WO2016087165A1 - Cosmetic and dermatological preparations in the form of water-in-silicone oil emulsions, containing bis-(glyceryl/lauryl) glyceryl/lauryl dimethicone, and one or more acyl glutamates - Google Patents

Cosmetic and dermatological preparations in the form of water-in-silicone oil emulsions, containing bis-(glyceryl/lauryl) glyceryl/lauryl dimethicone, and one or more acyl glutamates Download PDF

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Publication number
WO2016087165A1
WO2016087165A1 PCT/EP2015/076127 EP2015076127W WO2016087165A1 WO 2016087165 A1 WO2016087165 A1 WO 2016087165A1 EP 2015076127 W EP2015076127 W EP 2015076127W WO 2016087165 A1 WO2016087165 A1 WO 2016087165A1
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Prior art keywords
glyceryl
lauryl
water
dimethicone
silicone oil
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PCT/EP2015/076127
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German (de)
French (fr)
Inventor
Delphine CHANTY
Thomas Raschke
Martin Griebenow
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Beiersdorf Ag
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Publication of WO2016087165A1 publication Critical patent/WO2016087165A1/en

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    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q19/00—Preparations for care of the skin
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/02—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by special physical form
    • A61K8/04—Dispersions; Emulsions
    • A61K8/06—Emulsions
    • A61K8/064—Water-in-oil emulsions, e.g. Water-in-silicone emulsions
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/40—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing nitrogen
    • A61K8/44—Aminocarboxylic acids or derivatives thereof, e.g. aminocarboxylic acids containing sulfur; Salts; Esters or N-acylated derivatives thereof
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/84—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions otherwise than those involving only carbon-carbon unsaturated bonds
    • A61K8/89—Polysiloxanes
    • A61K8/891—Polysiloxanes saturated, e.g. dimethicone, phenyl trimethicone, C24-C28 methicone or stearyl dimethicone
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K2800/00—Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
    • A61K2800/40—Chemical, physico-chemical or functional or structural properties of particular ingredients
    • A61K2800/52—Stabilizers
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q17/00—Barrier preparations; Preparations brought into direct contact with the skin for affording protection against external influences, e.g. sunlight, X-rays or other harmful rays, corrosive materials, bacteria or insect stings
    • A61Q17/04—Topical preparations for affording protection against sunlight or other radiation; Topical sun tanning preparations
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q19/00—Preparations for care of the skin
    • A61Q19/08—Anti-ageing preparations

Definitions

  • the present invention relates to a cosmetic preparation preparations in the form of water-in-silicone oil emulsions containing bis (glyceryl / lauryl) glyceryl / lauryl dimethicone and one or more acylglutamates.
  • active ingredients are used, for example, stimulate the activity of skin cells, but also increasingly used UV filters that block especially responsible for skin aging UVA rays. All these ingredients pose a great challenge for a pleasant sensory, as they remain as a film on the skin after evaporation of the volatile constituents of the formulation, and sensed by the consumer sensory there.
  • the sensible residues are often described negatively and prevent the feeling that the product is completely "absorbed" in the skin.
  • silicone compounds and powder raw materials are mentioned here, since they can mask the sticky feel of, for example, glycerol or the oily / greasy appearance of many lipids or UV filters.
  • silicone elastomers which are cross-linked and / or modified polydimethylsiloxanes, which are usually swollen in a medium as a gel.
  • This medium is preferably a low-viscosity, preferably volatile silicone.
  • This class of raw material provides a powdery / dry, velvety / silky feel on the skin after dispensing and may, depending on the type of formulation, mask oily / greasy and / or sticky raw materials.
  • a preferred way to formulate sensory highly attractive facial care products with UV protection, skin care and active ingredients is thus to produce W / O emulsions in which UV filters, lipids, moisturizers and active ingredients are combined with silicone elastomers.
  • W / O emulsifiers are usually used in comparatively high concentrations of 3-5% to obtain stable emulsions.
  • the described combination of ingredients in particular the combination of organic lipids and UV filters with quite high amounts of silicones from the silicone elastomer, places high demands on the emulsifier. Because of the high silicone content, a silicone-based emulsifier is usually required.
  • Silicone-based emulsifiers almost exclusively contain PEG- and PPG-containing groups as a hydrophilic component.
  • the PEG derivatives are repeatedly due to compatibility risks in the public debate, which is why preferred formulated without such substances.
  • the choice of PEG-free silicone emulsifiers is limited; for example, KF-6100, KF-6104, KF-6105 or KSG-710, KSG-810, KSG-820, KSG-830 or KSG-840 from Shin Etsu or Abil EM 120 from Evonik. Descriptions of these emulsifiers can be found in European patent EP 1213316 and European patent applications EP 1550687 and EP 2243799. The prior art always discloses a high level of at least 2%, often even 3-5%, silicone emulsifier for skin care compositions to obtain stable emulsions.
  • the high content of emulsifier always has an effect on the sensor technology of the relevant emulsion.
  • the object of the present invention is therefore to provide a stable (storage-stable, transport-stable, long-term stable) water-in-silicone oil (W / Si) ) Emulsion that is sensory attractive and PEG-free, meeting all the requirements of a modern facial care product.
  • the object is surprisingly achieved by containing a cosmetic water-in-silicone oil emulsion
  • one or more hydrophilic O / W emulsifiers for example surface-active or surface-active acylglutamates.
  • Emulsions according to the invention are emulsions whose outer phase is a lipophilic phase whose content of silicone oils is at least 40, preferably at least 50,% by weight, based on the lipophilic phase.
  • Suitable silicone oils are, for example, cyclomethicones and / or dimethicones.
  • water-in-silicone oil emulsions contain 0, 1 to 10.0% by weight, preferably 0.2 to 5.0% by weight, particularly preferably 0.5 to 3.0% by weight on the total weight of the preparation, of bis (glyceryl / lauryl) glyceryl / lauryl dimethicone.
  • Bis- (glyceryl / lauryl) glyceryl / lauryl dimethicone can be purchased as a preparation with caprylic / capric triglyceride, for example, from Evonik under the trade name Abil® EM120.
  • the preparations according to the invention are free-flowing but can also be formulated into creams, have very good cosmetic properties, in particular with regard to stickiness, and have very good skin compatibility and skin care performance.
  • oil phase generally encompasses the entirety of silicone oil and other oils, waxes and fats, unless expressly stated otherwise.
  • the proportion of the oil phase of the preparations according to the invention in the range from 3 to 60% by weight, based on the total weight of the preparations.
  • Preparations according to the invention advantageously contain one or more surface-active or surface-active emulsifiers from the group of alkyl sulfates, alkyl phosphates and acyl glutamates, in particular their alkali metal salts.
  • R is selected from the group of branched and unbranched alkyl groups containing from 5 to 25 carbon atoms, and independently of these, X is selected from the group consisting of hydrogen and alkali metal ions.
  • X is selected from the group consisting of hydrogen and alkali metal ions.
  • sodium stearoylglutamate which is obtainable from BASF under the trade name Eumulgin SG, is preferred according to the invention.
  • Cosmetic or dermatological preparations according to the invention preferably contain 0.001-10% by weight, preferably 0.01-5% by weight, particularly preferably 0.1-1.0% by weight, of one or more surface-active or surface-active substances from the group of alkyl sulfates, alkyl phosphates and / or acyl glutamates, in particular sodium stearoyl glutamate, based on the total weight of the preparations.
  • a preferred alkali metal sulphate is sodium cetostearyl sulphate (also referred to simply as sodium cetearyl sulphate), which is obtainable from BASF under the trade name Lanette E.
  • a preferred alkyl phosphate is the potassium cetyl phosphate which is obtained, for example, from the Clariant company under the trade name Hostaphat CK 100 is offered.
  • the oil or lipid phase according to the invention may contain all oils, fats, waxes and / or lipids customary in cosmetic preparations.
  • the aqueous phase of the preparations according to the invention may advantageously comprise customary cosmetic auxiliaries, for example alcohols, in particular those of low C number, preferably ethanol and / or isopropanol or polyols of low C number and their ethers, preferably propylene glycol, glycerol, ethylene glycol, ethylene glycol monoethyl or monobutyl ether, propylene glycol monomethyl, monoethyl or monobutyl ether, diethylene glycol monomethyl or monoethyl ether and analogous products, foam stabilizers, electrolytes, self-tanning agents, etc.
  • customary cosmetic auxiliaries for example alcohols, in particular those of low C number, preferably ethanol and / or isopropanol or polyols of low C number and their ethers, preferably propylene glycol, glycerol, ethylene glycol, ethylene glycol monoethyl or monobutyl ether, propylene glycol monomethyl
  • Fats, waxes and other natural and synthetic fats preferably esters of fatty acids with lower C-number alcohols, e.g. with isopropanol, propylene glycol or glycerol, or esters of fatty alcohols with alkanoic acids of low C number or with fatty acids;
  • Alcohols, diols or polyols of low C number, and their ethers preferably ethanol, isopropanol, propylene glycol, glycerol, ethylene glycol, ethylene glycol monoethyl or monobutyl ether, propylene glycol monomethyl, monoethyl or monobutyl ether, diethylene glycol monomethyl or monoethyl ether and analogous products ,
  • the oil phase of the emulsions according to the present invention consists, according to the invention, at least in part of silicone oils.
  • silicone oils are also referred to as "silicone oils" within the scope of the present disclosure
  • silicones or silicone oils may be present as monomers, which are generally used as monomers
  • Structural elements are characterized as follows: R 2 - O-Si-O-R 3
  • silicon atoms can be substituted with identical or different alkyl radicals and / or aryl radicals, which are here generalized by the radicals Ri - R 4 (to say that the number of different radicals is not necessarily limited to up to 4), m assume values of 2 - 200,000.
  • n assume values of 3/2 to 20.
  • phenyltrimethicone is chosen as the silicone oil.
  • silicone oils for example dimethicone, phenyldimethicone, cyclomethicone (octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane), for example hexamethylcyclotrisiloxane, polydimethylsiloxane, poly (methylphenylsiloxane), cetyldimethicone, behenoxydimethicone, are to be used advantageously in the context of the present invention.
  • silicone oils of similar constitution as the compounds described above, whose organic side chains are derivatized, for example polyethoxylated and / or polypropoxylated.
  • silicone oils of similar constitution as the compounds described above, whose organic side chains are derivatized, for example polyethoxylated and / or polypropoxylated.
  • These include, for example, polysiloxane-polyalkyl-polyether copolymers, such as the cetyl-dimethicone copolyol, the (cetyl-dimethicone copolyol (and) polyglyceryl-4-isostearate (and) hexyl laurate)
  • oil components from the group of other oil components.
  • These can then be advantageously selected from the group of esters of saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alkanecarboxylic acids having a chain length of 3 to 30 carbon atoms and saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alcohols having a chain length of 3 to 30 carbon atoms, from the group of esters of aromatic carboxylic acids and saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alcohols having a chain length of 3 to 30 carbon atoms.
  • ester oils can then advantageously be selected from the group isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, isopropyl stearate, isopropyl oleate, n-butyl stearate, n-hexyl laurate, n-decyl oleate, isooctyl stearate, isononyl stearate, isononyl isononanoate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, 2-ethylhexyl laurate, 2-hexyldecyl stearate, 2-octyldodecyl palmitate, oleyl oleate, oleyl erucate, erucyl oleate, erucyl erucate and also synthetic, semisynthetic and natural mixtures of such esters, eg Jojoba oil.
  • the oil phase can be advantageously selected in part from the group of branched and unbranched hydrocarbons and waxes, the dialkyl ethers, the group of saturated or unsaturated, branched or unbranched alcohols, and the fatty acid triglycerides, in particular the triglycerol esters of saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alkanecarboxylic acids of a chain length of 8 to 24, in particular 12 to 18 carbon atoms.
  • the fatty acid triglycerides can be selected, for example, advantageously from the group of synthetic, semi-synthetic and natural oils, eg Olive oil, sunflower oil, soybean oil, peanut oil, rapeseed oil, almond oil, palm oil, coconut oil, palm kernel oil, and the like.
  • synthetic, semi-synthetic and natural oils eg Olive oil, sunflower oil, soybean oil, peanut oil, rapeseed oil, almond oil, palm oil, coconut oil, palm kernel oil, and the like.
  • Fat and / or wax components which can advantageously be used according to the invention can be selected from the group of vegetable waxes, animal waxes, mineral waxes and petrochemical waxes.
  • Favorable according to the invention are, for example, candelilla wax, carnauba wax, Japan wax, esparto grass wax, cork wax, guaruma wax, rice germ oil wax, sugarcane wax, berry wax, ouricury wax, montan wax, jojoba wax, shea butter, beeswax, shellac wax, spermaceti, lanolin (wool wax), crepe fat, ceresin, Ozokerite (wax), paraffin waxes and microwaxes.
  • fat and / or wax components are chemically modified waxes and synthetic waxes, such as, for example, those sold under the trade names Syraxax HRC (glyceryl tribehenate), Syncrowax HGLC (C 16-36 fatty acid triglyceride) and Syncro wax AW 1 C (C-18 And montan ester waxes, Sasol waxes, hydrogenated jojoba waxes, synthetic or modified beeswaxes (eg dimethicone copolyol beeswax and / or C3o-so-alkyl beeswax), polyalkylene waxes, polyethylene glycol waxes, but also chemically Modified fats, such as.
  • Syraxax HRC glyceryl tribehenate
  • Syncrowax HGLC C 16-36 fatty acid triglyceride
  • Syncro wax AW 1 C C-18 And montan ester waxes
  • Sasol waxes hydrogenated jojoba
  • Hydrogenated vegetable oils eg hydrogenated castor oil and / or hydrogenated coconut fatty glycerides
  • triglycerides such as trihydroxystearin, fatty acids, fatty acid esters and glycol esters such as C2o-4o-alkyl stearate, C2o-4o-alkylhydroxystearoyl stearate and / or glycol montanate.
  • organosilicon compounds which have similar physical properties to the fatty and / or wax components mentioned, such as, for example, stearoxytrimethylsilane.
  • the fat and / or wax components can be present both individually and in a mixture.
  • Blends of such oil and wax components are also advantageous to use in the context of the present invention. It may also be advantageous, if appropriate, to use waxes, for example cetyl palmitate, as the sole lipid component of the oil phase.
  • the oil components are selected from the group consisting of 2-ethylhexyl isostearate, octyldodecanol, isotridecyl isononanoate, isoeicosane, 2-ethylhexyl cocoate, C 12-15 -alkyl benzoate, caprylic capric acid triglyceride, dicaprylyl ether.
