WO2017110152A1 - Composition en émulsion à phase interne élevée pour améliorer son fps et sa rhéologie - Google Patents

Composition en émulsion à phase interne élevée pour améliorer son fps et sa rhéologie Download PDF

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Publication number
WO2017110152A1
WO2017110152A1 PCT/JP2016/075741 JP2016075741W WO2017110152A1 WO 2017110152 A1 WO2017110152 A1 WO 2017110152A1 JP 2016075741 W JP2016075741 W JP 2016075741W WO 2017110152 A1 WO2017110152 A1 WO 2017110152A1
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weight
oil
composition
composition according
name
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PCT/JP2016/075741
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English (en)
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Mohammad Mydul ALAM
Rui Niimi
Ritesh Sinha
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L'oreal
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Priority to EP16774718.7A priority Critical patent/EP3393599A1/fr
Priority to CN201680074725.2A priority patent/CN108367177B/zh
Publication of WO2017110152A1 publication Critical patent/WO2017110152A1/fr

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    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q17/00—Barrier preparations; Preparations brought into direct contact with the skin for affording protection against external influences, e.g. sunlight, X-rays or other harmful rays, corrosive materials, bacteria or insect stings
    • A61Q17/04—Topical preparations for affording protection against sunlight or other radiation; Topical sun tanning preparations
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/02—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by special physical form
    • A61K8/04—Dispersions; Emulsions
    • A61K8/06—Emulsions
    • A61K8/066—Multiple emulsions, e.g. water-in-oil-in-water
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/31—Hydrocarbons
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/33—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
    • A61K8/37—Esters of carboxylic acids
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/33—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
    • A61K8/37—Esters of carboxylic acids
    • A61K8/375—Esters of carboxylic acids the alcohol moiety containing more than one hydroxy group
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/46—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing sulfur
    • A61K8/466—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing sulfur containing sulfonic acid derivatives; Salts
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/49—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing heterocyclic compounds
    • A61K8/494—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing heterocyclic compounds with more than one nitrogen as the only hetero atom
    • A61K8/4946—Imidazoles or their condensed derivatives, e.g. benzimidazoles
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/84—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions otherwise than those involving only carbon-carbon unsaturated bonds
    • A61K8/86—Polyethers
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/84—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions otherwise than those involving only carbon-carbon unsaturated bonds
    • A61K8/89—Polysiloxanes
    • A61K8/891—Polysiloxanes saturated, e.g. dimethicone, phenyl trimethicone, C24-C28 methicone or stearyl dimethicone
    • A61K8/894—Polysiloxanes saturated, e.g. dimethicone, phenyl trimethicone, C24-C28 methicone or stearyl dimethicone modified by a polyoxyalkylene group, e.g. cetyl dimethicone copolyol
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q19/00—Preparations for care of the skin

Definitions

  • the present invention relates to a cosmetic composition, in particular a cosmetic composition in the form of an oil-in-water-in-oil (0/W/O) multiple emulsion, for a keratin substance such as skin.
  • Emulsion compositions are commonly used in a cosmetics and dermatological fields, since they are pleasant to use due to the feeling of freshness that the aqueous phase can provide.
  • Emulsions may be in a form of an oil-in-water emulsion (O/W type emulsion), a water-in-oil emulsion (W/O type emulsion), a water-in-oil-in-water multiple emulsion (W/O/W type emulsion), and an oil-in-water-in-oil multiple emulsion (0/W/O type emulsion).
  • O/W type emulsion oil-in-water emulsion
  • W/O type emulsion water-in-oil-in-water multiple emulsion
  • W/O/W type emulsion water-in-oil-in-water multiple emulsion
  • US-A-5, 814,321 discloses a water-in-oil-in-water type oil adjuvant vaccine comprising a water-in-oil type oil adjuvant phase comprising 30 to 90% by weight of an oil phase A), 0.5 to 30% by weight of an emulsifying agent comprising a non-ionic surfactant B) which is a partial ester derived from a polyhydric alcohol carrying at least three hydroxyl groups and a fatty acid, and a hydroxy fatty acid triglyceride C) wherein a hydroxy group of the fatty acid is polyoxyethylenated with 20 to 60 ethylene oxide units, E) 0.01 to 10% by weight of an amino acid or a salt thereof and 0.01 to 10% by weight of a non-reducing sugar or a sugar alcohol having at least 5 hydroxyl groups in the molecule and 5 to 65% by weight of an aqueous phase D) containing a biologically acceptable and effective amount of antigens; and an outer aqueous phase F)
  • a high internal aqueous phase W/O emulsion which is comprised with a large amount of water, is also known in the cosmetics and dermatological fields.
  • US-A-2003/0064046 discloses a high internal aqueous phase water-in-oil type emulsion cosmetic composition comprising (A) one or more cross-linkable
  • polyether-modified silicone having a certain structure in an amount of 0.1 to 10.0% by weight and (B) one or more polyether-modified silicone having a certain structure, and having a content of an aqueous phase component of at least 50% by weigh.
  • JP-A-2010-132620 discloses a water-in-oil type emulsified cosmetic which contains the following components (A), (B), (C) and (D), and satisfies the requirements (1) and (2) below.
  • the internal water phase ratio which is obtained by dividing the sum of the mass of the aqueous component of the component (B), by the sum of the mass of the aqueous component of the component (A) and the component (B), and of the oily component of the component (C), is at least 50%;
  • the purity of glycerine monooleate is at least 90 mass% based on the total amount of glycerin monooleate, glycerine dioleate and glycerine trioleate; the purity of glycerine monoisostearate is at least 90 mass% based on the total amount of glycerine monoisostearate, glycerine diisostearate and glycerine triisostearate; and the purity
  • An objective of the present invention is to provide a 0/W/O multiple emulsion composition, preferably a cosmetic sun care 0/W/O multiple emulsion composition for a keratin substance, such as skin, which has improved UV protecting effects.
  • composition in a form of an oil-in-water-in-oil multiple emulsion (O/W/O type emulsion) having an external oil phase, a high internal aqueous phase in the external oil phase, and an internal oil phase dispersed in the high internal aqueous phase as droplets, comprising:
  • the amount of the high internal aqueous phase is 60% by weight or more relative to the total weight of the composition, and the size of the droplets of the internal oil phase is less than 200 nm.
  • the size of the droplets of the internal oil phase may be less than 150 nm, preferably less than 120 nm.
  • the amount of the high internal aqueous phase may be ranging from 60 to 99% weight, preferably from 70 to 95% by weight, and more preferably from 80 to 90% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the HLB value of the (a) surfactant may be less than 12, preferably less than 10.
  • a viscosity of the composition may be from 1 to 500 Pa-s, preferably from 10 to 400 Pa-s, and more preferably from 50 to 350 Pa-s, and even more preferably from 100 to 300 Pa-s at 25°C.
  • the amount of the internal oil phase may be ranging from 0.5% by weight to 15% by weight, preferably from 1% by weight to 10% by weight, and more preferably from 2% by weight to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the (b) oil in the internal oil phase may be selected from ester oils Such as isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, ethyl hexyl palmitate, triglycerides such as capryl caprylyl glycerides, sarcosinate such as isopropyl lauroyl sarcosinate, hydrocarbon oil such as isohexadecane, and mineral oil such as paraffin.
  • ester oils Such as isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, ethyl hexyl palmitate, triglycerides such as capryl caprylyl glycerides, sarcosinate such as isopropyl lauroyl sarcosinate, hydrocarbon oil such as isohexadecane, and mineral oil such as paraffin.
  • the (a) surfactant may be selected from nonionic surfactants which are mono-esters of a polyol and a fatty acid containing from 8 to 24 carbon atoms, wherein the polyol is preferably selected from glycerol, sorbitan, and diglycerol and the fatty acid is preferably selected from isolauric acid and oleic acid, in particular esters of polyglyceryl-2 laurate, glyceryl laurate, sorbitan oleate, and glyceryl oleate, and silicone surfactants which are preferably polyether modified dimethicone such as PEG/PPG- 18/18 dimethicone, and polyether and alkyl modified dimethicone cross polymer such as PEG-15/lauryl dimethicone cross polymer, and anionic surfactants which are polyoxyethylene alkyl ether carboxylic acids such as polyoxyethylene (3) to (17) lauryl ether carboxylic acids.
  • nonionic surfactants
  • the amount of the (a) surfactant may be ranging from 0.1 to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.5 to 15% by weight, more preferably from 1 to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the amount of the external oil phase may be ranging from 1% by weight to 40% by weight, preferably from 2% by weight to 30% by weight to, and more preferably from 5% by weight to 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the (b) oil in the external oil phase may be selected from ester oils such as isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, ethyl hexyl palmitate, triglycerides such as capryl caprylyl glycerides, sarcosinate such as isopropyl lauroyl sarcosinate, hydrocarbon oil such as isohexadecane, mineral oil such as paraffin, and silicone oil.
  • ester oils such as isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, ethyl hexyl palmitate, triglycerides such as capryl caprylyl glycerides, sarcosinate such as isopropyl lauroyl sarcosinate, hydrocarbon oil such as isohexadecane, mineral oil such as paraffin, and silicone oil.
  • the composition may include water soluble solvent of less than 10% by weight, preferably less than 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the (c) UV filter may include both of a hydrophilic and hydrophobic UV filter, and the amount of the (c) UV filter may be ranging from 1 to 40% by weight, preferably from 2 to 30% by weight, more preferably from 5 to 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the such as skin comprising the step of: applying onto the keratin substance the composition according to the present invention.
  • the present invention also relates to a process of protecting a keratin substance from ultraviolet radiation comprising applying to the keratin substance the composition according to the present invention.
