WO2017203539A1 - Procédé de fabrication de tissu de velours côtelé de type denim, et tissu obtenu à partir de ce dernier - Google Patents

Procédé de fabrication de tissu de velours côtelé de type denim, et tissu obtenu à partir de ce dernier Download PDF

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Publication number
WO2017203539A1
WO2017203539A1 PCT/IN2017/050189 IN2017050189W WO2017203539A1 WO 2017203539 A1 WO2017203539 A1 WO 2017203539A1 IN 2017050189 W IN2017050189 W IN 2017050189W WO 2017203539 A1 WO2017203539 A1 WO 2017203539A1
Authority
WO
WIPO (PCT)
Prior art keywords
fabric
corduroy fabric
denim
corduroy
dye
Prior art date
Application number
PCT/IN2017/050189
Other languages
English (en)
Inventor
Alpesh Patel
Dharmesh G. SHAH
Dharmendra PANDYA
Supratim ACHARYA
Original Assignee
Arvind Limited
Priority date (The priority date is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the date listed.)
Filing date
Publication date
Application filed by Arvind Limited filed Critical Arvind Limited
Priority to EP17802335.4A priority Critical patent/EP3464694A4/fr
Publication of WO2017203539A1 publication Critical patent/WO2017203539A1/fr

Links

Classifications

    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D03—WEAVING
    • D03D—WOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
    • D03D27/00—Woven pile fabrics
    • D03D27/02—Woven pile fabrics wherein the pile is formed by warp or weft
    • D03D27/04—Weft pile fabrics
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D03—WEAVING
    • D03D—WOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
    • D03D15/00—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used
    • D03D15/50—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the properties of the yarns or threads
    • D03D15/56—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the properties of the yarns or threads elastic
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • D06B—TREATING TEXTILE MATERIALS USING LIQUIDS, GASES OR VAPOURS
    • D06B11/00—Treatment of selected parts of textile materials, e.g. partial dyeing
    • D06B11/0093—Treatments carried out during or after a regular application of treating materials, in order to get differentiated effects on the textile material
    • D06B11/0096—Treatments carried out during or after a regular application of treating materials, in order to get differentiated effects on the textile material to get a faded look
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • D06B—TREATING TEXTILE MATERIALS USING LIQUIDS, GASES OR VAPOURS
    • D06B19/00—Treatment of textile materials by liquids, gases or vapours, not provided for in groups D06B1/00 - D06B17/00
    • D06B19/0088—Treatment of textile materials by liquids, gases or vapours, not provided for in groups D06B1/00 - D06B17/00 using a short bath ratio liquor
    • D06B19/0094—Treatment of textile materials by liquids, gases or vapours, not provided for in groups D06B1/00 - D06B17/00 using a short bath ratio liquor as a foam
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • D06P—DYEING OR PRINTING TEXTILES; DYEING LEATHER, FURS OR SOLID MACROMOLECULAR SUBSTANCES IN ANY FORM
    • D06P1/00—General processes of dyeing or printing textiles, or general processes of dyeing leather, furs, or solid macromolecular substances in any form, classified according to the dyes, pigments, or auxiliary substances employed
    • D06P1/0004—General aspects of dyeing
    • D06P1/0016—Dye baths containing a dyeing agent in a special form such as for instance in melted or solid form, as a floating film or gel, spray or aerosol, or atomised dyes

