WO2021043864A1 - Composition cosmétique pour le revêtement de fibres kératiniques comprenant une phase lammellaire l-bêta, un carbonate cyclique et un colorant acide - Google Patents

Composition cosmétique pour le revêtement de fibres kératiniques comprenant une phase lammellaire l-bêta, un carbonate cyclique et un colorant acide Download PDF

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Publication number
WO2021043864A1
WO2021043864A1 PCT/EP2020/074532 EP2020074532W WO2021043864A1 WO 2021043864 A1 WO2021043864 A1 WO 2021043864A1 EP 2020074532 W EP2020074532 W EP 2020074532W WO 2021043864 A1 WO2021043864 A1 WO 2021043864A1
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composition
oxyethylene
composition according
weight
poly
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PCT/EP2020/074532
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English (en)
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Philippe Ilekti
Grégory Plos
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L'oreal
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Publication of WO2021043864A1 publication Critical patent/WO2021043864A1/fr

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    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q1/00—Make-up preparations; Body powders; Preparations for removing make-up
    • A61Q1/02—Preparations containing skin colorants, e.g. pigments
    • A61Q1/10—Preparations containing skin colorants, e.g. pigments for eyes, e.g. eyeliner, mascara
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/02—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by special physical form
    • A61K8/0295—Liquid crystals
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/31—Hydrocarbons
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/33—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
    • A61K8/39—Derivatives containing from 2 to 10 oxyalkylene groups
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/49—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing heterocyclic compounds
    • A61K8/4973—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing heterocyclic compounds with oxygen as the only hetero atom
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/84—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions otherwise than those involving only carbon-carbon unsaturated bonds
    • A61K8/86—Polyethers
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/92—Oils, fats or waxes; Derivatives thereof, e.g. hydrogenation products thereof
    • A61K8/922—Oils, fats or waxes; Derivatives thereof, e.g. hydrogenation products thereof of vegetable origin
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K2800/00—Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
    • A61K2800/40—Chemical, physico-chemical or functional or structural properties of particular ingredients
    • A61K2800/42—Colour properties
    • A61K2800/43—Pigments; Dyes
    • A61K2800/432—Direct dyes
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K2800/00—Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
    • A61K2800/40—Chemical, physico-chemical or functional or structural properties of particular ingredients
    • A61K2800/59—Mixtures
    • A61K2800/596—Mixtures of surface active compounds

Definitions

  • This invention relates to a cosmetic composition for coating keratin fibers, and particularly eyelashes or eyebrows.
  • said cosmetic composition is a makeup composition, and possibly eyelash care composition.
  • This invention also relates to a method of coating keratin fibers, in particular a makeup method, and possibly an eyelash care method.
  • This invention also relates to particular special uses.
  • the composition implemented can in particular be in the form of a product for eyelashes such as a mascara, or of a product for eyebrows. More preferentially, the invention concerns a mascara.
  • the term "mascara” denotes a composition intended to be applied on the eyelashes: it can be a makeup composition for the eyelashes, a makeup base for eyelashes (also called base-coat), a composition to be applied on a mascara, also called a top-coat, or a composition for the cosmetic treatment of eyelashes.
  • the mascara is more particularly intended for the eyelashes of human beings.
  • Mascaras are particularly prepared according to two types of formulation: aqueous mascaras referred to as cream mascaras, in the form of dispersion of waxes in water; anhydrous mascaras or mascaras with low water content, referred to as waterproof mascaras, in the form of dispersions of waxes in organic solvents.
  • aqueous mascaras referred to as cream mascaras
  • anhydrous mascaras or mascaras with low water content referred to as waterproof mascaras, in the form of dispersions of waxes in organic solvents.
  • compositions for coating keratin fibers with such a type of mascara generally consist of at least one oily phase dispersed in an aqueous liquid phase by means of an emulsifying system.
  • the eyelashes can be permanently or semi-permanently colored by means of direct colorants (for example this is the case for Rimmel Volume Colorist product).
  • direct colorants for example this is the case for Rimmel Volume Colorist product.
  • these products only color the eyelashes weakly.
  • Eyelashes are the keratin fibers that have the characteristic of being only very slightly porous and are therefore not very sensitive to the penetration of organic molecules, and particularly colorants. It is found that the results are generally considered unsatisfactory in terms of lengthening of the eyelash in the long term.
  • Application EP0962216 (Kao) describes capillary coloring compositions, comprising an acid colorant, propylene carbonate and benzyloxyethanol and/or benzyl alcohol.
  • Such compositions are adapted to application on hair, and are not suitable for application on eyelashes or eyebrows. They are difficult to apply, their wettability is not optimal and they do not add volume like a mascara.
  • compositions for coating keratin fibers preferably a mascara, conferring an immediate volume effect and remanent coloring of the eyelash and/or the eyebrow, particularly concerning the tip of the eyelash.
  • the purpose of this invention relates to a composition, preferably a cosmetic composition, in particular for coating keratin fibers such as eyelashes, comprising: an aqueous phase, an Lb lamellar phase formed by a surfactant system structuring the aqueous phase, said surfactant system being present with a content equal to or more than 15% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, and said surfactant system comprising at least 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition of a non ionic surfactant with HLB at 25°C greater than or equal to 8, and at least 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition of a non-ionic surfactant with HLB at 25°C of less than 8, at least 3% by weight of the total weight of the composition of a hydrotropic solvent chosen from solvents with formula (I): wherein R1 represents a hydrogen atom or a C1-4 linear or branched alkyl group, and at least one direct acid colorant compatible with an application around the eyes, chosen from colorants
  • compositions particularly adapted to coating of keratin fibers such as eyelashes, particularly a mascara composition, that very significantly improve the rise of direct acid colorants into the eyelash and/or the eyebrow.
  • hydrotropic solvent with formula (I) and a non-ionic lamellar phase enables an immediate volume effect and remanent coloring of the eyelash and/or the eyebrow after makeup removal, and particularly at the tip or the eyelash.
  • Another purpose of this invention according to a second aspect is a unit or kit for coating keratin fibers comprising:
  • composition applicator comprising means, possibly in relief, configured to engage with said keratin fibers such as the eyelashes or the eyebrows, so as to smooth and/or separate the eyelashes or the eyebrows.