  • Figure 1 shows an example of a schematic view of the 0/W/O emulsion of the present invention.
  • composition preferably a cosmetic composition for keratin substance, preferably skin
  • a cosmetic composition for keratin substance preferably skin
  • the composition is an O/W/0 type emulsion having an external oil phase, a high internal aqueous phase in the external oil phase, and internal oil phase dispersed in the high internal aqueous phase, comprising:
  • the amount of the high internal aqueous phase is 60% by weight or more relative to the total weight of the composition, and the size of the internal oil phase is less than 200 nm.
  • composition according to the present invention can exhibit improved UV protecting effects.
  • the composition according to the present invention is in a form of an O/W/0 emulsion having an external oil phase, a high internal aqueous phase in the external oil phase, and internal oil phase dispersed in the high internal aqueous phase.
  • the external oil phase forms a continuous oil phase.
  • the high internal aqueous phase is in an amount of 60% by weight or more relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the internal oil phase forms nano-sized droplets having a size of less than 200 nm.
  • the composition comprises (a) at least one surfactant with HLB of less than 13, (b) at least one oil, (c) at least one UV filter; and (d) water.
  • the composition according to the'present'invention' is a cosmetic composition, in particular a cosmetic sun care composition for a keratin substance such as skin.
  • composition according to the present invention can exhibit improved UV protecting effects.
  • composition according to the present invention can have a good stability, even when it does not include any thickeners or includes only a tiny amount of thickeners.
  • the external oil phase in the O/W/0 emulsion of the present invention is a continuous oil phase and comprises (b) at least one oil.
  • the external oil phase may comprise other hydrophobic/oil-soluble ingredients, such as hydrophobic UV filters and oil-soluble cosmetic active ingredients.
  • the amount of the external oil phase is not limited, but in general ranges from 1% by weight to 40% by weight, preferably from 2% by weight to 30% by weight to, and more preferably from 5% by weight to 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. (High Internal Aqueous Phase)
  • the high internal aqueous phase in the 0/W/O emulsion of the present invention comprises (d) water and other hydrophilic/water-soluble ingredients, such as hydrophilic UV filters, cosmetically acceptable hydrophilic organic solvents (water soluble solvents), thickeners, and neutralizers.
  • hydrophilic UV filters such as hydrophilic UV filters, cosmetically acceptable hydrophilic organic solvents (water soluble solvents), thickeners, and neutralizers.
  • the high internal aqueous phase provides a high internal phase emulsion (HIPE). Due to a high amount of the aqueous phase, in general, the droplet shape of the aqueous phase becomes polyhedral.
  • the high amount of the aqueous phase may include a high amount of water, and thus this can provide the composition according to the present invention with a feeling of freshness when it is applied to the skin.
  • the high internal aqueous phase forms a micro-sized droplet.
  • the size of the internal aqueous phase may be 1 ⁇ or more, preferably less than 20 ⁇ , and more preferably less than 10 ⁇ .
  • the size of the aqueous droplet can be measured by using, for example, Particle size analyzer (Vasco, Cordoun Technologies).
  • the amount of the high internal aqueous phase is 60% by weight or more, preferably 70 % by more, and more preferably 80% by more relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the upper limit of the amount of the high internal aqueous phase is not limited, but in general, less than 99% by weigh, preferably less than 95% by weight, and more preferably less than 90% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the external oil phase in the 0/W/O emulsion of the present invention forms droplets dispersed n the high internal aqueous phase and3 ⁇ 4omprises (b) at least one oil.
  • the internal oil phase may comprise other hydrophobic/oil-soluble ingredients, such as hydrophobic UV filters and oil-soluble cosmetic active ingredients.
  • the internal oil phase forms nano-sized droplets.
  • the size of the droplets of the internal oil phase is less than 200 nm, preferably less than 150 nm, and more preferably less than 120 nm. In general, the size of the droplets of the internal oil phase is more than 1 nm, preferably more than 5 nm, and more preferably more than 10 nm.
  • the size of the droplets of the oil phase is the number mean particle size and can be measured by using, for example, Particle size analyzer (Vasco, Cordoun Technologies).
  • the amount of the internal oil phase is not limited, but in general ranges from 0.5% by weight to 15% by weight, preferably from 1% by weight to 10% by weight, and more preferably from 2% by weight to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the inventors found that the nano-sized internal oil droplet in the 0/W/O emulsion can improve UV protecting effects of the composition according to the present invention.
  • the nano-sized internal oil droplet in the 0/W/O emulsion can improve the stability of the composition, since it can provide a composition with a viscosity. Therefore, the composition according to the present invention is stable even if it does not substantially include any thickeners or includes only a tiny amount of thickener.
  • the composition according to the present invention is substantially free from thickeners, preferably comprises less than 5% by weight, and more preferably comprises less than 1% by weight of thickeners, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the viscosity of the composition according to the present invention is not particularly limited.
  • the viscosity can be measured by using a rheometer, for example, DHR2 rheometer (TA instrument) with a parallel-plate geometry at 25°C.
  • the viscosity of the composition which does not includes any thickeners can range, for example, from 1 to 500 Pa ⁇ s, preferably from 10 to 400 Pa ⁇ s, and more preferably from 50 to 350 Pa ⁇ s, and even more preferably from 100 to 300 Pa- s at 25°C and 0.01 to 1000 1/s.
  • the composition may possess a Newtonian nature.
  • the stability of the composition according to the present invention can be characterized by its high yield stress value.
  • Yield stress used herein means the maximum stress up to which materials keep its structure. Beyond this stress, the materials tend to flow or destabilize. In other word, high yield stress helps to improve the stability.
  • the high yield stress value can be calculated, for example, from the share rate vs stress curve measured by using a rheometer, for example, DHR2 rheometer (TA instrument) with a parallel-plate geometry at 25°C.
  • the yield stress value of the 0/W/O multiple emulsion according to the present invention can be, for example, more than 30 Pa, preferably more than 50 Pa, and more preferably more than 70 Pa at 25°C and 0.01 to 1000 1/s.
  • Fig. 1 sho ws an example of a schematic view of the 0/W/O emulsion of the present invention. This figure is only for reference and does not limit the scope of the invention.
  • the emulsion of the present invention has a multiple architecture, the external oil phase forms a continuous oil phase in the emulsion; the high internal aqueous phase may form polyhedral droplets in the external oil phase, and the internal oil phase forms nano-sized droplets dispersed in the high internal aqueous phase.
  • composition according to the present invention comprises (a) at least one surfactant with HLB (Hydrophilic Lipophilic Balance) of less than 13.
  • HLB Hydrophilic Lipophilic Balance
  • Two or more (a) surfactants may be used in combination.
  • a single type of a surfactant or a combination of different types of surfactants may be used.
  • HLB hydrophilic-lipophilic balance
  • the (a) surfactants used in the composition have an HLB value of less than 12, and more preferably less than 10. If two or more surfactants are used, the HLB value can be determined by the weight average of the HLB values of all the surfactants.
  • the calculated HLB is defined as being the following coefficient:
  • the lipophilic part of the surfactant is comprised of either carbon and hydrogen atoms or silicon and hydrogen atoms.
  • the surfactant used in the composition according to the present invention can be selected from nonionic surfactants, anionic surfactants, cationic surfactants, and amphoteric
  • the (a) surfactants are selected from nonionic surfactants and anionic surfactants.
  • Nonionic Surfactant The nonionic surfactants are compounds well known in themselves (see, e.g., in this regard, "Handbook of Surfactants” by M. R. Porter, Blackie & Son publishers (Glasgow and London), 1991, pp. 116-178).
  • the (a) surfactant can, for example, be chosen from alcohols, alpha-diols, alkylphenols and esters of fatty acids, these compounds being ethoxylated, propoxylated or glycerolated and having at least one fatty chain comprising, for example, from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, it being possible for the number of ethylene-oxide or propylene oxide groups to range from 2 to 50, and for the number of glycerol groups to range from 1 to 30.
  • the (a) surfactant may preferably be chosen from monooxyalkylenated, polyoxyalkylenated, monoglycerolated or polyglycerolated nonionic surfactants.
  • the oxyalkylene units are more particularly oxyethylene or oxypropylene units, or a combination thereof, and are preferably oxy ethylene units.
  • Examples of monooxyalkylenated or polyoxyalkylenated nonionic surfactants that may be mentioned include:
  • esters of saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, C 8 -C 30 acids and of polyalkylene glycols are examples of esters of saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, C 8 -C 30 acids and of polyalkylene glycols,
  • the surfactants preferably contain a number of moles of ethylene oxide and/or of propylene oxide of between 1 and 100 and most preferably between 2 and 50.
  • the nonionic surfactants do not comprise any oxypropylene units.
  • the polyoxyalkylenated nonionic surfactants are chosen from polyoxyethylenated fatty alcohol (polyethylene glycol ether of fatty alcohol) and polyoxyethylenated fatty ester (polyethylene glycol ester of fatty acid).
  • polyoxyethylenated fatty alcohol examples include the adducts of ethylene oxide with lauryl alcohol, especially those containing from 7 to 50 oxyethylene units and more particularly those containing from 6 to 12 oxyethylene units (Laureth-7 to Laureth-12, as the CTFA names); the adducts of ethylene oxide with behenyl alcohol, especially those containing from 5 to 50 oxyethylene units (Beheneth-5 to
  • monoglycerolated or polyglycerolated C 8 -C 40 alcohols are preferably used.
