WO2017097667A1 - Composition cosmétique pour le revêtement de fibres de kératine - Google Patents

Composition cosmétique pour le revêtement de fibres de kératine Download PDF

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Publication number
WO2017097667A1
WO2017097667A1 PCT/EP2016/079488 EP2016079488W WO2017097667A1 WO 2017097667 A1 WO2017097667 A1 WO 2017097667A1 EP 2016079488 W EP2016079488 W EP 2016079488W WO 2017097667 A1 WO2017097667 A1 WO 2017097667A1
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Prior art keywords
poly
composition
weight
equal
nonionic surfactant
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PCT/EP2016/079488
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English (en)
Inventor
Stéphane DOUEZAN
Philippe Ilekti
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L'oreal
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Publication of WO2017097667A1 publication Critical patent/WO2017097667A1/fr

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Classifications

    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q1/00—Make-up preparations; Body powders; Preparations for removing make-up
    • A61Q1/02—Preparations containing skin colorants, e.g. pigments
    • A61Q1/10—Preparations containing skin colorants, e.g. pigments for eyes, e.g. eyeliner, mascara
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/33—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
    • A61K8/39—Derivatives containing from 2 to 10 oxyalkylene groups
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/84—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions otherwise than those involving only carbon-carbon unsaturated bonds
    • A61K8/86—Polyethers
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/84—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions otherwise than those involving only carbon-carbon unsaturated bonds
    • A61K8/87—Polyurethanes
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K2800/00—Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
    • A61K2800/40—Chemical, physico-chemical or functional or structural properties of particular ingredients
    • A61K2800/54—Polymers characterized by specific structures/properties
    • A61K2800/548—Associative polymers
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K2800/00—Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
    • A61K2800/40—Chemical, physico-chemical or functional or structural properties of particular ingredients
    • A61K2800/59—Mixtures
    • A61K2800/596—Mixtures of surface active compounds

Definitions

  • the present invention relates to a cosmetic composition for coating keratin fibres, and in particular the eyelashes or the eyebrows.
  • said cosmetic composition is a composition for making up and optionally caring for the eyelashes.
  • the present invention also relates to a process for coating keratin fibres, in particular a process for making up and optionally caring for the eyelashes.
  • the present invention also relates to particular uses.
  • the composition used may in particular be in the form of an eyelash product such as a mascara, or an eyebrow product. More preferentially, the invention relates to a mascara.
  • the term "mascara” is intended to mean a composition intended to be applied to the eyelashes: it may be an eyelash makeup composition, an eyelash makeup base (also known as a base coat), a composition to be applied over a mascara, also known as a top coat, or else a cosmetic composition for treating the eyelashes.
  • the mascara is more particularly intended for human eyelashes, but also false eyelashes.
  • Mascaras are in particular prepared according to two types of formulation: water-based mascaras known as cream mascaras, in the form of a dispersion of waxes in water; anhydrous mascaras or mascaras with a low water content, known as waterproof mascaras, in the form of dispersions of waxes in organic solvents.
  • water-based mascaras known as cream mascaras, in the form of a dispersion of waxes in water
  • anhydrous mascaras or mascaras with a low water content known as waterproof mascaras, in the form of dispersions of waxes in organic solvents.
  • anhydrous mascaras have good water resistance, but the level of volume is generally low and the makeup removal is difficult, whereas water-based mascaras have lower water resistance but a high level of volume and easier makeup removal.
  • the present patent application more specifically relates to what is known as water-based mascaras.
  • Keratin fibre coating compositions of such a mascara type generally consist of at least one fatty phase generally formed from one or more waxes dispersed in an aqueous liquid phase by means of an emulsifying system or conveyed in an organic solvent.
  • wax(es) is known to provide a good texture capable of charging the eyelashes to give them a volume effect, but has the drawback of reducing the colour intensity of the composition. Moreover, reducing the amount of waxes produces solutions whose colour intensity is high, but the composition thus fluidized gives rise to a makeup that charges sparingly.
  • One aim of the present invention is to obtain a composition for coating keratin fibres, preferably a mascara, which gives a charging effect on the eyelashes while at the same time having good colour intensity, in particular good black intensity, and having good properties in terms of shaping of the curl of the eyelashes while being pleasant to apply.
  • Hard waxes are known to provide a curling effect, but, at high concentration, they are relatively unpleasant to apply since the texture is rigid.
  • An aim of the present patent application is also to propose a stable mascara, which has a texture that is thick enough to obtain a charging deposit, of satisfactory consistency, allowing easy application to the eyelashes and uniform deposition, i.e. smooth and homogeneous, even after two months stored at 4°C.
  • An aim of the present patent application is also to propose a stable mascara, which has a texture that is thick enough to obtain a charging deposit, of satisfactory consistency, allowing easy application to the eyelashes and uniform deposition, i.e. smooth and homogeneous, even after two months stored at 45°C.
  • An aim of the present patent application is more particularly to propose a stable mascara, which has a texture that is thick enough to obtain a charging deposit, of satisfactory consistency, allowing easy application to the eyelashes and uniform deposition, i.e. smooth and homogeneous, even after two months stored at temperatures oscillating between 4°C and 45°C.
  • an aim of the present invention consists in stabilizing a mascara without phase separation over time.
  • An aim of the present patent application is more particularly to propose a mascara in which the pigments are uniformly dispersed.
  • An aim of the present patent application is more particularly to propose a mascara that is pleasant to apply.
  • An aim of the present invention is more particularly to propose a composition for coating keratin fibres that allows good separation of the eyelashes during its application, without formation of bunches of eyelashes, and while ensuring smooth and uniform deposition of material (without lumps of composition).
  • An aim of the present invention is also to obtain a composition for coating keratin fibres, preferably a mascara, which has good staying power on the eyelashes.
  • composition preferably a cosmetic composition, in particular for coating keratin fibres such as the eyelashes, comprising:
  • a lamellar phase ⁇ formed by an aqueous phase-structuring surfactant system, said surfactant system comprising a content of surfactant(s) of greater than or equal to 15% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition,
  • compositions which are especially suitable for coating keratin fibres such as the eyelashes, in particular a mascara composition, which is capable of considerably limiting or even capable of dispensing with the use of waxes.
  • a composition in accordance with the invention gives rise to a composition that is stable even after 2 months whether at 45°C or at 4°C. It appears that such a composition is smooth, glossy and has an intense black colour. Such a composition is also pleasant to apply, comfortable and has a very good playtime. Furthermore, this composition promotes shaping of the curl of the eyelashes, the inventors putting forward the hypothesis that the hydrophilic polymer(s) selected give the composition a desiccating and rigidifying effect.
  • the present invention when combined with a high wax content, for example greater than or equal to 10% by weight, and more surprisingly with a high content of hard wax(es), for example greater than or equal to 10% by weight, the present invention makes it possible to conserve comfort on application and in particular unexpected playtime, allowing more than 20 brushstrokes on the eyelashes without the user sensing any dragging.
  • a subject of the present invention is also an assembly or kit for coating keratin fibres, comprising:
  • said applicator comprising means, where appropriate with reliefs, configured to come into contact with said keratin fibres, such as the eyelashes or the eyebrows, so as to smooth and/or separate the eyelashes or the eyebrows.
  • reliefs may comprise teeth, bristles or the like.
  • Said assembly, and in particular said applicator, may optionally be equipped with means for vibrating and/or heating said composition.
  • a subject of the present invention is also an assembly or kit for packaging and applying a composition for coating keratin fibres, comprising:
  • Said applicator may be integrally attached to a gripping member forming a cap for said packaging device.
  • said applicator may be mounted in a removable position on said device between a closed position and an open position of a dispensing aperture of the device for conditioning said composition.
  • the surfactant system comprises at least one nonionic surfactant; preferably the surfactant system comprises a total content of nonionic surfactant(s) of greater than or equal to 15% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition;
  • the surfactant system comprises a total content of surfactant(s), preferably of nonionic surfactant(s), of greater than or equal to 18% by weight, in particular 20% by weight, for example ranging from 15% to 45% by weight, better still from 18% to 40% by weight and even better still from 20% to 35% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition;
  • the surfactant system comprises:
  • - ALK is a C7-C23, preferably Cn-C 2 i and more preferentially C15-C17 alkyl group,
  • a and b are integers between 0 and 100
  • c is an integer between 1 and 100, in particular between 1 and 3, preferably equal to 1
  • a and b preferably being equal to 0 or 1
  • X is a (poly)oxyalkylene group optionally substituted and/or terminated with a hydroxyl group, X preferably being an oxyethylene group (CH 2 CH 2 0) n or (OCH 2 CH 2 ) n in which n is greater than or equal to 1 , for example between 1 and 200, said (poly)oxyalkylene group preferably being a polyethylene glycol or being the result of at least one substitution of a hydroxyl group, preferably chosen from (poly)glycerols;
  • the group X is preferably chosen from:
  • - ALK which may be identical or different, representing a C1 -C6 and in particular C1 -C4 alkylene group, preferably ethylene,
  • x+y+z is other than 0, x+y+z preferably being inclusively between 1 and 150 and in particular between 20 and 60;
  • - ALK which may be identical or different, representing a C1 -C6 and in particular C1 -C4 ethylene group, preferably ethylene,
  • - x is an integer other than 0 and preferably between 1 and 200.