  • Particularly advantageous are mixtures of C 12-15 -alkyl benzoate and 2-ethylhexyl isostearate, mixtures of C 12-18 -alkyl benzoate and isotridecyl isononanoate and also mixtures of C 12-15 -alkyl benzoate, 2-ethylhexyl isostearate and isotridecyl isononanoate.
  • hydrocarbons paraffin oil, cycloparaffin, squalane, squalene, hydrogenated polyisobutene or polydecene are to be used advantageously in the context of the present invention.
  • the preparation contains siloxane elastomers.
  • Embodiments of the present invention which are preferred according to the invention are characterized in that the preparation contains siloxane elastomers in a concentration of 5 to 25% by weight, based on the total weight of the preparation.
  • the silicone elastomers according to the invention are crosslinked, optionally substituted organopolysiloxanes which have swollen in a suitable carrier medium.
  • the crosslinking may have been carried out by means of all common methods and crosslinkers.
  • Carrier media may e.g. cyclic or linear silicones as well as organic lipids.
  • Suitable commercially available silicone elastomer gels are e.g.
  • particulate substances based on silicon, in particular silicates, silicones and modified silicones or silicone-hybrid polymers.
  • Suitable particulates are, for example, silica-based particles such as Aerosil types from Evonik, or VM-2270 Airgel Fine Particles from Dow Corning, silicone-based particles such as 9506 Powder, 9701 Cosmetic Powder, EP-9215 Cosmetic Powder, EP-9261 Ti Cosmetic Powder, EP-9289 EP Cosmetic Powder, or EP-9289 AL Cosmetic Powder from Dow Corning, KMP-590, KSP-100, KSP-101, KSP-105 or KSP-300 from Shin Etsu, or Velvesil FX or others Velvesil types from Momentive.
  • An example of a silicone-hybrid polymer particle is the recently presented experimental KR 1891 from Evonik, which is a silicone methacrylate.
  • additional emulsifiers can advantageously be selected from the group of silicone emulsifiers, these in turn advantageously from the group of surface-active substances from the group of alkyl methicone copolyols and / or alkyl dimethicone copolyols, in particular from the group of compounds which are characterized by following chemical structure:
  • X and Y are independently selected from the group H and the branched and unbranched alkyl groups, acyl groups and alkoxy groups having 1 to 24 carbon atoms, p is a number from 0 to 200, q is a number from 1 to 40, and r is one Number from 1 - 100 represents.
  • silicone emulsifiers to be used particularly advantageously for the purposes of the present invention is cetyl dimethicone copolyol, which is available from the company
  • silicone emulsifiers to be used particularly advantageously for the purposes of the present invention is the cyclomethicone dimethicone copolyol, which is sold by the company Th. Goldschmidt AG under the trade name ABIL® EM 97.
  • silicone emulsifier laurylmethicone copolyol which has been sold under the trade name Dow Corning® 5200 Formulation Aid by the company Dow Corning Ltd. has proved particularly advantageous. is available.
  • Formulations according to the present invention may also contain one or more additional non-silicone emulsifiers, for example advantageously selected from the group of the following substances, which as a rule act as W / O emulsifiers.
  • Formulations according to the present invention may also contain one or more additional non-silicone emulsifiers, for example advantageously selected from the group of the following substances, which as a rule act as O / W emulsifiers:
  • cosmetic or dermatological preparations according to the invention have very particularly advantageous properties.
  • the total amount of silicone emulsifiers used according to the invention in the cosmetic or dermatological preparations according to the invention is advantageously selected from the range of 0.1-10.0% by weight, preferably 0.2-5.0% by weight, based on the total weight of the preparations.
  • the total amount of non-silicone emulsifiers used according to the invention in the cosmetic or dermatological preparations according to the invention is advantageously selected from the range of 0.001-10.0% by weight, preferably 0.01-5.0% by weight, based on the Total weight of the preparations.
  • Emulsions according to the invention for the purposes of the present invention are advantageous and contain e.g. Fats, oils, waxes and / or other fatty substances, as well as water and one or more emulsifiers, as they are commonly used for such a type of formulation.
  • Medicinal topical compositions according to the present invention usually contain one or more drugs in effective concentration.
  • a clear distinction will be made between cosmetic and medical applications. refer to the statutory provisions of the Federal Republic of Germany (eg Cosmetics Ordinance, Food and Medicinal Products Act).
  • cosmetic or topical dermatological compositions according to the present invention depending on their structure, for example, be used as skin protection cream, cleansing milk, sunscreen lotion, nutrient cream, day or night cream, etc. It is possible and advantageous, the compositions of the invention as a basis for pharmaceutical To use formulations.
  • these preferably additionally contain at least one UVA filter substance and / or at least one UVB filter substance and / or at least one inorganic pigment.
  • UV-A or UV-B filter substances are usually incorporated in day creams.
  • preparations according to the invention may contain substances which absorb UV radiation in the UVB range, the total amount of filter substances being e.g. 0.1 wt .-% to 30 wt .-%, preferably 0.5 to 10 wt .-%, in particular 1 to 6 wt .-%, based on the total weight of the preparations.
  • the UVB filters may be oil-soluble or water-soluble.
  • oil-soluble substances are e.g. to call:
  • 4-aminobenzoic acid derivatives preferably (2-ethylhexyl) 4- (dimethylamino) benzoate, 4- (dimethylamino) benzoic acid amyl ester;
  • Esters of cinnamic acid preferably 4-methoxycinnamic acid (2-ethylhexyl) ester, 4-methoxycinnamic acid isopentyl ester;
  • Esters of salicylic acid preferably 2-ethylhexyl salicylate, 4-isopropylbenzyl salicylate, homomenthyl salicylate;
  • benzophenone preferably 2-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone, 2-hydroxy-4-methoxy-4'-methylbenzophenone, 2,2'-dihydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone;
  • Esters of benzalmalonic acid preferably di (2-ethylhexyl) 4-methoxybenzalmalonate;
  • 2-phenylbenzimidazole-5-sulfonic acid and its salts e.g. Sodium, potassium or triethanolammonium salts
  • Sulfonic acid derivatives of benzophenones preferably 2-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone-5-sulfonic acid and its salts;
  • Sulfonic acid derivatives of the 3-benzylidene camphor e.g. 4- (2-oxo-3-bomylidene-methyl) benzenesulfonic acid, 2-methyl-5- (2-oxo-3-bomylidenemethyl) sulfonic acid and its salts.
  • UVB filters which can be used according to the invention should of course not be limiting.
  • UVA filters in formulations according to the invention which are customarily contained in cosmetic and / or dermatological preparations.
  • Such filter substances are preferably derivatives of dibenzoylmethane, in particular 1 - (4'-tert-butylphenyl) -3- (4'-methoxyphenyl) propane-1,3-dione and 1-phenyl-3-one. (4'-isopropyl-phenyl) -propane-1,3-dione.
  • preparations containing these combinations are the subject of the invention.
  • the same quantities of UVA filter substances which have been mentioned for UVB filter substances can be used.
  • Cosmetic and / or dermatological preparations according to the present invention may also contain inorganic pigments which are commonly used in cosmetics to protect the skin from UV rays. These are oxides of titanium, zinc, iron, zirconium, silicon, manganese, aluminum, chromium, cerium and mixtures thereof, as well as modifications in which the oxides are the active agents. But also ultramarine blue and pearl gloss pigments. Particular preference is given to pigments based on titanium dioxide. The amounts mentioned for the above combinations may be used.
  • the cosmetic and dermatological preparations according to the invention may contain cosmetic active substances, auxiliaries and / or additives such as are conventionally used in such preparations, for example antioxidants, preservatives, bactericides, perfumes, substances for preventing foaming, dyes, pigments, the coloring effect have, thickeners, surface-active substances, emulsifiers, softening, moistening and / or moisturizing substances, fats, oils, waxes or other conventional ingredients of a cosmetic or dermatological formulation such as alcohols, polyols, polymers, foam stabilizers, organic solvents or silicone derivatives.
  • cosmetic active substances for example antioxidants, preservatives, bactericides, perfumes, substances for preventing foaming, dyes, pigments, the coloring effect have, thickeners, surface-active substances, emulsifiers, softening, moistening and / or moisturizing substances, fats, oils, waxes or other conventional ingredients of a cosmetic or dermatological formulation such as alcohols, polyols,
  • both the W / Si emulsifier and the O / W emulsifier are added to the respective oil phase.
  • the oil phase is heated to 60 ° C with stirring to dissolve any UV filters. Thereafter, the oil phase is cooled back to room temperature.
  • the thickeners, the pigment phase and the water phase are added slowly successively with stirring to the oil phase and then thoroughly mixed with a high-speed mixer (for example a magic wand).
  • emulsion samples are stored in screw-retained 30 ml glasses at different temperatures: at room temperature (RT) (about 20 ° C), at -10 ° C, + 6 ° C, + 40 ° C and at +50 ° C.
  • RT room temperature
  • the W / Si emulsions with additional OW emulsifier have a significantly better stability (no phase separation and / or oil separation, no visually discernible inhomogeneities of the pigment distribution) than the emulsion without O / W emulsifier.
  • Additives e.g., tapioca brand, distarch phosphate

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Abstract

Water-in-silicone oil emulsion containing (a) bis-(glyceryl/lauryl) glyceryl/lauryl dimethicone as the emulsifier and optionally other emulsifers; (b) one or more hydrophilic O/W emulsifiers, for example surface-active or surfactant acyl glutamates.

Description

Beschreibung  description
Kosmetische und dermatologische Zubereitungen in Form von Wasser-in-Silikonöl- Emulsionen mit einem Gehalt an Bis-(Glyceryl/Lauryl) Glyceryl/Lauryl Dimethicon sowie einem oder mehreren Acylglutamaten Cosmetic and dermatological preparations in the form of water-in-silicone oil emulsions containing bis (glyceryl / lauryl) glyceryl / lauryl dimethicone and one or more acyl glutamates
Die vorliegende Erfindung betrifft eine kosmetische Zubereitung Zubereitungen in Form von Wasser-in-Silikonöl-Emulsionen mit einem Gehalt an Bis-(Glyceryl/Lauryl) Glyceryl/Lauryl Dimethicon sowie einem oder mehreren Acylglutamaten. The present invention relates to a cosmetic preparation preparations in the form of water-in-silicone oil emulsions containing bis (glyceryl / lauryl) glyceryl / lauryl dimethicone and one or more acylglutamates.
Anwender stellen an moderne Hautpflegeprodukte, speziell in Form von Cremes für die Anwendung im Gesicht, eine Reihe von Anforderungen. Sie sollen die Haut pflegen, insbesondere die Haut über einen langen Zeitraum mit Feuchtigkeit versorgen. Dieses wird in der Regel über„Moisturizer" realisiert, die Wasser im Stratum Corneum binden (z.B. Glycerin), zudem werden mit zugesetzten Lipiden die oberen Hautschuppen geschmeidig gehalten und der transepidermale Wasserverlust reduziert. Users place a number of demands on modern skincare products, especially in the form of face creams. They should care for the skin, in particular to provide the skin with moisture for a long time. This is usually done via "moisturizers" that bind water in the stratum corneum (e.g., glycerin), and with added lipids, the upper dander is kept supple and the transepidermal water loss is reduced.
Des Weiteren erwarten die Anwender häufig eine Wirkung gegen die Anzeichen von Hautalterung, wie z.B. die Ausbildung von Falten, das Nachlassen der Hautelastizität oder die Entstehung von Altersflecken. Hierzu werden zum einen Wirkstoffe verwendet, die beispielsweise die Aktivität der Hautzellen stimulieren, aber auch verstärkt UV-Filter eingesetzt, die besonders die für die Hautalterung verantwortlichen UVA-Strahlen blockieren. Alle diese Inhaltsstoffe stellen eine große Herausforderung für eine angenehme Sensorik dar, da sie nach dem Verdunsten der flüchtigen Bestandteile der Formulierung als Film auf der Haut zurückbleiben, und dort sensorisch vom Verbraucher wahrgenommen werden. Die fühlbaren Rückstände werden dabei oft negativ beschrieben und verhindern das Gefühl dass das Produkt komplett in die Haut„eingezogen" sei. Furthermore, users often expect an effect against the signs of aging of the skin, e.g. the development of wrinkles, the lessening of skin elasticity or the development of age spots. For this purpose, on the one hand active ingredients are used, for example, stimulate the activity of skin cells, but also increasingly used UV filters that block especially responsible for skin aging UVA rays. All these ingredients pose a great challenge for a pleasant sensory, as they remain as a film on the skin after evaporation of the volatile constituents of the formulation, and sensed by the consumer sensory there. The sensible residues are often described negatively and prevent the feeling that the product is completely "absorbed" in the skin.
Um die durch die Formulierung und die Marktanforderungen benötigten Rückstände sensorisch attraktiver zu machen, wird eine Reihe von Sensorik-Additiven eingesetzt. Insbesondere Silikonverbindungen und Puderrohstoffe sind hierbei zu nennen, da sie das klebrige Gefühl von z.B. Glycerin oder die ölig/fettige Anmutung vieler Lipide oder UV-Filter maskieren können. Man findet in Produkten verstärkt den Einsatz von Silikonelastomeren, welches ver- schieden vernetzte und/oder modifizierte Polydimethylsiloxane sind, die in der Regel in einem Medium als Gel gequollen vorliegen. Dieses Medium ist bevorzugt ein niedrigviskoses, bevorzugt auch flüchtiges Silikon. Diese Rohstoffklasse liefert ein pudrig/trockenes, samtig/seidiges Hautgefühl nach dem Verteilen und kann, je nach Formulierungstyp, ölig/fettig und/oder klebrige Rohstoffe maskieren. In order to make the residues required by the formulation and market requirements more sensory, a number of sensor additives are used. In particular, silicone compounds and powder raw materials are mentioned here, since they can mask the sticky feel of, for example, glycerol or the oily / greasy appearance of many lipids or UV filters. In products, there is an increased use of silicone elastomers, which are cross-linked and / or modified polydimethylsiloxanes, which are usually swollen in a medium as a gel. This medium is preferably a low-viscosity, preferably volatile silicone. This class of raw material provides a powdery / dry, velvety / silky feel on the skin after dispensing and may, depending on the type of formulation, mask oily / greasy and / or sticky raw materials.
