WO2016096220A1

WO2016096220A1 - Ammonia and mineral-oil free bleaching agents with fatty alcohols

Info

Publication number: WO2016096220A1
Application number: PCT/EP2015/074947
Authority: WO
Inventors: Burkhard Müller; Udo Erkens; Sylvia KERL; Susanne Bietz
Original assignee: Henkel Ag & Co. Kgaa
Priority date: 2014-12-16
Filing date: 2015-10-28
Publication date: 2016-06-23
Also published as: DE102014225989A1

Abstract

The invention relates to agents which contain, with respect to the weight thereof - ≤ 0,1 wt.-% ammonia; ≤ 0,1 wt.-% white oil(s), 5 - 40 wt.-% of at least one fatty alcohol which is liquid at 25°C, 1 - 70 wt.% peroxodisulfate(s) from the group consisting of sodium peroxodisulfate and/or potassium peroxodisulfate and 1 - 15 wt.% metasilicate(s). Said agents being characterised by having an improved storage stability, wherein not only the physical stability (sedimentation, phase separation) but also the chemical stability (decomposition of thepersalt) is improved. The mixing capacity with dye-containing formulations is also clearly improved.

Description

"Ammonia- and mineral oil-free bleaching agent with fatty alcohols"

The present invention relates to agents for the oxidative color change in the field of cosmetics, which are particularly suitable for lightening keratinic fibers, especially human hair.

The oxidizing agents contained in Blondiermitteln are able to lighten the hair fiber by the oxidative destruction of the hair dye melanin. For a moderate blonding effect, the use of hydrogen peroxide - optionally with the use of ammonia or other alkalizing agents - as the oxidizing agent alone, for the achievement of a stronger Blondiereffektes usually a mixture of hydrogen peroxide and peroxodisulfate salts and / or Peroxomonosulfatsalzen is used.

For reasons of stability, commercially available bleaching agents are usually offered in two separately packaged preparations, which are mixed immediately before use to a finished application preparation. Conventionally, commercial bleaching agents consist of a liquid oxidizing agent preparation and a powder containing solid oxidizing agents. Alternatively, instead of the powder, pasty agents may be mixed with a liquid oxidizer formulation, thereby avoiding the problems of dusting during manufacture and mixing. Products with other components are also offered commercially.

Pasty bleaching agents usually contain larger amounts of an inert oil, which can lead to stability problems (settling of the solid oxidizing agent from the oil). Even with peroxodisulphates that have not yet completely settled, a concentration gradient can occur within the packaging, so that different portions of the packaging can cause different lightening after mixing. To minimize these problems, high viscosity is desirable.

On the other hand, the viscosity of the bleaching paste must be so low that it mixes well and quickly with the liquid oxidizing agent preparation. The resulting blending mixture must also be fluid enough to be easily and evenly applied, but thick enough not to drip off the head or application aids such as paint brushes. In addition, the resulting blender mixture should not separate as settling or phase separations are perceived by the customer as a quality defect. Often hair should not only be lightened, but also dyed at the same time. Bleaching pastes should therefore also be readily miscible with cream-form colorants. Often, these colorants contain direct dyes, so that a homogeneous mixing for a uniform dyeing and whitening result is a prerequisite. WO 2009/134875 A1 describes bleaching agents containing persulfate salts and an oil gel, which in turn is composed of oil (s) and certain polymers.

Desirable properties of the composition of this invention are resistance to settling and phase separation.

EP 1 034 777 A1 discloses compositions for brightening keratinic fibers which contain at least two separately packaged preparations (A) and (B), which are mixed to form an application mixture immediately before use, wherein the preparations (A) are oil-based and polymer (e) which form oleo or lipogels. In this case, mixtures with natural polymers, such as xanthan, are disclosed.

DE 10 2013 217 204 discloses agents for whitening keratinic fibers, which, based on their weight - 20 to 75 wt .-% 01 (e); 0.05 to 5 wt .-% xanthan, 1 to 70 wt .-% peroxodisulfate (s) and 1 to 15 wt .-% Cetearylakohol included. These agents are already stable against oil separation, but still need to be improved with regard to their homogeneous miscibility with colorant-containing formulations.