  • Such relief may include teeth, bristles or other means.
  • Another purpose of this invention according to a third aspect is a unit or kit for packaging and application of a composition for coating keratin fibers comprising: a packaging device comprising said cosmetic composition for coating keratin fibers such as described hereinabove, and an applicator of said composition.
  • Said applicator can be integral with a gripping member forming a cover for said packaging device.
  • said applicator can be mounted in a movable position on said device between a sealed position and a released position of a dispensing opening in the device for packaging said composition.
  • This invention also has for object a method for coating with keratin fibers comprising the application on said keratin fibers of a composition according to the invention.
  • composition according to this invention is described in detail below.
  • composition according to the invention may be rinsed or unrinsed. It is preferably unrinsed.
  • composition according to the invention comprises an aqueous phase that may form a continuous phase of the composition.
  • the composition according to the invention comprises a continuous aqueous phase.
  • continuous aqueous phase means that the composition has a conductivity, measured at 25°C, greater than 23 mS/cm (microSiemens/cm), with the conductivity being measured for example using a Mettler Toledo MPC227 conductometer and an Inlab730 conductivity measuring cell.
  • the measuring cell is immersed in the composition, in such a way as to remove air bubbles that can form between the two electrodes of the cell. Reading the conductivity is done as soon as the value of the conductometer has stabilized. An average is taken over at least three successive measurements.
  • the aqueous phase comprises water. It may also comprise at least one water- soluble solvent.
  • water-soluble solvent denotes in the present invention a water- miscible compound liquid at ambient temperature.
  • the water-soluble solvents suitable for use in the compositions according to the invention may further be volatile.
  • water-soluble solvents suitable for use in the compositions according to the invention mention may notably be made of lower monoalcohols having 1 to 5 carbon atoms such as ethanol and isopropanol, glycols having 3 to 8 carbon atoms such as propylene glycol, 1 ,3-butylene glycol and dipropylene glycol.
  • Water is preferably present in the composition according to the present application with a content ranging from 30% to 70% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably ranging from 40% to 60% by weight, and more preferably from 40% to 55% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the aqueous phase (water and optionally the water-miscible solvent) is preferably present in the composition according to the present application with a content ranging from 30% to 70% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably ranging from 40% to 60% by weight, and more preferably from 45% to 55% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • This content of the aqueous phase includes not only water deliberately added to the composition, but also any water added with other ingredients.
  • a composition complying with the invention comprises a surfactant system forming an Lb lamellar phase in the aqueous phase.
  • This surfactant system comprises at least two non-ionic surfactants such that the composition comprises at least 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition of non-ionic surfactant with HLB at 25°C greater than or equal to 8, and at least 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition of non-ionic surfactant with HLB at 25°C of less than 8.
  • This surfactant system structuring the aqueous phase into an Lb lamellar phase is present with a content greater than or equal to 15% by weight with respect to the total weight of the composition, preferably 15% to 40% by weight and more preferably 16 to 35% by weight with respect to the total weight of the composition.
  • the surfactant system comprises a total content of surfactants greater than or equal to 15% by weight, preferably from 15% to 40% by weight and better from 16% to 35% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the surfactant system comprises at least 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition of a non-ionic surfactant with HLB at 25°C greater than or equal to 8, and at least 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition of a non-ionic surfactant with HLB at 25°C of less than 8.
  • the surfactant system consists solely of two or several non-ionic surfactants.
  • the surfactant system contains less than 2% by weight, preferably less than 1% by weight, even more preferably less than 0.5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition of anionic surfactant, zwitterionic surfactant and/or cationic surfactant.
  • the surfactant system comprises at least one non-ionic surfactant with HLB at 25°C greater than or equal to 8, and preferably greater than or equal to 10.
  • the surfactant system also comprises at least one non-ionic surfactant with HLB at 25°C less than 8.
  • the surfactant system comprises at least one non-ionic surfactant with HLB at 25°C greater than or equal to 10; and at least one with HLB at 25°C less than
  • HLB hydrophilic-lipophilic balance
  • non-ionic surfactants which constitute the surfactant system according to the invention are chosen particularly from among:
  • (Poly)oxyalkylenated or non-(poly)oxyalkylenated polyol esters are preferred, particularly (poly)oxyalkylenated polyol ester, (poly)oxyalkylenated glycerol, (poly)oxyalkylenated sorbitol or (poly)oxyalkylenated polyethylene glycol, and
  • (Poly)oxyalkylenated or non-(poly)oxyalkylenated alcohols are preferred.
  • Preferred alcohols are C8-24 fatty alcohol ethers or polyethylene glycol ethers with from 1 to 200 and preferably from 2 to 100 units of ethylene glycol.
  • Fatty alcohols are another possible alternative, for example C14-C24 (preferably C16-24) fatty alcohols, preferably in C14-C22, preferably in C16-C18, comprising a saturated or unsaturated linear or branched hydrocarbon, preferably primary fatty alcohols that present a saturated linear system such as particularly stearyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, arachidyl alcohol, lignocerylic alcohol and mixtures thereof.
  • the surfactant system comprises a non-ionic surfactant with the following general formula (II): wherein:
  • ALK1 is a C7-23, preferably a C11-21 and more preferably a C15- 19 alkyl group, a and b are integers between 0 and 100, a and b are preferably equal to 0, c is an integer between 1 and 100, particularly between 1 and 3 and preferably equal to 1 ,
  • o Z is a group substituted or terminated by a hydroxyl group : o Z is preferably an oxyethylene (CH 2 CH 2 0) q or (OCH 2 CH 2 ) q group in which q is an integer greater than or equal to 1.
  • the (poly)oxyalkylenated group is a polyethylene glycol or is chosen from among polyglycerols, o Z is preferably chosen from among formulas (G) and (H):
  • o ALK2 are identical or different and represent a C1-6 alkylene group, particularly C1-4 and preferably ethylene
  • o s, t and u are integers between 0 and 100, it being understood that s+t+u is not equal to 0 and is preferably between 1 and 100.
  • o ALK2 is identical or different and represents a C1 - 6 alkylene group, particularly C1-4 and preferably ethylene.
  • o u represents an integer not equal to 0 and preferably between 1 and 200.
