WO2017215276A1 - 强发成分以及强发的方法 - Google Patents

强发成分以及强发的方法 Download PDF

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Publication number
WO2017215276A1
WO2017215276A1 PCT/CN2017/073366 CN2017073366W WO2017215276A1 WO 2017215276 A1 WO2017215276 A1 WO 2017215276A1 CN 2017073366 W CN2017073366 W CN 2017073366W WO 2017215276 A1 WO2017215276 A1 WO 2017215276A1
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Prior art keywords
acid
hair
formulation
bifunctional
component
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PCT/CN2017/073366
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English (en)
French (fr)
Inventor
萨宾 瓦格娜
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知识产权全资产有限公司
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Priority to US16/310,061 priority Critical patent/US20190192398A1/en
Publication of WO2017215276A1 publication Critical patent/WO2017215276A1/zh

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    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/33—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
    • A61K8/36—Carboxylic acids; Salts or anhydrides thereof
    • A61K8/365—Hydroxycarboxylic acids; Ketocarboxylic acids
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/33—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
    • A61K8/37—Esters of carboxylic acids
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/33—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
    • A61K8/36—Carboxylic acids; Salts or anhydrides thereof
    • A61K8/362—Polycarboxylic acids
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/33—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
    • A61K8/36—Carboxylic acids; Salts or anhydrides thereof
    • A61K8/368—Carboxylic acids; Salts or anhydrides thereof with carboxyl groups directly bound to carbon atoms of aromatic rings
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/40—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing nitrogen
    • A61K8/41—Amines
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/40—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing nitrogen
    • A61K8/43—Guanidines
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q5/00—Preparations for care of the hair
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q5/00—Preparations for care of the hair
    • A61Q5/06—Preparations for styling the hair, e.g. by temporary shaping or colouring
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q5/00—Preparations for care of the hair
    • A61Q5/08—Preparations for bleaching the hair
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q5/00—Preparations for care of the hair
    • A61Q5/10—Preparations for permanently dyeing the hair
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q5/00—Preparations for care of the hair
    • A61Q5/12—Preparations containing hair conditioners
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K2800/00—Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
    • A61K2800/80—Process related aspects concerning the preparation of the cosmetic composition or the storage or application thereof
    • A61K2800/88—Two- or multipart kits
    • A61K2800/882—Mixing prior to application

Definitions

  • the present invention relates to a method, composition and test kit for strong hair, comprising providing a component capable of crosslinking an amino acid in a keratin fiber and mixing the ingredient with a commercially available dyeing agent or bleaching agent .
  • the present invention relates to an agent for treating hair comprising a bifunctional active ingredient which reacts with an amino group in the hair to improve the quality of the hair in various aspects and to significantly increase the durability of the curl.
  • the invention also relates to a method of improving the state of the hair.
  • Hair care ingredients that make carding easy are very important. Such care ingredients are typically applied to the still moist hair in the form of a clear hair care cleanser or in the form of an emulsion, which is applied for a few minutes to an hour and then washed off with water.
  • the hair care method described above is only effective for dry hair and porous hair.
  • hair that is rapidly liquefied its effect is not significant, because the hair is more oily after use, resulting in a hair style that does not last long.
  • the long-term hair style depends on the disulfide bridge, the disulfide bond is unstable, and is reduced to a sulfhydryl group under reducing conditions.
  • the present invention provides a novel hair treatment agent suitable for shaping a hair style that lasts for a long time.
  • the present inventors have surprisingly found that hair treatment agents can meet the above requirements when they contain the following combinations:
  • a a first formulation having at least one bifunctional organic acid that can react with an amino group in the hair (step 1), and
  • b a second formulation having at least a bifunctional Bronsted base of the formula XRY wherein X and Y are proton acceptors and R is one having 1 to 20 carbon atoms and 0 to 5 oxygen An atom, and an organic spacer of 0 to 5 nitrogen atoms, the molecular weight of XRY is less than 500 g/mol (step 2), It is characterized in that the pH of the formulation (a) is from 7 to 12, the pH of the formulation (b) is from 1.5 to 7, and the formulation a) is used before the formulation b).
  • the weight percent of the bifunctional broncosine in both the bifunctional organic acid and the bifunctional organic acid is from 0.01 to 30%.
  • Organic and inorganic acids and bases can be used to adjust the pH of the first second formulation.
  • the pH adjusting agent can be single or multifunctional.
  • the at least bifunctional brunium base is selected from the group consisting of 1,4-butanediamine, 1,5-diaminopentane, N-3-aminopropyl-1,4-butanediamine, N, N' - bis(3-aminopropyl)-1,4-butanediamine, 2-(4-aminobutyl)anthracene, and mixtures thereof.
  • the proton acceptor X and Y of at least bifunctional brysonine in step (b) are independently selected from the group consisting of carboxylates, nitrates, hydrogen phosphates, phosphates, primary amines, secondary amines, tertiary amines, sulfates, and Carbonate.
  • the at least bifunctional organic acid described in step (a) is selected from the group consisting of oxalic acid, malonic acid, succinic acid, glutaric acid, adipic acid, pimelic acid, suberic acid, azelaic acid, sebacic acid, ten Monoalkane, dodecanedioic acid, methylmalonic acid, methyl succinic acid, methyl glutaric acid, aspartic acid, maleic acid, fumaric acid, itaconic acid, medium Kang acid, methyl maleic acid, phthalic acid, isophthalic acid, terephthalic acid, malic acid, oxalic acid, ketone heptanoic acid, citric acid, isocitric acid, aconitic acid, propyl-1, 2,3-propanetricarboxylic acid, trimesic acid, methyltetracarboxylic acid, ethylenetetracarboxylic acid, meso-butane-1,2,3,4
  • the hair can be dried between step (a) and step (b) for a period of from 1 to 60 minutes.
  • the hair is dried by a drying device.
  • the formulation stays on the hair for a period of from 1 to 45 minutes.
  • step (a) and step (b) are separately mixed separately into a carrier wherein the carrier in formula (a) is the same or different than the carrier in formula (b).
  • the formulation in step (a) is incorporated into a commercially available dye or bleach prior to use to the hair.
  • the formulation of step (b) may also be admixed with a commercially available dye or bleach when the steps of use are reversed.
  • the hair is treated with a hair care component containing thioglycolic acid for treating curly hair.
  • the present invention relates to a method for strengthening hair and/or repairing hair comprising the steps of: (a) applying a formulation to the hair having at least a bifunctional Bronsted base of the formula XRY, wherein X and Y are proton acceptors, R is an organic spacer having 1 to 20 carbon atoms, 0 to 5 oxygen atoms, and 0 to 5 nitrogen atoms, and the molecular weight of XRY is less than 500 g/mol, and it is in the hair.
  • the strong hair formula in step (a) is mixed into a commercially available dye or bleach prior to use to the hair.
  • Water-soluble means that a solution which is judged to be clear by the naked eye can be formed in water at a concentration of 0.1% at 25 °C.
  • substantially no refers to less than 1%, or less than 0.8%, or less than 0.5%, or less than 0.3%, or about 0% of the total ingredients or formulations.
  • keratin fiber refers to a fiber composed of keratin.
  • “Hair” refers to keratin fibers of mammals.
  • “hair” refers to a person's hair.
  • “hair shaft” or “hair fiber” refers to a single line of hair that can be used interchangeably with the term “hair”.
  • cosmetically acceptable refers to the ingredients described, and the formulation can be contacted with human keratin tissue without undue toxicity.
  • monomer refers to a single, unpolymerized, chemical unit that can form macromolecules by polymerization under certain conditions.
  • Polymer means a compound obtained by polymerizing two or more monomers.
  • Polymer shall include all compounds which are polymerized from monomers and natural polymers. The polymer is called a homopolymer. The homopolymer contains at least two monomers. A polymer polymerized from two or more different monomers is called a copolymer. The distribution of different monomers can be random and alternate. Or block (such as a block copolymer).
  • Polymer in the present invention refers to any polymer, including homopolymers and copolymers.
  • kit refers to a package containing multiple components. It can also be referred to as a "sub-kit.”
  • the kit can be a first component, and a second component that is separately packaged, and a guide to use that can be included.
  • the present invention describes a method of enhancing keratin fibers while providing excellent tactile feel to the treated hair, and imparts good dyeing and bleaching performance to hair when dyed and bleached with commercial hair.
  • the method achieves a semi-permanent strengthening effect and at the same time gives the hair an excellent touch by using a fortifying formula on the hair or by combining the formulation with a commercially available hair dye or bleaching ingredient.
  • the method contains two different formulations, one of which has a pH greater than 7, and the other has a pH of less than 7.
  • the first formula is alkaline and the second formula is acidic.
  • the hair strengthening effect is maintained at least once after shampooing.
  • this method increases the water resistance and moisture resistance of the hair style and increases the plasticity of the hair after using the shampoo. When mixed with commercially available dyes or bleaches, there is no adverse effect on hair dyeing and bleaching.
  • the above effects are derived from the steps used, the order of these steps, and the specific ingredients including the active agent.
  • the active ingredient in the acidic formulation diffuses into the hair shaft of the keratin fiber, and in the keratin polypeptide
  • the amino group reacts and crosslinks functional groups in the keratin structure by providing sufficient cross-linking to counteract the instinctive restoring forces in keratin.
  • the active ingredient in the acidic formulation diffuses into the keratin fibers in the hair shaft, reacts with the carboxylic acid groups in the keratin polypeptide and crosslinks these functional groups. This can form a strengthening of the stability of keratin, for example, long-term effective repair of hair damage.
  • the first formulation is basic, it blends well with commercially available dyeing and bleaching formulations without affecting the performance of these products.
  • the pH of the second formulation is less than 7, which prevents the hair from expanding in an alkaline environment. The swelling of the hair in an alkaline environment causes the stratum corneum to rupture and develop dry, resulting in rough hair, which needs to be avoided.
  • the crosslinking components of the present invention are different from each other and act synergistically.
  • the order of use plays an important role in its effect. In order to achieve the desired strong hair effect and make the hair feel good, it is important to use an alkaline formula and then use an acidic formula. Use an alkaline formula to swell the hair. When inflated, the hair keratin is lifted and developed dry, resulting in a rough touch of the hair, reducing the smoothness and gloss of the hair, because the hair cannot be aligned to form a uniform surface to reflect light.
  • the use of an acidic strong hair component after an alkaline strong hair component can reduce the need to use ingredients that smooth the hair, as these ingredients are often considered to be very oily and unnatural.
  • hair dyes and bleaches contain a pH adjusting component that makes the pH alkaline.
  • a change in pH of 0.5 causes a change in the final color of the hair.
  • a pH change of more than 0.5 will reduce bleaching. Therefore, when it is desired to add additives to commercially available hair dyes and bleaches, it is important that these additives do not alter the pH of the hair dye and bleach.
  • Commercially available hair dyes and bleaches have a pH of from 8 to 12, so it is important to mix them with the alkaline ingredients of the present invention. Furthermore, it is important that the active ingredients in the alkaline formulation do not react with commercially available dye components and form other products.
  • the formulation of the present invention is intended to be mixed with commercially available hair dyes and bleaches
  • the mixed formulation is used first, followed by the unmixed strong hair component.
  • the bicomponent broncosamic acid of the first component does not react with commercially available hair coloring components, or intermediates produced during hair dyeing, and is therefore safe to use.
  • the hair itself has a buffering capacity sufficient to allow bifunctional Brons citric acid to react with the amino groups in the hair.
  • the first strong hair component has a pH of 7 to 12, ensuring that there is no color change when it is mixed with a commercially available hair dye and that it is not reduced when mixed with commercially available bleaching ingredients.
  • the acidic strong hair component (b) is generally used after the basic strong hair component (a), and contains at least bifunctional Bronsted acid as a crosslinking agent.
  • An organic or inorganic acidulant is used to adjust the pH of the bifunctional brysonine to 1.5 to 7.
  • the hair has a buffering capacity sufficient to crosslink at least bifunctional Brons sulphate with the carboxylic acid in the hair polypeptide.
  • the hair is washed and dried between the first step and the second step.
  • the at least bifunctional Bronsted acid and at least the bifunctional broncosine accounted for from 0.01 to 30% by weight, preferably from 0.1 to 30%, more preferably from 0.5 to 25%, more preferably by weight of the total constituents. It is from 1 to 20%, most preferably from 2 to 15%, and most preferably from 3 to 10%.
  • the acidic and basic cross-linking components each comprise a cosmetically acceptable carrier.
  • the cosmetically acceptable carrier can be any such that the active ingredient can be dispensed into the cross-linking component to enable it to be applied to the hair.
  • the carrier is a water soluble carrier, or a water soluble alcohol carrier.
  • the carrier when the carrier is a water soluble alcohol carrier, the carrier contains water and an alcohol.
  • the The alcohol is selected from the group consisting of ethanol, isopropanol, propanol, or a mixture thereof.
  • the carrier when the carrier is a water soluble carrier, the carrier contains primarily water and is substantially free of alcohol.
