WO2017083943A1 - Procédé et compositions cosmétiques de nettoyage et de conditionnement des cheveux - Google Patents
Procédé et compositions cosmétiques de nettoyage et de conditionnement des cheveux Download PDFInfo
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- WO2017083943A1 WO2017083943A1 PCT/BR2015/050223 BR2015050223W WO2017083943A1 WO 2017083943 A1 WO2017083943 A1 WO 2017083943A1 BR 2015050223 W BR2015050223 W BR 2015050223W WO 2017083943 A1 WO2017083943 A1 WO 2017083943A1
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- WIPO (PCT)
- Prior art keywords
- weight
- composition
- hair
- surfactant
- alcohol
- Prior art date
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- 239000000203 mixture Substances 0.000 title claims abstract description 277
- 239000002537 cosmetic Substances 0.000 title claims abstract description 114
- 230000003750 conditioning effect Effects 0.000 title claims abstract description 26
- 238000000034 method Methods 0.000 title claims abstract description 19
- 230000008569 process Effects 0.000 title claims abstract description 16
- 239000003945 anionic surfactant Substances 0.000 claims abstract description 62
- 239000004094 surface-active agent Substances 0.000 claims abstract description 59
- 229920013822 aminosilicone Polymers 0.000 claims abstract description 39
- 239000002280 amphoteric surfactant Substances 0.000 claims abstract description 35
- 150000002191 fatty alcohols Chemical class 0.000 claims abstract description 31
- 239000003093 cationic surfactant Substances 0.000 claims abstract description 23
- 229920006317 cationic polymer Polymers 0.000 claims abstract description 21
- -1 amine salts Chemical class 0.000 claims description 90
- XLYOFNOQVPJJNP-UHFFFAOYSA-N water Substances O XLYOFNOQVPJJNP-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 64
- 125000004432 carbon atom Chemical group C* 0.000 claims description 49
- 125000000217 alkyl group Chemical group 0.000 claims description 43
- GLDOVTGHNKAZLK-UHFFFAOYSA-N octadecan-1-ol Chemical compound CCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCO GLDOVTGHNKAZLK-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 27
- 239000002453 shampoo Substances 0.000 claims description 24
- 150000002430 hydrocarbons Chemical class 0.000 claims description 23
- 229930195733 hydrocarbon Natural products 0.000 claims description 20
- 239000004215 Carbon black (E152) Substances 0.000 claims description 19
- 150000003839 salts Chemical class 0.000 claims description 18
- QAOWNCQODCNURD-UHFFFAOYSA-L sulfate group Chemical group S(=O)(=O)([O-])[O-] QAOWNCQODCNURD-UHFFFAOYSA-L 0.000 claims description 18
- BXWNKGSJHAJOGX-UHFFFAOYSA-N hexadecan-1-ol Chemical compound CCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCO BXWNKGSJHAJOGX-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 16
- 239000003921 oil Substances 0.000 claims description 16
- 239000002480 mineral oil Substances 0.000 claims description 12
- 235000010446 mineral oil Nutrition 0.000 claims description 12
- 229920006395 saturated elastomer Polymers 0.000 claims description 12
- 229940057950 sodium laureth sulfate Drugs 0.000 claims description 12
- SXHLENDCVBIJFO-UHFFFAOYSA-M sodium;2-[2-(2-dodecoxyethoxy)ethoxy]ethyl sulfate Chemical compound [Na+].CCCCCCCCCCCCOCCOCCOCCOS([O-])(=O)=O SXHLENDCVBIJFO-UHFFFAOYSA-M 0.000 claims description 12
- DBMJMQXJHONAFJ-UHFFFAOYSA-M Sodium laurylsulphate Chemical compound [Na+].CCCCCCCCCCCCOS([O-])(=O)=O DBMJMQXJHONAFJ-UHFFFAOYSA-M 0.000 claims description 11
- 229940081733 cetearyl alcohol Drugs 0.000 claims description 11
- RTZKZFJDLAIYFH-UHFFFAOYSA-N ether Substances CCOCC RTZKZFJDLAIYFH-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 11
- 235000019333 sodium laurylsulphate Nutrition 0.000 claims description 11
- 239000010773 plant oil Substances 0.000 claims description 10
- 150000007942 carboxylates Chemical class 0.000 claims description 9
- 229920000435 poly(dimethylsiloxane) Polymers 0.000 claims description 9
- 150000003626 triacylglycerols Chemical group 0.000 claims description 9
- 229960000541 cetyl alcohol Drugs 0.000 claims description 8
- WOWHHFRSBJGXCM-UHFFFAOYSA-M cetyltrimethylammonium chloride Chemical compound [Cl-].CCCCCCCCCCCCCCCC[N+](C)(C)C WOWHHFRSBJGXCM-UHFFFAOYSA-M 0.000 claims description 8
- GOQYKNQRPGWPLP-UHFFFAOYSA-N n-heptadecyl alcohol Natural products CCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCO GOQYKNQRPGWPLP-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 8
- FSYKKLYZXJSNPZ-UHFFFAOYSA-N sarcosine Chemical compound C[NH2+]CC([O-])=O FSYKKLYZXJSNPZ-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 8
- BDHFUVZGWQCTTF-UHFFFAOYSA-M sulfonate Chemical compound [O-]S(=O)=O BDHFUVZGWQCTTF-UHFFFAOYSA-M 0.000 claims description 8
- OYINQIKIQCNQOX-UHFFFAOYSA-M 2-hydroxybutyl(trimethyl)azanium;chloride Chemical compound [Cl-].CCC(O)C[N+](C)(C)C OYINQIKIQCNQOX-UHFFFAOYSA-M 0.000 claims description 7
- 244000007835 Cyamopsis tetragonoloba Species 0.000 claims description 7
- YSJGOMATDFSEED-UHFFFAOYSA-M behentrimonium chloride Chemical compound [Cl-].CCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCC[N+](C)(C)C YSJGOMATDFSEED-UHFFFAOYSA-M 0.000 claims description 7
- WNWHHMBRJJOGFJ-UHFFFAOYSA-N 16-methylheptadecan-1-ol Chemical compound CC(C)CCCCCCCCCCCCCCCO WNWHHMBRJJOGFJ-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 6
- 229960002788 cetrimonium chloride Drugs 0.000 claims description 6
- MRUAUOIMASANKQ-UHFFFAOYSA-N cocamidopropyl betaine Chemical compound CCCCCCCCCCCC(=O)NCCC[N+](C)(C)CC([O-])=O MRUAUOIMASANKQ-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 6
- 229940073507 cocamidopropyl betaine Drugs 0.000 claims description 6
- 229940075506 behentrimonium chloride Drugs 0.000 claims description 5
- 229940047648 cocoamphodiacetate Drugs 0.000 claims description 5
- 229940012831 stearyl alcohol Drugs 0.000 claims description 5
- 229940096362 cocoamphoacetate Drugs 0.000 claims description 4
- 125000001117 oleyl group Chemical group [H]C([*])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])/C([H])=C([H])\C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])[H] 0.000 claims description 4
- 150000003242 quaternary ammonium salts Chemical class 0.000 claims description 4
- HLZKNKRTKFSKGZ-UHFFFAOYSA-N tetradecan-1-ol Chemical compound CCCCCCCCCCCCCCO HLZKNKRTKFSKGZ-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 4
- ALSTYHKOOCGGFT-KTKRTIGZSA-N (9Z)-octadecen-1-ol Chemical compound CCCCCCCC\C=C/CCCCCCCCO ALSTYHKOOCGGFT-KTKRTIGZSA-N 0.000 claims description 3
- JXNPEDYJTDQORS-HZJYTTRNSA-N (9Z,12Z)-octadecadien-1-ol Chemical compound CCCCC\C=C/C\C=C/CCCCCCCCO JXNPEDYJTDQORS-HZJYTTRNSA-N 0.000 claims description 3
- IKYKEVDKGZYRMQ-PDBXOOCHSA-N (9Z,12Z,15Z)-octadecatrien-1-ol Chemical compound CC\C=C/C\C=C/C\C=C/CCCCCCCCO IKYKEVDKGZYRMQ-PDBXOOCHSA-N 0.000 claims description 3
- GIEMHYCMBGELGY-UHFFFAOYSA-N 10-undecen-1-ol Chemical compound OCCCCCCCCCC=C GIEMHYCMBGELGY-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 3
- XULHFMYCBKQGEE-UHFFFAOYSA-N 2-hexyl-1-Decanol Chemical compound CCCCCCCCC(CO)CCCCCC XULHFMYCBKQGEE-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 3
- LEACJMVNYZDSKR-UHFFFAOYSA-N 2-octyldodecan-1-ol Chemical compound CCCCCCCCCCC(CO)CCCCCCCC LEACJMVNYZDSKR-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 3
- BTFJIXJJCSYFAL-UHFFFAOYSA-N arachidyl alcohol Natural products CCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCO BTFJIXJJCSYFAL-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 3
- ALSTYHKOOCGGFT-UHFFFAOYSA-N cis-oleyl alcohol Natural products CCCCCCCCC=CCCCCCCCCO ALSTYHKOOCGGFT-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 3
- UVNRLSCOYBEJTM-UHFFFAOYSA-N linolenic alcohol Natural products CCCCCCCCC=C/CC=C/CC=C/CCO UVNRLSCOYBEJTM-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 3
- 125000005644 linolenyl group Chemical group 0.000 claims description 3
- JXNPEDYJTDQORS-UHFFFAOYSA-N linoleyl alcohol Natural products CCCCCC=CCC=CCCCCCCCCO JXNPEDYJTDQORS-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 3
- 239000004166 Lanolin Substances 0.000 claims description 2
- 239000004359 castor oil Substances 0.000 claims description 2
- LQZZUXJYWNFBMV-UHFFFAOYSA-N dodecan-1-ol Chemical compound CCCCCCCCCCCCO LQZZUXJYWNFBMV-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 2
- 229940039717 lanolin Drugs 0.000 claims description 2
- 235000019388 lanolin Nutrition 0.000 claims description 2
- 229940043348 myristyl alcohol Drugs 0.000 claims description 2
- 150000001298 alcohols Chemical class 0.000 claims 1
- 238000004806 packaging method and process Methods 0.000 claims 1
- 239000000835 fiber Substances 0.000 abstract description 18
- 150000001875 compounds Chemical class 0.000 description 29
- 229920001296 polysiloxane Polymers 0.000 description 24
- 150000003254 radicals Chemical class 0.000 description 18
- 125000004435 hydrogen atom Chemical group [H]* 0.000 description 16
- 125000002496 methyl group Chemical group [H]C([H])([H])* 0.000 description 13
- 235000019198 oils Nutrition 0.000 description 12
- IAYPIBMASNFSPL-UHFFFAOYSA-N Ethylene oxide Chemical group C1CO1 IAYPIBMASNFSPL-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 11
- 150000001450 anions Chemical class 0.000 description 10
- QGZKDVFQNNGYKY-UHFFFAOYSA-O Ammonium Chemical compound [NH4+] QGZKDVFQNNGYKY-UHFFFAOYSA-O 0.000 description 9
- 229910052784 alkaline earth metal Inorganic materials 0.000 description 9
- 125000003118 aryl group Chemical group 0.000 description 9
- 230000000052 comparative effect Effects 0.000 description 9
- 229910052708 sodium Inorganic materials 0.000 description 9
- OSCJHTSDLYVCQC-UHFFFAOYSA-N 2-ethylhexyl 4-[[4-[4-(tert-butylcarbamoyl)anilino]-6-[4-(2-ethylhexoxycarbonyl)anilino]-1,3,5-triazin-2-yl]amino]benzoate Chemical compound C1=CC(C(=O)OCC(CC)CCCC)=CC=C1NC1=NC(NC=2C=CC(=CC=2)C(=O)NC(C)(C)C)=NC(NC=2C=CC(=CC=2)C(=O)OCC(CC)CCCC)=N1 OSCJHTSDLYVCQC-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 8
- VEXZGXHMUGYJMC-UHFFFAOYSA-M Chloride anion Chemical compound [Cl-] VEXZGXHMUGYJMC-UHFFFAOYSA-M 0.000 description 8
- 125000003342 alkenyl group Chemical group 0.000 description 8
- 125000002091 cationic group Chemical group 0.000 description 8
- 239000003205 fragrance Substances 0.000 description 8
- 239000002253 acid Substances 0.000 description 7
- 229910052783 alkali metal Inorganic materials 0.000 description 7
- 125000000129 anionic group Chemical group 0.000 description 7
- 239000003795 chemical substances by application Substances 0.000 description 7
- 239000000839 emulsion Substances 0.000 description 7
