WO2017074032A1 - Procédé de production de poudre compacte de maquillage - Google Patents

Procédé de production de poudre compacte de maquillage Download PDF

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Publication number
WO2017074032A1
WO2017074032A1 PCT/KR2016/012100 KR2016012100W WO2017074032A1 WO 2017074032 A1 WO2017074032 A1 WO 2017074032A1 KR 2016012100 W KR2016012100 W KR 2016012100W WO 2017074032 A1 WO2017074032 A1 WO 2017074032A1
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WO
WIPO (PCT)
Prior art keywords
powder
makeup
compressed
spherical
binder
Prior art date
Application number
PCT/KR2016/012100
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English (en)
Korean (ko)
Inventor
노영혜
박세준
김경남
Original Assignee
(주)아모레퍼시픽
Priority date (The priority date is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the date listed.)
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Application filed by (주)아모레퍼시픽 filed Critical (주)아모레퍼시픽
Priority to CN201680069570.3A priority Critical patent/CN108366913B/zh
Priority to EP16860215.9A priority patent/EP3369412B1/fr
Priority claimed from KR1020160139938A external-priority patent/KR102225684B1/ko
Publication of WO2017074032A1 publication Critical patent/WO2017074032A1/fr
Priority to HK18115071.0A priority patent/HK1256021A1/zh

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    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/02—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by special physical form
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/19—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing inorganic ingredients
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q1/00—Make-up preparations; Body powders; Preparations for removing make-up
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q19/00—Preparations for care of the skin