Definitions

  • the present invention in general relates to a fabric manufacturing process and more particularly, to a process of manufacturing of a denim-like corduroy fabric that behaves like denim and a fabric therefrom.
  • a tone-to-tone colour variation in the corduroy fabric is obtained 3 ⁇ 4 by using a pigment dyeing or coating the fabric.
  • a layer of dye is formed on either side of the fabric.
  • a colour variation may be achieved on both sides of the fabric.
  • the fabric is coated by a coating agent.
  • the coating agent may be applied in a foam form or a paste form.
  • it ttl is found that the dye only forms a superficial coating layer over the yarns of the fabric and does not penetrate into the fabric. The superficially attached dye gets removed easily and result into defective dyed fabric.
  • the dyes/pigments are fixed on fabric surface by mechanical/chemical bonding. It is purely an adhesion and no chemical reaction involved.
  • the pigment dyeing process and the coating process have limitations. These processes do not give a denim-like look to the garment.
  • the present invention provides a process for manufacturing of a denim-like corduroy fabric.
  • the process comprises the steps of: providing a pre-dyed corduroy fabric having a plurality of pile yarns at least on face side, foam dyeing the pre-dyed corduroy fabric with a dye having fading characteristics, on at least face side by allowing the foam to collapse at least on the face side of the pre-dyed corduroy fabric to deliver dye on the surface of the pre-dyed corduroy fabric using a foam dyeing technology, and washing and drying the corduroy fabric having
  • the step providing a pre-dyed corduroy fabric includes a step of a providing a greige corduroy fabric having a plurality of pile yarns at least on face side and pre-dyeing the corduroy fabric for providing a base colour to the corduroy fabric.
  • the present invention provides a denim-like corduroy fabric comprising plurality weft yarns, weft yarns and a plurality of pile yarns at least on a face side of the fabric, wherein the fabric is pre-dyed to provide base colour and the face side is foam dyed to deliver fading dye on the surface of the corduroy fabric to have a denim-like attribution to the corduroy fabric.
  • the pile yarns of the corduroy fabric are either of warp yarns or weft yarns.
  • the present invention provides a garment comprising a denim-like corduroy fabric according to the first aspect of the ttl present invention or denim-like corduroy fabric manufactured by a process according to the second aspect of the present invention.
  • a garment comprising a denim-like corduroy fabric according to the first aspect of the ttl present invention or denim-like corduroy fabric manufactured by a process according to the second aspect of the present invention.
  • FIG . 1A is a representative fabric cross-section view of a woven fabric before cutting, in accordance with the present invention
  • FIG . 1 B is a representative fabric cross-section after cutting a float weft 3 ⁇ 4 from FIG . 1 A;
  • FIG . 2 is a side view of a corduroy cutting machine
  • FIG . 3 is a cross sectional view of a weft-cut dyed yarn of a corduroy fabric, in accordance with the present invention.
  • FIG .4 is a process for manufacturing of a denim-like corduroy fabric 3 ⁇ 4 according to the one of the embodiment of the present invention.
  • references in the specification to "one embodiment” or “an embodiment” means that a particular feature, structure, characteristic, or function described in connection with the embodiment is included in at least one ttl embodiment of the invention.
  • the appearances of the phrase ⁇ one embodiment , in various places in the specification are not necessarily all referring to the same embodiment.
  • References in the specification to ' preferred embodiment means that a particular feature, structure, characteristic, or function described in detail thereby omitting known constructions and functions for clear description of the present invention.
  • the present invention in general provides a denim-like corduroy fabric and a process for manufacturing the same.
  • the process for manufacturing a denim-like corduroy fabric involves steps of providing a pre-dyed corduroy fabric having a plurality of pile yarns at least on face side which is, foam dyed with a dye having fading characteristics on at least face side and
  • the step of foam dyed is carried out by a foam dyeing machine wherein foam of dye allowed to collapse at least on the face side of the pre-dyed corduroy fabric to deliver dye on the surface of the pre-dyed corduroy fabric.