Generell ist die angenehme Sensorik der Silikonelastomere in W/O Emulsionen stärker ausgeprägt als in O/W Emulsionen, da sie sich in diesem Fall in der äußeren, hydrophoben Phase aufhalten und somit unmittelbar sensorisch wahrgenommen werden können. In general, the pleasant sensory properties of the silicone elastomers in W / O emulsions are more pronounced than in O / W emulsions, since in this case they are in the outer, hydrophobic phase and thus can be perceived directly by sensors.
Ein bevorzugter Weg, sensorisch hoch attraktive Gesichtspflegeprodukte mit UV-Schutz, Hautpflege und Wirkstoffen zu formulieren liegt also darin, W/O Emulsionen herzustellen, in denen UV-Filter, Lipide, Moisturizer und Wirkstoffe mit Silikonelastomeren kombiniert sind. A preferred way to formulate sensory highly attractive facial care products with UV protection, skin care and active ingredients is thus to produce W / O emulsions in which UV filters, lipids, moisturizers and active ingredients are combined with silicone elastomers.
W/O Emulgatoren werden in der Regel in vergleichsweise hoher Konzentration von 3-5% eingesetzt, um stabile Emulsionen zu erhalten. Die beschriebene Kombination von Inhaltsstoffen, hierbei insbesondere die Kombination von organischen Lipiden und UV-Filtern mit recht hohen Mengen Silikonen aus dem Silikonelastomer, stellt hohe Anforderungen an den Emulgator. Wegen des hohen Silikonanteils ist in der Regel ein silikonbasierter Emulgator erforderlich. W / O emulsifiers are usually used in comparatively high concentrations of 3-5% to obtain stable emulsions. The described combination of ingredients, in particular the combination of organic lipids and UV filters with quite high amounts of silicones from the silicone elastomer, places high demands on the emulsifier. Because of the high silicone content, a silicone-based emulsifier is usually required.
Silikonbasierte Emulgatoren haben fast ausnahmslos PEG- und PPG-haltige Gruppen als hydrophile Komponente. Besonders die PEG-Derivate stehen immer wieder aufgrund von Verträglichkeitsrisiken in der öffentlichen Diskussion, weswegen bevorzugt ohne solche Stoffe formuliert wird. Die Auswahl an PEG-freien Silikonemulgatoren ist aber beschränkt, man findet hier beispielsweise KF-6100, KF-6104, KF-6105 oder KSG-710, KSG-810, KSG-820, KSG-830 oder KSG-840 von Shin Etsu oder Abil EM 120 von Evonik. Beschreibungen zu diesen Emulgatoren sind im europäischen Patent EP 1213316 sowie den europäischen Patentanmeldungen EP 1550687 und EP 2243799 zu finden. Der Stand der Technik offenbart für Hautpflegezusammensetzungen stets einen hohen Anteil von mindestens 2%, häufig sogar 3-5% Silikonemulgator, um stabile Emulsionen zu erhalten. Silicone-based emulsifiers almost exclusively contain PEG- and PPG-containing groups as a hydrophilic component. In particular, the PEG derivatives are repeatedly due to compatibility risks in the public debate, which is why preferred formulated without such substances. However, the choice of PEG-free silicone emulsifiers is limited; for example, KF-6100, KF-6104, KF-6105 or KSG-710, KSG-810, KSG-820, KSG-830 or KSG-840 from Shin Etsu or Abil EM 120 from Evonik. Descriptions of these emulsifiers can be found in European patent EP 1213316 and European patent applications EP 1550687 and EP 2243799. The prior art always discloses a high level of at least 2%, often even 3-5%, silicone emulsifier for skin care compositions to obtain stable emulsions.
Der hohe Gehalt an Emulgator wirkt sich stets auf die Sensorik der betreffenden Emulsion aus. So zeigt der Emulgator Abil EM 120 von Evonik beispielsweise eine sehr wachsige Sensorik, die vom Verbraucher negativ beurteilt wird. Aufgabe der vorliegenden Erfindung ist daher, eine stabile (Lagerstabile, transportstabile, langzeitstabile) Wasser-in-Silikonöl- (W/Si- ) Emulsion zur Verfügung zu stellen, die sensorisch attraktiv und PEG-frei ist, dabei alle Anforderungen an ein modernes Gesichtspflege-Produkt erfüllt. The high content of emulsifier always has an effect on the sensor technology of the relevant emulsion. The emulsifier Abil EM 120 from Evonik, for example, shows a very waxy sensor that is negatively evaluated by the consumer. The object of the present invention is therefore to provide a stable (storage-stable, transport-stable, long-term stable) water-in-silicone oil (W / Si) ) Emulsion that is sensory attractive and PEG-free, meeting all the requirements of a modern facial care product.
Insgesamt bleibt das Hauptproblem, dass Wasser-in-Silikonöl-Emulsionen zu Instabilität neigen. Bekannte Übelstände dieser Art sind Ölabscheidung und Phasentrennung. Das Problem wird noch größer, wenn mineralische Öle eingebaute werden müssen, wie es beispiels- wiese in sogenannten„Foundations" der Fall ist. Zwar kann dem durch Verwendung bekannter Stabilisatoren (beispielsweise Hektorite) entgegengewirkt werden, oder der Anteil der Öl- phase kann vermindert werden. Dadurch müssen dann aber wiederum andere Nachteile in Kauf genommen werden, beispielsweise, dass sich Pigmente schlechter einarbeiten lassen. Overall, the main problem remains that water-in-silicone oil emulsions tend to be unstable. Known evils of this kind are oil separation and phase separation. The problem becomes even greater when mineral oils have to be incorporated, as is the case for example in so-called "foundations." Although this can be counteracted by using known stabilizers (for example hectorites), or the proportion of the oil phase can be reduced As a result, however, other disadvantages must then be taken into account, for example, that pigments can be incorporated less easily.
Aufgabe der vorliegenden Erfindung war es daher, diesen Übelständen entgegenzuwirken. Object of the present invention was therefore to counteract these evils.
Überraschend gelöst wird die Aufgabe durch eine kosmetische Wasser-in-Silikonöl Emulsion enthaltend The object is surprisingly achieved by containing a cosmetic water-in-silicone oil emulsion
a) als Emulgator Bis-(Glyceryl/Lauryl) Glyceryl/Lauryl Dimethicone und gewünschtenfalls weitere Emulgatoren a) as emulsifier bis (glyceryl / lauryl) glyceryl / lauryl dimethicone and, if desired, further emulsifiers
b) ein oder mehrere hydrophile O/W-Emulgatoren, beispielsweise ober- oder grenzflächenaktive Acylglutamate. b) one or more hydrophilic O / W emulsifiers, for example surface-active or surface-active acylglutamates.
Wasser-in-Silikonöl Emulsionen sind erfindungsgemäß Emulsionen, deren äußere Phase eine lipophile Phase ist, deren Gehalt an Silikonölen mindestens 40, bevorzugt mindestens 50 Gew.-%, bezogen auf die lipophile Phase beträgt. Als Silikonöle kommen dabei beispielsweise Cyclomethicone und/oder Dimethicone in Frage. Water-in-silicone oil Emulsions according to the invention are emulsions whose outer phase is a lipophilic phase whose content of silicone oils is at least 40, preferably at least 50,% by weight, based on the lipophilic phase. Suitable silicone oils are, for example, cyclomethicones and / or dimethicones.
Erfindungsgemäß vorteilhaft enthalten Wasser-in-Silikonöl-Emulsionen 0, 1 bis 10,0 Gew.-%, bevorzugt 0,2 bis 5,0 Gew.-%, besonders bevorzugt 0,5 bis 3,0 Gew.-%, bezogen auf das Gesamtgewicht der Zubereitung, an Bis-(Glyceryl/Lauryl) Glyceryl/Lauryl Dimethicone. According to the invention, water-in-silicone oil emulsions contain 0, 1 to 10.0% by weight, preferably 0.2 to 5.0% by weight, particularly preferably 0.5 to 3.0% by weight on the total weight of the preparation, of bis (glyceryl / lauryl) glyceryl / lauryl dimethicone.
Bis-(Glyceryl/Lauryl) Glyceryl/Lauryl Dimethicone kann als Zubereitung mit Caprylic/Capric Triglycerid beispielsweise bei Evonik unter dem Handelsnamen Abil® EM120 erworben werden. Bis- (glyceryl / lauryl) glyceryl / lauryl dimethicone can be purchased as a preparation with caprylic / capric triglyceride, for example, from Evonik under the trade name Abil® EM120.
Da O/W-Emulgatoren normalerweise zur Destabilisierung von W/O-Emulsionen führen, war überraschend, dass Wasser-in-Silikonöl-Emulsionen des erfindungsgemäßen Typs durch Zusatz von hydrophilen Emulgatoren sein würden als ohne. Es war für den Fachmann daher nicht vorauszusehen gewesen, dass die erfindungsgemäßen Zubereitungen durch hydrophile O/W-Emulgatoren, stabilisiert werden. Since O / W emulsifiers normally lead to destabilization of W / O emulsions, it was surprising that water-in-silicone oil emulsions of the type according to the invention would be by the addition of hydrophilic emulsifiers as without. It was therefore unforeseeable for the skilled person that the preparations according to the invention would be stabilized by hydrophilic O / W emulsifiers.
Ferner war unter diesen Auspizien nicht zu erwarten gewesen, dass die erfindungsgemäßen Zubereitungen Furthermore, under these Auspizien was not expected that the preparations of the invention
besser als feuchtigkeitsspendende Zubereitungen wirken,  work better than moisturizing preparations,
einfacher zu formulieren sein,  be easier to formulate
besser die Hautglättung fördern,  better promote skin smoothing,
sich durch besser Pflegewirkung auszeichnen,  characterized by better care,
besser als Vehikel für kosmetische und dermatologische Wirkstoffe dienen  better serve as a vehicle for cosmetic and dermatological agents
bessere sensorische Eigenschaften, wie beispielsweise die Verteilbarkeit auf der Haut oder das Einzugsvermögen in die Haut, aufweisen würden  better sensory properties, such as the skin spread or the skin's ability to absorb
höhere Stabilität gegenüber Zerfall in Öl- und Wasserphasen aufweisen und sich durch bessere Bioverträglichkeit auszeichnen würden als die Zubereitungen des Standes der Technik.  have higher stability to decomposition in oil and water phases and would be characterized by better biocompatibility than the preparations of the prior art.
Die erfindungsgemäßen Zubereitungen sind fließfähig aber auch cremeartig formulierbar, besitzen sehr gute kosmetische Eigenschaften, insbesondere was die Klebrigkeit betrifft, und weisen sehr gute Hautverträglichkeit sowie Hautpflegeleistung auf. The preparations according to the invention are free-flowing but can also be formulated into creams, have very good cosmetic properties, in particular with regard to stickiness, and have very good skin compatibility and skin care performance.
Wenn im Rahmen dieser Erfindung der Begriff„Ölphase" gewählt wird, ist, so umfasst dieser Begriff in der Regel die Gesamtheit von Silikonöl und anderen Ölen, Wachsen und Fetten, jedenfalls soweit nichts ausdrücklich etwas anderes angegeben wird. When the term "oil phase" is selected in the context of this invention, this term generally encompasses the entirety of silicone oil and other oils, waxes and fats, unless expressly stated otherwise.
Erfindungsgemäß ist es möglich und vorteilhaft, den Anteil der Ölphase der erfindungsgemäßen Zubereitungen im Bereich von 3 bis 60 Gew.-%, bezogen auf das Gesamtgewicht der Zubereitungen, frei zu wählen. According to the invention, it is possible and advantageous to freely choose the proportion of the oil phase of the preparations according to the invention in the range from 3 to 60% by weight, based on the total weight of the preparations.
Erfindungsgemäße, Zubereitungen enthalten vorteilhaft ein oder mehrere ober- oder grenzflächenaktive Emulgatoren aus der Gruppe Alkylsulfate, Alkylphosphate und Acylglutamate, insbesondere ihre Alkalisalze. Preparations according to the invention advantageously contain one or more surface-active or surface-active emulsifiers from the group of alkyl sulfates, alkyl phosphates and acyl glutamates, in particular their alkali metal salts.
Erfindungsgemäß eingesetzte Acylglutamate sind durch die allgemeine Struktur O Acylglutamates used according to the invention are of the general structure O
R C HN CH— C O" X RC HN CHCO " X
O CH2 CH2 C^O OH gekennzeichnet. O CH 2 CH 2 C ^ O OH characterized.
Vorzugsweise wird R aus der Gruppe der verzweigten und unverzweigten Alkylgruppen mit 5 bis 25 Kohlenstoffatomen gewählt und unabhängig davon wird X aus der Gruppe Wasserstoff- und Alkalimetallion gewählt. Dabei ist Natriumstearoylglutamat, welches bei der BASF unter dem Handelsnamen Eumulgin SG zu erhalten ist, erfindungsgemäß bevorzugt. Preferably, R is selected from the group of branched and unbranched alkyl groups containing from 5 to 25 carbon atoms, and independently of these, X is selected from the group consisting of hydrogen and alkali metal ions. Here, sodium stearoylglutamate, which is obtainable from BASF under the trade name Eumulgin SG, is preferred according to the invention.
O O
C17H35 C HN CH— C O" Na+ C17H35 C HN CH- CO " Na +
O CH2 CH2 C^O OH O CH 2 CH 2 C 1 OOH
Bevorzugt enthalten kosmetische oder dermatologische Zubereitungen gemäß der Erfindung 0,001 - 10 Gew.-%, bevorzugt 0,01 - 5 Gew.-%, besonders bevorzugt 0, 1 - 1 ,0 Gew.-% an einer oder mehreren ober- oder grenzflächenaktiven Substanz aus der Gruppe der Alkyl- sulfate, Alkylphosphate und / oder Acylglutamate, insbesondere Natriumstearoylglutamat bezogen auf das Gesamtgewicht der Zubereitungen. Cosmetic or dermatological preparations according to the invention preferably contain 0.001-10% by weight, preferably 0.01-5% by weight, particularly preferably 0.1-1.0% by weight, of one or more surface-active or surface-active substances from the group of alkyl sulfates, alkyl phosphates and / or acyl glutamates, in particular sodium stearoyl glutamate, based on the total weight of the preparations.
Ein bevorzugtes Alkalisulfat ist das Natriumcetostearylsulfat (oder auch vereinfacht Natri- umcetearylsulfat genannt), welches bei der BASF unter dem Handelsnamen Lanette E zu erhalten ist. A preferred alkali metal sulphate is sodium cetostearyl sulphate (also referred to simply as sodium cetearyl sulphate), which is obtainable from BASF under the trade name Lanette E.