  • nonionic surfactant(s) with an HLB value at 25°C of less than 8 and the nonionic surfactant(s) with an HLB value at 25°C of greater than or equal to 8 are chosen from:
  • - ALK is a C 8 -C 2 4, preferably C12-C22 and more preferentially Ci 6 -Ci 8 alkyl group,
  • n being an integer other than 0, between 1 and 200, preferably between 1 and 10 and better still between 2 and 6 for the nonionic surfactant(s) with an HLB value at 25°C of less than 8, preferably between 20 and 200 for the nonionic surfactant(s) with an HLB value at 25°C of greater than or equal to 8;
  • - ALK is a C7-C23, preferably Cn-C 2 i and more preferentially C15-C17 alkyl group,
  • a and b are integers between 0 and 100
  • c is an integer between 1 and 100, in particular between 1 and 3, preferably equal to 1
  • a and b preferably being equal to 0 or 1
  • Gly is a glycerol group, optionally substituted and/or terminated with a hydroxyl group, in particular in which at least one of the -OH functions, and preferentially only one -OH function, is substituted with the group (ALK-[C(0)] a -[0]b) c , preferentially ALK-(CO)-0,
  • - d is an integer between 1 and 20, preferably between 1 and 12, preferably being between 1 and 2 for the nonionic surfactant(s) with an HLB value at 25°C of less than 8, and between 4 and 20 for the nonionic surfactant(s) with an HLB value at 25°C of greater than or equal to 8;
  • the at least one from among the nonionic surfactant(s) with an HLB value at 25°C of less than 8 is chosen from:
  • esters of fatty acids especially of C 8 -C 2 4 and preferably of Ci 6 -C 2 2, and of (poly)oxyalkylenated polyol, especially of (poly)oxyalkylenated glycerol or of oxyalkylenated sorbitol, preferably of (poly)oxyalkylenated glycerol;
  • esters of fatty acids especially of C 8 -C 2 4 and preferably of Ci 6 -C 2 2, and of (poly)glycerol, preferentially comprising one or two glycerol groups;
  • the at least one from among the nonionic surfactant(s) with an HLB value at 25°C of less than 8 comprises a (poly)oxyalkylenated alcohol comprising an ether of a C 8 -C 2 4 fatty alcohol and of polyethylene glycol, said ether comprising from 1 to 10 and better still between 2 and 6 ethylene glycol units;
  • nonionic surfactant(s) with an HLB value at 25°C of greater than or equal to 8, preferably greater than or equal to 10 are chosen from:
  • esters of a fatty acid and of (poly)oxyalkylenated polyethylene glycol are esters of a fatty acid and of (poly)oxyalkylenated polyethylene glycol
  • esters of a fatty acid and of (poly)oxyalkylenated glycerol ethers
  • esters of fatty acids especially of C 8 -C 2 4 and preferably of Ci 6 -C 22 , and of polyglycerol, preferentially comprising from 4 to 20 glycerol groups;
  • esters of a fatty acid and of (poly)oxyalkylenated sorbitol ethers
  • the at least one from among the nonionic surfactant(s) with an HLB value at 25°C of greater than or equal to 8 comprises a (poly)oxyalkylenated alcohol comprising at least one ether of a C 8 -C 2 4 fatty alcohol and of polyethylene glycol, said ether comprising at least 20 ethylene glycol units and better still between 20 and 200 ethylene glycol units;
  • nonionic surfactant(s) with an HLB value at 25°C of less than 8, preferably corresponding to formula (I), are present in a content of greater than or equal to 7% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably between 8% and 25% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition;
  • the nonionic surfactant(s) with an HLB value at 25°C of greater than or equal to 8, preferably greater than or equal to 10, preferably corresponding to formula (I), are present in a content of greater than or equal to 7% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably between 8% and 25% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition;
  • the nonionic surfactant(s) with an HLB value at 25°C of less than 8 and the nonionic surfactant(s) with an HLB value at 25°C of greater than or equal to 8, preferably both corresponding to formula (I), are present in a total content of greater than or equal to 15%, better still 18%, in particular between 15% and 45%, better still from 18% to 40% by weight and even better still from 20% to 35% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition;
  • the nonionic surfactant(s) with an HLB value at 25°C of less than 8 and the nonionic surfactant(s) with an HLB value at 25°C of greater than or equal to 8, both preferably corresponding to formula (I), are present in a respective total content such that the weight ratio of the nonionic surfactant(s) with an HLB value at 25°C of less than 8 to the nonionic surfactant(s) with an HLB value at 25°C of greater than or equal to 8 ranges from 1/5 to 5, preferably from 1/3 to 3, preferably from 2/3 to 3/2;
  • composition comprises a solids content of greater than or equal to 40%, better still 42%, preferentially 45%, more preferentially 48%, or even 50%;
  • the aqueous phase represents from 30% to 80% by weight and preferably from 40% to 70% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition;
  • the (poly)urethane hydrophilic polymer(s) are chosen from linear polymers, branched polymers, and a mixture thereof, preferably from linear polymers;
  • the (poly)urethane hydrophilic polymer(s) are chosen from non-crosslinked polymers, preferably chosen from non-crosslinked linear polymers; - the (poly)urethane hydrophilic polymer(s) are chosen from statistical polymers, block copolymers, and a mixture thereof;
  • the (poly)urethane hydrophilic polymer(s) are present in a total content of (poly)urethane hydrophilic polymer solids of greater than or equal to 0.1 % by weight, better still 0.5% by weight, even better still 1 % by weight, preferably 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably ranging from 0.1 % to 20% by weight, better still from 0.5% to 15%, even better still from 1 % to 10% by weight, preferably from 1 .5% to 8% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition;
  • the (poly)urethane hydrophilic polymer(s) are present in a content greater than or equal to 0.01 % by weight of solids relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably in a content ranging from 0.2% to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition;
  • the (poly)urethane hydrophilic polymer(s) have a weight-average molecular mass Mw ranging from 5000 to 500 000 g/mol, preferably from 10 000 to 150 000 and more preferably from 20 000 to 100 000 g/mol;
  • the (poly)urethane hydrophilic polymer(s) are chosen from (poly)urethane copolymers, preferably chosen from groups formed from (poly)urethane polyethers, in particular nonionic, optionally hydrophobic-treated;
  • the (poly)urethane hydrophilic polymer(s) are chosen from hydrophobic- modified nonionic polyurethane polymers chosen from the group formed by the polyurethane polyethers that may be obtained, or that are obtained, by polycondensation of at least three compounds comprising:
  • At least one polyethylene glycol comprising from 50 to 500 mol of ethylene oxide, for example from 100 to 200 mol of ethylene oxide,
  • At least one diisocyanate for example methylenebis(4-cyclohexyl isocyanate) or hexamethylene diisocyanate,
  • the (poly)urethane hydrophilic polymer(s) are chosen from the hydrophobic-modified nonionic polyurethane polymers chosen from the group formed by:
  • polyurethane polyethers that may be obtained, or that are obtained, by polycondensation of at least three compounds comprising: (i) at least one polyethylene glycol comprising from 50 to 500 mol of ethylene oxide, for example from 100 to 200 mol of ethylene oxide,
  • polyurethane polyethers that may be obtained, or that are obtained, by polycondensation of at least three compounds comprising:
  • At least one polyethylene glycol comprising from 50 to 500 mol of ethylene oxide, for example from 100 to 200 mol of ethylene oxide,
  • composition comprises from 0 to 25% of fatty phase relative to the total weight of the composition and more preferentially from 1 % to 15% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition;
  • the composition comprises from 0 to 25% by weight of wax(es), in particular from 0.5% to 15% or even from 1 % to 8% by weight of wax(es);
  • the composition comprises a content of wax(es) of less than 5% by weight, in particular 3% by weight and preferentially 1 % by weight relative to the total weight of the composition;
  • composition comprises at least one wax chosen from the group consisting of polar waxes and apolar waxes, and a mixture thereof;
  • composition comprises at least one polar wax
  • the composition comprises at least one hard wax, which is preferably polar; - the composition comprises less than 5% by weight of wax(es), preferably hard wax(es), which are preferably polar, and at least 3% by weight of (poly)urethane hydrophilic polymer(s), relative to the total weight of the composition; more particularly, the composition comprises less than 3% by weight of wax(es), preferably hard wax(es), which are preferably polar, and at least 5% by weight of (poly)urethane hydrophilic polymer(s), relative to the total weight of the composition, and even more particularly the composition comprises less than 1 % by weight of wax(es), preferably hard wax(es), which are preferably polar, and at least 8% by weight of (poly)urethane hydrophilic polymer(s), relative to the total weight of the composition;
  • the composition comprises at least 10% by weight of wax(es), preferably hard wax(es), which are preferably polar, and at least 1 % by weight of (poly)urethane hydrophilic polymer(s), relative to the total weight of the composition; in particular, the composition comprises at least of 12% by weight of hard wax(es), which are preferably polar, and at least 1 % by weight of (poly)urethane hydrophilic polymer(s), relative to the total weight of the composition, and more particularly the composition comprises at least 15% by weight of hard wax(es), which are preferably polar, and at least 1 % by weight of (poly)urethane hydrophilic polymer(s), relative to the total weight of the composition;
  • composition is free of oil or organic solvent
  • composition comprises at least one film-forming polymer present in the form of particles in dispersion, for example in aqueous dispersion;
  • the total content of film-forming polymer particles present in aqueous dispersion form ranges from 0 to 20% by weight and preferably from 0 to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition;
  • composition comprises at least one dyestuff chosen from one or more pulverulent substance(s), preferably metal oxides, and in particular iron oxides;
  • the metal oxide(s) are preferably present in a content of greater than or equal to 2% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, and advantageously inclusively between 3% and 22% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition;
  • composition has a viscosity at 25°C ranging from 5 to 50 Pa.s, in particular measured using a Rheomat RM100® machine;
  • composition may be a makeup composition, a makeup base or "base coat”, or a "top coat” composition to be applied onto a makeup.