  • the acidic and basic cross-linking components each independently comprise a safe and effective amount of a cosmetically acceptable carrier. In at least one embodiment, the acidic and basic cross-linking components each independently comprise from about 0.1% to 99%, or from about 1% to 98%, or from about 10% to 97%, or about 30% of the cross-linking component. % to 95% water.
  • the acidic and basic cross-linking components may contain other ingredients.
  • the acidic and basic crosslinking components contain an antioxidant.
  • Antioxidants have a role in providing long-term cross-linking stability.
  • the acidic and basic cross-linking ingredients comprise from 0.001% to 5%, or from 0.5% to 1.0%, of an antioxidant.
  • the antioxidant is selected from the group consisting of ascorbic acid (vitamin C), fatty acid ascorbate, ascorbic acid derivatives (eg, magnesium ascorbyl phosphate, sodium ascorbyl phosphate, ascorbyl sorbate), vitamin E, tocopherol sorbitol Acid esters, tocopheryl acetate, other esters of tocopherol, butylhydroxybenzoic acid and its salts, peroxides, including hydrogen peroxide, perborates, thioglycolates, persulfates, 6-hydroxy- 2,5,7,8-tetramethyl-chroman-2-carboxylic acid (trade name Trolox TM), gallic acid and its alkyl esters, especially propyl gallate gallate, uric acid and its salts and alkyl esters , ferulic acid salts and alkyl esters, sorbic acid and its salts, lipoic acid, amines (eg, N-diethylhydroxylamine), eg,
  • the antioxidant is an ester of tocopheryl sorbate or tocopherol. In at least one embodiment, the antioxidant is sodium benzoate. In at least one embodiment, the antioxidant is ferulic acid. The advantage of ferulic acid is that it enhances the oxidative stability of the formulation. In at least one embodiment, the acidic and basic crosslinking components comprise a safe and effective amount of ferulic acid. In at least one embodiment, the cross-linking component contains from about 0.001% to 5%, or from about 0.5% to 1.0%, ferulic acid.
  • the acidic and basic crosslinking components comprise a chelating agent.
  • a chelating agent refers to an active material that can remove a metal ion from a system by forming a complex with it, such that these metal ions cannot participate in or catalyze a chemical reaction.
  • the chelating agent can increase the long-term stability of the cross-linking component.
  • the acidic and basic crosslinking components comprise a safe and effective amount of a chelating agent.
  • the acidic and basic cross-linking component comprises a chelating agent selected from the group consisting of N-hydroxysuccinimide, EDTA, NTA, deferoxamine, hydroxamic acid and salts thereof, Phytate, phytate, gluconic acid and salt, iron transfer protein, lactoferrin, and mixtures thereof.
  • the acidic and basic crosslinking components comprise a safe and effective amount of a chelating agent.
  • the acidic and basic cross-linking ingredients comprise from about 0.001% to 10%, or from about 0.01% to 5%, or from about 0.1% to 5%, or from about 0.5% to 1.0%, of a chelating agent.
  • chelating agent which can be used is disclosed in the patent document US Pat. No. 5,487,884, issued June 1996, January 30, by Bissett et al., International Patent Application No. 91/16035, filed by Bush deng, published On October 31, 1995, and the International Patent Application Document No. 91/16034, the author was Bush deng, published on October 31, 1995.
  • the chelating agent is selected from the group consisting of N-hydroxysuccinimide, deferoxamine, hydroxamic acid and salts thereof, phytic acid, gluconic acid, and derivatives thereof, and mixture.
  • the acidic and basic cross-linking component forms are suitable for use in hair.
  • the acidic and basic crosslinking component is an emulsion, a solution, or a dispersion.
  • the crosslinking component comprises a surfactant.
  • the surface is alive
  • the agent can make an emulsion.
  • the emulsion can be a water-oil emulsion, or an oil-water emulsion, or a multi-component emulsion. The advantage of the emulsion is that it is easy to use.
  • the acidic and alkaline crosslinking components may be either no-rinse or rinse-off.
  • the acidic and basic cross-linking components may also be in the form of a helper.
  • the acidic and alkaline cross-linking component may also contain at least one cosmetic component selected from the group consisting of a plastic hair polymer, a hair care component, a hair rinse component, or a mixture thereof.
  • the acidic and basic crosslinking components comprise a plastic hair polymer.
  • the plastic hair polymer is selected from the group consisting of nonionic plastic hair polymers, negative ion plastic hair polymers, zwitterionic plastic hair polymers, positive ion plastic hair polymers, or mixtures thereof.
  • the plastic hair polymer that can be used can be found in the 2008 CTFA International Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary Handbook, "Hair Styling Agent", version 12. Suitable plastic hair polymers are the polymers disclosed in European Patent Application No. 08151246.9, published on Feb. 11, 2008, at the first line on page 12, line 5 to page 19.
  • the acidic and basic cross-linking component comprises from about 0.01% to about 10%, or from about 0.1% to about 8%, or from about 0.1% to about 5% by weight of the plastic hair polymer.
  • the crosslinking component comprises a non-ionic plastic polymer.
  • the plasticizer is a natural or synthetic polymer.
  • the nonionic plastic hair polymer is selected from the group consisting of polymers polymerized from the following monomers: vinyl pyrrolidone, caprolactam ethylene, vinyl ester, vinyl alcohol, vinyl acetate, (meth) propylene An amide and/or a derivative thereof, (meth)acrylic acid, a salt thereof, and/or a derivative thereof, propylene, glycolic acid, crotonic acid, or a mixture thereof.
  • the commercial name for these polymers can be Or Luviset
  • the crosslinking component comprises an anion ion plastic polymer.
  • the negative ion plastic polymer is selected from the group consisting of: acrylic acid/alkyl acrylate/N-alkyl Acrylamide terpolymer, vinyl acetate/crotonic acid copolymer, C1-C5-alkyl acrylate/(meth)acrylic acid copolymer, sodium polystyrene sulfonate, vinyl acetate/butenoic acid/vinyl Alkanoate copolymer, vinyl acetate/crotonic acid/vinyl neodecanoate copolymer, aminomethylpropanol acrylic acid copolymer, vinylpyrrolidone/(meth)acrylic acid copolymer, methyl vinyl ether/horse Monoalkyl ester copolymer, aminomethylpropanolate/methacrylate copolymer of allyl methacrylate, ethyl acryl
  • the acidic and basic crosslinking components comprise a zwitterionic plastic hair polymer.
  • the zwitterionic plastic hair polymer is selected from the group consisting of: N-alkyl acrylamide / aliphatic amino alkyl methyl methacrylate / methacrylic acid copolymer, and monomers having a tertiary amine group; a copolymer of a polymer having an acid radical, a fatty alcohol acrylate, an alkylamine oxidized methacrylate, and a copolymer of at least one monomer of acrylic acid and methacrylic acid, polyquaternium-47, poly Quaternary ammonium salt-43, oligomer or polymer of croton betaine or croton beet ester, and mixtures thereof.
  • the acidic and basic crosslinking components comprise a positive ion plastic polymer.
  • the positive ion plastic polymer is a homopolymer or a copolymer in which a quaternary amine group is present in the polymer backbone or as a substituent for one or more cation monomers .
  • the ammonium group-containing monomer may be copolymerized with a non-positive monomer.
  • Suitable positive ions may be unsaturated polymerizable compounds which may contain at least one cation group, especially a vinyl ammonium salt, for example, a trialkyl methacryloxyalkyl ammonium, a trialkyl propylene
  • a vinyl ammonium salt for example, a trialkyl methacryloxyalkyl ammonium, a trialkyl propylene
  • An acyloxyalkylammonium, a dialkylammonium hexadienoammonium, and a quaternary ammonium vinylammonium monomer containing a cyclononyl group for example, a pyridine, an imidazolium salt, a quaternary pyrrolidone, such as an alkylvinylimidazolium salt, An alkyl vinyl pyridine, or an alkyl vinyl pyrrolidone salt.
  • the alkyl group in these monomers is preferably a low alkyl group such as a C1 to C7 alkyl group, and particularly preferably a C1 to C3 alkyl group.
  • Suitable non-positive monomer shells are selected from the group consisting of: methacrylamide and its derivatives, acrylates and derivatives thereof, vinyl caprolactone, vinyl caprolactam, vinyl pyrrolidone, vinyl ester, vinyl alcohol, propylene glycol, Ethylene glycol.
  • suitable cationic ionomers are polymers having the following trade names, Gafquat 755 N, Gafquat 734, Gafquat HS 100, Luviquat HM 550, Merquat Plus 3300, Gaffix VC 713, Aquaflex SF 40.
  • the crosslinking component comprises a positive ion plastic hair polymer derived from a natural polymer.
  • the natural polymer is selected from the group consisting of: a positive ion derivative of a polysaccharide, such as cellulose, starch, and or guar, chitosan, a salt thereof, and/or a derivative thereof, Or a mixture thereof.
  • the positive ion plastic polymer is selected from the group consisting of: polyquaternium-4, polyquaternium-10, polyquaternium-24, guar hydroxypropylammonium chloride, and mixture.
  • the acidic and alkaline cross-linking ingredients comprise a hair care component.
  • the acidic and alkaline cross-linking ingredients comprise any suitable, conventional hair care ingredient.
  • the hair care ingredient here refers to any cosmetically acceptable, and can improve the appearance of the hair, such as making the hair shiny, easy to comb, good touch, volume, and ingredients.
  • the hair care ingredients that can be used can be found in the 2008 CTFA International Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary Handbook, "Hair Care Ingredients", version 12.
  • the hair care component is selected from the group consisting of: a positive ion surfactant, a nonionic surfactant, a silicon compound, an organic oil hair care ingredient, and mixtures thereof.
  • Suitable hair care ingredients can be the polymers disclosed in European Patent Application No. 08151246.9, published on Feb. 11, 2008, at line 3, line 3 to page 27, line 33.
  • the conditioning component is a positive ion surfactant.
  • the positive ion surfactant contains an amino or quaternary ammonium moiety.
  • the acidic and basic crosslinking components comprise from about 0.05% to 3.5%, or from about 0.1% to 3.0%, or from about 0.5% to 2.5%, of a positive ion surfactant.
  • the cation surfactant has the formula Formula II:
  • R 71 , R 72 and R 73 is selected from the group consisting of: an aliphatic group having 1 to 22 carbon atoms, an aromatic group having up to 22 carbon atoms, an alkoxy group, a polyoxyalkylene, an alkyl amide, and a hydroxy group.
  • X is selected from the group consisting of: halogen, acetate, citrate, lactate, glycolate, phosphate, nitrate, sulfate, sulfonate, alkyl sulfate Salt, and mixtures thereof.
  • the positive ion surfactant has the formula of the formula II, wherein at least one of R 71 , R 72 , R 73 and R 74 is a fatty group having 16 to 24 carbon atoms. The remaining R 71 , R 72 , R 73 and R 74 are each independently selected from the group consisting of aliphatic groups having 1 to 4 carbon atoms, and X is sulfuric acid or hydrochloric acid.
  • the positive ion surfactant is selected from the group consisting of: behenyltrimethylammonium chloride, methyl sulfate, ethyl sulfate, octadecyltrimethylammonium chloride, and mixture.
  • the positive ion surfactant is a long long alkyl quaternary ammonium salt selected from the group consisting of dialkyl (14 to 18 carbon atoms) dimethyl ammonium chloride, dimethyl ammonium chloride. , dihydrotallow alkyl dimethyl ammonium chloride, distearyl dimethyl ammonium chloride, dihexadecyl dimethyl ammonium chloride, and mixtures thereof.
  • the positive ion surfactant is a tertiary aminoamine having an alkyl group of 12 to 22 carbon atoms.
  • the positive ion surfactant is selected from the group consisting of: cetyltrimethylammonium salt, behenyltrimethylammonium salt, ditallowyldimethylammonium salt, stearic acid Amidopropyl dimethylamine, (di) ester quaternary ammonium salt, quaternary ammonium salt 8,14,15,18,22,24,26,27,30,33,37,53,60,61,72,78 , 80, 81, 82, 83, 84, and / or 91, or a mixture thereof.
  • the hair care component is a nonionic surfactant.
  • Suitable nonionic surfactants have an HLB of less than 8.
  • Suitable nonionic surfactants are selected from the group consisting of: glycerides, sugar esters, alkyl polyglucoside ethers, oleyl polyglucosides, or phytosterols, glucosinolates, polyoxyethylene sorbitol, single hard a fatty acid ester, or a mixture thereof.
  • the hair care component is a silicone compound.
  • the silicon compound is a volatile or non-volatile, and/or soluble or insoluble silicon compound.
  • Suitable silicone resins may be those having the trade names SF 1075 benzyl oil (Power Company), DC 244, DC 245, DC 345, Dow 5/7113, DC 556 Cosmetic Grade Oil, DC 1248 (Dow Corning Incorporated).
  • the acidic and alkaline cross-linking component comprises a hair care component that is a reaction product of (a) an aminosilane, (b) a polysiloxane, and optionally (c) a poly ether.