The object of the present invention was to further improve the properties of blonding agents. In particular, the storage stability should be increased, whereby not only the physical stability (settling, phase separation), but also the chemical stability (degradation of persalts) should be improved. In addition, miscibility with dye-containing formulations should be improved.

It has been found that the use of certain at 25 ° C liquid fatty alcohols in combination with silicates solves the above objects.

The present invention in a first embodiment means for lightening keratinischer fibers containing - based on their weight - a) <0, 1 wt .-% ammonia;

b) <0, 1% by weight of paraffin oil (s),

c) from 5 to 40% by weight of fatty alcohol (s) which is liquid at 25 ° C.,

d) from 1 to 70% by weight of peroxodisulfate (e) from the group of sodium peroxodisulfate and / or potassium peroxodisulfate,

e) 1 to 15 wt .-% metasilicate (s).

Under keratinic fibers or keratin fibers are furs, wool, feathers and especially human hair to understand. Although the compositions according to the invention are primarily suitable for whitening keratin fibers, in principle there is nothing to prevent their use in other fields as well.

The agents according to the invention preferably contain only very little or no ammonia, preferred agents being characterized in that they contain 0 to <0.1% by weight, preferably 0 to <0.05% by weight, more preferably 0 to < 0.01 wt .-%, particularly preferably 0 to <0.001 wt .-% and in particular 0 wt .-% ammonia. Due to the further composition of the compositions according to the invention, it is possible to provide the miscibility and storage stability without the use of oils from the group of alkanes. The use of paraffins with the disadvantages mentioned can therefore be dispensed with, so that preferred agents are characterized in that they contain 0 to <0.1% by weight, preferably 0 to <0.05% by weight, more preferably 0 to <0.01 wt .-%, particularly preferably 0 to <0.001 wt .-% and in particular 0 wt .-% paraffin oil (s).

As the first ingredient, the inventive compositions contain 5 to 40 wt .-% at 25 ° C liquid (s) fatty alcohol (s). It is possible to use individual substances or mixtures of substances from this group, the quantities always referring to those fatty alcohols which are liquid at 25 ° C. and normal pressure (1013.25 mbar). If the fatty alcohol mixtures contain other ingredients which are solid under these conditions, their quantities are not included in the total amount. Preferably, however, the total amount of fatty alcohols which are solid at 25 ° C and atmospheric pressure (1013.25 mbar), in the inventive compositions on the one hand less than the amount of fatty alcohols, which liquid at 25 ° C and atmospheric pressure (1013.25 mbar) and, on the other hand, it is preferably below 13% by weight, based on the total agent.

Agents which are particularly preferred according to the invention are characterized in that they contain from 7.5 to 37.5% by weight, preferably from 10 to 35% by weight, more preferably from 12.5 to 34% by weight, particularly preferably from 15 to 33% by weight. % and in particular 16 to 32 wt .-% at 25 ° C liquid (s) fatty alcohol (s) from the group hexyldecanol and / or octyldodecanol included.

If the use of further fatty alcohols (which are solid at 25 ° C. and normal pressure) is desired, agents are preferred according to the invention which contain from 1.5 to 12.5% by weight, preferably from 2 to 10% by weight, more preferably 3, 5 to 8 wt .-%, particularly preferably 4 to 7 wt .-% and in particular 5 to 6.5 wt .-% Cetearyalkohol.

As a further essential ingredient, the preparations according to the invention contain 1 to 70% by weight of peroxodisulfate (s) from the group of sodium peroxodisulfate and / or potassium peroxodisulfate, with preferred agents according to the invention - based on their weight - 2.5 to 65 wt .-%, preferably 5 to 60 wt .-%, more preferably 7.5 to 55 wt .-%, particularly preferably 10 to 50% by weight and in particular 12.5 to 40 wt .-% peroxodisulfate (s) from the group sodium peroxodisulfate and / or Contain potassium peroxodisulfate.