  • (poly)oxyalkylene or "(poly)oxyalkylenated” means that one or more - OH functions, in particular derived from a hydroxyl function or a carboxylic function, may be substituted with an oxyalkylene group, in particular an oxyethylene group.
  • acyl means a linear or branched saturated C 8 -C 2 4, better still C12-C2 0 and more preferentially C14-C18 hydrocarbon-based chain comprising a carboxylic function whose hydroxyl function (-OH) has been substituted.
  • alky group is a linear or branched, preferably linear, C7-C23, preferably Cn- C21 and more preferentially C15-C17 hydrocarbon-based group or chain.
  • hydrocarbon-based chain is optionally “(poly)unsaturated” when it comprises one or more double bonds and/or one or more triple bonds, which may be conjugated or non-conjugated; preferably, this hydrocarbon-based chain is saturated.
  • composition according to the invention comprises an aqueous phase, which may form a continuous phase of the composition.
  • the aqueous phase comprises water. It may also comprise at least one water-soluble solvent.
  • water-soluble solvent denotes a compound that is liquid at room temperature and water-miscible.
  • the water-soluble solvents that may be used in the compositions according to the invention may also be volatile.
  • the aqueous phase (water and optionally the water-miscible solvent) is generally present in the composition according to the present patent application in a content ranging from 30% to 80% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, and preferably ranging from 40% to 70% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • This aqueous phase content includes not only the water originating from the aqueous dispersions of film-forming polymers, and, where appropriate, aqueous dispersions of hard waxes, in accordance with the invention, but also, where appropriate, the water deliberately added to the composition.
  • composition according to the invention advantageously comprises a solids content of greater than or equal to 40%, better still 42%, in particular 45%, or even 48%, and preferentially 50%.
  • solids content denotes the content of non-volatile matter.
  • the solids content (abbreviated as SC) of a composition according to the invention is measured using a "Halogen Moisture Analyzer HR 73" commercial halogen desiccator from Mettler Toledo. The measurement is performed on the basis of the weight loss of a sample dried by halogen heating, and thus represents the percentage of residual matter once the water and the volatile matter have evaporated off.
  • the measuring protocol is as follows:
  • sample Approximately 2 g of the composition, referred to hereinbelow as the sample, are spread out on a metal crucible, which is placed in the halogen desiccator mentioned above. The sample is then subjected to a temperature of 105°C until a constant weight is obtained. The wet mass of the sample, corresponding to its initial mass, and the dry mass of the sample, corresponding to its mass after halogen heating, are measured using a precision balance.
  • the experimental error associated with the measurement is of the order of plus or minus 2%.
  • the solids content is calculated in the following manner:
  • a composition in accordance with the invention comprises a surfactant system forming a lamellar phase ⁇ _ ⁇ in the aqueous phase.
  • This surfactant system structuring the aqueous phase in a lamellar phase ⁇ _ ⁇ comprises a content of surfactant(s), preferably nonionic surfactant(s), of greater than or equal to 15% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the surfactant system advantageously comprises a total content of surfactant(s), preferably of nonionic surfactant(s), of greater than or equal to 15% by weight, in particular 18% by weight, more particularly ranging from 15% to 45% by weight, better still from 18% to 40% by weight and even better still from 20% to 35% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • a composition according to the invention comprises a surfactant system comprising:
  • - ALK is a C7-C23, preferably Cn-C 2 i and more preferentially C15-C17 alkyl group,
  • a and b are integers between 0 and 100
  • c is an integer between 1 and 100, in particular between 1 and 3, preferably equal to 1
  • a and b preferably being equal to 0 or 1
  • X is a (poly)oxyalkylene group optionally substituted and/or terminated with a hydroxyl group, X preferably being an oxyethylene group (CH 2 CH 2 0) n or (OCH 2 CH 2 ) n in which n is greater than or equal to 1 , for example between 1 and 200, said (poly)oxyalkylene group preferably being a polyethylene glycol or being the result of at least one substitution of a hydroxyl group, preferably chosen from (poly)glycerols.
  • ALK-[C(0)] a -[0] b generally means that the alkyl group ALK may be derived from a fatty acid or from a fatty alcohol.
  • the compounds of formula (I) preferably result from an esterification, more preferentially from a mono esterification, or from an etherification (or alkoxylation), more preferentially a mono-etherification (or mono-alkoxylation).
  • the group X is preferably chosen from:
  • - ALK which may be identical or different, representing a C1 -C6 and in particular C1-C4 alkylene group, preferably ethylene,
  • x+y+z is other than 0, x+y+z preferably being inclusively between 1 and 150 and in particular between 20 and 60;
  • - ALK which may be identical or different, representing a C1-C6 and in particular C1-C4 ethylene group, preferably ethylene,
  • - x is an integer other than 0 and preferably between 1 and 200.
  • the nonionic surfactant(s) with an HLB value at 25°C of less than 8 and the nonionic surfactant(s) with an HLB value at 25°C of greater than or equal to 8 are chosen from:
  • - ALK is a C 8 -C 2 4, preferably C12-C22 and more preferentially Ci 6 -Ci 8 alkyl group,
  • n being an integer other than 0, between 1 and 200, preferably between 1 and 10 and better still between 2 and 6 for the nonionic surfactant(s) with an HLB value at 25°C of less than 8, preferably between 20 and 200 for the nonionic surfactant(s) with an HLB value at 25°C of greater than or equal to 8;
  • - ALK is a C7-C23, preferably Cn-C 2 i and more preferentially C15-C17 alkyl group,
  • - a and b are integers between 0 and 100
  • c is an integer between 1 and 100, in particular between 1 and 3, preferably equal to 1
  • a and b preferably being equal to 0 or 1
  • Gly is a glycerol group, optionally substituted and/or terminated with a hydroxyl group, in particular in which at least one of the -OH functions, and preferentially only one -OH function, is substituted with the group (ALK-[C(0)] a -[0]b) c , preferentially ALK-(CO)-0,
  • d is an integer between 1 and 20, preferably between 1 and 12, preferably being between 1 and 2 for the nonionic surfactant(s) with an HLB value at 25°C of less than 8, and between 4 and 20 for the nonionic surfactant(s) with an HLB value at 25°C of greater than or equal to 8;
  • the nonionic surfactant(s) with an HLB value, in the Griffin sense, at 25°C, of greater than or equal to 8 may be advantageously chosen from:
  • - (poly)oxyalkylenated glycerol ethers in particular oxyethylenated and/or oxypropylenated glycerol ethers, which may comprise from 20 to 200 oxyethylene and/or oxypropylene units;
  • - (poly)oxyalkylenated alcohols in particular oxyethylenated and/or oxypropylenated alcohols, which may comprise from 20 to 200 oxyethylene and/or oxypropylene units, preferably from 20 to 100 oxyethylene units, in particular ethoxylated fatty alcohols, especially C 8 -C 2 4 and preferably Ci 2 -Ci 8 fatty alcohols, such as ethoxylated stearyl alcohol comprising 20 oxyethylene units (CTFA name: Steareth-20) such as Brij 78 sold by the company Uniqema, or ethoxylated cetearyl alcohol comprising 30 oxyethylene units (CTFA name: Ceteareth-30);
  • esters of a fatty acid especially of a C 8 -C 2 4 and preferably Ci 6 -C 2 2 fatty acid, and of polyethylene glycol (or
  • PEG (which may comprise from 20 to 200 oxyethylene units), such as PEG-50 stearate and PEG-40 monostearate sold under the name Myrj 52P® by the company Uniqema;
  • esters of a fatty acid especially a C 8 -C 2 4 and preferably Ci 6 -C 2 2 fatty acid
  • (poly)oxyalkylenated glycerol ethers which are in particular oxyethylenated and/or oxypropylenated (which may comprise from 20 to 200 oxyethylene and/or oxypropylene units), for instance glyceryl monostearate polyoxyethylenated with 200 oxyethylene units, sold under the name Simulsol 220 TM® by the company SEPPIC; glyceryl stearate polyoxyethylenated with 30 oxyethylene units, for instance the product Tagat S® sold by the company Goldschmidt, glyceryl oleate polyoxyethylenated with 30 oxyethylene units, for instance the product Tagat O® sold by the company Goldschmidt, glyceryl cocoate polyoxyethylenated with 30 oxyethylene units, for instance the product Varionic LI
  • esters of a fatty acid especially of C 8 -C 2 4 and preferably of Ci 6 -C 2 2, and of a polyglycerol, preferentially comprising from 4 to 20 glycerol groups;
  • esters of a fatty acid especially a C 8 -C 2 4 and preferably Ci 6 -C 22 fatty acid
  • (poly)oxyalkylenated sorbitol ethers which are in particular oxyethylenated and/or oxypropylenated (which may comprise from 20 to 200 oxyethylene and/or oxypropylene units), for instance the polysorbate 60 sold under the name Tween 60® by the company Uniqema;
  • fatty acid should preferentially be understood as meaning a fatty monoacid.