  • the acidic and alkaline cross-linking component comprises a hair care component that is the reaction product of (a) an aminosilane, (b) a polysiloxane, and (c) a polyether.
  • the acidic and alkaline cross-linking component comprises a hair care component selected from the group consisting of epoxy aminosilane copolymers, and multi-block polysiloxane polyurea copolymers, and mixture.
  • the acidic and alkaline cross-linking component comprises a hair care component which is a reaction product of (a) an aminosilane, (b) a polysiloxane, (c) a polyether, and Selected (d) amine.
  • the polysiloxane is an epoxy polysiloxane. In at least one embodiment, the polysiloxane contains at least two ethylene oxide or oxetane. In at least one embodiment, the polysiloxane contains from 10 to 450 silicon atoms, or from 40 to 400 silicon atoms, or from 75 to 350 silicon atoms, or from 150 to 250 silicon atoms. In at least one embodiment, the structural formula of the polyether is CH 2 (O)CHCH 2 O(CH 2 (CH 3 )CH 2 O) n CH 2 CH(O)CH 2 (average), wherein n is 1 An integer of up to 10.
  • the amine contains from 1 to 10 carbon atoms, or from 2 to 5 carbon atoms.
  • the amine is an alkylamine substituted with at least one alkyl group.
  • the amine is selected from the group consisting of: methylamine, ethylamine, propylamine, ethanolamine, isopropanolamine, butylamine, isobutylamine, hexylamine, dodecylamine, oleamide, aniline amino Propyltrimethylsilane, aminopropyltriethylsilane, aminomorpholine, aminopropyldiethylaminebenzylamine, naphthylamine aminoethylcarbazole, aminoheptachlorohexane, 2,2,3,3 , 4,4,5,5,6,6,7,7,8,8,8-pentadecafluoro-1-octylamine, a mixture of ethyl groups.
  • the amine is selected from the group consisting of: methylethylamine, isoheptylamine, methyldodecylamine, diethanolamine, dibenzylamine, diethylamine dicyclohexylamine, piperidine, pyrrole Alkylphthalimide, a mixture of ethyl groups.
  • the hair care component is an epoxy aminosilane copolymer.
  • the acidic and alkaline cross-linking component comprises a hair care component which is a reaction product of (a) an aminosilane, (b) a polysiloxane, wherein the polysiloxane contains About 10 to 450 silicon atoms, or about 40 to 400 silicon atoms, and (c) a polyether, and (d) an amine wherein the amine is an alkylamine substituted with at least one alkyl group.
  • the acidic and alkaline hair care ingredients are selected from the group consisting of epoxy aminosilane copolymers, multi-block polysiloxane polyurea copolymers, and mixtures thereof.
  • the hair conditioning agent is a polydimethylsiloxane derivative containing an aminoalkyl group and an amine group.
  • the polydimethylsiloxane derivative may be, for example, a methoxy group or a hydroxyl group, or a mixture thereof.
  • the hair conditioning agent is an organic oil hair care ingredient.
  • the organic oily hair care component is non-volatile, water soluble, or oily.
  • the organic oily hair care component can be selected from the group consisting of hydrocarbon oils and oily esters.
  • the hair conditioning agent is a fatty alcohol.
  • the hair care component is a non-volatile, low melting point oleo alcohol.
  • the hair conditioning agent is an oil alcohol selected from the group consisting of: lauryl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, and mixtures thereof.
  • the acidic and basic crosslinking components may also contain at least one direct dye.
  • the direct dye contains from about 0.01% to 15%, or from about 0.1% to 10%, or from about 0.5% to 8%, of a hair direct dye.
  • the acidic and basic crosslinking components may also contain at least one viscosity modifying component.
  • the cross-linking component contains from about 0.01% to about 20%, or from about 0.05% to about 10%, or from about 0.1% to about 5%, of a viscosity modifying ingredient.
  • the acidic and basic crosslinking components may also contain at least one emulsifier and/or surfactant.
  • the emulsifier and/or surfactant is selected from the group consisting of a nonionic surfactant, an anionic surfactant, a zwitterionic surfactant, or a mixture thereof.
  • the acidic and basic cross-linking ingredients comprise from about 0.01% to 20%, or from 0.05% to 10%, or from 0.1% to 5%, of an emulsifier and/or a surfactant.
  • the acidic and basic crosslinking components may also contain at least one dye.
  • the dye is selected from the group consisting of a natural dye, a synthetic dye, or a mixture thereof.
  • the dye may be an organic dye, an inorganic dye, or a mixture thereof.
  • the dye may be selected from the group consisting of a colored dye, a pearlescent dye, or a mixture thereof.
  • the acidic and basic cross-linking component may also contain from about 0.01% to 10%, or from 1% to 2%, of the dye, which is the weight percent of the acidic and basic cross-linking ingredients in the undissolved state.
  • the dyes in the acidic and basic cross-linking components may be inorganic, nitroso, azo, diazo, carotenoid, triphenylmethane, triarylmethane, xanthene, quinoline, oxazine dye , pyridazine, anthraquinone, indigo dye, quinacridone (di) ketone, phthalocyanine dye, vegetal, natural color, water soluble, including those with CI names.
  • the acidic and basic cross-linking ingredients contain at least one specific ingredient.
  • the specific component is selected from the group consisting of silica, silicate, aluminate, alum, mica, insoluble salts, especially insoluble inorganic metal salts, metal oxides, minerals, Soluble polymer particles, or mixtures thereof.
  • the acidic and basic cross-linking ingredients comprise from about 0.01% to about 10%, or from about 0.05% to about 5%, by weight of the particular ingredients.
  • the acidic and basic cross-linking components are substantially free of special ingredients such as soil.
  • the acidic and basic crosslinking components comprise at least one preservative.
  • the acidic and basic cross-linking ingredients comprise from about 0.01% to 5% by weight, or from about 0.05% to about 1% by weight of preservative.
  • the acidic and basic cross-linking ingredients may contain various other optional ingredients. These optional ingredients may be selected from the group consisting of antioxidants, chelating agents, solvents, perfumes, fillers, masking agents, deodorants, colorants, fat carriers, surfactants, viscosifiers, viscosity modifiers, UV filters, Anti-radical materials, polyvinyl alcohol, pH adjusters, salts, colorants, polymer plasticizers, direct dyes, or mixtures thereof.
  • the acidic and basic cross-linking ingredients may contain from about 0% or from 0.1% to 5% of an antibacterial agent.
  • the acidic and basic cross-linking component comprises an organic acid selected from the group consisting of glycine, L-methionine, L-arginine, biotin, myosin, and mixture.
  • the acidic and basic crosslinking components comprise panthenol.
  • the acidic and basic crosslinking components comprise a wax compound.
  • the acidic and basic crosslinking components comprise beeswax.
  • the viscosity of the acidic and basic cross-linking component measured at 25 ° C, is from about 0.1 mPa.s to 1,000,000 mPa.s, or from 1 mPa.s to 80,000 mPa.s, or from 5 mPa.s to 3,500 mPas. .
  • Viscosity is measured by the HAAKE rotational viscosity meter VT550.
  • the meter contains a cooling/heating vessel and a sensor system with a shear rate of 12.9 s -1 according to DIN 53019 (MV-DIN, SV-DIN).
  • the acidic and basic crosslinking components comprise a buffer.
  • the buffer is a phosphate buffer.
  • the The buffer is a borate buffer or a carbonate buffer.
  • the buffer is selected from the group consisting of glycine/sodium hydroxide, sodium carbonate/sodium bicarbonate, sodium tetraborate/sodium hydroxide, sodium bicarbonate/sodium hydroxide, ammonium chloride/ammonia.
  • the buffer can control the pH to increase the stability of the cross-linking component.
  • the acidic and basic crosslinking components comprise an acid-base conditioning agent.
  • the acidic and basic crosslinking components may contain a protonating agent.
  • the protonating agent may be a single protic or polyprotic acid, a water soluble or water insoluble acid, and/or an organic or inorganic acid.
  • the protonating agent is selected from the group consisting of formic acid, acetic acid, sulfuric acid, hydrochloric acid, citric acid, and mixtures thereof.
  • a strong hair method and/or hair repair method comprising the steps of: (a) applying an alkaline cross-linking formulation to the hair and allowing it to rest on the hair for 1 to 45 minutes; b) optional cleaning of the hair or use of shampoo, and / or dry hair; (c) use an acidic cross-linking formula on the hair and leave it on the hair for 1 to 45 minutes; (d) optional Wash your hair or use shampoo and/or dry your hair.
  • the strong hair formula can be combined with a commercially available hair dye or hair bleaching formulation.
  • the acidic and alkaline cross-linking formulations of the present invention can be used on wet or dry hair.
  • the hair is washed with shampoo prior to the first step.
  • the hair is treated with a conditioner at the end of the treatment cycle. Hair conditioners have been disclosed in the present invention.
  • the hair is blown dry with a comb or blower.
  • the method of intense hair and/or hair repair comprises the steps of: (a) applying an alkaline formulation to the hair, the alkaline formulation comprising an at least bifunctional organic acid, the organic acid being The amino group in the hair reacts, the formulation remains on the hair for 1 to 45 minutes, (b) optionally cleans, and/or dries the hair, and (c) applies an acidic formula to the hair, the formula having a molecular formula of XRY is at least bifunctionally known as Brons, where X and Y are proton acceptors and R is one containing 1 The organic spacing to 20 carbon atoms, 0 to 5 oxygen atoms, and 0 to 5 nitrogen atoms, the molecular weight of XRY is less than 500 g/mol, and the acidic cross-linking component is retained on the hair for 1 to 45 minutes, (d Optionally, the hair is cleaned and/or dried, characterized in that the pH of the formulation (a) is from 7 to 12 and the pH of the formulation (c) is from 1.5
  • cross-linking component of step (a) can be combined with a commercially available hair dye or hair bleaching formulation prior to use.
  • the present invention relates to a method for strong hair and/or hair repair comprising the steps of: a) applying an alkaline formulation to the hair, the formulation having an at least bifunctional organic acid which can be associated with hair Amino reaction, using from about 0.01 to 5 grams of the formulation per gram of hair, (c) applying an acidic formulation to the hair having at least a bifunctional Bronsted base of the formula XRY, wherein X and Y are proton acceptors, and R is an organic spacer having 1 to 20 carbon atoms, 0 to 5 oxygen atoms, and 0 to 5 nitrogen atoms, and the molecular weight of XRY is less than 500 g/mol.
  • the acidic or alkaline formulation is left on the hair for 1 minute, or 5 minutes to 45 minutes, or 10 minutes to 40 minutes, or 20 minutes to 35 minutes.
  • the method of fortifying and/or relaxing the hair of the present invention may optionally include the process of drying the hair in step (b) or step (d).
  • a hair dryer is used to dry the hair.
  • the hair is dried for a period of from about 1 to 45 minutes, or from about 2 to 20 minutes, or from about 5 to 15 minutes.
  • the hair may still be wet after the drying step, but it is also necessary to have a separation such as 75% at the tip end. Residual humidity in the hair is acceptable.
  • hair is dried using a hood device.
  • the hair can be dried with a towel or by squeezing the hair by hand.
  • the distance between the hair dryer and the hair is generally about 10 cm.
  • the distance between the hair dryer and the hair can be around 20, 30 or 40 cm, and a comb can be used at the same time.
  • the temperature of the blower is between about 50 ° C and about 100 ° C. In one embodiment, the temperature of the blower can be as high as 130 °C. In one embodiment, the hair is combed at the same time as the hair dryer is used to shape the hair.
  • the method of strong hair and/or hair repair further comprises step (e) in addition to steps (a), (b), (c), (d).
  • the content of step (e) is a straightening step using a straight hair device containing a metal or ceramic plate.
  • the metal or ceramic plate has a temperature of between about 100 ° C and 280 ° C.
  • the metal or ceramic plate has a temperature of about 110 ° C to 250 ° C, or about 120 ° C to 240 ° C, or about 140 ° C to 230 ° C, or about 160 ° C to 220 ° C, or It is about 180 ° C to 210 ° C, or about 190 ° C to 200 ° C.
  • the "using the device for straight hair, the process is about 1 to 45 minutes, or about 2 to 20 minutes, or about 5 to 15 minutes. In one embodiment, the "using device" For straight hair, the process is at least 10 minutes, or at least 12 minutes.
  • steps (a) through (d) are repeated 2 to 4 times per month for straight hair and reducing hair damage.
  • the alkaline crosslinking component may contain a first, a second, and a third crosslinking agent.
  • the crosslinking agent used in the alkaline crosslinking component is an at least bifunctional organic acid.
  • the first crosslinking agent may be malic acid
  • the second crosslinking agent may be fumaric acid
  • the third crosslinking agent may be citric acid.
  • the alkaline crosslinking component also contains an organic or inorganic base for adjusting the pH of the alkaline component to 7 to 12.
  • the acidic cross-linking formulation can contain first, second, and third crosslinkers.