  • the step providing a pre-dyed corduroy fabric includes a step of a providing a corduroy fabric having a plurality of pile yarns at least on face side and dyeing the corduroy fabric for providing a base colour to the corduroy fabric.
  • warp and weft count of yarn ranges of ttl the denim-like corduroy fabric is from 8 Ne to 60 Ne, more particularly, 10 Ne to 40 Ne.
  • the weight of the denim-like corduroy fabric is between 4 Oz/square yard to 1 6 Oz/square yard more particularly, 6 Oz/square yard to 1 1 Oz/square yard.
  • the pile yarns of the corduroy fabric are either of warp yarn or weft yarn.
  • the present invention provides a woven corduroy fabric and garments made thereof that behaves like a denim by fading colour in each wash.
  • a woven corduroy fabric 100A and 100B includes weft yarns 102 and warp yarns 104. The weft yarns
  • 3 ⁇ 4 102 and warp yarns 104 are arranged in a predetermined manner such that the weft yarn 102 passes over and under at least 4 and maximum of 1 6 warp yarns 104 to form a loop portion.
  • the weft yarn 102 may include any number of warp yarns to form the loop portion in other alternative embodiments of the present invention.
  • the weft yarn 102 include a hard yarn 106, an elastomeric yarn 108 and a combination thereof or the weft yarn is hard yarn only. In one embodiment the weft yarn 102 arranged in a predetermined manner such that the at least one hard yarn 106 is arranged with the at least one elastomeric yarn 108.
  • the warp yarn 104 includes a hard un-dyed yarn.
  • the weft yarn 102 ttl passes along a back side 105 of the warp yarn 104 to form an under portion 1 12.
  • the weft yarn 102 passes along a face side 107 of the warp yarn 104 to form an over-portion 1 1 0.
  • the weft yarn 102 may include either the hard yarns 106 or the elastomeric yarns 108. It is understood here that the hard yarn 106 and the elastomeric yarn 108 may be of different type in other alternative embodiments of the present invention.
  • the present invention provides a process for
  • initial step includes warping yarns to form a beam of warp yarns.
  • the yarns from the cone or cheese packages are wound in a parallel position.
  • the beam is made from a set of number of warp yarns of same count or differential count.
  • the process involves sizing of the warp yarns.
  • the sizing is carried out using a sizing machine wherein a protective adhesive coating is applied upon the warp yarns.
  • F or sizing the warp yarns are laid in a parallel orientation.
  • the ttl warp yarn is withdrawn from the warp beam and is placed on a back side of the sizing machine.
  • F urther the warp yarn is passed through a size box and immersed in a sizing solution.
  • the warp yarns are dried and arranged on a loom beam.
  • the sizing with a mixture strengthens the warp yarns to withstand a rigorous weaving.
  • the process involves making a woven corduroy fabric from the sized warp and the weft yarn.
  • the process involves forming a weft pile fabric by cutting a weft float 1 14 of the weft yarn 102 of the woven fabric to formed a greige corduroy fabric having weft pile yarns.
  • the raised yarns after cutting the weft float are called as or known as yarn piles.
  • the weft float 1 14 of the weft yarn 102 is cut using a corduroy
  • the corduroy cutting machine 200 has a shaft that includes a plurality of circular knives and a plurality of needles thereon. The knives are mounted adjacent to one another. E ach needle has a longitudinal slot :L ⁇ The knives A dip into respective longitudinal slots L formed in the plurality of needles E .
  • 3 ⁇ 4 needles is pushed into the floating wefts 1 14 to cut open in the direction opposite to that of the fabric web and lower and upper contact strips which are respectively disposed below and above the points of the needles.
  • a gap between the periphery of the circular knives and a cutting edge of the machine 200 is adjusted such that the floating wefts 1 14 of the web ttl travelling through are cut without damaging the ground web or backing.
  • the process involves brushing the weft pile fabric 302 causing alignment of the weft pile fabric 302 in a vertical direction to a fabric plain thereby forming a corduroy fabric.
  • the weft pile fabric 302 is raised onto the surface of the fabric.
  • the weft pile fabric 302 is known as a cord and a fabric obtained by the brushing process is known as the corduroy fabric having weft piles.
  • fabric may have warp yarns as piles wherein fabric having warp float is
  • the corduroy fabric is a corduroy fabric having warp pile yarns.