  • a composition comprises at least one nonionic surfactant with an HLB value, in the Griffin sense, at 25°C, of greater than or equal to 8, preferably greater than or equal to 10 comprise(s) a poly(oxyalkylenated) alcohol comprising at least one ether of a C 8 -C 2 4 fatty alcohol and of polyethylene glycol, said ether comprising at least 20 ethylene glycol units and better still between 20 and 200 ethylene glycol units.
  • a nonionic surfactant(s) with an HLB value, in the Griffin sense, at 25°C, of greater than or equal to 8, is ethoxylated stearyl alcohol comprising 20 oxyethylene units (CTFA name: Steareth-20).
  • a composition according to the invention has a content of nonionic surfactant(s) with an HLB value in the Griffin sense, at 25°C, of greater than or equal to 8, preferably greater than or equal to 10, of greater than or equal to 7% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably between 8% and 25% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the nonionic surfactant(s) with an HLB value, in the Griffin sense, at 25°C, of less than 8 comprise at least one surfactant advantageously chosen from:
  • esters of fatty acids especially of C 8 -C 2 4 and preferably of Ci 6 - C 2 2, and of (poly)oxyalkylenated polyol, especially of (poly)oxyalkylenated glycerol or of
  • esters of fatty acids especially of C 8 -C 2 4 and preferably of Ci 6 - C22, and of (poly)glycerol, preferentially comprising one or two glycerol groups;
  • (poly)oxyalkylenated means from 1 to 10 oxyethylene groups (or units) and better still from 2 to 6 oxyethylene groups.
  • fatty acid should preferentially be understood as meaning a fatty monoacid.
  • the nonionic surfactant(s) with an HLB value at 25°C of less than 8 are preferably chosen from:
  • At least one (poly)oxyalkylenated alcohol comprising an ether of a C 8 -C 2 4 fatty alcohol and of polyethylene glycol, said ether comprising from 1 to 10 and better still between 2 and 6 ethylene glycol units, and
  • fatty acid especially of C12-C2 0 , and of one or two glycerol groups
  • said fatty acid preferably comprising a Ci 2 -C 2 o alkyl chain which may be linear or branched, and saturated or unsaturated, preferably linear and saturated, chosen, for example, from glyceryl stearate, glyceryl laurate, glyceryl myristate, polyglyceryl-2 stearate, polyglyceryl-2 laurate and polyglyceryl-2 myristate, preferably from glyceryl stearate,
  • a composition according to the invention has a content of nonionic surfactant(s) with an HLB value, in the Griffin sense, at 25°C, of less than 8, greater than or equal to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably between 8% and 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • a composition in accordance with the invention is free of anionic surfactant(s).
  • a composition in accordance with the invention is free of amphoteric surfactant(s).
  • the surfactant system may comprise one or more co-surfactants chosen from fatty alcohols comprising from 10 to 26 carbon atoms, better still from 12 to 24 carbon atoms and even better still from 14 to 22 carbon atoms.
  • Lamellar phase LB The surfactant system in accordance with the invention organizes the aqueous phase in the form of a lamellar phase i- ⁇ , or paracrystalline phase ⁇ , or lamellar gel phase.
  • This composition is stable at a room temperature of 25°C, having a viscosity preferentially ranging from 5 to 50 Pa.s, measured at a room temperature of 25 C using a Rheomat RM 100® rheometer.
  • the term "lamellar gel phase or paracrystalline phase ⁇ , ⁇ " means a phase in which the surfactant molecules and/or more generally the molecules of amphiphilic compounds are organized in the form of bimolecular layers spaced apart by aqueous leaflets. Within the bimolecular layers, the molecules are distributed in a hexagonal geometry, their hydrocarbon-based chains are in a crystalline state and are oriented perpendicular to the plane of the bimolecular layers but have no specific orientation relative to each other in the plane of these layers.
  • the paracrystalline phases ⁇ _ ⁇ are metastable phases in which the fatty chains are in solid form and are arranged randomly relative to each other, unlike the micellar, hexagonal, cubic and lamellar fluid paracrystalline phases (La) in which the fatty chains are in liquid form, and unlike the crystalline phases in which the fatty chains are in solid form and oriented in an ordered manner relative to each other.
  • the paracrystalline phases 1_ ⁇ are metastable and, in general, they have a tendency to evolve towards crystallization.
  • the Applicant has found a particular surfactant system that makes it possible to obtain a stable paracrystalline phase ⁇ _ ⁇ , and thus cosmetic compositions for coating keratin fibres, in particular the eyelashes, which are stable and comfortable to apply, having a curling effect, by using a particular system of surfactant type in particular contents.
  • lamellar gel phase or paracrystalline phase 1_ ⁇ of the surfactant system present in the composition of the invention use may be made of various techniques, and especially the technique of x-ray scattering.
  • WAXS Wide-angle X-ray scattering
  • X-ray diagrams were recorded by a Mar345 image plate detector (Maresearch, Norderstedt, Germany), mounted on a FR591 rotary anode X-ray generator (Brijker, Courtaboeuf, France), used at 50 kV and at 50 mA.
  • the beam was defined under vacuum by four motorized carbon-tungsten slits (JJ-Xray, Roskilde, Denmark) positioned in front of the mirror (500 ⁇ ).
  • composition according to the invention comprises at least one (poly)urethane hydrophilic polymer.
  • hydrophilic polymer means a water-soluble or water-dispersible polymer.
  • water-soluble or water-dispersible polymer means a polymer which, when introduced into water at a concentration equal to 1 %, gives a macroscopically homogeneous solution whose light transmittance, at a wavelength equal to 500 nm, through a sample 1 cm thick, is at least 10%.
  • These (poly)urethane hydrophilic polymer(s) may have a film-forming property.
  • film-forming polymer is intended to mean a polymer that is capable, by itself or in the presence of an auxiliary film-forming agent, of forming a macroscopically continuous deposit, and preferably a cohesive deposit, and even better still a deposit of which the cohesion and mechanical properties are such that said deposit can be isolated and manipulated individually, for example when said deposit is prepared by pouring onto a non-stick surface such as a Teflon- coated or silicone-coated surface.
  • a (poly)urethane hydrophilic polymer in accordance with the invention has a weight-average molecular mass Mw ranging from 1500 to 500 000 g/mol, preferably from 10 000 to 150 000, more preferably from 20 000 to 100 000 g/mol.
  • a composition according to the invention comprises a total solids content of (poly)urethane hydrophilic polymer(s) of greater than or equal to 0.1 % by weight, better still 0.5% by weight and even better still 1 % by weight, preferably 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • a composition according to the invention preferably comprises a total solids content of (poly)urethane hydrophilic polymer(s) ranging from 0.1 % to 20% by weight, better still from 0.5% to 15% and even better still from 1 % to 10% by weight, preferably from 1.5% to 8% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the (poly)urethane hydrophilic polymer(s) in accordance with the invention are chosen from linear polymers, branched polymers, and a mixture thereof, preferably linear polymers.
  • the (poly)urethane hydrophilic polymer(s) in accordance with the invention are chosen from non-crosslinked polymers, preferably linear, non-crosslinked polymers.
  • the (poly)urethane hydrophilic polymer(s) in accordance with the invention are chosen from statistical polymers, block copolymers, and a mixture thereof.
  • block copolymer means a polymer comprising at least two different blocks and preferably at least three different blocks.
  • the (poly)urethane hydrophilic polymer(s) are chosen from (poly)urethane copolymers, for example chosen from the groups formed from (poly)urethane polyethers, which are preferably nonionic, preferably hydrophobic-treated.
  • polyurethane polyethers examples include hydrophobic-modified nonionic polyurethane polyether copolymers.