- 125000001997 phenyl group Chemical group [H]C1=C([H])C([H])=C(*)C([H])=C1[H] 0.000 description 7
- 239000011734 sodium Substances 0.000 description 7
- 150000001340 alkali metals Chemical class 0.000 description 6
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- 125000003368 amide group Chemical group 0.000 description 6
- 150000004820 halides Chemical class 0.000 description 6
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- 150000008055 alkyl aryl sulfonates Chemical class 0.000 description 5
- 150000008051 alkyl sulfates Chemical class 0.000 description 5
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- 150000001412 amines Chemical class 0.000 description 5
- 125000003178 carboxy group Chemical group [H]OC(*)=O 0.000 description 5
- 150000002148 esters Chemical group 0.000 description 5
- 229910052739 hydrogen Inorganic materials 0.000 description 5
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- 239000003021 water soluble solvent Substances 0.000 description 5
- SVTBMSDMJJWYQN-UHFFFAOYSA-N 2-methylpentane-2,4-diol Chemical compound CC(O)CC(C)(C)O SVTBMSDMJJWYQN-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 4
- UFHFLCQGNIYNRP-UHFFFAOYSA-N Hydrogen Chemical compound [H][H] UFHFLCQGNIYNRP-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 4
- DGAQECJNVWCQMB-PUAWFVPOSA-M Ilexoside XXIX Chemical compound C[C@@H]1CC[C@@]2(CC[C@@]3(C(=CC[C@H]4[C@]3(CC[C@@H]5[C@@]4(CC[C@@H](C5(C)C)OS(=O)(=O)[O-])C)C)[C@@H]2[C@]1(C)O)C)C(=O)O[C@H]6[C@@H]([C@H]([C@@H]([C@H](O6)CO)O)O)O.[Na+] DGAQECJNVWCQMB-PUAWFVPOSA-M 0.000 description 4
- 241000282372 Panthera onca Species 0.000 description 4
- 229910006069 SO3H Inorganic materials 0.000 description 4
- GSEJCLTVZPLZKY-UHFFFAOYSA-N Triethanolamine Chemical group OCCN(CCO)CCO GSEJCLTVZPLZKY-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 4
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- 229940045714 alkyl sulfonate alkylating agent Drugs 0.000 description 4
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- 125000001797 benzyl group Chemical group [H]C1=C([H])C([H])=C(C([H])=C1[H])C([H])([H])* 0.000 description 4
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- 230000003745 detangling effect Effects 0.000 description 4
- 125000001495 ethyl group Chemical group [H]C([H])([H])C([H])([H])* 0.000 description 4
- 125000002887 hydroxy group Chemical group [H]O* 0.000 description 4
- 150000002500 ions Chemical class 0.000 description 4
- 239000002075 main ingredient Substances 0.000 description 4
- 125000001453 quaternary ammonium group Chemical group 0.000 description 4
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- QLAJNZSPVITUCQ-UHFFFAOYSA-N 1,3,2-dioxathietane 2,2-dioxide Chemical compound O=S1(=O)OCO1 QLAJNZSPVITUCQ-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 3
- OVSKIKFHRZPJSS-UHFFFAOYSA-N 2,4-D Chemical compound OC(=O)COC1=CC=C(Cl)C=C1Cl OVSKIKFHRZPJSS-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 3
- HZAXFHJVJLSVMW-UHFFFAOYSA-N 2-Aminoethan-1-ol Chemical compound NCCO HZAXFHJVJLSVMW-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 3
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- 229940106189 ceramide Drugs 0.000 description 3
- KRKNYBCHXYNGOX-UHFFFAOYSA-N citric acid Chemical compound OC(=O)CC(O)(C(O)=O)CC(O)=O KRKNYBCHXYNGOX-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 3
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- UCYFZDNMZYZSPN-UHFFFAOYSA-N docosyl(trimethyl)azanium Chemical compound CCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCC[N+](C)(C)C UCYFZDNMZYZSPN-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 3
- 239000012530 fluid Substances 0.000 description 3
- 125000005842 heteroatom Chemical group 0.000 description 3
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- 125000001421 myristyl group Chemical group [H]C([*])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])[H] 0.000 description 3
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- 125000004079 stearyl group Chemical group [H]C([*])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])[H] 0.000 description 3
- 239000000126 substance Substances 0.000 description 3
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- MJJJJEUEZVGFLW-UHFFFAOYSA-N 2-dodecyl-2-sulfobutanedioic acid Chemical class CCCCCCCCCCCCC(S(O)(=O)=O)(C(O)=O)CC(O)=O MJJJJEUEZVGFLW-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 2
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- CBTVGIZVANVGBH-UHFFFAOYSA-N aminomethyl propanol Chemical class CC(C)(N)CO CBTVGIZVANVGBH-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 2
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- RLGQACBPNDBWTB-UHFFFAOYSA-N cetyltrimethylammonium ion Chemical compound CCCCCCCCCCCCCCCC[N+](C)(C)C RLGQACBPNDBWTB-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 2
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- 125000003438 dodecyl group Chemical group [H]C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])* 0.000 description 2
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- 125000003396 thiol group Chemical group [H]S* 0.000 description 1
- DHCDFWKWKRSZHF-UHFFFAOYSA-L thiosulfate(2-) Chemical group [O-]S([S-])(=O)=O DHCDFWKWKRSZHF-UHFFFAOYSA-L 0.000 description 1
- JOXIMZWYDAKGHI-UHFFFAOYSA-M toluene-4-sulfonate Chemical compound CC1=CC=C(S([O-])(=O)=O)C=C1 JOXIMZWYDAKGHI-UHFFFAOYSA-M 0.000 description 1
- 239000011573 trace mineral Substances 0.000 description 1
- 235000013619 trace mineral Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- 238000005809 transesterification reaction Methods 0.000 description 1
- 238000011269 treatment regimen Methods 0.000 description 1
- 125000005208 trialkylammonium group Chemical group 0.000 description 1
- 125000003258 trimethylene group Chemical group [H]C([H])([*:2])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])[*:1] 0.000 description 1
- 125000002948 undecyl group Chemical group [H]C([*])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])[H] 0.000 description 1
- 235000015112 vegetable and seed oil Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- 230000000007 visual effect Effects 0.000 description 1
- 239000011782 vitamin Substances 0.000 description 1
- 235000013343 vitamin Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- 229940088594 vitamin Drugs 0.000 description 1
- 229930003231 vitamin Natural products 0.000 description 1
- 238000005406 washing Methods 0.000 description 1
- 239000001993 wax Substances 0.000 description 1
- 239000010497 wheat germ oil Substances 0.000 description 1
- 239000011701 zinc Substances 0.000 description 1
- 229910052725 zinc Inorganic materials 0.000 description 1
Classifications
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
- A61Q5/00—Preparations for care of the hair
- A61Q5/02—Preparations for cleaning the hair
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
- A61K8/31—Hydrocarbons
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
- A61K8/33—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
- A61K8/34—Alcohols
- A61K8/342—Alcohols having more than seven atoms in an unbroken chain
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
- A61K8/40—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing nitrogen
- A61K8/41—Amines
- A61K8/416—Quaternary ammonium compounds
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
- A61K8/40—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing nitrogen
- A61K8/44—Aminocarboxylic acids or derivatives thereof, e.g. aminocarboxylic acids containing sulfur; Salts; Esters or N-acylated derivatives thereof
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
- A61K8/40—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing nitrogen
- A61K8/44—Aminocarboxylic acids or derivatives thereof, e.g. aminocarboxylic acids containing sulfur; Salts; Esters or N-acylated derivatives thereof
- A61K8/442—Aminocarboxylic acids or derivatives thereof, e.g. aminocarboxylic acids containing sulfur; Salts; Esters or N-acylated derivatives thereof substituted by amido group(s)
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
- A61K8/73—Polysaccharides
- A61K8/737—Galactomannans, e.g. guar; Derivatives thereof
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
- A61K8/84—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions otherwise than those involving only carbon-carbon unsaturated bonds
- A61K8/89—Polysiloxanes
- A61K8/896—Polysiloxanes containing atoms other than silicon, carbon, oxygen and hydrogen, e.g. dimethicone copolyol phosphate
- A61K8/898—Polysiloxanes containing atoms other than silicon, carbon, oxygen and hydrogen, e.g. dimethicone copolyol phosphate containing nitrogen, e.g. amodimethicone, trimethyl silyl amodimethicone or dimethicone propyl PG-betaine
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
- A61Q5/00—Preparations for care of the hair
- A61Q5/12—Preparations containing hair conditioners
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K2800/00—Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
- A61K2800/40—Chemical, physico-chemical or functional or structural properties of particular ingredients
- A61K2800/54—Polymers characterized by specific structures/properties
- A61K2800/542—Polymers characterized by specific structures/properties characterized by the charge
- A61K2800/5426—Polymers characterized by specific structures/properties characterized by the charge cationic
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K2800/00—Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
- A61K2800/40—Chemical, physico-chemical or functional or structural properties of particular ingredients
- A61K2800/59—Mixtures
- A61K2800/596—Mixtures of surface active compounds
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K2800/00—Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
- A61K2800/80—Process related aspects concerning the preparation of the cosmetic composition or the storage or application thereof
- A61K2800/88—Two- or multipart kits
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K2800/00—Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
- A61K2800/80—Process related aspects concerning the preparation of the cosmetic composition or the storage or application thereof
- A61K2800/88—Two- or multipart kits
- A61K2800/884—Sequential application
Definitions
- the present invention relates to a process and multi-component hair cosmetic agent for cleansing and conditioning hair fibers, the hair cosmetic agent comprising (a) a first cosmetic composition comprising a surfactant mixture; an amino silicone; and a cationic polymer; and (b) a second cosmetic composition comprising a fatty alcohol; a cationic surfactant; and an oily component.