  • the first crosslinking agent may be 4,7,10-trioxo-1,13-trioxanediamine
  • the second crosslinking agent may be 4,9-dioxin-1,12-tweldium.
  • the alkyl diamine may be 1,11-diamine-3,6,9-trioxadecane.
  • the acidic cross-linking component also contains an organic or inorganic base for adjusting the pH of the alkaline component to 1.5 to 7.
  • the basic and acidic cross-linking ingredients may also contain a buffer, a cosmetically acceptable carrier, and a hair conditioning agent.
  • the hair conditioning agent is the reaction product of (a) an aminosilane, (b) a polysiloxane, and optionally a (c) polyether.
  • the formulation contains from about 0.1% to 15%, or from about 1% to 10%, or from about 2% to 5%, of a hair conditioner which is the reaction product of the following reactants: a) an aminosilane, (b) a polysiloxane, and optionally a (c) polyether.
  • a hair conditioner which is the reaction product of the following reactants: a) an aminosilane, (b) a polysiloxane, and optionally a (c) polyether.
  • a kit contains: (i) an alkaline cross-linking component, (ii) an acidic cross-linking component, and (iii) a hair care component.
  • the kit can be used to straighten hair and repair hair.
  • the kit is used to make hair easier to style.
  • the cross-linking component can be used to straighten hair and repair hair.
  • the alkaline or acidic cross-linking component can be used to make hair easier to condition.
  • alkaline cross-linking ingredients (total mass 100g):
  • Liquid A' 15g DL-maleic acid, 8g monoethanolamine sodium hydroxide, QSP water
  • Liquid B' 25g itaconic acid, 6g ammonia, QSP water
  • Liquid C' 12g maleic acid, 12g itaconic acid, 14g sodium hydroxide, 2g epoxy aminosilane, QSP water
  • Rinse Conditioner A' 12 g maleic acid, 12 g monoethanolamine, 1.00 g cetyltrimethylammonium chloride, 1.00 g polymethylphenylsiloxane, 0.40 g phenoxyethanol, 0.20 g PHB-methyl ester, 1.00g Dow Corning 949 5.00 g of isododecane, 0.40 g of aromatic oil, QSP water.
  • Rinse Conditioner B' 6 g maleic acid, 6 g itaconic acid, 10 g monoethanolamine, 1.00 g cetyltrimethylammonium chloride, 1.00 g polymethylphenylsiloxane, 0.40 g benzene Oxyethanol, 0.20g PHB-methyl ester, 8.00g Dow Corning 57113 5.00 g of isododecane, 0.40 g of aromatic oil, QSP water.
  • No-rinse conditioner A' 6g DL-maleic acid, 4g 4,7,10-trioxo-1,13-trioxanediamine, 1.00g cetyltrimethylammonium chloride, 1.00g methyl phenyl polysiloxane, 0.40g phenoxyethanol, 0.20gPHB- methyl ester, 8.00g Momentive TM 5.00 g of isododecane, 0.40 g of aromatic oil, QSP water.
  • No-rinse conditioner B' 3g maleic acid, 3g itaconic acid, 0.10g vitamin E-acetate, 1.00g polymethylphenylsiloxane, 10.00 propylene glycol, 0.50g twenty-two Ammonium chloride, 0.05 g sodium chloride, 0.30 g d-panthenol, 0.30 g PHB-n-propyl acetate, 2.00 g isododecane, 0.20 g aromatic oil, QSP water.
  • Liquid A 10 g of 4,7,10-trioxo-1,13-trioxanediamine, 5 g of 4,9-dioxin-1,12-dodecanediamine, 5 g of 1,11-diamine-3, 6,9-trioxadecane, 2 g of epoxy aminosilane copolymer, 20 g of citric acid, QSP water.
  • Liquid B 25g 4,7,10-trioxan-1,13-trioxanediamine, 9 grams of phosphoric acid, QSP water.
  • Liquid C 12 g of 4,7,10-trioxo-1,13-trioxanediamine, 3 g of 4,9-dioxa-1,12-dodecanediamine, 3 g of 1,11-diamine-3, 6,9-trioxadecane, 2 g of epoxy aminosilane copolymer, 13 g of DL-maleic acid, QSP water.
  • Rinse Conditioner A 16 g 4,7,10-trioxo-1,13-trioxanediamine, 8 g 4,9-dioxin-1,12-dodecanediamine, 16 g citric acid, 1.00 g cetyltrimethylammonium chloride, 1.00 g polymethylphenylsiloxane, 0.40 g phenoxyethanol, 0.20 g PHB-methyl ester, 1.00 g Dow Corning 949 5.00 g of isododecane, 0.40 g of aromatic oil, QSP water.
  • Rinse Conditioner B 18 g 4,7,10-trioxo-1,13-trioxanediamine, 7 g of phosphoric acid, 1.00 g of cetyltrimethylammonium chloride, 1.00 g of polymethylphenyl Siloxane, 0.40 g phenoxyethanol, 0.20 g PHB-methyl ester, 8.00 g Dow Corning 57113 5.00 g of isododecane, 0.40 g of aromatic oil, QSP water.
  • No-rinse conditioner A 6g 4,7,10-trioxan-1,13-trioxanediamine, 3g 4,9-dioxin-1,12-dodecanediamine, 6.5 g DL-cis butenedioic acid, cetyl trimethyl ammonium chloride, 1.00g, 1.00g polymethyl phenyl siloxane, 0.40 g of phenoxyethanol, 0.20g PHB- methyl ester, 8.00 g Momentive TM 5.00 g of isododecane, 0.40 g of aromatic oil, QSP water.
  • No-rinse conditioner B 10 g 4,7,10-trioxo-1,13-trioxanediamine, 5 g 1,11-diamine-3,6,9-trioxadecane, 15 g Citric acid, 0.10 g of vitamin E-acetate, 0.50 g of polymethylphenylsiloxane, 10.00 propylene glycol, 0.50 g of docosyl ammonium chloride, 0.05 g of sodium chloride, 0.30 g of d-panthenol , 0.30 g PHB-n-propyl acetate, 2.00 g isododecane, 0.20 g aromatic oil, QSP water.
  • the straight hair effect of the alkaline and acidic cross-linking formulations of the present invention was tested using a wig.
  • the active ingredients of the cross-linking formulations used are listed in the table below, TABLE 1, the pH of the QSP water in the alkaline cross-linking formulation was adjusted to 9, and the pH of the QSP water in the acid cross-linking formulation was adjusted to 5. These active ingredients were mixed in a spreading dish for 15 minutes.
  • the hair was blown dry by a hair dryer and then combed 500 times with a standard metal comb.
  • Straight hair and hair damage are measured by the weight of the broken hair under the accumulated combing compared to the weight of the wig.
  • Five wigs were used for each experiment and the average of the results was used.
  • use an alkaline formula do not go through the dry process and then use an acidic formula, then dry the hair.
  • the relative standard deviation of the mean of the five experimental results was less than 15%.
  • the use of the alkaline strong hair formula of the present invention and then the use of the acidic strong hair formula of the present invention significantly reduces hair damage.
  • the hair feels very good and shiny after being treated by the first and second formulations.
  • Mix the alkaline strong hair formula with the commercially available hair dye formula leave it on the wig for a period of time according to the instructions on the hair dye formula, then use the acid strong hair formula and then dry the hair to achieve the same reduction in hair damage. Improve the effect of the touch.
  • the ratio used was 10 grams of commercially available milky white hair dye, 15 grams of commercially available concentration of 6% hydrogen peroxide developer, and 2 grams of alkaline strong hair component.
  • hair bleaching is very similar to hair dye bleaching, which is basically the process of removing the color of the hair itself. Because the hair itself varies in color, bleaching generally does not produce a uniform, or satisfactory, color. Thus, after bleaching, the hair is again treated with a dye such that the hair eventually has a satisfactory color. The color of the hair itself that needs to be removed is determined by the color that the final hair needs to change. The toner does not lighten the hair color, and it turns the color of the previously bleached hair into a basic gold color.
  • the hair quality can be enhanced, hair damage can be reduced, and hair can be made more lustrous. It is easy to care for and increases the resistance of the hair to moisture, but it does not damage the hair color or hair bleaching effect at the same time.

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Abstract

一种用于强发以及修复角蛋白纤维的方法，包括提供第一以及第二交联配方，并将第一以及第二交联配方使用在角蛋白纤维上，其中所述第一交联配方含有至少双功能的布仑斯惕碱，第二配方含有一种至少双功能的有机酸，以及一化妆可接受的载体，碱性交联配方可以与一商业可获得的染发或头发漂白成分相混合。

Description

强发成分以及强发的方法 发明领域
本发明涉及一种用于强发的方法，成分以及试机盒，包括提供一种能够交联角蛋白纤维中氨基酸的成分，并将这种成分与可商业获得的染法剂或漂白剂混合。
发明背景
本发明涉及处理头发的试剂，该试剂含有双功能活性成分，该活性成分与头发中的氨基反应从而在各个方面提高头发的质量，并且显著增加卷发的持久性。本发明也涉及一改善头发状态的方法。
经常漂白头发，染发，烫发，以及经常使用表面活性剂或其他活性成分洗头会引起头发结构的损伤。头发会变得粗糙，丧失光泽。梳头的时候，因为静电作用会导致头发打结，从而使得梳理头发变得困难。
能使梳理变得容易的头发护理成分就显得具有十分重要的意义。这样的护理成分一般以透明的头发护理清理液或者以乳化液的形式涂抹在还潮湿的头发上，作用几分钟至一个小时，然后用清水洗掉。
上述的头发护理方式只对干燥的头发以及多孔的头发有效。对于迅速被油化的头发，其作用并不显著，因为使用以后头发更油了，从而导致发型不能长久。发型的长久取决于双硫桥键，双硫键不稳定，在还原的条件下被还原成硫氢基。目前有许多尝试，通过加入氧化剂使硫氢基被氧化成双硫桥键。这些方法被用来提高烫发的稳定性。许多专利以及专利申请描述如何重新建立双硫键，例如US 9,095,518 B2,US 2015034119 A1,201537270 A1,201537271 A1 以及WO 2015017768 A1.但是这些文件中所描述的技术仍有很大的提高空间。
现有技术中也有许多尝试，通过加入氨基酸来克服已知的护发技术中的缺陷，例如各种氨基酸以及维生素的混合弱酸溶液作为护发素(US-PS 4201235)。然而，制备这样的一种多种维生素以及氨基酸混合物溶液十分麻烦并昂贵。
，，化妆以及化妆用品，，Vol 98(1983),S.59-68,中描述了在一种中和香波中使用角蛋白水解物以及柠檬酸。然而这种香波只有很低的护发功能，并且能导致头发极度干枯。因此，在洗头以后需要一次甚至多次使用护发素。
文献W.Fassbender,香水&化妆品，39(1),S.11-16(1958),公布了可以将含有18至22种氨基酸的混合物使用在护肤以及护发品中。这种混合物可以通过分离天然蛋白的水解产物以及之后的清洗获得。因此，很难达到化妆品所需要的成分比例。
本发明的目的在于提供一种头发处理试剂以及一头发处理方法，该试剂以及方法以双功能有机酸以及双功能布仑斯惕碱为基础，并克服上述缺陷。本发明的另一目的在于在两个明显不同的pH值下，使用两种步骤下提供上述方法。本发明尤其提供一种新颖的头发处理试剂，该试剂适用于塑造持续长久的发型。本发明惊喜地发现头发处理试剂含有以下组合时能满足上述要求:
a:第一配方，该配方具有至少一种双功能的有机酸，该有机酸可以与头发中的氨基反应，(步骤1)，以及
b:第二配方，该配方具有一种分子式为X-R-Y的至少双功能的布仑斯惕碱，其中X和Y为质子受体，R为一含有1至20个碳原子，0至5个氧原子，以及0至5个氮原子的有机间隔，X-R-Y的分子量小于500g/mol,(步骤2)， 特征在于，配方(a)的pH值为7到12，配方(b)的pH均为1.5至7，配方a)使用在配方b)之前。
在上述两个配方中，所述双功能布仑斯惕碱在以及双功能有机酸中的重量浓度百分比均为0.01至30％。有机以及无机的酸和碱可以被用来调节第一个第二配方的pH值。所述pH值调节剂可以是单功能或多功能。
所述至少双功能的布仑斯惕碱选自1,4-丁二胺，1,5-二氨基戊烷，N-3-氨基丙基-1,4-丁二胺，N,N'-二(3-氨丙基)-1,4-丁二胺，2-(4-氨丁基)胍，以及其混合物。
步骤(b)中至少双功能的布仑斯惕碱的质子受体X和Y独立选择于羧酸盐，硝酸盐，磷酸氢盐，磷酸盐，伯胺，仲胺，叔胺，硫酸盐以及碳酸盐。
其中步骤(a)中所述至少双功能的有机酸选自草酸，丙二酸，琥珀酸，戊二酸，己二酸，庚二酸，辛二酸，壬二酸，癸二酸，十一烷二酸，十二烷二酸，甲基丙二酸，甲基丁二酸，甲基戊二酸，天(门)冬氨酸，马来酸，富马酸，衣康酸，中康酸，甲基马来酸，邻苯二甲酸，间苯二甲酸，对苯二甲酸，苹果酸，中草酸，酮庚乙酸，柠檬酸，异柠檬酸，乌头酸，丙基-1,2,3-丙三羧酸,苯均三酸,甲基四羧酸，乙烯四羧酸，内消旋-丁烷-1,2,3,4-四甲酸，呋喃四甲酸，以及其衍生屋，以及其混合物。
头发可以在步骤(a)和步骤(b)之间被干燥，干燥的时间为1至60分钟。其中头发通过一干燥装置被干燥。
所述配方在头发上停留的时间为1至45分钟。
优选的是，步骤(a)与步骤(b)中的配方分别独立地混合入一载体中，其中配方(a)中的载体与配方(b)中的载体相同或不相同。
优选的是，其中步骤(a)中的配方在使用至头发之前混合入可购买获得的染法剂或漂白剂。，在使用步骤颠倒时，步骤(b)中的配方也可以与一可购买获得的染法剂或漂白剂混合。
优选的是，在进行步骤(a)之前，头发被含有巯基醋酸的护发成分处理，用于处理卷发。
发明概要
本发明涉及一种强发以及/或者修复头发的方法，包括如下步骤:(a)将一配方用于头发上，该配方具有一种分子式为X-R-Y的至少双功能的布仑斯惕碱，其中X和Y为质子受体，R为一含有1至20个碳原子，0至5个氧原子，以及0至5个氮原子的有机间隔，X-R-Y的分子量小于500g/mol,并将其在头发上保留1至45分钟，(b)可选择地清洗，以及/或者干燥头发，(c)将一酸性配方用于头发上，该配方具有一种至少双功能的有机酸，该有机酸可以与头发中的氨基反应，并将其在头发上保留1至45分钟，(d)可选择地清洗，以及/或者干燥头发，其特征在于，第一配方的pH值为7至12，第二配方的pH均为1.5至7。
可选的是，其中步骤(a)中的强发配方在使用至头发之前混合入可购买获得的染法剂或漂白剂。
发明详细描述
在本发明文件中，包括所有的实施范例，以下定义为主，除非另有描述。所有的百分比为总成分的重量百分比。所有比例为重量比例。“份，，，例如混合物1份X,3份Y，是重量比。“QS“或者，，QSP“意为数量为100％或者100g.+/- 为标准偏差。所有的范围是可包含的以及可结合的。有效位的数量对所指数量不具有限定作用，也不代表测量的精确性。所有的数字都被“大约，，描述。所有的测量都在25℃以及环境条件下进行。“环境条件“指的是1个大气压，50％相对湿度。“相对湿度，，指空气中水分含量相对于相同温度和气压下饱和湿度水平的百分比。相对湿度可以用湿度计测量。“min“指分钟，，，mol“指摩尔，“nm“为纳米。“g“为克。“包含“指可以含有其他的步骤以及成分，包括“由…组成“和，，主要由…组成“。实施范例及其所描述的方面可以包含或可以与那些没有明确公布的成分，特征以及其他实施范例想组合，除非明确阐述不符合性。“在至少一个实施范例中，，指一个或多个实施范例，或者所有的实施范例或大部分的实施范例都具有所述特征。
，，黏度，，在25℃,使用HAAKE旋转黏度测量仪VT 550，使用冷却/加热器以及感应系统测量，根据DIN53019,切变速率为12.9s-1.
