WO2016108773A1 - Tissu denim présentant une face d'endroit en denim et une face d'envers en éponge - Google Patents

Tissu denim présentant une face d'endroit en denim et une face d'envers en éponge Download PDF

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Publication number
WO2016108773A1
WO2016108773A1 PCT/TR2014/000536 TR2014000536W WO2016108773A1 WO 2016108773 A1 WO2016108773 A1 WO 2016108773A1 TR 2014000536 W TR2014000536 W TR 2014000536W WO 2016108773 A1 WO2016108773 A1 WO 2016108773A1
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WO
WIPO (PCT)
Prior art keywords
warp
weft
yarns
yarn
fabric
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Application number
PCT/TR2014/000536
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English (en)
Inventor
Atif ŞIRIKÇI
Original Assignee
Şi̇ri̇kçi̇oğlu Mensucat Sanayi̇ Ve Ti̇caret Anoni̇m Şi̇rketi̇
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Application filed by Şi̇ri̇kçi̇oğlu Mensucat Sanayi̇ Ve Ti̇caret Anoni̇m Şi̇rketi̇ filed Critical Şi̇ri̇kçi̇oğlu Mensucat Sanayi̇ Ve Ti̇caret Anoni̇m Şi̇rketi̇
Priority to PCT/TR2014/000536 priority Critical patent/WO2016108773A1/fr
Publication of WO2016108773A1 publication Critical patent/WO2016108773A1/fr

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Classifications

    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D03—WEAVING
    • D03D—WOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
    • D03D1/00—Woven fabrics designed to make specified articles
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D03—WEAVING
    • D03D—WOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
    • D03D13/00—Woven fabrics characterised by the special disposition of the warp or weft threads, e.g. with curved weft threads, with discontinuous warp threads, with diagonal warp or weft
    • D03D13/008—Woven fabrics characterised by the special disposition of the warp or weft threads, e.g. with curved weft threads, with discontinuous warp threads, with diagonal warp or weft characterised by weave density or surface weight
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D03—WEAVING
    • D03D—WOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
    • D03D15/00—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used
    • D03D15/50—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the properties of the yarns or threads
    • D03D15/56—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the properties of the yarns or threads elastic
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D10—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B2501/00—Wearing apparel
    • D10B2501/04—Outerwear; Protective garments

