WO2016012513A1 - Émulsions comprenant au moins une charge et stabilisée par un polymère de silicone réticulé - Google Patents

Émulsions comprenant au moins une charge et stabilisée par un polymère de silicone réticulé Download PDF

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Publication number
WO2016012513A1
WO2016012513A1 PCT/EP2015/066793 EP2015066793W WO2016012513A1 WO 2016012513 A1 WO2016012513 A1 WO 2016012513A1 EP 2015066793 W EP2015066793 W EP 2015066793W WO 2016012513 A1 WO2016012513 A1 WO 2016012513A1
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weight
composition
silicone
composition according
group
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PCT/EP2015/066793
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English (en)
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Raluca Lorant
Mathieu CHABRILLANGEAS
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L'oreal
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Publication of WO2016012513A1 publication Critical patent/WO2016012513A1/fr

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    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/02—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by special physical form
    • A61K8/04—Dispersions; Emulsions
    • A61K8/06—Emulsions
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/81—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions involving only carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds
    • A61K8/8141—Compositions of homopolymers or copolymers of compounds having one or more unsaturated aliphatic radicals, each having only one carbon-to-carbon double bond, and at least one being terminated by only one carboxyl radical, or of salts, anhydrides, esters, amides, imides or nitriles thereof; Compositions of derivatives of such polymers
    • A61K8/8152—Homopolymers or copolymers of esters, e.g. (meth)acrylic acid esters; Compositions of derivatives of such polymers
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/84—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions otherwise than those involving only carbon-carbon unsaturated bonds
    • A61K8/89—Polysiloxanes
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/84—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions otherwise than those involving only carbon-carbon unsaturated bonds
    • A61K8/89—Polysiloxanes
    • A61K8/891—Polysiloxanes saturated, e.g. dimethicone, phenyl trimethicone, C24-C28 methicone or stearyl dimethicone
    • A61K8/894—Polysiloxanes saturated, e.g. dimethicone, phenyl trimethicone, C24-C28 methicone or stearyl dimethicone modified by a polyoxyalkylene group, e.g. cetyl dimethicone copolyol
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q17/00—Barrier preparations; Preparations brought into direct contact with the skin for affording protection against external influences, e.g. sunlight, X-rays or other harmful rays, corrosive materials, bacteria or insect stings
    • A61Q17/04—Topical preparations for affording protection against sunlight or other radiation; Topical sun tanning preparations
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q19/00—Preparations for care of the skin

Definitions

  • the invention relates to an emulsion-type composition, in particular a cosmetic composition intended to be applied to keratin materials, in particular the skin and the lips, the hair and the nails.
  • the invention relates to a cosmetic composition which is in the form of a water-in-oil (W/O) emulsion, comprising at least one filler and one silicone polymer crosslinked with at least one polyoxyalkylene chain and comprising at least one pendant polyoxyalkylene chain.
  • W/O water-in-oil
  • emulsions containing at least one crosslinked silicone polymer are advantageous for their properties in terms of slip on application and after penetration.
  • This slip agent is appreciated by consumers since it is associated with softness of the skin after application.
  • W/O emulsions were formulated in the presence of one silicone polymer crosslinked with at least one polyoxyalkylene chain (EP 0 545 002), in order to attenuate the greasy effect and provide a "fresh" sensation upon application.
  • Document CN102961267 also provides W/O emulsion type compositions comprising one silicone polymer crosslinked with at least one polyoxyalkylene chain and comprising at least one pendant polyoxyalkylene chain, said compositions reducing the greasy effect, and confer in addition a sun-proof effect.
  • the resulting compositions have the drawback of lacking comfort and of not providing sufficient care effects on the skin.
  • the nutritive effects on the skin, and the effects that are visible and felt do not last, in particular because the oily phase essentially comprises volatile oils which, by definition, do not remain on the skin and cannot therefore nourish the skin effectively in the long term.
  • fillers when it is desired to introduce fillers into compositions as described in said documents, it is often necessary to use a larger amount of emulsifying surfactant. Furthermore, the addition of fillers may reinforce the impression of lack of comfort of the composition on the skin, or may even give a coarse feel. However, the addition of fillers is particularly desired for improving for example the appearance and for giving a matting effect on the skin or for covering skin imperfections.
  • non-silicone oils in order to improve the comfort, the moisturizing performance and also the persistence of the feeling of moisturized skin.
  • these non-silicone oils reinforce the perception of grease and the oily residual finish on the skin after penetration.
  • document FR 2 909 555 describes compositions, in the form of a water-in-oil
  • W/O invert emulsion comprising a silicone elastomer and fillers.
  • these compositions have a medium penetration quality, which is accompanied by a slight sensation of a greasy effect and/or of an artificial film on the skin after application.
  • these emulsions exhibit a relative stability in the presence of organic oils or of sunscreens.
  • UV-screening agents in the composition causes, in addition, a tacky and shiny effect on the skin which is particularly unpleasant or even totally unacceptable in hot and humid climates.
  • W/O water-in-oil
  • the invention relates to a composition in the form of a water-in oil (W/O) emulsion comprising at least
  • said composition is a cosmetic composition.
  • said composition is a composition for topical application.
  • said composition is a cosmetic composition for topical application.
  • Another aspect of the invention relates to a cosmetic use of a composition in accordance with the invention, for caring for keratin materials, preferably the skin, the lips, the hair and the nails.
  • the invention also relates to a method for cosmetically treating keratin materials, comprising a topical application of a composition according to the present invention.
  • the inventors have developed emulsions based on a specific crosslinked silicone polymer and on one or more filler(s) which make it possible to obtain, after application, a feeling of softness, a good penetration quality, an absence of sensation of a residual oily or fatty effect, good stability and therefore good comfort immediately and over time.
  • the effects observed are obtained both with water-in-oil (W/O) emulsions.
  • W/O water-in-oil
  • the compositions according to the invention make it possible to increase the UV protection index. 1/ Composition
  • compositions according to the invention are intended for topical application to the skin or skin appendages. According to this particular embodiment, they contain a physiologically acceptable medium.
  • physiologically acceptable medium is intended to mean a medium compatible with the skin, the lips, the mucous membranes, the nails, the scalp and/or the hair.
  • a composition according to the invention must not contain compounds known to be toxic to human beings or animals.
  • the aqueous phase comprises water and optionally at least one organic solvent which is water-miscible at ambient temperature (25°C) and/or at least one hydrophilic adjuvant.
  • adjuvant is intended to mean an active agent or additive, known in the prior art to have a physical, chemical and/or biological property of interest in the context of skincare, dermatology, cosmetics and/or makeup.