  • the monoglycerolated or polyglycerolated C 8 -C 4 o alcohols correspond to the following formula:
  • Lauryl Ether lauryl alcohol containing 2 mol of glycerol
  • lauryl alcohol containing 1.5 mol of glycerol oleyl alcohol containing 4 mol of glycerol
  • oleyl alcohol containing 2 mol of glycerol INCI name: Polyglyceryl-2 Oleyl Ether
  • cetearyl alcohol containing 2 mol of glycerol cetearyl alcohol containing 6 mol of glycerol
  • oleocetyl alcohol containing 6 mol of glycerol
  • octadecanol containing 6 mol of glycerol octadecanol containing 6 mol of glycerol.
  • the alcohol may represent a mixture of alcohols in the same way that the value of m represents a statistical value, which means that, in a commercial product, several species of polyglycerolated fatty alcohol may coexist in the form of a mixture.
  • the monoglycerolated or polyglycerolated alcohols it is preferable to use the C 8 /C 10 alcohol containing 1 mol of glycerol, the C 10 /C 12 alcohol containing 1 mol of glycerol and the Ci 2 alcohol containing 1.5 mol of glycerol.
  • the monoglycerolated or polyglycerolated C 8 -C 40 fatty esters may correspond to the following formula:
  • polyoxyethylenated fatty esters examples include the adducts of ethylene oxide with esters of lauric acid, palmitic acid, stearic acid or behenic acid, and mixtures thereof, especially those containing from 9 to 100 oxyethylene units, such as PEG-9 to PEG-50 laurate (as the CTFA names: PEG-9 laurate to PEG-50 laurate); PEG-9 to PEG-50 palmitate (as the CTFA names: PEG-9 palmitate to PEG-50 palmitate); PEG-9 to PEG-50 stearate (as the CTFA names: PEG-9 stearate to PEG-50 stearate); PEG-9 to PEG-50 palmitostearate; PEG-9 to PEG-50 behenate (as the CTFA names: PEG-9 behenate to PEG-50 behenate); polyethylene glycol 100 EO monostearate (CTFA name: PEG- 100 stearate); and mixtures thereof.
  • PEG-9 to PEG-50 laurate as the
  • the nonionic surfactant may be selected from esters of polyols with fatty acids with a saturated or unsaturated chain containing, for example, from 8 to 24 carbon atoms, preferably 12 to 22 carbon atoms, and polyoxyalkylenated derivatives thereof, preferably containing from 10 to 200, and more preferably from 10 to 100 oxyalkylene units, such as mono glyceryl esters or poly glyceryl esters of a C -C 24 , preferably C 12 -C 22 , fatty acid or acids and
  • polyoxyalkylenated derivatives thereof preferably containing from-10 to 200, and-more preferably from 10 to 100 oxyalkylene units; sorbitol esters of a C 8 -C 24 , preferably C 12 -C 22 , fatty acid or acids and polyoxyalkylenated derivatives thereof, preferably containing from 10 to 200, and more preferably from 10 to 100 oxyalkylene units; sugar (sucrose, maltose, glucose, fructose, sorbitol, sorbitan, and/or alkylglycose) esters of a C 8 -C 24 , preferably C 12 -C 22 , fatty acid or acids and polyoxyalkylenated derivatives thereof, preferably containing from 10 to 200, and more preferably from 10 to 100 oxyalkylene units; ethers of fatty alcohols; ethers of sugar and a C 8 -C 24 , preferably Ci 2 -C 22 , fatty alcohol or alcohols; and mixture
  • glyceryl esters of fatty acids glyceryl laurate (glyceryl mono, di, and/or tri-laurate), in particular glyceryl monolaurate (CTFA name: glyceryl laurate, sold by Taiyo Kagaku), glyceryl stearate (glyceryl mono-, di- and/or tri-stearate) (CTFA name: glyceryl stearate), glyceryl monooleate (CTFA name: glyceryl oleate, sold by Taiyo Kagaku) or glyceryl ricinoleate and mixtures thereof can be cited, and as polyoxyalkylenated derivatives thereof, mono-, di- or triester of fatty acids with a polyoxyalkylenated glycerol (mono-, di- or triester of fatty acids with a polyalkylene glycol ether of glycerol), preferably polyoxyethylenated
  • surfactants such as, for example, the product containing glyceryl stearate and PEG- 100 stearate, marketed under the name ARLACEL 165 by Uniqema, and the product containing glyceryl stearate (glyceryl mono- and distearate) and potassium stearate marketed under the name TEGIN by Goldschmidt (CTFA name: glyceryl stearate SE), can also be used.
  • polyglyceryl esters of (a) fatty acid(s) mention be made the product containing 2 to 10 glycerol units, such as polyglyceryl monolaurate, in particular diglyceryl monolaurate (CTFA name: polyglyceryl-2 laurate, sold by Taiyo Kagaku), oleate, myristate, caprylate, or stearate comprising 2 to 10 glycerol units, polyglyceryl mono(iso)stearate comprising 2 to 10 glycerol units, polyglyceryl dioleate comprising 2 to 10 glycerol units, polyglyceryl dilaurate comprising 2 to 10 glycerol units, polyglyceryl dimyristate comprising 2 to 10 glycerol units, polyglyceryl trimyristate comprising 2 to 10 glycerol units, polyglyceryl trioleate comprising 2 to 10 glycerol units, and polyglyceryl tricaprylate compris
  • the sorbitol esters of C 8 -C 24 fatty acids and polyoxyalkylenated derivatives thereof can be selected from sorbitan palmitate, sorbitan isostearate, sorbitan oleate, sorbitan stearate, sorbitan sesquioleate, sorbitan laurate, sorbitan caprylate, and sorbitan trioleate and esters of fatty acids and alkoxylated sorbitan containing, for example, from 20 to 100 EO, such as, for example, sorbitan monooleate (CTFA name: sorbitan oleate, sold by Croda), sorbitan monostearate (CTFA name: sorbitan stearate), sold by the company ICI under the name Span 60, sorbitan monopalmitate (CTFA name: sorbitan palmitate), sold by the company ICI under the name Span 40, and sorbitan tristearate 20 EO (CTFA name: polysorbate 65),
  • esters of fatty acids and glucose or alkylglucose glucose palmitate, alkylglucose sesquistearates such as methylglucose sesquistearate, alkylglucose palmitates such as methylglucose or ethylglucose palmitate, methylglucoside fatty esters, the diester of methylglucoside and oleic acid (CTFA name: Methyl glucose dioleate), the mixed ester of methylglucoside and the mixture of oleic acid/hydroxystearic acid (CTFA name: Methyl glucose dioleate/hydroxystearate), the ester methylglucoside"and r isostear.i'e'acid- ' (CTFA name: Methyl glucose isostearate), the ester of methylglucoside and lauric acid (CTFA name: Methyl glucose laurate), the mixture of monoester and diester of methylglucoside and isostearic acid
  • ethoxylated ethers of fatty acids and glucose or alkylglucose ethoxylated ethers of fatty acids and methylglucose, and in particular the polyethylene glycol ether of the diester of methylglucose and stearic acid with about 20 moles of ethylene oxide (CTFA name: PEG-20 methyl glucose distearate) such as the product marketed under the name Glucam E-20 distearate by AMERCHOL, the polyethylene glycol ether of the mixture of monoester and diester of methyl-glucose and stearic acid with about 20 moles of ethylene oxide (CTFA name: PEG-20 methyl glucose sesquistearate) and in particular the product marketed under the name Glucamate SSE-20 by AMERCHOL and that marketed under the name Grillocose PSE-20 by GOLDSCHMIDT, and mixtures thereof, can, for example, be cited.
  • sucrose esters saccharose palmito-stearate
  • alkylpolyglucosides can be used, and, for example, ethers of a sugar and of C 8- C 24 fatty alcohols including decylglucoside such as the product marketed under the name MYDOL 10 by Kao Chemicals, the product marketed under the name PLANTAREN 2000 by Henkel, and the product marketed under the name ORAMIX NS 10 by Seppic,
  • caprylyl/capryl glucoside such as the product marketed under the name ORAMIX CG 110 by Seppic or under the name LUTENSOL GD 70 by BASF
  • laurylglucoside such as the products marketed under the names PLANTAREN 1200 N and PLANTACARE 1200 by Henkel
  • coco-glucoside such as the product marketed under the name PLANTACARE 818/UP by
  • cetostearyl glucoside possibly mixed with cetostearyl alcohol, marketed, for example, under the name MONTANOV 68 by Seppic, under the name TEGO-CARE CG90 by
  • arachidyl glucoside for example, in the form of the mixture of arachidyl and behenyl alcohols and arachidyl glucoside marketed under the name MONTANOV 202 by Seppic
  • cocoylethylglucoside for example, in the form of the mixture (35/65) with cetyl and stearyl alcohols, marketed under the name MONTANOV 82 by Seppic, and mixtures thereof can in particular be cited.
  • glycerides of alkoxylated plant oils such as mixtures of ethoxylated (200 EO) palm and copra (7 EO) glycerides can also be cited.
  • the nonionic surfactant according to the present invention preferably contains alkenyl or branched C 12 -C 22 acyl chain such as oleyl or isostearyl group. More preferably, the nonionic surfactant according to the present invention is PEG-20 glyceryl triisostearate.
  • the nonionic surfactant may be selected from copolymers of ethylene oxide and of propylene oxide, in particular copolymers of the following formula: HO(C 2 H 4 0) a (C 3 H 6 0) b (C 2 H 4 0) c H in which a; b and c are'integers-suc ⁇ that'a+c ranges-from ⁇ to 100 ' and b ranges from 14 t -60. and mixtures thereof.
  • mono-esters of a polyol and a fatty acid are preferably used in the present invention.
  • esters are polyglyceryl-2 laurate, glyceryl laurate, sorbitan oleate, and glyceryl oleate.