  • the surfactant system comprises a non-ionic surfactant with the following general formula (III): in which
  • ⁇ ALK3 is a C8-24, preferably a C12-22 and more preferably a C16- 18 alkyl group,
  • ⁇ v is an integer between 1 and 200, and preferably between 2 and 100.
  • the non-ionic surfactant with HLB at 25°C of less than 8 is chosen from among (poly)oxyalkylenated alcohols, preferably oxyethylene and/or oxypropylene alcohols with 1 to 15 ethylene glycol and/or propylene glycol units, preferably C8-24 and particularly C16-24 ethoxylated fatty alcohols, such as ethoxylated stearyl alcohol comprising 2 oxyethylene units (INCI name: steareth-2) such as Uniqema’s Brij 72; and fatty alcohols in C 14 -C 22 , preferably in C 16 -C 18 , such as cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol or cetearyl alcohol.
  • (poly)oxyalkylenated alcohols preferably oxyethylene and/or oxypropylene alcohols with 1 to 15 ethylene glycol and/or propylene glycol units, preferably C8-24 and particularly C16-24 ethoxylated fatty alcohols, such as ethoxylated
  • the non-ionic surfactant with HLB at 25°C greater than or equal to 8 is chosen from among:
  • ⁇ fatty acid esters particularly C8-C24 acid, and preferably C16-C22 acid
  • oxyethylene and/or oxypropylene glycerol ethers that may include 1 to 150 oxyethylenated and/or oxypropylene groups
  • PEG-200 glyceryl monostearate sold particularly under the name Simulsol 220 TM by SEPPIC, or PEG-100 stearate sold particularly under the name Myrj S100 by Croda
  • polyethoxylated glyceryl stearate with 30 ethylene oxide groups such as the TAG AT S product sold by GOLDSCHMIDT, polyethoxylated glyceryl oleate with 30 ethylene oxide groups like the TAG AT O product sold by GOLDSCHMIDT, polyethoxylated glyceryl cocoate with 30 ethylene oxide groups like the VARIONIC LI 13 product sold by SHEREX, polyethoxylated glyceryl isostearate with 30 ethylene oxide
  • ⁇ oxyethylene and/or oxypropylene ethers that may comprise from 1 to 150 oxyethylene and/or oxypropylene groups) of fatty alcohols (particularly C8-C24 and preferably C12-C18 alcohols) such as oxyethylene ether of stearyl alcohol with 20 oxyethylene groups (CTFA name “Steareth-20”) such as BRIJ 78 marketed by UNIQUEMA, oxyethylene ether of cetearylic alcohol with 30 oxyethylene groups (CTFA name “Ceteareth-30”), and oxyethylene ether of the mix of C12-C15 fatty alcohols containing 7 oxyethylene groups (CTFA name “C12-15 Pareth-7”) marketed under the name NEODOL 25-7 by SHELL CHEMICALS.
  • fatty alcohols particularly C8-C24 and preferably C12-C18 alcohols
  • CTFA name “Steareth-20” such as BRIJ 78 marketed by UNIQUEMA
  • CTFA name “Ceteareth-30”
  • the non-ionic lamellar phase is the result of a combination of a non-ionic surfactant with HLB at 25°C greater than or equal to 8, with a non-ionic surfactant with HLB at 25°C less than 8.
  • the surfactant system according to the invention comprises at least one non-ionic surfactant with HLB at 25°C greater than or equal to 8, with at least one a non-ionic surfactant with HLB at 25°C less than 8.
  • the surfactant system comprises a mixture of at least two (poly)oxyalkylenated alcohols, preferably at least two C8-24 fatty alcohol ethers or at least two polyethylene glycol ethers with 2 to 20 ethylene glycol units.
  • the non-ionic surfactant with HLB at 25°C of less than 8 is chosen from among C 16-24 ethoxylated fatty alcohols (comprising 1 to 5 ethylene glycol units), such as ethoxylated stearyl alcohol comprising 2 oxyethylene units (INCI name: steareth- 2) such as Uniqema’s Brij 72, and fatty alcohols in C14-C22, preferably in C16-C18, such as cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol or cetearylic alcohol.
  • C 16-24 ethoxylated fatty alcohols comprising 1 to 5 ethylene glycol units
  • ethoxylated stearyl alcohol comprising 2 oxyethylene units such as Uniqema’s Brij 72
  • fatty alcohols in C14-C22 preferably in C16-C18, such as cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol or cetearylic alcohol.
  • ⁇ 8 is a mixture of: - at least one ester of C16-22 fatty acid and oxyethylene glycerol ethers that include 20 to 50 oxyethylenated groups, such as polyethoxylated glyceryl stearate with 30 ethylene oxide groups such as the TAG AT S product sold by GOLDSCHMIDT, and
  • oxyethylene ether that comprises from 10 to 50 oxyethylene groups, of C12-18 fatty alcohols, such as oxyethylene ether of stearyl alcohol with 20 oxyethylene groups (CTFA name “Steareth-20”) such as BRIJ 78 marketed by UNIQUEMA.
  • the non-ionic surfactant with HLB at 25°C greater than or equal to 8 is chosen from esters of fatty acids (particularly C8-C24 acid, and preferably C16-C22 acid) and of oxyethylene and/or oxypropylene glycerol ethers (that may include 1 to 150 oxyethylenated and/or oxypropylene groups), such as PEG-200 glyceryl monostearate, or PEG-100 stearate.
  • the surfactant system comprises a mixture of:
  • non-ionic surfactant with HLB at 25°C of less than 8 chosen from among C 16-24 ethoxylated fatty alcohols (comprising 1 to 5 ethylene glycol units), such as ethoxylated stearyl alcohol comprising 2 oxyethylene units (INCI name: steareth-2) such as Uniqema’s Brij 72; and
  • non-ionic surfactants with HLB at 25°C greater than or equal to 8 which are a mixture of:
  • ester of C 16-22 fatty acid and oxyethylene glycerol ethers that include 20 to 50 oxyethylenated groups, such as polyethoxylated glyceryl stearate with 30 ethylene oxide groups such as the TAG AT S product sold by GOLDSCHMIDT, and
  • oxyethylene ether that comprises from 10 to 50 oxyethylene groups, of C12-18 fatty alcohols, such as oxyethylene ether of stearyl alcohol with 20 oxyethylene groups (CTFA name “Steareth-20”) such as BRIJ 78 marketed by UNIQUEMA.