It is highly preferred to always keep the amount of potassium peroxodisulfate and / or sodium peroxodisulfate much greater than the amount of ammonium peroxodisulfate possibly employed. It has been shown that with increasing proportion of potassium peroxodisulfate in the total amount of peroxodisulfates, the chemical and physical stability of the agents according to the invention increases. In preferred compositions, therefore, the weight ratio of potassium peroxodisulfate to ammonium peroxodisulfate is> 2, preferably> 5, more preferably> 10, even more preferably> 15 and especially> 20. This weight ratio is determined by the weight% Amount of potassium peroxodisulfate by the sum of the wt .-% - amounts of ammonium peroxodisulfate divided.

Agents preferred according to the invention are characterized in that the weight ratio of potassium peroxodisulfate present in the medium to ammonium peroxodisulfates contained in the composition is> 10: 1, preferably> 12.5: 1, more preferably> 15: 1, particularly preferably> 17.5: 1 and in particular> 20: 1.

Extremely preferred agents according to the invention contain 0 to <2.5% by weight, preferably 0 to <1% by weight, more preferably 0 to <0.5% by weight, particularly preferably 0 to <0.1% by weight. % and in particular 0 wt .-% ammonium peroxodisulfate.

The bleaching compositions according to the invention also contain metasilicate (s) as alkalizing agent. These are preferably selected from sodium metasilicate, potassium metasilicate, magnesium metasilicate and / or mixtures thereof. Particular preference is given to using sodium metasilicate, so that preferred agents according to the invention comprise 1.1 to 14% by weight, preferably 1.2 to 13% by weight, more preferably 1.3 to 12% by weight, more preferably 1.4% to 1 1 wt .-% and in particular 1, 5 to 10 wt .-% sodium metasilicate.

The use of other alkalizing agents is possible - with the exception of ammonia, see above. Further inorganic alkalizing agents which can be used according to the invention are preferably selected from sodium hydroxide, potassium hydroxide, calcium hydroxide, barium hydroxide, sodium phosphate, potassium phosphate, sodium carbonate and potassium carbonate. Particularly preferred are sodium hydroxide and / or potassium hydroxide. Other suitable alkalizing agents which can be used according to the invention are preferably selected from alkanolamines of primary, secondary or tertiary amines having a C 2 -C 6 -alkyl basic body which carries at least one hydroxyl group. Particularly preferred alkanolamines are selected from the group formed from 2-aminoethane-1-ol (monoethanolamine), 3-aminopropan-1-ol, 4-aminobutan-1-ol, 5-aminopentan-1-ol, 1 -Aminopropan-2-ol (monoisopropanolamine), 1-aminobutan-2-ol, 1-aminopentan-2-ol, 1-aminopentan-3-ol, 1-aminopentan-4-ol, 2-amino-2-methyl propanol, 2-amino-2-methylbutanol, 3-amino-2-methylpropan-1-ol, 1-amino-2-methylpropan-2-ol, 3-aminopropane-1,2-diol, 2-amino 2-methylpropane-1, 3-diol, 2-amino-2-ethyl-1, 3-propanediol, Ν, Ν-dimethyl-ethanolamine, methylglucamine, triethanolamine, diethanolamine and triisopropanolamine. Particularly preferred alkanolamines are monoethanolamine, 2-amino-2-methyl-propanol and triethanolamine.

The basic amino acids which can be used as alkalizing agents according to the invention are preferably selected from the group consisting of L-arginine, D-arginine, D / L-arginine, L-lysine, D-lysine, D / L-lysine, L-ornithine, D-ornithine, D / L-ornithine, L-histidine, D-histidine and / or D / L-histidine. Particular preference is given to using L-arginine, D-arginine and / or D / L-arginine as an alkalizing agent in the context of the invention.

The compositions according to the invention may contain, in addition to consistency, one or more oils, these oil (s) preferably being liquid under normal conditions.