Definitions

  • the present invention is related to fabrics which are called denim or blue jeans.
  • the invention is particularly related to the denim fabric obtained by the arrangements of the warp and weft and the meshes whose back face is similar to towel, and thus relates to denim fabric where appearance and wear comfort are obtained
  • This product provides many advantageous features such as wear comfort, flexibility, and a double layer fabric feature whose back face is towel-looking, preventing the contact of indigo dyed yarns with the skin or other clothes, easiness, comfort etc.
  • the fabrics which are called as denim or blue jeans are the fabrics woven in various meshes from the yarns made of cotton, polyester, nylon, viscose, lycra and of various unit weights and whose the warp yarn is dyed blue indigo and the weft is undyed (raw).
  • Blue jeans are produced from the denim fabric dyed with indigo. Jeans become ready to be packed after the cutting, sewing, washing, rinsing, drying, and ironing processes. Washing, which is one of the most important in these processes, gives different colors and effects to the fabric. According to the desired effect to be exerted, the jeans undergo various treatments after pre-washing.
  • Indigo is a dyestuff produced from the leaves of the "indigofera tinctoria" plant. Indigo, the utilization of which dates back to 1600 BC, was found in India, Indonesia, China and Africa. The blue indigo has gray, green and red tones. Paint manufacturers are making attempts in different colors with the indigo dye properties. However, the attempts have failed so far and fading of color could not be provided and fiber penetration could not been blocked. Since indigo does not penetrate into the yarn at once, immersion of the yarn into an indigo tank is repeated until the desired tone is obtained. The more the immersion is repeated the darker the color is obtained. After the dyeing process, the defunct dyestuff is removed from the yarn by using washing techniques.
  • the fabric is cleansed from the required materials for weaving and ready- made clothing. After that it is washed with "pumice stone” until the desired color is obtained.
  • This stone has an abrasive effect on the fabric and has an anti-adhesive effect for color to stick onto the fabric again.
  • the contrast between blue and white is increased by using chemical processes.
  • the bleaching process the quantity of chemicals is increased and the color changes to blue ice.
  • bleaching of certain regions is provided by spraying in private cabins.
  • the object of the invention considering the state of the art is the development of a new denim fabric in which the existing disadvantages of the structure are removed and the back face is towel-looking and has the comfort of towel.
  • Another object of the invention is to develop a fabric providing comfort for the user of the clothing. Another object of the invention is to provide the healthy use of jeans due to its flexible and formfitting fabric.
  • Another object of the invention is to provide wear comfort, flexibility, double layer fabric feature whose back face is towel-looking, prevention of the contact of indigo dyed yarns with skin or other clothes, easiness and comfort.
  • Another object of the invention is that the developed denim fabric is able to be used on clothing such as pants, shirts, coat etc.
  • Another object of the invention is the formation of loops whose back face is similar to towel due to the layout of the warp and wefts, thereby achieving the desired appearance and expected comfort on fabric.
  • the most common fabric pattern design used in denim is classic 3/1 Z twill. In the present invention front view is close to the classic 3/1 Z twill view and back face is also seen as towel pattern.
  • Figure-1 is a drawing of the front view of the fabric weave report in a representative application of the invention.
  • Figure-2 is a drawing of the back view of the fabric weave report in a representative application of the invention.
  • Figure-3 is a drawing of the knitting pattern in a representative application of the invention.
  • Figure-4 is the drawing that indicates the knitting structure in a representative application of the invention.
  • the inventive denim fabric provides the desired appearance on fabric and wear comfort due to the formation of loops whose back face is similar to towel and arising out of layouts of the warp yarn (1) and weft yarns (2).
  • FIG.-1 and Figure-2 it is the front and rear view of the unit knitting report (pattern) of the inventive fabric.
  • 10 warp yarns (1) and 15 weft yarns (2) conduct differently E1 , E2, E3 ... represents weft yarns (2) in woven fabric.
  • A1 , A2, A3 ... represents warp yarns (1) in woven fabric.
