WO2018097304A1

WO2018097304A1 - Keratin fiber treatment composition

Info

Publication number: WO2018097304A1
Application number: PCT/JP2017/042482
Authority: WO
Inventors: 亮介土居; 祐樹上谷
Original assignee: 株式会社資生堂
Priority date: 2016-11-28
Filing date: 2017-11-28
Publication date: 2018-05-31
Also published as: CN109862871A; JP7161407B2; TW201829021A; AU2017364814A1; KR20190089853A; SG11201901985XA; JPWO2018097304A1

Abstract

The purpose of the present invention is to provide a keratin fiber treatment composition that is capable of retaining the shape (style) of keratin fibers over an extended period of time and that also has an exceptional feel on use. The present invention pertains to a keratin fiber treatment composition characterized by containing a sugar alcohol. This keratin fiber treatment composition preferably also contains one or both urea and/or a urea derivative or a hair-styling resin. The pH of this keratin fiber treatment composition is preferably within the range of 4.0-7.5.

Description

Keratin fiber treatment composition

The present invention relates to a keratin fiber treatment composition. More specifically, the present invention relates to a keratin fiber treatment composition that forms a keratin fiber, in particular, a hair or eyelash style, can hold the style for a long time, and is excellent in usability.

Keratin fibers, especially hair, are routinely styled as desired by curling or straightening with a hot hairstyling tool such as a hair iron or iron. However, the styling is temporary and the style will be lost over time. Moreover, there also existed a problem of giving damage to hair by processing at high temperature.

In order to solve the above problems, various hair cosmetics (hair styling agents) have been proposed for the purpose of maintaining the formed hairstyle for a long time or repairing hair damage.

Patent Document 1 describes a hair treatment composition containing glucose, a carboxylic acid having a limited number of carbon atoms and pKa, and benzyl alcohol and having a pH of 2.5 to 4. Although it is said that this hair treatment composition can suppress the hair damage by a high temperature hairdressing instrument, nothing is mentioned about the improvement of the hairstyling (styling) effect. Further, such a strongly acidic composition (pH = 2.5 to 4) also has a problem that when urea having a water retention function is blended, it decomposes and produces an unpleasant odor.

Patent Document 2 contains (A) an amine oxide group-containing resin having a specific structure, and (B) one or more selected from basic amino acids, acidic amino acids, pyrrolidone carboxylic acids, urea, and pantothenyl alcohols. Hair cosmetics are disclosed, and are particularly excellent in setting properties, set holding power, and the effect of preventing hair damage due to heat when making a wave using curlers or hot curlers. However, in cosmetics that retain their style with resin, there are cases where the resin feels stiff (bad fingering).

On the other hand, Patent Document 3 discloses a styling cosmetic comprising a specific ratio of (a) hydrolyzed keratin having an average molecular weight of 25000 to 35000, and (b) a fraction protein derived from wool or human hair. It is said that it can hold styling well without giving

As for eyelashes, it is described that the adhesion to the eyelashes and the curling effect are improved by adding hydrolyzed silk, which is a protein hydrolyzate, as in Patent Literature 3 (Patent Literature 4). However, in the cosmetic of Patent Document 4, it is necessary to add a volume feeling by blending wax or resin.

That is, many of these conventional cosmetics depend on a resin blended with the formation and retention of a shape (style), and a stiff feel due to the resin cannot be avoided. Moreover, although the resin is not indispensable in the cosmetics of Patent Document 3, it is not sufficient in terms of the achieved style retention and use feeling.

Japanese Patent No. 5779399 Japanese Patent No. 4136965 Japanese Patent No. 4881567 JP 2016-41673 A

Therefore, an object of the present invention is to provide a keratin fiber treatment composition that can maintain the shape (style) of keratin fibers including hair and eyelashes over a long period of time, and that is excellent in use feeling.