In the case of cosmetic oils, a distinction is made between volatile and non-volatile oils. Non-volatile oils are oils which at 20 ° C and an ambient pressure of 1013 hPa a Vapor pressure of less than 2.66 Pa (0.02 mm Hg). Volatile oils are understood to mean those oils which, at 20 ° C. and an ambient pressure of 1013 hPa, have a vapor pressure of 2.66 Pa - 40,000 Pa (0.02 mm - 300 mm Hg), preferably 10 - 12,000 Pa (0, 1). 90 mm Hg), more preferably 13-3000 Pa, most preferably 15-500 Pa.

Volatile cosmetic oils are usually selected from cyclic silicone oils having the INCI name Cyclomethicone. The INCI name cyclomethicones is understood in particular as meaning cyclotrisiloxane (hexamethylcyclotrisiloxane), cyclotetrasiloxane (octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane), cyclopentasiloxane (decamethylcyclopentasiloxane) and cyclohexasiloxane (dodecamethylcyclohexasiloxane). These oils have a vapor pressure of about 13-15 Pa at 20 ° C.

A preferred cyclomethicone substitute according to the invention is a mixture of Ci3-Ci6 isoparaffinen, C12 - Cw isoparaffins and C13 - cis alkanes whose viscosity is 25 ° C in the range of 2 to 6 mPas and which has a vapor pressure at 20 ° C in the range of 10 to 150 Pa, preferably 100 to 150 Pa has. Such a mixture is z. B. under the name SiClone SR-5 from Presperse Inc. available.

Further preferred cosmetic oils according to the invention for this reason are esters of linear or branched saturated or unsaturated fatty alcohols having 2 to 30 carbon atoms with linear or branched saturated or unsaturated fatty acids having 2 to 30 carbon atoms which may be hydroxylated. Preference is given to esters of linear or branched saturated fatty alcohols having 2 to 5 carbon atoms with linear or branched saturated or unsaturated fatty acids having 10 to 18 carbon atoms which may be hydroxylated. Preferred examples thereof are isopropyl palmitate, isopropyl stearate, isopropyl myristate, 2-hexyldecyl stearate, 2-hexyldecyl laurate, isodecyl neopentanoate, isononyl isononanoate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate and 2-ethylhexyl stearate. Also preferred are isopropyl isostearate, isopropyl oleate, isooctyl stearate, isononyl stearate, isocetyl stearate, isononyl isononanoate, isotridecyl isononanoate, cetearyl isononanoate, 2-ethylhexyl laurate, 2-ethylhexyl isostearate, 2-ethylhexyl cocoate, 2-octyl dodecyl palmitate, butyloctanoic acid 2-butyloctanoate, diisotridecyl acetate, n-butyl stearate , n-hexyl laurate, n-decyl oleate, oleyl oleate, oleyl erucate, erucyl oleate, erucyl erucate, ethylene glycol dioleate, ethylene glycol dipalmitate. n-hexyl laurate, n-decyl oleate, oleyl oleate, oleyl erucate, erucyl oleate, Ci2-Ci5-alkyl lactate and di-Ci2-Ci3-alkyl malate and the benzoic acid esters of linear or branched Cs-22-alkanols. Particularly preferred are benzoic acid-Ci2-Ci5-alkyl esters, z. B. available as a commercial product Finsolv ^® TN (Ci2-cis-alkyl benzoate), and isostearyl benzoate, z. As available as Finsolv ^® SB, 2-ethylhexyl, z. B. available as Finsolv ^® EB, and benzoic acid 2-octyldodecylester, z. As available as Finsolv ^® BOD.