  • the surfactant system comprises a mixture of:
  • non-ionic surfactant with HLB at 25°C greater than or equal to 8 chosen from esters of fatty acids (particularly C8-C24 acid, and preferably C16-C22 acid) and of oxyethylene and/or oxypropylene glycerol ethers (that may include 1 to 150 oxyethylenated and/or oxypropylene groups), such as PEG-200 glyceryl monostearate, or PEG-100 stearate.
  • the surfactant system according to the invention organizes the aqueous phase in the form of a Lb lamellar phase, or Lb paracrystalline phase, or lamellar gel phase.
  • This composition is stable at an ambient temperature of 25°C.
  • its viscosity is between 5 and 50 Pa.s, measured at ambient temperature of 25°C using a RM100® Rheomat.
  • a lamellar gel phase or Lb paracrystalline phase is a phase in which surfactant molecules and/or more generally amphiphilic compounds are organized in the form of bimolecular layers separated by aqueous flakes.
  • Molecules in bimolecular layers are distributed according to a hexagonal geometry, their hydrocarbon chains are in a crystalline state and are oriented perpendicular to the plane of the bimolecular layers but have no specific orientation relative to each other in the plane of these layers.
  • Lb paracrystalline phases are metastable phases within which fatty chains are in the solid state and are arranged randomly relative to each other, unlike micellar paracrystalline and fluid lamellar phases (La) within which fatty chains are in the liquid state, and unlike crystalline phases within which the fatty chains are in the solid state and are oriented relative to each other in an ordered manner.
  • La micellar paracrystalline and fluid lamellar phases
  • Different techniques can be used to identify the lamellar gel phase or the Lb paracrystalline phase of the surfactant system present in the composition according to the invention, and particularly the X-ray scattering technique.
  • X-ray diagrams have been recorded by an Mar345 image plates detector (Maresearch, Norderstedt, Germany), mounted on an FR591 rotary anode X-ray generator (Bruker, Courtaboeuf, France), used at 50 kV and at 50 mA.
  • the beam being defined by four motor-driven carbon-tungsten slits (JJ-Xray, Roskilde, Denmark) placed in front of the mirror (500 mm).
  • a composition conforming with the invention comprises at least 3% of a hydrotropic solvent chosen from among solvents with formula (I): wherein R1 represents a hydrogen atom or a C1-4 linear or branched alkyl group.
  • the solvent is ethylene carbonate or propylene carbonate, preferably propylene carbonate.
  • the hydrotropic solvent is present with a total content greater than or equal to 3% by weight, preferably greater than or equal to 5%, particularly from 5 to 35% by weight, or preferably 8 to 25% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • a composition conforming with the invention comprises at least one direct acid colorant with application around the eyes.
  • This direct acid colorant is chosen from colorants having an anthraquinone, azine, azoic, polymethine, triarylmethane or xanthene core, and colorants comprising at least one group -N02.
  • Direct acid colorant means an acid colorant that is present in free form in the composition. In particular, it is not supported by a support such as alumina. Thus, preferably, the direct acid colorant is solubilized in the aqueous phase.
  • the direct acid colorant is not a lacquer.
  • This direct acid colorant is advantageously present with a total content ranging from 0.1% to 10% by weight, preferably 0.1 to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • colorants having an anthraquinone, azine, azoic, polymethine, triaryl methane or xanthene core, and colorants comprising at least one group -N02.
  • Colorants with an anthraquinone core are preferably the following
  • the colorant with an azine core is preferably the following:
  • Colorants with an azoic core are preferably the following:
  • the colorant with a polymethine core is preferably the following:
  • Colorants with a triarylmethane core are preferably the following:
  • Colorants with a xanthene core are preferably the following:
  • the colorant with a group -NO2 is preferably the following:
  • the colorant Is chosen from colorants with an anthraquinone, azoic, triarylmethane or xanthene core.
  • the colorant is chosen from :
  • the colorant is chosen from colorants with an anthraquinone, azoic or triaryl methane core.
  • the colorant is chosen from :
  • composition according to the invention may also comprise different ingredients as described below.
  • composition may also comprise at least one film-forming polymer.
  • This polymer can be present as such, in particular this is the case for water- soluble film-forming polymers (hydrosoluble); or it may be present in the form of an aqueous dispersion of particles (latex or pseudo latex).
  • the particle size has an average diameter of less than or equal to 5 mm, preferably less than or equal to 2 mm, and even more preferably less than 1 mm.
  • Particles can be electronically uncharged, or they can be negatively or positively charged.
  • the film-forming polymer is chosen from among radicular or polycondensed polymers, polymers from natural sources and mixtures thereof.
  • these polymers are statistical polymers, block polymers type A-B or A-B-A or A-B-C-D, etc. multiblock copolymers or grafted polymers.
  • the film-forming polymer is chosen from among aqueous dispersions of acrylic polymers, polyurethanes, sulfopolyesters, vinyls, polyvinyl acetates, vinylpyrrolidones and mixtures thereof.
  • the film-forming polymer is chosen from among acrylic polymers and derivatives thereof.
  • Preferred acrylic polymers are styrene-acrylic polymers, particularly the styrene/acrylate/ammonium methacrylate copolymer (Syntran 5760 CG from Interpolymer), and preferred polyurethane polymers are polyesterpolyurethane polymers and derivatives thereof.
  • the film-forming polymer has a natural source, it is chosen from among shellac residue, sandarac gum, dammar resins, elemi gums, copal resins, cellulose polymers insoluble in water such as nitrocellulose, methylcellulose and modified cellulose esters, particularly carboxyalkyl cellulose esters.
  • Film-forming polymers soluble in water are preferably chosen from among: plant proteins such as wheat and soy; cellulose polymers such as hydroxyethylcellulose, hydroxypropylcellulose, derivatives of quaternized cellulose; vinyl polymers such as polyvinylpyrrolidones (Luviskol K30); polyvinyl alcohols; gum arable, guar gum, xanthan derivatives, karaya gum, acacia gum; alginates and carrageenans.
  • plant proteins such as wheat and soy
  • cellulose polymers such as hydroxyethylcellulose, hydroxypropylcellulose, derivatives of quaternized cellulose
  • vinyl polymers such as polyvinylpyrrolidones (Luviskol K30); polyvinyl alcohols
  • gum arable, guar gum, xanthan derivatives, karaya gum, acacia gum alginates and carrageenans.
