WO2017063748A1 - Composition and method for producing dermatological and cosmetic preparations having pronounced lamellar structures using phosphatidycholine and fermentation by microorganisms - Google Patents

Composition and method for producing dermatological and cosmetic preparations having pronounced lamellar structures using phosphatidycholine and fermentation by microorganisms Download PDF

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WO2017063748A1
WO2017063748A1 PCT/EP2016/001708 EP2016001708W WO2017063748A1 WO 2017063748 A1 WO2017063748 A1 WO 2017063748A1 EP 2016001708 W EP2016001708 W EP 2016001708W WO 2017063748 A1 WO2017063748 A1 WO 2017063748A1
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added
mixture
fermentation
composition according
plant
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German (de)
French (fr)
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Bernd Kuhs
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Bernd Kuhs
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    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q19/00—Preparations for care of the skin
    • A61Q19/007—Preparations for dry skin
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K35/00—Medicinal preparations containing materials or reaction products thereof with undetermined constitution
    • A61K35/66—Microorganisms or materials therefrom
    • A61K35/74—Bacteria
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K47/00—Medicinal preparations characterised by the non-active ingredients used, e.g. carriers or inert additives; Targeting or modifying agents chemically bound to the active ingredient
    • A61K47/06—Organic compounds, e.g. natural or synthetic hydrocarbons, polyolefins, mineral oil, petrolatum or ozokerite
    • A61K47/24—Organic compounds, e.g. natural or synthetic hydrocarbons, polyolefins, mineral oil, petrolatum or ozokerite containing atoms other than carbon, hydrogen, oxygen, halogen, nitrogen or sulfur, e.g. cyclomethicone or phospholipids
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K47/00—Medicinal preparations characterised by the non-active ingredients used, e.g. carriers or inert additives; Targeting or modifying agents chemically bound to the active ingredient
    • A61K47/06—Organic compounds, e.g. natural or synthetic hydrocarbons, polyolefins, mineral oil, petrolatum or ozokerite
    • A61K47/26—Carbohydrates, e.g. sugar alcohols, amino sugars, nucleic acids, mono-, di- or oligo-saccharides; Derivatives thereof, e.g. polysorbates, sorbitan fatty acid esters or glycyrrhizin
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K47/00—Medicinal preparations characterised by the non-active ingredients used, e.g. carriers or inert additives; Targeting or modifying agents chemically bound to the active ingredient
    • A61K47/44—Oils, fats or waxes according to two or more groups of A61K47/02-A61K47/42; Natural or modified natural oils, fats or waxes, e.g. castor oil, polyethoxylated castor oil, montan wax, lignite, shellac, rosin, beeswax or lanolin
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K47/00—Medicinal preparations characterised by the non-active ingredients used, e.g. carriers or inert additives; Targeting or modifying agents chemically bound to the active ingredient
    • A61K47/46—Ingredients of undetermined constitution or reaction products thereof, e.g. skin, bone, milk, cotton fibre, eggshell, oxgall or plant extracts
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/02—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by special physical form
    • A61K8/0295—Liquid crystals
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/02—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by special physical form
    • A61K8/04—Dispersions; Emulsions
    • A61K8/06—Emulsions
    • A61K8/068—Microemulsions
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/55—Phosphorus compounds
    • A61K8/553—Phospholipids, e.g. lecithin
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/60—Sugars; Derivatives thereof
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/73—Polysaccharides
    • A61K8/735—Mucopolysaccharides, e.g. hyaluronic acid; Derivatives thereof
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/92—Oils, fats or waxes; Derivatives thereof, e.g. hydrogenation products thereof
    • A61K8/922—Oils, fats or waxes; Derivatives thereof, e.g. hydrogenation products thereof of vegetable origin
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/96—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution
    • A61K8/97—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution from algae, fungi, lichens or plants; from derivatives thereof
    • A61K8/9706—Algae
    • A61K8/9711—Phaeophycota or Phaeophyta [brown algae], e.g. Fucus
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/96—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution
    • A61K8/97—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution from algae, fungi, lichens or plants; from derivatives thereof
    • A61K8/9728—Fungi, e.g. yeasts
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/96—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution
    • A61K8/97—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution from algae, fungi, lichens or plants; from derivatives thereof
    • A61K8/9783—Angiosperms [Magnoliophyta]
    • A61K8/9789—Magnoliopsida [dicotyledons]
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/96—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution
    • A61K8/97—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution from algae, fungi, lichens or plants; from derivatives thereof
    • A61K8/9783—Angiosperms [Magnoliophyta]
    • A61K8/9794—Liliopsida [monocotyledons]
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/96—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution
    • A61K8/99—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution from microorganisms other than algae or fungi, e.g. protozoa or bacteria
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K9/00—Medicinal preparations characterised by special physical form
    • A61K9/0012—Galenical forms characterised by the site of application
    • A61K9/0014—Skin, i.e. galenical aspects of topical compositions
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K9/00—Medicinal preparations characterised by special physical form
    • A61K9/10—Dispersions; Emulsions
    • A61K9/107—Emulsions ; Emulsion preconcentrates; Micelles
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q19/00—Preparations for care of the skin
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K2800/00—Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
    • A61K2800/80—Process related aspects concerning the preparation of the cosmetic composition or the storage or application thereof
    • A61K2800/85—Products or compounds obtained by fermentation, e.g. yoghurt, beer, wine

Definitions

  • DMS Product As early as 1995 (Derma membrane structure) were made by the inventor and applicant with the designation DMS Product developed and sold, which on the basis of hydrogenated phosphatidylcholine, medium: triglycerides, cosmetic active ingredients, and were prepared by high-pressure homogenisation. These cosmetic products were able to do without conventional emulsifiers altogether.
  • the lipophilic and hydrophilic components of the cream also exhibited lamellar structures for the first time, similar to those of the stratum corneum lipid matrix.