  • water-miscible organic solvent mention may be made, in a non-limiting way, of in particular monoalcohols comprising from 2 to 8, preferably from 2 to 6 carbon atoms, such as ethanol, propanol, isopropanol, butanol, isobutanol, pentanol, hexanol, polyols having in particular from 2 to 20 carbon atoms, for instance glycerol, arabitol, adonitol, dulcitol, erythritol, pentylene glycol, propylene glycol, butylene glycol, isoprene glycol, hexylene glycol, diethylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, polyglycerols with 2 to 6 glycerolated units, such as diglycerol, sorbitol; sugars such as glucose, fructose, maltose, lactose, sucrose, saccharose, xylose or trehalose;
  • composition may also contain thickening hydrophilic polymers such as homopolymers and copolymers of AMPS (for instance Hostacerin AMPS sold by the company Clariant), celluloses or acrylic polymers (such as carbopols, etc).
  • hydrophilic polymers such as homopolymers and copolymers of AMPS (for instance Hostacerin AMPS sold by the company Clariant), celluloses or acrylic polymers (such as carbopols, etc).
  • the oily phase consists of at least one oil or of any other fatty substance and lipophilic constituent which may be present in the composition of the invention, including the crosslinked silicone polymer. Any cosmetically acceptable oil may be used.
  • oil is intended to mean a fatty substance that is liquid at ambient temperature (25°C).
  • oils that may be used in the composition of the invention, examples that may be mentioned include:
  • hydrocarbon-based oils of animal origin such as perhydrosqualene and squalane
  • hydrocarbon-based oils of plant origin such as liquid triglycerides of C 4 -C 10 fatty acids, for instance heptanoic or octanoic acid triglycerides, caprylic/capric acid triglycerides, for instance those sold by the company Stearineries Dubois or those available under the trade names Miglyol 810, Miglyol 812 and Miglyol 818 by the company Dynamit Nobel, or alternatively, for example, sunflower oil, corn oil, soya bean oil, marrow oil, grapeseed oil, sesame seed oil, hazelnut oil, apricot oil, macadamia oil, castor oil, avocado oil, jojoba oil and shea butter oil;
  • liquid triglycerides of C 4 -C 10 fatty acids for instance heptanoic or octanoic acid triglycerides
  • caprylic/capric acid triglycerides for instance those sold by the company Ste
  • esters and ethers especially of fatty acids, for instance the oils of formulae R1COOR2 and R1OR2 in which R 1 represents a C 8 to C 29 fatty acid residue and R2 represents a C 3 to C 30 branched or unbranched hydrocarbon-based chain, for instance purcellin oil, isononyl isononanoate, isopropyl myristate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, 2- octyldodecyl stearate, 2-octyldodecyl erucate or isostearyl isostearate; octanoates and decanoates of C 8 - C 30 fatty alcohols; esters of hydroxylated acid and of C 8 -C 30 fatty alcohol, for instance isostearyl lactate, octyl hydroxy stearate, octyldodecyl hydroxystearate, diisostearyl malate, triis
  • hydrocarbons of mineral or synthetic origin such as volatile or non-volatile liquid paraffins, and derivatives thereof, petroleum jelly, polydecenes, and hydrogenated polyisobutene such as Parleam oil;
  • silicone oils for instance volatile or non-volatile polymethylsiloxanes (PDMSs) containing a linear or cyclic silicone chain, which are liquid or pasty at ambient temperature, especially cyclopolydimethylsiloxanes (cyclomethicones) such as cyclohexasiloxane and cyclopentasiloxane; polydimethylsiloxanes (or dimethicones) comprising alkyl, alkoxy or phenyl groups, which are pendant or at the end of a silicone chain, these groups containing from 2 to 24 carbon atoms: phenylsilicones, for instance phenyl trimethicones, phenyl dimethicones, phenyltrimethylsiloxydiphenylsiloxanes, diphenyl dimethicones, diphenylmethyldiphenyltrisiloxanes, 2-phenylethyl trimethylsiloxysilicates and polymethylphenylsiloxa
  • - fatty alcohols containing from 8 to 26 carbon atoms for instance cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol and a mixture thereof (cetylstearyl alcohol);
  • hydrocarbon-based oil is intended to mean any oil mainly comprising carbon and hydrogen atoms, and optionally ester, ether, fluoro, carboxylic acid and/or alcohol groups.
  • composition of the invention may contain other fatty substances in the oily phase, such as C 8 to C 30 fatty acids, for instance stearic acid; silicone resins such as trifluoromethyl(Ci-C4 alkyl) dimethicone and trifluoropropyl dimethicone; silicone gums (dimethiconol), non-emulsifying silicone elastomers, for instance the products sold under the names KSG 6 and KSG 16 by the company Shin-Etsu, under the names Trefil, BY29 and EPSX by the company Dow Corning, or under the name Gransil by the company Grant Industries; waxes, for example mineral waxes, waxes of animal origin, for instance beeswax, waxes of plant origin, hydrogenated oils that are solid at 25°C, glycerides that are solid at 25°C, synthetic waxes and silicone waxes; and mixtures thereof.
  • the oily phase may contain one or more waxes chosen from those
  • the term "pasty compound” is intended to mean a compound that is water-immiscible and that undergoes a reversible solid/liquid change of state and that comprises in the solid state an anisotropic crystal organization, and comprises, at a temperature of 23°C, a liquid fraction and a solid fraction.
  • the oily phase may also comprise one or more lipophilic adjuvant(s), such as, for example, one or more oily thickeners.
  • organomodified clays which are clays treated with compounds chosen in particular from quaternary amines and tertiary amines.
  • Organomodified clays that may be mentioned include organomodified bentonites such as those which are commercially available under the name Bentone from the company Rheox, for instance those modified with distearyldimethylammonium chloride (Bentone 38 and Bentone 34), or the product modified with stearylbenzyldimethylammonium chloride (Bentone 27).
  • the oily-phase thickener may advantageously be chosen from C 8 -C 30 fatty acid esters of glycerol, and in particular C 8 -C30 fatty acid triesters of glycerol, such as glyceryl tristearate (tristearine), such as the mixture of acetylated glycol stearate and of glyceryl tristearate, sold under the name Unitwix by the company United Guardian.
  • C 8 -C 30 fatty acid esters of glycerol and in particular C 8 -C30 fatty acid triesters of glycerol, such as glyceryl tristearate (tristearine), such as the mixture of acetylated glycol stearate and of glyceryl tristearate, sold under the name Unitwix by the company United Guardian.