可水溶指的是25℃下浓度为0.1％时可在水中形成根据肉眼判断为清澈的溶液。
，，基本没有“指在总共成分或配方中少于1％,或少于0.8％，或少于0.5％，或少于0.3％，或约为0％。
，，角蛋白纤维，，指由角蛋白组成的纤维。“毛发“指哺乳动物的角蛋白纤维。在至少一个实施范例中，“毛发“指人的头发。“毛干“或“毛纤维“指单个毛发线，可以与“毛发“一词互用。
，，化妆可接受，，指所描述的成分，配方可以与人体角蛋白组织接触而没有过度的毒性。
，，衍生物“包括但不仅限于酰，酯，羧酸，酸，盐,醇等。
，，单体，，指单个，未聚合的，在一定条件下可以通过聚合反应形成大分子的化学单元。
，，聚合物“是指由两个或多个单体聚合而成的化合物。“聚合物“应该包括所有由单体聚合而成的化合物以及天然聚合物。由一种单体聚合而成的聚合物称为均聚物。均聚物含有至少两个单体。由两种或多种不同单体聚合而成的聚合物称为共聚物。不同单体的分布可以是随意的，相互交替的或嵌段的(如嵌段共聚物)。本发明中的“聚合物”指任何聚合物，包括均聚物以及共聚物。
，，试剂盒“指含有多个成分的包裹。也可以指“分试剂盒“。举例说，试剂盒可以是第一成分，以及分开包装的第二成分，以及可含有的使用指南。
本发明不同方面的具体细节如下所述。
发明描述
本发明描述了加强角蛋白纤维并同时让处理过的头发有极好触感的方法，并在与商业头发染色以及漂白的时候能使头发有很好的染色和漂白的表现。该方法通过在头发上使用强化配方或者将该配方与商业可获得的染发剂或漂白成分，达到半永久的强化效果以及同时使头发具有极好的触感。该方法含有两种不同的配方，其中一种配方的pH值大于7，另一种配方的pH值小于7。第一个配方为碱性，第二个配方为酸性。毛发强化效果至少维持到一次洗发以后。此外，发明人发现，该方法增加了发型抗水性和抗湿性，增加了头发在使用香波以后的可塑性。当与商业可获得的染法剂或漂白剂混合以后，对染发和漂白没有反作用。
上述效果是源于所使用的步骤，这些步骤的次序，以及包括活性剂的特殊成分。酸性配方中的活性成分扩散到角蛋白纤维的毛干中，与角蛋白多肽中的 氨基反应，并将角蛋白结构中的官能团交联，通过提供足够的交连用于抵抗角蛋白中本能的恢复力量。酸性配方中的活性成分扩散至毛干中的角蛋白纤维中，与角蛋白多肽中的羧酸基反应并交联这些官能团。这样可以形成对角蛋白稳定的加强，例如可以对头发损伤进行长期有效的修复。因为第一配方是碱性，它可以很好地与商业可获得的染法和漂白配方相混合而不影响这些产品的性能。第二配方的pH值小于7，可以避免头发在碱性环境下膨胀。头发在碱性环境下的膨胀导致角质层裂开并离开发干，导致头发粗糙，是需要避免的。
本发明不同方面的具体细节叙述如下。
交联成分:
本发明的交联成分互相不同，以协同的方式共同作用。使用的顺序对其效果有很重要的作用。为了达到所需要的强发效果并使头发有很好的触感，很重要的是先使用碱性配方然后使用酸性配方。使用碱性配方使头发膨胀。膨胀时，头发角质提升并离开发干，导致头发触感粗糙，降低头发的光滑度以及光泽度，因为毛发不能对齐形成一均匀的表面来反射光线。在碱性强发成分后使用酸性强发成分能降低使用使头发光滑的成分的必要，因为这些成分往往被认为很油，不自然。
商业可得的染发剂和漂白剂含有使pH为碱性的pH调节成分。头发氧化染色时，pH值0.5的变化可使头发最终的颜色有变化。在商业可得头发漂白配方使用时，pH值变化超过0.5时会使其漂白作用降低。因此，当需要在商业可得的染发剂和漂白剂中加入添加剂时，十分重要的是这些添加剂不能改变染发剂和漂白剂的pH值。商业可得的染发剂和漂白剂的pH值为8至12，所以很重要的是使其与本发明的碱性成分相混合。此外，很重要的是，碱性配方中的活性成分不能与商业可获得的染法成分相反应并生成其他产物。可能生成的其他 产物需要大量的产品安全测试，这些测试十分费时，昂贵，并可能有损客户的健康。当本发明的配方与商业可得的染发剂和漂白剂想混合时，混合配方先使用，然后再使用未混合的强发成分。所述第一成分的双功能布仑斯惕酸不与商业可获得染发成分，或者在染发过程中产生的中间产物发生反应，因此，使用安全。头发本身具有的缓冲能力足够使双功能布仑斯惕酸与头发中的氨基反应。第一强发成分的pH值为7至12，确保在其与商业可获得染发剂混合时没有颜色变化，在与商业可获得漂白成分混合时没有还原。
酸性强发成分(b)一般在碱性强发成分(a)之后使用，并且含有至少双功能的布仑斯惕酸作为交联剂。一种有机或无机酸化剂被使用用于将双功能布仑斯惕碱的pH调节至1.5至7。头发的缓冲能力足以使至少双功能的布仑斯惕碱与头发多肽中的羧酸交联。在碱性强发成分后使用酸性强发成分能降低使用使头发光滑的成分的必要，因为这些成分往往被认为很油，不自然。
各步骤之间最好有1至45分钟的逗留时间。可选的是，头发在第一步骤和第二步骤之间被清洗以及干燥。可选的是，在使用酸性和碱性强发成分步骤时间有1至45分钟的等待时间。
所述至少双功能布仑斯惕酸以及至少双功能布仑斯惕碱占总成分的重量百分比为0.01至30％,优选为0.1至30％,更为优选为0.5至25％，更为优选为1至20％，最为优选为2至15％，最为优选为3至10％。
在至少一个实施范例中，酸性以及碱性交联成分中各自含有一化妆可接受的载体。在至少一个实施范例中，所述化妆可接受载体为任一可以使活性成分配入交联成分中，使其能运用在毛发上。在至少一个实施范例中，所述载体是一水溶性载体，或一水溶性酒精载体。在至少一个实施范例中，当所述载体为一水溶性酒精载体时，该载体含有水和一种酒精。在至少一个实施范例中，所 述酒精选自乙醇，异丙醇，丙醇，或其混合物。在至少一个实施范例中，当所述载体为水溶性载体时，该载体主要含有水并基本没有酒精。在至少一个实施范例中，所述酸性以及碱性交联成分各自独立含有一安全以及有效量的化妆可接受的载体。在至少一个实施范例中，所述酸性以及碱性交联成分各自独立含有相对于交联成分中大约0.1％至99％,或大约1％至98％，或大约10％至97％，或大约30％至95％的水。
酸性以及碱性交联成分可以含有其他成分。在至少一个实施范例中，酸性以及碱性交联成分含有抗氧化剂。抗氧化剂在提供长期交联的稳定性方面有作用。在至少一个实施范例中，所述酸性以及碱性交联成分含有0.001％至5％，或者0.5％至1.0％的抗氧化剂。在至少一个实施范例中，所述抗氧化剂选自抗坏血酸(维生素C),脂肪酸的抗坏血酸脂，抗坏血酸衍生物(例如，抗坏血酸磷酸镁，抗坏血酸磷酸钠，抗坏血酸山梨酸酯)，维生素E,生育酚山梨酸酯，生育酚醋酸酯，生育酚的其他酯，丁基羟基苯甲酸以及其盐，过氧化物，包括过氧化氢，高硼酸盐，巯基乙酸盐，过硫酸盐，6-羟基-2,5,7,8-四甲基苯并二氢吡喃-2-羧酸(商业名称TroloxTM)，五倍子酸及其烷酯，尤其是没食子酸丙酯，尿酸及其盐以及烷酯，阿魏酸其盐以及烷酯，山梨酸及其盐，硫辛酸，胺(例如，N-二乙基羟胺，氨基胍)，含有硫基化合物(如谷胱甘肽)，二羟基富马酸及其盐，甜菜碱，去甲二氢愈创木酸，生物类黄酮，姜黄色素，赖氨酸，1-蛋氨酸，脯氨酸，过氧化物歧化酶，水飞蓟素，茶提取物，葡萄皮或者葡萄籽提取物，黑色素，迷迭香萃取物，以及其混合物。在至少一个实施范例中，所述抗氧化物为生育酚山梨酸酯或生育酚的一种酯。在至少一个实施范例中，所述抗氧化物为苯甲酸钠。在至少一个实施范例中，所述抗氧化物为阿魏酸。阿魏酸的优势在于可以加强配方中的氧化稳定性。在至少一个实施范例中，所述 酸性以及碱性交联成分含有一安全以及有效量的阿魏酸。在至少一个实施范例中，所述交联成分含有大约0.001％至5％,或者大约0.5％至1.0％的阿魏酸。
在至少一个实施范例中，酸性以及碱性交联成分含有一个鳌合剂。鳌合剂是指可以将金属离子通过与其形成复合物将其从系统中去除的活性物质，从而使这些金属离子不能参与或催化化学反应。包含鳌合剂能防止能引起过渡剥落以及皮肤损坏紫外线的辐射以及其他能引起皮肤损伤的环境中的物质，从而减少能引起氧化和色斑的局部铁离子的含量。鳌合剂可以增加交联成分的长期稳定性。在至少一个实施范例中，所述酸性以及碱性交联成分含有一安全以及有效量的鳌合剂。在至少一个实施范例中，所述酸性以及碱性交联成分含有一鳌合剂，所述鳌合剂选自N-羟基琥珀酰亚胺，EDTA,NTA,去铁胺，异羟肟酸及其盐，肌醇六磷酸，肌醇六磷酸盐，葡(萄)糖酸及起盐，铁传递蛋白，乳铁蛋白，以及其混合物。在至少一个实施范例中，所述酸性以及碱性交联成分含有一安全以及有效量的鳌合剂。所述酸性以及碱性交联成分含有大约0.001％至10％,或大约0.01％至5％，或大约0.1％至5％,或大约0.5％至1.0％的鳌合剂。可以使用的鳌合剂公布在专利文件U.S.Pat.No.5,487,884,中，发布于1996年，1月30日，作者是Bissett等，国际专利申请文件，No.91/16035,作者是Bush deng,公布于1995年10月31日，以及国际专利申请文件，No.91/16034,作者是Bush deng,公布于1995年10月31日。在至少一个实施范例中，所述鳌合剂选自N-羟基琥珀酰亚胺，去铁胺，异羟肟酸及其盐，肌醇六磷酸，葡(萄)糖酸以及其衍生物，和混合物。
在至少一个实施范例中，所述酸性以及碱性交联成分的形式适合用于毛发。在至少一个实施范例中，所述酸性以及碱性交联成分是一乳剂，一溶液，或者分散液。在至少一个实施范例中，所述交联成分含有一表面活性剂。该表面活 性剂能制造乳剂。在至少一个实施范例中，乳剂可以是一水油乳剂，或油水乳剂，或者多成分乳剂。乳剂的优势是使用方便。所述酸性以及碱性交联成分可以是免冲洗，也可以是冲洗型。所述酸性以及碱性交联成分也可以是护法素的形式。
所述酸性以及碱性交联成分还可以含有至少一个化妆成分，选自塑发聚合物，护发成分，头发冲洗成分，或者其混合物。在至少一个实施范例中，所述酸性以及碱性交联成分含有一塑发聚合物。在至少一个实施范例中，所述塑发聚合物选自:非离子塑发聚合物，负离子塑发聚合物，两性离子塑发聚合物，正离子塑发聚合物，或其混合物。可使用的塑发聚合物可以在2008年的CTFA国际化妆成分字典手册，“头发定型剂“,第12版本中找到。合适的塑发聚合物可以是2008年2月11日发表的欧洲专利申请08151246.9，第12页第5行到第19页第一行中公布的聚合物。
在至少一个实施范例中，所述酸性以及碱性交联成分含有重量百分比大约为0.01％至10％,或大约0.1％至8％，或大约0.1％至5％的塑发聚合物。
在至少一个实施范例中，所述交联成分含有一非离子塑发聚合物。在至少一个实施范例中，所述塑发聚合物是一天然或人工合成聚合物。在至少一个实施范例中，所述非离子塑发聚合物选自由以下单体聚合而成的聚合物:乙烯吡咯烷酮,已内酰胺乙烯,乙烯酯,乙烯醇,醋酸乙烯酯,(甲基)丙烯酰胺以及/或者其衍生物，(甲基)丙烯酸，其盐，以及/或者其衍生物，丙烯，乙二醇酸，巴豆酸，或其混合物。例如，这些聚合物的商业名称可以是