  • the warp yarn (1) is comprised of 3,610 strings, 20 combed cotton slubs and 100% cotton yarns. Total quantity of warp strings is 7,220.
  • the warp yarn (1) is dyed by using deep blue- colored indigo and sulfur dye mixtures in the warp dyeing machine and then brought to the weaving after slushing.
  • the weft yarn (2) is comprised of 2, 30 combed cotton 44 dtex Core Spun (3.5 elastane inflected) and 1 , 16 ring carded yarn.
  • the Flat process is performed on the woven raw fabric in the finishing process (fabric brushing, burning, caustic washing, neutralization, drying, sizing, and finishing and non-shrink finish operations).
  • the warp density for the comb 37.5 ⁇ 2 counts/cm
  • mechanically woven fabric weft density 33 ⁇ 2 counts/cm
  • raw clothing weft density 34 ⁇ 2 counts/cm
  • finished fabric weft density 39 ⁇ 2 counts/cm
  • finished fabric weight 9.5 ⁇ 0.5 oz/sqyd
  • finished fabric width 130 ⁇ 3 cm
  • the warps A1 - A2 - A3 - A5 - A6 - A7 - A8 - A10 are above, the - A4 - A9 are below, E3 weft is filled on 30 combed cotton 44 dtex core spun weft.
  • A2 - A3 - A4 - A5 - A7 - A8 - A9 - A10 are above, the warps
  • the warps A1 - A2 - A3 - A4 - A6 - A7 - A8 - A9 are above, the warps - A5 - A 0 are below, the weft E7 is filled on 30 combed cotton 44 dtex core spun weft.
  • the warps A1 In the 7 th step, the warps A1 - A2 - A3 - A4 - A6 - A7 - A8 - A9 are above, the warps - A5 - A 0 are below, the weft E7 is filled on 30 combed cotton 44 dtex core spun weft.
  • the warps A1 the warps A1 - A2 - A3 - A4 - A6 - A7 - A8 - A9 are above, the warps - A5 - A 0 are below, the weft E7 is filled on 30 combed cotton 44 dtex core spun weft.
  • A9 - A10 are above, the warps - A2 - A7 are below, the weft A9 is filled on 30 combed cotton 44 dtex core spun weft.
  • the warps A1 - A2 - A3 - A5 - A6 - A7 - A8 - A10 are above, the warps - A4 - A9 are below, the weft E10 is filled on 30 combed cotton 44 dtex core spun weft.
  • the warps A1 - A2 - A3 - A4 - A5 - A7 - A8 - A9 - A10 are above, the warp - A6 is below, the weft E11 is filled on 16 Ring carded weft.
  • the warps A2 - A3 - A4 - A5 - A7 - A8 - A9 - A10 are above, the warps - A1 - A6 are below, the weft E12 is filled on 30 combed cotton 44 dtex core spun weft.
  • the warps A1 - A2 - A4 - A5 - A6 A7 - ⁇ 9.- ⁇ 10 are above, the warps - A3 - A8 are below, and the weft E13 is filled on 30 combed cotton 44 dtex core spun weft.
  • the warps A1 - A2 - A3 - A4 - A5 - A6 - A7 - A8 - A9 are ' above, the warp - A10 is below, the weft E14 is filled on 16 Ring carded weft.
  • the warps A1 - A2 - A3 - A4 - A6 - A7 - A8 - A9 are above, the warps - A5 - A10 are below, the weft E15 is filled on 30 combed cotton 44 dtex core spun weft.
  • Warp density 37.5 counts/cm comb density
  • a denim fabric is comprised of a front face and a back face. It is comprised of weaving pattern in which the warp yarn (1) and the weft yarn (2) is woven together. ( Figure-1 , 2, and 3)
  • the warp yarn (1) is indigo and/or sulfur dyed.
  • the weft yarn (1) is comprised of at least one straight/rigid weft and/or an elastomeric weft.
  • two elastomeric weft yarn (2) are aligned with one rigid/straight yarn.
  • the yarn can be aligned in different forms without going beyond the concept.
  • the ratio of elastomeric yarn to rigid/straight yarn may be 2:1 or 1 :2. 1 :3 or 3:1 etc. may be preferred.
  • the ratio of the yarn does not have to be regular or be the same throughout the fabric.
  • the weaving of the fabric is as from the bottom of the warp yarn (1) to top side.
  • the bottom parts are shaped by the rigid/straight yarn passing behind its warp and defined as a loop.
  • the ⁇ formation is shown in Figure-3 and Figure-4.
  • the upper parts are shaped by the rigid/straight yarn passing over its warp and are defined as connected parts. Warp yarn is indicated on the upper side with (X) and the weft yarn is indicated on the upper side with (.)
  • the count of warp yarn (1) can be preferred between 5-50 Ne (British Numbering System Delicacy Unit).
  • the count, the color and the slub effect of the whole warp yarn through which the loops pass do not need to be same.
  • the count of warp yarn passing through the loop is at least 5 Ne. Warp count may change without changing the concept.
  • the weft count which the rigid yarn passes from the rear surface should be at least 5.
  • the loops are passed below the 9 warp yarns and passed over one warp yarn (1).
  • the rigid/straight yarns (16 ring carded) pass over 9 warp yarns (1) and a weft. This combination may be changed without ruining the concept.
  • the loops of rigid/straight yarns are less stretched than the elastomeric weft yarns (2).
  • the loops provide a towel appearance on the fabric. If these loops are made from soft cotton yarns, a fabric having a soft and comfortable rear surface is produced.
