress, heat stress, UV radiation, wind, pollution or chafing irritation. These sensations can be transient or recurrent. In any case, these sensations are not assimilated to a pathology of the skin.
  • the term “mucosa” is intended to mean in particular external mucous membranes such as the lips.
  • the term “softener” means obtaining a more silky effect of the skin upon touching after use of the extract, and / or a reduction in the roughness effect of the skin on the skin. to touch.
  • the term "improving the brightness of the skin” is intended to mean obtaining a brighter skin. This effect can be observed qualitatively, for example visually, or quantitatively, for example by chromometric studies where the L * a * b * components are measured.
  • the term "improve the homogeneity of the skin color" is intended to obtain a more homogeneous color after use of the extract on the skin, in particular via a better distribution of the red component. of the skin, by a limitation of redness.
  • the term "cosmetic composition” is intended to mean any cosmetic composition, that is to say aesthetic, a composition that can be brought into contact with the superficial parts of the human body, for example the epidermis, the hair systems and capillaries.
  • a cosmetic composition makes it possible, exclusively or mainly to protect them, to perfume, to maintain in good condition, to modify their appearance or to correct their superficial defects.
  • the term "dermatological composition” is intended to mean any composition for dermatological purposes, that is to say a composition which can be brought into contact with the superficial parts of the human body, for a treatment of the skin, mucous membranes, and dander, such as nails, hair, or hair.
  • a composition may comprise additional active agents other than the extract of meristematic cells of Syringa vulgaris L, which may be described as dermatological or therapeutic, which explains the "dermatological" quality of the composition.
  • cosmetically or dermatologically acceptable vehicle is meant a vehicle adapted for use in contact with cutaneous human and animal cells, in particular the cells of the epidermis, without toxicity, irritation, undue allergic response and the like, and proportionate to a reasonable benefit / risk ratio.
  • the cosmetically acceptable vehicle may be selected from water, allantoin, glycerin, methylpropanediol; this list is not limiting.
  • composition of the invention can be obtained by any suitable method known to those skilled in the art for the manufacture of a cosmetic composition. It may be, for example a simple mixture. It may be alternatively, for example, a method comprising a step of incorporating an internal phase into an external phase by means of an emulsifier, for example a rotor-stator type turbine. It may also be for example a method using Phase Inversion Temperature (TIP), this method being conventionally used by those skilled in the art to obtain oil-in-water emulsions whose dispersed droplets are particularly thin, for example with a diameter of 0.1 to 1 ⁇ .
  • TIP Phase Inversion Temperature
  • the cosmetic or dermatological composition may comprise 0.00001 to 5% by weight of said extract or said mixture by association of meristematic cell extracts of Syringa vulgaris L. relative to the total weight of the composition, for example 0.0001 to 5.0% by weight, or 0.001 to 5.0% by weight, or 0.01 to 5.0% by weight or 0.1 to 5.0% by weight, or 1 to 5.0% by weight, or 0 to 5.0% by weight, or 2.0 to 4.0% by weight of said meristematic cell extract of Syringa vulgaris L. relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the cosmetic or dermatological composition of the present invention may be in any form suitable for cosmetic or dermatological application.
  • the composition may be a composition for topical use.
  • the cosmetic or dermatological composition may, for example, be in a form chosen from the group comprising an aqueous or aqueous-alcoholic gel, an aqueous or aqueous-alcoholic cream and an aqueous or hydroalcoholic lotion.
  • these formulations that can be used for the implementation of the present invention are known in the state of the art. by the formulators. In these examples of composition, it is sufficient to add the extract or combination of meristematic cell extracts of Syringa vulgaris L. of the present invention to obtain a composition according to the present invention.
  • the composition may be in a form chosen from an ointment, a cream, an oil, a milk, an ointment, a powder, a soaked swab, a solution, a gel, a serum, a balm or a butter. , a lotion, a suspension, a soap or an emulsion.
  • the extract of the present invention may be used in a cosmetic or dermatological composition alone or in combination with other substances or ingredients that are active or inactive cosmetically or dermatologically.
  • Inactive substances or ingredients are those that do not act cosmetically or dermatologically. It is about the elements of the composition allowing in particular to accompany the extract, to constitute a particular formulation, to preserve the active extract in the time, this list not being limiting. It can be in other words any basic product that can be found in conventional cosmetic or dermatological compositions.
  • the active substances or ingredients are those which in the cosmetic or dermatological application referred to have an aesthetic and / or medical action.
  • the meristematic cell extract of Syringa vulgaris L. of the present invention may be the only substance or active ingredient of a composition, or it may be associated with other substances or active ingredients of a cosmetic composition or dermatology.
  • the cosmetic or dermatological treatment method of the invention makes it possible in particular to provide a soothing effect and / or to improve the surface qualities of the skin, for example at least one effect selected from the attenuation of diffuse redness, improvement of the uniformity of the complexion, the grain of skin, the diminution of the feelings of tightness, tingling, diffuse heat, irritability.
  • the use means a non-therapeutic use, for example for the treatment of normal skin, that is to say skin that does not present a pathological condition, to the exclusion of any therapeutic use.
  • any cosmetic use and any cosmetic process according to the invention are respectively non-therapeutic cosmetic uses and non-therapeutic cosmetic processes.
  • fraction B The filtrate which contains the cell contents of the lysed cells is called fraction B
  • the retentate and the filtrate are combined and suspended in glycerin at a level of 10%.
  • Skin inflammation is a complex phenomenon involving all skin cells and blood cells.
  • One of the first steps is the expression of pro-inflammatory mediators, especially interleukin 6 (IL-6) and tumor necrosis factor alpha (TNFa) by the keratinocytes under the action of stress.
  • IL-6 interleukin 6
  • TNFa tumor necrosis factor alpha
  • the studies were carried out on normal human epidermal keratinocytes, obtained from abdominal plasties, seeded in a monolayer under the appropriate culture conditions, namely in a medium KSFM (free-serum keratinocytes serum, Invitrogen) at a temperature of 37 ° C. under a 5% CO 2 atmosphere and saturated with moisture.
  • the cells were treated with the extract of Syringa vulgaris L. meristem cells (10 A or 10% "3%).
  • the cells are subjected to radiation from the solar simulator at a rate of 760W / m 2 (Suntest CPS +). Then, 24 hours after irradiation, the supernatants are harvested and the expressions of NL6 and TNF ⁇ are measured by means of an ELISA test marketed by Bender MedSystem (BMS213INSTCE for IL6 and BMS223INSTCE for TNF ⁇ ). These results are analyzed with respect to the residual viability of the cells (MTT mitochondrial activity assay).
  • Table I Expression of IL6 and TNFa after irradiation of keratinocytes.

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Abstract

The present invention relates to an extract of Syringa vulgaris L. meristematic cells consisting of cell walls of said cells and/or of the cell content of said cells. The present invention also relates to a cosmetic use of the extract of Syringa vulgaris L. meristematic cells, for a soothing action of the skin and/or mucous membranes, and also to a cosmetic or dermatological composition comprising an extract of Syringa vulgaris L. meristematic cells as defined in any one of claims 1 to 3, and a cosmetically and/or dermatologically acceptable carrier, said composition comprising 0.00001% by weight of said extract of Syringa vulgaris L. meristematic cells relative to the total weight of the composition. The present invention further relates to a cosmetic method 1 for softening the skin and/or soothing, comprising an application to the skin of the cosmetic composition or of the extract of Syringa vulgari L. meristematic cells, and also to a use of a cosmetic or dermatological composition as above, for improving the appearance of the skin of a subject.

Description

UTILISATION COSMETIQUE DE CELLULES MERISTEMATIQUES DE SYRINGA VULGARIS L. POUR UNE ACTION APAISANTE ET/OU  COSMETIC USE OF MERISTEMATIC CELLS OF SYRINGA VULGARIS L. FOR SOOTHING ACTION AND / OR
ADOUCISSANTE SUR LA PEAU DESCRIPTION  SOFTENING ON THE SKIN DESCRIPTION
Domaine technique Technical area
La présente invention se rapporte à l'utilisation cosmétique d'une association d'extrait de cellules méristématiques de Syringa vulgaris L., ainsi qu'à une composition cosmétique ou dermatologique comprenant un extrait de cellules méristématiques de Syringa vulgaris L., et à un procédé et un dispositif impliquant cette composition.  The present invention relates to the cosmetic use of an association of meristematic cell extract of Syringa vulgaris L., and to a cosmetic or dermatological composition comprising an extract of meristematic cells of Syringa vulgaris L., and to a method and a device involving this composition.
La présente invention trouve une application dans le domaine de la cosmétique et de la dermatologie, plus particulièrement de la cosmétique cutanée.  The present invention finds application in the field of cosmetics and dermatology, more particularly cutaneous cosmetics.
Dans la description ci-dessous, les références entre crochets ([ ]) renvoient à la liste des références présentée à la fin du texte. Etat de la technique In the description below, references in brackets ([]) refer to the list of references at the end of the text. State of the art
La peau est un organe vital à part entière qui se compose de trois tissus distincts, assumant chacun différents rôles grâce à différents types cellulaires et différentes structures.  The skin is a vital organ in its own right that consists of three distinct tissues, each assuming different roles through different cell types and structures.