  • the lamellar structures conformed to the physiology of the skin and protect the skin against penetration: from external substances and regulate the transepidermal water loss through the skin.
  • lamellar structures are dependent on the geometric packing factors, such as the volume of the fatty acid chains, the critical chain length, and area occupied by the head group (Isräelachvili, JN In Intermolecular and Surface Forces, 2nd ed., Jovanovich, H. B., Academic Press Ltd., London 1994). This means that not every amphiphile lamellar structures or: can form membrane.
  • PC phosphatidylcholine
  • Phosphatidylcholine is found in a high concentration in soya lecithin.
  • DE 19857492, EP 1259218 and DE 10 2006015544 by Kuhs GmbH describe formulations based on hydrogenated phosphatidylcholine, medium-chain triglycerides, mixed with different active ingredients. However, the preparation of these formulations can not be carried out by conventional emulsification processes.
  • phosphatidylcholine especially the hydrogenated one, shows a pronounced barrier-stabilizing effect.
  • the skin barrier is stabilized by PCH-containing preparations with a lamellar structure in such a way that after the application of the transepidermal membrane [water loss (TEWL) changes only slightly when external substances act on the skin.
  • TEWL water loss
  • the protection thus obtained is also characterized by a high water resistance and welding strength.
  • the use of hydrogenated phosphatidylchol is highly desirable for cosmetic or dermatological preparations.
  • Object of this invention is to develop a method with which it is possible, using the already since 1995 known ingredients for membrane structure creams, in particular. using hydrogenated
  • High-pressure homogenization can be dispensed with and that the slow fermentation produces quantitatively and qualitatively much more pronounced multilamellar layers, which is very similar to the human skin barrier and significantly increases its protective functions.
  • Rofix fixation and subsequent microscopic examination in the SEM it was found that the multilamellar layers are much more pronounced than is the case with conventional high-pressure homogenization.
  • microorganisms can: in addition, for the skin very: valuable reaction products are formed, such as vitamins A, vitamin B1, B2, B6, B12, vitamin D, folic acid, niacin, enzymes.
  • bacterial cultures from the family of lactobacilli are / are added to the mixture.
  • yeast mixtures from the family of the saccharomycytes and / or Candida utillis and / or Kluyveromyces lactis are / are added to the mixture
  • the mixture may be added before or after the fermentation cosmetic and / or pharmaceutical active ingredients / be.
  • Extracts of the plant Edelweiss (Leontopodium alpinum) can be added to the mixture.
  • Extracts of the plant Pistacius lentiscus also called mastic or mastiha, can be added to the mixture.
  • the mixture may contain extracts of algae, in particular of the genus Laminaria ochroleuca and / or Alaria Esculenta. and or Be added / be microalgae.
  • Plant seed oils in particular grapeseed oil and / or cranberry seed oil and / or rose hip seed oil, and / or almond oil and / or argan oil may be added to the mixture.
  • Hyaluronic acid or Na-hyaluronate can be added to the mixture.
  • Plant extracts of aloe and / or horsetail can be added to the mixture.
  • Vitamins and / or provitamins and / or enzymes and / or coenzymes and / or proteins may be added to the mixture.
  • the microorganisms are inactivated (killed) after completion of fermentation, so that the finished product no longer contains any living germs.
  • the end product contains a high concentration of active bacteria and / or yeasts which: prevent colonization with pathogenic germs.
  • An embodiment of the invention provides that a concentrate is first prepared, which is added at a later time with hydrophilic and / or lipophilic components and active ingredients and processed into a cosmetic or dermatological preparation.
  • the invention is based on some
  • Fig. 1 a REM recording a pre-emulsion before fermentation and ... ,
  • a pre-emulsion is initially produced : with a predominantly droplet shape, which then completely changes into a multilamellar membrane structure over a period of several days by the addition of microcultures.
  • FIG. 1 shows such a pre-emulsion 1 with droplets 2 before the fermentation.
  • the initially liquid, milky consistency turns into a creamy consistency as the fermentation progresses, which is now evidenced by the transition from. of a droplet form into a multilamellar structure.
  • the components are heated to 70-80 ° C and homogenized with conventional homogenizer. After cooling the mixture to 20.degree. C., about 0.5-1% of a mixture of bacterial and yeast cultures are added to the liquid-consistency emulsion and the mixture is stored for 3-7 days at a constant temperature of 18-23.degree.
  • the bioreactor is designed so that anaerobic fermentation can take place, ie under exclusion of air, and the resulting carbon dioxide can escape.
  • the bacterial cultures consist mainly of
  • Streptococcus lactis The yeasts; are mainly Saccharomyces cerevisae, Candida utillis and Kluyveromyces lactis.
  • All components can be combined cold, at room temperature, regardless of the order and by means of a stir bar or the like. be mixed or homogenized.
  • cold manufacturing the manufacturing costs and the space required for a production can be significantly reduced.
  • Heat-sensitive substances can be incorporated immediately.
  • This example recipe shows a very nice consistency and a very good: storage stability of more than 30 months. It also has a complete larval structure, which optimally absorbs it and enhances its protective barrier.

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Abstract

The invention relates to the production of preparations for topical application for cosmetic or pharmaceutical products, characterized in that a mixture of 0.1-30% phsphatidylcholine, preferably hydrated, 0.5-50% vegetable oils and/or fats and/or waxes, 10-90% aquatic and/or aqueous plant extracts, 0.1-20% monosaccharides or polysaccharides is mixed and homogenized, preferably at a temperature of 40-90°C, then cooled to 10-40°C, and then bacterial and/or yeast cultures are added.