  • the nonionic surfactant may be selected from copolymers of ethylene oxide and of propylene oxide, in particular copolymers of the following formula: HO(C 2 H 4 0) a (C 3 H 6 0) b (C 2 H 4 0) c H in which a, b and c are integers such that a+c ranges from 2 to 100 and b ranges from 14 to 60, and mixtures thereof.
  • the nonionic surfactant may be selected from silicone surfactants. Non-limiting mention may be made of those disclosed in documents US-A-5364633 and US-A-5411744.
  • the silicone surfactant may preferably be a compound of formula (I):
  • Ri, R 2 and R 3 independently of each other, represent a Q-Q alkyl radical or a radical -(CH 2 ) x -(OCH 2 CH 2 ) y -(OCH 2 CH 2 CH 2 ) z -OR 4 , at least one radical R 1; R 2 or R 3 not being an alkyl radical; R 4 being a hydrogen, an alkyl radical or an acyl radical;
  • A is an integer ranging from 0 to 200;
  • B is an integer ranging from 0 to 50; with the proviso that A and B are not simultaneously equal to zero;
  • x is an integer ranging from 1 to 6;
  • y is an integer ranging from 1 to 30;
  • z is an integer ranging from 0 to 5.
  • the alkyl radical is a methyl radical
  • x is an integer ranging from 2 to 6
  • y is an integer ranging from 4 to 30.
  • silicone surfactants of formula (I) mention may be made of the compounds of formula (II):
  • A is an integer ranging from 20 to 105
  • B is an integer ranging from 2 to 10
  • y is an integer ranging from 10 to 20.
  • silicone surfactants of formula (I) mention may also be made of the compounds of formula (III): H-(OCH 2 CH 2 ) y -(CH 2 ) 3 -[(CH 3 ) 2 SiG] A '-(CH 2 ) 3 -(OCH 2 CH 2 ) y -OH (III) in which A' and y are integers ranging from 10 to 20.
  • Compounds of the present invention which may be used are those sold by the company Dow Corning under the names DC 5329, DC 7439-146, DC 2-5695 and Q4-3667.
  • the compounds DC 5329, DC 7439-146 and DC 2-5695 are compounds of formula (III) in which, respectively, A is 22, B is 2 and y is 12; A is 103, B is 10 and y is 12; A is 27, B is 3 and y is 12.
  • the compound Q4-3667 is a compound of formula (III) in which A is 15 and y is 13.
  • the silicone surfactants may include alkyl dimethicone copolyols, notably those having an alkyl radical with 10 to 22 carbon atoms and having 2 to 50 oxyethylene groups and 2 to 50 oxypropylene groups, such as cetyl dimethicone copolyol (INCI name: Cetyl PEG/PPG- 10/1 Dimethicone) such as the product marketed under the designation Abil EM-90 by the company Goldschmidt; lauryl dimethicone copolyol (INCI name: Lauryl
  • PEG/PPG- 18/ 18 Methicone and, for example, a mixture of about 91% lauryl dimethicone copolyol and about 9% isostearyl alcohol, marketed under the designation DOW CORNING 5200 FORMULATION AID by the company Dow Corning; dimethicone copolyols, notably among those having 2 to 50 oxyethylene groups and 2 to 50 oxypropylene groups, which are polyether modified linear or branched polysiloxane polymer, for example, that having 18 oxyethylene groups and 18 oxypropylene groups (PEG/PPG- 18/18 Dimethicone, sold by Shinetsu Chemical), such as the mixture of dimethicone copolyol having 18 oxyethylene groups and 18 oxypropylene groups, cyclopentasiloxane and water (10/88/2), marketed by the company Dow Corning under the designation DC-3225C or DC2-5225C (INCI name:
  • Cyclopentasiloxane/PEG/PPG-18/18 Dimethicone or that having 14 oxyethylene groups and 14 oxypropylene groups (PEG/PPG- 14/ 14 Dimethicone) such as, notably, the mixture of dimethicone copolyol having 14 oxyethylene groups and 14 oxypropylene groups and cyclopentasiloxane (85/15) marketed under the designation Abil EM-97 by the company Goldschmidt (INCI name: Bis-PEG/PPG-14/14 Dimethicone/Cyclopentasiloxane).
  • silicone surfactants may include crosslinked siloxane elastomers, such as polyether substituted or unsubstituted dimethicone/copolyol crosspolymer, dimethicone and
  • dimethicone/PEG-10/15 crosspolymers substituted or unsubstituted dimethicone/polyglyceryl crosspolymer, dimethicone and dimethicone/polyglycerin-3 crosspolymer.
  • suitable emulsifying crosslinked siloxane elastomers are sold or made, for example, under the names of "KSG-210" a polyether-modified dimethicone cross polymer with an INCI name of dimethicone (and) dimethicone/PEG-10/15 crosspolymer, and "KSG-710" a
  • polyglycerin-modified dimethicone crosspolymer with an INCI name of dimethicone (and) dimethicone/polyglycerin-3 crosspolymer, both available from ShinEtsu Silicones of America, Inc. (Akron, Ohio).
  • polyether modified crosslinked siloxane elastomers polyether and alkyl chain modified crosslinked siloxane elastomers, such as PEG-10/lauryl dimethicone cross polymer and PEG-15/lauryl dimethicone cross polymer, which are sold by Shinetsu Chemical under the name of "KSG-310", " SG-320", “ SG-330", or " SG-340, are preferably used in the present invention.
  • the polyether units may be from 2 to 50 , preferably from 5 to 20, and the alkyl chain includes from 8 to 24, preferably from 12 to 22 carbon atoms.
  • the anionic surfactants may be chosen in particular from phosphates and alkyl phosphates, carboxylates, sulphosuccinates, amino acid derivatives, alkyl sulphates, alkyl ether sulphates, sulphonates, isethionates, taurates, polyoxyethylene alkyl ether carboxylic acids, alkyl sulphoacetates, polypeptides, and their mixtures.
  • phosphates and alkyl phosphates for example, of monoalkyl phosphates and dialkyl phosphates, such as lauryl monophosphate, sold under the name MAP 20® by Kao Chemicals, the potassium salt of dodecyl phosphate, the mixture of mono- and diesters (predominantly diester) sold under the name Crafol AP-31® by Cognis, the mixture of octyl phosphate monoester and diester, sold under the name Crafol AP-20® by Cognis, the mixture of ethoxylated (7 mol of EO) 2-butyloctyl phosphate monoester and diester, sold under the name Isofol 12 7 EO-Phosphate Ester® by Condea, the potassium or triethanolamine salt of mono(C 12 -C 13 )alkyl phosphate, sold under the references Arlatone MAP 230K-40® and Arlatone
  • amido ether carboxylates such as sodium lauryl amido ether carboxylate (3 EO), sold under the name Akypo Foam 30® by Kao Chemicals;
  • polyoxyethylenated carboxylic acid salts such as oxyethylenated (6 EO) sodium lauryl ether carboxylate (65/25/10 C 12 -C 14 -C 16 ), sold under the name Akypo Soft 45 NV® by Kao Chemicals, polyoxyethylenated and carboxymethylated fatty acids originating from olive oil, sold under the name Olivem 400® by Biologia E Tecnologia, or oxyethylenated (6 EO) sodium tridecyl ether carboxylate, sold under the name Nikkol ECTD-6NEX® by Nikkol; and salts of fatty acids (soaps) having a C 6 to C 22 alkyl chain which are neutralized with an organic or inorganic base, such as potassium hydroxide, sodium hydroxide,
  • amino acid derivatives of alkali salts of amino acids, such as:
  • sarcosinates such as sodium lauroyl sarcosinate, sold under the name Sarkosyl NL 97® by Ciba or sold under the name Oramix L 30® by Seppic, sodium myristoyl sarcosinate, sold under the name Nikkol Sarcosinate MN® by Nikkol, or sodium palmitoyl sarcosinate, sold under the name Nikkol Sarcosinate PN® by Nikkol;
  • alaninates such as sodium N-lauroyl-N-methylamidopropionate, sold under the name Sodium Nikkol Alaninate LN 30® by Nikkol or sold under the name Alanone ALE® by Kawaken, or triethanolamine N-lauroyl-N-methylalanine, sold under the name Alanone ALTA® by Kawaken;
  • glutamates such as triethanolamine monococoyl glutamate, sold under the name Acylglutamate CT-12® by Ajinomoto, triethanolamine lauroyl glutamate, sold under the name Acylglutamate LT-12® by Ajinomoto;
  • glycine derivatives such as sodiunrN-cocoyl glycinate, sold under the names Amilite GCS-12® and Amilite GCK 12 by Ajinomoto;
  • citrates such as the citric monoester of oxyethylenated (9 mol) coco alcohols, sold under the name Witconol EC 1129 by Goldschmidt; and
  • galacturonates such as sodium dodecyl D-galactoside uronate, sold by Soliance.
  • sulphosuccinates for example, of oxyethylenated (3 EO) lauryl (70/30 C 12 /C 14 ) alcohol monosulphosuccinate, sold under the names Setacin 103 Special® and Rewopol SB-FA 30 K 4® by Witco, the disodium salt of a hemisulphosuccinate of Ci 2 -Ci 4 alcohols, sold under the name Setacin F Special Paste® by Zschimmer Schwarz, oxyethylenated (2 EO) disodium oleamidosulphosuccinate, sold under the name Standapol SH 135® by Cognis, oxyethylenated (5 EO) lauramide monosulphosuccinate, sold under the name Lebon A-5000® by Sanyo, the disodium salt of oxyethylenated (10 EO) lauryl citrate monosulphosuccinate, sold under the name Rewopol SB CS 50®
  • polydimethylsiloxane sulphosuccinates such as disodium PEG- 12 dimethicone sulphosuccinate, sold under the name Mackanate-DC 30 by Maclntyre. 5
  • alkyl sulphates for example, of triethanolamine lauryl sulphate (CTFA name: TEA lauryl sulphate), such as the product sold by Huntsman under the name Empicol TL40 FL or the product sold by Cognis under the name Texapon T42, which products are at 40% in aqueous solution.