  • the other advantage of these loops on the rear surface of the fabric is to prevent the contact of warp yarns (1 ) with the skin. This is important since the warp yarns (1) are indigo-dyed. If the indigo-dyed yarn contacts to the wearers, the skin or clothing may be colored.
  • the loops extends to the weft and warp yarns (1 , 2) in the transverse direction.
  • the connection parts extend to the weft and warp yarns (1 , 2) in the transverse direction.
  • the rigid/straight yarns in the pattern may be more different than the elastomeric yarns. Together with the other types of the chosen pattern for elastomeric yarns, stretching in a transverse direction is allowed related to the weaving pattern and/or yarn choice and weft and warp yarns (2, 1).
  • the other features defining the layout and arrangement of warp and weft yarns (1 , 2) besides appearance, touch, stretching etc. of the fabric is the density of the warp threads (1) or weft threads (2) with one another.
  • the density of warp yarns (1) before shrinking is approximately between 20-60 warp yarn/cm.
  • the preferred warp density is approximately 25-75 warp yarn/cm.
  • the home washing is performed at 60°C, then dried and left conditioning for eight hours. These tests are performed according to ASTM D 3776/96 and BS 63302A techniques. Even if the warp density is preferred after weaving, it becomes approximately 25-70 warp yarn/cm (after 3 home washings) after shrinking.
  • the warp density becomes 28-80 yarns/cm after weaving, and becomes 30-85 yarns/cm (after 3 home washings).
  • the weft yarn (2) and warp yarn (1) density measurements are performed under the conditions of 65% humidity ( ⁇ 5%) and 20°C ( ⁇ 2%). We can define the weft density similar to warp density. After weaving, before shrinking, the weft density becomes 28-80 yarns/cm. It becomes 30-96 yarns/cm after 3 home washings. The preferred weft density after weaving and before shrinking is 35-85 yarns/cm. It becomes 40-90 yarns/cm after 3 home washings.
  • the warp and weft density not only gives fabric behavior property to the fabric that has a towel-looking back face but also brings in different weights.
  • the ratio of average count of warp yarns passing through the loop portion to a warp density is approximately between 0.1 and 1.0.
  • the ratio of warp yarns (1) passing through the loop portion to the average weft count is between 1-25. The other point is the thickness of weft and warp yarn (2, 1). Because the elastomeric yarns should be synthetic or Core spun.
  • the fineness of synthetic yarn is defined as the denier fineness unit
  • the warp and rigid weft yarns are defined with Ne.
  • the warp, the rigid weft and elastomeric weft yarns (2) may have different thicknesses and elastomeric yarns may have a smaller thickness than rigid/straight yarns.
  • the warp yarn number is preferred between Ne 5 - Ne 50.
  • the rigid/straight yarns are preferred between Ne 8 - Ne 80.
  • the elastomeric yarns may be preferred between about 15 - 50 Ne or 40 - 200 denier. If desired, 60 - 100 denier may be chosen.
  • We may provide various advantages choosing the yarn thicknesses in the original concept. For example if the thickness of the rigid/straight yarn is greater than that of the elastomeric yarn, we hide the loop portions better and reduce its being felt. Choosing the correct yarn thickness affects the sensing of the fabric as conventional denim or a towel fabric and the weight property, shrinkage values etc.
  • Figure-1 and Figure-2 are two perspectives of the original concept. The fabric can be considered as having two weavings.
  • the first weaving is generally comprised of the structure being firmly woven from warp yarns (1) and elastomeric wefts (2) from the front face of the fabric.
  • the second weaving is generally comprised of back face and warp yarns (1) and firmly woven rigid weft yarns (2).
  • This rigid weft yarn (2) is comprised of lower portion and upper portion. The lower portion is formed by the rigid weft yarn (2) passed behind the warp yarn (1). Upper portion is formed by the rigid weft yarn (2) passed over the warp. As shown in the figure, each loop passes under 9 warps, but in a different example, this number may change.
  • the first step of the process is the warp yarn (1).
  • This step may comprise the selection of the thickness or the density of the warp. Generally the choice is the indigo-dyed warp yarn (1).
  • the shrinked warp yarns (1) are dyed in the form of warp or rope.
  • the rigid/straight warp yarn (2) is provided.
  • This step may comprise any aspect of the yarn. It is not limited to the fineness, the shrinkage ratio, elasticity, color, weft density, winding value, and fiber type etc. of the yam.
  • This step represents the step related to the weft yarn (2).