  • the oily-phase thickener may also be chosen from C 8 -C 30 fatty acid esters of dextrin, such as, especially, dextrin palmitate, especially those sold under the name Rheopearl by the company Chiba Flour Milling.
  • the thickener(s) may be present in an amount ranging, for example, from approximately 0.1% to 5% by weight, preferably approximately 0.1% to 3% by weight and preferably approximately 0.2% to 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the aqueous phase when the composition is in the form of -oil W/O emulsion, may represent approximately 30% to 95% by weight, preferably approximately 35% to 90% by weight and preferably approximately 40% to 85% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the water preferably represents at least approximately 30% of the weight, preferably at least approximately 40% by weight, preferably at least approximately 50% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • This amount may represent, for example, approximately 30% to 90% by weight, preferably approximately 40% to 80% by weight and preferably approximately 50% to 75% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the oily phase represents approximately 0.5% to 70% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably approximately 10% to 35% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • a crosslinked silicone polymer is in particular described in PCT international application WO 2010/080755.
  • the crosslinked silicone polymer in particular in the form of an organic silicone elastomer gel contains an organic silicone elastomer and a hydrophobic liquid carrier.
  • the organic silicone elastomer may represent approximately 2% to 95% by weight, relative to the total weight of the elastomer gel, while the hydrophobic liquid carrier may represent approximately 5% to 98% by weight, relative to the total weight of the elastomer gel.
  • Additional constituents in addition to the organic silicone elastomer and the hydrophobic liquid carrier, may be added to the organic silicone elastomer gel; in this case, the amounts of all the constituents used must correspond exactly to 100% by weight.
  • the silicone elastomer gel comprising: - 2% to 95% by weight, relative to the total weight of the silicone elastomer gel, of an organic silicone elastomer, obtained by reacting:
  • an organohydrogenosiloxane comprising siloxy units of average formula: ( R 1 3SiO 0.5 )v (R 2 2 SiO)x (R 2 HSiO)y
  • R 1 represents a hydrogen or R 2 , R 2 represents a monovalent hydrocarbon-based
  • R 3 is a monovalent unsaturated aliphatic hydrocarbon-based group containing from 2 to 12 carbon atoms
  • - c ranges from 0 to 50, d ranges from 0 to 100, e ranges from 0 to 100, with the condition that the ratio of (d+e)/(c+d+e) is greater than 0.5,
  • R 3 represents a monovalent unsaturated aliphatic hydrocarbon-based group containing from 2 to 12 carbon atoms
  • - c' represents a value greater than 4, d' and e representing a value which can range from 0 to 100,
  • R 4 represents a hydrogen atom, an acyl group, or a monovalent hydrocarbon-based group containing 1 to 8 carbon atoms,
  • organic silicone elastomer has from 2% to 25% of ethylene oxide units ((C 2 CH 4 ) c+c' )
  • the silicone polymer crosslinked with at least one polyoxyalkylene chain and comprising at least one pendant polyoxyalkylene chain makes it possible to confer, on the composition, slip properties on application and after penetration, in particular while reducing the greasy effect sensation.
  • the silicone polymer crosslinked with at least one polyoxyalkylene chain and comprising at least one pendant polyoxyalkylene chain is a silicone polymer crosslinked with a polyoxypropylene chain, preferably having from 4 to 50 and better still from 10 to 30 propylene oxide units, and comprising at least one pendant polyoxyethylene chain, preferably having from 4 to 20 ethylene oxide units.
  • the silicone polymer crosslinked with at least one polyoxyalkylene chain and comprising at least one pendant polyoxyalkylene chain represents, in terms of active material content, approximately 0.01% to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably approximately 0.15% to 7% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the silicone polymer crosslinked with at least one polyoxyalkylene chain and comprising at least one pendant polyoxyalkylene chain represents approximately 0.18% to 5.4% by weight, preferably approximately 0.36% to 3.6% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the content of silicone polymer crosslinked with at least one polyoxyalkylene chain and comprising at least one pendant polyoxyalkylene chain represents an active material content.
  • the active material is first of all mixed with a hydrophobic liquid carrier so as to obtain a silicone elastomer gel.
  • the silicone elastomer gel can then be mixed with a solvent.
  • said solvent is chosen from water and a hydrophilic solvent.
  • the silicone elastomer gel is then mixed with a solvent in a ratio of 100 parts by weight of solvent for 1 part by weight of the elastomer gel, and up to a ratio of 600 parts by weight of solvent for 1 part by weight of the elastomer gel, respectively, in order to obtain a crosslinked silicone elastomer paste.
  • the compound A is a branched or linear organohydrosiloxane of average formula: (R 1 3 SiO 0.5 )v (R 2 2 SiO) x (R 2 HSiO)y in which:
  • R 1 represents a hydrogen or R 2 ,
  • R 2 represents a monovalent hydrocarbon-based group
  • R 2 may be a substituted or unsubstituted, aliphatic or aromatic hydrocarbon- based radical.
  • alkyl groups such as methyl, ethyl, propyl, pentyl, octyl, undecyl and octadecyl groups; and also cycloalkyl groups such as the cyclohexyl group.
  • halogenated alkyl groups such as chloromethyl, 3-chloropropyl and 3,3,3-trifluoropropyl.
  • hydrocarbon-based aromatic group By way of example of a hydrocarbon-based aromatic group, mention may be made of phenyl, tolyl, xylyl, benzyl, styryl and 2-phenylethyl groups.
  • the organohydrosiloxane may comprise an additional siloxy unit, in particular of average formula:
  • R 1 represents a hydrogen atom or R 2 ,
  • R 2 represents a monovalent hydrocarbon-based group
  • the organohydrosiloxane is chosen from the following groups: dimethyl, methylhydropolysiloxane of average formula (CH 3 )3SiO[(CH 3 )2SiO]xt(CH 3 )HSiO]ySi(CH 3 )3 in which x ⁇ 0, preferably x ranges from 1 to 500, preferably x ranges from 1 to 200, and y ⁇ 2, preferably y ranges from 2 to 200, preferably y ranges from 2 to 100.
  • the compound B is a polyoxyalkylene of average formula:
  • - R 3 is a monovalent unsaturated aliphatic hydrocarbon-based group containing from 2 to 12 carbon atoms, - c ranges from 0 to 50, preferably from 0 to 10, preferably less than 2,
  • - d ranges from 0 to 100, preferably from 1 to 100, preferably from 5 to 50,
  • - e ranges from 0 to 100, preferably from 0 to 50, preferably from 0 to 30, with the condition that the ratio of (d+e)/(c+d+e) is greater than 0.5, preferably greater than 0.8, preferably greater than 0.95.