L'hypoderme, situé en profondeur et constitué en majeure partie de lobules graisseux (adipocytes), assure une fonction de support primaire, de protection mécanique et thermique et joue aussi un rôle de stockage des réserves énergétiques rapidement mobilisables pour tous les besoins biologiques, comme par exemple le renouvellement cellulaire, la défense de l'organisme ou la contraction musculaire.  The hypodermis, located in depth and consisting for the most part of fatty lobules (adipocytes), provides a primary support function, mechanical and thermal protection and also plays a role in storing energy reserves quickly mobilized for all biological needs, such as for example cell renewal, defense of the body or muscle contraction.
En position intermédiaire, le derme est un tissu conjonctif investi majoritairement de fibroblastes et de protéines matricielles donnant à la peau ses qualités de compressibilité et d'élasticité connues. Les modifications de sa texture et de sa composition sont largement responsables des altérations de la peau qui surviennent au cours du vieillissement. Le relief de la couche cornée est, par ailleurs, directement conditionné par la qualité et la densité du derme qui la sous-tend. Plus que l'épiderme, dont le renouvellement est rapide et constant, le derme subit des troubles importants liés à l'âge, par le vieillissement de ses cellules et de sa matière. En vieillissant, les fibroblastes sont de moins en moins réactifs et de moins en moins prolifératifs. Avec l'âge, les synthèses des macromolécules de la matrice ne sont plus assurées par les fibroblastes. De plus, ces macro-molécules constitutives du derme telles que les fibres de collagène, les fibres élastiques, les protéoglycanes et les glycosaminoglycanes (acide hyaluronique notamment) ont tendance à dégénérer et à se fragmenter. Leurs réseaux se désorganisent et se réorientent parallèlement à la jonction dermo-épidermique, notamment sous l'action d'enzymes de dégradations des protéines matricielles, les MMP (Matrix Métallo Proteases), aussi appelées collagénases ou élastases. Ces phénomènes d'altération du tissu dermique provoquent en surface un défaut d'organisation de l'épiderme et, d'une façon plus visible et plus directe, une perte de fermeté pouvant aller jusqu'à la ptôse cutanée et/ou la formation de rides. In the intermediate position, the dermis is a connective tissue mainly invested with fibroblasts and matrix proteins giving the skin its qualities of compressibility and elasticity known. Changes in texture and composition are largely responsible for alterations of skin that occur during aging. The relief of the stratum corneum is, moreover, directly conditioned by the quality and density of the dermis that underlies it. More than the epidermis, whose renewal is rapid and constant, the dermis undergoes significant age-related disorders, through the aging of its cells and its material. As they age, fibroblasts are less and less reactive and less proliferative. With age, syntheses of macromolecules in the matrix are no longer provided by fibroblasts. In addition, these constituent macro-molecules of the dermis such as collagen fibers, elastic fibers, proteoglycans and glycosaminoglycans (hyaluronic acid in particular) tend to degenerate and to fragment. Their networks disorganize and reorient themselves parallel to the dermal-epidermal junction, especially under the action of matrix protein degrading enzymes, MMPs (Matrix Metallo Proteases), also called collagenases or elastases. These phenomena of alteration of the dermal tissue cause, on the surface, a lack of organization of the epidermis and, in a more visible and direct way, a loss of firmness which may even reach the cutaneous ptosis and / or the formation of wrinkles.
Au sein de la trame conjonctive, s'intercalent aussi d'autres cellules et structures, tel un important réseau circulatoire et nutritif, constitué des vaisseaux sanguins et des capillaires lymphatiques, ainsi que les annexes épidermiques : cheveux, poils, ongles, glandes pilosébacées et glandes sudoripares, qui prennent naissance dans le derme profond.  Within the conjunctive framework, other cells and structures are inserted, such as an important circulatory and nutritive network, consisting of blood vessels and lymphatic capillaries, as well as epidermal appendages: hair, hair, nails, pilosebaceous glands and sweat glands, which originate in the deep dermis.
Le tissu le plus en surface et donc le plus exposé est l'épiderme. Cet épithélium pluristratifié (Malpighien) et kératinisé, se compose de différentes cellules associées à de nombreuses fonctions de barrière et de protection. Les cellules majoritaires sont les kératinocytes qui se divisent dans la couche basale et entament leur différenciation jusqu'à la couche cornée (couche la plus externe) puis sont éliminés par desquamation, en 21 à 28 jours, en moyenne. Le rôle majeur de l'épiderme est d'apporter à la peau, et donc au corps humain, une première ligne de protection contre les agressions extérieures, comme les agressions physiques, chimiques, hydriques et bactériologiques. Cette protection est notamment assurée par les couches les plus différenciées et la couche cornée connue pour ses propriétés hydrophobes, son aspect compacte et étanche. The most surface tissue and therefore the most exposed is the epidermis. This pluristratified (Malpighian) and keratinized epithelium is composed of different cells associated with many barrier and protective functions. The majority cells are the keratinocytes that divide in the basal layer and begin their differentiation to the stratum corneum (the outermost layer) and are removed by desquamation, in 21 to 28 days, on average. The main role of the epidermis is to provide the skin, and thus the human body, with a first line of protection against external aggressions, such as physical, chemical, waterborne and bacteriological attacks. This protection is ensured in particular by the layers the most differentiated and the horny layer known for its hydrophobic properties, its compact and waterproof appearance.
Les conditions de vie actuelles font subir à l'organisme toutes sortes d'agressions auxquelles il est difficile de se soustraire de façon permanente et efficace, comme les stress environnementaux, les différentes qualités d'eau, des soins d'hygiène plus ou moins agressifs ou des frottements avec des matériaux plus ou moins abrasifs. Ces stress peuvent être à l'origine de diverses réactions à la surface de la peau (rougeurs, chaleurs, prurit, démangeaisons, inconforts ...). Toutes les peaux réagissent à ces agents externes, mais leur seuil de tolérance n'est pas le même. Les « peaux sensibles et/ou réactives » sont plus sensibles aux irritations récurrentes que les peaux « normales » et vont déclencher une réaction de type inflammatoire : elles rougissent plus vite et plus souvent que d'autres. Cette typologie de peau ne relève pas de la dermatologie, c'est-à-dire du domaine de la thérapeutique, car l'état peut être transitoire et/ou sans raisons apparentes. L'inflammation cutanée, provoquée par les agressions extérieures, est à l'origine de la sensibilisation de la peau. Il s'agit d'un phénomène complexe mettant en jeu de nombreuses cellules de la peau et de nombreuses cellules sanguines. Il semblerait que les peaux sensibles sécrètent en excès certains neuromédiateurs par les terminaisons des nerfs superficiels et des cytokines pro-inflammatoires. Ces sécrétions anormales seraient ainsi à l'origine des sensations désagréables ressenties par les sujets. L'une des premières étapes est de la réaction est ainsi l'expression de médiateurs proinflammatoires comme l'interleukine-6 (IL6) et le tumor necrosis factor alpha (TNFa), notamment par les kératinocytes sous l'effet du stress/ de l'agression. Il convient donc de calmer cette réaction inflammatoire par une action légère mais globale.  The current living conditions cause the body all kinds of aggressions that are difficult to escape permanently and effectively, such as environmental stresses, different water qualities, more or less aggressive hygiene care or friction with more or less abrasive materials. These stresses can be at the origin of various reactions on the surface of the skin (redness, heat, pruritus, itching, discomfort ...). All skin reacts to these external agents, but their tolerance is not the same. "Sensitive and / or reactive skin" is more sensitive to recurrent irritations than "normal" skin and will trigger an inflammatory reaction: they blush faster and more often than others. This typology of skin does not belong to dermatology, that is to say the field of therapy, because the state may be transient and / or without apparent reasons. Skin inflammation, caused by external aggressions, is responsible for the sensitization of the skin. This is a complex phenomenon involving many skin cells and many blood cells. It seems that sensitive skin excessively secretes certain neuromediators by superficial nerve endings and pro-inflammatory cytokines. These abnormal secretions would thus be at the origin of the unpleasant sensations felt by the subjects. One of the first steps in the reaction is thus the expression of proinflammatory mediators such as interleukin-6 (IL6) and tumor necrosis factor alpha (TNFα), in particular by the keratinocytes under the effect of stress / inflammation. 'aggression. It is therefore appropriate to calm this inflammatory reaction by a slight but global action.
S'il existe de très nombreux produits cosmétiques destinés à tous les soins de la peau, comme les crème hydratantes, les laits démaquillants, les sérums anti-âge ou encore les masques purifiants, ils ne sont pas tous conseillés aux peaux sensibles. En effet, celles-ci nécessitent des produits spécialement conçus pour éviter la sensibilisation de la peau, tout en apportant aussi un bénéfice cosmétique complémentaire, comme l'hydratation, ou une action anti-âge par exemple. If there are many cosmetic products for all skin care, such as moisturizers, milks, anti-aging serums or purifying masks, they are not all recommended for sensitive skin. Indeed, these require products specifically designed to prevent skin sensitization, while also providing a complementary cosmetic benefit, such as hydration, or an anti-aging action for example.