  • the film-forming polymer is preferably present with a content of active material greater than or equal to 1% by weight, preferably greater than or equal to 1 .2% by weight, and even more preferably between 1% and 20% by weight of the total weight of the composition.
  • Gelling agent a content of active material greater than or equal to 1% by weight, preferably greater than or equal to 1 .2% by weight, and even more preferably between 1% and 20% by weight of the total weight of the composition.
  • composition may also comprise at least one gelling agent.
  • This gelling agent is preferably hydrophilic.
  • the hydrophilic gelling agent may be chesen from among:
  • ⁇ AMPS poly acrylamido methylpropane sulfonic acid partially neutralized by ammonia and strongly cross-linked
  • the hydrophilic gelling agent is chosen from among AMPS,
  • the gelling agent may be present in a content ranging from 0.1% to 5% by weight, preferably from 0.5% to 3% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • a composition according to the invention can comprise at least one wax.
  • composition according to the invention advantageously comprises less than 25% by weight of wax(es), particularly less than 20% by weight of wax(res), relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the wax(es) may be present in a content ranging from 5% to 25% by weight, preferably from 10% to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the wax or waxes is/are in general a lipophilic compound, that is solid at ambient temperature (25°C), having a reversible solid/liquid change of state and a melting point greater than or equal to 30°C and up to 200°C and particularly up to 120°C.
  • the melting point is equivalent to the temperature of the most endothermic peak observed in thermal analysis (DSC) as described in the standard ISO 11357-3; 1999.
  • the melting point of the wax may be measured using a differential scanning calorimeter (DSC), for example the calorimeter sold under the name "DSC Q2000" by TA Instruments.
  • the waxes have an enthalpy of fusion DHf greater than or equal to
  • the measurement protocol is as follows:
  • a 5 mg sample of wax placed in a crucible is subjected to a first temperature rise from -20°C to 120°C, at a heating rate of 10°C / minute, and is then cooled from 120°C to -20°C at a cooling rate of 10°C / minute and finally subjected to a second temperature rise from -20°C to 120°C at a heating rate of 5°C / minute.
  • the following parameters are measured:
  • T f the melting point of the wax
  • enthalpy of fusion of the wax equivalent to the integral of the overall fusion curve obtained.
  • This enthalpy of fusion of the wax is the quantity of energy required to change the compound from the solid state to the liquid state. It is expressed in J/g.
  • the wax or waxes can be hydrocarbon, fluorinated and/or silicone and be of plant, mineral, animal, and/or synthetic origin.
  • a composition according to the invention may include at least one wax chosen from among the group composed of polar waxes, apolar waxes and mixtures thereof.
  • a composition conforming with the invention advantageously comprises at least one polar wax.
  • the composition advantageously comprises at least one wax
  • Waxes are particularly as described in the Ullmann's Encyclopedia of Industrial Chemistry 2015, Wiley- VCH Verlag GmbH & Co. KGaA,
  • waxes can be natural, but also synthetic.
  • Natural wax denotes any wax that exists in nature or that can be transformed, extracted or purified from natural compounds existing in nature.
  • Natural waxes include particularly so-called fossil waxes including waxes originating from petroleum such as ozocerite, pyropissite, microcristalline waxes also called paraffins - including raw waxes or slack wax, raffinates of slack wax, deoiled slack wax, soft waxes, semi-refined waxes, filtered waxes, refined waxes - and microcrystalline waxes called microwaxes including “bright stock” slack wax.
  • Fossil waxes still contain lignite also called montan wax, or peat wax.
  • Natural waxes other than fossil waxes include animal and plant waxes.
  • plant waxes examples include carnauba wax, candelilla wax, ouricuri wax, sugarcane wax, jojoba wax, Trithrinax campestris wax, raphia wax, alfalfa wax, wax extract from Douglas Fir, sisal wax, linen wax, cotton wax, Batavia dammar wax, cereal wax, tea wax, coffee wax, rice wax, palm wax, Japan wax, mixtures and derivatives thereof.
  • animal waxes examples include beeswax, Ghedda wax, shellac, Chinese wax, lanolin also called wool wax, mixtures and derivatives thereof.
  • Synthetic wax denotes waxes for which the synthesis requires one or several chemical reactions controlled by humans.
  • Synthetic waxes can be waxes obtained using a Fischer- Tropsch process, composed for example of paraffins with a number of carbon atoms varying from 20 to 50 or polyolefin waxes, for example of homo- or copolymers of ethylene, propene or butene, or even a-olefins of longer chains.
  • the latter can be obtained by thermomechanical breakdown of the plastic polyethylene by the Ziegler process, by high pressure processes, or by processes catalyzed by metallocene species.
  • These waxes may be crystallizable, partially crystallizable or amorphous.
  • the synthetic waxes mentioned above are generally apolar and can be chemically treated to obtain polar waxes, for example by one or several of the following reactions: oxidation in air, grafting, esterification, neutralization by metallic soaps, amidification, direct copolymerizations or addition reactions.
  • Compositions according to the invention may comprises at least one oil.
  • the oil can be chosen from non-volatile oils, volatile oils, and mixtures thereof.
  • the composition comprises less than 10% by weight of oil, preferably less than 5% by weight of oil.
  • the composition comprises less than 10% by weight, preferably less than 5% by weight, and preferably no volatile oil at all.
  • Oil means a fatty body that is liquid at ambient temperature and atmospheric pressure.
  • non-volatile oil denotes an oil remaining on the skin or keratin fiber at ambient temperature and pressure. More specifically, a non-volatile oil has an evaporation rate strictly below 0.01 mg/cm 2 /min.
  • Said at least one non-volatile oil can be chosen from among hydrocarbon oils and silicone oils and mixtures thereof, preferably among hydrocarbon oils.