  • the compound B is preferably a polyoxyalkylene with, at each chain end (i.e. alpha and omega positions), an unsaturated aliphatic hydrogenated group comprising from 2 to 12 carbon atoms.
  • the polyoxyalkylene may result from the polymerization of ethylene oxide, of propylene oxide, of butylene oxide, of 1,2-epoxyhexane, of 1,2-epoxyoctane, or of cyclic epoxides such as cyclohexene oxide or exo-2,3-epoxynorbornane.
  • the polyoxyalkylene group may comprise oxyethylene units (C 2 H 4 O), oxypropylene units (C 3 H 6 O), oxybutylene units (C 4 H 8 O), or mixtures thereof.
  • the polyoxyalkylene group may comprise a mole majority of oxypropylene and oxybutylene units.
  • the unsaturated aliphatic hydrocarbon-based group may be an alkenyl or alkynyl group.
  • alkynyl groups having the following structures: HC ⁇ C-, HC ⁇ CCH 2 -, HC ⁇ CCH(CH 3 ) - , HC ⁇ CC(CH 3 ) 2 - , HC ⁇ CC(CH3) 2 CH 2 - .
  • the compound C comprises any catalyst commonly used for hydrosilylation reactions.
  • a catalyst based on a metal of the platinum group is used.
  • metal of the platinum group is intended to mean ruthenium, rhodium, palladium, osmium, iridium and platinum, and complexes thereof.
  • Catalysts based on a metal of the platinum group which can be used to prepare the silicone elastomer according to the invention are the platinum complexes prepared as described by Willing, U. S. Pat. No. 3,419,593, and Brown et al, U. S. Pat. No. 5,175,325, incorporated by way of reference.
  • Catalysts based on a metal of the platinum group which can be used mention may be made of those in Lee et al., U. S. Pat. No. 3,989,668; Chang et al., U. S. Pat. No. 5,036,117; Ashby, U. S. Pat. No. 3,159,601; Lamoreaux, U. S. Pat. No.
  • the catalyst based on a metal of the platinum group may be a metal of the platinum group, said metal being deposited on a carrier such as silica gel or powdered carbon, or a compound or complex of said metal.
  • a carrier such as silica gel or powdered carbon
  • Mention may be made, by way of examples, of: chloroplatinic acid, either in its hexahydrate form or in its anhydrous form, a catalyst containing platinum obtained by means of a method reacting chloroplatinic acid with an unsaturated aliphatic organosilicone, such as divinyltetramethyldisiloxane, or the alkene-platinum-silyl complexes as described in U.S. Patent Application No.
  • the amount of catalyst required depends on the catalyst used.
  • the catalyst must be present in sufficient amount to provide at least 2 parts per million (ppm), preferably from 4 to 200 ppm, of platinum relative to the weight of total solids of the silicone elastomer gel (all the non-solvent compounds).
  • ppm parts per million
  • the catalyst is present in sufficient amount to provide 4 to 150 ppm by weight of platinum.
  • the silicone elastomer comprises non-crosslinked pendant polyoxyalkylene groups. These groups are formed on the silicone elastomer via a hydrosilylation reaction by addition of the second polyoxyalkylene compound D) of average formula:
  • R 3 represents a monovalent unsaturated aliphatic hydrocarbon-based group containing from 2 to 12 carbon atoms
  • - c' represents a value greater than 4
  • d 1 and e represent a value which can range from 0 to 100
  • R 4 represents a hydrogen atom, an acyl group, or a monovalent hydrocarbon- based group containing 1 to 8 carbon atoms.
  • the unsaturated aliphatic hydrogenated group in D may be an alkyl or alkenyl group.
  • alkynyl groups having the following structures: HC ⁇ C-, HO ⁇ CCH 2 -, HO ⁇ CCH(CH 3 ) - , HC ⁇ CC(CH 3 ) 2 - , HC ⁇ CC(CH3) 2 CH 2 - .
  • polyoxyalkylenes that may be used as compound D
  • H 2 C CHCH 2 O(C 2 H 4 O) c' H
  • H 2 C CHCH 2 O(C 2 H 4 O) c' CH 3
  • H 2 C CHCH 2 O(C 2 H 4 O) c' C(O)CH 3
  • H 2 C CHCH 2 O(C 2 H 4 O) c' (C 3 H 6 O) d' rH
  • H 2 C CHCH 2 O(C 2 H 4 O) c' (C 3 H 6 O) d 'CH 3
  • H 2 C C(CH 3 )CH 2 O(C 2 H 4 O) c' (O)CH 3
  • H 2 C C(CH 3 )CH 2 O(C 2 H4O) c'(O)CH 3
  • H 2 C CHCH 2 O(C 2 H 4 O) c' H
  • the polyether may also be chosen from those described in US 6 987 157, incorporated by way of reference.
  • the compound D may be added to the silicone elastomer either during its formation (i.e. simultaneous reaction of the compounds A), B), C) and D)), or in a first reaction (for example by reacting a part of the SiH groups of the compound A) with C) and D)), subsequently followed by reaction with B), or subsequently added to the formed silicone elastomer having SiH groups (for example, unreacted SiH units present on the silicone elastomer).
  • the amounts of compounds A, B and D used in the hydrosilylation reaction can vary, as long as the mole amount of the total unsaturated aliphatic groups present in the reaction of the compounds B) and D) is such that the mole ratio of the SiH units of the compound A) to the aliphatic unsaturated groups of the compounds B) and D) ranges from 10/1 to 1/10. However, the mole ratio of the aliphatic unsaturated groups of the compounds B) and D) to the SiH units of the compound A) is greater than 1 so as to have complete consumption of the SiH groups.
  • the amounts and structures of B) and D) used may also vary. However, the amounts used and the structures of B) and D) are such that the organic silicone elastomer has a content of ethylene oxide units ranging from 2% to 25% by weight, preferably from 3% to 20% by weight, preferably from 4% to 18% by weight.
  • the content of ethylene oxide unite means the average amount of ethylene oxide ( ⁇ ", i.e. CH 2 CH 2 0-) units present in the structure of the organic silicone elastomer.
  • the organic silicone elastomer is crosslinked with a polyoxypropylene chain and the organic silicone elastomer also comprises pendant polyoxyethylene chains.
  • the compound B is a polyoxypropylene (having in particular from 4 to 50, preferably 10 to 30 propylene oxide units) having an allyl group at its two ends.