De plus, il existe des formulations adaptées aux peaux sensibles qui excluent certains composants connus pour leur propension à irriter les peaux sensibles comme les parfums par exemple. Ces formulations permettent donc d'éviter le risque de sensibilisation.  In addition, there are formulations adapted to sensitive skin that exclude certain known components for their propensity to irritate sensitive skin such as perfumes for example. These formulations therefore make it possible to avoid the risk of sensitization.
Toutefois, ces formulations ne permettent pas, en tant que telle, d'apaiser les peaux sensibles.  However, these formulations do not allow, as such, to soothe sensitive skin.
Il existe donc un réel besoin de trouver de nouvelles compositions et/ou composés permettant d'assurer de façon effective un effet apaisant de la peau, de ses annexes et des muqueuses. En particulier, il existe un réel besoin de trouver des composés naturels qui permettent de prévenir, c'est-à- dire inhiber ou, à tout le moins, retarder la sécrétion de facteurs inflammatoires lors de réactions propres aux peaux sensibles ou réactives.  There is therefore a real need to find new compositions and / or compounds to effectively ensure a soothing effect of the skin, its annexes and mucous membranes. In particular, there is a real need to find natural compounds that prevent, that is to say inhibit or, at least, delay the secretion of inflammatory factors in reactions specific to sensitive or reactive skin.
Description de l'invention Description of the invention
La présente invention a précisément pour but de répondre à ces besoins et inconvénients de l'art antérieur.  The present invention is specifically intended to meet these needs and disadvantages of the prior art.
Les inventeurs sont les tout premiers à utiliser un extrait ou l'association de plusieurs extraits de cellules méristématiques de Syringa vulgaris L. permettant précisément de répondre efficacement aux besoins précités. Les inventeurs ont montré de manière surprenante qu'un extrait ou une association de plusieurs extraits de cellules méristématiques de Syringa vulgaris L. possède des effets calmants, apaisants, adoucissants et apportant des bénéfices de confort pour la peau, notamment des peaux sensibles et/ou réactives.  The inventors are the first to use an extract or the combination of several meristematic cell extracts of Syringa vulgaris L. to precisely meet the aforementioned needs. The inventors have surprisingly shown that an extract or a combination of several meristematic cell extracts of Syringa vulgaris L. has calming, soothing, softening effects and providing benefits of comfort for the skin, especially sensitive skin and / or reactive.
En outre, les inventeurs ont notamment mis en évidence un effet supérieur d'un extrait de cellules méristématiques de Syringa vulgaris L. constitué des parois cellulaires desdites cellules et du contenu cellulaire desdites cellules, par rapport à l'utilisation des constituants de ces extraits pris séparément, sur l'expression de médiateurs pro-inflammatoires par les kératinocytes épidermiques, notamment la sécrétion d'IL-6 et TNFa. Les inventeurs sont les premiers à proposer un extrait ou l'association d'extrait de cellules méristématiques de Syringa vulgaris L. en tant qu'agent cosmétique calmant, apaisant, adoucissant et apportant des bénéfices de confort pour le soin des peaux dites normales et des peaux dites sensibles et/ou réactives. In addition, the inventors have in particular demonstrated a superior effect of an extract of meristematic cells of Syringa vulgaris L. consisting of the cell walls of said cells and the cellular content of said cells, with respect to the use of the constituents of these extracts taken. separately, on the expression of pro-inflammatory mediators by epidermal keratinocytes, in particular the secretion of IL-6 and TNFα. The inventors are the first to propose an extract or the combination of meristematic cell extract of Syringa vulgaris L. as a soothing cosmetic agent, soothing, softening and providing comfort benefits for the care of so-called normal skin and skin. so-called sensitive and / or reactive skin.
Ainsi, un premier objet de l'invention se rapporte à un extrait de cellules méristématiques de Syringa vulgaris L. constitué des parois cellulaires desdites cellules et/ou du contenu cellulaire desdites cellules.  Thus, a first subject of the invention relates to an extract of meristematic cells of Syringa vulgaris L. consisting of cell walls of said cells and / or the cellular content of said cells.
Un deuxième objet de l'invention se rapporte à l'utilisation cosmétique de l'extrait de cellules méristématique de Syringa vulgaris L. selon l'invention pour une action pour une action apaisante de la peau et/ou des muqueuses.  A second object of the invention relates to the cosmetic use of the meristematic cell extract of Syringa vulgaris L. according to the invention for an action for a soothing action of the skin and / or mucous membranes.
Un troisième objet de l'invention se rapporte à une composition cosmétique ou dermatologique comprenant un extrait de cellules méristématiques de Syringa vulgaris L. de l'invention, et éventuellement un véhicule cosmétiquement et/ou dermatologiquement acceptable. La composition comprenant avantageusement 0,00001 à 5 % en poids dudit extrait de cellules méristématiques de Syringa vulgaris L. par rapport au poids total de la composition.  A third subject of the invention relates to a cosmetic or dermatological composition comprising an extract of meristematic Syringa vulgaris L. cells of the invention, and optionally a cosmetically and / or dermatologically acceptable vehicle. The composition advantageously comprising 0.00001 to 5% by weight of said extract of meristematic cells of Syringa vulgaris L. relative to the total weight of the composition.
Un quatrième objet de l'invention se rapporte à un dispositif se présentant sous une forme choisie parmi un pot, un flacon-pompe, une lingette, un masque, un dispositif transdermique, un patch, un spray, ledit dispositif comprenant une composition selon l'invention.  A fourth subject of the invention relates to a device in a form selected from a pot, a pump bottle, a wipe, a mask, a transdermal device, a patch, a spray, said device comprising a composition according to the invention. 'invention.
Un autre objet de l'invention se rapporte à un procédé cosmétique pour adoucir et/ou apaiser la peau, comprenant une application sur la peau d'une composition cosmétique selon l'invention ou d'un extrait tel que défini dans l'une quelconque des revendications selon l'invention.  Another subject of the invention relates to a cosmetic process for softening and / or soothing the skin, comprising an application on the skin of a cosmetic composition according to the invention or an extract as defined in any one of claims according to the invention.
Un autre objet de l'invention se rapporte à une utilisation d'une composition cosmétique ou dermatologique selon l'invention, pour améliorer l'aspect la peau d'un sujet.  Another subject of the invention relates to a use of a cosmetic or dermatological composition according to the invention for improving the appearance of the skin of a subject.
Un autre objet de l'invention se rapporte à un procédé de préparation d'une composition cosmétique ou dermatologique selon l'invention, comprenant le mélange d'un extrait de cellules méristématiques de Syringa vulgaris L. selon l'invention et d'un véhicule cosmétiquement ou dermatologiquement acceptable. Another subject of the invention relates to a process for the preparation of a cosmetic or dermatological composition according to the invention, comprising the mixture of an extract of meristematic cells of Syringa vulgaris L. according to the invention and a cosmetically or dermatologically acceptable vehicle.
Syringa vulgaris L. (Oleaceae) également appelé Lilas commun en Français est un arbuste originaire d'Europe centrale et d'Orient et largement cultivé et introduit en Europe et en Amérique du Nord. Réputé pour son utilisation en ornementation, il est également utilisé en médecine traditionnelle pour sa faculté à traiter les rhumatismes (arthroses) ou encore le diabète (Su et al., Phytochemical and pharmacological progresson the genus Syringa. Chemistry Central Journal, 2015, 9, 2 ([1])).  Syringa vulgaris L. (Oleaceae) also called Common Lilac in French is a shrub native to Central and Eastern Europe and widely cultivated and introduced in Europe and North America. Renowned for its use in ornamentation, it is also used in traditional medicine for its ability to treat rheumatism (arthrosis) or diabetes (Su et al., Phytochemical and Pharmacological progresson the genus Syringa, Chemistry Central Journal, 2015, 9, 2 ([1])).
Les cellules méristématiques de Syringa vulgaris L., sont obtenues à partir de culture in vitro de cellules de Syringa vulgaris L. Les technologies de culture cellulaires végétales in vitro ont débuté en 1939 avec la démonstration de l'obtention de cals qui sont des amas de cellules indifférenciées appelés également cellules méristématiques. Leur production à l'échelle industrielle remonte aux années 1990 (Trevor A.Thorpe. History of plant tissue culture. Molecular biotechnology, 2007, 37, 2, 169-180 ([2])). Le principe consiste, à partir d'un échantillon végétal, à dédifférencier les cellules constitutives de l'échantillon, puis induire ensuite la multiplication cellulaire de ces cellules méristématiques. Le but est d'accroître la biomasse afin que les cellules soient récupérées entières, ou fragmentées avec une concentration importante en métabolites d'intérêt.  The meristematic cells of Syringa vulgaris L., are obtained from in vitro culture of cells of Syringa vulgaris L. In vitro plant cell culture technologies began in 1939 with the demonstration of obtaining calli which are clusters of undifferentiated cells also called meristematic cells. Their production on an industrial scale goes back to the 1990s (Trevor A. Thorpe, History of Plant Tissue Culture, Molecular Biotechnology, 2007, 37, 2, 169-180 ([2])). The principle consists, from a plant sample, to dedifferentiate the constituent cells of the sample, then induce the cell multiplication of these meristematic cells. The goal is to increase the biomass so that the cells are recovered whole, or fragmented with a high concentration of metabolites of interest.