  • the process involves singeing the corduroy fabric at a predefined temperature.
  • the brushed corduroy fabric has hairy fibers that protrude from cut yarn and base fabric as well.
  • corduroy fabric passes at a predetermined speed through a flame having a temperature that ranges from about 900 degree centigrade to about 1 100 degree centigrade for removing the protruding
  • the process involves de- sizing of the corduroy fabric wherein the size from the warp yarn is removed.
  • the corduroy fabric is sent for a scouring/bleaching to remove impurities, natural yellowness of cotton, cotton-seed skin and ttl improve whiteness thereof to obtain a greige corduroy fabric having a plurality of pile yarns.
  • FIG . 4 shows the process for manufacturing a denim-like corduroy fabric involving a step 410 of providing a greige corduroy fabric and a step 420 of pre-dyeing of the greige corduroy fabric wherein the dyeing of the corduroy fabric with a base dye is carried out using a continuous dyeing machine.
  • the pre-dyeing is achieved by using the base dye
  • 3 ⁇ 4 selected from the group consisting of an indigo dye and a sulphur dye and a reactive dye to give a base colour to the corduroy fabric.
  • the process for manufacturing a denim-like corduroy fabric involves a step 430 of re- dyeing the pre-dyed corduroy fabric on a face side 107 and/or a back side
  • the dye liquid is converted into a foam and applied on the fabric face.
  • the foam collapses at least on the face of the corduroy fabric and delivers dye on the surface of the corduroy fabric. It is understood here, that different intensities and/or shades of dyes may be applied on either the face side or
  • the foam dyeing includes a dye selected from the group consisting of an indigo dye and sulphur dye.
  • the process involves a step 440 of washing and drying of the corduroy fabric.
  • the dyed fabric is first washed with known wetting agent for wetting the fabric, known soaping agents and chelating agents, at around 60 degree centigrade and then washed with hot water at around 55 degree centigrade.
  • the washed corduroy fabric is further washed with hot water followed by a cold wash in a continuous washing machine.
  • the fabric obtained is the denim-like corduroy fabric having fading characteristics substantially similar to the denim fabric.
  • the dyeing process can be proceeds in such a way that only top layer 304, the warp yarn 104 and weft pile fabric 302 of the corduroy fabric get dyed with higher concentration of same dye or with different dye as shown in FIG . 3.
  • the base layer 306 of fabric can be dyed with a lighter shade of the same dye
  • the present invention discloses a process for producing a denim-like corduroy fabric with un-dyed warp and weft yarn 102.
  • the steps involve warping, sizing, weaving of the corduroy woven denim fabric that is dyed in continuous dyeing machine with indigo, sulphur or reactive dyes to
  • the dyed fabric is again dyed with indigo or sulphur or combinations thereof on the face side 304 or the back side 306.
  • the process gives the denim-like corduroy fabric having tone-to-tone colour or the colour differ from the face side 304 and the back side 306.
  • the denim-like corduroy fabric may be rinsed washed, ttl desized washed, enzyme washed, stone washed, sandblast, hand scrapped, sprayed with colour removing chemicals or treated in other ways that allows varying amounts of the un-dyed cores 308 of the yarns to become visible.
  • the garments stitched or manufactured from the denim-like corduroy fabric of the present invention exhibit fading properties substantially similar to the denim fabric. In other words, the garment made from the denim-like corduroy fabric of the present invention gets every time fresh appearance
  • 3 ⁇ 4 like how denim garments after every wash.
  • the present invention has created a new category of corduroy fabric that behaves like denim and allows all creative washes same as denim. Moreover, same or different dyes with same or different color shades, intensities can be used in pre-dyeing and foam dyeing process for
  • step 410 of providing a pre-dyed corduroy fabric includes buying a greige corduroy fabric and pre-dyeing at one place or buying pre-dyed corduroy fabric and only foam dyeing the said corduroy fabric at another place to achieve fabric of the present invention may be made without departing from the invention in its broader aspects, some of which changes and 3 ⁇ 4 modifications being matters of routine engineering or design, and others being apparent after study.