Ein bevorzugtes Alkylphosphat ist das Kaliumcetylphosphat, welches beispielsweise von der Firma Clariant unter dem Handelsnamen Hostaphat CK 100 angeboten wird. A preferred alkyl phosphate is the potassium cetyl phosphate which is obtained, for example, from the Clariant company under the trade name Hostaphat CK 100 is offered.
Die erfindungsgemäße Öl- bzw. Lipidphase kann dabei alle in kosmetischen Zubereitungen üblichen Öle, Fette, Wachse und/oder Lipide enthalten. The oil or lipid phase according to the invention may contain all oils, fats, waxes and / or lipids customary in cosmetic preparations.
Die Wasserphase der erfindungsgemäßen Zubereitungen kann vorteilhaft übliche kosmetische Hilfsstoffe enthalten, wie beispielsweise Alkohole, insbesondere solche niedriger C- Zahl, vorzugsweise Ethanol und/oder Isopropanol oder Polyole niedriger C-Zahl sowie deren Ether, vorzugsweise Propylenglykol, Glycerin, Ethylenglykol, Ethylenglykolmonoethyl- oder - monobutylether, Propylenglykolmonomethyl, -monoethyl- oder -monobutylether, Diethy- lenglykolmonomethyl- oder -monoethylether und analoge Produkte, Schaumstabilisatoren, Elektrolyte, Selbstbräuner etc. The aqueous phase of the preparations according to the invention may advantageously comprise customary cosmetic auxiliaries, for example alcohols, in particular those of low C number, preferably ethanol and / or isopropanol or polyols of low C number and their ethers, preferably propylene glycol, glycerol, ethylene glycol, ethylene glycol monoethyl or monobutyl ether, propylene glycol monomethyl, monoethyl or monobutyl ether, diethylene glycol monomethyl or monoethyl ether and analogous products, foam stabilizers, electrolytes, self-tanning agents, etc.
Als Grundbestandteile der erfindungsgemäßen Zubereitungen können verwendet werden: As basic components of the preparations according to the invention can be used:
Wasser oder wässrige Lösungen  Water or aqueous solutions
wässrige ethanolische Lösungen  aqueous ethanolic solutions
natürliche Öle und/oder chemisch modifizierte natürliche Öle und/oder synthetische Öle;  natural oils and / or chemically modified natural oils and / or synthetic oils;
Fette, Wachse und andere natürliche und synthetische Fettkörper, vorzugsweise Ester von Fettsäuren mit Alkoholen niedriger C-Zahl, z.B. mit Isopropanol, Propylenglykol oder Glycerin, oder Ester von Fettalkoholen mit Alkansäuren niedriger C-Zahl oder mit Fettsäuren;  Fats, waxes and other natural and synthetic fats, preferably esters of fatty acids with lower C-number alcohols, e.g. with isopropanol, propylene glycol or glycerol, or esters of fatty alcohols with alkanoic acids of low C number or with fatty acids;
Alkohole, Diole oder Polyole niedriger C-Zahl, sowie deren Ether, vorzugsweise Ethanol, Isopropanol, Propylenglykol, Glycerin, Ethylenglykol, Ethylenglykolmonoethyl- oder -monobutylether, Propylenglykolmonomethyl, -monoethyl- oder -monobutylether, Diet- hylenglykolmonomethyl- oder -monoethylether und analoge Produkte.  Alcohols, diols or polyols of low C number, and their ethers, preferably ethanol, isopropanol, propylene glycol, glycerol, ethylene glycol, ethylene glycol monoethyl or monobutyl ether, propylene glycol monomethyl, monoethyl or monobutyl ether, diethylene glycol monomethyl or monoethyl ether and analogous products ,
Insbesondere werden Gemische der vorstehend genannten Lösungsmittel verwendet. In particular, mixtures of the abovementioned solvents are used.
Die Ölphase der Emulsionen im Sinne der vorliegenden Erfindung besteht erfindungsgemäß wenigstens zum Teil aus Silikonölen. The oil phase of the emulsions according to the present invention consists, according to the invention, at least in part of silicone oils.
Es wird bevorzugt, die Ölphase der erfindungsgemäßen Zubereitungen aus der Gruppe der cyclischen und/oder linearen Silicone zu wählen, welche im Rahmen der vorliegenden Offenbarung auch als„Siliconöle" bezeichnet werden. Solche Silicone oder Siliconöle können als Monomere vorliegen, welche in der Regel durch Strukturelemente charakterisiert sind, wie folgt: R2— O— Si— O— R3 It is preferred to choose the oil phase of the preparations according to the invention from the group of cyclic and / or linear silicones, which are also referred to as "silicone oils" within the scope of the present disclosure Such silicones or silicone oils may be present as monomers, which are generally used as monomers Structural elements are characterized as follows: R 2 - O-Si-O-R 3
I  I
R4 R 4
Als erfindungsgemäß vorteilhaft einzusetzenden linearen Silicone mit mehreren Siloxyl- einheiten werden im allgemeinen durch Strukturelemente charakterisiert wie folgt: Linear silicones having a plurality of siloxyl units which are advantageously used according to the invention are generally characterized by structural elements as follows:
Figure imgf000008_0001
Figure imgf000008_0001
wobei die Siliciumatome mit gleichen oder unterschiedlichen Alkylresten und/oder Arylresten substituiert werden können, welche hier verallgemeinernd durch die Reste Ri - R4 dargestellt sind (will sagen, dass die Anzahl der unterschiedlichen Reste nicht notwendig auf bis zu 4 beschränkt ist), m kann dabei Werte von 2 - 200.000 annehmen. wherein the silicon atoms can be substituted with identical or different alkyl radicals and / or aryl radicals, which are here generalized by the radicals Ri - R 4 (to say that the number of different radicals is not necessarily limited to up to 4), m assume values of 2 - 200,000.
Erfindungsgemäß vorteilhaft einzusetzende cyclische Silicone werden im allgemeinen durch Strukturelemente charakterisiert, wie folgt Cyclic silicones which are advantageously used in accordance with the invention are generally characterized by structural elements as follows
Figure imgf000008_0002
wobei die Siliciumatome mit gleichen oder unterschiedlichen Alkylresten und/oder Arylresten substituiert werden können, welche hier verallgemeinernd durch die Reste Ri - R4 dargestellt sind (will sagen, dass die Anzahl der unterschiedlichen Reste nicht notwendig auf bis zu 4 beschränkt ist), n kann dabei Werte von 3/2 bis 20 annehmen. Gebrochene Werte für n berücksichtigen, dass ungeradzahlige Anzahlen von Siloxylgruppen im Cyclus vorhanden sein können. Vorteilhaft wird Phenyltrimethicon als Siliconöl gewählt. Auch andere Silikonöle, beispielsweise Dimethicon, Phenyldimethicon, Cyclomethicon (Octamethylcyclotetrasiloxan) beispielsweise Hexamethylcyclotrisiloxan, Polydimethylsiloxan, Poly(methylphenylsiloxan), Cetyldimethicon, Behenoxydimethicon sind vorteilhaft im Sinne der vorliegenden Erfindung zu verwenden.
Figure imgf000008_0002
wherein the silicon atoms can be substituted with identical or different alkyl radicals and / or aryl radicals, which are here generalized by the radicals Ri - R 4 (to say that the number of different radicals is not necessarily limited to 4), n assume values of 3/2 to 20. Broken values for n take into account that odd numbers of siloxyl groups may be present in the cycle. Advantageously, phenyltrimethicone is chosen as the silicone oil. Other silicone oils, for example dimethicone, phenyldimethicone, cyclomethicone (octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane), for example hexamethylcyclotrisiloxane, polydimethylsiloxane, poly (methylphenylsiloxane), cetyldimethicone, behenoxydimethicone, are to be used advantageously in the context of the present invention.
Vorteilhaft sind ferner Mischungen aus Cyclomethicon und Isotridecylisononanoat, sowie solche aus Cyclomethicon und 2-Ethylhexylisostearat. Also advantageous are mixtures of cyclomethicone and Isotridecylisononanoat, and those of cyclomethicone and 2-Ethylhexylisostearat.
Es ist aber auch vorteilhaft, Silikonöle ähnlicher Konstitution wie der vorstehend bezeichneten Verbindungen zu wählen, deren organische Seitenketten derivatisiert, beispielsweise polyethoxyliert und/oder polypropoxyliert sind. Dazu zählen beispielsweise Polysiloxan- polyalkyl-polyether-copolymere wie das Cetyl-Dimethicon-Copolyol, das (Cetyl-Dimethicon- Copolyol (und) Polyglyceryl-4-lsostearat (und) Hexyllaurat) However, it is also advantageous to choose silicone oils of similar constitution as the compounds described above, whose organic side chains are derivatized, for example polyethoxylated and / or polypropoxylated. These include, for example, polysiloxane-polyalkyl-polyether copolymers, such as the cetyl-dimethicone copolyol, the (cetyl-dimethicone copolyol (and) polyglyceryl-4-isostearate (and) hexyl laurate)
Es ist allerdings möglich, ohne große Nachteile in Kauf zu nehmen, Olkomponenten aus der Gruppe anderer Olkomponenten zu wählen. Diese können dann vorteilhaft gewählt werden aus der Gruppe der Ester aus gesättigten und/oder ungesättigten, verzweigten und/oder unverzweigten Alkancarbonsäuren einer Kettenlänge von 3 bis 30 C-Atomen und gesättigten und/oder ungesättigten, verzweigten und/oder unverzweigten Alkoholen einer Kettenlänge von 3 bis 30 C-Atomen, aus der Gruppe der Ester aus aromatischen Carbonsäuren und gesättigten und/oder ungesättigten, verzweigten und/oder unverzweigten Alkoholen einer Kettenlänge von 3 bis 30 C-Atomen. Solche Esteröle können dann vorteilhaft gewählt werden aus der Gruppe Isopropylmyristat, Isopropylpalmitat, Isopropylstearat, Isopropyloleat, n- Butylstearat, n-Hexyllaurat, n-Decyloleat, Isooctylstearat, Isononylstearat, Isononylisono- nanoat, 2-Ethylhexylpalmitat, 2-Ethylhexyllaurat, 2-Hexyldecylstearat, 2-Octyldodecylpalmi- tat, Oleyloleat, Oleylerucat, Erucyloleat, Erucylerucat sowie synthetische, halbsynthetische und natürliche Gemische solcher Ester, z.B. Jojobaöl. However, it is possible to accept without major disadvantages to choose oil components from the group of other oil components. These can then be advantageously selected from the group of esters of saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alkanecarboxylic acids having a chain length of 3 to 30 carbon atoms and saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alcohols having a chain length of 3 to 30 carbon atoms, from the group of esters of aromatic carboxylic acids and saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alcohols having a chain length of 3 to 30 carbon atoms. Such ester oils can then advantageously be selected from the group isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, isopropyl stearate, isopropyl oleate, n-butyl stearate, n-hexyl laurate, n-decyl oleate, isooctyl stearate, isononyl stearate, isononyl isononanoate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, 2-ethylhexyl laurate, 2-hexyldecyl stearate, 2-octyldodecyl palmitate, oleyl oleate, oleyl erucate, erucyl oleate, erucyl erucate and also synthetic, semisynthetic and natural mixtures of such esters, eg Jojoba oil.
Ferner kann die Ölphase teilweise vorteilhaft gewählt werden aus der Gruppe der verzweigten und unverzweigten Kohlenwasserstoffe und -wachse, der Dialkylether, der Gruppe der gesättigten oder ungesättigten, verzweigten oder unverzweigten Alkohole, sowie der Fett- säuretriglyceride, namentlich der Triglycerinester gesättigter und/oder ungesättigter, verzweigter und/oder unverzweigter Alkancarbonsäuren einer Kettenlänge von 8 bis 24, insbesondere 12 - 18 C-Atomen. Die Fettsäuretriglyceride können beispielsweise vorteilhaft gewählt werden aus der Gruppe der synthetischen, halbsynthetischen und natürlichen Öle, z.B. Olivenöl, Sonnenblumenöl, Sojaöl, Erdnußöl, Rapsöl, Mandelöl, Palmöl, Kokosöl, Palmkernol und dergleichen mehr. Furthermore, the oil phase can be advantageously selected in part from the group of branched and unbranched hydrocarbons and waxes, the dialkyl ethers, the group of saturated or unsaturated, branched or unbranched alcohols, and the fatty acid triglycerides, in particular the triglycerol esters of saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alkanecarboxylic acids of a chain length of 8 to 24, in particular 12 to 18 carbon atoms. The fatty acid triglycerides can be selected, for example, advantageously from the group of synthetic, semi-synthetic and natural oils, eg Olive oil, sunflower oil, soybean oil, peanut oil, rapeseed oil, almond oil, palm oil, coconut oil, palm kernel oil, and the like.
Erfindungsgemäß vorteilhaft zu verwendende Fett- und/oder Wachskomponenten können aus der Gruppe der pflanzlichen Wachse, tierischen Wachse, Mineralwachse und petroche- mischen Wachse gewählt werden. Erfindungsgemäß günstig sind beispielsweise Candelilla- wachs, Carnaubawachs, Japanwachs, Espartograswachs, Korkwachs, Guarumawachs, Reiskeimölwachs, Zuckerrohrwachs, Beerenwachs, Ouricurywachs, Montanwachs, Jojoba- wachs, Shea Butter, Bienenwachs, Schellackwachs, Walrat, Lanolin (Wollwachs), Bürzelfett, Ceresin, Ozokerit (Erdwachs), Paraffin wachse und Mikrowachse. Fat and / or wax components which can advantageously be used according to the invention can be selected from the group of vegetable waxes, animal waxes, mineral waxes and petrochemical waxes. Favorable according to the invention are, for example, candelilla wax, carnauba wax, Japan wax, esparto grass wax, cork wax, guaruma wax, rice germ oil wax, sugarcane wax, berry wax, ouricury wax, montan wax, jojoba wax, shea butter, beeswax, shellac wax, spermaceti, lanolin (wool wax), crepe fat, ceresin, Ozokerite (wax), paraffin waxes and microwaxes.