Les « métabolites », au sens de la présente invention, des composés ou molécules produits par des cellules méristématiques de Syringa vulgaris L.. Il peut s'agit de métabolites primaires, par exemples des sucres, protéines/acides aminés et/ou des lipides. Alternativement ou complémentairement, il peut s'agir de métabolites secondaires comme par exemple des polyphénols, des terpènes et/ou d'alcaloïdes (Bruneton J, Pharmacognosie-plantes médicinales, 5eme édition, Lavoisier, 2016 ([3])). Il est ensuite possible de récupérer les cellules (ou fragments de cellules) pour les incorporer en tant qu'actifs cosmétiques ou alors une étape supplémentaire peut être réalisée dans le but d'extraire et de récupérer les métabolites des cellules sous une forme plus ou moins purifiée. De nombreux avantages existent en ce qui concerne l'utilisation de la culture cellulaire in- vitro pour produire des actifs cosmétiques : la possibilité de fragmenter les cellules permet d'avoir avantageusement accès aux macromolécules de la paroi cellulaire et il est également possible de rajouter dans le milieu de culture des précurseurs métaboliques pour induire la production de métabolites et ainsi les concentrer dans le milieu intra-cellulaire (Franck DiCosmo and Masanaru Misawa, Plant cell and tissue culture : alternatives for metabolite production, Biotechnology Advances 1995, 13, 425-453 ([4])). Par exemple, les cellules méristématiques de Syringa vulgaris L. peuvent être obtenues, mises en culture et conservées selon les méthodes décrites dans les brevets EP1736167 ([5]) et EP2319914 ([6]). The "metabolites", within the meaning of the present invention, of the compounds or molecules produced by meristematic cells of Syringa vulgaris L. These may be primary metabolites, for example sugars, proteins / amino acids and / or lipids. . Alternatively or additionally, these may be secondary metabolites such as polyphenols, terpenes and / or alkaloids (Bruneton J, Pharmacognosie-medicinal plants, 5th edition, Lavoisier, 2016 ([3])). It is then possible to recover the cells (or fragments of cells) to incorporate them as cosmetic assets or else an additional step can be performed for the purpose of extracting and recovering the metabolites of the cells in a more or less purified. Many advantages exist with regard to the use of the cell culture. in vitro to produce cosmetic actives: the possibility of fragmenting the cells makes it possible to advantageously have access to the macromolecules of the cell wall, and it is also possible to add metabolic precursors to the culture medium in order to induce the production of metabolites and thus to concentrate them. in the intracellular medium (Franck DiCosmo and Masanaru Misawa, Plant Cell and Tissue Culture: Alternatives for Metabolite Production, Biotechnology Advances 1995, 13, 425-453 ([4])). For example, meristematic cells of Syringa vulgaris L. can be obtained, cultured and preserved according to the methods described in EP1736167 ([5]) and EP2319914 ([6]).
Les cellules méristématiques de Syringa vulgaris L peuvent appartenir à la lignée cellulaire Syringa vulgaris IRB-SV25/B DSMZ, déposée le 15/09/2004 à la DMSZ (Deutsche Sammlung Von Mikroorganismen and Zelikulturen, Inhoffenstr. 7B, D-38124 Braunscheid, Allemagne) sous le numéro DSM 16857 par la société IRB (Instituto di Richerche Biotechnologiche S.p.A, 7 Via Lago di Tovel, 36077 Altavilla Vicentina (VI), Italie). Cette lignée cellulaire est décrite dans le document EP1736167 ([5]).  The meristematic cells of Syringa vulgaris L may belong to the cell line Syringa vulgaris IRB-SV25 / B DSMZ, deposited on 15/09/2004 at DMSZ (Deutsche Sammlung von Mikroorganismen und Zelikulturen, Inhoffenstrasse 7B, D-38124 Braunscheid, Germany ) under the number DSM 16857 by the company IRB (Institute for Research Biotechnology SpA, 7 Via Lago di Tovel, 36077 Altavilla Vicentina (VI), Italy). This cell line is described in EP1736167 ([5]).
Avantageusement, l'extrait peut être constitué de cellules méristématiques de Syringa vulgaris L. constitué des parois cellulaires desdites cellules et/ou du contenu cellulaire desdites cellules.  Advantageously, the extract may consist of meristematic cells of Syringa vulgaris L. consisting of cell walls of said cells and / or the cellular content of said cells.
Dans la présente invention, le ou les constituants de l'extrait peu(ven)t être issu(s) de la lyse d'une culture cellulaire de cellules méristématiques entières de Syringa vulgaris L..  In the present invention, the constituent (s) of the extract may be derived from the lysis of a cell culture of whole meristematic cells of Syringa vulgaris L.
Par exemple, les cellules méristématiques de Syringa vulgaris L. peuvent être mises en culture selon la méthode décrite dans le brevet For example, the meristematic cells of Syringa vulgaris L. can be cultured according to the method described in the patent
EP1736167 ([5]) puis lysées de façon à obtenir deux fractions distinctes : une fraction A constituée de fragments de parois cellulaires et une fraction B constituée du contenu cellulaire. Les fractions A et/ou B peuvent éventuellement être mises en suspension dans la glycérine pour obtenir une préparation glycérinée de cellules méristématiques de Syringa vulgaris L. Par exemple, la fraction A et la fraction B peuvent être présents dans l'extrait dans un ratio allant de 1 :99 à 99 :1 , par exemple être un ratio d'environ 50 :50. Avantageusement, le contenu cellulaire contient tout ou partie des métabolites tels que décrits ci-avant. EP1736167 ([5]) and then lysed to obtain two distinct fractions: a fraction A consisting of cell wall fragments and a fraction B consisting of cell contents. Fractions A and / or B may optionally be suspended in glycerine to obtain a glycerolated preparation of meristematic cells of Syringa vulgaris L. For example, fraction A and fraction B may be present in the extract in a ratio ranging from from 1: 99 to 99: 1, for example being a ratio of about 50:50. Advantageously, the cellular content contains all or part of the metabolites as described above.
Un extrait selon l'invention est susceptible d'être préparé selon le procédé comprenant les étapes de :  An extract according to the invention is capable of being prepared according to the process comprising the steps of:
a) culture cellulaire in-vitro, obtention de cellules méristématiques entières,  a) cell culture in vitro, obtaining whole meristematic cells,
b) lyse desdites cellules de l'étape a) par procédé haute pression,  b) lysis of said cells of step a) by high pressure process,
c) filtration desdites cellules lysées à l'étape c),  c) filtering said lysed cells in step c),
d) association du retentât qui contient les parois cellulaires des cellules lysées et du filtrat qui contient le contenu cellulaire des cellules lysées, et  d) combining the retentate which contains the cell walls of the lysed cells and the filtrate which contains the cell contents of the lysed cells, and
e) mise en suspension dudit rétentât et dudit filtrat dans la glycérine avec ajout de gomme xanthane et d'acide citrique.  e) suspending said retentate and said filtrate in glycerine with addition of xanthan gum and citric acid.
Selon l'invention, les cellules méristématiques de Syringa vulgaris L. peuvent être sous toute forme appropriée, notamment dans le cadre d'une utilisation cosmétique ou dermatologique. Par exemple, les cellules méristématiques de Syringa vulgaris L. peuvent être entières ou lysées. Elles peuvent être mise en suspension sous forme liquide ou être séché. Sous forme liquide, le solvant utilisé peut être choisi parmi le propylène glycol, le butylène glycol, le méthylpropanediol, le propane-1 .3-diol, la glycérine, un solvant eutectique composé de molécules d'origine végétale ou naturelle comme ceux décrit dans le document FR3017292 ([7]) ou un mélange de ces solvants, cette liste n'étant pas limitative. Les mélanges de ces solvants peuvent être réalisés dans toutes les proportions possibles. Sous forme sèche, la préparation de cellules peut être obtenue par évaporation sous vide, par atomisation, par lyophilisation ou par tout autre moyen approprié connu de l'homme du métier. According to the invention, the meristematic cells of Syringa vulgaris L. may be in any suitable form, especially in the context of a cosmetic or dermatological use. For example, meristematic cells of Syringa vulgaris L. may be whole or lysed. They can be suspended in liquid form or dried. In liquid form, the solvent used may be chosen from propylene glycol, butylene glycol, methylpropanediol, propane-1,3-diol and glycerine, a eutectic solvent composed of molecules of plant or natural origin, such as those described in US Pat. the document FR3017292 ([7]) or a mixture of these solvents, this list not being limiting. The mixtures of these solvents can be made in any possible proportion. In dry form, the cell preparation can be obtained by evaporation under vacuum, by spraying, freeze-drying or by any other appropriate means known to those skilled in the art.