- the hair cosmetic agent and compositions of the hair cosmetic agent impart cleansing and conditioning properties to hair fibers.
- the invention also concerns a process for cleansing and conditioning hair fibers and a use for hair care employing the first and second cosmetic compositions.
- the quality and condition of hair is generally adversely affected by the action of external agents such as sunlight, wind, and humidity, and also by mechanical or chemical treatments, such as brushing, combing, shampooing, dyeing, bleaching, permanent-waving and/or relaxing. Hair is thus damaged by these various factors and may over time become dry, coarse or dull, especially in fragile areas, and more particularly at the ends leading to split ends.
- cleansing compositions typically contain anionic surfactants.
- Anionic surfactants such as sodium lauryl sulfate have detergent properties and are highly effective at removing dirt and oil.
- anionic surfactants raise the cuticle of the hair for deep cleansing, but raised, rough cuticles also lead to frizziness of the hair.
- consumers generally find that products containing anionic surfactants can be too drying and damaging on frequent use, and, as a result, choose mild cleansing compositions which have low levels of anionic surfactants.
- Applicants have surprisingly found that their multi-component hair cosmetic agent for cleansing and conditioning hair fibers comprising (a) a first cosmetic composition comprising a surfactant mixture containing anionic and amphoteric surfactants; an amino silicone; and a cationic polymer; wherein the total amount of surfactants in the surfactant mixture ranges from about 7% to about 1 1 .4% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition; and wherein the weight ratio of the anionic surfactant to the amphoteric surfactant is greater than 3; and(b) a second cosmetic composition comprising a fatty alcohol; a cationic surfactant; and an oily component effectively cleans the hair and at the same time, provides conditioning and hydrating properties, detangling, and curl definition without leaving the hair frizzy, flat, or feeling greasy.
- the present invention is directed to a multi-component hair cosmetic agent for cleansing and conditioning hair fibers, the hair cosmetic agent comprising:
- a surfactant mixture comprising at least one anionic surfactant and at least one amphoteric surfactant
- the total amount of surfactants in the surfactant mixture of the first composition ranges from about 7% to about 1 1 .4% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition;
- weight ratio of the anionic surfactant to the amphoteric surfactant is greater than 3, and preferably ranges from about 3.5 to about 4.5;and b) a second cosmetic composition containing:
- the first cosmetic composition in accordance with the invention may be used for cleansing hair fibers, for example as hair cleansers or shampoos.
- the second cosmetic composition in accordance with the invention may be used for conditioning hair fibers, for example, as hair conditioners or post-cleansing compositions or post-coloration or post-relaxing/straightening compositions.
- the present invention is also directed to processes for application to the hair of the above-described first and second compositions.
- compositions provide effectively cleansing of the hair and provide conditioning and hydrating properties, detangling, and curl definition without leaving the hair frizzy, flat, or feeling greasy.
- At least one means one or more and thus includes individual components as well as mixtures/combinations.
- Constant means imparting to one or more hair fibers at least one property chosen from combability, manageability, moisture- retentivity, luster, shine, volume control, discipline, and softness.
- the state of conditioning can be evaluated by any means known in the art, such as, for example, measuring, and comparing, the ease of combability of the treated hair and of the untreated hair in terms of combing work (gm-in), and consumer perception.
- Transformed hair as used herein means hair that has undergone chemical or physical treatment to straighten or curl the hair.
- Substituted means comprising one or more substituents.
- substituents include atoms, such as oxygen atoms and nitrogen atoms, as well as functional groups, such as hydroxyl groups, ether groups, alkoxy groups, acyloxyalkyl groups, oxyalkylene groups, polyoxyalkylene groups, carboxylic acid groups, amine groups, acylamino groups, amide groups, halogen containing groups, ester groups, thiol groups, sulphonate groups, thiosulphate groups, siloxane groups, and polysiloxane groups.
- the substituent(s) may be further substituted.
- Polymers include homopolymers and copolymers formed from at least two different types of monomers.
- INCI is an abbreviation of International Nomenclature of Cosmetic Ingredients, which is a system of names provided by the International Nomenclature Committee of the Personal Care Products Council to describe personal care ingredients.
- compositions and methods of the present invention can comprise, consist of, or consist essentially of the essential elements and limitations of the invention described herein, as well as any additional or optional ingredients, components, or limitations described herein or otherwise useful.
- ranges provided are meant to include every specific range within, and combination of sub ranges between, the given ranges.
- a range from 1 -5 includes specifically 1 , 2, 3, 4 and 5, as well as sub ranges such as 2-5, 3-5, 2-3, 2-4, 1 -4, etc.
- a range of ratios is meant to include every specific ratio within, and combination of sub ranges between.
- first cosmetic composition may also be called “first composition.”
- second cosmetic composition may also be called “second composition.”
- multi-component means having two or more components, such as three components or four components.
- Component as used herein refers to a part or a composition or a unit.
- the present invention is directed to a multi- component hair cosmetic agent for cleansing and conditioning hair, the hair cosmetic agent comprising:
- a) a first cosmetic composition comprising:
- a surfactant mixture comprising at least one anionic surfactant selected from sulfate surfactants, preferably from sodium laureth sulfate, sodium lauryl sulfate, and mixtures thereof, and at least one amphoteric surfactant selected from (C8-C20)alkyl betaines, preferably from coco betaine, cocamidopropylbetaine, cocoamphoacetate, cocoamphodiacetate, and their salts, and mixtures thereof;
- iii) from about 0.2% to about 0.46% by weight of at least one cationic polymer, preferably selected from guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride;
- a second cosmetic composition comprising: i) from about 5% to about 6% by weight of at least one fatty alcohol, preferably selected from cetearyl alcohol;
- ii) from about 1 .63% to about 1 .8% by weight of at least one cationic surfactant selected from quaternary ammonium salts, preferably from cetrimonium chloride, behentrimonium chloride, and mixtures thereof;
- iii) from about 1 .27% to about 1 .63% by weight of least one oily component selected from mineral oil, triglycerides, plant oils, hydrocarbon oils, and mixtures thereof; and preferably selected from mineral oil; and
- a multi-component hair cosmetic agent for cleansing and conditioning hair fibers comprising (a) a first cosmetic composition comprising a surfactant mixture containing anionic and amphoteric surfactants, an amino silicone, and a cationic polymer and (b) a second cosmetic composition comprising a fatty alcohol, a cationic surfactant, and an oily component effectively cleans hair and at the same time, provides conditioning and hydrating properties, detangling, and curl definition without leaving the hair frizzy, flat, or feeling greasy. Both first and second cosmetic compositions spreadwell on the hair and rinsed out easily and quickly.
- Applicants have also surprisingly and unexpectedly found that, (i) even at lower concentrations of the total amount of anionic surfactants and amphoteric surfactants in the surfactant mixture of the first cosmetic composition as compared to traditional surfactant-based systems, said composition provided a creamy foam to the hair, allowed the fingers to slide easily through the hair while rinsing, and imparted a fast transformation, sensation of long lasting cleanliness, and hair movement.
- compositions have a soft, creamy texture that feels pleasant and are easy to apply to the hair.
- the use of lower concentrations of the fatty alcohol, cationic surfactant and oily component in the second composition as compared to traditional/commercial conditioning compositions has the advantages of lower costs of production and sustainability measures while still resulting in a composition that provides satisfactory.
- the first cosmetic composition and the second cosmetic composition were used in a hair treatment regimen, resulting in a multi-component hair cosmetic agent, said agent gave the hair a sensation of long lasting cleanliness, softness, sleekness and suppleness while affording a natural, healthy feel to sensitized or damaged or embrittled hair.
- the hair cosmetic agent and compositions according to the invention are particularly suitable for use on all types of hair such as curly, sensitized, straight, or colored/dyed/relaxed hair, and enables shiny and supple curls to be obtained.
- Another subject of the present invention is a process for cleansing and conditioning hair fibers, such as the hair, which comprises applying the first and second cosmetic compositions as described above in a sequential manner on the hair in amounts effective to cleanse and condition the hair.
- the application of the first cosmetic composition on the hair is followed by a rinsing of the hair with water before the application of the second cosmetic composition onto the hair.
- the compositions according to the invention improve the cosmetic properties of hair fibers, in particular human hair fibers such as the hair, for example, in terms of softness, smoothness and/or suppleness while at same time giving the hair a natural look and feeling.
- the present invention also relates to a process for treating the hair, comprising the application to the fibers of the composition according to the invention.
- the present invention relates to the use of the multi-component hair cosmetic agent according to the invention as a hair cleanser/shampoo and conditioner.
- the present invention relates to the use of the first cosmetic composition according to the invention as a hair cleanser/shampoo by itself.
- the present invention also relates to the use of the first cosmetic composition according to the invention as a hair cleanser/shampoo by itself.
- compositions described above may be used on any type of hair, for example, light or dark hair, straight or curly, natural hair, or hair that has undergone a cosmetic treatment such as permanent waving, dyeing, bleaching or relaxing.
- composition of the present invention is applied on curly, sensitized, embrittled, and/or damaged hair.
- the application to the hair of the composition according to the invention may be performed, for example, using a comb, a fine brush, a coarse brush or with the fingers.
- the invention also relates to a process for making the first cosmetic composition according to the invention, comprising combining a surfactant mixture containing anionic and amphoteric surfactants, an amino silicone, and a cationic polymer.
- the invention also relates to a process for making the second cosmetic composition according to the invention, comprising combining a fatty alcohol, a cationic surfactant, and an oily component.
- the surfactant mixture of the present invention comprises anionic surfactants and amphoteric surfactants.
- the surfactant mixture is present in the first compositions of the invention in a total amount of from about 7% to about 1 1 .4% by weight, such as from about 8% to about 1 1 .4% by weight, or preferably, from about 9% to about 1 1 .2% by weight, or more preferably, from about 9% to about 1 1 % by weight, relative to the total weight of the first composition, including all ranges and sub ranges therebetween.
- the total amount of the surfactant mixture is at about 7%, or at about 7.5%, or at about 8%, or at about 8.5%, or at about9%, or about 9.1 74%, or about 9.25%, or about 9.5%, or about 9.75%, or about 1 0%, or about 10.1 9%, or about 1 0.25%, or about 10.5%, or about 10.75%, or about 1 1 %, or about 1 1 .1 %, or about 1 1 .2%, or about 1 1 .3%, or about 1 1 .35%, or about 1 1 .4%, relative to the total weight of the first composition.