Weitere vorteilhafte Fett- und/oder Wachskomponenten sind chemisch modifizierte Wachse und synthetische Wachse, wie beispielsweise die unter den Handelsbezeichnungen Syn- crowax HRC (Glyceryltribehenat), Syncrowax HGLC (Ci6-36 -Fettsäuretriglycerid) und Syncro- wax AW 1 C (C-I8-36 -Fettsäure) bei der CRODA GmbH erhältlichen sowie Montanesterwachse, Sasolwachse, hydrierte Jojobawachse, synthetische oder modifizierte Bienenwachse (z. B. Dimethicon Copolyol Bienenwachs und/oder C3o-so -Alkyl Bienenwachs), Poly- alkylenwachse, Polyethylenglykolwachse, aber auch chemisch modifzierte Fette, wie z. B. hydrierte Pflanzenöle (beispielsweise hydriertes Ricinusöl und/oder hydrierte Cocosfettgly- ceride), Triglyceride, wie beispielsweise Trihydroxystearin, Fettsäuren, Fettsäureester und Glykolester, wie beispielsweise C2o-4o-Alkylstearat, C2o-4o-Alkylhydroxystearoylstearat und/oder Glykolmontanat. Weiter vorteilhaft sind auch bestimmte Organosiliciumverbindun- gen, die ähnliche physikalische Eigenschaften aufweisen wie die genannten Fett- und/oder Wachskomponenten, wie beispielsweise Stearoxytrimethylsilan. Further advantageous fat and / or wax components are chemically modified waxes and synthetic waxes, such as, for example, those sold under the trade names Syraxax HRC (glyceryl tribehenate), Syncrowax HGLC (C 16-36 fatty acid triglyceride) and Syncro wax AW 1 C (C-18 And montan ester waxes, Sasol waxes, hydrogenated jojoba waxes, synthetic or modified beeswaxes (eg dimethicone copolyol beeswax and / or C3o-so-alkyl beeswax), polyalkylene waxes, polyethylene glycol waxes, but also chemically Modified fats, such as. Hydrogenated vegetable oils (eg hydrogenated castor oil and / or hydrogenated coconut fatty glycerides), triglycerides such as trihydroxystearin, fatty acids, fatty acid esters and glycol esters such as C2o-4o-alkyl stearate, C2o-4o-alkylhydroxystearoyl stearate and / or glycol montanate. Also advantageous are certain organosilicon compounds which have similar physical properties to the fatty and / or wax components mentioned, such as, for example, stearoxytrimethylsilane.
Erfindungsgemäß können die Fett- und/oder Wachskomponenten sowohl einzeln als auch im Gemisch vorliegen. According to the invention, the fat and / or wax components can be present both individually and in a mixture.
Auch Abmischungen solcher Öl- und Wachskomponenten sind vorteilhaft im Sinne der vorliegenden Erfindung einzusetzen. Es kann auch gegebenenfalls vorteilhaft sein, Wachse, beispielsweise Cetylpalmitat, als alleinige Lipidkomponente der Ölphase einzusetzen. Blends of such oil and wax components are also advantageous to use in the context of the present invention. It may also be advantageous, if appropriate, to use waxes, for example cetyl palmitate, as the sole lipid component of the oil phase.
Vorteilhaft werden die Olkomponenten gewählt aus der Gruppe 2-Ethylhexylisostearat, Octyl- dodecanol, Isotridecylisononanoat, Isoeicosan, 2-Ethylhexylcocoat, Ci2-i5-Alkylbenzoat, Capryl-Caprinsäure-triglycerid, Dicaprylylether. Besonders vorteilhaft sind Mischungen aus Ci2-is-Alkybenzoat und 2-Ethylhexylisostearat, Mischungen aus Ci2-is-Alkybenzoat und Isotridecylisononanoat sowie Mischungen aus C12- 15-Alkybenzoat, 2-Ethylhexylisostearat und Isotridecylisononanoat. Advantageously, the oil components are selected from the group consisting of 2-ethylhexyl isostearate, octyldodecanol, isotridecyl isononanoate, isoeicosane, 2-ethylhexyl cocoate, C 12-15 -alkyl benzoate, caprylic capric acid triglyceride, dicaprylyl ether. Particularly advantageous are mixtures of C 12-15 -alkyl benzoate and 2-ethylhexyl isostearate, mixtures of C 12-18 -alkyl benzoate and isotridecyl isononanoate and also mixtures of C 12-15 -alkyl benzoate, 2-ethylhexyl isostearate and isotridecyl isononanoate.
Von den Kohlenwasserstoffen sind Paraffinöl, Cycloparaffin, Squalan, Squalen, hydriertes Polyisobuten bzw. Polydecen vorteilhaft im Sinne der vorliegenden Erfindung zu verwenden. Of the hydrocarbons, paraffin oil, cycloparaffin, squalane, squalene, hydrogenated polyisobutene or polydecene are to be used advantageously in the context of the present invention.
Es ist erfindungsgemäß vorteilhaft, wenn die Zubereitung Siloxanelastomere enthält. It is advantageous according to the invention if the preparation contains siloxane elastomers.
Erfindungsgemäß bevorzugte Ausführungsformen der vorliegenden Erfindung sind dadurch gekennzeichnet, dass die Zubereitung Siloxanelastomere in einer Konzentration von 5 bis 25 Gew.-%, bezogen auf das Gesamtgewicht der Zubereitung, enthält. Embodiments of the present invention which are preferred according to the invention are characterized in that the preparation contains siloxane elastomers in a concentration of 5 to 25% by weight, based on the total weight of the preparation.
Bei den erfindungsgemäßen Silikonelastomeren handelt es sich um vernetzte, ggf. substituierte Organopolysiloxane, die in einem geeigneten Trägermedium gequollen sind. Die Vernetzung kann mittels aller gängigen Verfahren und Vernetzern durchgeführt worden sein. Trägermedien können z.B. cyclische oder lineare Silikone sowie organische Lipide sein. Geeignete kommerziell erhältliche Silikonelastomergele sind z.B. KSG-15, KSG-16, KSG-18, KSG-210, KSG-310, KSG-320, KSG-330, KSG-340, KSG-41 , KSG-42, KSG-43, KSG-44, KSG-710, KSG-810, KSG-820, KSG-830, KSG-840 von Shin Etsu, Velvesil DM, Velvesil 125, Velvesil Plus, oder andere Velvesil-Gel Typen oder Silsoft Silicone Gel von Momentive, oder EL-8040 ID, EL-8050 ID, EL-8051 IN, EL-8052, 9040, 9041 , 9045, oder EL-9140 DM von Dow Corning. The silicone elastomers according to the invention are crosslinked, optionally substituted organopolysiloxanes which have swollen in a suitable carrier medium. The crosslinking may have been carried out by means of all common methods and crosslinkers. Carrier media may e.g. cyclic or linear silicones as well as organic lipids. Suitable commercially available silicone elastomer gels are e.g. KSG-15, KSG-16, KSG-18, KSG-210, KSG-310, KSG-320, KSG-330, KSG-340, KSG-41, KSG-42, KSG-43, KSG-44, KSG 710, KSG-810, KSG-820, KSG-830, KSG-840 from Shin Etsu, Velvesil DM, Velvesil 125, Velvesil Plus, or other Velvesil gel types or Silsoft Silicone Gel from Momentive, or EL-8040 ID, EL -8050 ID, EL-8051 IN, EL-8052, 9040, 9041, 9045, or EL-9140 DM from Dow Corning.
Es hat sich gezeigt, dass eine zufriedenstellende Stabilisierung und Viskosität insbesondere in Kombination mit mindestens einem weiteren, partikulären Stoff erreicht werden kann. Besonders bevorzugt werden hier partikuläre Stoffe eingesetzt, die auf Silizium basieren, insbesondere Silikate, Silikone und modifizierte Silikone, bzw. Silikon-Hybrid Polymere. It has been found that a satisfactory stabilization and viscosity can be achieved, in particular in combination with at least one further, particulate substance. Particular preference is given here to particulate substances based on silicon, in particular silicates, silicones and modified silicones or silicone-hybrid polymers.
Geeignete partikuläre Stoffe sind z.B. auf Silica basierende Partikel, wie z.B. Aerosil-Typen von Evonik, oder VM-2270 Aerogel Fine Particles von Dow Corning, auf Silikon basierende Partikel wie 9506 Powder, 9701 Cosmetic Powder, EP-9215 Cosmetic Powder, EP-9261 Ti Cosmetic Powder, EP-9289 EP Cosmetic Powder, oder EP-9289 AL Cosmetic Powder von Dow Corning, KMP-590, KSP-100, KSP-101 , KSP-105 oder KSP-300 von Shin Etsu, oder Velvesil FX oder andere Velvesil-Typen von Momentive. Ein Beispiel für ein Silikon-Hybrid Polymerpartikel ist das kürzlich vorgestellte, experimentelle KR 1891 von Evonik, welches ein Silikonmethacrylat ist. Erfindungsgemäß können zusätzlichen Emulgatoren vorteilhaft aus der Gruppe der Siliko- nemulgatoren gewählt werden, diese wiederum vorteilhaft aus der Gruppe der grenzflächenaktiven Substanzen aus der Gruppe der Alkylmethiconcopolyole und/oder Alkyl-Dime- thiconcopolyole, insbesondere aus der Gruppe der Verbindungen, welche gekennzeichnet sind durch die folgende chemische Struktur: Suitable particulates are, for example, silica-based particles such as Aerosil types from Evonik, or VM-2270 Airgel Fine Particles from Dow Corning, silicone-based particles such as 9506 Powder, 9701 Cosmetic Powder, EP-9215 Cosmetic Powder, EP-9261 Ti Cosmetic Powder, EP-9289 EP Cosmetic Powder, or EP-9289 AL Cosmetic Powder from Dow Corning, KMP-590, KSP-100, KSP-101, KSP-105 or KSP-300 from Shin Etsu, or Velvesil FX or others Velvesil types from Momentive. An example of a silicone-hybrid polymer particle is the recently presented experimental KR 1891 from Evonik, which is a silicone methacrylate. According to the invention, additional emulsifiers can advantageously be selected from the group of silicone emulsifiers, these in turn advantageously from the group of surface-active substances from the group of alkyl methicone copolyols and / or alkyl dimethicone copolyols, in particular from the group of compounds which are characterized by following chemical structure:
Figure imgf000012_0001
Figure imgf000012_0001
bei welcher X und Y unabhängig voneinander gewählt werden aus der Gruppe H sowie der verzweigten und unverzweigten Alkylgruppen, Acylgruppen und Alkoxygruppen mit 1 - 24 Kohlenstoffatomen, p eine Zahl von 0 - 200 darstellt, q eine Zahl von 1 - 40 darstellt, und r eine Zahl von 1 - 100 darstellt. in which X and Y are independently selected from the group H and the branched and unbranched alkyl groups, acyl groups and alkoxy groups having 1 to 24 carbon atoms, p is a number from 0 to 200, q is a number from 1 to 40, and r is one Number from 1 - 100 represents.
Ein Beispiel für besonders vorteilhaft im Sinne der vorliegenden Erfindung zu verwendende Silikonemulgatoren ist das Cetyl Dimethiconcopolyol, welches von der Gesellschaft An example of silicone emulsifiers to be used particularly advantageously for the purposes of the present invention is cetyl dimethicone copolyol, which is available from the company
Th. Goldschmidt AG unter der Warenbezeichnung ABIL® EM 90 verkauft wird. Th. Goldschmidt AG under the trade name ABIL® EM 90 is sold.
Ein weiteres Beispiel für besonders vorteilhaft im Sinne der vorliegenden Erfindung zu verwendende Silikonemulgatoren ist das Cyclomethicon Dimethiconcopolyol, welches von der Gesellschaft Th. Goldschmidt AG unter der Warenbezeichnung ABIL® EM 97 verkauft wird. A further example of silicone emulsifiers to be used particularly advantageously for the purposes of the present invention is the cyclomethicone dimethicone copolyol, which is sold by the company Th. Goldschmidt AG under the trade name ABIL® EM 97.
Weiterhin hat sich als ganz besonders vorteilhaft der Silikonemulgator Laurylmethiconcopo- lyol herausgestellt, welcher unter der Warenbezeichnung Dow Corning® 5200 Formulation Aid von der Gesellschaft Dow Corning Ltd. erhältlich ist. Furthermore, the silicone emulsifier laurylmethicone copolyol which has been sold under the trade name Dow Corning® 5200 Formulation Aid by the company Dow Corning Ltd. has proved particularly advantageous. is available.
Zubereitungen entsprechend der vorliegenden Erfindung können auch einen oder mehrere zusätzliche Nicht-Silikon-Emulgatoren enthalten, beispielsweise vorteilhaft gewählt aus der Gruppe der folgenden Substanzen, die in der Regel als W/O-Emulgatoren wirken. Formulations according to the present invention may also contain one or more additional non-silicone emulsifiers, for example advantageously selected from the group of the following substances, which as a rule act as W / O emulsifiers.