On entend par « utilisation cosmétique », au sens de la présente invention, toute utilisation visant à mettre en contact l'extrait de cellules méristématiques de Syringa vulgaris L. avec une partie superficielle du corps humain, par exemple, l'épiderme, les organes externes ou les muqueuses externes, pour une action sur l'aspect de la peau. Il peut s'agir notamment d'une action esthétique sur la peau, ou une action visant à restaurer une sensation de confort des peaux sensibles/réactives. L'utilisation cosmétique présente, de manière avantageuse, une action calmante, apaisante, adoucissante et apportant des bénéfices de confort, apaisante de la peau et/ou des muqueuses sensibles et/ou réactives. For the purpose of the present invention, the term "cosmetic use" is intended to mean any use intended to bring the meristematic cell extract of Syringa vulgaris L. into contact with a superficial part of the human body, for example the epidermis, the organs external or mucous membranes external, for an action on the appearance of the skin. This may include an aesthetic action on the skin, or an action to restore a feeling of comfort of sensitive / reactive skin. The cosmetic use advantageously has a calming, soothing, softening and providing benefits of comfort, soothing of the skin and / or sensitive and / or reactive mucosa.
On entend par « action apaisante », au sens de la présente invention, au moins une action choisie parmi l'atténuation des rougeurs diffuses, l'amélioration du teint, la restitution du teint, la restitution du grain de peau, la restitution de éclat de la peau, la restitution d'une luminosité de la peau plus uniforme, la diminution des sensations de tiraillements, d'inconfort, de picotements, de chaleur diffuse, d'irritabilité de la peau. Par action apaisante, au sens de la présente invention, on peut entendre une action de type antiinflammatoire à encontre des sensations désagréables ressenties par les sujets à peau sensible/réactive. Cette réaction peut s'expliquer par une diminution de l'expression des médiateurs pro-inflammatoires induits consécutivement à un stress de quelque nature que ce soit à l'origine des sensations désagréables ressenties par les sujets. Il peut s'agir par exemple de l'expression de l'interleukine 6 (IL6), ou du Tumor Necrosis Factor alpha (TNFa) produits par les kératinocytes épidermiques.  For the purposes of the present invention, the term "soothing action" is intended to mean at least one action chosen from the attenuation of diffuse redness, the improvement of the complexion, the restoration of the complexion, the restoration of the skin texture, the return of radiance from the skin, restoring a more uniform skin brightness, reducing feelings of tightness, discomfort, tingling, diffuse heat, irritability of the skin. By soothing action, within the meaning of the present invention, one can hear an anti-inflammatory type action against unpleasant sensations felt by subjects with sensitive / reactive skin. This reaction can be explained by a decrease in the expression of pro-inflammatory mediators induced following stress of any nature that causes the unpleasant sensations felt by the subjects. It may be for example the expression of interleukin 6 (IL6) or Tumor Necrosis factor alpha (TNFα) produced by epidermal keratinocytes.
On entend par « peaux ou muqueuses sensibles et/ ou réactives » au sens de l'invention, toute peau ou muqueuse sujette à des sensations d'inconfort pouvant se manifester par des rougeurs plus ou moins diffuses et localisées, des démangeaisons, des tiraillements, des irritations, des sensations d'échauffement. Ces sensations d'inconfort peuvent être dues à des agressions extérieures comme le stress hydrique, le stress thermique, les rayonnements UV, le vent, la pollution ou les irritations par frottements. Ces sensations peuvent être passagères ou récurrentes. En tout état de cause, ces sensations ne sont pas assimilées à une pathologie de la peau.  The term "skins or mucous membranes sensitive and / or reactive" in the sense of the invention, any skin or mucosa subject to sensations of discomfort may manifest by redness more or less diffuse and localized, itching, tugging, irritations, sensations of warming up. These sensations of discomfort may be due to external aggressions such as water stress, heat stress, UV radiation, wind, pollution or chafing irritation. These sensations can be transient or recurrent. In any case, these sensations are not assimilated to a pathology of the skin.
On entend par « muqueuse », au sens de la présente invention, notamment les muqueuses externes comme les lèvres. On entend par « adoucissant », au sens de la présente invention, l'obtention d'un effet plus soyeux de la peau au toucher après utilisation de l'extrait, et/ou une diminution de l'effet de rugosité de la peau au toucher. For the purposes of the present invention, the term "mucosa" is intended to mean in particular external mucous membranes such as the lips. For the purposes of the present invention, the term "softener" means obtaining a more silky effect of the skin upon touching after use of the extract, and / or a reduction in the roughness effect of the skin on the skin. to touch.
On entend par « améliorer l'éclat de la peau », au sens de la présente invention, l'obtention d'une peau plus lumineuse. Cet effet peut être observé qualitativement, par exemple visuellement, ou quantitativement, par exemple par des études de Chromamétrie où les composantes L*a*b* sont mesurées. For the purposes of the present invention, the term "improving the brightness of the skin" is intended to mean obtaining a brighter skin. This effect can be observed qualitatively, for example visually, or quantitatively, for example by chromometric studies where the L * a * b * components are measured.
On entend par « améliorer l'homogénéité de la couleur de la peau », au sens de la présente invention, l'obtention d'une couleur plus homogène après utilisation de l'extrait sur la peau notamment via une meilleure répartition de la composante rouge de la peau, par une limitation des rougeurs.  For the purposes of the present invention, the term "improve the homogeneity of the skin color" is intended to obtain a more homogeneous color after use of the extract on the skin, in particular via a better distribution of the red component. of the skin, by a limitation of redness.
On entend par « composition cosmétique », dans la présente invention, toute composition à visée cosmétique, c'est à dire esthétique, une composition pouvant être mise en contact avec les parties superficielles du corps humain, par exemple l'épiderme, les systèmes pileux et capillaires. Avantageusement, une composition cosmétique permet, exclusivement ou principalement de les protéger, de parfumer, de maintenir en bon état, de modifier leur aspect ou en corriger les défauts superficiels.  In the present invention, the term "cosmetic composition" is intended to mean any cosmetic composition, that is to say aesthetic, a composition that can be brought into contact with the superficial parts of the human body, for example the epidermis, the hair systems and capillaries. Advantageously, a cosmetic composition makes it possible, exclusively or mainly to protect them, to perfume, to maintain in good condition, to modify their appearance or to correct their superficial defects.
Dans la présente invention, on entend par « composition dermatologique » toute composition à visée dermatologique, c'est à dire une composition pouvant être mise en contact avec les parties superficielles du corps humain, pour un traitement de la peau, des muqueuses, et des phanères, comme les ongles, les cheveux, ou les poils. Une telle composition peut comprendre des actifs additionnels autres que l'extrait de cellules méristématiques de Syringa vulgaris L, susceptibles d'être qualifiés de dermatologiques ou thérapeutiques, ce qui explique la qualité de « dermatologique » de la composition.  In the present invention, the term "dermatological composition" is intended to mean any composition for dermatological purposes, that is to say a composition which can be brought into contact with the superficial parts of the human body, for a treatment of the skin, mucous membranes, and dander, such as nails, hair, or hair. Such a composition may comprise additional active agents other than the extract of meristematic cells of Syringa vulgaris L, which may be described as dermatological or therapeutic, which explains the "dermatological" quality of the composition.
Par « véhicule cosmétiquement ou dermatologiquement acceptable », on entend un véhicule adapté pour une utilisation en contact avec des cellules humaines et animales cutanées, en particulier les cellules de l'épiderme, sans toxicité, irritation, réponse allergique indue et similaire, et proportionné à un rapport avantage/risque raisonnable. Le véhicule cosmétiquement acceptable peut être choisi parmi l'eau, l'allantoïne, la glycérine, le méthylpropanediol ; cette liste n'étant pas limitative. By "cosmetically or dermatologically acceptable vehicle" is meant a vehicle adapted for use in contact with cutaneous human and animal cells, in particular the cells of the epidermis, without toxicity, irritation, undue allergic response and the like, and proportionate to a reasonable benefit / risk ratio. The cosmetically acceptable vehicle may be selected from water, allantoin, glycerin, methylpropanediol; this list is not limiting.
La composition de l'invention peut être obtenue par tout procédé approprié et connu de l'homme du métier pour la fabrication d'une composition cosmétique. Il peut s'agir, par exemple d'un simple mélange. Il peut s'agir alternativement, par exemple, d'un procédé comprenant une étape d'incorporation d'une phase interne dans une phase externe au moyen d'un émulseur, par exemple d'une turbine de type rotor-stator. Il peut s'agir également par exemple d'un procédé utilisant la Température d'Inversion de Phase (TIP), ce procédé étant classiquement utilisé par l'homme de l'art pour obtenir des émulsions huile dans eau dont les gouttelettes dispersées sont particulièrement fines, par exemple avec un diamètre de 0,1 à 1 μιτι.  The composition of the invention can be obtained by any suitable method known to those skilled in the art for the manufacture of a cosmetic composition. It may be, for example a simple mixture. It may be alternatively, for example, a method comprising a step of incorporating an internal phase into an external phase by means of an emulsifier, for example a rotor-stator type turbine. It may also be for example a method using Phase Inversion Temperature (TIP), this method being conventionally used by those skilled in the art to obtain oil-in-water emulsions whose dispersed droplets are particularly thin, for example with a diameter of 0.1 to 1 μιτι.