  • This step may comprise any aspect of the yarn. It is not limited to the fineness, the shrinkage ratio, elasticity, elastane number, color, weft density, winding value, and fiber type etc. of the yarn.
  • This step is the determination of the template.
  • the template is chosen, and at least one rigid/straight yarn and at least one elastomeric yarn is arranged. Rigid/straight yarns pass behind/over the warps as wicker in order to form the alignment of the lower and upper portions according to determined template. Weaving:
  • Weaving is performed using warp and weft yarns according to the determined template/pattern with the determined frequency.
  • This step is related to the shrinkage of the fabric after weaving.
  • Elastomeric yarns shrink more by comparison with rigid/straight yarns (to make the loop patterns with rigid/straight yarns on the lower portion of the fabric).
  • Shrinking occurs when the fabric is removed from the weaving loom.
  • shrinking can be applied to the fabric during the finishing process.
  • the finishing process of the fabric is over dyeing in various colors, the finishing process comprises various dyeing and shrinking process steps.
  • a fabric has first weaving and second weaving. First weaving is the front face of the fabric and comprises warp yarn (1) and firmly woven elastomeric weft yarns (2) of the fabric.
  • the second weaving is the back surface of the fabric and comprises the warp yarns (1 ) and loosely woven rigid yarns.
  • the second weaving on the back surface of the fabric covers the warp and elastomeric yarns, it is difficult to see and feel these yarns on the rear surface.
  • a woven fabric comprising weft and warp yarn (2, 1) are extended onto the chosen warp yarns (1) in order to form the upper portion of the weft yarns (2) and then extended to the bottom part from the adjacent yarn.
  • the second weft yarns (2) have greater shrinking ratio than the first weft yarns (2).
  • the second weft yarns (2) have greater knitting ratio than the second weft yarns (2).
  • the fabric production method is shown in Figure-1 and Figure-2.
  • the unit report of the pattern is described according to the weft alignment.
  • the unit report is applied on all warp and weft yarns (1 , 2).
  • the connection shapes of warp yarn (1) and weft yarn (2), side views and loop formation are shown in Figure-3 and Figure-4.
  • Warp yarn is indicated on the upper side (X) and the weft yarn is indicated on the upper side with (.)
  • the connection of rigid weft or elastomeric wefts with warp yarns (1) are given as an example.
  • the fabric production comprises one of these applications: mercerize, caustic, over-dye coloring, bleaching, hand scraping, sandblasting, stone wash, printing, embroidery, brushing, grinding, etc. as further step comprises tailoring apparel.
  • Over dye denim fabric comprising at least one warp yarn (1) dyed in warp or rope, rigid/straight weft yarns (2) and/or elastomeric weft yarns (2), at least one rigid/straight yarn align behind/over the warps to form the upper and lower portions according to the determined shape as wicker, rigid/straight yarns extends over at least one elastomeric yarn, the warp and weft yams (1 , 2) formed according to the determined template/pattern which the weaving process is performed in determined frequency, extending to loops, warp and weft yarns (1 , 2) and/or warp yarns (1) passing from the loop portion which the ratio of average number to the warp density is between 1 and 1.0 and/or the warp yarn (1) which the density value before shrinking is about 20-60 warp yarn/cm and/or the weft yarn (2) which the weft density is about 28-80 yarns/cm after weaving, before shrinking.
  • connection parts extending in a transverse direction to the warp and weft yarn (2,1) allowing stretching in the transverse direction related to weft and warp yarn (1 ,2).
  • the looser loops by comparison with the weft yarn (2) that prevent the contact of the warp yarn (1) with the skin at the rear surface of the fabric comprise the loops of the rigid/straight yarns providing the rear side of the fabric to appear as a towel.
  • It comprises indigo and/or sulfur dyed warp yarns (1) between 5 and 50 Ne and weft yarns (2) comprised of at least one straight/rigid weft and/or an elastomeric weft.
  • It comprises warp density, 37.5 counts/cm comb density, 34 counts/cm in raw fabric, 39 counts/cm in ready fabric weft density.
  • At least one rigid/straight yarn is passed behind/over the warps according to the template, as wicker
  • connection parts which allow stretching in a transverse direction related to weft and warp yarns (2, 1) and extends to the weft and warp yarn (2, 1) in transverse direction
  • process steps such as mercerize, caustic, over-dye coloring, bleaching, hand scraping, sandblasting, stone wash, printing, embroidery, brushing, grinding.