Definitions

  • the present invention relates to a method for producing a pressurized powder for make-up and improved usability.
  • Pressed type powders which are compression molded of powder particles, form a makeup cosmetics product such as powder pact and twin pact.
  • Pressed powder requires stability in the molded state, unlike powdered powder (Loosed type powder). That is, since it should not be broken by an external impact, it is designed to withstand a certain physical shock or more in a compressed state.
  • the compressed powder should be constant as an amount suitable for application in the amount taken on a makeup tool such as a puff, and there should be no powder pulverization when tapping the compressed powder with a puff.
  • a general compressed powder composition is a cosmetic powder and an oil binder (liquid binder) are mixed, and these components are ground, compressed and molded to prepare a compressed powder.
  • the cosmetic powder is required for compression moldability.
  • compression moldability is different depending on the type of powder, and also varies depending on the type and size of the powder coating.
  • talc has no elasticity and almost all kinds can be molded.
  • titanium dioxide has a cohesive property, the bonding strength is high and shows good formability by itself.
  • the compressed powder composition is based on the plate-like powder, it is common to include a mixture of spherical powder of less than 20% by weight for applicability. If it contains a large amount of spherical powder in more than 20% by weight, compression molding is impossible or it is difficult to ensure the durability of the manufactured product.
  • the oil binder serves to increase the cohesive force between the powder powder and to increase the compression moldability.
  • the oil binder is used to prevent breakage when the compressed powder is externally impacted and to reduce powder blowing.
  • the oil binder has a disadvantage in that it gives a heavy feeling at the time of application and reduces the usability of the compressed powder.
  • liquid foundation type products which have recently gained popularity among consumers, contain polyols or oils to express gloss and light to form a sticky cosmetic film when applying the skin.
  • the spreadability is poor and agglomeration appears, there is a problem that uniform application is difficult.
  • Republic of Korea Patent No. 1502026 proposes a solid powder cosmetic composition that secures compression stability and formability by increasing the compression density by using a cohesive fine polymer powder without including an oil binder.
  • an object of the present invention is to provide a method for producing compressed powder for make-up containing spherical powder in a high content, and improved compression moldability and usability.
  • the present invention has been made in order to achieve the above object, and provides a method for producing a compressed powder for makeup containing a high content of spherical powder using lyophilization. Since the compressed powder for make-up applied to the present invention is manufactured by a lyophilization method, even when it contains a large amount of spherical powder, it can be molded while maintaining the form, and the powder component and components other than moisture (for example, a binder or a thickener) ) Can be omitted.
  • the present invention as a method of manufacturing a compressed powder for makeup by drying the raw material containing a spherical powder and water to prepare a wet paste after drying,
  • the drying is carried out by lyophilization
  • the spherical powder provides a method for producing a compressed powder for makeup containing 30 to 60% by weight of the total weight of the makeup compressed powder.
  • the particle diameter of the spherical powder may be 5 ⁇ 20 ⁇ m.
  • the spherical powder is polymethyl methacrylate, polymethylsilsesquioxane, H. di / trimethylolhexylactone crosspolymer, polymethyl methacrylate, which is coated or uncoated with a hydrophilic or lipophilic coating material. It may be at least one selected from the group consisting of H 2 / trimethylolhexyllactone crosspolymer, ethylene-acrylic acid copolymer, nylon 12, and silica.
  • the hydrophilic or lipophilic coating material may be at least one selected from the group consisting of silica, alkylsilane, dimethicone, methicone, trisiloxane, fluorine, and lauroyl lysine.
  • the makeup compact powder may further contain a plate-like powder.
  • the plate-like powder may be at least one selected from the group consisting of talc, mica, sericite, barium sulfate, boron nitride and alumina.
  • the makeup compact powder may additionally contain a water-soluble binder of 5% by weight or less of the total weight of the makeup compact powder.
  • the water-soluble binder may be one or more selected from the group consisting of magnesium aluminum silicate, sodium magnesium silicate, disteadimonium hectorite, bentonite, hydroxyethyl cellulose and cellulose gum.
  • the makeup compact powder is polyethylene; Stearates including aluminum stearate, calcium stearate, zinc stearate and magnesium stearate; And it may further contain a powder binder including at least one selected from the group consisting of magnesium myristate.
  • the powder binder may be contained in 1 to 10% by weight of the total weight of the makeup powder compression.
  • the lyophilization may be carried out at -70 ⁇ 5 °C.
  • the present invention also provides a compression powder for make-up prepared by the above production method.
  • the makeup compact powder may be manufactured in a stick shape.
  • a compressed powder containing a large amount of spherical powder can be prepared without using an oil binder, and the destruction of an efficacy component that is unstable in the external environment can be prevented.
  • the compressed powder prepared according to the present invention contains air in the internal voids generated during the manufacturing process, and contains a high content of spherical powder, which does not have agglomeration phenomenon, is uniformly applied, and exhibits a soft and light feeling of use.
  • Example 2 is an image of a formulation (Comparative Example 2) formed by hot air drying a conventional wet powder paste.
  • 3 to 5 are images of the formulations (Examples 1 to 3) formed by lyophilizing the wet powder paste of the present invention.
  • Example 6 is an image of a conventional general compressed powder formulation (Comparative Example 1) applied to the artificial leather surface.