  • CTFA name ammonium lauryl sulphate
  • the product sold by Huntsman under the name Empicol AL 30FL which is at 30% in aqueous solution.
  • alkyl ether sulphates for example, of sodium lauryl ether sulphate (CTFA name: sodium laureth sulphate), such as that sold under the names Texapon N40 and Texapon AOS 225 UP by Cognis, or ammonium lauryl ether sulphate (CTFA name: ammonium laureth sulphate), such as that sold under the name Standapol EA-2 by Cognis.
  • CFA name sodium lauryl ether sulphate
  • CTFA name ammonium laureth sulphate
  • cocoylisethionate such as the product sold under the name Jordapon CI P® by Jordan.
  • N-acyl-N-methyltaurates such as sodium N-cocoyl-N-methyltaurate, sold under the name Hostapon LT-SF® by
  • R is a hydrocarbon radical containing from 6 to 40 carbon atoms
  • u, v and w independently of one another, represent numbers of from 0 to 60;
  • x, y and z independently of one another, represent numbers of from 0 to 13 ;
  • R' represents hydrogen, alkyl, preferably C ⁇ -Cn alkyl
  • R is linear or branched, acyclic or cyclic, saturated or unsaturated, aliphatic or aromatic, substituted or unsubstituted.
  • a monovalent functional group such as a halogen atom, a hydroxyl group, a Ci-C 6 alkoxy group, an amino group, a C C 6 alkylamino group, a Cy-C dialkylamino group, a nitro group, a carbonyl group, an acyl group, a carboxyl group, a cyano group and the like.
  • R is a linear or branched, acyclic C 6 -C 40 alkyl or alkenyl group or a C 1 -C 40 alkyl phenyl group, more typically a C 8 -C 24 alkyl or alkenyl group or a C 4 -C 20 alkyl phenyl group, and even more typically a Ci 0 -C 18 alkyl group or alkenyl group or a C 6 -C 16 alkyl phenyl group, which may be substituted; u, v, w, independently of one another, is typically a number from 2 to 20, more typically a number from 3 to 17, and most typically a number from 5 to 15; x, y, z, independently of one another, is typically a number from 2 to 13, more typically a number from 1 to 10, and most typically a number from 0 to 8;
  • the polyoxyethylene alkyl ether carboxylic acids corresponding to formula (IV) can be obtained by alkoxylation of alcohols ROH with ethylene oxide as the sole alkoxide or with several alkoxides and subsequent oxidation.
  • the numbers u, v, and w each represent the degree of alkoxylation. Whereas, on a molecular level, the numbers u, v and w and the total degree of alkoxylation can only be integers, including zero, on a macroscopic level they are mean values in the form of broken numbers.
  • the fatty ether carboxylic acids may include polyoxyalkylenated (C 6 -C 3 o)alkyl ether carboxylic acid and their salts, more specifically polyoxyethylenated (C -C 30 ) alkyl ether carboxylic acids and their salts; polyoxyalkylenated (C 6 -C 3 o)alkylaryl ether carboxylic acids and their salts; and polyoxyalkylenated
  • (C 6 -C 3 o)alkylamido ether carboxylic acids are (C 6 -C 3 o)alkylamido ether carboxylic acids.
  • the fatty ether carboxylic acids are polyoxyethylene (3) to (17) lauryl ether carboxylic acid.
  • Suitable polyoxyethylene alkyl ether carboxylic acids include, but are not limited to, the following representatives referred to by their INCI names: Butoxynol-5 to 19 Carboxylic Acid, Capryleth-4 to 25 Carboxylic Acid, Coceth-7 Carboxylic Acid, C 9-15 Pareth-6 to 8
  • Carboxylic Acid Deceth-7 Carboxylic Acid, Laureth-3 to 17 Carboxylic Acid, such as
  • PPG-3-Deceth-2 Carboxylic Acid Capryleth-2 Carboxylic Acid, Ceteth-13 Carboxylic Acid, Deceth-2 Carboxylic Acid, Hexeth-4 Carboxylic Acid, Isosteareth-6 to 11 Carboxylic Acid, Trudeceth-3 to 12 Carboxylic Acid, Trideceth-3 to 19 Carboxylic Acid, Undeceth-5
  • Carboxylic Acid and mixtures thereof.
  • the (a) surfactant used in the composition according to the present invention can be selected from nonionic surfactants which are mono-esters of a polyol and a fatty acid containing from 8 to 24 carbon atoms, wherein the polyol is preferably selected from glycerol, sorbitan, and diglycerol and the fatty acid is preferably selected from isolauric acid and oleic acid, in particular esters of polyglyceryl-2 laurate, glyceryl laurate, sorbitan oleate, and glyceryl oleate, and silicone surfactants which are prefcrably polyether modified dimethicone such as PEG/PPG- 18/18 dimethicone, and polyether and alkyl modified dimethicone cross polymer such as PEG-15/lauryl dimethicone cross polymer, and anionic surfactants which are polyoxyethylene alkyl ether carboxylic acids such as polyoxyethylene (3) to (17) lauryl
  • the amount of the (a) surfactants in the composition according to the present invention is not limited, and may range from 0.1 to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.5 to 15% by weight, more preferably from 1 to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • composition according to the present invention comprises (b) at least one oil.
  • Two or more (b) oils may be used in combination.
  • a single type of oil or a combination of different types of oil may be used.
  • the (b) oil may be included in both the external and internal oil phases.
  • oil means a fatty compound or substance which is in the form of a liquid or a paste (non-solid) at room temperature (25°C) under atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg). These oil(s) may be volatile or non-volatile, preferably non-volatile.
  • the (b) oil may be a non-polar oil such as a hydrocarbon oil, a silicone oil, or the like; a polar oil such as a plant or animal oil and an ester oil or an ether oil; or a mixture thereof.
  • Hydrocarbon oils may be chosen from:
  • linear or branched, optionally cyclic, C 6 -C 16 lower alkanes examples that may be mentioned include hexane, undecane, dodecane, tridecane, and isoparaffins, for instance isohexadecane, isododecane and isodecane; and
  • hydrocarbon oils As preferable examples of hydrocarbon oils, mention may be made of, for example, linear or branched hydrocarbons such as isohexadecane, isododecane, squalane, mineral oil (e.g., liquid paraffin), paraffin, vaseline or petrolatum, naphthalenes, and the like; hydrogenated polyisobutene, isoeicosane, and decene/butene copolymer; and mixtures thereof.
  • linear or branched hydrocarbons such as isohexadecane, isododecane, squalane, mineral oil (e.g., liquid paraffin), paraffin, vaseline or petrolatum, naphthalenes, and the like; hydrogenated polyisobutene, isoeicosane, and decene/butene copolymer; and mixtures thereof.
  • silicone oils mention may be made of, for example, linear
  • organopolysiloxanes such as dimethylpolysiloxane, methylphenylpolysiloxane,
  • silicone oil is chosen from liquid polydialkylsiloxanes, especially liquid polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMS) and liquid polyorganosiloxanes comprising at least one aryl group.
  • PDMS liquid polydimethylsiloxanes
  • silicone oils may also be organomodified.
  • the organomodified silicones that can be used in accordance with the present invention are silicone oils as defined above and comprising in their structure one or more organofunctional groups attached via a
  • Organopolysiloxanes are defined in greater detail in Walter Noll's Chemistry and Technology of Silicones (1968), Academic Press. They may be volatile or non- volatile.
  • the silicones are more particularly chosen from those having a boiling point of between 60°C and 260°C, and even more particularly from:
  • cyclic polydialkylsiloxanes comprising from 3 to 7 and preferably 4 to 5 silicon atoms.
  • cyclic polydialkylsiloxanes comprising from 3 to 7 and preferably 4 to 5 silicon atoms.
  • These are, for example, octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane sold in particular under the name Volatile Silicone® 7207 by Union Carbide or Silbione® 70045 V2 by Rhodia,
  • dimethylsiloxane/methylalkylsiloxane such as Silicone Volatile® FZ 3109 sold by the company Union Carbide, of formula:
  • Non-volatile polydialkylsiloxanes may also be used. These non-volatile silicones are more particularly chosen from polydialkylsiloxanes, among which mention may be made mainly of polydimethylsiloxanes containing trimethylsilyl end groups.
  • oils of the Mirasil ® series sold by the company Rhodia the oils of the 200 series from the company Dow Corning, such as DC200 with a viscosity of 60 000 mm /s;
  • silicones containing dimethylsilanol end groups known under the name dimethiconol (CTFA), such as the oils of the 48 series from the company Rhodia.
  • CTFA dimethiconol
  • silicones containing aryl groups are polydiarylsiloxanes, especially
  • polydiphenylsiloxanes and polyalkylarylsiloxanes examples include the products sold under the following names:
  • silicones of the PK series from Bayer such as the product PK20;
  • oils of the SF series from General Electric such as SF 1023, SF 1154, SF 1250 and SF 1265.
  • plant oils examples include, for example, linseed oil, camellia oil, macadamia nut oil, corn oil, mink oil, olive oil, avocado oil, sasanqua oil, castor oil, safflower oil, jojoba oil, sunflower oil, almond oil, rapeseed oil, sesame oil, soybean oil, peanut oil, and mixtures thereof.
  • animal oils mention may be made of, for example, squalene and squalane.