- the at least one anionic surfactant of the present invention may be chosen from sulfate surfactants, sulfonate surfactants, carboxylic (or carboxylate) surfactants, and mixtures thereof.
- anionic surfactant means a surfactant comprising, as ionic or ionizable groups, only anionic groups.
- a species is termed as being "anionic" when it bears at least one permanent negative charge or when it can be ionized as a negatively charged species, under the conditions of use of the composition of the invention (for example the medium or the pH) and not comprising any cationic charge.
- - carboxylate anionic surfactants comprise at least one carboxylic or carboxylate function (-COOH or -COO-) and may optionally also comprise one or more sulfate and/or sulfonate functions;
- the sulfonate anionic surfactants comprise at least one sulfonate function (-SO 3 H or -SO 3 -) and may optionally also comprise one or more sulfate functions, but do not comprise any carboxylate functions; and
- the sulfate anionic surfactants comprise at least one sulfate function but do not comprise any carboxylate or sulfonate functions.
- the carboxylic anionic surfactants that may be used thus comprise at least one carboxylic or carboxylate function (-COOH or -COO-).
- acylglycinates acyllactylates, acylsarcosinates, acylglutamates
- alkyl-D- galactosideuronic acids alkyl ether carboxylic acids, alkyl(C6-3o aryl) ether carboxylic acids, alkylamido ether carboxylic acids; and also the salts of these compounds;
- alkyl and/or acyl groups of these compounds comprising from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, especially from 1 2 to 28, better still from 14 to 24 or even from 1 6 to 22 carbon atoms;
- the aryl group preferably denoting a phenyl or benzyl group;
- these compounds possibly being polyoxyalkylenated, especially polyoxyethylenated, and then preferably comprising from 1 to 50 ethylene oxide units and better still from 2 to 1 0 ethylene oxide units.
- C -C,2A alkyl monoesters of polyglycoside- polycarboxylic acids such as C -C,2A alkyl polyglycoside-citrates, C -C,2A alkyl polyglycoside-tartrates and C 6 -C 24 alkyl polyglycoside-sulfosuccinates, and salts thereof.
- carboxylic surfactants mention may be made most particularly of polyoxyalkylenated alkyl(amido) ether carboxylic acids and salts thereof, in particular those comprising from 2 to 50 alkylene oxide and in particular ethylene oxide groups, such as the compounds sold by the company Kao under the name Akypo.
- polyoxyalkylenated alkyl (amido) ether carboxylic acids that may be used are preferably chosen from those of formula (1 ):
- Ri represents a linear or branched C -C,2A alkyl or alkenyl radical, an alkyl(C8-C9)phenyl radical, a radical R 2 CONH-CH 2 -CH 2 - with R 2 denoting a linear or branched C9-C 21 alkyl or alkenyl radical,
- Ri is a C8-C20 and preferably Cs-C-is alkyl radical, and aryl preferably denotes phenyl,
- - n is an integer or decimal number (average value) ranging from 2 to
- - A denotes H, ammonium, Na, K, Li, Mg or a monoethanolamine or triethanola-mine residue.
- polyoxyalkylenatedalkyl(amido) ether carboxylic acids that are particularly preferred are those of formula (1 ) in which:
- R1 denotes a C12-C14 alkyl, cocoyl, oleyl, nonylphenyl or octylphenyl radical
- - A denotes a hydrogen or sodium atom
- - n varies from 2 to 20 and preferably from 2 to 1 0.
- R denotes a C12 alkyl radical
- A denotes a hydrogen or sodium atom
- n ranges from 2 to 10.
- carboxylic anionic surfactants are chosen, alone or as a mixture, from:
- - acylglutamates especially of C6-C24 or even C12-C20, such as stearoylgluta-mates, and in particular disodium stearoylglutamate;
- acylsarcosinates especially of C 6 -C 2 4 or even C12-C20, such as palmitoylsar-cosinates, and in particular sodium palmitoylsarcosinate;
- acyllactylates especially of C12-C28 or even C14-C24, such as behenoyllac-tylates, and in particular sodium behenoyllactylate;
- alkali metal or alkaline-earth metal, ammonium or amino alcohol salts in particular in the form of alkali metal or alkaline-earth metal, ammonium or amino alcohol salts.
- the sulfonate anionic surfactants that may be used comprise at least one sulfonate function (-SO 3 H or -SO 3 -).
- alkylsulfonates alkyla-midesulfonates, alkylarylsulfonates, a- olefinsulfonates, paraffin sulfonates, alkyl-sulfosuccinates, alkyl ether sulfosuccinates, alkylamidesulfosuccinates, alkyl-sulfoacetates, N-acyltaurates, acylisethionates; alkylsulfolaurates; and also the salts of these compounds;
- alkyl groups of these compounds comprising from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, especially from 1 2 to 28, better still from 14 to 24 or even from 16 to 22 carbon atoms;
- the aryl group preferably denoting a phenyl or benzyl group;
- these compounds possibly being polyoxyalkylenated, especially polyoxyethylenated, and then preferably comprising from 1 to 50 ethylene oxide units and better still from 2 to 1 0 ethylene oxide units.
- the sulfonate anionic surfactants are chosen, alone or as a mixture, from:
- the sulfate anionic surfactants that may be used comprise at least one sulfate function (-OSO 3 H or -OSO 3 -).
- alkyl sulfates alkyl sulfates, alkyl ether sulfates, alkylamido ether sulfates, alkylaryl polyether sulfates, monoglyceride sulfates; and also the salts of these compounds;
- alkyl groups of these compounds comprising from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, especially from 1 2 to 28, better still from 14 to 24 or even from 16 to 22 carbon atoms;
- the aryl group preferably denoting a phenyl or benzyl group;
- these compounds possibly being polyoxyalkylenated, especially polyoxyethylenated, and then preferably comprising from 1 to 50 ethylene oxide units and better still from 2 to 1 0 ethylene oxide units.
- the sulfate anionic surfactants are chosen, alone or as a mixture, from:
- alkyl ether sulfates especially of C 6 -C 24 or even C-12-C20, preferably comprising from 2 to 20 ethylene oxide units;
- alkali metal or alkaline-earth metal, ammonium or amino alcohol salts in particular in the form of alkali metal or alkaline-earth metal, ammonium or amino alcohol salts.
- the said salt may be chosen from alkali metal salts, such as the sodium or potassium salt, ammonium salts, amine salts and in particular amino alcohol salts, and alkaline-earth metal salts, such as the magnesium salt.
- alkali metal salts such as the sodium or potassium salt
- ammonium salts such as the sodium or potassium salt
- amine salts and in particular amino alcohol salts such as the magnesium salt.
- alkaline-earth metal salts such as the magnesium salt.
- alkaline-earth metal salts such as the magnesium salt.
- amino alcohol salts that may be mentioned include monoethanolamine, diethanolamine and triethanolamine salts, monoisopropanolamine, diisopropanolamine or triisopropanolamine salts, 2-amino-2- methyl-1 -propanol salts, 2-amino-2-methyl-1 ,3-propanediol salts and tris(hydroxymethyl)aminomethane salts.
- Alkali metal or alkaline-earth metal salts and in particular the sodium or magnesium salts are preferably used.
- the anionic surfactants are chosen, alone or as a mixture, from:
- C12-C20 alkyl ether sulfates preferably comprising from 2 to 20 ethylene oxide units
- alkali metal or alkaline-earth metal, ammonium or amino alcohol salts in particular in the form of alkali metal or alkaline-earth metal, ammonium or amino alcohol salts.
- the at least one anionic surfactant of the present invention is chosen from sulfate surfactants.
- the at least one anionic surfactant of the present invention is preferably chosen from sodium lauryl sulfate, sodium laureth sulfate, and mixtures thereof.
- the at least one anionic surfactant of the present invention comprises sodium lauryl sulfate and sodium laureth sulfate.
- the at least one anionic surfactant is present in the first compositions of the invention in an amount of from about 6% to about 1 1 % by weight, such as from about 6% to about 10% by weight, or preferably from about 6.24% to about 9.25% by weight, more preferably from about 6.5% to about 9% by weight, and even more preferably from about 7% to about 8.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition by weight, relative to the total weight of the first composition, including all ranges and sub ranges therebetween.
- the total amount of anionic surfactants is at about 6%, or about 6.24%, or about 6.5%, or about 6.75%, or about 7%, or about 7.2%, or about 7.5%, or about 7.75%, or about 8%, or about 8.25%, or about 8.5%, or about 8.75%, or about 9%, or about 9.25%, or about 9.5%, or about 9.75%, or about 10%, or about 10.25%, or about 10.5%, or about 10.75%, or about 10.81 % by weight, or 1 1 %, or about 1 1 .75% by weight, relative to the total weight of the first composition.
- the anionic surfactant in the first compositions of the invention is in an amount of from about 2% to about 3.2% by weight, such as from about 2.2% to about 3.1 % by weight, or preferably from about 2.4% to about 3% by weight, more preferably from about 2.4% to about 2.9% by weight, and even more preferably from about 2.5% to about 2.8% by weight, relative to the total weight of the first composition, including all ranges and sub ranges therebetween.
- the at least one anionic surfactant of the present invention when chosen from sodium lauryl sulfate, it is present in an amount of about 2%, or about 2.1 %, or about 2.15%, or about 2.2%, or about 2.25%, or about 2.3%, or about 2.35%, or about 2.4%, or 2.45%, or about 2.5%, or about 2.55%, or about 2.57%, or about 2.7%, or about 2.75%, or about 2.8%, or about 2.85%, or about 2.9%, or about 2.95%, or about 3%, or about 3.1 %, or about 3.15%, or about 3.2%, relative to the total weight of the first composition.
- the anionic surfactant in the first compositions of the invention is in an amount of from about 4% to about 7.8% by weight, such as from about 4.2% to about 7% by weight, or preferably from about 4.3% to about 6% by weight, more preferably from about 4.4% to about 5.5% by weight, and even more preferably from about 4.5% to about 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition by weight, relative to the total weight of the first composition, including all ranges and sub ranges therebetween.
- the at least one anionic surfactant of the present invention when chosen from sodium laureth sulfate, it is present in an amount of about 2%, or about 2.5%, or about 3%, or about 3.5%, or about 4%, or about 4.1 %, or about 4.5%, or about 4.6%, or 4.63%, or about 4.7%, or about 5%, or about 5.5%, or about 6%, or about 6.5%, or about 7%, or about 7.5%, or about 7.8%, relative to the total weight of the first composition.
- the at least one anionic surfactant of the present invention comprises sodium lauryl sulfate and sodium laureth sulfate; preferably sodium lauryl sulfate is present in an amount of from about 2.5% to about 2.8% by weight, such as about 2.5%, 2.55%, 2.56%, 2.6%, 2.65%, 2.7%, and sodium laureth sulfate present in an amount of from about 4.5% to about 5% by weight, such as about 4.5%, 4.55%, 4.6%, 4.63%, 4.65%, 4.7%, 4.75%, 4.8%, all weights relative to the total weight of the first composition, including all ranges and sub ranges therebetween.