  • non-volatile hydrocarbon oils suitable for this invention can in particular be chosen from among:
  • oils of plant origin such as triglycerides constituted of fatty acid esters and glycerol for which the fatty acids can have chain lengths ranging from C4 to C28, with the latter able to be linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated; these oils are in particular wheat germ, sunflower, grape seed, sesame, corn, apricot, castor, shea, avocado, olive, soybean oils, sweet almond, rapeseed, cotton, hazelnut, macadamia, jojoba, palm, alfalfa, poppy seed, pumpkin, sesame, squash, rapeseed, blackcurrant, evening primrose, millet, barley, quinoa, rye, safflower, candlenut, passiflora, musk rose oil; or caprylic/capric acid triglycerides such as those sold by Stearineries Dubois or those sold under the trade names Miglyol 810®, 812® and 818® by Sasol;
  • - synthetic ethers having from 10 to 40 carbon atoms; - linear or branched hydrocarbons, with inorganic or synthetic source other than polymers according to the invention such as vaseline, polybutenes, polydecenes, squalane and mixtures thereof;
  • esters such as the oils having the formula R1COOR2 wherein R1 represents the residue of a linear or branched fatty acid comprising 1 to 40 carbon atoms and R2 represents a hydrocarbon chain, particularly branched containing 1 to 40 carbon atoms where R1 + R2 > 10, such as for example Purcellin oil (cetostearyl octanoate), isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, C12 to C15 alcohol benzoate, hexyl laurate, diisopropyl adipate, isononyl isononanoate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, isostearate of isostearate, alcohol or polyalcohol octanoates, decanoates or ricinoleates such as propylene glycol dioctanoate; hydroxylated esters, such as isostearyl lactate, diisostearyl malate; and pentaerythritol
  • octyldodecanol isostearyl alcohol, oleic alcohol, 2-hexyldecanol, 2-butyloctanol, 2-undecylpentadecanol;
  • - higher fatty acids such as oleic acid, linoleic acid, linolenic acid, and mixtures thereof;
  • non-volatile silicone oils that can be used in the composition in accordance with the invention can be polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMS) which are non-volatile, polydimethylsiloxanes comprising alkyl or alkoxy groups which are pendant or at the end of the silicone chain, said groups each having 2 to 24 carbon atoms; phenylated silicones, such as phenyl trimethicones, phenyl dimethicones, phenyltrimethylsiloxydiphenylsiloxanes, diphenyl dimethicones, diphenyl methyldiphenyl- trisiloxanes or (2-phenylethyl)trimethylsiloxysilicates.
  • PDMS polydimethylsiloxanes
  • phenylated silicones such as phenyl trimethicones, phenyl dimethicones, phenyltrimethylsiloxydiphenylsiloxanes, diphenyl dimethico
  • a composition according to the invention comprises less than 3% by weight of non-volatile oil(s) relative to the total weight of the composition, and preferably contains none at all.
  • composition according to the invention can comprise at least one volatile oil.
  • volatile oil denotes an oil (or non-aqueous medium) liable to evaporate on contact with the skin in less than one hour, at ambient temperature and atmospheric pressure.
  • the volatile oil is a volatile cosmetic oil that is liquid at ambient temperature. More precisely, a volatile oil has an evaporation rate of between 0.01 and 200 mg/cm 2 /mn, inclusive.
  • This volatile oil can be hydrocarbon.
  • the hydrocarbon volatile oil may be chosen from hydrocarbon oils having from 7 to 16 carbon atoms.
  • composition according to the invention can contain one or several volatile branched alkanes.
  • One or several volatile branched alkanes means indifferently “one or several volatile branched alkane oils”.
  • hydrocarbon volatile oil having 7 to 16 carbon atoms mention can be made in particular of C8-C16 branched alkanes such as C8-C16 iso-alkanes (also called isoparaffins), isododecane, isodecane, isohexadecane and for example the oils sold under the trade names of Isopars or Permetyls, C8-C16 branched esters such as isohexyl neopentanoate, and mixtures thereof.
  • the hydrocarbon volatile oil having from 8 to 16 carbon atoms is chosen from among isododecane, isodecane, isohexadecane and mixtures thereof, and is in particular isododecane.
  • composition according to the invention can contain one or several volatile linear alkanes.
  • “One or several volatile linear alkanes” means indifferently "one or several volatile linear alkane oils”.
  • a volatile linear alkane suitable for the invention is liquid at ambient temperature (about 25 °C) and at atmospheric pressure (760 mm Hg).
  • Volatile linear alkane suitable for the invention means a cosmetic linear alkane, liable to evaporate on in contact with the skin in less than one hour, at ambient temperature (25°C) and atmospheric pressure (760 mm Hg, i.e. 101 325 Pa), liquid at ambient temperature, having in particular an evaporation rate ranging from 0.01 to 15 mg/cm 2 /min, at ambient temperature (25°C) and atmospheric pressure (760 mm Hg).
  • the linear alkanes preferably of plant origin, comprise from 7 to 15 carbon atoms, in particular from 9 to 14 carbon atoms, and more particularly from 11 to 13 carbon atoms.
  • linear alkanes suitable for the invention mention can be made of the alkanes described in patent applications WO 2007/068371 or W02008/155059 by Cog n is (separate alkane mixtures differing by at least one carbon). These alkanes are obtained from fatty alcohols, themselves obtained from coconut or palm oil.
  • linear alkanes suitable for the invention, mention can be made of n- heptane (C7), n-octane (C8), n-nonane (C9), n-decane (C10), n-undecane (C11), n- dodecane (C12), n-tridecane (C13), n-tetradecane (C14), n-pentadecane (C15), and mixtures thereof, and in particular the mixture of n-undecane (C11) and n-tridecane (C13) described in example 1 of the application W02008/155059 by Cognis. Mention can also be made of n-dodecane (C12) and n-tetradecane (C14) sold by Sasol under references PARAFOL 12-97 and PARAFOL 14-97 respectively, and mixtures thereof.
  • the linear alkane can be used alone or in a mixture of at least two separate alkanes differing from each other by a number of carbons of at least 1 , and in particular a mixture of at least two linear alkanes comprising from 10 to 14 separate carbon atoms and differing from each other by a number of carbons of at least 2, and in particular a mixture of C11/C13 linear volatile alkanes or a mixture of C12/C14 linear alkanes, in particular an n-undecane/n-tridecane mixture (such a mixture can be obtained according to example 1 or example 2 in WO 2008/155059).
  • composition made can comprise at least one volatile silicone solvent or oil, compatible with a cosmetic use.