  • hydrophobic-modified nonionic polyurethane polyether copolymers examples include hydrophobic-modified nonionic polyurethane polyether copolymers.
  • the (poly)urethane hydrophilic polymer(s) are chosen from hydrophobic- modified nonionic polyurethane polymers chosen from the group formed by the polyurethane polyethers that may be obtained, or that are obtained, by polycondensation of at least three compounds comprising:
  • At least one polyethylene glycol comprising from 50 to 500 mol of ethylene oxide, for example from 100 to 200 mol of ethylene oxide,
  • At least one diisocyanate for example methylenebis(4-cyclohexyl isocyanate) or hexamethylene diisocyanate,
  • the (poly)urethane hydrophilic polymer(s) are chosen from hydrophobic- modified nonionic polyurethane polymers chosen from the group formed by:
  • polyurethane polyethers that may be obtained, or that are obtained, by polycondensation of at least three compounds comprising:
  • At least one polyethylene glycol comprising from 50 to 500 mol of ethylene oxide, for example from 100 to 200 mol of ethylene oxide,
  • polyurethane polyethers that may be obtained, or that are obtained, by polycondensation of at least three compounds comprising:
  • At least one polyethylene glycol comprising from 50 to 500 mol of ethylene oxide, for example from 100 to 200 mol of ethylene oxide,
  • PEG-150/decyl alcohol/SMDI Copolymer which is a polycondensate comprising at least, as elements, one polyethylene glycol containing 150 or 180 mol of ethylene oxide, decyl alcohol and methylenebis(4-cyclohexyl isocyanate) (SMDI), at 35% by weight in a mixture of propylene glycol (39%) and water (26%),
  • a composition according to the invention may comprise at least one wax. More precisely, a composition according to the invention advantageously comprises from 0 to 25% by weight of wax(es), in particular from 1 % to 15% by weight of wax(es), for example from 1 % to 8% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • a composition according to the invention may comprise a content of wax(es) of less than 8% by weight, in particular less than 3% by weight and better still less than 1 % by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the wax(es) are generally a lipophilic compound that is solid at room temperature (25°C), with a solid/liquid reversible change of state, having a melting point of greater than or equal to 30°C, which may be up to 200°C and especially up to 120°C.
  • the melting point corresponds to the temperature of the most endothermic peak observed on thermal analysis (DSC) as described in standard ISO 1 1357-3; 1999.
  • the melting point of the wax may be measured using a differential scanning calorimeter (DSC), for example the calorimeter sold under the name DSC Q2000 by the company TA Instruments.
  • DSC differential scanning calorimeter
  • the waxes have a heat of fusion AHf of greater than or equal to
  • the waxes comprise at least one crystallizable part, which is visible by X-ray observation.
  • the measurement protocol is as follows:
  • a 5 mg sample of wax placed in a crucible is subjected to a first temperature increase from -20°C to 120°C, at a heating rate of 10°C/minute, and then is cooled from 120°C to -20°C at a cooling rate of 10°C/minute and finally subjected to a second temperature increase from -20°C to 120°C at a heating rate of 5°C/minute.
  • a first temperature increase from -20°C to 120°C, at a heating rate of 10°C/minute, and then is cooled from 120°C to -20°C at a cooling rate of 10°C/minute and finally subjected to a second temperature increase from -20°C to 120°C at a heating rate of 5°C/minute.
  • a second temperature increase the following parameters are measured:
  • the wax(es) may be hydrocarbon-based waxes, fluoro waxes and/or silicone waxes and may be of plant, mineral, animal and/or synthetic origin.
  • a composition in accordance with the invention may comprise at least one hard wax chosen from the group consisting of polar waxes and apolar waxes, and a mixture thereof.
  • a composition in accordance with the invention may comprise at least one wax chosen from the group consisting of polar waxes and apolar waxes, and a mixture thereof.
  • a composition in accordance with the invention advantageously comprises at least one hard polar wax.
  • a composition according to the invention comprises less than 5% by weight of hard wax(es), which are preferably polar, and at least 3% by weight of (poly)urethane hydrophilic polymer(s) relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • a composition according to the invention comprises at least 10% by weight of hard wax(es), which are preferably polar, and at least 1 % by weight of (poly)urethane hydrophilic polymer(s) relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the composition advantageously comprises at least one hard wax.
  • hard wax means a wax with a melting point ranging from 65 to 120°C, more preferentially between 70 and
  • the term "hard” wax means a wax having, at 20°C, a hardness of greater than 5 MPa, especially ranging from 5 to 30 MPa, preferably greater than 6 MPa and better still ranging from 6 to 25 MPa.
  • the wax is melted at a temperature equal to the melting point of the wax +20°C. To do this, 30 g of wax are placed in a 100 ml beaker 50 mm in diameter, which is itself placed on a magnetic-stirring hotplate.
  • the mechanical properties of the wax or of the mixture of waxes are determined in a room thermostatically maintained at 20°C, using a texturometer sold under the name TA-XT2i by the company Swantech, equipped with a stainless-steel cylinder 2 mm in diameter.
  • the measurement comprises three steps: a first step after automatic detection of the surface of the sample, where the spindle moves at a measuring speed of 0.1 mm/s, and penetrates into the wax to a penetration depth of 0.3 mm, the software notes the maximum force value reached; a second “relaxation” step where the spindle remains at this position for one second and the force is noted after 1 second of relaxation; finally, a third “withdrawal” step in which the spindle returns to its initial position at a speed of 1 mm/s, and the probe withdrawal energy (negative force) is noted.
  • the hardness value corresponds to the maximum measured compression force in newtons divided by the area of the texturometer cylinder, expressed in mm 2 , in contact with the wax.
  • the hardness value obtained is expressed in megapascals or MPa.
  • hard wax examples include carnauba wax, candelilla wax, the wax Bis-PEG-12 Dimethicone Candelillate, for instance Siliconyl Candelilla Wax sold by the company Koster Keunen, hydrogenated jojoba wax, for instance the product sold by the company Desert Whale, hydrogenated palm oil such as the product sold by the company SIO, rice bran wax, sumach wax, ceresin waxes, laurel wax, Chinese insect wax, shellac wax, hydrogenated olive oil such as Waxolive from the company Soliance, the waxes obtained by hydrogenation of olive oil esterified with C12 to C18 fatty-chain alcohols, such as the products sold by the company Sophim under the trade names Phytowax Olive 12L44, 14L48, 16L55 and 18L57, the waxes obtained by hydrogenation of castor oil esterified with cetyl or behenyl alcohol, for instance the products sold under the names Phytowax Ricin 16L64 and
  • Use is preferably made of waxes of plant origin such as carnauba wax, candelilla wax, hydrogenated jojoba wax, sumach wax, the waxes obtained by hydrogenation of olive oil esterified with C12 to C18 fatty-chain alcohols sold by the company Sophim under the name Phytowax (12L44, 14L48, 16L55 and 18L57), rice bran wax, stearyl and behenyl alcohols, laurel wax or ouricury wax.
  • waxes of plant origin such as carnauba wax, candelilla wax, hydrogenated jojoba wax, sumach wax, the waxes obtained by hydrogenation of olive oil esterified with C12 to C18 fatty-chain alcohols sold by the company Sophim under the name Phytowax (12L44, 14L48, 16L55 and 18L57), rice bran wax, stearyl and behenyl alcohols, laurel wax or ouricury wax.
  • the hard wax(es) are preferably polar.
  • the composition according to the invention may comprise at least one polar wax.
  • polar wax means a wax whose solubility parameter at 25°C, ⁇ 3 , is other than 0 (J/cm 3 ) 1 ⁇ 2 .
  • polar wax means a wax whose chemical structure is formed essentially from, or even constituted of, carbon and hydrogen atoms, and comprising at least one highly electronegative heteroatom such as an oxygen, nitrogen, silicon or phosphorus atom.
  • the parameters ⁇ ⁇ , 8 h , 5 D and 8 a are expressed in (J/cm 3 ) 1 ⁇ 2 .
  • the polar waxes may especially be hydrocarbon-based, fluoro or silicone waxes.
  • silicon wax means an oil comprising at least one silicon atom, especially comprising Si-0 groups.
  • hydrocarbon-based wax is intended to mean a wax formed essentially from, or even constituted of, carbon and hydrogen atoms, and optionally oxygen and nitrogen atoms, and that does not contain any silicon or fluorine atoms. It may contain alcohol, ester, ether, carboxylic acid, amine and/or amide groups.
  • the polar wax is a hydrocarbon- based wax.
  • a wax chosen from ester waxes and alcohol waxes is in particular preferred.
  • ester wax is understood according to the invention to mean a wax comprising at least one ester function.
  • alcohol wax is understood according to the invention to mean a wax comprising at least one alcohol function, i.e. comprising at least one free hydroxyl (OH) group.
  • ester wax of those chosen from: i) Waxes of formula RiCOOR 2 in which R-i and R 2 represent linear, branched or cyclic aliphatic chains, the number of atoms of which varies from 10 to 50, which may contain a heteroatom such as O, N or P and the melting point of which varies from 25°C to 120°C.