- amphoteric surfactants of the present invention may be optionally quaternized secondary or tertiary aliphatic amine derivatives, in which the aliphatic group is a linear or branched chain comprising from 8 to 22 carbon atoms, said amine derivatives containing at least one anionic group, for instance a carboxylate, sulfonate, sulfate, phosphate or phosphonate group.
- Ra represents a Cio-C 30 alkyl or alkenyl group derived from an acid Ra- COOH preferably present in hydrolysed coconut oil, a heptyl group, a nonyl group or an undecyl group,
- Rb represents a ⁇ -hydroxyethyl group
- Rc represents a carboxymethyl group
- n 0, 1 or 2
- Z represents a hydrogen atom or a hydroxyethyl or carboxymethyl group
- B represents -CH 2 CH 2 OX', with X' representing -CH 2 -COOH, CH 2 - COOZ', CH 2 CH 2 -COOH, -CH 2 CH 2 -COOZ', or a hydrogen atom,
- n 1 or 2
- Z represents a hydrogen atom or a hydroxyethyl or carboxymethyl group
- Z' represents an ion resulting from an alkali or alkaline-earth metal, such as sodium, potassium or magnesium; an ammonium ion; or an ion resulting from an organic amine and in particular from an amino alcohol, such as monoethanola-mine, diethanolamine and triethanolamine, monoisopropanolamine, diisopropa-nolamine or triisopropanolamine, 2-amino-2-methyl-1 -propanol, 2-amino- 2-methyl-1 ,3-propanediol and tris(hydroxymethyl)aminomethane,
- an alkali or alkaline-earth metal such as sodium, potassium or magnesium
- an ammonium ion or an ion resulting from an organic amine and in particular from an amino alcohol, such as monoethanola-mine, diethanolamine and triethanolamine, monoisopropanolamine, diisopropa-nolamine or triisopropanolamine, 2-amino-2-methyl-1
- Ra' represents a C10-C30 alkyl or alkenyl group of an acid Ra'COOH preferably pre-sent in hydrolysed linseed oil or coconut oil, an alkyl group, in particular a C17 alkyl group, and its iso form, or an unsaturated Ci 7 group.
- compositions corresponding to formula (A2) are disodium cocoamphodiace-tate, disodium lauroamphodiacetate, disodium caproamphodiacetate, disodium capryloamphodiacetate, disodium cocoamphodipropionate, disodium lauroam-phodipropionate, disodium caproamphodipropionate, disodium capryloamphodi-propionate, lauroamphodipropionic acid and cocoamphodipropionic acid.
- cocoamphodiacetate sold by the company Rhodia under the trade name Miranol® C2M Concentrate
- the sodium cocoamphoacetate sold under the trade name Miranol Ultra C 32 and the product sold by the company Chimex under the trade name CHIMEXANE HA.
- Ra represents a C1 0-C30 alkyl or alkenyl group of an acid Ra"- C(O)OH preferably present in hydrolysed linseed oil or coconut oil;
- - Y represents the group -C(O)OH, -C(O)OZ", -CH 2 -CH(OH)-SO 3 H or the group CH 2 -CH(OH)-SO 3 -Z", with Z" representing a cationic counterion resulting from an alkali metal or alkaline-earth metal, such as sodium, an ammonium ion or an ion resulting from an organic amine;
- Rd and Re represent, independently of each other, a CrC 4 alkyl or hydroxyalkyl radical
- n denote, independently of each other, an integer ranging from 1 to 3.
- amphoteric surfactants are chosen from (Cs-
- the at least one amphoteric surfactant of the present invention is chosen from (Cs-C 2 o)alkyl betaines, (Cs-C 2 o)alkylamido (d- C6)alkylbetaines, (C8-C 2 o)alkylamphoacetate, (C8-C 2 o)alkylamphodiacetate, and their salts, and mixtures thereof.
- amphoteric surfactants are chosen from (C 8 - C 2 o)alkylbetaines such as the one known under the INCI names coco-betaine, (Cs- C 2 o)alkylamido(Ci-C6)alkylbetaines such as the one known under the INCI name cocamidopropylbetaine, and mixtures thereof. Even more preferentially, the amphoteric surfactant is coco-betaine.
- the at least one amphoteric surfactant of the present invention is preferably chosen from coco betaine, cocamidopropylbetaine, cocoamphoacetate, cocoamphodiacetate, and their salts, and mixtures thereof
- the at least one amphoteric surfactant is present in the first compositions of the invention in an amount of from about 1 % to about 3% by weight, preferably ranging from about 1 .5% to about 2.75% by weight, more preferably from about 1 .8% to about 2.5% by weight, and even more preferably from about 1 .9% to about 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the first composition, including all ranges and subranges therebetween.
- the amount of the at least one amphoteric surfactant is at about 1 %, or about 1 .5%, or about 1 .55%, or about 1 .6%, or about 1 .65%, or about 1 .7%, or about 1 .75%, or about 1 .8%, or about 1 .85%, or about 1 .9%, or about 1 .95%, or about 1 .97%, or about 2%, or about 2.05%, or about 2.1 %, or about 2.1 5%, or about 2.2%, or about 2.25%, or about 2.3%, or about 2.35%, or about 2.4%, or about 2.45%, or about 2.5%, or about 2.55%, or about 2.6%, or about 2.65%, or about 2.7%, or about 2.75%, or about 2.8%, or about 2.85%, or about 2.9% by weight, relative to the total weight of the first composition.
- the weight ratio of the anionic surfactant to the amphoteric surfactant is greater than 3 or greater than 3.1 , or greater than 3.2, or greater than 3.3, or greater than 3.4, or greater than 3.5.
- the weight ratio of the anionic surfactant to the amphoteric surfactant ranges from about 3.5 to about 4.5, such as from about 3.6 to about 4.4, or such as from about 3.6 to about 4.3, or such as from about 3.6 to about 4.2, or such as from about 3.6 to about 4.1 , or such as from about 3.6 to about 4.0, including all ranges and sub ranges therebetween.
- the first cosmetic composition according to the invention optionally comprises one or more amino silicones.
- amino silicone is intended to mean any silicone comprising at least one primary, secondary or tertiary amine or a quaternary ammonium group.
- x' and y' are integers such that the weight-average molecular weight (Mw) is comprised between about 5000 and 500 000;
- - G which may be identical or different, designate a hydrogen atom, or a phenyl, OH or d-Cs alkyl group, for example methyl, or d-Cs alkoxy, for example methoxy,
- - a which may be identical or different, denote the number 0 or an integer from 1 to 3, in particular 0;
- - b denotes 0 or 1 , and in particular 1 ;
- n + m and n are numbers such that the sum (n + m) ranges from 1 to 2000 and in particular from 50 to 150, it being possible for n to denote a number from 0 to 1999 and in particular from 49 to 149, and for m to denote a number from 1 to 2000 and in particular from 1 to 10;
- - R' which may be identical or different, denote a monovalent radical having formula -CqH 2 qL in which q is a number ranging from 2 to 8 and L is an optionally quaternized amino group chosen from the following groups:
- R which may be identical or different, denote hydrogen, phenyl, benzyl, or a saturated monovalent hydrocarbon-based radical, for example a C1-C20 alkyl radical
- Q denotes a linear or branched CrH 2r group, r being an integer ranging from 2 to 6, preferably from 2 to 4
- A- represents a cosmetically acceptable ion, in particular a halide such as fluoride, chloride, bromide or iodide.
- a group of amino silicones corresponding to this definition (B) is represented by the silicones called "trimethylsilylamodimethicone” having formula (C):
- n and m have the meanings given above, in formula B.
- n + m and n are numbers such that the sum (n + m) can range from 1 to 1000, in particular from 50 to 250 and more particularly from 100 to 200, it being possible for n to denote a number from 0 to 999 and in particular from 49 to 249, and more particularly from 125 to 175, and for m to denote a number from 1 to 1000 and in particular from 1 to 10, and more particularly from 1 to 5;
- the alkoxy radical is preferably a methoxy radical.
- the hydroxy/alkoxy mole ratio ranges preferably from 0.2:1 to 0.4:1 and preferably from 0.25:1 to 0.35:1 and more particularly equals 0.3:1 .
- the weight-average molecular weight (Mw) of the silicone ranges preferably from 2000 to 1 000 000, more particularly from 3500 to 200 000.
- - p and q are numbers such that the sum (p + q) ranges from 1 to 1000, particularly from 50 to 350, and more particularly from 150 to 250; it being possible for p to denote a number from 0 to 999 and in particular from 49 to 349, and more particularly from 159 to 239 and for q to denote a number from 1 to 1000, in particular from 1 to 10, and more particularly from 1 to 5;
- R 2 which are different, represent a hydroxy or C C 4 alkoxy radical, where at least one of the radicals Ri or R 2 denotes an alkoxy radical.
- the alkoxy radical is preferably a methoxy radical.
- the hydroxy/alkoxy mole ratio ranges generally from 1 :0.8 to 1 :1 .1 and preferably from 1 :0.9 to 1 :1 and more particularly equals 1 :0.95.
- the weight-average molecular weight (Mw) of the silicone ranges preferably from 2000 to 200 000, even more particularly 5000 to 100 000 and more particularly from 10 000 to 50 000.
- Commercial products corresponding to these silicones having structure (D) or (E) may include in their composition one or more other amino silicones whose structure is different than formulae (D) or (E).
- a product containing amino silicones having structure (D) is sold by Wacker under the name Belsil® ADM 652.
- a product containing amino silicones having structure (E) is sold by Wacker under the name Fluid WR 1300®.
- the oil-in- water emulsion may comprise one or more surfactants.
- the surfactants may be of any nature but are preferably cationic and/or nonionic.
- the number-average size of the silicone particles in the emulsion generally ranges from 3 nm to 500 nanometres.
- microemulsions are used whose average particle size ranges from 5 nm to 60 nanometres (limits included) and more preferably from 10 nm to 50 nanometres (limits included).
- the microemulsions of amino silicone having formula (E) sold as Finish CT 96 E® or SLM 28020® by Wacker can be used.
- n + m and n are numbers such that the sum (n + m) ranges from 1 to 2000 and in particular from 50 to 150, it being possible for n to denote a number from 0 to 1999 and in particular from 49 to 149, and for m to denote a number from 1 to 2000 and in particular from 1 to 10;
- A denotes a linear or branched alkylene radical containing from 4 to 8 carbon atoms and preferably 4 carbon atoms. This radical is preferably linear.
- the weight-average molecular weight (Mw) of these amino silicones ranges preferably from 2000 to 1 000 000 and even more particularly from 3500 to 200 000.
- a preferred silicone of formula (F) is amodimethicone (INCI name) sold under the tradename XIAMETER® MEM-8299 Cationic Emulsion by Dow Corning.