As a result of intensive studies to solve the above problems, the present inventors have found for the first time that sugar alcohol has a keratin fiber styling function. As a result, the present invention has been completed based on the knowledge that by using a composition containing a sugar alcohol, it is excellent in the effect of maintaining the style of keratin fibers over a long period of time, and the feeling of use is also improved. .

That is, the present invention provides a keratin fiber treatment composition characterized by containing a sugar alcohol.
The keratin fiber treatment composition of the present invention preferably further contains one or both of urea and / or a urea derivative or a hair styling resin. The keratin fiber treatment composition of the present invention preferably has a pH in the range of 4.0 to 7.5.

The applied keratin fiber treatment composition of the present invention is applied to keratin fibers such as hair or eyelashes, and preferably styling under heating, whereby the formed style is maintained for a long period of time. Furthermore, the keratin fiber treatment composition of the present invention is extremely excellent in use feeling when applied.

The keratin fiber treatment composition according to the present invention (hereinafter also simply referred to as “treatment composition”) contains a sugar alcohol as an essential component.
The “keratin fiber” in the present invention is a fibrous keratin substance and is intended for styling, particularly hair and eyelashes.

The sugar alcohol that is an essential component of the present invention may be any one that can be blended in cosmetics for keratin fibers, for example, one or more selected from erythritol, sorbitol, maltitol, mannitol, and xylitol. is there. Of these, erythritol is particularly effective.

Sugar alcohol has been blended as a “wetting agent” or “humectant” in conventional hair cosmetics and the like, but sugar alcohol has a keratin fiber styling function, that is, it is effective as a keratin fiber styling agent. Something has been found for the first time in the present invention.

The compounding amount of the sugar alcohol in the treatment composition of the present invention is 0.1 mass% or more and 5.0 mass% or less, preferably 0.2 to 3.0 mass%, more preferably 0.5 to 2.0 mass%. % By mass. When the blending amount is less than 0.1% by mass, a sufficient styling retention effect cannot be obtained, and when the blending amount is 5.0% by mass or more, stickiness tends to occur.

The treatment composition of the present invention is an aqueous base in which a sugar alcohol is dissolved in an aqueous medium, and is preferably in the form of a solubilized aqueous composition or an oil-in-water emulsion composition.

The treatment composition of the present invention preferably further contains urea and / or a urea derivative, which further improves the styling setting power.

A urea derivative is a compound having a structure in which at least one hydrogen atom of urea is substituted with a functional group such as an alkyl group. Preferably, it is a compound in which at least one hydrogen atom is substituted with a hydroxyalkyl group having 1 to 10 carbon atoms, and examples thereof include hydroxyethylurea, hydroxymethylurea, hydroxypropylurea and the like.

The blending amount of urea and / or urea derivative in the treatment composition of the present invention is 0.1% by mass or more and 5.0% by mass or less, preferably 0.2 to 3.0% by mass, more preferably 0.5% by mass. It is -2.0 mass%. If the blending amount is less than 0.1% by mass, the effect of improving the setting force by addition cannot be obtained.

When a hair-styling resin is further added to the treatment composition of the present invention, curling is improved particularly in a high temperature and high humidity environment. The hair styling resin used in the present invention includes an amphoteric polymer resin compound, a cationic polymer resin compound, an anionic polymer resin compound, and a nonionic polymer resin compound. More than one species can be selected as appropriate. Among these, it is preferable to mix an anionic resin.

Examples of the amphoteric polymer resin compound include the general formula (I):

(Where n: m = 2: 8 to 8: 2 and molecular weight is in the range of 50,000 to 500,000. R ¹ and R ⁶ are hydrogen atoms or methyl groups, R ³ and R ⁴ are 1 to An alkyl group having 4 carbon atoms, R ² and R ⁵ are alkylene groups having 1 to 4 carbon atoms, R ⁷ is a saturated or unsaturated alkyl group having 1 to 24 carbon atoms, A is Dialkylaminoethyl acrylate, dialkylaminoethyl methacrylate, diacetone acrylamide, etc. represented by oxygen atom or NH group, or acrylic acid, methacrylic acid, alkyl acrylate ester, alkyl methacrylate ester, etc. A compound obtained by copolymerization and amphoteric with halogenated acetic acid [commercial product: Yucaformer AM75 (manufactured by Mitsubishi Chemical Corporation)] Hydroxypropyl acrylate represented by Akzo Nobel), butylaminoethyl methacrylate, there is octyl acrylate amide copolymer.