  • the compound B has the general formula R 3 0-[(C 3 H 6 O) d' ]-R 3 , with R 3 as defined above, and d' greater than 0, preferably d' ranges from 4 to 50, preferably from 10 to 30.
  • the compound D is a polyoxyethylene (having in particular from 4 to 20 ethylene oxide units) having an allyl group at one end.
  • a sufficient amount of compound B is used to obtain a silicone elastomer with a content of propylene oxide units ranging from 5% to 50% by weight.
  • the compound B has the general formula R 3 0-[(C 2 H 4 O)c']-R 4 with R 3 and R 4 as defined above, and c' greater than 4, preferably c' ranges from 4 to 50, preferably from 10 to 30.
  • Sufficient amounts of compound D are used to obtain a silicone elastomer with an ethylene oxide content ranging from 2% to 25% by weight.
  • the order of addition of the compounds A), B), C) and D) can vary.
  • the reaction for the synthesis of the silicone elastomer is carried out in 2 steps. Firstly, the compounds A), C) and D) react so as to form a polyoxyethylene organohydrosiloxane copolymer, then the polyoxyethylene organohydrosiloxane copolymer reacts with the compound B) and additional amounts of C).
  • the organic silicone elastomers are in a liquid carrier.
  • the liquid carrier is the solvent used for the hydrosilylation reaction so as to form the organic silicone elastomer.
  • liquid carriers By way of examples of liquid carriers, mention may be made of organic liquids (oils and solvents), silicones and mixtures thereof.
  • the liquid carrier is an organic liquid.
  • the organic liquids include oils and solvents.
  • the organic liquids are, for example, aromatic hydrocarbons, aliphatic hydrocarbons, alcohols having more than 6 carbon atoms, aldehydes, ketones, amines, esters, ethers, glycols, glycol ethers, alkyl halides and aromatic halides.
  • the hydrocarbons may be, for example: isododecane, isohexadecane, isoparaffins such as Isopar L (C 11 -C13) or Isopar H (C11 -C12), or hydrogenated polydecene.
  • the ethers and esters may be, for example: isodecyl neopentanoate, neopentylglycol heptanoate, glycol distearate, dicaprylyl carbonate, diethylhexyl carbonate, propylene glycol n-butyl ether, ethyl 3-ethoxypropionate, propylene glycol methyl ether acetate, tridecyl neopentanoate, propylene glycol methyl ether acetate (PGMEA), propylene glycol methyl ether (PGME), octyldodecyl neopentanoate, diisobutyl adipate, diisopropyl adipate, propylene glycol dicaprylate / dicaprate, and octyl palmitate.
  • Organic fluid carriers may be fatty substances, oils, fatty acids and fatty alcohols.
  • the liquid carrier may also be an organopolysiloxane of low viscosity or a volatile methylsiloxane or a volatile ethylsiloxane or a volatile methylethylsiloxane having a viscosity at 25°C ranging from 1 to 1000 mm 2 /dry, such as hexamethylcyclotrisiloxane, octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane, dodecamethylcyclohexasiloxane, octamethyltrisiloxane, decamethyltetrasiloxane, dodecamethylpentasiloxane, tetradecamethylhexasiloxane, hexadecamethylheptasiloxane, heptamemyI-3- ⁇ (trimethylsilyl)oxy) ⁇ trisiloxane, hexamethyl-3,3- bis ⁇ (
  • the liquid carrier may be a (C 6 -C 20 ) alkyl methicone.
  • (C 6 -C 20 ) alkyl methicone mention may be made of caprylyl methicone, cetearyl methicone, ethyl methicone, hexyl methicone, lauryl methicone, myristyl methicone and stearyl methicone, preferably caprylyl methicone.
  • the content of organic silicone elastomer and of liquid carrier is such that the silicone elastomer gel comprises from 2% to 95% by weight, preferably from 5% to 95% by weight, preferably from 10% to 90% by weight of organic silicone elastomer, and from 5% to 98% by weight, preferably from 95% to 5% by weight, preferably from 90% to 10% by weight of liquid carrier, such that the sum of the contents of silicone elastomer and of liquid carrier, and of any other compound, is equal to 100%.
  • an active material content of silicone polymer crosslinked with at least one polyoxyalkylene chain and comprising at least one pendant polyoxyalkylene chain of approximately 0.18% to 5.4% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition is obtained by using approximately 1% to 30% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, of a crosslinked silicone elastomer paste as defined above.
  • a content of silicone polymer crosslinked with at least one polyoxyalkylene chain and comprising at least one pendant polyoxyalkylene chain of approximately 0.36% to 3.6% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition is obtained by using approximately 2% to 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, of a crosslinked silicone elastomer paste as defined above.
  • the silicone polymer crosslinked with at least one polyoxyalkylene chain and comprising at least one pendant polyoxyalkylene chain is a polyoxyethylenated dimethicone polymer (in particular with 12 ethylene oxide units) crosslinked with bis-allyl polypropylene glycol (in particular 20 ethylene oxide units), in particular used in the form of a gel carried in caprylyl methicone.
  • a polyoxyethylenated dimethicone polymer in particular with 12 ethylene oxide units
  • bis-allyl polypropylene glycol in particular 20 ethylene oxide units
  • a gel carried in caprylyl methicone such an elastomer gel is in particular sold under the name EL-7040 Hydro elastomer blend by the company Dow Corning, and it has the INCI name [Caprylyl Methicone (and) PEG- 12 Dimethicone/PPG-20 Crosspolymer].
  • the composition according to the invention comprises at least one filler.
  • the term “at least” one filler is understood to mean that the composition comprises 1 or more filler(s).
  • the term “more fillers” is intended to mean at least 2, at least 3, at least 4 types of fillers of different natures.
  • fillers should be understood as meaning colourless or white, mineral or synthetic particles of any shape, which are insoluble and dispersed in the medium of the composition irrespective of the temperature at which the composition is manufactured.
  • the filler(s) represent(s) approximately 0.05% to 30% by weight, preferably approximately 0.1% to 20% by weight, preferably approximately 0.2% to 10% by weight and preferably approximately 0.5% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the composition is a water-in-oil (W/O) emulsion, for which the filler(s) advantageously represent(s) a value of less than 4% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • W/O water-in-oil
  • the composition is a water-in-oil (W/O) emulsion, for which the fillers) represent(s) less than 4% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, thereby encompassing an W/O emulsion for which the filler(s) represents) approximately 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • W/O water-in-oil
  • the fillers used in the compositions according to the present invention may be in lamellar (or platelet), spherical (or globular) form, in the form of fibres or in any other intermediate form between these defined forms.