- n + m and n are numbers such that the sum (n + m) ranges from 1 to 2000 and in particular from 50 to 150, it being possible for n to denote a number from 0 to 1999 and in particular from 49 to 149, and for m to denote a number from 1 to 2000 and in particular from 1 to 10;
- A denotes a linear or branched alkylene radical containing from 4 to 8 carbon atoms and preferably 4 carbon atoms. This radical is preferably branched.
- the weight-average molecular weight (Mw) of these amino silicones ranges preferably from 500 to 1 000 000 and even more particularly from 1000 to 200 000.
- a silicone having this formula is for example DC2-8566 Amino Fluid by Dow Corning.
- R 5 represents a monovalent hydrocarbon-based radical containing from 1 to 18 carbon atoms, and in particular a C Ci 8 alkyl or C 2 -Ci 8 alkenyl radical, for example methyl;
- R6 represents a divalent hydrocarbon-based radical, in particular a d- Ci 8 alkylene radical or a divalent C Ci 8 , for example CrC 8 , alkylenoxy radical linked to the Si via an SiC bond;
- - Q- is an anion such as a halide ion, in particular chloride, or an organic acid salt (for example acetate); r represents a mean statistical value from 2 to 20 and in particular from 2 to 8;
- s represents a mean statistical value from 20 to 200 and in particular from 20 to 50.
- R 7 which may be identical or different, represent a monovalent hydrocarbon-based radical containing from 1 to 1 8 carbon atoms, and in particular a C1 -C18 alkyl radical, a C2-C18 alkenyl radical or a ring containing 5 or 6 carbon atoms, for example methyl;
- R 6 represents a divalent hydrocarbon-based radical, in particular a C C18 alkylene radical or a divalent C Ci 8 , for example CrC 8 , alkylenoxy radical linked to the Si via an SiC bond;
- - Rs which may be identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom, a monovalent hydrocarbon-based radical containing from 1 to 1 8 carbon atoms, and in particular a C Ci 8 alkyl radical, a C 2 -Ci 8 alkenyl radical or a -R 6 -NHCOR 7 radical;
- X- is an anion such as a halide ion, in particular chloride, or an organic acid salt (for example acetate);
- - r represents a mean statistical value from 2 to 200 and in particular from 5 to 1 00;
- R-i , R 2 , R3 and R 4 which may be identical or different, denote a C C 4 alkyl radical or a phenyl group;
- R 5 denotes a C C 4 alkyl radical or a hydroxyl group
- - n is an integer ranging from 1 to 5;
- - m is an integer ranging from 1 to 5;
- x is chosen such that the amine number is between 0.01 and 1 meq/g;
- multiblockpolyoxyalkylenated amino silicones of type (AB)n, A being a polysiloxane block and B being a polyoxyalkylenated block containing at least one amine group.
- Said silicones are preferably constituted of repeating units having the following general formulae:
- - a is an integer greater than or equal to 1 , preferably ranging from 5 to 200, more particularly ranging from 1 0 to 1 00;
- - b is an integer comprised between 0 and 200, preferably ranging from 4 to 1 00, more particularly between from 5 and 30;
- - x is an integer ranging from 1 to 1 0 000, more particularly from 1 0 to
- - R" is a hydrogen atom or a methyl
- R which may be identical or different, represent a divalent linear or branched C 2 -C 12 hydrocarbon-based radical, optionally including one or more heteroatoms such as oxygen; preferably, R denotes an ethylene radical, a linear or branched propylene radical, a linear or branched butylene radical, or a - CH 2 CH 2 CH 2 OCH(OH)CH 2 - radical; preferentially R denotes a CH 2 CH 2 CH 2 OCH(OH)CH 2 - radical;
- R' which may be identical or different, represent a divalent linear or branched C 2 -Ci 2 hydrocarbon-based radical, optionally including one or more heteroatoms such as oxygen; preferably, R' denotes an ethylene radical, a linear or branched propylene radical, a linear or branched butylene radical, or a - CH 2 CH 2 CH 2 OCH(OH)CH 2 - radical; preferentially R' denotes -CH(CH 3 )-CH 2 -.
- the siloxane blocks preferably represent between 50 and 95 mol% of the total weight of the silicone, more particularly from 70 to 85 mol%.
- the amine content is preferably between 0.02 and 0.5 meq/g of copolymer in a 30% solution in dipropylene glycol, more particularly between 0,05 and 0,2.
- the weight-average molecular weight (Mw) of the silicone is preferably comprised between 5000 and 1 000 000, more particularly between 10 000 and 200 000.
- - x and y are numbers ranging from 1 to 5000; preferably, x ranges from 10 to 2000 and especially from 100 to 1000; preferably, y ranges from 1 to 100;
- Ri and R 2 which may be identical or different, preferably identical, are linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated alkyl radicals, comprising 6 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably 8 to 24 carbon atoms and especially 12 to 20 carbon atoms;
- - A denotes a linear or branched alkylene radical containing from 2 to 8 carbon atoms
- A comprises 3 to 6 carbon atoms, especially 4 carbon atoms; preferably, A is branched. Mention may be made especially of the following divalent radicals: -CH 2 CH 2 CH 2 and -CH 2 CH(CH 3 )CH 2 -.
- Ri and R 2 which may be identical or different, are saturated linear alkyl radicals comprising 6 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably 8 to 24 carbon atoms and especially 12 to 20 carbon atoms; mention may be made in particular of dodecyl, tetradecyl, pentadecyl, hexadecyl, heptadecyl, octadecyl, nonadecyl and eicosyl radicals; and preferentially, Ri and R 2 , which may be identical or different, are chosen from hexadecyl (cetyl) and octadecyl (stearyl) radicals.
- the silicone is of formula (K) with: - x ranging from 10 to 2000 and especially from 100 to 1000;
- A comprising 3 to 6 carbon atoms and especially 4 carbon atoms; preferably, A is branched; and more particularly A is chosen from the following divalent radicals: CH 2 CH 2 CH 2 and -CH 2 CH(CH 3 )CH 2 -; and
- Ri and R 2 which may be identical or different, being linear, saturated alkyl radicals comprising 6 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably 8 to 24 carbon atoms and especially 12 to 20 carbon atoms; chosen in particular from dodecyl, tetradecyl, pentadecyl, hexadecyl, heptadecyl, octadecyl, nonadecyl and eicosyl radicals; preferentially, Ri and R 2 , which may be identical or different, being chosen from hexadecyl (cetyl) and octadecyl (stearyl) radicals.
- a preferred silicone of formula (K) is bis-cetearylamodimethicone (INCI name).
- the amino silicones according to the invention are chosen from the amino silicones of formula (F).
- a preferred silicone of formula (F) is amodimethicone (INCI name) sold under the tradename XIAMETER® MEM-8299 Cationic Emulsion by Dow Corning.
- the at least one amino silicone is present in the first compositions of the invention in an amount of from about 0.4 to about 1 .14% by weight, such as from about 0.6 to about 1 % by weight, preferably from about 0.7 to about 1 % by weight, or more preferably from about 0.8 to about 0.9% by weight, relative to the total weight of the first composition, including all ranges and sub ranges therebetween.
- the amount of the at least one amino silicone is at about 0.4%, or about 0.43%, or about 0.45%, or about 0.5%, or about 0.55%, or about 0.57%, or about 0.6%, or about 0.65%, or about 0.7%, or about 0.75%,or about 0.78%, or about 0.8%, or about 0.85%, or about 0.9%, or about 0.95%, or about 1 %, or about 1 .1 % or about 1 .14%, by weight, relative to the total weight of the first composition.
- the at least one cationic polymer of the present invention is chosen, for example, from homopolymers and copolymers.
- Non limiting examples of cationic polymers that can be used in the compositions of the present invention include: derivatives of cationic guar gum, preferably a quaternary ammonium such as those described in US patents 3,589,578 and 4,031 ,307 and such as guar gums containing trialkylammonium cationic groups, for example guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride. Such products are marketed under the trade designations including Jaguar (R) C13 S, Jaguar (R) C 1 5, JAGUAR (R) C 1 7 by Rhodia.
- the at least one cationic polymer of the present invention is chosen from guarhydroxypropyltrimoniumchloride.
- the at least one cationic polymer is present in the first compositions of the invention in an amount of from about 0.1 to 1 %by weight, such as from about 0.1 3 to about 0.8% by weight, or preferably from about 0.1 5 to about 0.6% or more preferably from about 0.1 75 to about 0.5% by weight, or even more preferably from about 0.2 to about 0.46% by weight, relative to the total weight of the first composition, including all ranges and sub ranges therebetween.
- the amount of the at least one cationic polymer is at about 0.1 %, or about 0.1 3%, or about 0.1 5%, or about 0.1 7%, or about 0.1 8%, or about 0.19%, or about 0.2%, or about 0.21 %, or about 0.22%, or about 0.23%, or about 0.24%, or about 0.25%, or about 0.28%, or about 0.3%, or about 0.33%, or about 0.35%, or about 0.38%, or about 0.4%, or about 0.43%, or about 0,46%by weight, relative to the total weight of the first composition.
- the at least one fatty alcohol that is suitable for use in the invention comprises a fatty alkyl chain of 6 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably of 6 to 30 carbon atoms and preferably of 8 to 30 carbon atoms, wherein the fatty alkyl chain may be linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated.
- the at least one fatty alcohol that is suitable for use in the invention may be liquid or solid.
- the at least one fatty alcohol of the present invention includes cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol and their mixture (cetearyl alcohol).
- the at least one fatty alcohol is a liquid fatty alcohol.
- the liquid fatty alcohols of the present invention are preferably saturated and branched. They may possibly include in their structure at least one aromatic or non- cycle. Preferably, they are acyclic. More particularly, the saturated liquid fatty alcohols are chosen from octyldodecanol, isostearyl alcohol, 2-hexyl decanol, and palmityl alcohols, myristyl, stearyl and lauryl ether, and mixtures thereof. Unsaturated liquid fatty alcohols have in their structure at least one double or triple bond, and preferably, one or more double bonds.
- the liquid unsaturated fatty alcohols are selected from oleic alcohol (or oleyl), linoleyl alcohol (or linoley- ether), linolenic alcohol (or linolenyl) and undecylenic alcohol, and mixtures thereof.
- the at least one fatty alcohol of the present invention is chosen from cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, cetearyl alcohol, octyldodecanol, isostearyl alcohol, 2-hexyl decanol, palmityl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, lauryl alcohol, oleic alcohol (or oleyl), linoleyl alcohol (or linoley- ether), linolenic alcohol (or linolenyl) and undecylenic alcohol, and mixtures thereof.
- the at least one fatty alcohol of the present invention is preferably chosen from cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol and their mixture (cetearyl alcohol).
- the at least one fatty alcohol of the present invention is cetearyl alcohol.