  • alkane oils such as isododecane and isohexadecane
  • ester oils such as isododecane and isohexadecane
  • ether oils such as triglycerides
  • the ester oils are preferably liquid esters of saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched CrC 26 aliphatic monoacids or polyacids and of saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched Q-C 26 aliphatic monoalcohols or polyalcohols, the total number of carbon atoms of the esters being greater than or equal to 10.
  • At least one from among the alcohol and the acid from which the esters of the invention are derived is branched.
  • ethyl palmitate ethyl hexyl palmitate
  • isopropyl palmitate dicaprylyl carbonate
  • alkyl myristates such as isopropyl myristate or ethyl myristate
  • isocetyl stearate 2-ethylhexyl isononanoate
  • isononyl isononanoate isodecyl neopentanoate and isostearyl neopentanoate.
  • Esters of C 4 -C 22 dicarboxylic or tricarboxylic acids and of C C 22 alcohols and esters of monocarboxylic, dicarboxylic or tricarboxylic acids and of non-sugar C 4 -C 26 dihydroxy, trihydroxy, tetrahydroxy or pentahydroxy alcohols may also be used.
  • diisopropyl sebacate bis(2-ethylhexyl) sebacate; diisopropyl adipate; di-n-propyl adipate; dioctyl adipate; bis(2-ethylhexyl) adipate; diisostearyl adipate; bis(2-ethylhexyl) maleate; triisopropyl citrate; triisocetyl citrate; triisostearyl citrate; glyceryl trilactate; glyceryl trioctanoate; trioctyldodecyl citrate; trioleyl citrate; neopentyl glycol diheptanoate; diethylene glycol diisononanoate.
  • sugar esters and diesters of C 6 -C 30 and preferably Ci 2 -C 22 fatty acids.
  • sucrose means oxygen-bearing hydrocarbon-based compounds containing several alcohol functions, with or without aldehyde or ketone functions, and which comprise at least 4 carbon atoms. These sugars may be monosaccharides, oligosaccharides or polysaccharides.
  • suitable sugars include sucrose (or saccharose), glucose, galactose, ribose, fucose, maltose, fructose, mannose, arabinose, xylose and lactose, and derivatives thereof, especially alkyl derivatives, such as methyl derivatives, for instance methylglucose.
  • the sugar esters of fatty acids may be chosen especially from the group comprising the esters or mixtures of esters of sugars described previously and of linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C 6 -C 30 and preferably C 12 -C 22 fatty acids. If they are unsaturated, these compounds may have one to three conjugated or non-conjugated carbon-carbon double bonds.
  • esters according to this variant may also be selected from monoesters, diesters, triesters, tetraesters and polyesters, and mixtures thereof.
  • esters may be, for example, oleates, laurates, palmitates, myristates, behenates, cocoates, stearates, linoleates, linolenates, caprates and arachidonates, or mixtures thereof such as, especially, oleopalmitate, oleostearate and palmitostearate mixed esters, as well as pentaerythrityl tetraethyl hexanoate.
  • monoesters and diesters and especially sucrose, glucose or methylglucose monooleates or dioleates, stearates, behenates, oleopalmitates, linoleates, linolenates and oleostearates.
  • ester oils mention may be made of, for example, diisopropyl adipate, dioctyl adipate, 2-ethylhexyl hexanoate, ethyl laurate, cetyl octanoate, octyldodecyl octanoate, isodecyl neopentanoate, myristyl propionate, 2-ethylhexyl 2-ethylhexanoate, 2-ethylhexyl octanoate, 2-ethylhexyl caprylate/caprate, methyl palmitate, ethyl palmitate, isopropyl palmitate, dicaprylyl carbonate, isopropyl lauroyl sarcosinate, isononyl
  • isononanoate ethylhexyl palmitate, isohexyl laurate, hexyl laurate, isocetyl stearate, isopropyl isostearate, isopropyl myristate, isodecyl oleate, glyceryl tri(2-ethylhexanoate),
  • artificial triglycerides mention may be made of, for example, capryl caprylyl glycerides, glyceryl trimyristate, glyceryl tripalmitate, glyceryl trilinolenate, glyceryl trilaurate, glyceryl tricaprate, glyceryl tricaprylate, glyceryl tri(caprate/caprylate) and glyceryl tri(caprate/caprylate/li noirate).
  • capryl caprylyl glycerides glyceryl trimyristate, glyceryl tripalmitate, glyceryl trilinolenate, glyceryl trilaurate, glyceryl tricaprate, glyceryl tricaprylate, glyceryl tri(caprate/caprylate) and glyceryl tri(caprate/caprylate/li noirate).
  • the (b) oil be chosen from apolar hydrocarbon oils which are in the form of a liquid at a room temperature, in particular a mineral oil, such as paraffin. It may be also preferable that the (b) oil be chosen from oils with molecular weight below 600 g/mol.
  • the (b) oil has a low molecular weight such as below 600 g/mol, more preferably below 500 g/mol, in particular below 400 g/mol, chosen among ester or ether oils with a short hydrocarbon chain or chains (Cj-C 18 , e.g., isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, isononyl isononanoate, dicaprylyl carbonate, ethyl hexyl palmitate, dicaprylyl ether, and in particular sarcosinate such as isopropyl lauroyl sarcosinate), hydrocarbon oils with a short alkyl chain or chains (Ci-C 18 , e.g., isododecane, isohexadecane, and squalane), and short alcohol type oils such as octyldodecanol.
  • a short hydrocarbon chain or chains Cj-C 18 , e.g., isoprop
  • the (b) oil be selected from the group consisting of hydrocarbon oils, esters of C 4 -C 22 dicarboxylic or tricarboxylic acids and of C1-C22 alcohols, and esters of C 4 -C 2 2 monocarboxylic, dicarboxylic or tricarboxylic acids and of non-sugar C 4 -C 26 dihydroxy, C 4 -C 15 trihydroxy, tetrahydroxy or pentahydroxy alcohols, and mixtures thereof.
  • the (b) oil be chosen from ester oils such as isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, isononyl isononanoate, dicaprylyl carbonate, ethyl hexyl palmitate, dicaprylyl ether, and in particular sarcosinate such as isopropyl lauroyl sarcosinate, artificial triglycerides such as capryl caprylyl glycerides, and silicon oils.
  • ester oils such as isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, isononyl isononanoate, dicaprylyl carbonate, ethyl hexyl palmitate, dicaprylyl ether, and in particular sarcosinate such as isopropyl lauroyl sarcosinate, artificial triglycerides such as capryl caprylyl glycerides, and silicon oils.
  • the amount of the (b) oil in the composition according to the present invention is not limited, and may range from 1 to 40% by weight, preferably from 2 to 30% by weight, more preferably from 5 to 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the (b) oils which constitute the internal oil phase are selected from a group consisting of the ester oils such as isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, ethyl hexyl palmitate, triglycerides such as capryl caprylyl glycerides, sarcosinate such as isopropyl lauroyl sarcosinate, hydrocarbon oils such as isohexadecane, mineral oils such as paraffin.
  • ester oils such as isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, ethyl hexyl palmitate, triglycerides such as capryl caprylyl glycerides, sarcosinate such as isopropyl lauroyl sarcosinate, hydrocarbon oils such as isohexadecane, mineral oils such as paraffin.
  • the amount of the (b) oil in the internal oil phase of the- presenHnvention is preferably 70% by weight or more, more preferably 80% by weight or more, and more preferably 90% by weight or more.
  • the (b) oils which constitute the external oil phase are selected from a group consisting of the ester oils such as isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, ethyl hexyl palmitate, triglycerides such as capryl caprylyl glycerides, sarcosinate such as isopropyl lauroyl sarcosinate, hydrocarbon oils such as isohexadecane, mineral oils such as paraffin, and the silicone oils.
  • ester oils such as isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, ethyl hexyl palmitate, triglycerides such as capryl caprylyl glycerides, sarcosinate such as isopropyl lauroyl sarcosinate, hydrocarbon oils such as isohexadecane, mineral oils such as paraffin, and the silicone oils.
  • the amount of the (b) oil in the external oil phase of the present invention is preferably 70% by weight or more, more preferably 80% by weight or more, and more preferably 90% by weight or more.
  • composition according to the present invention comprises (c) at least one UV filter.
  • UV filters Two or more UV filters may be used in combination.
  • a single type of UV filter or a combination of different types of UV filters may be used.
  • the term "UV” here comprises the UV-B region (260-320 run in wavelength) and the UV-A region (320-400 nm in wavelength). Therefore, a UV filter means any material which has filtering effects in the wavelength of UV-A and/or UV-B regions.
  • the UV filter means any material which has filtering effects in the wavelength of UV-A and/or UV-B regions.
  • the UV-B region 260-320 run in wavelength
  • UV-A region 320-400 nm in wavelength
  • composition according to the present invention may cover both the UV-A and UV-B regions.
  • the UV filters may be organic UV filters. Both the hydrophilic UV filters and hydrophobic UV filters can be used in the composition according to the present invention.
  • hydrophilic UV filter used herein is understood to mean any agent which screens out UV radiation and which is capable of being completely dissolved in the molecular state in the aqueous phase or of being dispersed in the colloidal form (for example in the micelle form) in the aqueous phase of the 0/W/O emulsion. Therefore, the hydrophilic UV filters may be formulated in the internal aqueous phase of the present invention.
  • hydrophobic UV filter used herein is understood to mean any agent which screens out UV radiation and which is capable of being completely dissolved in the molecular state in an oil phase or of being dispersed in the colloidal form (for example in the micelle form) in the oil phase of the 0/W/O emulsion. Therefore, the hydrophobic UV filters may be formulated in the external and internal oil phases of the present invention.