  • ester wax of a C 2 o-C 4 o alkyl (hydroxystearyloxy)stearate (the alkyl group comprising from 20 to 40 carbon atoms), alone or as a mixture, or a C 2 o-C 40 alkyl stearate.
  • Such waxes are especially sold under the names Kester Wax K 82 P ® , Hydroxypolyester K 82 P ® , Kester Wax K 80 P ® and Kester Wax K82H by the company Koster Keunen.
  • Use may also be made of a glycol and butylene glycol montanate (octacosanoate) such as the wax Licowax KPS Flakes (INCI name: glycol montanate) sold by the company Clariant.
  • octacosanoate such as the wax Licowax KPS Flakes (INCI name: glycol montanate) sold by the company Clariant.
  • Bis(1 ,1 ,1 -trimethylolpropane) tetrastearate sold under the name Hest 2T-4S ® by the company Heterene
  • Such waxes are described in patent application FR-A-2 792 190 and the waxes obtained by hydrogenation of olive oil esterified with stearyl alcohol such as the product sold under the name Phytowax Olive 18 L 57, or alternatively; v) Beeswax, synthetic beeswax, polyglycerolated beeswax, carnauba wax, candelilla wax, oxypropylenated lanolin wax, rice bran wax, ouricury wax, esparto grass wax, cork fibre wax, sugar cane wax, Japan wax, sumach wax; montan wax, orange wax, laurel wax and hydrogenated jojoba wax.
  • the polar wax may be an alcohol wax.
  • alcohol wax means a wax comprising at least one alcohol function, i.e. comprising at least one free hydroxyl (OH) group.
  • Alcohol waxes that may be mentioned include for example the wax Performacol 550-L Alcohol from New Phase Technologies, stearyl alcohol and cetyl alcohol.
  • the polar wax may be a silicone wax such as siliconized beeswax, or an alkyl dimethicone such as the C30-C45 alkyl dimethicone sold under the reference SF1642 by Momentive Performance Materials.
  • the composition according to the invention comprises a content of polar wax, in particular a hard polar wax, and especially a polar hydrocarbon-based wax, ranging from 1 % to 25% by weight of wax relative to the total weight of the composition, better still from 1 % to 8% by weight and in particular from 1 % to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • polar wax in particular a hard polar wax
  • polar hydrocarbon-based wax ranging from 1 % to 25% by weight of wax relative to the total weight of the composition, better still from 1 % to 8% by weight and in particular from 1 % to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • composition according to the invention may comprise at least one apolar wax.
  • apolar wax means a wax whose solubility parameter at 25°C as defined below, ⁇ 3 , is equal to 0 (J/cm 3 ) 1 ⁇ 2 .
  • Apolar waxes are in particular hydrocarbon-based waxes constituted solely of carbon and hydrogen atoms, and free of heteroatoms such as N, O, Si and P.
  • apolar wax is understood to mean a wax that is constituted solely of apolar wax, rather than a mixture also comprising other types of waxes that are not apolar waxes.
  • hydrocarbon-based waxes for instance microcrystalline waxes, paraffin waxes, ozokerite, polyethylene waxes, and a mixture thereof.
  • Polyethylene waxes that may be mentioned include Performalene 500-L Polyethylene and Performalene 400 Polyethylene sold by New Phase Technologies.
  • Ozokerite Wax SP 1020 P An ozokerite that may be mentioned is Ozokerite Wax SP 1020 P.
  • microcrystalline waxes that may be used, mention may be made of Multiwax W 445 ® sold by the company Sonneborn, and Microwax HW ® and Base Wax 30540 ® sold by the company Paramelt.
  • microwaxes that may be used in the compositions according to the invention as apolar wax, mention may be made especially of polyethylene microwaxes such as those sold under the names Micropoly 200 ® , 220 ® , 220L ® and 250S ® by the company Micro Powders.
  • compositions in accordance with the invention comprise at least one dyestuff.
  • This (or these) dyestuffs are preferably chosen from pulverulent substances, liposoluble dyes and water-soluble dyes, and mixtures thereof.
  • compositions according to the invention comprise at least one pulverulent dyestuff.
  • the pulverulent dyestuffs may be chosen from pigments and nacres, and preferably from pigments.
  • the pigments may be white or coloured, mineral and/or organic, and coated or uncoated.
  • mineral pigments mention may be made of metal oxides, in particular titanium dioxide, optionally surface-treated, zirconium, zinc or cerium oxide, and also iron, titanium or chromium oxide, manganese violet, ultramarine blue, chromium hydrate and ferric blue.
  • organic pigments that may be mentioned are carbon black, pigments of D&C type and lakes based on cochineal carmine or on barium, strontium, calcium or aluminium.
  • the nacres may be chosen from white nacreous pigments such as mica coated with titanium or with bismuth oxychloride, coloured nacreous pigments such as titanium mica with iron oxides, titanium mica in particular with ferric blue or chromium oxide, titanium mica with an organic pigment of the abovementioned type, and also nacreous pigments based on bismuth oxychloride.
  • white nacreous pigments such as mica coated with titanium or with bismuth oxychloride
  • coloured nacreous pigments such as titanium mica with iron oxides, titanium mica in particular with ferric blue or chromium oxide, titanium mica with an organic pigment of the abovementioned type, and also nacreous pigments based on bismuth oxychloride.
  • the liposoluble dyes are, for example, Sudan Red, D&C Red 17, D&C Green
  • the pigments contained in the compositions according to the invention are chosen from metal oxides.
  • dyestuffs may be present in a content ranging from 0.01 % to 30% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition and in particular from 3% to 22% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the dyestuff(s) are chosen from one or more metal oxides that are present in a content of greater than or equal to 2% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, and advantageously inclusively between 3% and 22% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • compositions in accordance with the invention may also comprise at least one filler.
  • the fillers may be selected from those that are well known to those skilled in the art and commonly used in cosmetic compositions.
  • the fillers may be mineral or organic, and lamellar or spherical. Mention may be made of talc, mica, silica, kaolin, polyamide powders, for instance the Nylon ® sold under the name Orgasol ® by the company Atochem, poly-p-alanine powders and polyethylene powders, powders of tetrafluoroethylene polymers, for instance Teflon ® , lauroyllysine, starch, boron nitride, expanded polymeric hollow microspheres such as those of polyvinylidene chloride/acrylonitrile, for instance the products sold under the name Expancel ® by the company Nobel Industrie, acrylic powders such as those sold under the name Polytrap ® by the company Dow Corning, polymethyl methacrylate particles and silicone resin microbeads (for example Tospearls ® from Toshiba), precipitated
  • the fillers may represent from 0.1 % to 15% by weight and in particular from 0.5% to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • compositions in accordance with the invention may also comprise at least one cosmetic active agent.
  • cosmetic active agents that may be used in the compositions in accordance with the invention, mention may be made especially of antioxidants, preserving agents, fragrances, neutralizers, emollients, coalescers, moisturizers, vitamins and screening agents, in particular sunscreens, and mixtures thereof.
  • the composition according to the invention is a leave-on composition.
  • the composition is a makeup composition and in particular a mascara.
  • compositions according to the invention may comprise at least one oil or organic solvent.
  • compositions according to the invention may in particular comprise at least one oil chosen from at least one non-volatile oil, at least one volatile oil, and a mixture thereof.
  • oil means a fatty substance that is liquid at room temperature and at atmospheric pressure.
  • non-volatile oil means an oil that remains on the skin or the keratin fibre at room temperature and pressure. More precisely, a non-volatile oil has an evaporation rate strictly less than 0.01 mg/cm 2 /min. To measure this evaporation rate, 15 g of oil or of oil mixture to be tested are placed in a crystallizing dish 7 cm in diameter, which is placed on a balance in a large chamber of about 0.3 m 3 that is temperature-regulated, at a temperature of 25°C, and hygrometry-regulated, at a relative humidity of 50%.
  • the liquid is allowed to evaporate freely, without stirring it, while providing ventilation by means of a fan (Papst-Motoren, reference 8550 N, rotating at 2700 rpm) placed in a vertical position above the crystallizing dish containing said oil or said mixture, the blades being directed towards the crystallizing dish, 20 cm away from the bottom of the crystallizing dish.
  • the mass of oil remaining in the crystallizing dish is measured at regular intervals.
  • the evaporation rates are expressed in mg of oil evaporated per unit of area (cm 2 ) and per unit of time (minutes).
  • Said at least one non-volatile oil may be chosen from hydrocarbon-based oils and silicone oils, and mixtures thereof, preferably from hydrocarbon-based oils.