- the at least one fatty alcohol is present in the second compositions of the invention in an amount of from about 3 to 9% by weight, such as from about 3 to about 8% by weight, or preferably from about 4 to about 7% or more preferably from about 4.5 to about 6.5% by weight, or even more preferably from about 5 to about 6% by weight, relative to the total weight of the second composition, including all ranges and sub ranges therebetween.
- the amount of the at least one fatty alcohol is at about 3%, or about 3.5%, or about 4%, or about 4.5%, or about 5%, or about 5.5%, or about 6%, or about 6.5%, or about 7%, or about 7.5%, or about 8%, or about 8.5%, or about 9% by weight, relative to the total weight of the second composition.
- the second cosmetic composition according to the invention also comprises one or more cationic surfactants. They are advantageously chosen from optionally polyoxyalkylenated primary, secondary or tertiary fatty amine salts, quaternary ammonium salts, and mixtures thereof. Mention may be made in particular of:
- the groups Rs to Rn which may be identical or different, represent a linear or branched aliphatic group containing from 1 to 30 carbon atoms, or an aromatic group such as aryl or alkylaryl, at least one of the groups R 8 to R-n containing from 8 to 30 carbon atoms and preferably from 12 to 24 carbon atoms; it being possible for the aliphatic groups to comprise heteroatoms such as, in particular, oxygen, nitrogen, sulfur or halogens; et
- X is an anion that could be chosen from the group consisting of halides, phosphates, acetates, lactates, (CrC 4 )alkyl sulfates, (CrC 4 )alkylsulfonates and (C C 4 )alkylarylsulfonates.
- the aliphatic groups are chosen, for example, from C1-C30 alkyl, d- C 30 alkoxy, (C 2 -C 6 )polyoxyalkylene, CrC 3 oalkylamide, (Ci2-C22)alkyl(C 2 C6)alkylamido, (Ci2-C 2 2)alkyl acetate and C-
- tetraalkylammonium halides preferably chlorides, such as dialkyldimethylammonium or alkyltnmethylammonium chlorides in which the alkyl group comprises from 12 to 22 carbon atoms, particularly behenyltrimethylammonium, distearyldimethylammonium, cetyltrimethylammonium, and benzyldimethylstearylammonium chlorides.
- palmitylamidopropyltrimethylammonium halides preferably chlorides
- stearamidopropyldimethyl(myristyl acetate)- ammonium halides preferably chlorides
- R-12 represents an alkenyl or alkyl group comprising from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, for example fatty acid derivatives of tallow;
- Ri3 represents a hydrogen atom, a CrC 4 alkyl group or an alkenyl or alkyl group comprising from 8 to 30 carbon atoms;
- R-I4 represents a CrC 4 alkyl group
- Ri5 represents a hydrogen atom or a C C 4 alkyl group
- X " is an anion, preferably chosen from the group consisting of halides, phosphates, acetates, lactates, (CrC 4 )alkyl sulfates, (CrC 4 )alkylsulfonates and (d- C 4 )alkylarylsulfonates;
- Ri2 and Ri 3 preferably denote a mixture of alkenyl or alkyl groups containing from 1 2 to 21 carbon atoms, for example fatty acid derivatives of tallow, R-I 4 denotes a methyl group, and R15 denotes a hydrogen atom.
- a product of this kind is sold for example under the name REWOQUAT® W 75 by the company REWO.
- R16 denotes an alkyl group containing from 1 6 to 30 carbon atoms, which is optionally hydroxylated and/or interrupted with one or more oxygen atoms,
- Ri 7 represents a hydrogen atom or an alkyl group containing from 1 to 4 carbon atoms or a group -(CH 2 ) 3 -N + (Ri 6 a) (Ri 7a) (Ri 8a) ; wherein R 1 6a , R 1 7a , Ri sa, which may be identical or different, are chosen from hydrogen and an alkyl group comprising from 1 to 4 carbon atoms
- R18, R19, R20 and R 2 i which may be identical or different, are chosen from hydrogen and an alkyl group comprising from 1 to 4 carbon atoms;
- X " is an anion preferably chosen from the group consisting of halides, acetates, phosphates, nitrates, (CrC 4 )alkyl sulfates, (CrC 4 )alkylsulfonates and (d - d)alkylarylsulfonates, in particular methyl sulfate and ethyl sulfate.
- Such compounds are, for example, FINQUAT CT-P (Quaternium 89) and FINQUAT CT (Quaternium 75) sold by the company FINETEX.
- R22 is chosen from C C 6 alkyl groups and CrC 6 hydroxyalkyl or d - C 6 dihydroxyalkyl groups;
- R 24 , R26 and R 2 8 which may be identical or different, are chosen from linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C7-C21 hydrocarbon-based groups;
- r, s and t which may be identical or different, are integers ranging from
- r1 and t1 which may be identical or different, are equal to 0 or 1 ;
- y is an integer ranging from 1 to 1 0;
- x and z which may be identical or different, are integers ranging from 0 to 1 0;
- X is an anion
- R23 denotes R 2 7
- R25 denotes R 2 g
- the alkyl groups R22 may be linear or branched, and more particularly linear.
- R22 denotes a methyl, ethyl, hydroxyethyl or dihydroxypropyl group, and more particularly a methyl or ethyl group.
- R23 is an R 2 7 hydrocarbon group, it may have from 1 2 to 22 carbon atoms, or may have from 1 to 3 carbon atoms.
- R25 is an R 2 g hydrocarbon group, it preferably has 1 to 3 carbon atoms.
- R 24 , R26 and R 2 s which are identical or different, are chosen from linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C11 -C21 hydrocarbon groups, and more particularly from linear or branched Cn -C 2 i alkyl and alkenyl groups.
- x and z which may be identical or different, are equal to 0 or
- y is equal to 1 .
- the sum x + y + z is from 1 to 1 0.
- r, s and t which may be identical or different, are equal to 2 or 3, and even more particularly are equal to 2.
- the anion X is preferably a halide, preferably chloride, bromide or iodide, a (C C 4 )alkylsulfate, (Ci -C 4 )alkyl sulfonate or (Ci -C 4 )alkylaryl sulfonate, methanesulfonate, phosphate, nitrate, tosylate, an anion derived from an organic acid, such as acetate or lactate, or any other anion that is compatible with the ammonium comprising an ester function.
- the anion X " is more particularly chloride, methyl sulfate or ethyl sulfate.
- R 22 denotes a methyl or ethyl group
- R24, R26 and R 2 8 which may be identical or different, are chosen from linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C13-C17 hydrocarbon groups, and preferably from linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C13-C17 alkyl and alkenyl groups.
- hydrocarbon-based groups are advantageously linear.
- acyl groups preferably contain 14 to 1 8 carbon atoms and are obtained more particularly from a plant oil, such as palm oil or sunflower oil. When the compound contains several acyl groups, these groups may be identical or different.
- alkylating agent such as an alkyl halide, preferably methyl or ethyl halide, a dialkyl sulfate, preferably methyl or ethyl sulfate, methyl methanesulfonate, methyl para- toluenesulfonate, glycol chlorohydrin or glycerol chlorohydrin.
- alkylating agent such as an alkyl halide, preferably methyl or ethyl halide, a dialkyl sulfate, preferably methyl or ethyl sulfate, methyl methanesulfonate, methyl para- toluenesulfonate, glycol chlorohydrin or glycerol chlorohydrin.
- alkylating agent such as an alkyl halide, preferably methyl or ethyl halide, a dialkyl sulfate, preferably methyl or ethyl s
- Use may be made of a mixture of quaternary ammonium monoester, diester and triester salts with a weight majority of diester salts. Use may also be made of the ammonium by the company KAO under the name QUARTAMIN BTC 1 31 .
- the ammonium salts containing at least one ester function contain two ester functions.
- the cationic surfactants are chosen from the compounds of formula (la) and the compounds of formula (IVa), preferably from cetyltrimethylammonium, behenyltrimethylammonium, and dipalmitoylethylhydroxyethylmethylammonium salts, and mixtures thereof, and salts containing at least one ester function that are described in patents US-A-4 874 554 and US-A-4 1 37 1 80.
- Use may also be made of behenoylhydroxypropyltrimethylammonium chloride, more particularly from behenyltrimethylammonium chloride or methosulfate, cetyltrimethylammonium chloride or methosulfate, and dipalmitoylethylhydroxyethylmethylammonium chloride or methosulfate, and mixtures thereof.
- the cationic surfactant is a behenyltrimethylammonium salt.
- the at least one cationic surfactant of the present invention is chosen from behenyltrimethylammonium chloride, cetyltrimethylammonium chloride, and mixtures thereof.
- the at least one cationic surfactant is present in the second compositions of the invention in an amount of from about 1 .5 to 4% by weight, such as from about 1 .55 to about 3.5% by weight, or preferably from about 1 .6 to about 3% or more preferably from about 1 .6 to about 2.5% by weight, or even more preferably from about 1 .63 to less than about 1 .85% such as from about 1 .63% to about 1 .8% by weight, relative to the total weight of the second composition, including all ranges and sub ranges therebetween.
- the amount of the at least one cationic surfactant is at about 0.5%, or about 0.55%, or about 0.6%, or about 0.65%, or about 0.7%, or about 0.75%, or about 0.8%, or about 0.85%, or about 0.9%, or about 0.95%, or about 1 %, or about 1 .5%, or about 1 .6%, or about 1 .63%, or about 1 .7%, or about 1 .8%, or about 1 .9%, or about 2%, or about 2.1 %, or about 2.1 5%, or about 2.2%, or about 2.4%, or about 2.6%, or about 2.8%, or about 3%, or about 3.5%, or about 4%by weight, relative to the total weight of the second composition.
- the oily component of the present invention are chosen from various types of oils including, mineral oil, triglycerides, such as castor oil, lanolin oil, C10-18 triglycerides, caprylic/capric/triglycerides, and plant oils such as coconut oilalmond oil, apricot kernel oil, avocado oil, babassu oil, evening primrose oil, camelina sativa seed oil, grape seed oil, macadamia ternifoliaseed oil, corn oil, meadowfoam seed oil, mink oil, olive oil, palm kernel oil, safflower oil, sesame oil, soybean oil, sunflower oil, wheat germ oil, and camellia reticulataseed oil, and mixtures thereof.
- mineral oil such as castor oil, lanolin oil, C10-18 triglycerides, caprylic/capric/triglycerides
- plant oils such as coconut oilalmond oil, apricot kernel oil, avocado oil, babassu oil, evening primrose oil, came
- nonvolatile hydrocarbons such as isoparaffins, hydrogenated polyisobutene, mineral oil, squalene, petrolatum, and mixtures thereof.
- the oily component of the present invention is chosen from mineral oil, triglycerides, plant oils, hydrocarbon oils, and mixtures thereof.
- the oily component of the present invention includes mineral oil.
- the at least one oily composition is present in the second compositions of the invention in an amount of less than 3% by weight, such as from about 0.5 to 2.9% by weight, such as from about 0.75 to about 2.5% by weight, or preferably from about 1 to about 2% or more preferably from about 1 .2 to about 1 .8% by weight, or even more preferably from about 1 .27 to about 1 .63% by weight, including all ranges and sub ranges therebetween.