Particularly advantageous is the use of isopropyl esters of C 12 -carboxylic acids, in particular the use of isopropyl myristate, and more preferably mixtures of isopropyl myristate with Cio-Ci3-isoparaffin mixtures, the latter preferably having a vapor pressure at 20 ° C of 10-400 Pa, proved. Of the oils mentioned, some have proven to be particularly suitable because they are excellently compatible with the other ingredients of the invention. Agents preferred according to the invention are characterized in that they additionally contain 0.5 to 20% by weight, preferably 1 to 19% by weight, more preferably 2.5 to 18% by weight, particularly preferably 3.5 to 17% by weight. % and in particular 5 to 15 wt .-% of oil (s) from the group of alkyl benzoates, isopropyl palmitate, isohexadecane, isododecane, isononyl isononanoate.

Extremely preferred agents additionally contain 0.5 to 20 wt .-%, preferably 1 to 19 wt .-%, more preferably 2.5 to 18 wt .-%, particularly preferably 3.5 to 17 wt .-% and in particular 5 to 15% by weight of isopropyl palmitate.

The compositions of the invention may additionally contain at least one further bleaching enhancer other than the inorganic persalts.

Bleach amplifiers which can be used are compounds which, under perhydrolysis conditions, give aliphatic peroxocarboxylic acids having preferably 1 to 10 C atoms, in particular 2 to 4 C atoms, and / or optionally substituted perbenzoic acid. Suitable substances are those which carry O- and / or N-acyl groups of the stated C atom number and / or optionally substituted benzoyl groups. Preference is given to polyacylated alkylenediamines, in particular tetraacetylethylenediamine (TAED), acylated triazine derivatives, in particular 1,5-diacetyl-2,4-dioxo-hexahydro-1,3,5-triazine (DADHT), acylated glycolurils, in particular tetraacetylglycoluril (TAGU), N-acylimides, in particular N-nonanoylsuccinimide (NOSI), acylated phenolsulfonates, in particular n-nonanoyl or isononanoyloxybenzenesulfonate (n- or iso-NOBS), carboxylic anhydrides, in particular phthalic anhydride, acylated polyhydric alcohols, in particular triacetin, ethylene glycol diacetate and 2, 5-diacetoxy-2,5-dihydrofuran.

A second subject of the invention is a process for the color change of keratinous fibers in which at least two separately packaged preparations (A) and (B), of which preparation (A) at least one persulfate and preparation (B) contains at least one oxidizing agent, to one Application mixture are mixed, this is applied to the fibers and rinsed again after an exposure time, characterized in that preparation (A)

a) <0, 1 wt .-% ammonia;

b) <0, 1% by weight of paraffin oil (s),

c) from 5 to 40% by weight of fatty alcohol (s) which is liquid at 25 ° C.,

e) 1 to 15 wt .-% metasilicate (s).

contains.

The ready-to-use agents are prepared immediately before use on the hair by mixing the two preparations (A) and (B) and optionally a third preparation (C) and / or other preparations. For ready-to-use resources consisting of more than two Preparations are mixed to form a finished application mixture, it may be irrelevant whether initially two preparations are mixed together and then the third preparation is added and mixed in, or whether all preparations are brought together and then mixed. The mixing can be done by stirring in a bowl or a cup or by shaking in a sealable container. The term "immediate" is to be understood as a period of a few seconds to one hour, preferably up to 30 minutes, in particular up to 15 minutes.

The compositions according to the invention are used in a process for lightening keratinic fibers, in particular human hair, in which the composition is applied to the keratin-containing fibers at a temperature of from room temperature to 45 ° C. for a period of from 10 to 60 minutes on the fiber and then rinsed with water or washed out with a shampoo.

The exposure time of the ready-to-use brightening agents is preferably from 10 to 60 minutes, in particular from 15 to 50 minutes, particularly preferably from 20 to 45 minutes. During the exposure time of the agent on the fiber, it may be advantageous to assist the lightening process by supplying heat. The heat supply can be done by an external heat source, such as with the help of a hot air blower, as well as, especially in a hair lightening on the living subjects, by the body temperature of the subject. In the latter option, usually the brightening lot is covered with a hood. An exposure phase at room temperature is also according to the invention. The temperature during the exposure time is preferably between 20 ° C and 40 ° C, in particular between 25 ° C and 38 ° C. The brightening agents give good bleaching and brightening results even at physiologically compatible temperatures of below 45 ° C.