Description

Zusammensetzung und Verfahren zur Herstellung von dermatologischen und kosmetischen Präparaten mit ausgeprägten lamellaren Strukturen unter Verwendung von Phosphatidylcholin und Fermentation durch Mikroorganismen  Composition and process for the preparation of dermatological and cosmetic preparations with pronounced lamellar structures using phosphatidylcholine and fermentation by microorganisms
Bereits 1995 wurden vom Erfinder und Anmelder Produkte- mit der Bezeichnung DMS (Derma Membran Struktur) entwickelt und vertrieben, welche auf : der Basis von hydriertem Phosphatidylcholin, mittelkettigen : Triglyceriden, kosmetischen Wirkstoffen und mittels Hochdruck-homogenisation hergestellt wurden. Diese kosmetischen Produkte konnten auf herkömmliche Emulgatoren gänzlich verzichten. Die lipophilen und hydrophilen Bestandteile der Creme wiesen außerdem erstmals lamellare Strukturen auf, ähnlich die der Lipidmatrix des Stratum corneum. As early as 1995 (Derma membrane structure) were made by the inventor and applicant with the designation DMS Product developed and sold, which on the basis of hydrogenated phosphatidylcholine, medium: triglycerides, cosmetic active ingredients, and were prepared by high-pressure homogenisation. These cosmetic products were able to do without conventional emulsifiers altogether. The lipophilic and hydrophilic components of the cream also exhibited lamellar structures for the first time, similar to those of the stratum corneum lipid matrix.
Die lamellaren Strukturen entsprachen der Hautphysiologie und dienen der Haut zum Schutz gegen das Eindringen: von äußeren Substanzen und regeln den transepidermalen Wasserverlust durch die Haut . The lamellar structures conformed to the physiology of the skin and protect the skin against penetration: from external substances and regulate the transepidermal water loss through the skin.
Die Ausbildung der lamellaren Strukturen ist von den geometrischen Packungsfaktoren abhängig, wie das Volumen der Fettsäureketten, die kritische Kettenlänge und von der Kopfgruppe eingenommene Fläche ( Isräelachvili , J. N. In Intermolecular and Surface Forces 2. Ed.; Jovanovich, H . B . ; Academic Press Ltd. , London 1994) . Dies bedeutet, dass nicht jede amphiphile Substanz lamellare Strukturen oder : Membrane ausbilden kann. The formation of the lamellar structures is dependent on the geometric packing factors, such as the volume of the fatty acid chains, the critical chain length, and area occupied by the head group (Isräelachvili, JN In Intermolecular and Surface Forces, 2nd ed., Jovanovich, H. B., Academic Press Ltd., London 1994). This means that not every amphiphile lamellar structures or: can form membrane.
Das ; bekannteste Lipid, welches zur Ausbildung solcher lamellaren Strukturen fähig ist, ist das Phosphatidylcholin (PC), auch Bestandteil der menschlichen Zellmambrane . Phosphatidylcholin ist in einer hohen Konzentration im Sojalecithin zu finden. Die DE 19857492 , EP 1259218 Und DE 10 2006015544 der Firma Kuhs GmbH beschreiben Formulierungen auf der Basis von hydriertem Phosphatidylcholin, mittelkettigen Triglyceriden, versetzt mit unterschiedlichen Wirkstoffen. .Die: Herstellung dieser: Formulierungen kann jedoch nicht mit üblichen Emulgierverfahren erfolgen.. Zur Herstellung benötigt man eine spezielle Hochdruckhomogenisation, wobei der Prozess auch mehrfach durchlaufen werden muss (Hans Lautenschläger, Österreichische Apothekerzeitung, 56 (14) , 679 (2002) . Die - DE 102011110749 -von Gabriele Blume beschreibt ein Herstellverfahren, wonach mit einfacher Emulsionstechnik Präparate mit lamellarer Struktur hergestellt werden können. Hierbei wird jedoch das für die Haut so wertvolle Phopphatidylcholin durch Sucrösetristearate ersetzt. The ; The most well-known lipid capable of forming such lamellar structures is phosphatidylcholine (PC), also part of the human cell mambrane. Phosphatidylcholine is found in a high concentration in soya lecithin. DE 19857492, EP 1259218 and DE 10 2006015544 by Kuhs GmbH describe formulations based on hydrogenated phosphatidylcholine, medium-chain triglycerides, mixed with different active ingredients. However, the preparation of these formulations can not be carried out by conventional emulsification processes. A special high-pressure homogenization is required for the preparation, and the process also has to be repeated several times (Hans Lautenschläger, Österreichische Apothekerzeitung, 56 (14), 679 (2002) - DE 102011110749 -von Gabriele Blume describes a preparation process according to which preparations with a lamellar structure can be prepared by a simple emulsion technique, whereby, however, phopphatidylcholine, which is so valuable for the skin, is replaced by sucrase tristearates.
Phosphatidylcholin, besonders das hydrierte, zeigt jedoch eine ausgeprägte barrierestäbilisierende : Wirkung. Die Hautbarriere wird durch PC-H-haltige Präparate mit lamellarer Struktur derart stabilisiert, dass sich nach der Applikation der Transepidermale [ Wasserverlust (TEWL) nur geringfügig ändert, wenn äußerliche Stoffe auf die Haut einwirken. Der so erhaltene Schutz zeichnet sich darüber hinaus durch eine hohe Wasserresistenz und Schweißfestigkeit aus. Aus diesem Grund ist der Einsatz von hydriertem Phophatidylchol in äußert wünschenswert für kosmetische oder dermatologische Präparate. However, phosphatidylcholine, especially the hydrogenated one, shows a pronounced barrier-stabilizing effect. The skin barrier is stabilized by PCH-containing preparations with a lamellar structure in such a way that after the application of the transepidermal membrane [water loss (TEWL) changes only slightly when external substances act on the skin. The protection thus obtained is also characterized by a high water resistance and welding strength. For this reason, the use of hydrogenated phosphatidylchol is highly desirable for cosmetic or dermatological preparations.