Figure PCTCN2017073366-appb-000001
或者Luviset
Figure PCTCN2017073366-appb-000002
在至少一个实施范例中，所述交联成分含有一负离子塑发聚合物。在至少一个实施范例中，所述负离子塑发聚合物选自:丙烯酸/丙烯酸烷基酯/N-烷基 丙烯酰胺三元共聚物，醋酸乙烯酯/巴豆酸共聚物，C1-C5-丙烯酸烷基酯/(甲基)丙烯酸共聚物，聚苯乙烯磺酸钠，醋酸乙烯酯/丁烯酸/乙烯基链烷酸酯共聚物，醋酸乙烯酯/丁烯酸/新癸酸乙烯酯共聚物，氨基甲基丙醇丙烯酸共聚物，乙烯吡咯烷酮/(甲基)丙烯酸共聚物，甲基乙烯基醚/马来单烷基酯共聚物，甲基丙烯酸烯丙酯的氨基甲基丙醇盐/甲基丙烯酸酯共聚物，丙烯酸乙酯/甲基丙烯酸共聚物，醋酸乙烯酯/马来酸二正丁酯/丙烯酸异冰片酯共聚物，辛基丙烯酰胺/甲基丙烯酸共聚物，二甘醇的聚酯，环己烷二甲醇，间苯二甲酸，硫代间苯二甲酸，以及其混合物。
在至少一个实施范例中，所述酸性以及碱性交联成分含有一两性离子塑发聚合物。在至少一个实施范例中，所述两性离子塑发聚合物选自:N-烷基丙烯酰胺/脂肪胺基烷基异丁烯酸甲酯/甲基丙烯酸共聚物，与具有叔胺基的单体以及具有酸根的单体聚合而成的共聚物，脂肪醇丙烯酸酯，烷基胺氧化甲基丙烯酸酯，以及丙烯酸和甲基丙烯酸中至少一种单体的共聚物，聚季铵盐-47,聚季铵盐-43,巴豆甜菜碱或巴豆甜菜酯的寡聚物或聚合物，及其混合物。
在至少一个实施范例中，所述酸性以及碱性交联成分含有一正离子塑发聚合物。在至少一个实施范例中，所述正离子塑发聚合物是一种均聚物或一种共聚物，其中季胺基存在于聚合物主链或者作为一个或多个正离子单体的取代基。含有铵基单体可以非正离子单体共聚。合适的正离子可以是不饱和可聚合的化合物，该化合物可以含有至少一个正离子基团，尤其是乙烯基铵盐，例如，三烷基甲基丙烯酰氧基烷基铵，三烷基丙烯酰氧基烷基铵，二烷基铵己二烯铵，以及含有环正氮基的季铵乙烯铵单体，例如，吡啶，咪唑鎓盐，季吡咯烷酮，如烷基乙烯基咪唑鎓盐，烷基乙烯基吡啶，或烷基乙烯基吡咯烷酮盐。这些单体中的烷基优选为低烷基，如C1至C7烷基，尤为优选的是C1至C3烷基。 合适的非正离子单体壳子选自:甲基丙烯酰胺及其衍生物，丙烯酸脂及其衍生物，乙烯基己内酯，乙烯基己内酰胺，乙烯基吡咯烷酮，乙烯酯，乙烯醇，丙二醇，乙烯乙二醇。例如，合适的正离子塑发聚合物为有如下商品名的聚合物，Gafquat 755 N,Gafquat 734,Gafquat HS 100,Luviquat HM 550,Merquat Plus 3300,Gaffix VC 713,Aquaflex SF 40。在至少一个实施范例中，所述交联成分含有一从天然聚合物中衍生而来的正离子塑发聚合物。在至少一个实施范例中，所述天然聚合物选自:多聚糖的正离子衍生物，例如纤维素，淀粉，以及或者瓜尔豆，壳聚糖，其盐，以及/或者其衍生物，或其混合物。在至少一个实施范例中，所述正离子塑发聚合物选自:聚季铵盐-4,聚季铵盐-10，聚季铵盐-24，瓜尔羟丙基氯化铵，以及其混合物。
在至少一个实施范例中，所述酸性以及碱性交联成分含有一护发成分。所述酸性以及碱性交联成分含有任何合适的，传统的护发成分。这里的护发成分指任何化妆可以接受的，可以提高头发外观效果，例如使头发有光泽，易于梳理，触摸感好，有体积，的成分。可使用的护发成分可以在2008年的CTFA国际化妆成分字典手册，“护发成分“,第12版本中找到。在至少一个实施范例中，所述护发成分选自:正离子表面活性剂，非离子表面活性剂，硅化合物，有机油性护发成分，以及其混合物。合适的护发成分可以是2008年2月11日发表的欧洲专利申请08151246.9，第19页第3行到第27页第33行中公布的聚合物。
在至少一个实施范例中，所述护法成分是一正离子表面活性剂。在至少一个实施范例中，所述正离子表面活性剂含有氨基或者季铵部分。在至少一个实施范例中，所述酸性以及碱性交联成分含有大约0.05％至3.5％，或大约0.1％至3.0％，或大约0.5％至2.5％的正离子表面活性剂。在至少一个实施范例中，所述正离子表面活性剂的分子式为化学式II:
Figure PCTCN2017073366-appb-000003
其中，R71,R72,R73中至少一个选自:含有1至22个碳原子的脂肪基，含有最多22个碳原子的芳香基，烷氧基，聚氧化烯，烷基酰胺，羟烷基，芳基或烷基芳香基；X选自:卤素，醋酸盐，柠檬酸盐，乳酸盐，羟乙酸盐，磷酸盐，硝酸盐，硫酸盐，磺酸盐，烷基硫酸盐，以及其混合物。在至少一个实施范例中，所述正离子表面活性剂的分子式如化学式II所示，其中，R71,R72,R73以及R74中至少一个是含有16至24个碳原子的脂肪基，其余的R71,R72,R73以及R74各自独立选自于含有1至4个碳原子的脂肪基的基团，X为硫酸或者盐酸。在至少一个实施范例中，所述正离子表面活性剂选自:二十二烷基三甲基氯化铵，硫酸甲酯，硫酸乙酯，十八烷基三甲基氯化铵，以及其混合物。一般认为，相对于含有较短的烷基链的正离子表面活性剂，较长的烷基链能提高干燥或者潮湿的头发的光滑度以及触摸感，也能减少头皮刺激。在至少一个实施范例中，所述正离子表面活性剂是一双长烷基季铵盐，选自:二烷基(14至18个碳原子)二甲基氯化铵，二甲基氯化铵，二氢牛脂烷基二甲基氯化铵，二硬脂基二甲基氯化铵，双十六烷基二甲基氯化铵，以及其混合物。在至少一个实施范例中，所述正离子表面活性剂是一含有12至22个碳原子烷基的叔氨基胺。在至少一个实施范例中，所述正离子表面活性剂选自:十六烷基三甲基铵盐，二十二烷基三甲基铵盐，二牛油基二甲基铵盐，硬脂酰氨丙基二甲胺，(二)酯季铵盐，季铵盐8，14，15，18,22，24，26，27，30，33，37，53，60，61，72，78，80，81，82，83，84，以及/或者91，或其混合物。 在至少一个实施范例中，所述护发成分是一非离子表面活性剂。合适的非离子表面活性剂的HLB小于8。合适的非离子表面活性剂选自:丙三酯，糖酯，烷基多葡糖甙醚，油烯基多葡糖甙，或植物甾醇多葡糖甙，聚氧乙烯失水山梨醇单硬脂酸酯，或其混合物。
在至少一个实施范例中，所述护发成分是一硅树脂化合物。在至少要一个实施范例中，所述硅化合物是一可挥发的或不可挥发的，以及/或者可溶或不可溶的硅化合物。合适的硅树脂化合物可以是有以下商品名的产品:SF 1075苯甲基油(电力公司)，DC244,DC245,DC345,Dow 5/7113,DC556化妆品级油，DC1248(道康宁公司)。在至少一个实施范例中，所述酸性以及碱性交联成分含有的护发成分是以下反应物的反应产物:(a)氨基硅烷,(b)聚硅氧烷,以及可选的(c)聚醚。在至少一个实施范例中，所述酸性以及碱性交联成分含有的护发成分是以下反应物的反应产物:(a)氨基硅烷,(b)聚硅氧烷,以及(c)聚醚。在至少一个实施范例中，所述酸性以及碱性交联成分含有一护发成分，该护发成分选自:环氧氨基硅烷共聚物，以及多嵌段聚硅氧烷聚脲共聚物，以及其混合物。在至少一个实施范例中，所述酸性以及碱性交联成分含有的护发成分是以下反应物的反应产物:(a)氨基硅烷,(b)聚硅氧烷,(c)聚醚，以及可选的(d)胺。在至少一个实施范例中，所述聚硅氧烷是一环氧聚硅氧烷。在至少一个实施范例中，所述聚硅氧烷含有至少两个环氧乙烷或氧杂环丁烷。在至少一个实施范例中，述聚硅氧烷含有10至450个硅原子，或40至400个硅原子，或75至350个硅原子，或150至250个硅原子。在至少一个实施范例中，所述聚醚的结构式为CH2(O)CHCH2O(CH2(CH3)CH2O)nCH2CH(O)CH2(平均)，其中n是1至10中的整数。在至少一个实施范例中，所述胺含有1至10个碳原子，或2至5个碳原子。在至少一个实施范例中，所述胺是一至少被一个烷基取代的烷基胺。 在至少一个实施范例中，所述的胺选自:甲胺，乙胺，丙胺，乙醇胺，异丙醇胺，丁胺，异丁胺，己胺，十二烷胺，油酰胺，苯胺的氨基丙基三甲基硅烷，氨基丙基三乙基硅烷，氨基吗啉，氨基丙基二乙基胺苄胺，萘胺氨基乙基咔唑，氨基七氯己烷，2,2,3,3,4,4,5,5,6,6,7,7,8,8,8-十五氟代-1-辛胺,乙基其混合物。在至少一个实施范例中，所述胺选自:甲基乙胺,异庚胺,甲基十二烷基胺,二乙醇胺,二苄基胺,二乙胺二环己基胺,哌啶,吡咯烷苯邻二甲酰亚胺,乙基其混合物。在至少一个实施范例中，所述护发成分是一环氧氨基硅烷共聚物。在至少一个实施范例中，所述酸性以及碱性交联成分含有的护发成分是以下反应物的反应产物:(a)氨基硅烷,(b)聚硅氧烷,其中所述聚硅氧烷含有大约10至450个硅原子，或大约40至400个硅原子，以及(c)聚醚，和(d)胺，其中胺是被至少一个烷基取代的烷基胺。
在至少一个实施范例中，所述酸性和碱性护发成分选自:环氧氨基硅烷共聚物,多嵌段聚硅氧烷聚脲共聚物，以及其混合物。在至少一个实施范例中，所述护发剂是一聚二甲基硅氧烷衍生物，该衍生物含有氨基烷基以及胺基。所述聚二甲基硅氧烷衍生物可以是，例如，含有甲氧基或者羟基，或者其混合物。
在至少一个实施范例中，所述护发剂是一有机油性护发成分。在至少一个实施范例中，所述有机油性护发成分是不挥发的，水溶性的，或油性的。有机油性护发成分可以选自碳氢油以及油性酯。在至少一个实施范例中，所述护发剂是一油脂醇。在至少一个实施范例中，所述护发成分是一不挥发，低熔点的油脂醇。在至少一个实施范例中，所述护发剂是一油性醇，该油性醇选自:月桂醇,十八烷醇,十六醇,十四烷醇,以及其混合物。
所述酸性和碱性交联成分还可以含有至少一个直接染料。在至少一个实施范例中，所述直接染料含有大约0.01％至15％，或大约0.1％至10％，或大约0.5％至8％的头发直接染料。
所述酸性和碱性交联成分还可以含有至少一个粘度调节成分。在至少一个实施范例中，所述交联成分含有大约0.01％至20％，或大约0.05％至10％，或大约0.1％至5％的粘度调节成分。
所述酸性和碱性交联成分还可以含有至少一乳化剂以及/或者表面活性剂。在至少一个实施范例中，所述乳化剂以及/或者表面活性剂选自非离子表面活性剂，负离子表面活性剂，两性离子表面活性剂，或其混合物。在至少一个实施范例中，所述酸性和碱性交联成分含有大约0.01％至20％，或0.05％至10％，或0.1％至5％的乳化剂以及/或者表面活性剂。