  • Silicone oil means an oil that contains at least one silicon atom, and in particular containing Si-0 groups. According to one embodiment, said composition comprises less than 10% by weight of volatile silicone oils, relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably less than 5% by weight, or is even free from volatile silicone oil.
  • cyclic polysiloxanes As a silicon volatile oil, mention can be made of cyclic polysiloxanes, linear polysiloxanes and mixtures thereof.
  • linear volatile polysiloxanes mention can be made of hexamethyldisiloxane, octamethyltrisiloxane, decamethyltetrasiloxane, tetradecamethylhexasiloxane and hexadecamethylheptasiloxane.
  • cyclic volatile polysiloxanes mention can be made of hexamethylcyclotrisiloxane, octamethylcylotetrasiloxane, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane and dodecamethylcyclohexasiloxane.
  • a composition according to the invention preferably contains no volatile oil.
  • the composition according to the invention comprises less than 10% by weight, preferably less than 5% by weight, and preferably no volatile hydrocarbon oil at all.
  • the composition according to the invention comprises less than 10% by weight, preferably less than 5% by weight, and preferably is devoid of any isododecane.
  • Pigments and pearls Compositions according to the invention may comprise at least one pigment and/or pearl.
  • Pigments and pearls may be chosen from among pigments and nacres (or pearls), preferably from among pigments.
  • the pigments may be white or colored, inorganic and/or organic, coated or uncoated, which are not soluble in the aqueous phase.
  • inorganic pigments mention may be made of metal oxides and particularly titanium dioxide, optionally surface- treated, zirconium, zinc or cerium oxides, along with iron, titanium or chromium oxides, manganese violet, ultramarine blue, chromium hydrate and iron blue.
  • organic pigments mention may be made of carbon black, D & C type pigments, and lacquers based on cochineal carmine, barium, strontium, calcium, aluminum.
  • Nacres are pearlescent particles which are not soluble in the aqueous phase. They may be chosen from among white pearlescent pigments such as mica coated with titanium, or bismuth oxychloride, colored pearlescent pigments such as titanium mica with iron oxides, titanium mica particularly with iron blue or chromium oxide, titanium mica with an organic pigment of the aforementioned type and pearlescent pigments based on bismuth oxychloride.
  • white pearlescent pigments such as mica coated with titanium, or bismuth oxychloride
  • colored pearlescent pigments such as titanium mica with iron oxides, titanium mica particularly with iron blue or chromium oxide, titanium mica with an organic pigment of the aforementioned type and pearlescent pigments based on bismuth oxychloride.
  • These pigments and/or pearls may be present with a content ranging from 0.01 to 20% by mass with respect to the total weight of the composition, in particular from 3 to 15% by mass, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the composition according to the invention contains less than 2% by weight, preferably less than 1% by weight, preferably less than 0.5% by weight, preferably less than 0.1% by weight, and preferably contains no lacquer, particularly the organic lacquer.
  • organic lacquer is supported by an organic support such as the colophane, or aluminum benzoate, for example.
  • organic lacquers mention may be made in particular of lacquers known under the following names: D&C Red n° 2 Aluminium lake, D&C Red n° 3 Aluminium lake, D&C Red n° 4 Aluminium lake, D&C Red n°
  • compositions in accordance with the invention can also comprise at least one filler.
  • the fillers can be chosen from among those that are well known to those skilled in the art and commonly used in cosmetic compositions.
  • the fillers can be inorganic or organic, lamellar or spherical. Mention may be made of talc, mica, silica, kaolin, polyamide powders such as Nylon ® marketed under the name Orgasol ® by Atochem, poly-b-alanine and polyethylene, tetrafluoroethylene polymer powders such as Teflon ® , lauroyl-lysine, starch, boron nitride, expanded polymeric hollow microspheres such as those of polyvinylidene chloride/acrylonitrile such as those sold under the name Expancel ® by Nobel Industrie, acrylic powders such as those marketed under the name Polytrap ® by Dow Corning, methyl polymethacrylate particles and silicone resin microbeads (Tospearls ® from Toshiba, for example), precipitated calcium carbonate, magnesium carbonate and
  • Fillers may be present with a content less than or equal to 10% by weight, and more preferably less than 2% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition and even more preferably there is no filler at all.
  • compositions in accordance with the invention can also comprise at least one active cosmetic constituent.
  • compositions conforming with the invention mention may be made in particular of antioxidants, preservation agents, perfumes, neutralizers, softeners, coalescence agents, moisturizers, vitamins and filters (particularly solar), chelating agents and mixtures thereof.
  • the composition according to the invention is not rinsed.
  • the composition is a makeup composition and particularly a mascara.
  • the composition according to the invention comprises at least one pH agent.
  • the pH of the composition is fixed at between 2 and 8, and more particularly between 2.2 and 7 and even more particularly between 3 and 6.5.
  • the pH is adjusted by means of a strong base such as for example NaOH, or a weak base; or a strong or weak acid.
  • strong bases mention may be made in particular of low molecular weight amines such as ammonia, monoethanolamine, diethanolamine, 2- amino-methyl-propanol for example, or a salt thereof such as ammonium acetate.
  • the strong acid may for example be HCI, while the weak acid may in particular be a mono or poly carboxylic acid such as citric acid or lactic acid, for example.
  • composition according to the invention advantageously comprises a dry extract content greater than or equal to 40%, or preferably 42%, and particularly 45% or even 48%.
  • dry extract content means the content of non-volatile matter.
  • the quantity of dry extract of a composition according to the invention is measured using a commercial halogen dessicator "HALOGEN MOISTURE ANALYZER HR 73" from METTLER TOLEDO. The measurement is taken based on the loss of weight of a sample dried by halogen heating and therefore represents the percentage of residual material once the water and volatile materials have evaporated.
  • the measurement protocol is as follows:
  • the composition hereinafter the sample
  • a metal cup which is inserted into the halogen dessicator mentioned hereinabove.
  • the sample is then subjected to a temperature of 105°C until a constant weight is obtained.
  • the Wet Mass of the sample, corresponding to its initial mass, and the Dry Mass of the sample, corresponding to its mass after halogen heating, are measured using a precision balance.
  • the experimental error linked to the measurement is about plus or minus 2%.