Aufgabe dieser Erfindung ist es ein Verfahren zu entwickeln, mit welchem es möglich: ist, unter Verwendung der bereits seit 1995 bekannten Inhaltsstoffe für Membran Struktur Cremes, insbesondere . unter Verwendung von hydriertemObject of this invention is to develop a method with which it is possible, using the already since 1995 known ingredients for membrane structure creams, in particular. using hydrogenated
Phosphatidylcholin, stabile Cremegrundlagen zur topischen Anwendung herzustellen, : welche eine qualitativ und quantitativ bessere lamellare Struktur aufweisen, als durch das bisher verwendete: Verfahren mit Hochdruckhomogenisation . To produce phosphatidylcholine, stable cream bases for topical application : which have a qualitatively and quantitatively better lamellar structure than by the method used hitherto with high pressure homogenization.
Diese Aufgabe wird durch ein Verfahren gemäß Anspruch 1 und eine Zusammensetzung nach Anspruch 16 gelöst . This object is achieved by a method according to claim 1 and a composition according to claim 16.
Es hat sich nun gezeigt, dass vorgenannte Membran Struktur Präparate, hergestellt mit hydriertem Phosphatidylcholin, mittelkettigen Triglyceriden und kosmetischen oder pharmazeutischen Wirkstoffen nach einer Fermentierung durch Mikroorganismen, ausgeprägte lamellare Strukturen aufweisen. It has now been found that the aforementioned membrane structure preparations prepared with hydrogenated phosphatidylcholine, medium-chain triglycerides and cosmetic or pharmaceutical agents after fermentation by microorganisms, have pronounced lamellar structures.
Vorteile dieser Art der: Herstellung gegenüber dem herkömmlichen Verfahren sind, dass auf : eine aufwendigeAdvantages of this kind of: Manufacturing over the conventional procedure are that on : an elaborate
Hochdruckhomogenisation verzichtet werden kann und dass durch die langsame Fermentierung quantitativ und qualitativ viel stärker ausgeprägte multilamellare Schichten entstehen, was der humanen Hautschutzbarriere sehr ähnlich ist und deren Schutzfunktionen deutlich erhöht . Durch eine sog. Rryofixierung und: anschließender mikroskopischer Betrachtung im REM konnte festgestellt werden, dass die multilamellaren Schichten wesentlich ausgeprägter entstehen, als dies bei der herkömmlich Hochdruckhomogenisation der Fall ist . High-pressure homogenization can be dispensed with and that the slow fermentation produces quantitatively and qualitatively much more pronounced multilamellar layers, which is very similar to the human skin barrier and significantly increases its protective functions. By a so-called Rofix fixation and subsequent microscopic examination in the SEM, it was found that the multilamellar layers are much more pronounced than is the case with conventional high-pressure homogenization.
Es konnte deutlich gezeigt werden, dass durch eine Fermentation mit geeigneten Mikroorganismen bzw. durch die Einwirkung der bei der Fermentation entstehenden Reaktionsprodukte , eine: quantitativ und qualitativ wesentlich bessere Vernetzung zu multilamellaren Schichtungen stattfindet (siehe Fig. 2), als dies durch herkömmliche angewendete Hochdruckhomogenisation geschieht . Bei der Hochdruckhomogenisat ion entsteht vorwiegend eine Mischung aus Tröpfchenform und lamellarer Schichtung. It could be clearly shown that by fermentation with suitable microorganisms or by the action of the reaction products formed during the fermentation, a: quantitatively and qualitatively much better cross-linking to multilamellar stratifications takes place (see FIG. 2) than is done by conventional high-pressure homogenization. In the high-pressure homogenization ion mainly results in a mixture of droplet form and lamellar stratification.
Je nach Wahl der : Mikroorganismen können : zusätzlich, für die Haut sehr: wertvolle Reaktionsprodukte gebildet werden, wie beispielsweise Vitamine A, Vitamin Bl, B2 , B6, B12, Vitamin D, Folsäure, Niacin, Enzyme. Depending on the choice of: microorganisms can: in addition, for the skin very: valuable reaction products are formed, such as vitamins A, vitamin B1, B2, B6, B12, vitamin D, folic acid, niacin, enzymes.
Im Folgenden sind vorteilhafte Ausprägungen der Erfindung genannt, die sowohl' für das Verfahren als auch die Zusammensetzung gelten. Below, advantageous aspects of the invention are mentioned, which apply to both 'for the process and the composition.
In einer Ausführung ^werden/sind der Mischung i Bakterienkulturen aus der Familie der Laktobakterien zugesetzt. In one embodiment, bacterial cultures from the family of lactobacilli are / are added to the mixture.
Alternativ oder zusätzlich werden/sind der Mischung Hefekultüren aus der Familie der Saccharomycyten und/oder Candida utillis und/oder Kluyveromyces lactis zugesetzt Alternatively or additionally, yeast mixtures from the family of the saccharomycytes and / or Candida utillis and / or Kluyveromyces lactis are / are added to the mixture
Der Mischung können vor oder nach der Fermentation kosmetische und/oder pharmazeutische Wirkstoffe zugesetzt werden/sein. The mixture may be added before or after the fermentation cosmetic and / or pharmaceutical active ingredients / be.
Der Mischung können Auszüge der Pflanze Edelweiss (Leontopodium Alpinum) hinzugefügt werden/sein. Extracts of the plant Edelweiss (Leontopodium alpinum) can be added to the mixture.
Der Mischung können Auszüge der Pflanze Pistacius Lentiscus, auch Mastix oder Mastiha genannt, hinzugefügt werden/sein. Extracts of the plant Pistacius lentiscus, also called mastic or mastiha, can be added to the mixture.
Der Mischung können Auszüge aus Algen, insbesondere der Gattung Laminaria ochroleuca und/oder Aläria Esculenta. und/oder Mikroalgen hinzugefügt werden/sein. The mixture may contain extracts of algae, in particular of the genus Laminaria ochroleuca and / or Alaria Esculenta. and or Be added / be microalgae.