  • the term "spherical particles” is intended to mean particles in the shape or substantially in the shape of a sphere, which are insoluble in the medium of the composition according to the invention, even at the melting point of the medium (approximately 100°C).
  • lamellar particles is intended here to mean particles of parallelepipedal shape (rectangular or square surface), discoid shape (circular surface) or ellipsoid shape (oval surface), characterized by three dimensions: a length, a width and a height, which particles are insoluble in the medium of the composition according to the invention, even at the melting point of the medium (approximately 100°C).
  • the mineral and/or organic matting fillers are preferably chosen from scattering fillers.
  • fillers is intended to mean solid particles which are divided, i.e. in powder form. These fillers generally have a volume-median diameter of less than 15 ⁇ m.
  • the term “scattering filler” denotes a spherical or non-spherical, porous or non-porous particle with a refractive index of less than or equal to 2, in particular less than or equal to 1.8 and preferably ranging from 1.3 to 1.6.
  • the refractive index of the particles can be evaluated using the "contrast erasure” method. By choosing two totally miscible solvents with relatively distant refractive indices (ethanol: 1.36 and phenylethyl alcohol: 1.529), it is possible to produce mixtures having intermediate refractive indices.
  • the particles in question are suspended in these various solvent mixtures and the transparency of these solutions is then evaluated using a Hach 21 OOP turbidimeter, sold by the company Hach.
  • the refractive index of the particle is equal to that of the solvent mixture for which the least turbid solution is obtained, i.e. having the least cloudiness and which corresponds to the minimum difference in refractive index between the particles and the solvent mixture.
  • the “scattering fillers” according to the invention generally have a volume- median diameter of less than 15 ⁇ m.
  • the "scattering fillers" are spherical.
  • the "scattering fillers" are porous.
  • the specific surface area of the particles which may be related to the porosity, is greater than 10 m 2 /g and preferably greater than 50 m 2 /g.
  • the specific surface area per unit mass may be determined by the nitrogen absorption method, known as the BET (Brunauer-Emmett-Teller) method, described in The Journal of the American Chemical Society, vol. 60, page 309, February 1938, which corresponds to International Standard ISO 5794/1.
  • the BET specific surface area corresponds to the total specific surface area of the particles under consideration.
  • the “scattering fillers” are matting or termed "soft-focus”.
  • soft-focus or matting filler is intended to mean a filler which gives the complexion greater transparency and a hazy effect.
  • the matting capacity of the compositions containing them can be characterized by means of the following protocol.
  • the test composition is spread, in a proportion of 2 mg/cm 2 , onto a contrast card (Pruf badge type 24/5 -250 cm 2 sold by the company Erichsen) using a mechanical film spreader.
  • the composition is then dried overnight at a temperature of 37°C prior to measuring its reflection using a gonioreflectometer sold by the company Micromodule.
  • the intensity reflected in a specular manner at 30° (R) and in a scattered manner at 90° (D) are successively measured.
  • the result obtained is the ratio R between the specular reflection and the scattered reflection.
  • the value of R is proportionately smaller the greater the matting effect provided by the filler.
  • a value of R of less than or equal to 2 generally indicates a matting effect.
  • the matting fillers used by the invention are those which preferably, at a content of 5% in a cosmetic composition, give a value R of less than 3.5 and preferably less than 1.
  • the filler(s) is (are) chosen from a group comprising porous silica microparticles, polytetrafluoroethylene powders, silicone resin powders, hollow hemispherical silicone particles, concave silicone particles, acrylic copolymer powders, wax powders, polyethylene powders, crosslinked elastomeric organopolysiloxane powders coated with silicone resin, polyamide powders, clays, and mixtures thereof.
  • these matting fillers may be chosen, for example, from silicas, clays and silicate derivatives:
  • silica microparticles for instance Silica beads SB 150 and Silica beads SB700 from Miyoshi, with an average size of 5 ⁇ m;
  • the Sunspheres Series-H from Asahi Glass for instance Sunsphere H33, Sunsphere H51, and Sunsphere H53 with a respective size of 3.5 and 5 ⁇ m;
  • Clariant with an average size of 8 ⁇ m
  • silicone resin powders for instance the silicone resin Tospearl 145 A from GE Silicone, with an average size of 4.5 ⁇ m;
  • NLK 500, NLK 506 and NLK 510 from Takemoto Oil and Fat
  • - wax powders for instance the paraffin wax particles MicroEase 114S from MicroPowders, with an average size of 7 ⁇ m
  • polyethylene powders in particular comprising at least one ethylene/acrylic acid copolymer, and in particular consisting of ethylene/acrylic acid copolymers, for instance the Flobeads EA 209 particles from Sumitomo (with an average size of 10 ⁇ m);
  • Such elastomer powders are available under the names KSP-100, KSP-101, KSP-102, KSP-103, KSP-104 and KSP-105 , sold by the company Shin-Etsu;
  • nylon polyamide
  • clays of the smectite family such as laponite, of the kaolinite family, such as kaolinite, dickite, nacrite, optionally modified clays of the halloysite, dombassite, antigorite, berthierine, pyrophyllite, montmorillonite, beidellite, vermiculite, talc, stevensite, hectorite, saponite, chlorite, sepiolite and illite family.
  • the smectite family such as laponite
  • the kaolinite family such as kaolinite, dickite, nacrite
  • Clays are products that are already well known per se, which are described, for example, in the publication Mineralogie des argiles [Mineralogy of Clays], S. Caillere, S. Henin, M. Rautureau, 2nd Edition 1982, Masson, the teaching of which is included herein by way of reference.
  • Natural clay is a sedimentary rock composed to a large extent of specific minerals, silicates generally of aluminium. Kaolin is thus a natural clay.
  • the clays may also be synthetic.
  • Sumecton mentioned below is a synthetic saponite.
  • the clays may also be chemically modified by various compounds, such as acrylic acids, polysaccharides (for example carboxymethylcellulose) or organic cations.
  • the clay used is chosen from kaolinite, montmorillonites, saponites, laponites, hectorites and illites. Use is even more particularly made of mixtures of clays, and natural clays.
  • clays By way of natural clay, mention may be made of green clays, in particular rich in illite; clays rich in montmorillonite, known as fuller's earth, or such as bentonite or else white clays rich in kaolinite.
  • montmorillonite known as fuller's earth
  • bentonite or else white clays rich in kaolinite.