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  • Engineering & Computer Science (AREA)
  • Textile Engineering (AREA)
  • Woven Fabrics (AREA)

Abstract

La présente invention concerne des tissus nommés denim ou blue jeans, caractérisés par un tissu denim surteint comprenant au moins un fil de chaîne (1) teinté dans la chaîne ou le cordage, des fils de trame rigides/droits (2) et/ou des fils de trame élastomères (2), au moins un fil rigide/droit aligné derrière/sur les chaînes pour former les parties supérieure et inférieure selon la forme déterminée en tressage wicker, des fils rigides/droits s'étendant sur au moins un fil élastomère, des fils de chaîne et des fils de trame (1, 2) formés selon le modèle/motif déterminé que le processus de tissage exécute selon une fréquence déterminée, s'étendant en boucles, des fils de chaîne et fils de trame (1, 2) et/ou des fils de chaîne (1) passant de la partie boucles dont le rapport nombre moyen/densité de chaîne est compris entre 1 et 1,0 et/ou le fil de chaîne (1) dont la valeur de densité avant rétraction est d'environ 20 à 60 fils de chaîne/cm et/ou le fil de trame (2) dont la densité de trame est d'environ 28 à 80 fils/cm après le tissage, avant rétraction.
PCT/TR2014/000536 2014-12-30 2014-12-30 Tissu denim présentant une face d'endroit en denim et une face d'envers en éponge WO2016108773A1 (fr)

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PCT/TR2014/000536 WO2016108773A1 (fr) 2014-12-30 2014-12-30 Tissu denim présentant une face d'endroit en denim et une face d'envers en éponge

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PCT/TR2014/000536 WO2016108773A1 (fr) 2014-12-30 2014-12-30 Tissu denim présentant une face d'endroit en denim et une face d'envers en éponge

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Cited By (2)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
CN106245186A (zh) * 2016-08-31 2016-12-21 佛山市立笙纺织有限公司 一种使用超柔纱和再生涤纶织造的牛仔面料及其工艺
CN112626679A (zh) * 2020-12-31 2021-04-09 山东兰雁纺织服装有限公司 一种高清晰斜纹轻薄牛仔面料及其制备方法

Citations (1)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
US20110212659A1 (en) * 2010-02-26 2011-09-01 Sanko Tekstil Isletmeleri Sanayi Ve Method of making woven fabric that performs like a knitted fabric

Patent Citations (2)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
US20110212659A1 (en) * 2010-02-26 2011-09-01 Sanko Tekstil Isletmeleri Sanayi Ve Method of making woven fabric that performs like a knitted fabric
US20130048140A1 (en) * 2010-02-26 2013-02-28 Sanko Tekstil Isletmeleri San. Ve Tic. A.S. Woven fabric that looks and performs like a knitted fabric and method of making thereof

Cited By (2)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
CN106245186A (zh) * 2016-08-31 2016-12-21 佛山市立笙纺织有限公司 一种使用超柔纱和再生涤纶织造的牛仔面料及其工艺
CN112626679A (zh) * 2020-12-31 2021-04-09 山东兰雁纺织服装有限公司 一种高清晰斜纹轻薄牛仔面料及其制备方法

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