  • Example 7 is an image of a compressed powder formulation (Example 1) prepared by lyophilization of the present invention on the surface of artificial leather.
  • the present invention relates to a method for producing a pressurized powder for make-up improved moldability and usability by introducing a freeze-drying method.
  • the present invention as a method of manufacturing a compressed powder for makeup by drying the raw material containing a spherical powder and water to prepare a wet paste and then drying,
  • the drying is carried out by lyophilization
  • the spherical powder provides a method for producing a compressed powder for makeup containing 30 to 60% by weight of the total weight of the makeup compressed powder.
  • Freeze-drying is a process that freezes the target material and lowers the partial pressure of the water vapor pressure (less than 6 mbar or 4.6 Torr below the triple point of water) to allow water in the solid (ice) state to sublimate into gas (vapor).
  • vapor a partial pressure of the water vapor pressure
  • Freeze-drying is a process that freezes the target material and lowers the partial pressure of the water vapor pressure (less than 6 mbar or 4.6 Torr below the triple point of water) to allow water in the solid (ice) state to sublimate into gas (vapor).
  • the lyophilized material contains numerous pores.
  • the present inventors have completed the present invention with this in mind.
  • the compressed powder prepared by using lyophilization contains numerous voids generated by sublimation of water therein, and exhibits a soft and light feeling when applying the skin.
  • the conditions for performing the lyophilization are not particularly limited, but the temperature is preferably -70 to 5 ° C., and the pressure in the chamber is preferably maintained at 0.1 mbar or lower and dried for 6 to 24 hours.
  • the present invention has the significance that the lyophilization, which is the drying method of the above-mentioned food, was introduced into a process of molding the compressed powder for makeup.
  • the lyophilization method in the art it is used for the purpose of improving stability by preventing the destruction of the efficacy components included in the cosmetics, and the moldability and feeling of use of the compressed powder for makeup of the present invention. This is different from the purpose of raising the level.
  • the spherical powders of the present invention are polymethyl methacrylate (PMMA), polymethylsilsesquioxane (PMSQ), H-DIA / Trimethylolhexyllactone crosspolymer, polymethyl methacrylate At least one selected from the group consisting of acrylic acid copolymer, nylon 12, and silica.
  • the content of the spherical powder contained in the compressed powder for makeup according to the present invention is preferably 30 to 60% by weight based on the total weight of the compressed powder formulation for makeup. If the content of the spherical powder is less than 30% by weight, the agglomeration phenomenon and uniformity are not good when applied to the skin, when the content exceeds 60% by weight because the powdering phenomenon occurs because the feeling of use is reduced.
  • the particle diameter of the spherical powder is preferably 5 ⁇ 20 ⁇ m. If it is less than 5 ⁇ m hard to provide a soft feeling due to the spherical powder, if it exceeds 20 ⁇ m may have difficulty in compression molding, there may be a problem in the stability of the formulation, such as the formulation is broken when falling.
  • the spherical powder applicable to the present invention may be any one of a hydrophilic or lipophilic non-coating powder, a hydrophilic coating powder, a lipophilic coating powder, and a mixture thereof. At this time, it is preferable to use a mixture of hydrophilic powder and lipophilic powder for uniform spreadability. In addition, when including the coating powder, it is possible to further improve the dispersibility and durability of the compressed powder.
  • the hydrophilic or lipophilic material that can be coated on the spherical powder is at least one selected from the group consisting of silica, alkylsilane, dimethicone, methicone, trisiloxane, fluorine, and lauroyl lysine.
  • silica alkylsilane
  • dimethicone methicone
  • trisiloxane fluorine
  • lauroyl lysine preferably using dimethicone or methicone.
  • Compressed powder for make-up prepared according to the present invention may further contain a plate-like powder in addition to the above-described spherical powder.
  • the plate powder may be at least one selected from the group consisting of Talc, Mica, Sericite, Barium Sulfate, Boron Nitride, and Alumina. Of course, it is not limited.
  • the content of the plate-shaped powder may determine the amount of powder applied to the skin when applied once with a makeup tool, such as a puff, and the content of the plate-shaped powder in the present invention is 30 to 70 weight based on the weight of the compressed powder formulation for makeup. It is preferable that it is%.
  • the remaining plate-like powder component except for the talc (Talc) is preferably suitably formulated in accordance with the purpose and type of cosmetic formulation within the range of 1 to 40% by weight.
  • the compressed powder paste for makeup of the present invention may optionally further contain a water-soluble binder.
  • the water-soluble binder is to increase the bonding strength between the powder particles in the water phase using a solvent as a solvent, and to facilitate the paste dough, magnesium aluminum silicate (Sodium Magnesium Silicate), sodium magnesium silicate (Sodium Magnesium Silicate), At least one selected from the group consisting of disteardimonium hectorite, bentonite, benthite, hydroxyethyl cellulose and cellulose gum can be used.
  • magnesium aluminum silicate Sodium Magnesium Silicate
  • sodium magnesium silicate sodium Magnesium Silicate
  • At least one selected from the group consisting of disteardimonium hectorite, bentonite, benthite, hydroxyethyl cellulose and cellulose gum can be used.
  • the water-soluble binder may contain 5 wt% or less, preferably 0.1 to 5 wt%, based on the weight of the makeup powder formulation, but is not limited thereto.
  • the spherical powder coated in the present invention may not use the water-soluble binder.
  • the spherical powder when using a spherical powder coated with a silicone-based material such as alkylsilane, dimethicone, methicone, trisiloxane, etc., the spherical powder is difficult to absorb water and adsorption with a water-soluble binder, so the paste is not easily prepared. It is preferable to use a hydroxyethyl cellulose binder which increases the water to a gel form so as not to directly contact the spherical powder surface.