Selon l'invention, la composition cosmétique ou dermatologique peut comprendre 0,00001 à 5 % en poids dudit extrait ou dudit mélange par association d'extraits de cellules méristématiques de Syringa vulgaris L. par rapport au poids total de la composition, par exemple de 0,0001 à 5,0 % en poids, ou de 0,001 à 5,0 % en poids, ou de 0,01 à 5,0 % en poids ou de 0,1 à 5,0 % en poids, ou de 1 ,0 à 5,0 % en poids, ou de 2,0 à 4,0 % en poids dudit extrait de cellules méristématiques de Syringa vulgaris L. par rapport au poids total de la composition.  According to the invention, the cosmetic or dermatological composition may comprise 0.00001 to 5% by weight of said extract or said mixture by association of meristematic cell extracts of Syringa vulgaris L. relative to the total weight of the composition, for example 0.0001 to 5.0% by weight, or 0.001 to 5.0% by weight, or 0.01 to 5.0% by weight or 0.1 to 5.0% by weight, or 1 to 5.0% by weight, or 0 to 5.0% by weight, or 2.0 to 4.0% by weight of said meristematic cell extract of Syringa vulgaris L. relative to the total weight of the composition.
La composition cosmétique ou dermatologique de la présente invention peut se trouver sous toute forme appropriée pour une application cosmétique ou dermatologique. Avantageusement, la composition peut être une composition à usage topique.  The cosmetic or dermatological composition of the present invention may be in any form suitable for cosmetic or dermatological application. Advantageously, the composition may be a composition for topical use.
Il peut s'agir par exemple d'une composition sous une forme choisie dans le groupe comprenant une émulsion huile dans eau ou eau dans huile ou un mélange de ces émulsions.  It may be for example a composition in a form selected from the group consisting of an oil-in-water or water-in-oil emulsion or a mixture of these emulsions.
Selon l'invention, la composition cosmétique ou dermatologique peut par exemple se trouver sous une forme choisie dans le groupe comprenant un gel aqueux ou hydroalcoolique, une crème aqueuse ou hydroalcoolique et une lotion aqueuse ou hydroalcoolique. Ces formulations utilisables pour la mise en œuvre de la présente invention sont connues dans l'état de la technique par les formulateurs. Dans ces exemples de composition, il suffit d'ajouter l'extrait ou l'association d'extraits de cellules méristématiques de Syringa vulgaris L. de la présente invention pour obtenir une composition conforme à la présente invention. According to the invention, the cosmetic or dermatological composition may, for example, be in a form chosen from the group comprising an aqueous or aqueous-alcoholic gel, an aqueous or aqueous-alcoholic cream and an aqueous or hydroalcoholic lotion. These formulations that can be used for the implementation of the present invention are known in the state of the art. by the formulators. In these examples of composition, it is sufficient to add the extract or combination of meristematic cell extracts of Syringa vulgaris L. of the present invention to obtain a composition according to the present invention.
Selon l'invention, la composition peut être sous une forme choisie parmi un onguent, une crème, une huile, un lait, une pommade, une poudre, un tampon imbibé, une solution, un gel, un sérum, un baume, un beurre, une lotion, une suspension, un savon ou une émulsion.  According to the invention, the composition may be in a form chosen from an ointment, a cream, an oil, a milk, an ointment, a powder, a soaked swab, a solution, a gel, a serum, a balm or a butter. , a lotion, a suspension, a soap or an emulsion.
L'extrait de la présente invention peut être utilisé dans une composition cosmétique ou dermatologique seul ou en combinaison avec d'autres substances ou ingrédients actifs ou inactifs cosmétiquement ou dermatologiquement. Les substances ou ingrédients inactifs sont ceux qui n'agissent pas cosmétiquement ou dermatologiquement. Il s'agit des éléments de la composition permettant notamment d'accompagner l'extrait, de constituer une formulation particulière, de conserver l'extrait actif dans le temps, cette liste n'étant pas limitative. Il peut s'agir en d'autres termes de tout produit de base pouvant se trouver dans les compositions cosmétiques ou dermatologiques classiques. Par opposition, les substances ou ingrédients actifs sont ceux qui dans l'application cosmétique ou dermatologique visée ont une action esthétique et/ou médicale.  The extract of the present invention may be used in a cosmetic or dermatological composition alone or in combination with other substances or ingredients that are active or inactive cosmetically or dermatologically. Inactive substances or ingredients are those that do not act cosmetically or dermatologically. It is about the elements of the composition allowing in particular to accompany the extract, to constitute a particular formulation, to preserve the active extract in the time, this list not being limiting. It can be in other words any basic product that can be found in conventional cosmetic or dermatological compositions. In contrast, the active substances or ingredients are those which in the cosmetic or dermatological application referred to have an aesthetic and / or medical action.
Ainsi, l'extrait de cellules méristématiques de Syringa vulgaris L. de la présente invention, peut être la seule substance ou ingrédient actif d'une composition, ou il peut être associé à d'autres substances ou ingrédients actifs d'une composition cosmétique ou dermatologique.  Thus, the meristematic cell extract of Syringa vulgaris L. of the present invention, may be the only substance or active ingredient of a composition, or it may be associated with other substances or active ingredients of a cosmetic composition or dermatology.
Le procédé de soin cosmétique ou dermatologique de l'invention permet notamment d'apporter un effet apaisant et/ou d'améliorer les qualités de surface de la peau, par exemple au moins un effet choisi parmi l'atténuation des rougeurs diffuses, l'amélioration de l'uniformité du teint, du grain de peau, la diminution des sensations de tiraillements, de picotements, de chaleur diffuse, d'irritabilité.  The cosmetic or dermatological treatment method of the invention makes it possible in particular to provide a soothing effect and / or to improve the surface qualities of the skin, for example at least one effect selected from the attenuation of diffuse redness, improvement of the uniformity of the complexion, the grain of skin, the diminution of the feelings of tightness, tingling, diffuse heat, irritability.
Dans le cadre des procédés cosmétiques selon l'invention, ou de l'utilisation selon l'invention, l'utilisation s'entend d'une utilisation non- thérapeutique, par exemple pour le traitement des peaux normales, c'est-à- dire des peaux ne présentant pas un état pathologique, à l'exclusion de toute utilisation thérapeutique. In the context of the cosmetic processes according to the invention, or of the use according to the invention, the use means a non-therapeutic use, for example for the treatment of normal skin, that is to say skin that does not present a pathological condition, to the exclusion of any therapeutic use.
Ainsi, toute utilisation cosmétique et tout procédé cosmétique selon l'invention sont respectivement des utilisations cosmétiques non- thérapeutiques et procédés cosmétiques non-thérapeutiques. Thus, any cosmetic use and any cosmetic process according to the invention are respectively non-therapeutic cosmetic uses and non-therapeutic cosmetic processes.
D'autres avantages pourront encore apparaître à l'homme du métier à la lecture des exemples ci-dessous, donnés à titre illustratif. Other advantages may still appear to those skilled in the art on reading the examples below, given for illustrative purposes.
EXEMPLES EXAMPLES
Exemple 1 : Préparation d'extrait de cellules méristématiques de Syringa vulgaris L. Example 1 Preparation of meristematic cell extract of Syringa vulgaris L.
Dans les exemples suivants, la préparation d'une suspension glycérinée de cellules méristématiques de Syringa vulgaris L a été préparé comme suit, et conformément au protocole décrit dans le document EP1736167 ([5]).  In the following examples, the preparation of a glycerine suspension of meristematic cells of Syringa vulgaris L was prepared as follows, and according to the protocol described in EP1736167 ([5]).
1 - Culture cellulaire in-vitro, des cellules de la lignée DSM 16857 pour l'obtention de cellules méristématiques entières. Les cellules cultivées sur un milieu solide (GAMBORG B5 dans une agarose à 1 % supplémentée avec 20 g / 1 de saccharose, 2 g / 1 de peptone végétale, 1 mg / 1 de kinétine, 1 mg / 1 d'acide naphtalène acétique, 0,2 mg / 1 d'acide indolacétique à pH 6,5) sont inoculées dans des flacons de 20 x 300 ml, chacun contenant 50 ml de milieu liquide (GAMBORG B5 supplémenté avec 20 g / 1 de saccharose, 2 g / 1 de plante peptone, 1 mg / 1 de kinéine, 1 mg / 1 d'acide naphtalénacétique, 0,2 mg / 1 d'acide indolacétique à pH 6,5). Après la fermentation pendant 7 jours, les cultures sont utilisées pour inoculer également des flacons de 1000 ml contenant chacun 250 ml de milieu liquide qui sont ensuite déchargés après une période de 14 jours. La biomasse est combinée.  1 - In vitro cell culture, cells of the DSM 16857 line for obtaining whole meristematic cells. The cells cultured on a solid medium (GAMBORG B5 in a 1% agarose supplemented with 20 g / l of sucrose, 2 g / l of plant peptone, 1 mg / l of kinetin, 1 mg / l of naphthalene acetic acid, 0.2 mg / l of indolacetic acid at pH 6.5) are inoculated into 20 x 300 ml flasks, each containing 50 ml of liquid medium (GAMBORG B5 supplemented with 20 g / l of sucrose, 2 g / l of peptone plant, 1 mg / 1 of kinin, 1 mg / l of naphthaleneacetic acid, 0.2 mg / l of indolacetic acid at pH 6.5). After fermentation for 7 days, the cultures are used to inoculate also 1000 ml flasks each containing 250 ml of liquid medium which are then discharged after a period of 14 days. Biomass is combined.