所述酸性和碱性交联成分还可以含有至少一个染料。在至少一个实施范例中，所述染料选自天然染料，人工合成染料，或其混合物。所述染料可以使有机染料，无机染料，或其混合物。所述染料可以选自有色染料，珠母染料，或其混合物。所述酸性和碱性交联成分还可以含有大约0.01％至10％，或1％至2％的染料，该百分比为未溶解状态下所述酸性和碱性交联成分中的重量百分比。所述酸性和碱性交联成分中的染料可以是无机的，亚硝基的，偶氮，二重氮，类胡萝卜素，三苯甲烷，三芳基甲烷，氧杂蒽，喹啉，恶嗪染料，吖嗪,蒽醌，靛蓝类染料，喹吖(二)酮，酞菁染料，植物性的，天然颜色，水溶性的，包括那些有C.I.名字的。
在至少一个实施范例中，所述酸性和碱性交联成分含有至少一个特殊成分。在至少一个实施范例中，所述特殊成分选自:二氧化硅，硅酸盐，铝酸盐，明矾土，云母，不溶性盐，尤其是不溶性无机金属盐，金属氧化物，矿物质，不可 溶性聚合物颗粒，或其混合物。在至少一个实施范例中，所述酸性和碱性交联成分含有大约0.01％至10％，或大约0.05％至5％的特殊成分。在至少一个实施范例中，所述酸性和碱性交联成分基本没有注入泥土之类的特殊成分。
在至少一个实施范例中，所述酸性和碱性交联成分含有至少一种防腐剂。所述酸性和碱性交联成分含有重量百分比大约0.01％至5％，或大约0.05％至1％的防腐剂。
所述酸性和碱性交联成分可含有各种其他可选成分。这些可选成分可以选自:抗氧化剂，螯合剂，溶剂，香料，填充剂，遮蔽剂，除味剂，染色剂，脂肪载体，表面活性剂，粘稠剂，粘度调节剂，紫外线过滤剂，抗自由基物质，聚乙烯醇，pH调节剂，盐，染色剂，聚合物塑化剂，直接染料，或其混合物。所述酸性和碱性交联成分可以含有大约0％或者0.1％至5％的抗菌剂。在至少一个实施范例中，所述酸性和碱性交联成分含有一有机酸，所述有机酸选自:甘氨酸，L-蛋氨酸，L-精氨酸，生物素，肌(氨)酸，以及其混合物。在至少一个实施范例中，所述酸性和碱性交联成分含有泛醇。在至少一个实施范例中，所述酸性和碱性交联成分含有一蜡化合物。在至少一个实施范例中，所述酸性和碱性交联成分含有蜂蜡。
在至少一个实施范例中，所述酸性和碱性交联成分的粘度，在25℃下衡量，为大约0.1mPa.s至1000000mPa.s，或1mPa.s至80000mPa.s，或5mPa.s至3500mPas。粘度用HAAKE旋转粘度测量仪VT550衡量。该测量仪含有冷却/加热容器，以及传感器系统，根据DIN 53019(MV-DIN,SV-DIN),切变速率为12.9s-1。
在至少一个实施范例中，所述酸性和碱性交联成分含有一缓冲剂。在至少一个实施范例中，所述缓冲剂为磷酸盐缓冲液。在至少一个实施范例中，所述 缓冲剂为硼酸盐缓冲剂或者碳酸盐缓冲剂。在至少一个实施范例中，所述缓冲剂选自:甘氨酸/氢氧化钠，碳酸钠/碳酸氢钠，四硼酸钠/氢氧化钠，碳酸氢钠/氢氧化钠，氯化铵/氨。所述缓冲液可以控制pH值，从而增加交联成分的稳定性。在至少一个实施范例中，所述酸性和碱性交联成分含有一酸碱调节剂。所述酸性和碱性交联成分可以含有以质子化剂。所述质子化剂可以是一单质子或多质子酸，水溶性或不水溶性酸，以及/或者有机或无机酸。在至少一个实施范例中，所述质子化剂选自甲酸，乙酸，硫酸，盐酸，柠檬酸，以及其混合物。
方法:
以下描述的是一强发的方法以及/或者头发修理的方法,包括如下步骤:(a)将一碱性的交联配方用于头发上，并使其停留在头发上1至45分钟；(b)可选的清洗头发或使用香波，以及/或者干燥头发；(c)将一酸性的交联配方用于头发上，并使其停留在头发上1至45分钟；(d)可选的清洗头发或使用香波，以及/或者干燥头发。在步骤(a)之前，所述强发配方可以与一商业可获得的染发或头发漂白配方混合。本发明的酸性和碱性交联配方可以使用在潮湿或者干燥的头发上。
在一实施范例中，在第一步骤前先用香波清洗头发。在一实施范例中，在处理周期的最后，使用护发素对头发进行护理。护发素在本发明中已经公布。在一实施范例中，头发用梳子或吹风机吹干。
在一实施范例中，强发以及/或者头发修理的方法包括如下步骤:(a)将一碱性配方用于头发上，该碱性配方含有一至少双功能的有机酸，该有机酸可以与头发中的氨基反应，该配方在头发上保留1至45分钟，(b)可选择地清洗，以及/或者干燥头发，(c)将一酸性配方用于头发上，该配方具有一种分子式为X-R-Y的至少双功能的布仑斯惕碱，其中X和Y为质子受体，R为一含有1 至20个碳原子，0至5个氧原子，以及0至5个氮原子的有机间隔，X-R-Y的分子量小于500g/mol,并将该酸性交联成分在头发上保留1至45分钟，(d)可选择地清洗，以及/或者干燥头发，其特征在于，配方(a)的pH为7至12，配方(c)的pH为1.5至7。
可选的是，步骤(a)中的交联成分在使用前可以与商业可获得染发或头发漂白配方混合。
将一护发成分运用至头发上:
本发明涉及一强发以及/或者头发修理的方法，包括如下步骤:a)将一碱性配方用于头发上，该配方具有一种至少双功能的有机酸，该有机酸可以与头发中的氨基反应，每克头发使用大约0.01克至5克的所述配方，(c)将一酸性配方用于头发上，该配方具有一种分子式为X-R-Y的至少双功能的布仑斯惕碱，其中X和Y为质子受体，R为一含有1至20个碳原子，0至5个氧原子，以及0至5个氮原子的有机间隔，X-R-Y的分子量小于500g/mol。在一实施范例中，所述酸性或碱性配方在头发上逗留的时间为1分钟，或5分钟至45分钟，或10分钟至40分钟，或20分钟至35分钟。
头发干燥:
本发明的强发以及/或者放松头发的方法可选的可以在步骤(b)或者步骤(d)中含有干燥头发的过程。在一个实施范例中，使用吹风机使头发干燥。在一实施范例中，头发干燥的时间为大约1至45分钟，或大约2至20分钟，或大约5至15分钟。一般来说，在干燥步骤以后，头发还有可能是潮湿的，但是在发梢部位还需要还需要诸如75％的分离。头发中有残留的湿度是可以接受的。在一个 实施范例中，用一个罩子设备实现头发干燥。在一个实施范例中，可以用毛巾或者通过手挤压头发实现头发干燥。
吹风机和头发的距离一般在10厘米左右。吹风机与头发之间的距离可以在20,30或40厘米左右，并可以同时使用一梳子。在一个实施范例中，吹风机的温度在大约50℃至100℃左右。在一个实施范例中，吹风机的温度可以高达130℃。在一个实施范例中，吹风机在使用的时候，头发同时被梳理，用来定型头发。
在一个实施范例中，所述强发以及/或者头发修理的方法在步骤(a),(b),(c),(d)外，还含有步骤(e)。步骤(e)的内容是使用含有金属或者陶瓷板的直发装置的直发步骤。在一个实施范例中，所述金属或者陶瓷板的温度大约为100℃至280℃。在一个实施范例中，所述金属或者陶瓷板的温度大约为110℃至250℃，或大约为120℃至240℃，或大约为140℃至230℃，或大约为160℃至220℃，或大约为180℃至210℃，或大约为190℃至200℃。
在一个实施范例中，所述“使用装置进行直发，，的过程为大约1至45分钟，或大约2至20分钟，或大约5至15分钟。在一个实施范例中，所述“使用装置进行直发，，的过程为至少10分钟，或至少12分钟。
在一个实施范例中，步骤(a)至步骤(d)每个月重复2至4次，用来直发并减少头发损伤。
在一实施范例中，所述碱性交联成分可以含有第一，第二，以及第三交联剂。在碱性交联成分中所使用的交联剂是至少双功能的有机酸。第一交联剂可以是苹果酸，第二交联剂可以是富马酸，第三交联剂可以是柠檬酸。所述碱性交联成分也含有一有机或无机碱，用于将碱性成分的pH调节至7至12。
在一个实施范例中，所述酸性交联配方可以含有第一，第二以及第三交联剂。所述第一交联剂可以是4,7,10-三恶-1,13-三癸烷二胺，所述第二交联剂可以是4,9-二恶-1,12-十二烷二胺，所述第三交联剂可以是1,11-二胺-3,6,9-三氧杂十一烷。所述酸性交联成分也含有一有机或无机碱，用于将碱性成分的pH调节至1.5至7。
在一实施范例中，所述碱性以及酸性交联成分也可以含有一缓冲剂，一化妆可接受载体，一护发剂。该护发剂是以下反应物的反应产物:(a)氨基硅烷，(b)聚硅氧烷，以及可选的(c)聚醚。
在一个实施范例中，所述配方含有大约0.1％至15％，或大约1％至10％，或大约2％至5％的护发剂，该护发剂是以下反应物的反应产物:(a)氨基硅烷，(b)聚硅氧烷，以及可选的(c)聚醚。
在一个实施范例中，一个试剂盒含有:(i)一碱性交联成分，(ii)一酸性交联成分，(iii)一护发成分。在一个实施范例中，所述试剂盒可以用来直发以及修复头发。在一个实施范例中，所述试剂盒用来使头发更容易打理定型。
在一个实施范例中，所述交联成分可以用来直发以及修复头发。在一个实施范例中，所述碱性或酸性交联成分可以用来使头发更容易打理定型。
实施范例
以下实施范例进一步描述本发明范围内的例子。这些实施范例只用来解释本发明，并不限定本发明，对这些范例的很多修改并不使其离开本发明的保护范围。
碱性交联成分的举例(总共质量100g):
液体A′:15g DL-顺丁烯二酸,8g单乙醇胺氢氧化钠，QSP水
液体B′:25g衣康酸,6g氨，QSP水
液体C′:12g顺丁烯二酸,12g衣康酸,14克氢氧化钠，2g环氧氨基硅烷,QSP水
冲洗护发素A′:12g顺丁烯二酸，12g单乙醇胺,1.00g氯化十六烷基三甲基铵,1.00g聚甲基苯基硅氧烷,0.40g苯氧基乙醇,0.20g PHB-甲酯,1.00g道康宁949
Figure PCTCN2017073366-appb-000004
5.00g异十二烷，0.40g芳香油，QSP水。
冲洗护发素B′:6g顺丁烯二酸,6g衣康酸,10g单乙醇胺,1.00g氯化十六烷基三甲基铵,1.00g聚甲基苯基硅氧烷,0.40g苯氧基乙醇,0.20g PHB-甲酯,8.00g道康宁57113
Figure PCTCN2017073366-appb-000005
5.00g异十二烷，0.40g芳香油，QSP水。
免冲洗护发素A′:6g DL-顺丁烯二酸，4g 4,7,10-三恶-1,13-三癸烷二胺,1.00g氯化十六烷基三甲基铵,1.00g聚甲基苯基硅氧烷,0.40g苯氧基乙醇,0.20gPHB-甲酯,8.00g迈图TM
Figure PCTCN2017073366-appb-000006
5.00g异十二烷，0.40g芳香油，QSP水。
免冲洗护发素B′:3g顺丁烯二酸,3g衣康酸,0.10g维生素E-醋酸盐，1.00g聚甲基苯基硅氧烷,10.00丙二醇，0.50g二十二三甲基氯化铵,0.05g氯化钠，0.30g d-泛醇,0.30g PHB-乙酸正丙酯,2.00g异十二烷,0.20g芳香油,QSP水。
酸性交联成分的举例(总共质量100g):
液体A:10g 4,7,10-三恶-1,13-三癸烷二胺,5g 4,9-二恶-1,12-十二烷二胺,5g1,11-二胺-3,6,9-三氧杂十一烷,2g环氧氨基硅烷共聚物，20克柠檬酸，QSP水。
液体B:25g 4,7,10-三恶-1,13-三癸烷二胺,9克磷酸，QSP水.