Der Mischung können Pflanzenkernole , insbesondere Traubenkernöl und/oder Cranberrysamenöl und/oder Hagebuttenkernöl , und/oder Mandelöl und/oder Arganöl zugefügt werden/sein. Plant seed oils, in particular grapeseed oil and / or cranberry seed oil and / or rose hip seed oil, and / or almond oil and / or argan oil may be added to the mixture.
Der Mischung kann Hyaluronsäure bzw. Na-Hyaluronat hinzugefügt werden/sein . Hyaluronic acid or Na-hyaluronate can be added to the mixture.
Der Mischung können Pflanzenauszüge aus Aloe und/oder Schachtelhalm zugesetzt werden/sein. Plant extracts of aloe and / or horsetail can be added to the mixture.
Der Mischung können Vitamine und/oder Provitamine und/oder Enzyme und/oder Coenzyme und/oder Proteine zugesetzt werden/sein . Vitamins and / or provitamins and / or enzymes and / or coenzymes and / or proteins may be added to the mixture.
Durch die : Fermentation bzw. durch die Reaktionsprodukte der Fermentation bilden sich multilammelare Schichten aus. By: fermentation or by the reaction products of the fermentation are multilammelare layers are formed.
In einer Ausführung der Erfindung werden die Mikroorganismen nach beendeter Fermentation inaktiviert (abgetötet), so dass das fertige Produkt keine lebenden Keime mehr enthält. In one embodiment of the invention, the microorganisms are inactivated (killed) after completion of fermentation, so that the finished product no longer contains any living germs.
In einer weiteren Ausführung der Erfindung : enthält das Endprodukt eine hohe Konzentration an aktiven Bakterien und/oder Hefen, welche : eine Besiedelung mit pathogenen Keimen verhindern . In a further embodiment of the invention: the end product contains a high concentration of active bacteria and / or yeasts which: prevent colonization with pathogenic germs.
Eine Ausführung der Erfindung sieht vor, dass zuerst ein Konzentrat hergestellt wird, welches zu einem späteren Zeitpunkt mit hydrophilen und/oder lipophilen Komponenten und Wirkstoffen versetzt wird und zu einem kosmetischen oder dermatologischen Präparat verarbeitet wird. Die Erfindung ist nachfolgend anhand einigerAn embodiment of the invention provides that a concentrate is first prepared, which is added at a later time with hydrophilic and / or lipophilic components and active ingredients and processed into a cosmetic or dermatological preparation. The invention is based on some
Ausführungsbeispiele mit Bezug auf die beiliegenden Zeichnungen näher erläutert. Embodiments explained in more detail with reference to the accompanying drawings.
Es zeigt: It shows:
Fig. 1: eine REM Aufnähme einer Voremulsion vor der fermentation und .. . . Fig. 1: a REM recording a pre-emulsion before fermentation and ... ,
Fig. 2: eine REM Aufnahme der multilamellaren Strukturen nach der fermentation . 2 shows a SEM image of the multilamellar structures after fermentation.
Bei der erfindungsmäßigen, biotechnologischen Herstellung wird zunächst eine Voremülsion : mit überwiegend Tröpfchenform erzeugt, welche dann durch Zusatz von Mikrokulturen: über einen Zeitraum von mehreren Tagen vollständig in eine multilamellare Membran Struktur übergeht. Die Fig.. 1 zeigt eine solche Voremulsion 1 mit Tröpfchen 2 vor der Fermentation. Durch dieIn the case of the biotechnological preparation according to the invention, a pre-emulsion is initially produced : with a predominantly droplet shape, which then completely changes into a multilamellar membrane structure over a period of several days by the addition of microcultures. FIG. 1 shows such a pre-emulsion 1 with droplets 2 before the fermentation. By the
Fermentation entstehen multilamellare Strukturen 3, die. in Fig. 2 abgebildet sind. Fermentation arise multilamellar structures 3, the. are shown in Fig. 2.
Eies ist deutlich an einem Viskositätsanstieg der: Voremulsion, nach; fortschreitender Fermentierung erkennbar. This is clearly due to an increase in viscosity of the: pre-emulsion, after; progressing fermentation recognizable.
Viskositätsverlauf: Viscosity profile:
Die anfänglich flüssige, milchige Konsistenz, geht bei fortschreitender Fermentierung in eine cremige Konsistenz über, was nu durch den Übergang von. einer Tröpfchenform in eine multilamellare Struktur zu erklären ist.  The initially liquid, milky consistency turns into a creamy consistency as the fermentation progresses, which is now evidenced by the transition from. of a droplet form into a multilamellar structure.
Anfangsviskösität der emulgierten Mischung: 100 mPas Viskosität nach 3 Tagen Reifung bei 18-23°C 1.200 mPas Viskosität nach 4 Tagen Reifung bei 18-23°C 2.000 mPas Viskosität nach 5 Tagen Reifung bei 18-23°C 4.000 mPas Initial Viscosity of the Emulsified Mixture: 100 mPas Viscosity after 3 days Maturation at 18-23 ° C 1,200 mPas Viscosity after 4 days Maturation at 18-23 ° C 2,000 mPas Viscosity after 5 days Maturation at 18-23 ° C 4,000 mPas
Durch diese biotechnische Art der Herstellung von Membran Struktur Präparaten, können diese ferner als 100% biologisch bzw. als probiotische oder präbiotische Präparate deklariert werden . By this biotechnical way of producing membrane structure preparations, they can also be declared as 100% biological or as probiotic or prebiotic preparations.
Im Folgenden sind mehrere vorteilhafte Zusammensetzungen für das erfindungsgemäße Verfahren beschrieben. Alle Prozentangaben sind dabei als Volumenprozente zu verstehen. Several advantageous compositions for the process according to the invention are described below. All percentages are to be understood as percentages by volume.