2- Lyse des cellules par procédé haute pression à l'aide d'un ultraturrax. 2- Lysis of the cells by high pressure process using an ultraturrax.
3- Filtration des cellules lysées à travers une maille de nylon avec une porosité d'au moins 100 μιτι. 4- Le retentât qui contient les parois cellulaires des cellules lysées est appelé fraction A 3- Filtration of the lysed cells through a nylon mesh with a porosity of at least 100 μιτι. 4- The retentate that contains the cell walls of lysed cells is called fraction A
5- Le filtrat qui contient le contenu cellulaire des cellules lysées est appelé fraction B  5- The filtrate which contains the cell contents of the lysed cells is called fraction B
6- Les fractions A et B sont associées et mises en suspension dans la glycérine (>80% en poids) avec ajout de gomme xanthane (stabilisant) et d'acide citrique (conservateur).  6- Fractions A and B are combined and suspended in glycerin (> 80% by weight) with addition of xanthan gum (stabilizer) and citric acid (preservative).
Pour les exemples suivants, les retentât et le filtrat sont associés et mis en suspension dans la glycérine à hauteur de 10%.  For the following examples, the retentate and the filtrate are combined and suspended in glycerin at a level of 10%.
Exemple 2 : Effet de l'association des deux extraits de cellules méristématiques de Syringa vulgaris L. obtenus dans l'Exemple 1 sur l'expression de médiateurs pro-inflammatoires EXAMPLE 2 Effect of the Combination of the Two Extracts of Syrista vulgaris L. Meristematic Cells Obtained in Example 1 on the Expression of Proinflammatory Mediators
L'inflammation cutanée est un phénomène complexe mettant en jeu toutes les cellules de la peau et des cellules sanguines. L'une des premières étapes est l'expression de médiateurs pro-inflammatoires, notamment, l'interleukine 6 (IL-6) et le tumor necrosis factor alpha (TNFa) par les kératinocytes sous l'action d'un stress.  Skin inflammation is a complex phenomenon involving all skin cells and blood cells. One of the first steps is the expression of pro-inflammatory mediators, especially interleukin 6 (IL-6) and tumor necrosis factor alpha (TNFa) by the keratinocytes under the action of stress.
Les études ont été réalisées sur des kératinocytes épidermiques humains normaux, obtenus à partir de plasties abdominales, ensemencés en monocouche dans les conditions de culture adéquates, à savoir dans un milieu KSFM (Kératinocytes sérum free médium, Invitrogen) à une température de 37°C, sous atmosphère à 5% de CÛ2 et saturée en humidité. Les cellules ont été traitées avec l'extrait de cellules meristématique de Syringa vulgaris L. (à 10A% ou 10"3 %). The studies were carried out on normal human epidermal keratinocytes, obtained from abdominal plasties, seeded in a monolayer under the appropriate culture conditions, namely in a medium KSFM (free-serum keratinocytes serum, Invitrogen) at a temperature of 37 ° C. under a 5% CO 2 atmosphere and saturated with moisture. The cells were treated with the extract of Syringa vulgaris L. meristem cells (10 A or 10% "3%).
Après 24h de traitement avec les extraits, les cellules sont soumises aux radiations du simulateur solaire à raison de 760W/m2 (Suntest CPS+). Puis 24 h après irradiation, les surnageants sont récoltés et les expressions de NL6 et du TNFa sont mesurées grâce à un test ELISA commercialisé par Bender MedSystem (BMS213INSTCE pour IL6 et BMS223INSTCE pour le TNFa). Ces résultats sont analysés qu regard de la viabilité résiduelle des cellules (dosage d'activité mitochondriale au MTT). After 24 hours of treatment with the extracts, the cells are subjected to radiation from the solar simulator at a rate of 760W / m 2 (Suntest CPS +). Then, 24 hours after irradiation, the supernatants are harvested and the expressions of NL6 and TNFα are measured by means of an ELISA test marketed by Bender MedSystem (BMS213INSTCE for IL6 and BMS223INSTCE for TNFα). These results are analyzed with respect to the residual viability of the cells (MTT mitochondrial activity assay).
Les données du tableau I ci-dessous résument les résultats obtenus. Tableau I Expression de l'IL6 et du TNFa après irradiation des kératinocytes. The data in Table I below summarize the results obtained. Table I Expression of IL6 and TNFa after irradiation of keratinocytes.
Figure imgf000016_0001
Figure imgf000016_0001
Plaque témoin Plaque irradiée Control plate Irradiated plate
non irradiée  not irradiated
[IL-6] [TNFa] [IL-6] [TNFa] % [IL-6] [TNFα] [IL-6] [TNFα]%
% IL6  % IL6
pg/ml pg/ml pg/ml pg/ml TNFa pg / ml μg / ml μg / ml μg / ml TNFα
Témoin milieu Middle witness
97,6 85,4 415,3 100 275,8 100 de culture  97.6 85.4 415.3 100 275.8 100 of culture
Association  Association
Fractions 10" 74,0 81 ,4 221 ,7 47 229,3 83Fractions 10 " 74.0 81, 4 221, 7 47 229.3 83
4% 4 %
Association  Association
Fractions 10" 62,9 60,7 270,3 35 261 ,3 95Fractions 10 " 62.9 60.7 270.3 35 261, 3 95
3% Cet exemple montre que les deux fractions (A ou B) présentent chacune une action antiinflammatoire anti-IL6 et anti-TNF. 3 % This example shows that the two fractions (A or B) each have an anti-inflammatory anti-IL6 and anti-TNF action.
Il démontre aussi que le traitement avec l'association des extraits (fractions A + B) de cellules méristématiques de Syringa vulgaris L. dans le milieu de culture présente un effet anti-inflammatoire puisque le traitement permet de limiter l'expression des messagers pro-inflammatoires jusqu'à 65% pour l'IL6 à 10"3% d'extraits et jusqu'à 17% pour le TNFa à 10"4% d'extraits. De plus, cette association d'extraits présente un effet supérieur sur l'inhibition de l'expression de NL6 par rapport aux extraits pris séparément. It also demonstrates that the treatment with the combination of extracts (fractions A + B) of meristematic cells of Syringa vulgaris L. in the culture medium has an anti-inflammatory effect since the treatment makes it possible to limit the expression of the messengers pro inflammatory up to 65% for IL-6 10 "3% of extracts and up to 17% for the TNFa 10" 4% previews. In addition, this combination of extracts has a greater effect on the inhibition of NL6 expression than extracts taken separately.
Exemple 3 : Formulation de l'extrait de cellules méristématiques deEXAMPLE 3 Formulation of Meristematic Cell Extract
Syringa vulgaris L. dans un soin de type sérum Syringa vulgaris L. in a serum care
PourcentagePercentage
Composants components
(% en poids) (% in weight)
Eau qsp 100Water qs 100
Glycérine 5,000Glycerin 5,000
Jus d'/A/oe barbadensis 5,000Juice from / A / oe barbadensis 5,000
Sorbitol 4,000Sorbitol 4,000
Huile de noix de coco 5,000Coconut oil 5,000
Alcool 2,800Alcohol 2,800
Stéarate de sorbitane 1 ,700Sorbitan stearate 1, 700
Extrait d'Acer saccharum 1 ,400Acer saccharum extract 1, 400
Beurre de Butyrospermum parkii 1 ,100Butter of Butyrospermum parkii 1, 100
Extrait d 'Agave tequilana 1 ,000Extract of Agave tequilana 1, 000
Alcool stéarylique (Octadécanol) 0,700 cellules méristématiques de Syringa vulgaris 1 ,000Stearyl alcohol (Octadecanol) 0.700 meristematic cells of Syringa vulgaris 1, 000
Parfum 0,400Perfume 0.400
Acide salicylique 0,300Salicylic acid 0.300
Gomme xanthane 0,300Xanthan Gum 0.300
Acide sorbique 0,150 Soude 0,120Sorbic acid 0.150 Soda 0.120
Acétate de tocophérol 0,100Tocopherol acetate 0.100
Mangiférine 1 Mangiferin 1
Exemple 4 : Formulation de l'extrait de cellules méristématiques de Syrinqa vulqaris L. dans un soin de jour EXAMPLE 4 Formulation of the Syristqa Vulqaris L. Meristematic Cell Extract in a Day Care
PourcentagePercentage
Composants components
(% en poids) (% in weight)
Eau qsp 100Water qs 100
Glycérine 5,000Glycerin 5,000
Huile de Coco 5,000Coconut oil 5,000
Huile de Helianthus annuus 3,000Oil of Helianthus annuus 3,000
Myristate de myristyle 2,000Myristate of myristyle 2,000
Huile de sésame 2,000Sesame oil 2,000
Acide stéarique 1 ,500Stearic acid 1, 500
Eau ô'Hamamelis virginiana 1 ,100Water of Hamamelis virginiana 1, 100
Stéarate de glycérol AE 1 ,000 cellules méristématiques de Syringa vulgaris 0,500AE glycerol stearate 1, 000 meristematic cells of Syringa vulgaris 0.500
Parfum 0,500Perfume 0.500
Eau de Calendula officinalis 2 Water of Calendula officinalis 2
Gomme xanthane 0,150 0.150 xanthan gum
Acide sorbique 0,100Sorbic acid 0.100
Allantoïne 0,100Allantoin 0.100
Acétate de tocophérol 0,100Tocopherol acetate 0.100
Soude 0,030Soda 0.030
Mangiférine 1 ,000 Exemple 5 : Formulation de l'extrait de cellules méristématiques deMangiferin 1, 000 EXAMPLE 5 Formulation of Meristematic Cell Extract
Syrinqa vulqaris L. dans un soin de nuit.Syrinqa vulqaris L. in a night care.