  • the Dry Extract content is calculated in the following way:
  • Another purpose of this invention is a coating unit or kit for keratin fibers comprising:
  • composition applicator comprising means, possibly in relief, configured to engage with said keratin fibers such as the eyelashes or the eyebrows, so as to smooth and/or separate the eyelashes or the eyebrows.
  • Such relief may include teeth, bristles or other means.
  • Another purpose is a unit, or kit, for packaging and application of a composition for coating keratin fibers comprising: a packaging device comprising said cosmetic composition for coating keratin fibers such as described hereinabove, and an applicator of said composition.
  • An assembly for coating keratin fibers adapted to the invention can comprise in particular an applicator configured to apply said cosmetic composition for coating keratin fibers, and where applicable a device for packaging adapted to receive said composition.
  • the applicator may comprise means making it possible to smooth and/or separate the keratin fibers, such as the eyelashes or the eyebrows, in particular in the form of teeth, bristles or other relief.
  • the applicator can prevent running during application.
  • the applicator is arranged to apply the composition on the eyelashes or the eyebrows, and can comprise for example a brush or a comb.
  • the applicator can further be used for finishing of the makeup, on a region of the eyelashes or of the eyebrows with makeup or loaded with the composition.
  • the brush can comprise a twisted core and bristles caught between the turns of the core, or be made in another manner.
  • the comb is for example made of a single piece by molding of plastic material.
  • the application element is mounted at the end of a rod, which can be flexible, which can contribute to improving the comfort during application.
  • the packaging device may comprise a receptacle intended to house the composition for coating keratin fibers. This composition can then be drawn from the receptacle by immersing the applicator into the receptacle.
  • This applicator can be integral with an element for closing the receptacle.
  • This closing element can form a member for gripping the applicator.
  • This gripping member can form a cover to be mounted removably on said receptacle by any suitable means such as by screwing, snap-fitting, press-fitting or other.
  • Such a receptacle can therefore house said applicator in a reversible manner.
  • This receptacle may be provided with a wiping device suited to remove excess product drawn off by the applicator.
  • the applicator may form a product receptacle.
  • a receptacle may for example be provided in the gripping member and an internal channel can connect the inside of this gripping member to the application elements in relief.
  • the assembly for packaging and application can be in the form of a kit, with the applicator and the packaging device possibly being housed separately under the same packaging article.
  • This invention also has for object a method for coating with keratin fibers comprising the application on said keratin fibers of a composition according to the invention.
  • a method for applying the composition according to the invention on the eyelashes or on the eyebrows can also comprise the following steps:
  • compositions of control mascara i.e. compositions 29 to 33
  • compositions of mascara conforming with the invention i.e. compositions 49 to 53
  • compositions of control mascara i.e. compositions 29 to 33
  • Table 1 Each contains 10% of water.
  • compositions of mascara conforming with the invention i.e. compositions 49 to 53
  • Table 2 Each contains 10% of propylene carbonate (instead of 10% of water).
  • phase A A non-ionic lamellar phase is used for each composition. Its exact formulation is given in the following table: These compositions were prepared as follows: i. Preparation of phase A
  • Phase A is poured with phase B and emulsioning is done for 5 minutes at 95°C under Moritz. iv. i. Preparation of phase C
  • Phase D is poured into the mixture of phase A+B+C when the temperature of the mixture is less than or equal to 45°C. vi. End of formulation
  • the mascara thus obtained is transferred into a closed jar to prevent it from drying in contact with air, and it is then necessary to wait for 24h to check the homogeneity of the formula.
  • compositions 29 to 33, and 49 to 53 are applied in a standard manner (15 passes) using a mascara brush (Hypnose mascara from Lancome), dried with a dryer (Hypnose dryer from Lancome) on false eyelash test pieces composed of yack hair (since the porosity of the keratin fibers of yack hair is similar to the porosity of natural human keratin fibers such as the eyelash or the eyebrow).
  • the colored test pieces are put to dry after application. Once fully dry, makeup is removed from the test pieces in a standard manner by applying 10 makeup removal pads saturated with 1.5 ml of micellar makeup removal solution (mild makeup remover for the eyes from L’Oreal Paris).
  • “Durability” means remanence of the color (i.e. durability of the color) after makeup removal.
  • Composition L2 is prepared according to the following protocol:
  • Phase A The ingredients of Phase A are weighed and melted at 80°C, and water previously boiled in an electric kettle at 95°C. One all the ingredients are melted, emulsioning is done for 5 minutes at 95°C under Moritz. Then the sample is cooled down under mixing. Phase B is poured into the mixture when the bulk temperature is less than or equal to 35°C.
  • the nonionic surfactants in this nonionic lamellar phase are cetyl alcohol and PEG-100 stearate. Table 4
  • compositions are evaluated according to the same protocol as for example 1 .
  • “Durability” means remanence of the color (i.e. durability of the color) after makeup removal.
  • Example 3 comparison between a formula according to the invention (with direct acid colorant) and a comparative formula (with lacquer)

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Abstract

La présente invention concerne une composition, de préférence une composition cosmétique, en particulier pour le revêtement de fibres kératiniques, telles que des cils, comprenant : - une phase aqueuse, - une phase lamellaire Lβ formée par un système tensioactif structurant la phase aqueuse, ledit système tensioactif étant présent avec une teneur supérieure ou égale à 15 % en poids par rapport au poids total de la composition, et ledit système tensioactif comprenant au moins 5 % en poids par rapport au poids total de la composition d'un tensioactif non ionique ayant un équilibre hydrophile-lipophile à 25°C supérieur ou égal à 8, et au moins 5 % en poids par rapport au poids total de la composition d'un tensioactif non ionique ayant un équilibre hydrophile-lipophile à 25°C inférieur à 8, - au moins 3 % en poids du poids total de la composition d'un solvant hydrotrope choisi parmi les solvants de formule (I), et - au moins un colorant acide direct compatible avec une application autour des yeux, choisi parmi des colorants ayant un cœur d'anthraquinone, d'azine, azoïque, de polyméthine, de triarylméthane ou de xanthène, et des colorants comprenant au moins un groupe –NO2.
PCT/EP2020/074532 2019-09-03 2020-09-03 Composition cosmétique pour le revêtement de fibres kératiniques comprenant une phase lammellaire l-bêta, un carbonate cyclique et un colorant acide WO2021043864A1 (fr)

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