  • the hydrophilic UV filter(s) used for the present invention may be active in the UV-A and/or UV-B region, preferably in the both the UV-A and UV-B regions in alone or a combination.
  • the hydrophilic UV-A filter includes, but not limited to:
  • Benzylidenecamphor derivatives such as Terephthalylidene Dicamphor Sulfonic Acid, for exmple, manufactured under the name "Mexoryl SX" by Chimex,
  • the hydrophilic UV-B filter includes, but not limited to:
  • PABA p-Aminobenzoic
  • Phenylbenzimidazole deruvatuves such as phenylbenzimidazole sulfonic acid, marketed under the name “Eusolex 232" by Merck, and disodium phenyl dibenzimidazole
  • Benzylidene Camphor Sulfonic Acid such as manufactured under the name "Mexoryl SL” by
  • the hydrophilic UV-A and UV-B filter includes, but not limited to:
  • Benzophenone-4 such as sold under the trade name "Uvinul MS40" by
  • the hydrophilic UV filters are selected from a group consisting of
  • benzylidenecamphor derivatives such as terephthalylidene dicamphor sulfonic acid, and phenylbenzimidazole deruvatuves, such as phenylbenzimidazole sulfonic acid.
  • the amount of the hydrophilic UV filter(s) in the composition may be from 1 to 40% by weight, preferably from 3 to 30% by weight, and more preferably from 5 to 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the hydrophobic filters of the present invention can be formulated in both the external oil phase and the internal oil phase, or either the external oil phase or the internal oil phase.
  • the hydrophobic UV filter(s) used for the present invention may be active in the UV-A and/or UV-B region, preferably in the both of the UV-A and UV-B regions alone or a combination.
  • Hydrophobic UV-A filters used in the present invention may include, but are not limited to, aminobenzophenone compounds, dibenzoylmethane compounds, anthranilic acid compounds, and 4,4-diarylbutadiene compounds.
  • aminobenzophenone compounds mention may be made of n-hexyl
  • 2-(4-diethylamino-2-hydroxybenzoyl)benzoate the alternative name of which is diethylamino hydroxybenzoyl hexyl benzoate (DHHB), sold under the trade nomw "Uvinul A+” from BASF.
  • DHHB diethylamino hydroxybenzoyl hexyl benzoate
  • BASF BASF
  • dibenzoylmethane compounds mention may be made of 4-isopropyldibenzoylmethane, sold under the name of "Eusolex 8020" from Merck,
  • anthranilic acid compounds mention may be made of menthyl anthranilate marketed under the name "NEC- HELIPAN MA" by Symrise.
  • NRC- HELIPAN MA menthyl anthranilate
  • 4,4-diarylbutadiene compounds mention may be made of 1 , 1 -dicarboxy
  • Hydrophobic UV-B filters used in the present invention may include, but are not limited to, triazine compounds, para-aminobenzoic acid compounds, salicylic compounds, cinnnamate compounds, ⁇ , ⁇ -diphenylacrylate compounds, benzylidenecamphor compounds, imidazoline compounds, benzalmalonate compounds, and mecocyanine compounds.
  • triazine compounds mention may be made of ethylhexyl triazone, marketed under the name "UVINUL T-150" by BASF, diethylhexyl butamido triazone, marketed under the name “UVASORB HEB” by SIGMA 2V, 2,4,6-tris(dineopentyl 4'-aminobenzalmalonate)-s-triazine, 2,4,6-tris(diisobutyl 4' -aminobenzalmalonate)-s-triazine, 2,4-bis(dineopentyl
  • para-aminobenzoic acid derivates mention may be made of para-aminobenzoates (PABA), for example, ethyl PAB A (para-aminobenzoate), ethyl dihydroxypropyl PABA, and ethylhexyl dimethyl PABA, marketed under the name "ESCALOL 5972 from ISP.
  • PABA para-aminobenzoates
  • salicylic compounds mention may be made of homosalate, marketed under the name "Eusolex HMS” by Rona/EM industries, and ethylhexyl salicylate, marketed under the name "NEO HELIOPAN OS” by Symrise.
  • cinnnamate compounds mention may be made of ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate, marketed under the name "PARSOL MCX” by DSM NUTRITIONAL PRODUCTS, isopropyl ethoxy cinnamate, isoamyl methoxy cinnamate, marketed under the name “NEO HELIOPAN E 1000” by Symrise, diisopropyl methylcinnamate, cinoxate, and glyceryl ethylhexanoate dimethoxycynnamate.
  • ⁇ , ⁇ -diphenylacrylate compounds mention may be made of octocrylene, marketed under the name "UVINUL N539" by BASF, and
  • etocrylene marketed under the name "UNIVUL N35" by BASF.
  • benzylidenecamphor compounds mention may be made of 3 -benzylidene camphor, marketed under the name “MEXORYL SD” from CHIMEX, methylbenzylidene camphor, marketed under the name “EUSOLEX 6300” by MERCK, polyacrylamidomethyl benzylidene Camphor, marketed under the name “MEXORYL SW” by CHIMEX.
  • imidazoline compounds mention may be made of ethylhexyl dimetoxybenzylidene dioxoimidazoline propionate.
  • benzalmalonate compounds mention may be made of polyorganosiloxane containing a j benzalmalonate moiety, for example, Polysilicone-15, marketed under the name "Parsol SLX” by DSM NUTRITIONAL PRODUCTS, and di-neopentyl 4'-mefhoxybenzalmalonate.
  • the hydrophobic UV- A and UV-B filters used in the present invention include, but not limited to:
  • Benzophenone compounds such as benzophenone-1 marketed underthe name "UVINUL 400" by BASF, benzophenone-2 marketed under the name “UNIVUL 500” by BASF, benzophenone-3 or oxybenzone marketed under the name “UVINUL M40” by BASF, benzophenone-6 marketed under the name “Helisorb 11” by norquay, benzophenone- 8 marketed under the name "Spectra-Sorb UV-24" by American Cyanamid, benzophenone- 10, benzophenone-11, and benzophenone- 12;
  • the hydrophobic UV filters are selected from cinnnamate compounds, such as ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate, isopropyl ethoxy cinnamate, isoamyl methoxy cinnamate, diisopropyl methylcinnamate, cinoxate, and glyceryl ethylhexanoate dimethoxycynnamate.
  • cinnnamate compounds such as ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate, isopropyl ethoxy cinnamate, isoamyl methoxy cinnamate, diisopropyl methylcinnamate, cinoxate, and glyceryl ethylhexanoate dimethoxycynnamate.
  • the amount of the hydrophobic UV filter(s) in the internal oil phase is not limited, but may be from 0.1 to 5% by weight, preferably less than 2% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the amount of the hydrophobic UV filter(s) in the external oil phase is not limited, but may be from 1 to 15% by weight, preferably less than 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the amount of the (c) UV filter(s) including hydrophilic and hydrophobic UV filter(s) may be from 1 to 40% by weight, preferably from 2 to 30% by weight, more preferably from 5 to 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • composition according to the present invention comprises (d) water.
  • the (d) water composes the high internal aqueous phase of the present invention.
  • the amount of (c) water is not limited, and may be from 40 to 99% by weight, preferably from 50 to 95% by weight, and more preferably 60 to 90% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the amount of the (c) water in the high internal aqueous phase may be more than 60% by weight, preferably more than 70% by weight, and more preferably more than 80% by weight, relative to the total weight of the aqueous phase.
  • composition according to the present invention may also comprise at least one additional ingredient.
  • the composition according to the present invention may comprise at least one thickener.
  • the thickener used in the composition according to the present invention may include water soluble polymers such as, for example, high molecular weight crosslinked homopolymers of acrylic acid, and Acrylates/Ci 0 - 3 o Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer, such as the Carbopol® and Pemulen®; anionic acrylate polymers such as Salcare® AST and cationic acrylate polymers such as Salcare® SC96; acrylamidopropylttrimonium chloride/acrylamide; hydroxyethyl methacrylate polymers, Steareth-10 Allyl Ether/ Acrylate Copolymer; Acrylates/Beheneth-25 Metacrylate Copolymer, known as Aculyn® 28; glyceryl polymethacrylate,
  • the composition according to the present invention is substantially free from thickeners.
  • the composition according to the present invention includes less than 5% by weight, preferably less than 2% by weight, and more preferably less than 1% by weight of thickeners, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • composition according to the present invention may include at least one cosmetic active ingredient.
  • active ingredient used herein means an organic compound having any cosmetic or dermatological effects.
  • the active ingredients used in the composition are selected from skin- whitening ingredients, antiaging ingredients, antioxidant ingredients, and fragrances.
  • the skin-whitening ingredients mention can be made, for example, L-ascorbic acid and its derivatives, such as ascorbyl tetraisopalmitate, alkoxysalicylic acids, hydroquinone glycosides and its derivatives, tranexamic acids and its derivatives, resorcinol or resorcinol derivatives, such as phenylethyl resorcinol, koji acids and its derivatives, ellagic acid, and resveratrol.
  • the skin-whitening ingredients are selected from resorcinol or resorcinol derivatives.
  • vitamins such as retinol, and saponin, and allantoin.
  • antioxidant ingredients mention can be made, for example, carotenoids such as ⁇ -cryptoxanthin, and tocopherol and its derivatives, and flavonoids.
  • These cosmetic active ingredients can be formulated in the external and/or internal oil phases.
  • the amount of the cosmetic active ingredient in the internal oil phase is not limited, but may be from 0.1 to 5% by weight, preferably less than 2% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the amount of the cosmetic active ingredient in the external oil phase is not limited, but may be from 1 to 15% by weight, preferably less than 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • a saturation degree of these cosmetic active ingredients in the oil phase is preferably from 0.7 to 1.