Sorbitanstearat, Sorbitanoleat, Lecithin, Glyceryllanolat, Lanolin, mikrokristallines Wachs (Cera microcristallina) im Gemisch mit Paraffinol (Paraffinum liquidum), Ozokerit, hydriertem Ricinusöl, Glycerylisostearat, Polyglyceryl-3-Oleat, Wollwachssäuregemische, Wollwachsal- koholgemische, Pentaerythrithylisostearat, Polyglyceryl-3 Diisostearat, Sorbitan Oleat im Gemisch mit hydriertem Ricinusöl, Bienenwachs (Cera alba) und Stearinsäure, Natriumdihy- droxycetylphosphat im Gemisch mit Isopropylhydroxycetylether, Methylglucosedioleat, Me- thylglucosedioleat im Gemisch mit Hydroxystearat und Bienenwachs, Mineralöl im Gemisch mit Petrolatum und Ozokerit und Glyceryloleat und Lanolinalkohol, Petrolatum im Gemisch mit Ozokerit und hydriertem Ricinusöl und Glycerylisostearat und Polyglyceryl-3-oleat, PEG- 7-hydriertes Ricinusöl, Sorbitanoleat im Gemisch mit PEG-2-hydriertem Ricinusöl, Ozokerit und hydriertem Ricinusöl, Sorbitanisostearat im Gemisch mit PEG-2-hydriertem Ricinusöl, Polyglyceryl-4-isostearat, Polyglyceryl-4-isostearat im Gemisch mit Cetyldimethiconcopolyol und Hexyllaurat, Laurylmethiconcopolyol, Cetyldimethiconcopolyol, Acrylat/ Cio-30-Alkylacry- lat-Crosspolymer, Sorbitanisostearat, Poloxamer 101 , Polyglyceryl-2-dipolyhydroxystearat, Polyglyceryl-3-Diisostearat, Polyglyceryl-4-dipolyhydroxystearat, PEG-30-dipolyhydroxy- stearat, Diisostearoylpolyglyceryl-3-diisostearat, Polyglyceryl-2-dipolyhydroxystearat, Poly- glyceryl-3-dipolyhydroxystearat, Polyglyceryl-4-dipolyhydroxystearat, Polyglyceryl-3-dioleat. Sorbitan stearate, sorbitan oleate, lecithin, glyceryl lanolate, lanolin, microcrystalline wax (Cera microcristallina) mixed with paraffinol (paraffinum liquidum), ozokerite, hydrogenated castor oil, glyceryl isostearate, polyglyceryl-3-oleate, wool wax acid mixtures, wool-wax mixed with water, pentaerythritol isostearate, polyglyceryl-3 diisostearate, sorbitan oleate mixed with hydrogenated castor oil, beeswax (Cera alba) and stearic acid, sodium dihydroxycetyl phosphate in admixture with isopropylhydroxycetyl ether, methyl glucose dioleate, methyl glucose dioleate mixed with hydroxystearate and beeswax, mineral oil mixed with petrolatum and ozokerite and glyceryl oleate and lanolin alcohol, petrolatum mixed with ozokerite and hydrogenated castor oil and glyceryl isostearate and polyglyceryl-3-oleate, PEG-7 hydrogenated castor oil, sorbitan oleate mixed with PEG-2-hydrogenated castor oil, ozokerite and hydrogenated castor oil, sorbitan isostearate in the mixture with PEG-2-hydrogenated castor oil, polyglyceryl-4-isostearate, polyglyceryl-4-isostearate in admixture with cetyl dimethicone copolyol and hexyl laurate, lauryl methicone copolyol, cetyl dimethicone copolyol, acrylate / Cio-30 alkyl acrylate crosspolymer, sorbitan isostearate, poloxamer 101, polyglyceryl-2 dipolyhydroxystearate, poly glyceryl-3-diisostearate, polyglyceryl-4-dipolyhydroxystearate, PEG-30-dipolyhydroxy-stearate, diisostearoylpolyglyceryl-3-diisostearate, polyglyceryl-2-dipolyhydroxystearate, polyglyceryl-3-dipolyhydroxystearate, polyglyceryl-4-dipolyhydroxystearate, polyglyceryl-3- dioleate.
Zubereitungen entsprechend der vorliegenden Erfindung können auch einen oder mehrere zusätzliche Nicht-Silikon-Emulgatoren enthalten, beispielsweise vorteilhaft gewählt aus der Gruppe der folgenden Substanzen, die in der Regel als O/W-Emulgatoren wirken: Formulations according to the present invention may also contain one or more additional non-silicone emulsifiers, for example advantageously selected from the group of the following substances, which as a rule act as O / W emulsifiers:
Glycerylstearat im Gemisch mit Ceteareth-20, Ceteareth-25, Ceteareth-6 im Gemisch mit Stearylalcohol, Cetylstearylalcohol im Gemisch mit PEG-40-Ricinusöl und Natrium- cetylstearylsulfat, Triceteareth-4 Phosphat, Glycerylstearat, Natriumcetylstearylsulfat, Lecithin Trilaureth-4 Phosphat, Laureth-4 Phosphat, Stearinsäure, Propylenglycolstearat SE, PEG-25-hydriertes Ricinusöl, PEG-54-hydriertes Ricinusöl, PEG-6 Caprylsäu- re/Caprinsäureglyceride, Glyceryloleat im Gemisch mit Propylenglycol, PEG-9-Stearat, Ce- teth-2, Ceteth-20, Polysorbat 60, Glycerylstearat im Gemisch mit PEG-100 Stearat, Glyceryl- myristat, Glyceryllaurat, PEG-40-Sorbitanperoleat, Laureth-4, Ceteareth-3, Isostearylglyceryl- ether, Cetylstearylalkohol im Gemisch mit Natrium Cetylstearylsulfat, Laureth-23, Steareth-2, Glycerylstearat im Gemisch mit PEG-30 Stearat, PEG-40-Stearat, Glycol Distearat, PEG-22- Dodecyl Glycol Copolymer, Polyglyceryl-2-PEG-4-Stearat, Ceteareth-20, Methylglucoseses- quistearat, Steareth-10, PEG-20-Stearat, Steareth-2 im Gemisch mit PEG-8 Distearat, Stea- reth-21 , Steareth-20, lsosteareth-20, PEG-45/ Dodecylglycol-Copolymer, Methoxy-PEG- 22/Dodecylglycol-Copolymer, PEG-40-Sorbitanperoleat, PEG-40-Sorbitanperisostearat, PEG-20-Glycerylstearat, PEG-20-Glycerylstearat, PEG-8-Bienenwachs, Polyglyceryl-2-lau- rat, Isostearyldiglycerylsuccinat, Stearamidopropyl-PG-dimoniumchloridphosphat, Glycerylstearat SE, Ceteth-20, Triethylcitrat, PEG-20-Methylglucosesesquistearat, Ceteareth-12, Gly- cerylstearatcitrat, Cetylphosphat, Sorbitansesquioleat, Triceteareth-4-Phosphat, Trilaureth-4- Phosphat, Polyglycerylmethylglucosedistearat, Kaliumcetylphosphat, lsosteareth-10, Poly- glyceryl-2-sesquiisostearat, Ceteth-10, Oleth-20, lsoceteth-20, Glycerylstearat im Gemisch mit Ceteareth-20, Ceteareth-12, Cetylstearylalcohol und Cetylpalmitat, Cetylstearylalcohol im Gemisch mit PEG-20 Stearat, PEG-30-Stearat, PEG-40-Stearat, PEG-100-Stearat. Glyceryl stearate in admixture with ceteareth-20, ceteareth-25, ceteareth-6 in admixture with stearyl alcohol, cetyl stearyl alcohol in admixture with PEG-40 castor oil and sodium cetyl stearyl sulfate, triceteareth-4 phosphate, glyceryl stearate, sodium cetyl stearyl sulfate, lecithin trilaureth-4 phosphate, laureth -4 phosphate, stearic acid, propylene glycol stearate SE, PEG-25 hydrogenated castor oil, PEG-54 hydrogenated castor oil, PEG-6 caprylic acid / capric acid glycerides, glyceryl oleate mixed with propylene glycol, PEG-9 stearate, ceteth-2, Ceteth-20, polysorbate 60, glyceryl stearate in admixture with PEG-100 stearate, glyceryl myristate, glyceryl laurate, PEG-40 sorbitan peroleate, laureth-4, ceteareth-3, isostearyl glyceryl ether, cetyl stearyl alcohol in admixture with sodium cetyl stearyl sulfate, laureth-23 , Steareth-2, glyceryl stearate in admixture with PEG-30 stearate, PEG-40 stearate, glycol distearate, PEG-22 dodecyl glycol copolymer, polyglyceryl-2-PEG-4 stearate, ceteareth-20, methyl glucose sesquearate, steareth -10, PEG-20 stearate, steareth-2 admixed with PEG-8 distearate, steareth-21, steareth-20, isosteareth-20, PEG-45 / dodecyl glycol copolymer, methoxy-PEG-22 / dodecyl glycol copolymer, PEG 40 sorbitan peroleate, PEG-40 sorbitan perisostearate, PEG-20 glyceryl stearate, PEG-20 glyceryl stearate, PEG-8 beeswax, polyglyceryl-2-laurate, isostearyl diglyceryl succinate, stearamidopropyl PG-dimonium chloride phosphate, glyceryl stearate SE, ceteth- 20, triethyl citrate, PEG-20-methyl glucose sesquistearate, ceteareth-12, glyceryl stearate citrate, cetyl phosphate, sorbitan sesquioleate, triceteareth-4-phosphate, trilaureth-4 Phosphate, polyglyceryl methyl glucose distearate, potassium cetyl phosphate, isosteareth-10, polyglyceryl-2-sesquiisostearate, ceteth-10, oleth-20, isoceteth-20, glyceryl stearate in admixture with ceteareth-20, ceteareth-12, cetylstearyl alcohol and cetyl palmitate, cetylstearyl alcohol in admixture with PEG-20 stearate, PEG-30 stearate, PEG-40 stearate, PEG-100 stearate.
Es war insbesondere überraschend, dass erfindungsgemäße kosmetische oder dermatologische Zubereitungen ganz besonders vorteilhafte Eigenschaften aufweisen. It was particularly surprising that cosmetic or dermatological preparations according to the invention have very particularly advantageous properties.
Die Gesamtmenge an erfindungsgemäß verwendeten Silikonemulgatoren in den erfindungsgemäßen kosmetischen oder dermatologischen Zubereitungen wird vorteilhaft aus dem Bereich von 0,1 - 10,0 Gew.-%, bevorzugt 0,2 - 5,0 Gew.-% gewählt, bezogen auf das Gesamtgewicht der Zubereitungen. The total amount of silicone emulsifiers used according to the invention in the cosmetic or dermatological preparations according to the invention is advantageously selected from the range of 0.1-10.0% by weight, preferably 0.2-5.0% by weight, based on the total weight of the preparations.
Die Gesamtmenge an erfindungsgemäß verwendeten Nicht-Silikon-Emulgatoren in den erfindungsgemäßen kosmetischen oder dermatologischen Zubereitungen wird vorteilhaft aus dem Bereich von 0,001 - 10,0 Gew.-%, bevorzugt 0,01 - 5,0 Gew.-% gewählt, bezogen auf das Gesamtgewicht der Zubereitungen. The total amount of non-silicone emulsifiers used according to the invention in the cosmetic or dermatological preparations according to the invention is advantageously selected from the range of 0.001-10.0% by weight, preferably 0.01-5.0% by weight, based on the Total weight of the preparations.
Erfindungsgemäße Emulsionen im Sinne der vorliegenden Erfindung, z.B. in Form einer Hautschutzcreme, einer Hautlotion, einer kosmetischen Milch, beispielsweise in Form einer Sonnenschutzcreme oder einer Sonnenschutzmilch, sind vorteilhaft und enthalten z.B. Fette, Öle, Wachse und/oder andere Fettkörper, sowie Wasser und einen oder mehrere Emulga- toren, wie sie üblicherweise für einen solchen Typ der Formulierung verwendet werden. Emulsions according to the invention for the purposes of the present invention, e.g. in the form of a skin protection cream, a skin lotion, a cosmetic milk, for example in the form of a sunscreen cream or a sunscreen milk, are advantageous and contain e.g. Fats, oils, waxes and / or other fatty substances, as well as water and one or more emulsifiers, as they are commonly used for such a type of formulation.
Es ist dem Fachmanne natürlich bekannt, dass anspruchsvolle kosmetische Zusammensetzungen zumeist nicht ohne die üblichen Hilfs- und Zusatzstoffe denkbar sind. Darunter zählen beispielsweise Konsistenzgeber, Füllstoffe, Parfüm, Farbstoffe, Emulgatoren, zusätzliche Wirkstoffe wie Vitamine oder Proteine, Lichtschutzmittel, Stabilisatoren, Insek- tenrepellentien, Alkohol, Wasser, Salze, antimikrobiell, proteolytisch oder keratolytisch wirksame Substanzen usw. Of course, it is known to the person skilled in the art that sophisticated cosmetic compositions are generally not conceivable without the customary auxiliaries and additives. These include, for example, bodying agents, fillers, perfume, dyes, emulsifiers, additional active ingredients such as vitamins or proteins, light stabilizers, stabilizers, insect repellents, alcohol, water, salts, antimicrobial, proteolytic or keratolytic substances, etc.
Mutatis mutandis gelten entsprechende Anforderungen an die Formulierung medizinischer Zubereitungen. Mutatis mutandis, corresponding requirements apply to the formulation of medical preparations.
Medizinische topische Zusammensetzungen im Sinne der vorliegenden Erfindung enthalten in der Regel ein oder mehrere Medikamente in wirksamer Konzentration. Der Einfachheit halber wird zur sauberen Unterscheidung zwischen kosmetischer und medizinischer Anwen- dung und entsprechenden Produkten auf die gesetzlichen Bestimmungen der Bundesrepublik Deutschland verwiesen (z.B. Kosmetikverordnung, Lebensmittel- und Arzneimittelgesetz). Medicinal topical compositions according to the present invention usually contain one or more drugs in effective concentration. For the sake of simplicity, a clear distinction will be made between cosmetic and medical applications. refer to the statutory provisions of the Federal Republic of Germany (eg Cosmetics Ordinance, Food and Medicinal Products Act).
Entsprechend können kosmetische oder topische dermatologische Zusammensetzungen im Sinne der vorliegenden Erfindung, je nach ihrem Aufbau, beispielsweise verwendet werden als Hautschutzcreme, Reinigungsmilch, Sonnenschutzlotion, Nährcreme, Tages- oder Nachtcreme usw. Es ist gegebenenfalls möglich und vorteilhaft, die erfindungsgemäßen Zusammensetzungen als Grundlage für pharmazeutische Formulierungen zu verwenden. Accordingly, cosmetic or topical dermatological compositions according to the present invention, depending on their structure, for example, be used as skin protection cream, cleansing milk, sunscreen lotion, nutrient cream, day or night cream, etc. It is possible and advantageous, the compositions of the invention as a basis for pharmaceutical To use formulations.
Es ist ebenfalls von Vorteil, von den erfindungsgemäßen Eigenschaften in Form von dekorativen Kosmetika (Make-Up-Formulierungen) Gebrauch zu machen. It is also advantageous to make use of the properties according to the invention in the form of decorative cosmetics (make-up formulations).
Günstig sind auch solche kosmetischen und dermatologischen Zubereitungen, die in der Form eines Sonnenschutzmittels vorliegen. Vorzugsweise enthalten diese neben dem erfindungsgemäß verwendeten Wirkstoff zusätzlich mindestens eine UVA-Filtersubstanz und/oder mindestens eine UVB-Filtersubstanz und/oder mindestens ein anorganisches Pigment. Also favorable are those cosmetic and dermatological preparations which are in the form of a sunscreen. In addition to the active substance used according to the invention, these preferably additionally contain at least one UVA filter substance and / or at least one UVB filter substance and / or at least one inorganic pigment.
Es ist aber auch vorteilhaft im Sinne der vorliegenden Erfindungen, solche kosmetischen und dermatologischen Zubereitungen zu erstellen, deren hauptsächlicher Zweck nicht der Schutz vor Sonnenlicht ist, die aber dennoch einen Gehalt an UV-Schutzsubstanzen enthalten. So werden beispielsweise in Tagescremes gewöhnlich UV-A- bzw. UV-B-Filtersubstanzen eingearbeitet. However, it is also advantageous in the context of the present inventions to prepare such cosmetic and dermatological preparations whose main purpose is not the protection from sunlight, but which nevertheless contain a content of UV protective substances. Thus, for example, UV-A or UV-B filter substances are usually incorporated in day creams.