Figure imgf000019_0001
Figure imgf000019_0001
RÉFÉRENCES BIBLIOGRAPHIQUES BIBLIOGRAPHIC REFERENCES
Su et al., Phytochennical and pharmacological progress on the genus Syringa. Chemistry Central Journal, 2015, 9, 2. Su et al., Phytochennial and Pharmacological Progress on the Syringa Genus. Chemistry Central Journal, 2015, 9, 2.
Trevor A.Thorpe. History of plant tissue culture. Molecular biotechnology, 2007, 37, 2, 169-180. Trevor A.Thorpe. History of plant tissue culture. Molecular biotechnology, 2007, 37, 2, 169-180.
Bruneton J, Pharmacognosie-plantes médicinales, 5eme édition, Lavoisier, 2016.  Bruneton J, Pharmacognosy-medicinal plants, 5th edition, Lavoisier, 2016.
Franck DiCosmo and Masanaru Misawa, Plant cell and tissue culture : alternatives for metabolite production, Biotechnology Franck DiCosmo and Masanaru Misawa, Plant cell and tissue culture: alternatives for metabolite production, Biotechnology
Advances 1995, 13, 425-453. Advances 1995, 13, 425-453.
EP1736167.  EP1736167.
EP2319914.  EP2319914.
FR3017292.  FR3017292.

Claims

REVENDICATIONS
1 . Extrait de cellules méristématiques de Syringa vulgaris L. constitué des parois cellulaires desdites cellules et/ou du contenu cellulaire desdites cellules. 1. Extract of meristematic cells of Syringa vulgaris L. consisting of cell walls of said cells and / or the cellular content of said cells.
2. Extrait selon la revendication 1 , dans lequel ledit ou lesdits constituant(s) est/sont issu(s) de la lyse d'une culture cellulaire de cellules méristématiques entières de Syringa vulgaris L. 2. Extract according to claim 1, wherein said component (s) is (are) derived from the lysis of a cell culture of whole meristematic cells of Syringa vulgaris L.
3. Extrait selon la revendication 1 ou 2, susceptible d'être préparé selon le procédé comprenant les étapes de : 3. Extract according to claim 1 or 2, capable of being prepared according to the process comprising the steps of:
a) culture cellulaire in-vitro, obtention de cellules méristématiques entières,  a) cell culture in vitro, obtaining whole meristematic cells,
b) lyse desdites cellules de l'étape a) par procédé haute pression, c) filtration desdites cellules lysées à l'étape b),  b) lysis of said cells of step a) by high pressure process, c) filtration of said lysed cells in step b),
d) association du retentât qui contient les parois cellulaires des cellules lysées et du filtrat qui contient le contenu cellulaire des cellules lysées, et  d) combining the retentate which contains the cell walls of the lysed cells and the filtrate which contains the cell contents of the lysed cells, and
e) mise en suspension dudit rétentât et dudit filtrat dans la glycérine avec ajout de gomme xanthane et d'acide citrique.  e) suspending said retentate and said filtrate in glycerine with addition of xanthan gum and citric acid.
4. Utilisation cosmétique d'un extrait de cellules méristématiques de Syringa vulgaris L. tel que défini dans l'une quelconque des revendications 1 à 3, pour une action apaisante de la peau et/ou des muqueuses. 4. Cosmetic use of an extract of meristematic cells of Syringa vulgaris L. as defined in any one of claims 1 to 3, for a soothing action of the skin and / or mucous membranes.
5. Utilisation cosmétique selon la revendication 4, dans laquelle ladite peau est une peau normale ou une peau sensible ou une peau réactive. 5. Cosmetic use according to claim 4, wherein said skin is a normal skin or a sensitive skin or a reactive skin.
6. Utilisation cosmétique selon la revendication 4 ou 5, dans laquelle l'action apaisante est au moins une action choisie parmi une atténuation des rougeurs diffuses, une amélioration de l'uniformité du teint et/ou du grain de peau, et une diminution des sensations de tiraillements, picotements, chaleur diffuse ou irritabilité de la peau ou des muqueuses. 6. Cosmetic use according to claim 4 or 5, wherein the soothing action is at least one action selected from an attenuation of diffuse redness, an improvement in the uniformity of the complexion and / or the grain of the skin. skin, and decreased feelings of tightness, tingling, diffuse heat or irritability of the skin or mucous membranes.
7. Utilisation cosmétique selon l'une quelconque des revendications 4 à 6, dans laquelle l'action apaisante est une action d'inhibition de l'expression des médiateurs de l'inflammation IL6 et/ou TNFa. 7. Cosmetic use according to any one of claims 4 to 6, wherein the soothing action is an action for inhibiting the expression of IL6 and / or TNFa mediators of inflammation.
8. Composition cosmétique ou dermatologique comprenant un extrait de cellules méristématiques de Syringa vulgaris L. tel que défini dans l'une quelconque des revendications 1 à 3, et un véhicule cosmétiquement et/ou dermatologiquement acceptable, ladite composition comprenant 0,00001 à 5 % en poids dudit extrait de cellules méristématiques de Syringa vulgaris L. par rapport au poids total de la composition. 8. Cosmetic or dermatological composition comprising an extract of meristematic cells of Syringa vulgaris L. as defined in any one of claims 1 to 3, and a cosmetically and / or dermatologically acceptable vehicle, said composition comprising 0.00001 to 5% by weight of said meristematic cell extract of Syringa vulgaris L. relative to the total weight of the composition.
9. Composition selon la revendication 8, dans laquelle ladite composition est sous une forme choisie parmi un onguent, une crème, une huile, un lait, une pommade, une poudre, un tampon imbibé, une solution, un gel, un sérum, un baume, un beurre, une lotion, une suspension, un savon ou une émulsion. The composition of claim 8 wherein said composition is in a form selected from an ointment, a cream, an oil, a milk, an ointment, a powder, a soaked swab, a solution, a gel, a serum, a balm, butter, lotion, suspension, soap or emulsion.
10. Dispositif se présentant sous une forme choisie parmi un pot, un flacon-pompe, une lingette, un masque, un dispositif transdermique, un patch, un spray, ledit dispositif comprenant une composition selon l'une quelconque des revendications 8 ou 9. 10. Device in a form selected from a pot, a pump bottle, a wipe, a mask, a transdermal device, a patch, a spray, said device comprising a composition according to any one of claims 8 or 9.
1 1 . Procédé cosmétique pour adoucir et/ou apaiser la peau, comprenant une application sur la peau d'une composition cosmétique selon l'une quelconque des revendications 8 ou 9 ou d'un extrait tel que défini dans l'une quelconque des revendications 1 à 3. 1 1. Cosmetic process for softening and / or soothing the skin, comprising an application on the skin of a cosmetic composition according to any one of Claims 8 or 9 or of an extract as defined in any one of Claims 1 to 3 .
12. Utilisation d'une composition cosmétique ou dermatologique telle que définie dans l'une quelconque des revendications 8 ou 9, pour l'amélioration de l'aspect la peau d'un sujet. 12. Use of a cosmetic or dermatological composition as defined in any one of claims 8 or 9, for improving the appearance of the skin of a subject.
13. Procédé de préparation d'une composition cosmétique ou dermatologique telle que définie dans la revendication 8 ou 9, comprenant le mélange d'un extrait de cellules méristématiques de Syringa vulgaris L. tel que défini dans l'une quelconque des revendications 1 à 3 et d'un véhicule cosmétiquement ou dermatologiquement acceptable. 13. A process for the preparation of a cosmetic or dermatological composition as defined in claim 8 or 9, comprising mixing a meristematic cell extract of Syringa vulgaris L. as defined in any one of claims 1 to 3. and a cosmetically or dermatologically acceptable vehicle.
PCT/FR2018/052351 2017-09-27 2018-09-25 Cosmetic use of syringa vulgaris l. meristematic cells for a soothing and/or softening action on the skin WO2019063929A1 (en)

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