  • a silicone-based material such as alkylsilane, dimethicone, methicone, trisiloxane, etc.
  • Compressed powder paste for makeup of the present invention may further include a powder binder in addition to the water-soluble binder.
  • the hardness of the composition is higher, and thus the compressed powder may be implemented in a formulation such as a stick type.
  • the powder binder is not particularly limited as long as it is commonly used in the cosmetic field.
  • polyethylene, stearates (aluminum, calcium, zinc, magnesium, etc.), magnesium myristate, etc. Powders may be used.
  • the content of the powder binder is not particularly limited, but is preferably contained in 1 to 10% by weight of the total weight of the make-up compressed powder, more preferably in 3 to 5% by weight.
  • the compressed powder paste for makeup of the present invention contains a powder binder
  • it may be formulated into a stick type that is easy to carry and apply.
  • Stick-type compressed powder can be applied directly to the skin without using a tool such as a brush or a puff, so it is easy to use and easy to carry.
  • the hardness of the compressed powder paste containing the water-soluble binder and the powder binder is preferably 30 (N) or more.
  • the hardness can be measured at room temperature (25 ° C.) using a Sun rheometer compac-100 CR-500DX, Spin 2 (spherical ball).
  • the compressed powder paste for makeup according to the present invention may further include a pigment in order to compensate for skin defects and give bright colors.
  • the kind of such pigments is not particularly limited, and white or colored inorganic or organic particles can be used as those commonly used in the art.
  • Inorganic pigments include, for example, titanium dioxide, zirconium oxide or cerium oxide, surface treated or untreated, zinc oxide, iron oxide (black, yellow, or red), chromium oxide, manganese violet, ultramarine blue, chromium hydroxide hydrate ( chromium hydrate and ferric blue, aluminum powder and copper powder may be used.
  • organic pigments examples include cochinyl extract dyes, azo dyes, anthraquinone dyes, indigo dyes, xanthene dyes, pyrene dyes, quinoline dyes, triphenylmethane dyes, and fluorane dyes.
  • the compressed powder paste may contain oils and fats, humectants, softeners, surfactants, organic and inorganic pigments, organic powders, UV absorbers, preservatives, thickeners, fungicides, antioxidants, plant extracts, pH adjusters, alcohols, pigments, flavorings, It may further include any one or more of a blood circulation accelerator, a cold depressant, a restriction agent.
  • the temperature of the lyophilization applied to the present invention is carried out at -70 ⁇ 5 °C, the pressure of the chamber is maintained at 0.1 mbar or less, it is preferable to dry for 6 to 24 hours, for the other conditions and manufacturing environment It may be followed by conventional lyophilization methods carried out in the art.
  • Example 2 Example 3 Spherical powder Polymethylmethacrylate (PMMA) 20 20 20 25 20 Polymethylsilsesquioxane (PMSQ) 15 15 15 25 15 Oil binder Dimethicone 5 - - - - Plate powder Mica (Dolomite) 10 10 10 10 10 Talc To 100 To 100 To 100 To 100 To 100 To 100 To 100 Other pearl 3 3 3 3 3 antiseptic 0.3 0.3 0.3 0.3 0.3 total 100 100 100 100 100 100 100 100 100 100 Water Soluble Binder Magnesium Aluminum Silicate - 3 3 3 - Cellulose gum - - - 3 Purified water - 97 97 97 total - 100 100 100 100 100 100 100 100 100 100 100 100 100
  • the spherical powder, plate powder and other ingredients were weighed in a mixer and then mixed for 2 minutes.
  • An aqueous solution containing a water-soluble binder was added to a mixer and mixed for 10 minutes to prepare a paste.
  • a paste was prepared by weighing the water-soluble binder in 1) at a high speed (1500 to 2000 rpm) for 10 minutes.
  • Comparative Example 1 prepared by the conventional compressed powder production method was confirmed that the powder content is out of the dish as shown in FIG. In addition, in Comparative Example 2 prepared using hot air drying, the contents were shrunk and separated from the dish as shown in FIG. 2.
  • Examples 1 to 3 prepared using lyophilization can be confirmed that the dried form while maintaining the form immediately after filling, as shown in Figures 3 to 5, even though containing a high content of spherical powder.
  • Comparative Example 1 did not have a difference in weight before and after the charge when weighing up to the contents to be separated, Comparative Example 2 and Example 1 in both the content was dried in the contents, only the powder remained reduced in weight.
  • Example 1 evaluated the powder formulation to be light because there was air in the remaining voids after the water was sublimed. In addition, when the coating of Example 1 was applied smoothly and uniformly and lightly applied, the powder also appeared to be less, it can be confirmed that the compressed powder prepared according to the present invention is very excellent in terms of feeling.
  • FIG. 6 shows the formulation of Comparative Example 1
  • FIG. 7 shows 0.1 g of the formulation of Example 1 in puffs and taps three times on a black artificial leather surface.
  • the formulation of Comparative Example 1 is not uniformly applied at a time of application, but agglomeration occurs even when tapping twice or three times.
  • the formulation of Example 1 is applied in an appropriate amount and without aggregation. It was found to spread evenly.
  • Stick-shaped compressed powder was prepared using the same preparation method as in Examples 1 to 3 with the composition of Table 4.
  • Example 4 Ease of application (hardness) ⁇ ⁇ Uniform application ⁇ ⁇ Soft ⁇ ⁇ No powdering ⁇ ⁇
  • the stick of Example 4 was observed a phenomenon that the hardness is broken due to the low hardness, the results of the feeling evaluation showed that the dust is slightly generated during the application. This is considered to be because the hardness does not include a powder binder and sufficient hardness to be manufactured in the form of a stick.
  • Example 5 did not break due to sufficient hardness and exhibited a smooth surface.
  • the stick of Example 5 was evaluated to be excellent in the softness and uniformity at the time of no powdering and coating.
  • Compressed powder for makeup according to the present invention can be formulated as a two-way cake, fact, stick, blusher, eye shadow, highlighter, concealer and the like.