液体C:12g 4,7,10-三恶-1,13-三癸烷二胺,3g 4,9-二恶-1,12-十二烷二胺,3g1,11-二胺-3,6,9-三氧杂十一烷,2g环氧氨基硅烷共聚物，13克DL-顺丁烯二酸,QSP水。
冲洗护发素A:16g 4,7,10-三恶-1,13-三癸烷二胺,8g 4,9-二恶-1,12-十二烷二胺,16克柠檬酸，1.00g氯化十六烷基三甲基铵,1.00g聚甲基苯基硅氧烷,0.40g苯氧基乙醇,0.20g PHB-甲酯,1.00g道康宁949
Figure PCTCN2017073366-appb-000007
5.00g异十二烷，0.40g芳香油，QSP水。
冲洗护发素B:18g 4,7,10-三恶-1,13-三癸烷二胺,7克磷酸，1.00g氯化十六烷基三甲基铵,1.00g聚甲基苯基硅氧烷,0.40g苯氧基乙醇,0.20g PHB-甲酯,8.00g道康宁57113
Figure PCTCN2017073366-appb-000008
5.00g异十二烷，0.40g芳香油，QSP水。
免冲洗护发素A:6g 4,7,10-三恶-1,13-三癸烷二胺,3g 4,9-二恶-1,12-十二烷二胺,6.5克DL-顺丁烯二酸,1.00g氯化十六烷基三甲基铵,1.00g聚甲基苯基硅氧烷,0.40g苯氧基乙醇,0.20g PHB-甲酯,8.00g迈图TM
Figure PCTCN2017073366-appb-000009
5.00g异十二烷，0.40g芳香油，QSP水。
免冲洗护发素B:10g 4,7,10-三恶-1,13-三癸烷二胺,5g 1,11-二胺-3,6,9-三氧杂十一烷,15克柠檬酸，0.10g维生素E-醋酸盐，0.50g聚甲基苯基硅氧烷,10.00丙二醇，0.50g二十二三甲基氯化铵,0.05g氯化钠，0.30g d-泛醇,0.30g PHB-乙酸正丙酯,2.00g异十二烷,0.20g芳香油,QSP水。
数据:
本发明的碱性以及酸性交联配方的直发效果使用假发被测试。使用K-PAK香波确保头发干净没有任何可以影响效果的杂质。头发中过度的水被除去。所使用的交联配方的活性成分在下表TABLE 1中列出，碱性交联系配方中的QSP水的pH值调节为9，酸性交联系配方中的QSP水的pH值调节为5。这些活性成分在一散播盘中混合15分钟。每一克的头发使用0.5g交联系配方。交联配方在头发上停留30分钟。之后，头发被吹风机吹干，然后用标准的金属梳子梳理500下。直发以及头发损伤通过累积的梳理下的断发的重量对比假发发的重量来衡量。每个实验用5个假发，使用结果的平均值。使用两步处理时，先使用碱性配方，不经过干发过程然后使用酸性配方，然后对头发进行干燥。
表1 梳理n次以后头发损伤结果
Figure PCTCN2017073366-appb-000010
Figure PCTCN2017073366-appb-000011
五次实验结果的平均值的相对标准偏差小于15％。如上表中所示，先使用本发明的碱性强发配方，然后使用本发明的酸性强发配方显著减少了头发损伤。头发在被第一以及第二配方处理以后的触感极好并发亮。将碱性强发配方先与商业可获得的染发配方混合，根据染发配方上的指示在假发上停留一段时间，然后使用酸性强发配方，再将头发吹干，可以达到同样的减少头发损伤以及提高触感的效果。碱性配方与商业可获得染发剂一起使用时，没有发生颜色变化。所使用的比例是，10克商业可获得乳白色染发剂，15克商业可获得浓度为6％过氧化氢显影剂，以及2克碱性强发成分。
在使用氧化技术对头发进行染色时，一般需要使用合适的氧化染色物质的混合物以及至少一个染料氧化剂对头发进行处理。过氧化氢是最常使用的染料氧化剂。然而，过氧化氢也可以溶解头发中已经染色的黑色素，从而导致不良的头发质量。这些不良的效果部分是由于过氧化氢处理过程中的条件所引起的，如高pH值，(pH值大于9)，过度的处理时间(10至60分钟)以及相对较高的氧化剂浓度(可高达20％体积比的氧气)。所以需要提供一种染发配方，不但可以氧化染料从而有效染发，并同时可以强发防止其受损伤。
头发漂白的过程与头发染色漂白十分相似，基本是去除头发本身颜色的过程。因为头发本身颜色各不相同，所以漂白一般不能产生统一的，或者令人满意的颜色。因此，在漂白以后，头发再被一染料处理，使得头发最终有令人满意的颜色。头发本身的颜色需要去除的成都由最终头发需要变成的颜色决定。调色剂不能使头发颜色变浅，它们使事先被漂白的头发颜色变成基本的金色。
与商业可获得的染发或漂白剂混合，然后使用本发明的酸性强发配方，通过使用本发明的碱性以及酸性强发配方，可以增强头发的质量，减少头发损伤，使头发更有光泽，便于打理，并增加头发对湿度的抵抗能力，但并不同时损害染发或头发漂白效果。
上述的数字不应被理解为恰好为所述的数字，而是所述的数字，包括其所包含的功能性等同的范围。如，10％指大约为10％.
文中所引用的文献除非另有说明，为文献整体。引用这些文献不代表承认这些文献中的说明能对本发明中的实施范例有提示或揭示的作用。如果本发明中对某些概念的定义与引用文献中对同一概念中的定义不相同，以本发明中对该概念的定义为准。
本发明中的实施范例只有说明作用。应该理解的是在这些范例基础之上的很多修改并不脱离本发明的精神以及保护范围。

Claims (22)

  1. 用于处理头发的方法，具有如下步骤:
    a)将一配方用于头发上，该配方具有一种至少双功能的有机酸，该有机酸可以与头发中的氨基反应，以及
    b)将一配方用于头发上，该配方具有一种分子式为X-R-Y的至少双功能的布仑斯惕碱，其中X和Y为质子受体，R为一含有1至20个碳原子，0至5个氧原子，以及0至5个氮原子的有机间隔，X-R-Y的分子量小于500g/mol,
    其特征在于，配方(a)的pH值为7到12，配方(b)的pH均为1.5至7，配方a)使用在配方b)之前。
  2. 权利要求1中的方法，其中至少双功能布仑斯惕碱在(a)中的浓度为0.01至30％。
  3. 权利要求1中的方法，其中至少双功能有机酸在(b)中的浓度为0.01至30％。
  4. 上述任一权利要求中方法，其中，配方(b)中含有一酸化剂，配方(a)中含有一碱化剂。
  5. 权利要求4中的方法，其中，所述酸化剂是一无机酸。
  6. 权利要求4中的方法，其中，所述酸化剂是一单功能有机酸。
  7. 权利要求4中的方法，其中，所述酸化剂是一多功能有机酸。
  8. 权利要求4中的方法，其中，所述碱化剂是一无机布仑斯惕碱。
  9. 权利要求4中的方法，其中，所述碱化剂是一有机布仑斯惕碱。
  10. 权利要求1至4中的方法，其中，配方(b)中的酸化剂是配方(a)中的至少双功能的布仑斯惕酸。
  11. 上述任一权利要求中方法，其中步骤(a)中所述至少双功能的有机酸选自草酸，丙二酸，琥珀酸，戊二酸，己二酸，庚二酸，辛二酸，壬二酸，癸二酸， 十一烷二酸，十二烷二酸，甲基丙二酸，甲基丁二酸，甲基戊二酸，天(门)冬氨酸，马来酸，富马酸，衣康酸，中康酸，甲基马来酸，邻苯二甲酸，间苯二甲酸，对苯二甲酸，苹果酸，中草酸，酮庚乙酸，柠檬酸，异柠檬酸，乌头酸，丙基-1,2,3-丙三羧酸,苯均三酸,甲基四羧酸，乙烯四羧酸，内消旋-丁烷-1,2,3,4-四甲酸，呋喃四甲酸，以及其衍生屋，以及其混合物。
  12. 上述任一权利要求中方法，其中至少双功能的布仑斯惕碱选自1,4-丁二胺，1,5-二氨基戊烷，N-3-氨基丙基-1,4-丁二胺，N,N'-二(3-氨丙基)-1,4-丁二胺，2-(4-氨丁基)胍，以及其混合物。
  13. 上述任一权利要求中方法，其中头发在步骤(a)和步骤(b)之间被干燥，干燥的时间为1至60分钟。
  14. 权利要求16中的方法，其中头发通过一干燥装置被干燥。
  15. 上述任一权利要求中方法，其中步骤(a)中的配方在头发上停留的时间为1至45分钟。
  16. 上述任一权利要求中方法，其中步骤(b)中的配方在头发上停留的时间为1至45分钟。
  17. 上述任一权利要求中方法，其中步骤(a)与(b)之间有停留时间，该停留时间为1至60分钟。
  18. 上述任一权利要求中方法，其中步骤(a)与步骤(b)中的配方分别独立地混合入一载体中，其中配方(a)中的载体与配方(b)中的载体相同或不相同。
  19. 上述任一权利要求中方法，其中步骤(a)中的配方在使用至头发之前混合入可购买获得的染法剂或漂白剂。
  20. 上述任一权利要求中方法，其中在进行步骤(a)之前，头发被含有巯基醋酸的护发成分处理。
  21. 处理头发的含有成分(a)和成分(b)的试剂盒，其中成分(a)具有一种至少双功能的有机酸，该有机酸可以与头发中的氨基反应，成分(b)含有一种分子式为X-R-Y的至少双功能的布仑斯惕碱，其中X和Y为质子受体，R为一含有1至20个碳原子，0至5个氧原子，以及0至5个氮原子的有机间隔，X-R-Y的分子量小于500g/mol,具有一种至少双功能的有机酸，该有机酸可以与头发中的氨基反应，其中配方(a)的pH值为7至12，和配方(b)的pH为1.5至7。
  22. 处理头发的含有成分(a)，(b)和(c)的试剂盒，其中成分(a)具有一种至少双功能的有机酸，该有机酸可以与头发中的氨基反应，成分(b)含有一种分子式为X-R-Y的至少双功能的布仑斯惕碱，其中X和Y为质子受体，R为一含有1至20个碳原子，0至5个氧原子，以及0至5个氮原子的有机间隔，X-R-Y的分子量小于500g/mol,具有一种至少双功能的有机酸，该有机酸可以与头发中的氨基反应，其中配方(a)的pH值为7至12，和配方(b)的pH为1.5至7，成分(c)是护发素。
PCT/CN2017/073366 2016-06-14 2017-02-13 强发成分以及强发的方法 WO2017215276A1 (zh)

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