  • bentonites mention may in particular be made of those sold under the names Bentone 38 VCG, Bentone Gel CAO V, Bentone 27 V and Bentone Gel MIO V by the company Elementis.
  • saponite which belongs to the montmorillonite family
  • synthetic saponite in particular the product sold by the company Kunimine under the name Sumecton.
  • silica derivatives not present in the form of a dispersion of colloidal particles are preferred.
  • the silica derivatives which may be present in the compositions of the invention are in the form of a dispersion of particles of which the number-average diameter is greater than or equal to 1 ⁇ m.
  • the silicon oxide derivatives of which the surface has been chemically modified, so as to replace at least some of the silicon atoms with aluminium atoms forming at most one monomolecular layer of aluminium, are excluded from the definition of the silica derivatives of the invention.
  • silica powders for instance the porous silica microspheres sold under the name Silica Beads SB- 700 sold by the company Miyoshi; the products Sunsphere H51, Sunsphere H33 and Sunsphere H53 sold by the company Asahi Glass; the polydimethylsiloxane-coated amorphous silica microspheres sold under the name SA Sunsphere H-33 and SA Sunsphere H-53 sold by the company Asahi Glass; silica microbeads such as those sold under the name SB 150 by the company Myoshi .
  • silicate derivatives mention may in particular be made of concave particles based on silicate/silicone copolymers. In the remainder of the description, these particles are referred to as "concave silicone particles”.
  • the concave silicone particles present in the composition according to the invention are in particular particles of hollow sphere portions consisting of a silicone material and more specifically of a silicate/silicone copolymer. Said particles have an average diameter of less than or equal to 10 ⁇ m, in particular ranging from 0.1 ⁇ m to 8 ⁇ m, preferentially from 0.2 to 7 ⁇ m, more preferentially ranging from 0.5 to 6 ⁇ m and even more preferably ranging from 0.5 to 4 ⁇ m.
  • average diameter is intended to mean the largest dimension of the particle.
  • the hollow sphere portions used in the composition according to the invention may have the form of truncated hollow spheres, having only one orifice communicating with their central cavity, and having a horseshoe-shaped or bow-shaped cross section.
  • the organosilicone material is a crosslinked polysiloxane of three-dimensional structure; it preferably comprises, or even consists of, units of formula SiO 2 . and of formula R 1 SiO 1 . 5 , in which R 1 denotes an organic group bearing a carbon atom directly linked to the silicon atom.
  • the organic group may be a reactive organic group or an unreactive organic group, and preferably an unreactive organic group.
  • the unreactive organic group may be a C 1 -C 4 alkyl group, especially a methyl, ethyl, propyl or butyl group, or a phenyl group, and preferably a methyl group.
  • the reactive organic group may be an epoxy group, a (meth)acryloxy group, an alkenyl group, a mercaptoalkyl, aminoalkyl or haloalkyl group, a glyceroxy group, a ureido group or a cyano group.
  • the reactive organic group may be an epoxy group, a (meth)acryloxy group, an alkenyl group or a mercaptoalkyl or aminoalkyl group.
  • the reactive organic group generally comprises from 2 to 6 carbon atoms and in particular from 2 to 4 carbon atoms.
  • fillers in the shape of "bowl"-shaped hollow spheres are used. These may be obtained as described in application JP-2003 128 788.
  • These particles have the CTFA name: methylsilanol/silicate crosspolymer.
  • the concave silicone particles have an average diameter of less than or equal to 5 ⁇ m, especially ranging from 0.1 ⁇ m to 5 ⁇ m, preferentially ranging from 0.2 to 5 ⁇ m, more preferentially ranging from 0.5 to 4 ⁇ m and even more preferably ranging from 0.5 to 3 ⁇ m.
  • silicate derivatives mention may also be made of ring-shaped particles based on silicate/silicone copolymers. In the remainder of the description, these particles are referred to as "ring-shaped silicone particles”.
  • the ring-shaped silicone particles are preferably chosen from those described and synthesized in application US-A-2006/0089478. They have an average external diameter of from 0.05 to 15 ⁇ m and an average internal diameter of from 0.01 to 10 ⁇ m; the difference between the average external diameter and the average internal diameter being from 0.04 to 5 um.
  • the silicone particles have a polysiloxane network comprising siloxane units having the following formulae: S1O 4/2 (1) ; Si(OH) 3/2 (2) ; R 1 SiO 3/2 (3) ; R 2 SiO 3/2 (4) ; R 3 Si(OH)O 2/2 (5) ; and R 4 Si(OH)O 2/2 (6),
  • R 1 and R 3 denote unreactive hydrocarbon-based groups, in particular R 1 and R 3 denote alkyl, cycloalkyl, aryl, alkylaryl or aralkyl groups, preferably C1-C3 alkyl groups, in particular methyl, ethyl or propyl, and preferentially a methyl group; and
  • R 2 and R 4 each denote a hydrocarbon-based group chosen from acryloxy, methacryloxy, vinyl and mercapto groups;
  • Acryloxy groups that may be mentioned include a 2-acryloxyethyl group and a 3-acryloxypropyl group.
  • (Meth)acryloxy groups that may be mentioned include a 2- methacryloxypropyl group and a 3-methacryloxypropyl group.
  • Vinyl groups that may be mentioned include a vinyl group, an allyl, an isopropenyl and a 2-methylallyl.
  • Groups comprising a mercapto that may be mentioned include a mercaptopropyl group and a mercaptoethyl group.
  • Vinyl groups that may be mentioned include vinyl, allyl, isopropenyl groups and 2- methylallyl groups.
  • composition according to the invention comprises one or more filler(s) chosen from the compounds represented in Table 1 below.
  • the filler(s) is (are) chosen from a group comprising the compounds having the INCI name: boron nitride, cellulose, bismuth oxychloride, silica, methylsilanol/silicate crosspolymer, talc, polymethyl methacrylate crosspolymer, aluminium starch octenylsuccinate, sodium carboxymethyl starch, nylon-66, nylon- 12, silica silylate, styrene/acrylate copolymer, polymethyl methacrylate, methyl methacrylate crosspolymer, and mixtures thereof.
  • the composition also comprises at UV-screening agent.
  • at UV-screening agent As will be illustrated in the examples below, the presence of a silicone polymer crosslinked with at least one polyoxyalkylene chain and comprising at least one pendant polyoxyalkylene chain, and of one or more filler(s), stabilizes the UV-screening agent within the emulsion. Furthermore, this specific combination, in particular with certain fillers, unexpectedly contributes to the reinforcement of the anti-UV properties, materialized by an increase in the UV protection index (SPF), both in vitro and in vivo.