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  • Health & Medical Sciences (AREA)
  • Life Sciences & Earth Sciences (AREA)
  • Animal Behavior & Ethology (AREA)
  • General Health & Medical Sciences (AREA)
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  • Inorganic Chemistry (AREA)
  • Dermatology (AREA)
  • Cosmetics (AREA)

Abstract

La présente invention concerne un procédé de production de poudre compacte de maquillage présentant une meilleure aptitude au moulage et une meilleure facilité d'application. Ledit procédé de production de poudre compacte de maquillage selon la présente invention permet de produire une poudre compacte contenant de la poudre globulaire en grande quantité sans utiliser de liant huileux, et permet d'éviter de dégrader les principes actifs qui sont instables dans l'environnement externe. Ladite poudre compacte produite selon la présente invention contient de l'air dans les espaces internes généré pendant le processus de production et une grande quantité de poudre globulaire pour ainsi éviter une agglutination des particules, fournir une couverture uniforme, et permettre une application lisse et légère.
PCT/KR2016/012100 2015-10-30 2016-10-26 Procédé de production de poudre compacte de maquillage WO2017074032A1 (fr)

Priority Applications (3)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
CN201680069570.3A CN108366913B (zh) 2015-10-30 2016-10-26 一种化妆用压缩粉末的制备方法
EP16860215.9A EP3369412B1 (fr) 2015-10-30 2016-10-26 Procédé de production de poudre de maquillage compacte
HK18115071.0A HK1256021A1 (zh) 2015-10-30 2018-11-26 一種化妝用壓縮粉末的製備方法

Applications Claiming Priority (4)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
KR20150151453 2015-10-30
KR10-2015-0151453 2015-10-30
KR1020160139938A KR102225684B1 (ko) 2015-10-30 2016-10-26 메이크업용 압축 파우더의 제조방법
KR10-2016-0139938 2016-10-26

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WO2017074032A1 true WO2017074032A1 (fr) 2017-05-04

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Cited By (2)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
CN107550757A (zh) * 2017-10-19 2018-01-09 浙江艳庄化妆品有限公司 一种含多种二元醇复配的眉粉
CN108366913A (zh) * 2015-10-30 2018-08-03 爱茉莉太平洋股份有限公司 一种化妆用压缩粉末的制备方法

Citations (5)

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Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
KR960016869A (ko) * 1994-11-24 1996-06-17 압축 분말 형태의 화장품 조성물 및 그의 제조방법
KR20030074072A (ko) * 2002-03-14 2003-09-19 후지제롯쿠스 가부시끼가이샤 고형 분말 화장료
KR101307704B1 (ko) * 2008-10-22 2013-09-11 이엘씨 매니지먼트 엘엘씨 메이크업용 파우더 조성물 및 방법
KR101340274B1 (ko) * 2011-10-24 2013-12-10 한국콜마주식회사 파우더 화장 조성물 및 이의 제조 방법
KR101502026B1 (ko) * 2008-10-31 2015-03-13 (주)아모레퍼시픽 오일-프리 압축 또는 고형 파우더 화장료 조성물

Patent Citations (5)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
KR960016869A (ko) * 1994-11-24 1996-06-17 압축 분말 형태의 화장품 조성물 및 그의 제조방법
KR20030074072A (ko) * 2002-03-14 2003-09-19 후지제롯쿠스 가부시끼가이샤 고형 분말 화장료
KR101307704B1 (ko) * 2008-10-22 2013-09-11 이엘씨 매니지먼트 엘엘씨 메이크업용 파우더 조성물 및 방법
KR101502026B1 (ko) * 2008-10-31 2015-03-13 (주)아모레퍼시픽 오일-프리 압축 또는 고형 파우더 화장료 조성물
KR101340274B1 (ko) * 2011-10-24 2013-12-10 한국콜마주식회사 파우더 화장 조성물 및 이의 제조 방법

Cited By (3)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
CN108366913A (zh) * 2015-10-30 2018-08-03 爱茉莉太平洋股份有限公司 一种化妆用压缩粉末的制备方法
CN108366913B (zh) * 2015-10-30 2021-10-26 爱茉莉太平洋股份有限公司 一种化妆用压缩粉末的制备方法
CN107550757A (zh) * 2017-10-19 2018-01-09 浙江艳庄化妆品有限公司 一种含多种二元醇复配的眉粉

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