  • non-volatile hydrocarbon-based oils that are suitable for the present invention may be chosen in particular from:
  • oils of plant origin such as triglycerides consisting of fatty acid esters of glycerol, the fatty acids of which may have chain lengths ranging from C4 to C28, these fatty acids possibly being linear or branched, and saturated or unsaturated; these oils are especially wheatgerm oil, sunflower oil, grapeseed oil, sesame seed oil, corn oil, apricot oil, castor oil, shea oil, avocado oil, olive oil, soybean oil, sweet almond oil, rapeseed oil, cottonseed oil, hazelnut oil, macadamia oil, jojoba oil, palm oil, alfalfa oil, poppy oil, pumpkin oil, sesame seed oil, marrow oil, rapeseed oil, blackcurrant oil, evening primrose oil, millet oil, barley oil, quinoa oil, rye oil, safflower oil, candlenut oil, passion flower oil and musk rose oil; or alternatively caprylic/capric acid trigly
  • esters such as oils of formula R1 COOR2 in which R1 represents a linear or branched fatty acid residue containing from 1 to 40 carbon atoms and R2 represents an especially branched hydrocarbon-based chain containing from 1 to 40 carbon atoms, on condition that R1 + R2 ⁇ 10, for instance purcellin oil (cetostearyl octanoate), isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, C12 to C15 alkyl benzoate, hexyl laurate, diisopropyl adipate, isononyl isononanoate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, isostearate isostearate, alkyl or polyalkyl octanoates, decanoates or ricinoleates such as propylene glycol dioctanoate; hydroxylated esters such as isostearate lactate and diisostearyl malate; and pentaerythritol
  • octyldodecanol isostearyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, 2-hexyldecanol, 2-butyloctanol and 2- undecylpentadecanol; and
  • - higher fatty acids such as oleic acid, linoleic acid or linolenic acid, and mixtures thereof.
  • non-volatile silicone oils that are suitable for the present invention may be chosen in particular from:
  • non-volatile silicone oils that may be used in the composition in accordance with the invention may be non-volatile polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMSs), polydimethylsiloxanes comprising alkyl or alkoxy groups, that are pendent and/or at the end of a silicone chain, the groups each containing from 2 to 24 carbon atoms, phenyl silicones, for instance phenyl trimethicones, phenyl dimethicones, phenyltrimethylsiloxydiphenylsiloxanes, diphenyl dimethicones, diphenylmethyldiphenyltrisiloxanes and 2-phenylethyl trimethylsiloxysilicat.es.
  • PDMSs non-volatile polydimethylsiloxanes
  • polydimethylsiloxanes comprising alkyl or alkoxy groups, that are pendent and/or at the end of a silicone chain, the groups each containing from 2 to 24 carbon
  • a composition according to the invention optionally comprises at least one hydrocarbon-based non-volatile oil of plant origin, such as triglycerides consisting of fatty acid esters of glycerol the fatty acids of which may have chain lengths ranging from C4 to C28, in particular palm oil and hydrogenated jojoba oil(s).
  • a composition according to the invention is preferably free of silicone non-volatile oil(s).
  • a composition according to the invention is preferably free of non-volatile oil.
  • the total content of non-volatile oil(s) in a composition in accordance with the invention may range from 0.01 % to 10% by weight, in particular less than 8% by weight and preferably less than 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • a composition according to the invention comprises less than 3% by weight of non-volatile oil(s) relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • composition according to the invention may comprise at least one volatile oil.
  • volatile oil means an oil (or non-aqueous medium) that can evaporate on contact with the skin in less than one hour, at room temperature and atmospheric pressure.
  • the volatile oil is a cosmetic volatile oil, which is liquid at room temperature. More specifically, a volatile oil has an evaporation rate of between 0.01 and 200 mg/cm 2 /min, limits included.
  • This volatile oil may be hydrocarbon-based.
  • the volatile hydrocarbon-based oil may be chosen from hydrocarbon- based oils containing from 7 to 16 carbon atoms.
  • composition according to the invention may contain one or more volatile branched alkanes.
  • volatile branched alkanes means, without preference, “one or more volatile branched alkane oils”.
  • volatile hydrocarbon-based oil containing from 7 to 16 carbon atoms mention may be made especially of C8-C16 branched alkanes, for instance C8-C16 isoalkanes (also known as isoparaffins), isododecane, isodecane, isohexadecane and for example the oils sold under the trade names Isopar or Permethyl, C8-C16 branched esters such as isohexyl neopentanoate, and mixtures thereof.
  • the volatile hydrocarbon-based oil containing from 8 to 16 carbon atoms is chosen from isododecane, isodecane and isohexadecane, and mixtures thereof, and is especially isododecane.
  • composition according to the invention may contain one or more volatile linear alkanes.
  • one or more volatile linear alkanes means, without preference, “one or more volatile linear alkane oils”.
  • a volatile linear alkane that is suitable for the invention is liquid at room temperature (about 25°C) and at atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg).
  • a "volatile linear alkane” that is suitable for the invention means a cosmetic linear alkane, which is capable of evaporating on contact with the skin in less than one hour, at room temperature (25°C) and atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg, i.e. 101 325 Pa), which is liquid at room temperature, especially having an evaporation rate ranging from 0.01 to 15 mg/cm 2 /min, at room temperature (25°C) and atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg).
  • the linear alkanes preferably of plant origin, comprise from 7 to 15 carbon atoms, in particular from 9 to 14 carbon atoms and more particularly from 1 1 to 13 carbon atoms.
  • linear alkanes that are suitable for use in the invention, mention may be made of the alkanes described in patent applications WO 2007/068 371 or WO 2008/155 059 by the company Cognis (mixtures of distinct alkanes that differ by at least one carbon). These alkanes are obtained from fatty alcohols, which are themselves obtained from coconut oil or palm oil.
  • linear alkanes that are suitable for the invention, mention may be made of n-heptane (C7), n-octane (C8), n-nonane (C9), n-decane (C10), n-undecane (C1 1 ), n- dodecane (C12), n-tridecane (C13), n-tetradecane (C14) and n-pentadecane (C15), and mixtures thereof, and in particular the mixture of n-undecane (C1 1 ) and n-tridecane (C13) described in Example 1 of patent application WO 2008/155 059 by the company Cognis. Mention may also be made of n-dodecane (C12) and n-tetradecane (C14) sold by Sasol under the references, respectively, Parafol 12-97 and Parafol 14-97, and also mixtures thereof.
  • the linear alkane may be used alone or as a mixture of at least two distinct alkanes that differ from each other by a carbon number of at least 1 , and especially a mixture of at least two linear alkanes comprising from 10 to 14 distinct carbon atoms that differ from each other by a carbon number of at least 2, and in particular a mixture of C1 1/C13 volatile linear alkanes or a mixture of C12/C14 linear alkanes, in particular an n- undecane/n-tridecane mixture (such a mixture may be obtained according to Example 1 or Example 2 of WO 2008/155 059).
  • composition prepared may comprise at least one volatile silicone oil or solvent that is compatible with cosmetic use.
  • silicon oil means an oil containing at least one silicon atom, and especially containing Si-0 groups. According to one embodiment, said composition comprises less than 10% by weight of volatile silicone oil(s), relative to the total weight of the composition, better still less than 5% by weight, or even is free of volatile silicone oil.
  • Volatile silicone oils that may be mentioned include cyclic polysiloxanes and linear polysiloxanes, and mixtures thereof.
  • Volatile linear polysiloxanes that may be mentioned include hexamethyldisiloxane, octamethyltrisiloxane, decamethyltetrasiloxane, tetradecamethylhexasiloxane and hexadecamethylheptasiloxane.
  • Volatile cyclic polysiloxanes that may be mentioned include hexamethylcyclotrisiloxane, octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane and dodecamethylcyclohexasiloxane.
  • composition prepared may comprise at least one volatile fluoro oil.
  • fluoro oil means an oil containing at least one fluorine atom.
  • Volatile fluoro oils that may be mentioned include nonafluoromethoxybutane and perfluoromethylcyclopentane, and mixtures thereof.
  • a composition according to the invention is preferably free of volatile oil.
  • at least one volatile oil may be present in a total content of less than 8% by weight.
  • the volatile oil may be present in the composition in a content of less than 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • a composition according to the invention comprises less than 3% by weight of volatile oil(s) relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • An assembly for coating keratin fibres suitable for the invention may comprise an applicator suitable for applying said cosmetic composition for coating keratin fibres and, where appropriate, a packaging device suitable for receiving said composition. According to a particular embodiment, such an assembly may comprise means for heating a composition in accordance with the invention.
  • composition in accordance with the invention may be subjected to heating means before and/or during application.
  • heating means may be integrally fastened to an assembly for coating keratin fibres and more particularly to an applicator suitable for applying said cosmetic composition for coating keratin fibres, and optionally, where appropriate, to a packaging device suitable for receiving said composition.
  • heating means are then suitable for melting at least part of the fatty phase, and especially at least part of the surfactant system and, where appropriate, at least part of the soft wax(es), and optionally at least part of the hard wax particles.
  • the wax particles are heated to a temperature T c such that only part of the crystallizable chains is melted.
  • the heating means may also come into contact with or face the composition to be heated.
  • the composition may be heated while it is contained in a packaging device.
  • the composition may be heated while it is at least partially exposed to the ambient air.