After the end of the reaction time, the remaining whitening preparation is rinsed out of the hair with water or a cleaning agent. In this case, commercially available shampoo can be used as the cleaning agent, in which case the cleaning agent can be dispensed with, in particular, and the rinsing-off process can be carried out with tap water if the brightening agent has a carrier which is highly surfactant-containing.

The preferred embodiments of the first subject of the invention also apply mutatis mutandis for the second subject of the invention.

Claims

Patent claims

1. A composition for lightening keratinic fibers, containing - based on its weight - a) <0, 1 wt .-% ammonia;

b) <0, 1% by weight of paraffin oil (s),

c) from 5 to 40% by weight of fatty alcohol (s) which is liquid at 25 ° C.,

e) 1 to 15 wt .-% metasilicate (s).

2. Composition according to claim 1, characterized in that it is 7.5 to 37.5 wt .-%, preferably 10 to 35 wt .-%, more preferably 12.5 to 34 wt .-%, particularly preferably 15 to 33 Wt .-% and in particular 16 to 32 wt .-% at 25 ° C liquid (s) fatty alcohol (s) from the group hexyldecanol and / or octyldodecanol.

3. Composition according to one of claims 1 or 2, characterized in that it is 2.5 to 65% by weight, preferably 5 to 60 wt .-%, more preferably 7.5 to 55 wt .-%, particularly preferably 10th to 50 wt .-% and in particular 12.5 to 40 wt .-% peroxodisulfate (s) from the group sodium peroxodisulfate and / or potassium peroxodisulfate.

4. Composition according to one of claims 1 to 3, characterized in that it 0 to <2.5 wt .-%, preferably 0 to <1 wt .-%, more preferably 0 to <0.5 wt .-%, particularly preferably 0 to <0.1 wt .-% and in particular 0 wt .-% ammonium peroxodisulfate.

5. Composition according to one of claims 1 to 4, characterized in that it 1, 1 to 14 wt .-%, preferably 1, 2 to 13 wt .-%, more preferably 1, 3 to 12 wt .-%, especially preferably 1, 4 to 1 1 wt .-% and in particular 1, 5 to 10 wt .-% sodium metasilicate.

6. Composition according to one of claims 1 to 5, characterized in that it additionally 0.5 to 20 wt .-%, preferably 1 to 19 wt .-%, more preferably 2.5 to 18 wt .-%, particularly preferably Contains 3.5 to 17 wt .-% and in particular 5 to 15 wt .-% isopropyl palmitate.

7. Composition according to one of claims 1 to 6, characterized in that it is 1, 5 to 12.5% by weight, preferably 2 to 10 wt .-%, more preferably 3.5 to 8 wt .-%, especially preferably 4 to 7 wt .-% and in particular 5 to 6.5 wt .-% cetearyl alcohol.

8. Composition according to one of claims 1 to 7, characterized in that it is 0 to <0.1 wt .-%, preferably 0 to <0.05 wt .-%, more preferably 0 to <0.01 wt. %, particularly preferably 0 to <0.001 wt .-% and in particular 0 wt .-% ammonia.

9. Composition according to one of claims 1 to 8, characterized in that it 0 to <0.1 wt .-%, preferably 0 to <0.05 wt .-%, more preferably 0 to <0.01 wt. %, particularly preferably 0 to <0.001 wt .-% and in particular 0 wt .-% paraffin oil (s).

10. A process for dyeing keratinous fibers, in which at least two separately packaged preparations (A) and (B), of which preparation (A) at least one persulfate and preparation (B) contains at least one oxidizing agent, are mixed to form an application mixture, this is applied to the fibers and rinsed off again after a contact time, characterized in that preparation (A)

a) <0, 1 wt .-% ammonia;

b) <0, 1% by weight of paraffin oil (s),

c) from 5 to 40% by weight of fatty alcohol (s) which is liquid at 25 ° C.,

e) 1 to 15 wt .-% metasilicate (s).

contains.