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  • Engineering & Computer Science (AREA)
  • Textile Engineering (AREA)
  • Chemical & Material Sciences (AREA)
  • Materials Engineering (AREA)
  • Dispersion Chemistry (AREA)
  • Coloring (AREA)

Abstract

L'invention concerne un tissu de velours côtelé de type denim, un procédé de fabrication du tissu de velours côtelé de type denim, et des vêtements correspondants. Le procédé comprend l'étape de coloration par mousse d'un tissu de velours côtelé pré-coloré avec un colorant ayant des caractéristiques d'atténuation pour obtenir un tissu de velours côtelé ayant une attribution de type denim. Le vêtement réalisé à partir du tissu de velours côtelé de type denim obtient à chaque fois des vêtements denim d'aspect frais après chaque lavage.
PCT/IN2017/050189 2016-05-25 2017-05-19 Procédé de fabrication de tissu de velours côtelé de type denim, et tissu obtenu à partir de ce dernier WO2017203539A1 (fr)

Priority Applications (1)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
EP17802335.4A EP3464694A4 (fr) 2016-05-25 2017-05-19 Procédé de fabrication de tissu de velours côtelé de type denim, et tissu obtenu à partir de ce dernier

Applications Claiming Priority (2)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
IN201621017967 2016-05-25
IN201621017967 2016-05-25

Publications (1)

Publication Number Publication Date
WO2017203539A1 true WO2017203539A1 (fr) 2017-11-30

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ID=60411138

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Application Number Title Priority Date Filing Date
PCT/IN2017/050189 WO2017203539A1 (fr) 2016-05-25 2017-05-19 Procédé de fabrication de tissu de velours côtelé de type denim, et tissu obtenu à partir de ce dernier

Country Status (2)

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EP (1) EP3464694A4 (fr)
WO (1) WO2017203539A1 (fr)

Cited By (1)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
CN109082902A (zh) * 2018-06-27 2018-12-25 浙江美欣达纺织印染科技有限公司 一种涂料滚面水洗仿旧印花工艺

Citations (3)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
US3913359A (en) * 1972-06-22 1975-10-21 Rca Corp Dyeing station in an apparatus for continuously dyeing fibrous material
US4397650A (en) * 1978-09-19 1983-08-09 United Merchants & Manufacturers, Inc. Textile dyeing process
US5531796A (en) * 1992-06-09 1996-07-02 Eric Wasinger Process for desizing and color fading garments

Family Cites Families (4)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
US4365968A (en) * 1978-09-19 1982-12-28 United Merchants & Manufacturers, Inc. Method of treating textile materials
DE3238406A1 (de) * 1982-10-16 1984-04-26 Mathias 4815 Schloss Holte Mitter Anwendung des siebdruckverfahrens bzw. einer siebdruckmaschine
US7913524B2 (en) * 2004-04-28 2011-03-29 Gaston Systems, Inc. Apparatus for dyeing textile substrates with foamed dye
ES2428765B1 (es) * 2013-10-04 2014-03-27 Tejidos Royo S.L. Tejido Denim con características ignífugas y proceso de tintura de la urdimbre con colorante azul índigo

Patent Citations (3)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
US3913359A (en) * 1972-06-22 1975-10-21 Rca Corp Dyeing station in an apparatus for continuously dyeing fibrous material
US4397650A (en) * 1978-09-19 1983-08-09 United Merchants & Manufacturers, Inc. Textile dyeing process
US5531796A (en) * 1992-06-09 1996-07-02 Eric Wasinger Process for desizing and color fading garments

Non-Patent Citations (1)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Title
See also references of EP3464694A4 *

Cited By (1)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
CN109082902A (zh) * 2018-06-27 2018-12-25 浙江美欣达纺织印染科技有限公司 一种涂料滚面水洗仿旧印花工艺

Also Published As

Publication number Publication date
EP3464694A1 (fr) 2019-04-10
EP3464694A4 (fr) 2019-12-18

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