Examples of the cationic polymer resin compound include poly [dimethyldiallylammonium halide] type cationic polymer represented by Marquat 100 (manufactured by Lubrizol), dimethyldiallylammonium halide and acrylamide represented by Marquat 550 (manufactured by Lubrizol). A quaternary nitrogen-containing cellulose ether represented by a polymer cationic polymer, polymer JR-400, polymer JR-125 and polymer JR-30M (manufactured by Union Carbide), polycoat H (manufactured by Henkel) Polyethylene glycol, epichlorohydrin, propyleneamine, taroylamino copolymer represented by Polyethylene glycol, epichlorohydrin, coconut oil Kiruamin, dipropylene triamine copolymers, H. C. Vinylpyrrolidone and dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate copolymer represented by polymer 1,1N, 2, HCP-3A (above, manufactured by Osaka Organic Chemical Industry Co., Ltd.), Guff Coat 755 and 734 (above, made by ISP Corporation) There are cationized substances.

Nonionic polymer resin compounds include, for example, vinyl pyrrolidone and vinyl acetate represented by PVP / VA (manufactured by ISP), Rubiscol VA (manufactured by BASF) and PVA6450 (manufactured by Osaka Organic Chemical Industry). Copolymer, polyvinyl pyrrolidone represented by PVPK (manufactured by ISPP) and rubiscol K (manufactured by BASF), rubiflex D4101 (manufactured by BASF), polyvinyl alcohol, vinylpyrrolidone-vinyl acetate-alkylaminoethyl acrylate Examples thereof include polymers, hydroxyethyl cellulose, hydroxypropyl cellulose, hydroxypropyl methyl cellulose, methyl cellulose, ethyl cellulose, dextrin, galactan, and pullulan.

Specific examples of anionic polymer resin compounds include anionic block copolymers such as Diahold A-403 (manufactured by Mitsubishi Chemical), Aniset, KB-1000, KB-100H, B-1015, HS- 3000 (above, manufactured by Osaka Organic Chemical Industry Co., Ltd.), plus size L-33, L-53, L-9909B and L-6330 (above, produced by Kyoyo Chemical Industry Co., Ltd.) (Acrylates / alkyl methacrylate (C12,13) / methoxyethyl acrylate) crosspolymer, alkyl acrylate copolymer AMP, (acrylates / alkyl acrylate (C1-18) / alkyl (C1-8) acrylamide) copolymer AMP, ( Acrylates / diacetone acrylamide) copolymer, etc.), B Methyl vinyl ether and maleic acid monoalkyl ester represented by EM-42S, WEM-22S (above, Osaka Organic Chemical Industry Co., Ltd.), GANTREZ ES-425, ES-225, ES-33 (above, ISPE Co., Ltd.) Copolymer, resin 28-1310, resin 28-2930 (manufactured by Akzo Nobel), rubiset CE5055 (BASF), vinyl acetate / crotonic acid copolymer, Ultrahold 8 (BASF) ), A copolymer of acrylic acid, alkyl acrylate ester and N-alkyl acrylamide, carboxymethyl cellulose, carboxyvinyl polymer, xanthan gum, carrageenan, sodium alginate, gum arabic, pectin and the like.

Note that the above is merely an example, and the hair-styling resin in the present invention is not limited to these. In the present invention, anionic acrylic polymer resins such as block polymers described in JP2012-162519A are particularly preferably used.