Beispiel 1 : Example 1 :
-Herstellung einer Membran ' Struktur Creme mittels- Fermentation durch: Hefe-Kulturen :  -Making a membrane 'structure cream by means of fermentation by: yeast cultures:
2% Phosphatidylchol in hydriert 2% phosphatidylchol in hydrogenated
25% Mandelöl  25% almond oil
3% Sheabutter  3% shea butter
5% Glucose  5% glucose
65% Wasser  65% water
Beispiel 2 Example 2
Herstellung eines Membran Struktur Konzentrates durch Fermentation mit einer Mischung aus; Lactobakterien und_ Hefen r....  Preparation of a membrane structure concentrate by fermentation with a mixture of; Lactobacteria and yeasts r ....
24% Phosphatidylcholin hydriert Hydrogenated 24% phosphatidylcholine
24% Neutralöl (mittelkettige Triglyceride) 24% neutral oil (medium chain triglycerides)
5% Glucose 5% glucose
2% Lactose 2% lactose
45% Wasser Herstellverfahren: 45% water manufacturing:
Die Komponenten werden auf 70-80°C erhitzt und mit üblichem Homogenisierwerkzeug homogenisiert. Nach Abkühlen der Mischung auf 20°C werden der Emulsion mit flüssiger Konsistenz ca. 0,5- 1% einer Mischung aus Bakterien- und Hefekulturen zugemischt und die Mischung 3-7 Tage bei gleichbleibender Temperatur von 18°-23°C gelagert.: Der Bioreaktor ist so gestaltet, dass eine anaerobe Gärung, also unter Luftabschluss stattfinden kann und entstehendes Kohlendioxid entweichen kann.  The components are heated to 70-80 ° C and homogenized with conventional homogenizer. After cooling the mixture to 20.degree. C., about 0.5-1% of a mixture of bacterial and yeast cultures are added to the liquid-consistency emulsion and the mixture is stored for 3-7 days at a constant temperature of 18-23.degree. The bioreactor is designed so that anaerobic fermentation can take place, ie under exclusion of air, and the resulting carbon dioxide can escape.
Die Bakterienkulturen bestehen hauptsächlich ausThe bacterial cultures consist mainly of
Milchsäurebakterien der Arten Lactobacillus acidophilus, Lactobacillus bulgaricus, Lactobacillus brevis undLactobacilli of the species Lactobacillus acidophilus, Lactobacillus bulgaricus, Lactobacillus brevis and
Streptococcus lactis. Die Hefen; sind vor allem Saccharomyces cerevisae, Candida utillis und Kluyveromyces lactis. Streptococcus lactis. The yeasts; are mainly Saccharomyces cerevisae, Candida utillis and Kluyveromyces lactis.
Beispiel 3 Example 3
Herstellung einer Tages-Creme mittels eines vorfermentierten Membran Struktur Konzentrates :  Preparation of a day cream by means of a pre-fermented membrane structure concentrate:
10 % MS-Konzentrat (MS 24 KbA) 10% MS-concentrate (MS 24 KbA)
35 % Mandelöl raf . 35% almond oil raf.
5 % Pentylene Glycol nat . :: 5% pentylene glycol nat. ::
0,2% Na-Hyaluronat 0.2% Na-hyaluronate
2 % Algen Extrakt  2% algae extract
0., 3 % Parfümöl 0 . , 3% perfume oil
47,5% Wasser dem 47.5% water
Herstellung :. Production:.
Alle Komponenten- können kalt, bei Raumtemperatur, ungeachtet der Reihenfolge zusammengegeben werden und mittels eines Rührstabes o. Ä. vermischt bzw. homogenisiert werden. Durch die Kaltherstellung können die Herstellkosten und der Platzbedarf für eine Produktion erheblich reduziert werden. Hitzeempfindliche Wirkstoffe können sofort eingearbeitet werden. All components can be combined cold, at room temperature, regardless of the order and by means of a stir bar or the like. be mixed or homogenized. By cold manufacturing, the manufacturing costs and the space required for a production can be significantly reduced. Heat-sensitive substances can be incorporated immediately.
Diese Beispielrezeptur : zeigt eine sehr schöne Konsistenz und eine sehr gute : Lagestabilität von mehr als 30 Monaten. Sie weist außerdem eine vollständige larr.ellare Struktur auf, wodurch, sie optimal, von der Haut aufgenommen wird und deren Schutzbarriere verstärkt. This example recipe: shows a very nice consistency and a very good: storage stability of more than 30 months. It also has a complete larval structure, which optimally absorbs it and enhances its protective barrier.
/ Ansprüche / Claims

Claims

Ansprüche claims
Verfahren zur Herstellung von Präparaten zur topischen Anwendung für kosmetische oder pharmazeutische Produkte, dadurch gekennzeichnet, dass eine Mischung aus Process for the preparation of preparations for topical use for cosmetic or pharmaceutical products, characterized in that a mixture of
0 , 1-30% Phosphatidylcholin, vorzugsweise hydriertes 0,5-50% Pflanzliche Öle und/oder Fette und/oder Wachs 10-90% Wasser- und/oder wasserhaltige: Pflanzenauszüge 0,1-20% Mono- oder Polysaccharide vermischt und homogenisiert wird, : vorzugsweise bei einer Temperatur von 40-90°C, anschließend auf 10-40 °C abgekühlt wird und dann mit Bakterien- und/oder Hefekulturen versetzt wird. 0, 1-30% phosphatidylcholine, preferably hydrogenated 0.5-50% vegetable oils and / or fats and / or wax 10-90% water and / or water-containing: plant extracts 0.1-20% mono- or polysaccharides mixed and is homogenized, preferably at a temperature of 40-90 ° C, then cooled to 10-40 ° C and then treated with bacterial and / or Hefekulturen.
Verfahren nach Anspruch 1, dadurch gekennzeichnet, dass der Mischung Bakterienkulturen aus der Familie der Laktobakterien zugesetzt werden. A method according to claim 1, characterized in that the mixture bacterial cultures from the family of lactobacteria are added.