  • the saturation degree is defined herein as a ratio between the concentration of the active ingredient in the oil phase and the maximum solubility of the active ingredients in the oil phase measured at room temperature and under atmospheric pressure.
  • the composition according to the present invention may comprise at least one cosmetically acceptable hydrophilic organic solvent (water soluble solvent) in the high internal aqueous phase.
  • the hydrophilic solvent used in the composition according to the present invention may include, for example, substantially linear or branched lower mono-alcohols having from 1 to 8 carbon atoms, such as ethanol, propanol, butanol, isopropanol, and isobutanol; aromatic alcohols, such asbenzyl alcohol and phenylethyl alcohol; polyols or polyol ethers, such as propylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, isoprene glycol, butylene glycol, glycerol, sorbitol, ethylene glycol monomethyl, monoethyl and monobutyl ethers, propylene glycol ethers, such as propylene glycol monomethylether, diethylene glycol alkyl ethers, such as diethylene glycol monoethylether or monobutylether
  • the amount of the hydrophilic organic solvent(s) in the composition may be less than 10% by weight, preferably less than 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the composition is free from the hydrophilic organic solvent.
  • the composition according to the present invention may comprise a neutralizer, such as ethanol amine in the high internal aqueous phase.
  • the amount of the neutralizer is not limited, but may be from 1 to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the
  • composition may comprise other additives usually used in cosmetics.
  • the additives may be selected from the group consisting of anionic, cationic, nonionic or amphoteric polymers; peptides and derivatives thereof; protein hydrolyzates; swelling agents and penetrating agents; natural or synthetic thickeners for (b) oils; acidifying agents; inorganic or organic fillers; antioxidants; preservatives; bactericides; suspending agents; sequestering agents; opacifying agents; dyes; inorganic UV filters; vitamins or provitamins; moisturizing agents; self-tanning compounds; antiwrinkle active principles; preserving agents, stabilizers; and mixtures thereof.
  • the amount of the additional ingredient(s) is not limited, but may be from 0.1 to 30% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition according to the present invention.
  • the composition can be in the form of a lotion, a milky lotion, a cream, a gel, a paste, or a serum.
  • the composition preferably exhibits a pH which respects the skin and which generally ranges from 3 to 8 and preferably from 4.5 to 7.
  • the composition according to the present invention can be manufactured by two steps comprising a nano-emulsion preparing step and a high internal phase emulsion preparing step.
  • the nano-emulsion preparing step can be carried out by a low energy method which is known in the art. Concretely, the nano-emulsion preparing step can be carried out by gently mixing the components of the (a) surfactant, the (b) oil, and the (d) water, : with'orwithout'the (c) UV filter and other ingredients together, for example, at room temperature (25°C).
  • the high internal phase emulsion preparing step can be carried out by mixing the obtained
  • nano-emulsion, the (b) oil, and the (a) surfactant with or without the (c) UV filter at a high speed, for example with a high speed mixer (DAC 400FVZ, HAUSCHILD, Engineering) at 2750 rpm for 2 to 4 minutes at room temperature.
  • DAC 400FVZ, HAUSCHILD, Engineering at 2750 rpm for 2 to 4 minutes at room temperature.
  • composition according to the present invention may preferably be used as a sun care composition.
  • the composition according to the present invention may be intended for application onto a keratin substance such as the skin, the scalp and/or the lips, preferably the skin.
  • the composition according to the present invention can be used for a cosmetic process for the skin.
  • the cosmetic process or cosmetic use for a keratin substance such as skin, according to the present invention comprises, at least, the step of applying the composition according to the present invention onto the keratin substance.
  • the present invention can also relates to a process of protecting a keratin substance from ultraviolet radiation comprising applying to the keratin substance the composition according to the present invention, as well as a process of absorbing ultraviolet light comprising applying the composition according to the present invention and subjecting the keratin substance to ultraviolet light. These processes can be defined as non-therapeutic processes.
  • composition according to the present invention can be used in the topical sun care composition in the form of a lotion, a milky lotion, a cream, a gel, a paste, or a serum.
  • Example 1 The following composition according to Example 1, shown in Table 1, was prepared as following.
  • the numerical values for the amounts of the ingredients are all based on "% by weight” as active raw materials in Table 1.
  • an O/W nanoemulsion was prepared in the following way:
  • the final composition of the nanoemulsion is composed of lg of ethyl hexyl palmitate, 0.5g of ethyl hexyl methoxycinnamate, 1.5 g of laureth-5 carboxylic acid, 2.85g of phenylbenzimidazole sulfonic acid, 12.35g of terephthalylidene dicamphor sulfonic acid, 3.8g of triethanolamine and 78 g of water.
  • O/W nanoemulsion 85 g of O/W nanoemulsion was premixed with 10 g of isohexadecane and 5g of PEG-15/lauryl dimethicone cross polymer (HLB ⁇ 8, obtained from Shinetsu Chemical).
  • the obtained premix was further mixed by using a speed mixer (DAC 400FVZ, HAUSCHILD, Engineering) at 2750 rpm for 3 minutes to obtain an 0/W/O multiple emulsion.
  • O/W emulsion was prepared in the following way: lg of ethyl hexyl palmitate, 0.5g of ethyl hexyl methoxycinnamate, 1.5 g of laureth-5 carboxylic acid, 2.85g of phenylbenzimidazole sulfonic acid, 12.35g of terephthalylidene dicamphor sulfonic acid, 3.8g of triethanolamine and 78 g of water were mixed together by using a magnetic stirrer and milky O/W emulsion was prepared.
  • the 85 g of O/W emulsion was premixed with 10 g of isohexadecane and 5g of PEG-15/lauryl dimethicone cross polymer (HLB ⁇ 8, obtained from Shinetsu Chemical).
  • the obtained pre-mixture was further mixed by using a speed mixer (DAC 400FVZ, HAUSCHILD, Engineering) at 2750 rpm for 3 minutes to obtain an 0/W/O multiple emulsion.
  • compositions according to Example 1 and Comparative Example 1 were evaluated as follows.
  • Particle size analyzer (Vasco, Cordoun Technologies) was used to determine the droplet size of the oil phase of the O/W nanoemulsion of Example 1 and O/W emulsion of Comparative Example 1, which were obtained during the preparing process of the 0/W/O emulsions.
  • the refractive index and viscosity of the water were 1.33 and 0.89 cp at 25 °C.
  • the droplet size of the internal aqueous phase of the 0/W/O multiple emulsion was determined by using OLYMPUS GX 71 (OLYMPUS) microscopy.
  • the sample for SPF value measurement was prepared by placing 20mg of each of the compositions according to Example 1 and Comparative Example 1 on the plate (Helio plate HD 6, PMMA, 50 mm x 50 mm) like dots, then spreading them 3 times with finger over the plate.
  • the in vitro SPF value was calculated from the UV absorbance data, which was measured with a UV spectrophotometer (UV-2000S, Labsphere Inc) on the diffuse
  • the steady shear viscosity was measured using DHR2 rheometer (TA instrument) with a parallel-plate geometry (40 mm) with set gap 0.2 mm at 25 °C.
  • the sample amount was 2g and 0.01 to 1000 1/s of shear rate was applied.
  • the yield stress value of the compositions according to Example 1 and Comparative Example 1 was calculated from the shear rate vs stress curve where those parameters were measured using DHR2 rheometer (TA instrument) with a parallel-plate geometry (40 mm) with set gap 0.2 mm at 25 °C. The sample amount was 2g and 0.01 to 1000 1/s of shear rate was applied.
  • the composition according to Example 1 exhibited improved UV protecting effect due to its high SPF value. In addition, it also exhibited a good stability according to high viscosity. In contrast, the composition according to Comparative Example 1, which includes macro-sized oil droplets as the internal oil phase, exhibited poor UV protecting effect and a lower viscosity.
  • composition according to Example 1 which includes nano-sized oil droplets as the internal oil phase, exhibited a better stability according to its high yield stress value.
  • composition according to Comparative Example 2 which includes macro-sized " oil droplets as the internal oil phase, exhibited a lower stability.
  • compositions according to Examples2 to 3 and Comparative Example 2 were evaluated as follows.
  • Comparative Example 2 were observed with the naked eye to confirm the formation of a multiple emulsion.
  • the compositions of Examples 2 to 3 and Comparative Example 2 as well as results of appearance observation are shown in Table 2.
  • composition according to each of Examples 2 and 3, which include surfactant with HLB of less than 13, could form a multiple emulsion.
  • composition according to Comparative Example 2 which includes a surfactant with HLB of 13, could not form a multiple emulsion.

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Abstract

La présente invention concerne une composition cosmétique de protection solaire, en particulier une composition cosmétique de protection solaire sous forme d'une émulsion multiple d'huile dans eau dans huile (H/E/H) présentant une phase huileuse externe, une phase aqueuse interne élevée dispersée dans la phase huileuse externe, et une phase huileuse interne dispersée dans la phase aqueuse interne élevée, comprenant : (a) au moins un tensioactif présentant un rapport HLB inférieur à 13 ; (b) au moins une huile ; (c) au moins un filtre UV ; et (d) de l'eau, la quantité de la phase aqueuse interne élevée étant supérieure ou égale à 60 % en poids par rapport au poids total de la composition et la taille des gouttelettes de la phase huileuse interne étant inférieure à 200 nm.
PCT/JP2016/075741 2015-12-22 2016-08-26 Composition en émulsion à phase interne élevée pour améliorer son fps et sa rhéologie WO2017110152A1 (fr)

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CN108367177B (zh) 2021-12-21

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