The blending amount of the hairdressing resin in the treatment composition of the present invention is 0.01% by mass or more and 2.0% by mass or less, preferably 0.01 to 1.0% by mass, more preferably 0.01 to 0.5%. % By mass. If the blending amount is less than 0.01% by mass, the improvement effect due to the addition cannot be obtained, and if the blending amount exceeds 2.0% by mass, the resin becomes stiff and a light and soft feel cannot be obtained.

The treatment composition of the present invention is preferably adjusted to have a pH within the range of 4.0 to 7.5, more preferably 4.3 to 7.2, and still more preferably 4.6 to 7.0. It is a range. By setting the pH within the above range, the coating is not sticky at the time of application, and the light and soft feel is further improved.

The pH of the treatment composition of the present invention can be adjusted by adding a pH adjuster (including an acidifying agent, a basifying agent, and a buffer system) that can be usually added to cosmetics and the like. Examples of buffer systems include, but are not limited to, lactic acid / sodium lactate.

In addition, the treatment composition of the present invention can contain an amino acid, particularly an aliphatic amino acid, especially L-alanine, and the styling retention effect can be further improved by adding it.

In the treatment composition of the present invention, other components that can be blended in the composition for treatment of keratin fibers such as hair and eyelashes, particularly styling, may be blended within a range not impeding the effects of the present invention. Examples of other components include polyhydric alcohols, lower alcohols, surfactants, higher alcohols, saccharides (monosaccharides, disaccharides such as trehalose, oligosaccharides), ceramides, phospholipids, plant extracts, silicones, and silicone derivatives. , Various dyes, sequestering agents, preservatives, ultraviolet absorbers, antioxidants, fragrances and the like.

The treatment composition of the present invention can be used as a hair styling or styling cosmetic that does not wash away to form a curled or straight style on keratin fibers such as hair and eyelashes. The dosage form is not particularly limited, and various forms such as liquid, mist, cream, gel, foam, and aerosol can be used.

The treatment composition of the present invention is capable of forming a keratin fiber style, preferably under heating.
As a specific method of use, for example, the treatment composition of the present invention may be applied to keratin fibers such as hair and eyelashes, and styled with a hair iron, hot curler, rod, buhler or the like. The heating temperature is preferably 40 to 200 ° C, and the hair is preferably within the range of 160 to 200 ° C. Then, optionally, a blow set by a dryer may be applied.

Hereinafter, the present invention will be described in more detail with reference to examples, but the present invention is not limited to these examples. Unless otherwise specified, the blending amount is represented by mass% with respect to the total amount of the composition in which the component is blended.

Keratin fiber treatment compositions were prepared according to the formulations listed in Tables 1 to 3 below. The composition (sample) of each example was used by a specialized panel, and the following items (1) to (6) were evaluated according to the following methods and criteria.
(1) Setting power (ability to style hair as desired)
(2) Holding the curl (ability to keep the formed curl shape)
(3) No stickiness when applied (no sticky feel when applying sample to hair)
(4) No curling of curls (After curling, there is no sense of stiffness when a finger is passed through the hair bundle along the hair flow, which can be said to be “good fingering”)
(5) Softness of the curl (soft feel of the curl formed)
(6) Light curl (light feel of the curl formed)

<Evaluation method and evaluation criteria>
(1) Setting power (curl forming ability)
A sample of 0.3 g of each example was evenly applied to a hair bundle consisting of 10 cm long hair (1 g), allowed to dry naturally for 2 hours, wound around a hair iron set at 180 ° C., and removed from the hair iron. The apparent length (L1) of the bundle was measured. Based on the measured value (L1), the setting force was defined by the following equation with the ideal value (100%) that the diameter of the curled hair bundle coincided with the diameter of the hair iron (L0).
Setting force (%) = 100− (L1−L0) ÷ (10−L0) × 100
(The closer this value is to 100%, the higher the set power is.)
A ++: Setting force is 70% or more A +: Setting force is 60% or more A: Setting force is 50% or more B: Setting force is less than 50%