Vorteilhaft können erfindungsgemäße Zubereitungen Substanzen enthalten, die UV-Strahlung im UVB-Bereich absorbieren, wobei die Gesamtmenge der Filtersubstanzen z.B. 0,1 Gew.-% bis 30 Gew.-%, vorzugsweise 0,5 bis 10 Gew.-%, insbesondere 1 bis 6 Gew.-% beträgt, bezogen auf das Gesamtgewicht der Zubereitungen. Advantageously, preparations according to the invention may contain substances which absorb UV radiation in the UVB range, the total amount of filter substances being e.g. 0.1 wt .-% to 30 wt .-%, preferably 0.5 to 10 wt .-%, in particular 1 to 6 wt .-%, based on the total weight of the preparations.
Die UVB-Filter können öllöslich oder wasserlöslich sein. Als öllösliche Substanzen sind z.B. zu nennen: The UVB filters may be oil-soluble or water-soluble. As oil-soluble substances are e.g. to call:
3- Benzylidencampher und dessen Derivate, z.B. 3-(4-Methylbenzyliden)campher, 3-benzylidene camphor and its derivatives, e.g. 3- (4-methylbenzylidene) camphor,
4- Aminobenzoesäure-Derivate, vorzugsweise 4-(Dimethylamino)-benzoesäure(2-ethyl- hexyl)ester, 4-(Dimethylamino)benzoesäureamylester; 4-aminobenzoic acid derivatives, preferably (2-ethylhexyl) 4- (dimethylamino) benzoate, 4- (dimethylamino) benzoic acid amyl ester;
Ester der Zimtsäure, vorzugsweise 4-Methoxyzimtsäure(2-ethylhexyl)ester, 4-Meth- oxyzimtsäureisopentylester; Ester der Salicylsäure, vorzugsweise Salicylsäure(2-ethylhexyl)ester, Salicylsäure(4- isopropylbenzyl)ester, Salicylsäurehomomenthylester; Esters of cinnamic acid, preferably 4-methoxycinnamic acid (2-ethylhexyl) ester, 4-methoxycinnamic acid isopentyl ester; Esters of salicylic acid, preferably 2-ethylhexyl salicylate, 4-isopropylbenzyl salicylate, homomenthyl salicylate;
Derivate des Benzophenons, vorzugsweise 2-Hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenon, 2- Hydroxy-4-methoxy-4'-methylbenzophenon, 2,2'-Dihydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenon; Ester der Benzalmalonsäure, vorzugsweise 4-Methoxybenzalmalonsäuredi(2-ethyl- hexyl)ester;  Derivatives of benzophenone, preferably 2-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone, 2-hydroxy-4-methoxy-4'-methylbenzophenone, 2,2'-dihydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone; Esters of benzalmalonic acid, preferably di (2-ethylhexyl) 4-methoxybenzalmalonate;
2,4,6-Trianilino-(p-carbo-2'-ethyl-1 '-hexyloxy)-1 ,3,5-triazin  2,4,6-Trianilino- (p-carbo-2'-ethyl-1'-hexyloxy) -1, 3,5-triazine
Als wasserlösliche Substanzen sind vorteilhaft: As water-soluble substances are advantageous:
2-Phenylbenzimidazol-5-sulfonsäure und deren Salze, z.B. Natrium-, Kalium- oder Tri- ethanolammonium-Salze,  2-phenylbenzimidazole-5-sulfonic acid and its salts, e.g. Sodium, potassium or triethanolammonium salts,
Sulfonsäure-Derivate von Benzophenonen, vorzugsweise 2-Hydroxy-4-methoxyben- zophenon-5-sulfonsäure und ihre Salze;  Sulfonic acid derivatives of benzophenones, preferably 2-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone-5-sulfonic acid and its salts;
Sulfonsäure-Derivate des 3-Benzylidencamphers, wie z.B. 4-(2-Oxo-3-bornyliden- methyl)benzolsulfonsäure, 2-Methyl-5-(2-oxo-3-bornylidenmethyl)sulfonsäure und ihre Salze.  Sulfonic acid derivatives of the 3-benzylidene camphor, e.g. 4- (2-oxo-3-bomylidene-methyl) benzenesulfonic acid, 2-methyl-5- (2-oxo-3-bomylidenemethyl) sulfonic acid and its salts.
Die Liste der genannten UVB-Filter, die erfindungsgemäß Verwendung finden können, soll selbstverständlich nicht limitierend sein. The list of said UVB filters which can be used according to the invention should of course not be limiting.
Es kann auch von Vorteil sein, in erfindungsgemäßen Zubereitungen UVA-Filter einzusetzen, die üblicherweise in kosmetischen und/oder dermatologischen Zubereitungen enthalten sind. Bei solchen Filtersubstanzen handelt es sich vorzugsweise um Derivate des Dibenzoylme- thans, insbesondere um 1 -(4'-tert.Butylphenyl)-3-(4'-methoxyphenyl)propan-1 ,3-dion und um 1-Phenyl-3-(4'-isopropylphenyl)propan-1 ,3-dion. Auch Zubereitungen, die diese Kombinationen enthalten, sind Gegenstand der Erfindung. Es können die gleichen Mengen an UVA- Filtersubstanzen verwendet werden, welche für UVB-Filtersubstanzen genannt wurden. It may also be advantageous to use UVA filters in formulations according to the invention which are customarily contained in cosmetic and / or dermatological preparations. Such filter substances are preferably derivatives of dibenzoylmethane, in particular 1 - (4'-tert-butylphenyl) -3- (4'-methoxyphenyl) propane-1,3-dione and 1-phenyl-3-one. (4'-isopropyl-phenyl) -propane-1,3-dione. Also preparations containing these combinations are the subject of the invention. The same quantities of UVA filter substances which have been mentioned for UVB filter substances can be used.
Kosmetische und/oder dermatologische Zubereitungen im Sinne der vorliegenden Erfindung können auch anorganische Pigmente enthalten, die üblicherweise in der Kosmetik zum Schutze der Haut vor UV-Strahlen verwendet werden. Dabei handelt es sich um Oxide des Titans, Zinks, Eisens, Zirkoniums, Siliciums, Mangans, Aluminiums, Chroms, Cers und Mischungen davon, sowie Abwandlungen, bei denen die Oxide die aktiven Agentien sind. Aber auch Ultramarinblau und Pearlglanzpigmente. Besonders bevorzugt handelt es sich um Pigmente auf der Basis von Titandioxid. Es können die für die vorstehenden Kombinationen genannten Mengen verwendet werden. Die erfindungsgemäßen kosmetischen und dermatologischen Zubereitungen können kosmetische Wirk-, Hilfs- und/oder Zusatzstoffe enthalten, wie sie üblicherweise in solchen Zubereitungen verwendet werden, z.B. Antioxidationsmittel, Konservierungsmittel, Bakterizide, Parfüme, Substanzen zum Verhindern des Schäumens, Farbstoffe, Pigmente, die färbende Wirkung haben, Verdickungsmittel, oberflächenaktive Substanzen, Emulgatoren, weichmachende, anfeuchtende und/oder feuchthaltende Substanzen, Fette, Öle, Wachse oder andere übliche Bestandteile einer kosmetischen oder dermatologischen Formulierung wie Alkohole, Polyole, Polymere, Schaumstabilisatoren, organische Lösungsmittel oder Silikonderivate. Cosmetic and / or dermatological preparations according to the present invention may also contain inorganic pigments which are commonly used in cosmetics to protect the skin from UV rays. These are oxides of titanium, zinc, iron, zirconium, silicon, manganese, aluminum, chromium, cerium and mixtures thereof, as well as modifications in which the oxides are the active agents. But also ultramarine blue and pearl gloss pigments. Particular preference is given to pigments based on titanium dioxide. The amounts mentioned for the above combinations may be used. The cosmetic and dermatological preparations according to the invention may contain cosmetic active substances, auxiliaries and / or additives such as are conventionally used in such preparations, for example antioxidants, preservatives, bactericides, perfumes, substances for preventing foaming, dyes, pigments, the coloring effect have, thickeners, surface-active substances, emulsifiers, softening, moistening and / or moisturizing substances, fats, oils, waxes or other conventional ingredients of a cosmetic or dermatological formulation such as alcohols, polyols, polymers, foam stabilizers, organic solvents or silicone derivatives.
Zur Herstellung der erfindungsgemäßen Emulsionen wird sowohl der W/Si-Emulgator als auch der der O/W-Emulgator zur jeweiligen Ölphase zugegeben. Die Ölphase wird bis auf 60 °C unter Rühren erhitzt, um etwaige UV Filter zu lösen. Danach wird die Ölphase wieder auf Raumtemperatur abgekühlt. Die Verdicker, die Pigmentphase und die Wasserphase werden nacheinander unter Rühren langsam zur Ölphase hinzugegeben und anschließend mit einem hochtouringen Mixer (z.B. einem Zauberstab) intensiv vermischt. To prepare the emulsions according to the invention, both the W / Si emulsifier and the O / W emulsifier are added to the respective oil phase. The oil phase is heated to 60 ° C with stirring to dissolve any UV filters. Thereafter, the oil phase is cooled back to room temperature. The thickeners, the pigment phase and the water phase are added slowly successively with stirring to the oil phase and then thoroughly mixed with a high-speed mixer (for example a magic wand).
Zur Bestimmung der Lagerstabilität werden alle Emulsionsproben in verschraubten 30 ml Gläsern bei unterschiedlichen Temperaturen gelagert,: bei Raumtemperatur (RT) (ca. 20 °C), bei -10 °C, +6 °C, +40 °C und bei +50 °C. To determine storage stability, all emulsion samples are stored in screw-retained 30 ml glasses at different temperatures: at room temperature (RT) (about 20 ° C), at -10 ° C, + 6 ° C, + 40 ° C and at +50 ° C.
Die Stabilität wurde nach 7 Tagen, 1 Monat und 3 Monaten visuell bewertet. The stability was assessed visually after 7 days, 1 month and 3 months.
Die W/Si-Emulsionen mit zusätzlichem OW Emulgator haben überraschenderwiese eine deutlich bessere Stabilität (keine Phasentrennung und/oder Ölabscheidung, keine visuell erkennbaren Inhomogenitäten der Pigmentverteilung) als die Emulsion ohne O/W Emulgator. Surprisingly, the W / Si emulsions with additional OW emulsifier have a significantly better stability (no phase separation and / or oil separation, no visually discernible inhomogeneities of the pigment distribution) than the emulsion without O / W emulsifier.
Figure imgf000017_0001
Figure imgf000017_0001
Die nachfolgenden Beispiele sollen die vorliegende Erfindung verdeutlichen. The following examples are intended to illustrate the present invention.