- the amount of the at least one oily component is at about 0.5%, or about 0.6%, or about 0.7%, or about 0.8%, or about 1 %, or about 1 .2%, or about 1 .27%, or about 1 .3%, or about 1 .4%, or about 1 .5%, or about 1 .6%, or about 1 .63%, or about 1 .7 %, or about 1 .8%, or about 1 .9%, or about 2%, or about 2.2%, or about 2.5%, or about 2.8%, or about 2.9% by weight, relative to the total weight of the second composition.
- the oily component of the second composition of the present invention is not a silicone oil.
- Said silicone oil includes volatile or nonvolatile nonionic silicone fluids, silicone resins, silicone polymers, and silicone semi-solids or solids.
- the second cosmetic of the present invention is substantially free of an anionic surfactant selected from sulfate surfactants, sulfonate surfactants, and carboxylic (carboxylate) surfactants.
- substantially free means that there is less than 1 % by weight, of anionic surfactants added to the second composition, and does not include anionic surfactants that may be present in raw materials as commercially available from suppliers and employed in the second composition.
- compositions according to the invention comprise water.
- the water used may be sterile demineralized water and/or a floral water such as rose water, cornflower water, chamomile water or lime water, and/or a natural thermal or mineral water such as, for example: water from Vittel, water from the Vichy basin, water from Uriage, water from La Roche Posay, water from La Bourboule, water from Enghien- les-Bains, water from Saint Gervais-les-Bains, water from Neris-les-Bains, water from Allevar-les-Bains, water from Digne, water from Maizieres, water from Neyrac-les- Bains, water from Lons-le-Saunier, water from EauxBonnes, water from Rochefort, water from Saint Christau, water from Les Fumades, water from Tercis-les-Bains or water from Avene.
- Water may also comprise reconstituted thermal water, that is to say a water comprising trace elements such as zinc, copper, magnesium, etc., recon
- Each of the first and second compositions according to the invention comprises water in an amount ranging from about 50% to about 99% by weight, preferably from about 65% to about 95% by weight, and most preferably from about 70% to about 92% by weight, relative to the total weight of the first or second composition.
- compositions according to the invention optionally may comprise one or more water-soluble solvent.
- water-soluble solvent means a compound that is liquid at room temperature and water-miscible (miscibility with water of greater than 50% by weight at 25 °C and atmospheric pressure).
- Non-limiting examples of water-soluble solvents useful in the invention include, for example, glycols containing from 2 to 8 carbon atoms, such as ethylene glycol, propylene glycol, 1 ,3-butylene glycol, hexylene glycol, and dipropylene glycol, glycerin, and mixtures thereof
- the water- soluble solvent is preferably present in the composition according to the invention in an amount of from about 0.01 % to 10% by weight, preferably in an amount of from about 0.05% to 5% by weight, and most preferably 0.1 % to 1 % by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.
- composition according to the invention may also comprise one or more standard additives that are well known in the art, chosen from fragrances, preservatives, pH adjusting agents, thickening/viscosity-modifying agents, colorants, chelating agents, antioxidants, moisturizers, emollients, amino acids, proteins, biological polymers, active agents, ceramides or pseudoceramides, waxes, vitamins or provitamins, and mixtures thereof.
- standard additives that are well known in the art, chosen from fragrances, preservatives, pH adjusting agents, thickening/viscosity-modifying agents, colorants, chelating agents, antioxidants, moisturizers, emollients, amino acids, proteins, biological polymers, active agents, ceramides or pseudoceramides, waxes, vitamins or provitamins, and mixtures thereof.
- compositions according to the invention are generally present in the composition according to the invention in an amount ranging from about 0 to about 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
- the first cosmetic composition of the present invention is an aqueous composition, such as a lotion, and may be provided in the form of a shampoo or cleanser.
- the second cosmetic composition of the present invention is an aqueous or an emulsion (water in oil or oil in water) composition, and may be provided in the form of a conditioning composition.
- the second cosmetic composition is an emulsion
- the composition may be in the form of a cream.
- the present invention to a process of cleansing and conditioning, wherein the first cosmetic composition is first applied onto hair (wet or dry), massaged into the hair fibers, then rinsed out with water, after which the second cosmetic composition is applied onto the wet hair, left on the hair from 0 up to about 10 minutes, while optionally massaging the second cosmetic composition onto then hair fibers, then rinsed out with water.
- the first cosmetic may be used on hair by itself.
- the second cosmetic composition may be used on hair by itself.
- the first cosmetic composition is applied on hair and then the second cosmetic composition is applied on the hair, with optional rinsing of the hair with water in between the application of the first cosmetic composition and the second cosmetic composition onto the hair.
- compositions according to the invention can be manufactured by known processes used generally in the cosmetics, including the processes described in the examples below.
- Shampoo formulas (first cosmetic composition) of the present invention comprising different amounts of surfactants, amino silicone and cationic polymer can be prepared in water according to the table below.
- the total amount of surfactants in the formula ranges from 7 to 1 1 .4% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition and the weight ratio of the anionic surfactants to the amphoteric surfactant is greater than
- preservatives preservatives, pH adjusters and thickening/viscosity- modifying agents (as needed or desired)
- Sodium laureth sulfate and sodium lauryl sulfate were combined with a thickening or viscosity modifying agent such as carbomer in an aqueous solution.
- a thickening or viscosity modifying agent such as carbomer in an aqueous solution.
- the amodimethicone(in emulsion form) was stirred into the solutionfor a few minutes.
- guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride was added to water (in an amount of about 20% by weight of the total amount of water in the formula) with fast stirring.
- the separate mixture was added to the rest of the formula and the resulting mixture was stirred for about 15 minutes.
- a thickening or viscosity modifying agent such as glycol distearate was added and mixed. Coco betaine and finally the fragrance were added.
- pH was adjusted with Citric Acid or Sodium Hydroxide.
- viscosity was adjusted with hexylene glycol or sodium chloride.
- Optional ingredients and additives may be included in Formula A: fragrance, preservatives, plant oils and extracts, colorants, honey, ceramide, shea butter, royal jelly.
- Conditioner formulas (second cosmetic composition) of the present invention comprising different amounts of fatty alcohol, cationic surfactant, and oil component can be prepared in water according to the table below.
- LANETTE Dfrom BASF 100% by weight active matter
- Clariant 79% by weight active matter, remainder, water and isopropyl alcohol
- Formula B in Table 2 the following procedure was used: All the ingredients (except for fragrance) were added into a beaker with water in an amount of 30% by weight of the total amount of water in the composition. The mixture was heated until 65 °C/ 149F, sheared for 10 minutes and allowed to cool down by adding the rest of the water, little by little. When the temperature has reached 30 °C/ 86F or below, the fragrance was added.
- Optional ingredients and additives may be included in Formula B: fragrance, preservatives, plant oils and extracts, colorants, honey, ceramide, shea butter, cacao seed butter, royal jelly.
- inventive multi-component hair cosmetic agent comprised of the inventive formulas A and B (shampoo and conditioner) provided more positive and desirable attributes to the hair compared to the comparative shampoo/conditioner treatment. It was discovered that the invention's hair cosmetic agent produced a bigger amount of foam than the test panelists were used to; a soft touch to the hair and untangled hair after the shampoo application; a very easy conditioner rinsing; and a very fast transformation after the conditioner application. It was also discovered that the invention's hair cosmetic agent provided better detangling benefits, better frizz and volume control, hair shine, more defined curls, more suppleness/softness, no unwanted residue, and a feeling of lighter and looser hair (with more movement).
- Q.S. 100 Q.S. 100 Q.S. 100 such as fragrance, preservatives, pH INCI US NAME H 1 J adjusters and thickening/viscosity- modifying agents (as needed or desired)
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Abstract
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BR112018004038-0A BR112018004038B1 (pt) | 2015-11-19 | 2015-11-19 | Agente cosmético capilar com múltiplos componentes, composição cosmética, primeira composição cosmética, processo de limpeza e condicionamento capilar e kit |
PCT/BR2015/050223 WO2017083943A1 (fr) | 2015-11-19 | 2015-11-19 | Procédé et compositions cosmétiques de nettoyage et de conditionnement des cheveux |
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Cited By (5)
Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
---|---|---|---|---|
WO2020117262A1 (fr) * | 2018-12-07 | 2020-06-11 | Colgate-Palmolive Company | Compositions de soins d'hygiène personnelle |
WO2021008870A1 (fr) * | 2019-07-17 | 2021-01-21 | L'oreal | Composition cosmétique comprenant des tensioactifs anioniques et amphotères, des polysaccharides cationiques et des alcools gras insaturés, et procédé de traitement cosmétique |
WO2021123003A1 (fr) * | 2019-12-20 | 2021-06-24 | L'oreal | Procédé de traitement cosmétique de fibres de kératine à l'aide d'une composition de détergent et d'une composition de métal des terres rares |
WO2023070514A1 (fr) * | 2021-10-29 | 2023-05-04 | L'oreal | Composition pour le nettoyage et le conditionnement des cheveux |
FR3128641A1 (fr) | 2021-10-29 | 2023-05-05 | L'oreal | composition TRANSPARENTE pour le nettoyage et le conditionnement des cheveux |
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Cited By (8)
Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
---|---|---|---|---|
WO2020117262A1 (fr) * | 2018-12-07 | 2020-06-11 | Colgate-Palmolive Company | Compositions de soins d'hygiène personnelle |
WO2021008870A1 (fr) * | 2019-07-17 | 2021-01-21 | L'oreal | Composition cosmétique comprenant des tensioactifs anioniques et amphotères, des polysaccharides cationiques et des alcools gras insaturés, et procédé de traitement cosmétique |
FR3098721A1 (fr) * | 2019-07-17 | 2021-01-22 | L'oreal | Composition cosmétique comprenant des tensioactifs anionique et amphotère, des polysaccharides cationiques et des alcools gras insaturés, et procédé de traitement cosmétique |
WO2021123003A1 (fr) * | 2019-12-20 | 2021-06-24 | L'oreal | Procédé de traitement cosmétique de fibres de kératine à l'aide d'une composition de détergent et d'une composition de métal des terres rares |
FR3104981A1 (fr) * | 2019-12-20 | 2021-06-25 | L'oreal | Procédé de traitement cosmétique des fibres kératiniques mettant en œuvre une composition détergente et une composition de terre rare |
WO2023070514A1 (fr) * | 2021-10-29 | 2023-05-04 | L'oreal | Composition pour le nettoyage et le conditionnement des cheveux |
FR3128640A1 (fr) | 2021-10-29 | 2023-05-05 | L'oreal | composition pour le nettoyage et le conditionnement des cheveux |
FR3128641A1 (fr) | 2021-10-29 | 2023-05-05 | L'oreal | composition TRANSPARENTE pour le nettoyage et le conditionnement des cheveux |
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