  • the composition may be locally heated to a temperature greater than or equal to 45°C, or even greater than or equal to 50°C, or even greater than or equal to 55°C.
  • the temperature of the composition should not entail any risk of burning at the time of application. This is why when the composition is heated before application, a waiting time between the moment at which the composition is heated and the application to the keratin materials may optionally be necessary.
  • the composition is heated simultaneously with its application to the keratin fibres.
  • the composition is heated before and during its application to the keratin fibres.
  • the temperature to which at least part of the composition is heated may be inclusively between 45°C and 95°C, better still 50°C to 85°C and even better still 55°C to 75°C.
  • the temperature may be measured, for example, at the surface using an infrared pyrometer, for example a Fluke® brand machine.
  • composition in accordance with the invention is capable of passing from a solid state to an at least partially liquid or even totally liquid state, and of doing so reversibly.
  • the solid/liquid change of state is at least partly due to the melting of a crystalline part, in particular of the wax(es) described previously in the present description.
  • the total heat of fusion of the composition is the heat consumed by the composition between -20°C and 120°C.
  • the total heat of fusion of the composition is equal to the area under the curve of the thermogram obtained using a differential scanning calorimeter (DSC), such as the calorimeter sold under the name MDSC 2920 by the company TA Instrument, with a temperature rise of 5°C or 10°C per minute, according to standard ISO 1 1357-3:1999.
  • DSC differential scanning calorimeter
  • a 5 mg sample of composition is placed in a crucible and subjected to a first temperature rise ranging from -20°C to 120°C, at a heating rate of 10°C/rminute, and is then cooled from 120°C to -20°C at a cooling rate of 10°C/rminute.
  • the sample is maintained at -20°C for 5 minutes and finally subjected to a second temperature rise ranging from -20°C to 100°C at a heating rate of 5°C / minute.
  • the variation in the difference in power absorbed by an empty crucible and by the crucible containing the sample of the composition is measured as a function of the temperature.
  • the melting point of the compound is the value of the temperature corresponding to the top of the peak of the curve representing the variation in the difference in power absorbed as a function of the temperature.
  • the heat of fusion of the composition consumed at the temperature T c is the amount of energy required to make the compound pass from the solid or very viscous state at -20°C to the state of the composition at the temperature T c . It is expressed in J/g.
  • the composition is chosen such that the ratio of the heat consumed between -20°C and T c by the product to the total heat consumed between -20°C and 120°C is greater than 0.4.
  • the choice of the temperature T c to which the composition is brought by the heating means may thus be made so that said ratio is greater than 0.4, for example inclusively between 0.4 and 0.9.
  • heating is performed to a temperature such that the ratio of the heat supplied to heat the sample of composition to the temperature T c to the total heat is greater than or equal to 0.4, such a parameter being measured according to the DSC protocol described above.
  • the applicator may comprise means for smoothing and/or separating keratin fibres, such as the eyelashes or the eyebrows, in particular in the form of teeth, bristles or other reliefs.
  • the applicator is arranged to apply the composition to the eyelashes or the eyebrows, and may comprise, for example, a brush or a comb.
  • the applicator may also be used for finishing of the makeup, over a region of the eyelashes or eyebrows that is made up or laden with composition.
  • the brush may comprise a twisted core and bristles held between the turns of the core, or may be made in yet another way.
  • the comb is, for example, produced from a single part by moulding of a plastic.
  • the application member is mounted at the end of a wand, which wand may be flexible, which may contribute to improving the comfort during application.
  • the packaging device may comprise a container for housing the composition for coating keratin fibres. This composition may then be withdrawn from the container by immersing the applicator therein.
  • This applicator may be firmly attached to a member for closing the container.
  • This closing member may form a member for gripping the applicator.
  • This gripping member may form a cap to be removably mounted on said container by any suitable means, such as screwing, click-fastening, coupling, etc. Such a container may thus reversibly house said applicator.
  • This container can be optionally equipped with a wiper suitable for removing a surplus of product withdrawn by the applicator.
  • a process for applying the composition according to the invention to the eyelashes or the eyebrows may also include the following steps:
  • the applicator may form a product container.
  • a container may, for example, be provided for in the gripping member and an internal channel can internally connect this gripping member to the application members in relief.
  • packaging and application assembly may be in the form of a kit, it being possible for the applicator and the packaging device to be housed separately in the same packaging article.
  • phase A Preparation of phase A
  • the ingredients of phase A are melted in a jacketed heating pan in which circulates an oil whose temperature is controlled by means of a thermostatic oil bath.
  • the nominal temperature is set at 80°C.
  • the pigment is introduced with stirring using a Rayneri blender. Stirring is continued until a homogeneous preparation is obtained.
  • the water is preheated in an electric kettle to 95°C.
  • the polymer is introduced into the water in a beaker at a temperature of 80°C with stirring using a Rayneri blender.
  • Phase B is poured into phase A with stirring for 5 minutes at 95°C using a Rayneri blender. Phase A+B is then cooled to room temperature.
  • Phase C is introduced into phase A+B when the temperature of the mixture is less than or equal to 40°C. End of formulation
  • the mascara thus obtained is transferred into a closed container to prevent it from drying out on contact with air.
  • Comparative mascara compositions C'1 , C'2 and C'3 outside the invention were prepared according to the same preparation protocol described above, and evaluated:
  • compositions prepared are evaluated regarding:
  • a spectroradiometer such as a Minolta spectrocolorimeter
  • the viscosity in Pa.s may be measured at 25°C with a rheometer, for example a Rheomat rheometer,
  • the comfort on application by assessing the application properties in terms of the glidance and the playtime (redeposition, retouching), especially regarding the ease of allowing at least 20 brushstrokes on the eyelashes, better still at least 25 brushstrokes, or even at least 30 brushstrokes, without the user sensing any dragging, the wear property of the curl via a rigidity study on a glass plate, consisting in spreading an amount of mascara and assessing the rigid feel.
  • compositions C1 and C2 according to the invention combine the desired properties, i.e.:
  • compositions C'1 to C'3 are manifestly unsatisfactory in terms of shaping and curling of the eyelash fringe. Furthermore, composition C'1 has a viscosity at 25°C of less than 5 Pa.s. Furthermore, compositions C'2 and C'3 are manifestly less black than the compositions according to the invention.
  • weight percentages given for a compound or a family of compounds are always expressed as weight of solids of the compound in question.

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Abstract

La présente invention concerne une composition, de préférence une composition cosmétique, en particulier pour le revêtement de fibres de kératine telles que des cils comprenant : une phase aqueuse, une phase lamellaire Lβ formée par un système tensioactif structurant de phase aqueuse, ledit système tensioactif comprenant une teneur en tensioactif(s) supérieure ou égale à 15 % en poids par rapport au poids total de la composition, au moins un polymère hydrophile de (poly)uréthane. La présente invention concerne également un procédé pour le revêtement de fibres de kératine.
PCT/EP2016/079488 2015-12-08 2016-12-01 Composition cosmétique pour le revêtement de fibres de kératine WO2017097667A1 (fr)

Applications Claiming Priority (2)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
FR1561984 2015-12-08
FR1561984A FR3044552B1 (fr) 2015-12-08 2015-12-08 Composition cosmetique de revetement des fibres keratiniques

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WO2017097667A1 true WO2017097667A1 (fr) 2017-06-15

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Citations (3)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
FR2996763A1 (fr) * 2012-10-15 2014-04-18 Oreal Composition cosmetique de revetement des fibres keratiniques
WO2014098268A1 (fr) * 2012-12-21 2014-06-26 L'oreal Composition cosmétique
US20150238392A1 (en) * 2012-10-15 2015-08-27 L'oreal Cosmetic composition for coating keratin fibres

Patent Citations (3)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
FR2996763A1 (fr) * 2012-10-15 2014-04-18 Oreal Composition cosmetique de revetement des fibres keratiniques
US20150238392A1 (en) * 2012-10-15 2015-08-27 L'oreal Cosmetic composition for coating keratin fibres
WO2014098268A1 (fr) * 2012-12-21 2014-06-26 L'oreal Composition cosmétique

Non-Patent Citations (2)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Title
ANONYMOUS: "Personal Care ACULYN(R) 44 Rheology Modifier/Stabilizer", 1 April 2004 (2004-04-01), pages 8PP, XP002757096, Retrieved from the Internet <URL:http://www.kalekimya.com/admin/tds/1415717161_aculyn_44-TDS.pdf> [retrieved on 20160403] *
ANONYMOUS: "Presenting Rheoluxe®Associative Thickeners for Personal Care", 14 April 2015 (2015-04-14), pages 14PP, XP002757095, Retrieved from the Internet <URL:http://www.in-cosmetics.com/RXUK/RXUK_InCosmetics/2015-Website/Documents/in-cos15,IS,T3,D1,Rheoluxe%20Novel%20polymeric%20rheology%20modifiers,Kim%20Burch.pdf?v=635653962537461743> [retrieved on 20160427] *

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