Beispielrezeptur 1 Gew.-% Bis-(Glyceryl/Lauryl) Glyceryl/Lauryl Dimethicon (Abil® EM 120) 3Example recipe 1% by weight Bis (glyceryl / lauryl) glyceryl / lauryl dimethicone (Abil® EM 120) 3
Dimethicon 10Dimethicone 10
Squalan 0,5Squalane 0.5
Dicaprylyl Ether 7Dicaprylyl ether 7
Dimethicon + Tnmethylsiloxysilicate 3,5Dimethicone + Tnmethylsiloxysilicate 3,5
Propylencarbonat 0,24Propylene carbonate 0.24
Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride 2Caprylic / Capric Triglycerides 2
Butylmethoxydibenzoylmethan 0,9Butylmethoxydibenzoylmethane 0.9
Octocrylen 3Octocrylene 3
Disteardimonium Hectorit 2Disteardimonium hectorite 2
Farbpigmente (Cl 77891 , Cl 77492, Cl 77491 , Cl 77499, Cl 9 77007) Color pigments (Cl 77891, Cl 77492, Cl 77491, Cl 77499, Cl 9 77007)
Natriumchlorid 2 Sodium chloride 2
Trisodium EDTA 1Trisodium EDTA 1
Propylenglycol 1 ,8Propylene glycol 1, 8
Glycerin 8,5Glycerol 8.5
Phenoxyethanol 0,4Phenoxyethanol 0.4
Parfüm 0,2Perfume 0.2
Wasser 100% ad 100 Water 100% ad 100
Beispielrezeptur 2 Gew.-% Example recipe 2% by weight
Bis-(Glyceryl/Lauryl) Glyceryl/Lauryl Dimethicon (Abil® EM 120) 3Bis (glyceryl / lauryl) glyceryl / lauryl dimethicone (Abil® EM 120) 3
Dimethicon 10Dimethicone 10
Squalan 0,5Squalane 0.5
Dicaprylyl Ether 7Dicaprylyl ether 7
Dimethicon + Tnmethylsiloxysilicate 3,5Dimethicone + Tnmethylsiloxysilicate 3,5
Propylencarbonat 0,24Propylene carbonate 0.24
Natriumstearoylglutamat 0,1Sodium stearoylglutamate 0.1
Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride 2Caprylic / Capric Triglycerides 2
Butylmethoxydibenzoylmethan 0,9Butylmethoxydibenzoylmethane 0.9
Octocrylen 3Octocrylene 3
Disteardimonium Hectorit 2Disteardimonium hectorite 2
Farbpigmente (Cl 77891 , Cl 77492, Cl 77491 , Cl 77499, Cl 9 77007) Color pigments (Cl 77891, Cl 77492, Cl 77491, Cl 77499, Cl 9 77007)
Natriumchlorid 2 Sodium chloride 2
Trisodium EDTA 1Trisodium EDTA 1
Propylenglycol 1 ,8Propylene glycol 1, 8
Glycerin 8,5Glycerol 8.5
Phenoxyethanol 0,4Phenoxyethanol 0.4
Parfüm 0,2Perfume 0.2
Wasser 100% ad 100 Water 100% ad 100
Beispielrezeptur 3 Gew.-% Example recipe 3% by weight
Bis-(Glyceryl/Lauryl) Glyceryl/Lauryl Dimethicon (Abil® EM 120) 3Bis (glyceryl / lauryl) glyceryl / lauryl dimethicone (Abil® EM 120) 3
Dimethicon 10Dimethicone 10
Squalan 0,5Squalane 0.5
Dicaprylyl Ether 7Dicaprylyl ether 7
Dimethicon + Tnmethylsiloxysilicate 3,5Dimethicone + Tnmethylsiloxysilicate 3,5
Propylencarbonat 0,24Propylene carbonate 0.24
PEG-40 Stearate 0,1PEG-40 Stearate 0.1
Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride 3Caprylic / Capric triglycerides 3
Butylmethoxydibenzoylmethan 0,9Butylmethoxydibenzoylmethane 0.9
Octocrylen 3Octocrylene 3
Disteardimonium Hectorit 2Disteardimonium hectorite 2
Farbpigmente (Cl 77891 , Cl 77492, Cl 77491 , Cl 77499, Cl 9 77007) Color pigments (Cl 77891, Cl 77492, Cl 77491, Cl 77499, Cl 9 77007)
Natriumchlorid 2 Sodium chloride 2
Trisodium EDTA 1Trisodium EDTA 1
Propylenglycol 1 ,8Propylene glycol 1, 8
Glycerin 8,5Glycerol 8.5
Phenoxyethanol 0,4Phenoxyethanol 0.4
Parfüm 0,2Perfume 0.2
Wasser 100% ad 100 Water 100% ad 100
Beispielrezeptur 4 Gew.-% Example recipe 4% by weight
Bis-(Glyceryl/Lauryl) Glyceryl/Lauryl Dimethicon (Abil® EM 120) 3Bis (glyceryl / lauryl) glyceryl / lauryl dimethicone (Abil® EM 120) 3
Dimethicon 10Dimethicone 10
Squalan 0,5Squalane 0.5
Dicaprylyl Ether 7Dicaprylyl ether 7
Dimethicon + Tnmethylsiloxysilicate 3,5Dimethicone + Tnmethylsiloxysilicate 3,5
Propylencarbonat 0,24Propylene carbonate 0.24
Natriumcetearylsulfat 0,1Sodium Cetearyl Sulfate 0.1
Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride 2Caprylic / Capric Triglycerides 2
Butylmethoxydibenzoylmethan 0,9Butylmethoxydibenzoylmethane 0.9
Octocrylen 3Octocrylene 3
Disteardimonium Hectorit 2Disteardimonium hectorite 2
Farbpigmente (Cl 77891 , Cl 77492, Cl 77491 , Cl 77499, Cl 9 77007) Color pigments (Cl 77891, Cl 77492, Cl 77491, Cl 77499, Cl 9 77007)
Natriumchlorid 2 Sodium chloride 2
Trisodium EDTA 1Trisodium EDTA 1
Propylenglycol 1 ,8Propylene glycol 1, 8
Glycerin 8,5Glycerol 8.5
Phenoxyethanol 0,4Phenoxyethanol 0.4
Parfüm 0,2Perfume 0.2
Wasser 100% ad 100 Water 100% ad 100
Beispielrezeptur 5 Gew.-% Example recipe 5% by weight
Bis-(Glyceryl/Lauryl) Glyceryl/Lauryl Dimethicon (Abil® EM 120) 3Bis (glyceryl / lauryl) glyceryl / lauryl dimethicone (Abil® EM 120) 3
Dimethicon 10Dimethicone 10
Squalan 0,5Squalane 0.5
Dicaprylyl Ether 7Dicaprylyl ether 7
Dimethicon + Tnmethylsiloxysilicate 3,5Dimethicone + Tnmethylsiloxysilicate 3,5
Propylencarbonat 0,24Propylene carbonate 0.24
Kaliumcetylphosphat 0,1Potassium cetyl phosphate 0.1
Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride 2Caprylic / Capric Triglycerides 2
Butylmethoxydibenzoylmethan 0,9Butylmethoxydibenzoylmethane 0.9
Octocrylen 3Octocrylene 3
Disteardimonium Hectorit 2Disteardimonium hectorite 2
Farbpigmente (Cl 77891 , Cl 77492, Cl 77491 , Cl 77499, Cl 9 77007) Color pigments (Cl 77891, Cl 77492, Cl 77491, Cl 77499, Cl 9 77007)
Natriumchlorid 2 Sodium chloride 2
Trisodium EDTA 1Trisodium EDTA 1
Propyleneglycol 1 ,8Propylene glycol 1, 8
Glycerin 8,5Glycerol 8.5
Phenoxyethanol 0,4Phenoxyethanol 0.4
Parfüm 0,2Perfume 0.2
Wasser 100% ad 100 Water 100% ad 100
Beispielrezeptur 6 Gew.-% Example recipe 6% by weight
Bis-(Glyceryl/Lauryl) Glyceryl/Lauryl Dimethicon (Abil® EM 120) 3Bis (glyceryl / lauryl) glyceryl / lauryl dimethicone (Abil® EM 120) 3
Dimethicon 12Dimethicone 12
Dimethicon / Dimethicon Crosspolymer 5Dimethicone / Dimethicone Crosspolymer 5
Dicaprylyl Ether 3Dicaprylyl ether 3
Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride 2Caprylic / Capric Triglycerides 2
Ethylhexylsalicylat 2Ethylhexyl salicylate 2
Propylencarbonat 0,3Propylene carbonate 0.3
Natriumstearoylglutamat 0,2Sodium stearoylglutamate 0.2
Niacinamid 0,1Niacinamide 0.1
Bis-Ethylhexyloxyphenol Methoxyphenyl Triazin 0,5Bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol Methoxyphenyl triazine 0.5
Diethylaminohydroxybenzoyl Hexylbenzoat 1Diethylaminohydroxybenzoyl hexylbenzoate 1
Disteardimonium Hectorit 2,5Disteardimonium hectorite 2.5
Farbpigmente (Cl 77891 , Cl 77492, Cl 77491 , Cl 77499, Cl 9 77007) Color pigments (Cl 77891, Cl 77492, Cl 77491, Cl 77499, Cl 9 77007)
Natriumchlorid 1 Sodium chloride 1
Trisodium EDTA 1Trisodium EDTA 1
Methylparaben 0,1Methyl paraben 0.1
Glycerin 5,0Glycerin 5.0
Methylpropandiol 2Methylpropanediol 2
Phenoxyethanol 0,4Phenoxyethanol 0.4
Parfüm 0,2Perfume 0.2
Wasser 100% ad 100 Water 100% ad 100
Beispielrezeptur 7 Gew.-% Example recipe 7% by weight
Bis-(Glyceryl/Lauryl) Glyceryl/Lauryl Dimethicon (Abil® EM 120) 3Bis (glyceryl / lauryl) glyceryl / lauryl dimethicone (Abil® EM 120) 3
Dimethicon 8Dimethicone 8
Ubichinon 0,1Ubiquinone 0.1
Dicaprylyl Ether 8Dicaprylyl ether 8
Lauryllysine 1Lauryllysine 1
Propylencarbonat 0,24Propylene carbonate 0.24
Natriumstearoylglutamat 0,3Sodium stearoylglutamate 0.3
Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride 3Caprylic / Capric triglycerides 3
Kreatin 0,2Creatine 0.2
Glycerylglucose 1Glyceryl glucose 1
Disteardimonium Hectorit 2Disteardimonium hectorite 2
Tocopherylacetat 0,2Tocopheryl acetate 0.2
Natriumeitrat 0,3Sodium citrate 0.3
Trisodium EDTA 0,2Trisodium EDTA 0.2
Propylenglycol 3Propylene glycol 3
Glycerin 5Glycerol 5
Phenoxyethanol 0,4Phenoxyethanol 0.4
Parfüm 0,2Perfume 0.2
Wasser 100% ad 100 Water 100% ad 100
Beispielrezeptur 8 Gew.-% Example recipe 8% by weight
Bis-(Glyceryl/Lauryl) Glyceryl/Lauryl Dimethicon (Abil® EM 120) 3Bis (glyceryl / lauryl) glyceryl / lauryl dimethicone (Abil® EM 120) 3
Dimethicon 10Dimethicone 10
Tocopherylacetat 0,2Tocopheryl acetate 0.2
Dicaprylyl Ether 7Dicaprylyl ether 7
Dimethicon + Trimethylsiloxysilicate 3,5Dimethicone + trimethylsiloxysilicate 3,5
Propylencarbonat 0,24Propylene carbonate 0.24
PEG-40 Stearat 0,2PEG-40 Stearate 0.2
Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride 2Caprylic / Capric Triglycerides 2
Bis-Ethylhexyloxyphenol Methoxyphenyl Triazin 0,5Bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol Methoxyphenyl triazine 0.5
Diethylaminohydroxybenzoyl Hexylbenzoat 1Diethylaminohydroxybenzoyl hexylbenzoate 1
Disteardimonium Hectorit 2Disteardimonium hectorite 2
Farbpigmente (Cl 77891 , Cl 77492, Cl 77491 , Cl 77499, Cl 9 77007) Color pigments (Cl 77891, Cl 77492, Cl 77491, Cl 77499, Cl 9 77007)
Natriumchlorid 1 ,5 Sodium chloride 1, 5
Trisodium EDTA 1Trisodium EDTA 1
Methylparaben 0,1Methyl paraben 0.1
Glycerin 5,0Glycerin 5.0
Phenoxyethanol 0,4Phenoxyethanol 0.4
Parfüm 0,2Perfume 0.2
Wasser 100% ad 100 Water 100% ad 100
Beispielrezeptur 9 Gew.-% Example recipe 9% by weight
Bis-(Glyceryl/Lauryl) Glyceryl/Lauryl Dimethicon (Abil® EM 120) 3Bis (glyceryl / lauryl) glyceryl / lauryl dimethicone (Abil® EM 120) 3
Dimethicon 15Dimethicone 15
C12-15 Alkylbenzoat 2C12-15 alkyl benzoate 2
Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride 1Caprylic / Capric Triglycerides 1
Panthenol 0,3Panthenol 0.3
Natriumcetearylsulfat 0,3Sodium Cetearyl Sulfate 0.3
Additive (z.B. Tapiocastarke, Distarkephosphat) 1Additives (e.g., tapioca brand, distarch phosphate) 1
Propylencarbonat 0,1Propylene carbonate 0.1
Disteardimonium Hectorit 0,9Disteardimonium hectorite 0.9
Trisodium EDTA 0,2Trisodium EDTA 0.2
Propylenglycol 2Propylene glycol 2
Glycerin 5Glycerol 5
Phenoxyethanol 0,3Phenoxyethanol 0.3
Parfüm 0,1Perfume 0.1
Wasser 100% ad 100 Water 100% ad 100

Claims

Patentansprüche claims
1. Wasser-in-Silikonöl-Emulsion enthaltend 1. Water-in-silicone oil emulsion containing
a) als W/Si- Emulgator Bis-(Glyceryl/Lauryl) Glyceryl/Lauryl Dimethicone und ge- wünschtenfalls weitere Emulgatoren  a) bis (glyceryl / lauryl) glyceryl / lauryl dimethicone as W / Si emulsifier and, if desired, further emulsifiers
b) einen oder mehrere hydrophile O/W-Emulgatoren.  b) one or more hydrophilic O / W emulsifiers.
2. Wasser-in-Silikonöl Emulsionen nach Anspruch 1 , dadurch gekennzeichnet, dass der oder die hydrophilen O/W Emulgatoren ausgewählt werden aus der Gruppe der Acylglutamate, Alkylsulfate und Alkylphosphate; bevorzugt die Alkalisalze der Acylglu- tamateT 2. Water-in-silicone oil emulsions according to claim 1, characterized in that the one or more hydrophilic O / W emulsifiers are selected from the group of acyl glutamates, alkyl sulfates and alkyl phosphates; preferably the alkali metal salts of acylglutamateT
3. Wasser-in-Silikonöl-Emulsionen nach Anspruch 1 oder 2, dadurch gekennzeichnet, dass sie 0,1 bis 10,0 Gew.-%, bevorzugt 0,2 bis 5,0 Gew.-%, besonders bevorzugt 0,5 bis 3,0 Gew.-%, bezogen auf das Gesamtgewicht der Zubereitung, an Bis- (Glyceryl/Lauryl) Glyceryl/Lauryl Dimethicone enthalten. 3. water-in-silicone oil emulsions according to claim 1 or 2, characterized in that it contains 0.1 to 10.0 wt .-%, preferably 0.2 to 5.0 wt .-%, particularly preferably 0.5 up to 3.0% by weight, based on the total weight of the preparation, of bis (glyceryl / lauryl) glyceryl / lauryl dimethicone.
4. Wasser-in-Silikonöl-Emulsionen nach einem der vorstehenden Ansprüche, dadurch gekennzeichnet, dass das oder die Acylglutamate durch die allgemeine Struktur 4. Water-in-silicone oil emulsions according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the or the acylglutamates by the general structure
O O
R C HN CH— C O" X RC HN CHCO " X
O CH2 CH2 C^O OH gekennzeichnet sind, wobei R aus der Gruppe der verzweigten und unverzweigten Al- kylgruppen mit 5 bis 25 Kohlenstoffatomen und unabhängig davon X aus der Gruppe Wasserstoff- und Alkalimetallion gewählt wird. O CH 2 CH 2 C ^ O OH are selected, wherein R is selected from the group of branched and unbranched alkyl groups having 5 to 25 carbon atoms and independently of X from the group of hydrogen and alkali metal ion.
5. Wasser-in-Silikonöl-Emulsionen nach einem der vorstehenden Ansprüche, dadurch gekennzeichnet, dass als Acylglutamat das Natriumstearoylglutamat gewählt wird. Wasser-in-Silikonöl-Emulsionen nach einem der vorstehenden Ansprüche, dadurch gekennzeichnet, dass sie 0,001 - 10 Gew.-%, bevorzugt 0,01 - 5 Gew.-%, besonders bevorzugt 0,1 - 1 ,0 Gew.-% einen oder mehrere hydrophile O/W-Emulgatoren insbesondere Natriumstearoylglutamat, enthalten, bezogen auf das Gesamtgewicht der Zubereitungen. 5. water-in-silicone oil emulsions according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the acylglutamate is the sodium stearoylglutamate is selected. Water-in-silicone oil emulsions according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that they contain from 0.001 to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.01 to 5% by weight, more preferably from 0.1 to 1.0% by weight. one or more hydrophilic O / W emulsifiers, in particular sodium stearoylglutamate, based on the total weight of the preparations.
PCT/EP2015/076127 2014-12-05 2015-11-10 Cosmetic and dermatological preparations in the form of water-in-silicone oil emulsions, containing bis-(glyceryl/lauryl) glyceryl/lauryl dimethicone, and one or more acyl glutamates WO2016087165A1 (en)

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