(2) Holding the curl (keep strength)
The hair bundle set (curled) in the same manner as in (1) above is hung with one end fixed in a constant temperature and humidity chamber at 25 ° C. and 80% humidity, taken out after 120 minutes, and the apparent length (L2) of the hair bundle again. ) Was measured. Based on the measured value (L2), the curl holding force (keep force) was defined by the following equation.
Keeping force (%) = 100− (L2−L0) ÷ (10−L0) × 100
(The larger the value, the better the curl holding force.)
A ++: Keeping force is 25% or more A +: Keeping force is 20% or more A: Keeping force is 10% or more B: Keeping force is less than 10%

(3) to (6) Other evaluation items A use test was conducted by 10 expert panelists. The samples of each example were picked up and applied to the hair, and there was no stickiness after curl formation. The pod lightness was evaluated based on the following evaluation criteria.
(Evaluation criteria)
5 points: Recognized 4 points: Slightly recognizable 3 points: Slightly recognizable 2 points: Not recognizable 0 points: Not recognizable
A +: The total score is 40 or more A: The total score is 25 or more and less than 40 B: The total score is less than 25

As shown in Table 1, Examples 1 to 3 containing erythritol, sorbitol, or maltitol, which are sugar alcohols, were excellent in all items. Among them, erythritol was the best. In contrast, in Comparative Examples 1 and 2 in which glucose, which is a monosaccharide, or hydrolyzed keratin described in Patent Document 3 was blended, the curl was particularly poor.

As shown in Table 2, the setting power was further improved by blending urea in addition to sugar alcohol (Example 4). In Examples 5 to 9 in which the pH of the composition containing sugar alcohol alone or a combination of sugar alcohol and urea was adjusted to 4.0 to 7.5, curl retention was particularly excellent. Examples 6 and 7, which were adjusted to a range of .6 to 7.0, were extremely excellent (A +) in all the evaluated items.

In contrast to these examples, in Comparative Examples 3 and 4, which achieved good curl retention by blending 2% by mass of the amine oxide group-containing resin (cationic resin) described in Patent Document 2, Regardless of the presence or absence of alcohol and urea, there was stickiness at the time of application, and the resin was wrinkled, and a soft and light feeling of use was not obtained.

From the results shown in Table 3, when urea and L-alanine were added in addition to sugar alcohol (erythritol), all the evaluation items were extremely excellent. Even when anionic hair styling resin was added to these compositions up to 2% by mass, no stickiness or stiff feel was produced during application, and a soft and light curl was formed. On the other hand, in Comparative Examples 5 and 6 in which only the anionic hair-styling resin was blended without blending the sugar alcohol, a stiff feel was produced and a soft curl could not be obtained.

Claims

A keratin fiber treatment composition comprising a sugar alcohol.
The keratin fiber treatment composition according to claim 1, further comprising urea and / or a urea derivative.
The keratin fiber treatment composition according to claim 1, further comprising a hair styling resin.
The keratin fiber treatment composition according to claim 1, further comprising urea and / or a urea derivative and a hair styling resin.
The keratin fiber treatment composition according to any one of claims 1 to 4, wherein the pH of the composition is in the range of 4.0 to 7.5.
The keratin fiber treatment composition according to any one of claims 1 to 5, wherein the sugar alcohol is erythritol.
The keratin fiber treatment composition according to any one of claims 3 to 6, wherein the hair styling resin is an anionic resin.
The keratin fiber treatment composition according to claim 7, wherein the anionic resin is a block copolymer.
The keratin fiber treatment composition according to any one of claims 3 to 8, wherein a blending amount of the hair styling resin is 2.0% by mass or less.
The keratin fiber treatment composition according to any one of claims 1 to 9, which is used for heat styling of hair.