Verfahren nach Anspruch 1 der 2, dadurch gekennzeichnet, dass der Mischung Hefekulturen aus der Familie- der Saccharomycyten und/oder Candida utillis und/oder Kluyveromyces lactis zugesetzt werden. A method according to claim 1 of 2, characterized in that the yeast mixtures are added to the mixture of the family of the Saccharomycyten and / or Candida utillis and / or Kluyveromyces lactis.
Verfahren nach einem der Ansprüche 1 bis 3, dadurch gekennzeichnet,: dass der Mischung vor oder nach: derMethod according to one of claims 1 to 3, characterized in that the mixture before or after: the
Fermentation kosmetische und/oder pharmazeutische Wirkstoffe zugesetzt werden. Fermentation cosmetic and / or pharmaceutical agents are added.
Verfahren nach einem der Ansprüche 1 bis 4, dadurch gekennzeichnet, dass der Mischung Auszüge der Pflanze Edelweiss (Leontopodium Alpinum) hinzugefügt werden. Method according to one of claims 1 to 4, characterized in that the mixture extracts the plant Edelweiss (Leontopodium Alpinum) can be added.
Verfahren nach einem der Ansprüche 1 bis 4, dadurch gekennzeichnet, dass der Mischung Auszüge der Pflanze Pistacius Lentiscus hinzugefügt werden. Method according to one of claims 1 to 4, characterized in that extracts of the plant Pistacius Lentiscus are added to the mixture.
Verfahren nach einem der Ansprüche 1 bis 4, dadurch gekennzeichnet, dass der Mischung Auszüge aus Algen, insbesondere; der Gattung Laminaria ochroleuca und/oder Alaria Esculenta und/oder Mikroalgen, hinzugefügt werden. Method according to one of claims 1 to 4, characterized in that the mixture extracts of algae, in particular; of the genus Laminaria ochroleuca and / or Alaria esculenta and / or microalgae.
Verfahren nach einem der . Ansprüche: i bis 4, dadurch gekennzeichnet, dass der Mischung Pflanzenkernöle , insbesondere Traubenkernöl und/oder Cranberrysamenöl und/oder Hagebuttenkernöl , und/oder Mandelöl und/oder Arganöl zugefügt werden. Method according to one of . Claims: i to 4, characterized in that the plant seed oils, in particular grapeseed oil and / or cranberry oil and / or rosehip seed oil, and / or almond oil and / or argan oil are added to the mixture.
Verfahren nach: einem der Ansprüche: 1 bis 4 , dadurch gekennzeichnet, dass der Mischung Hyaluronsäure bzw. Na- Hyaluronat hinzugefügt wird. Method according to one of claims 1 to 4, characterized in that hyaluronic acid or Na hyaluronate is added to the mixture.
Verfahren nach einem der Ansprüche 1 bis 4, dadurch gekennzeichnet, dass der Mischung Pflanzenauszüge aus : Aloe und/oder Schachtelhalm zugesetzt werden. Method according to one of claims 1 to 4, characterized in that the mixture are added to plant extracts of : aloe and / or horsetail.
Verfahren nach einem der Ansprüche 1 bis 4, dadurch gekennzeichnet , : dass der Mischung; Vitamine und/oderMethod according to one of claims 1 to 4, characterized in that: the mixture; Vitamins and / or
Provitamine und/oder Enzyme und/oder Coenzyme und/oderProvitamins and / or enzymes and / or coenzymes and / or
Proteine zugesetzt werden. Proteins are added.
Verfahren nach einem der Ansprüche 1 bis 11, dadurch gekennzeichnet, dass sich durch die Fermentation bzw. durch die Reäktionsprodukte der Fermentation: multilamellare Schichten ausbilden. Method according to one of claims 1 to 11, characterized in that the fermentation or by the reaction products of the fermentation: form multilamellar layers.
13. Verfahren nach einem der Ansprüche 1 bis 12, dadurch gekennzeichnet, dass die Mikroorganismen nach beendeter Fermentation inaktiviert (abgetötet) werden und das fertige Produkt keine lebenden Keime mehr enthält. 13. The method according to any one of claims 1 to 12, characterized in that the microorganisms are inactivated after completion of fermentation (killed) and the finished product no longer contains living germs.
Verfahren nach einem der Ansprüche 1 bis : 13 , dadurch gekennzeichnet,: dass das Endprodukt eine höhe Konzentration an aktiven Bakterien und/oder Hefen enthält, welche eine Besiedelung mit pathogenen Keimen, verhindern . Method according to one of claims 1 to 13, characterized in that the end product contains a high concentration of active bacteria and / or yeasts which prevent colonization with pathogenic germs.
Verfahren nach einem der Ansprüche 1 bis 14, dadurch gekennzeichnet, dass zuerst ein Konzentrat hergestellt wird, welches zu einem späteren Zeitpunkt mit hydrophilen und/oder lipophilen Komponenten und Wirkstoffen versetzt wird und zu einem kosmetischen oder dermatologischen: Präparat verarbeitet wird. Method according to one of claims 1 to 14, characterized in that first a concentrate is prepared, which is added at a later time with hydrophilic and / or lipophilic components and active ingredients and processed into a cosmetic or dermatological : preparation.
Zusammensetzung für kosmetische oder pharmazeutische Produkte, enthaltend Composition for cosmetic or pharmaceutical products containing
0,1-30% Phosphatidylcholin, vorzugsweise hydriertes  0.1-30% phosphatidylcholine, preferably hydrogenated
0,5-50% Pflanzliche Öle und/oder Fette und/oder Wachse 10-90% Wasser- und/oder wasserhaltige Pflanzenauszüge 0 , 1-20% Mono- oder Polysaccharide  0.5-50% vegetable oils and / or fats and / or waxes 10-90% water and / or hydrous plant extracts 0, 1-20% mono- or polysaccharides
Bakterien- und/oder Hefekulturen  Bacterial and / or yeast cultures
Zusammensetzung nach Anspruch 16 , dadurch gekennzeichnet, dass die [ Bakterienkulturen aus der Familie der Laktobakterien sind. Composition according to Claim 16, characterized in that the bacterial cultures are of the lactobacteria family.
18 , Zusammensetzung nach Anspruch .16 oder 17, dadurch gekennzeichnet, dass die Hefekulturen aus. der Familie de Saccharomycyten und/oder Candida utillis und/ode Kluyveromyces lactis sind. 18, composition according to claim 16 or 17, characterized characterized in that the yeast cultures off. of the family de Saccharomycyten and / or Candida utillis and / or Kluyveromyces lactis.
Zusammensetzung nach einem der Ansprüche 16 bis 18, dadurch1 gekennzeichnet, dass der Mischung- vor oder nach der Fermentation kosmetische und/oder pharmazeutische Wirkstoffe zugesetzt sind. Composition according to one of claims 16 to 18, characterized in 1 that the Mischung- are added before or after fermentation cosmetic and / or pharmaceutical active ingredients.
20. Zusammensetzung nach einem der Ansprüche 16 bis 19, dadurch gekennzeichnet, dass der Mischung Auszüge der Pflanze Edelweiss (Leontopodium Alpinum) hinzugefügt sind. 20. The composition according to any one of claims 16 to 19, characterized in that the mixture extracts of the plant Edelweiss (Leontopodium Alpinum) are added.
21.. Zusammensetzung nach einem der Ansprüche 16 bis 19, dadurch gekennzeichnet, dass der Mischung Auszüge der Pflanze Pistacius Lentiscus , auch Mastix oder Mastiha genannt, hinzugefügt sind. 21 . , Composition according to any one of Claims 16 to 19, characterized in that extracts of the pistachio lentiscus plant, also called mastic or mastiha, are added to the mixture.
22. Zusammensetzung nach einem der Ansprüche 16 bis 19, dadurch gekennzeichnet, dass der Mischung Auszüge aus Algen, insbesondere der Gattung : Läminaria ochroleuca und/oder Alaria Esc lenta und/oder Mikroalgen hinzugefügt sind. 22. The composition according to any one of claims 16 to 19, characterized in that the mixture extracts of algae, in particular of the genus : Läminaria ochroleuca and / or Alaria Esc lenta and / or microalgae are added.
23 Zusammensetzung nach einem der Ansprüche 16 bis 19, dadurch gekennzeichnet, dass der Mischung Pflanzenkernole , insbesondere; Traubenkernöl und/oder Cranberrysamenöl und/oder Hagebuttenkernöl , und/oder Mandelöl und/oder Arganöl zugefügt sind. Composition according to any one of Claims 16 to 19, characterized in that the mixture contains plant kernels, in particular; Grapeseed oil and / or cranberry seed oil and / or rose hip seed oil, and / or almond oil and / or argan oil are added.
2.4 Zusammensetzung nach einem der Ansprüche 16 bis 19, dadurch gekennzeichnet, dass der Mischung Hyaluronsäure bzw. Na-Hyaluronat hinzugefügt sind. 2.4 Composition according to one of claims 16 to 19, characterized in that the mixture hyaluronic acid or Na-hyaluronate are added.
25. Zusammensetzung nach einem der Ansprüche 16 bis 19, dadurch gekennzeichnet, dass der Mischung Pflanzenauszüge aus Aloe und/oder Schachtelhalm: zugesetzt sind. 25. The composition according to any one of claims 16 to 19, characterized in that the mixture plant extracts of aloe and / or horsetail: are added.
Zusammensetzung nach einem der Ansprüche 16 bis .19, dadurch gekennzeichnet,. dass der; Mischung Vitamine und/öder Provitamine und/oder Enzyme und/oder Coenzyme und/oder Proteine zugesetzt sind. Composition according to any one of Claims 16 to 19, characterized. that the; Mixtures of vitamins and / or provitamins and / or enzymes and / or coenzymes and / or proteins are added.
27 Zusammensetzung nach . einem der Ansprüche 16 bis 26, dadurch gekennzeichnet, dass durch die Fermentation bzw. durch die Reaktionsprodukte der Fermentation multilamellare Schichten ausgebildet sind. 27 composition according to. one of claims 16 to 26, characterized in that formed by the fermentation or by the reaction products of the fermentation multilamellar layers.
28 Zusammensetzung: nach einem der Ansprüche 16 bis 27, dadurch: gekennzeichnet, dass. die Mikroorganismen nach beendeter Fermentation inaktiviert (abgetötet) werden und das fertige Produkt keine lebenden Keime mehr enthält. 28 Composition: according to one of claims 16 to 27, characterized in that. The microorganisms are inactivated (killed) after completion of fermentation and the finished product no longer contains living germs.
29 Zusammensetzung nach einem der Ansprüche 16 bis; 27, dadurch gekennzeichnet, dass das Endprodukt eine hohe Konzentration an aktiven Bakterien und/oder Hefen enthält , welche eine Besiedelung mit pathogenen Keimen verhindern A composition according to any one of claims 16 to; 27, characterized in that the end product contains a high concentration of active bacteria and / or yeast, which prevent colonization with pathogenic germs
30 Zusammensetzung nach einem der Ansprüche 16 bis 29, dadurch gekennzeichnet,. dass zuerst ein Konzentrat hergestellt wird, welches zu einem späteren Zeitpunkt mit hydrophilen und/oder lipophilen Komponenten und Wirkstoffen versetzt wird und zu einem kosmetischen oder dermatologischen Präparat verarbeitet wird:. Composition according to any one of Claims 16 to 29, characterized. in that first a concentrate is produced, which at a later time is mixed with hydrophilic and / or lipophilic components and active ingredients and is processed to a cosmetic or dermatological preparation:
/Zusammenfassung /Summary
PCT/EP2016/001708 2015-10-16 2016-10-14 Composition and method for producing dermatological and cosmetic preparations having pronounced lamellar structures using phosphatidycholine and fermentation by microorganisms WO2017063748A1 (en)

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