  • SPF UV protection index
  • any UV-screening agent known from the prior art is capable of being able to be formulated in the composition according to the present invention.
  • Neo Heliopan OS from Haarmann and Reimer
  • Neo Heliopan TS from Haarmann and Reimer
  • Neo Heliopan E 1000 from Haarmann and Reimer
  • composition according to the invention may also contain at least one adjuvant chosen from adjuvants which are customary in the cosmetics field.
  • adjuvants are, for example, active ingredients, preservatives, antioxidants, complexing agents, film-forming agents, surfactants, co-surfactants, moisturizing agents, solvents, fragrances, fillers, bactericides, fungicides, parasiticides, odour absorbers, pH regulators, anti-inflammatory agents, colorants (dyes and pigments), and also lipid vesicles.
  • pigments should be understood as meaning white or coloured, mineral or organic particles that are insoluble in an aqueous solution, which are intended to colour and/or opacify the composition containing them.
  • mineral pigments that may be used in the invention, mention may be made of titanium oxide, titanium dioxide, zirconium oxide, zirconium dioxide, cerium oxide or cerium dioxide and also zinc oxide, iron oxide or chromium oxide, ferric blue, manganese violet, ultramarine blue and chromium hydrate, and mixtures thereof.
  • a pigment is sold, for example, under the reference Coverleaf ® NS or JS by the company Chemicals and Catalysts, and has a contrast ratio in the region of 30.
  • pigments having a structure may be, for example, of silica microsphere type containing iron oxide.
  • An example of a pigment having this structure is the product sold by the company Miyoshi under the reference PC Ball® PC- LL-100 P, this pigment consisting of silica microspheres containing yellow iron oxide.
  • the pigments in accordance with the invention are iron oxides and/or titanium dioxides.
  • these various adjuvants are those conventionally used in the field under consideration, and are for example from 0.01% to 20% of the total weight of the composition. Depending on their nature, these adjuvants may be introduced into the fatty phase, into the aqueous phase and/or into the lipid vesicles.
  • composition when the composition is an oil- in-water (O/W) direct emulsion, it also comprises at least one additional emulsifier, said additional emulsifier being distinct from the silicone polymers previously defined.
  • O/W oil- in-water
  • the additional emulsifier different from the silicone polymers previously defined has an HLB greater than 5. It is well known in the prior art of emulsifiers suitable for the present invention.
  • compositions of the invention can be used in any cosmetic or dermatological application, for example in the cosmetics industry for caring for the skin, the hair, the scalp, the eyelashes, the eyebrows, the nails or the mucous membranes, for instance the lips.
  • compositions according to the invention can be part of the production of protective, treatment or care products for the face, for the hands or for the body, as products for cleansing the skin, in particular of the face or of the body, as makeup products, for example foundations, or as hair products.
  • the cosmetic compositions according to the invention have applications in a very large number of cosmetic treatments for keratin materials, and more especially the skin.
  • the cosmetic compositions according to the invention are in particular suitable for treating the skin, in particular for moismrizing the skin, for attenuating the visible or tactile irregularities of the surface of the skin, in particular for covering skin imperfections and in particular for attenuating wrinkles, fine lines and skin marks, and for unifying the complexion of the skin.
  • the composition of the invention is particularly suitable for treating skin showing imperfections and also dehydrated or sensitive skin.
  • Tests on a panel have shown good corrective effects on complexion defects and attenuation of wrinkles, lightening effects, and also complexion unifying effects. In addition, the texture was judged to be fresh and very pleasant to use.
  • a subject of the present invention is the cosmetic use of the composition as defined above, for caring for the skin, in particular dehydrated skin or skin comprising imperfections.
  • composition according to the invention may be in any of the galenical forms conventionally used for topical applications and in particular in the form of a water- in-oil (W/O)emulsion with a liquid to semi-solid consistency.
  • W/O water- in-oil
  • a subject of the present invention is also a cosmetic method for attenuating the visible or tactile irregularities of the surface of the skin, comprising administration of a composition according to the invention to the surface of the skin.
  • the invention relates to a cosmetic method for attenuating wrinkles and fine lines and/or marks on the skin, comprising administration of a composition according to the invention to the skin.
  • the invention relates to a cosmetic method for matting the skin and/or unifying the complexion, comprising administration of a composition according to the invention to the skin.
  • the topical administration can be carried out at a rate of at least once a day, of at least once every 2 days, of once every 3 days, or of once a week.
  • the term "at least once a day” encompasses twice a day, 3 times a day, 4 times a day.
  • the presence of fillers also makes it possible to boost the UV protection index (SPF).
  • the aqueous phase is prepared in a Rayneri mixer, by dissolving the preservative and glycerol in water (at the required temperature), and then a hydrophilic gelling agent is added with stirring at a temperature of approximately 70°C until the gel is homogeneous.
  • the fatty phase is then homogenized, at a temperature suitable for obtaining a homogeneous liquid phase.
  • an emulsion is conventionally produced by adding the aqueous phase to the oily phase with stirring in a Rayneri mixer. The emulsion is then cooled with stirring and the filler(s) is (are) added until a homogeneous smooth cream is obtained.
  • the cosmetic properties were evaluated according to the following protocol.
  • the cosmetic properties on application are evaluated, monadically, by a panel of experts trained in the description of care products.
  • the sensory evaluation of the care products by this panel is performed as follows: the products are packaged in opaque jars or pump-dispenser bottles depending on the viscosity of the products. Within the same session, the samples are presented in random order to each panellist.
  • the parameters are evaluated on a 5-level scale: no, little, medium, quite, very. A score was assigned to each level: no (0), little (I), medium (2), quite (3) and very (4). Subsequently, the scores assigned by each of the 15 experts are added so as to obtain an overall score.
  • a ratio between the score obtained for the compositions according to the invention and the score obtained for the comparative compositions was calculated. A ratio greater than 1.5 was considered to be statistically significant for the parameter under consideration.
  • the comparative invert emulsion, W/O 1 (in accordance with application FR 2 909 555), and the invert emulsion according to the invention, W/O 2, are formulated as presented in Table 2 below.
  • K.SG-210 Sud Etsu
  • active material comprises 25% of active material in dimethicone
  • 2 represents 2.3% of "active material”
  • the matting and soft-focus effects are virtually identical for the water-in-oil invert emulsions W/O 1 and W/O 2.
  • the two emulsions W/O 1 and W/O 2 act on skin imperfections in an equivalent manner.
  • the invert emulsion W/O 2 according to the invention exhibits better effectiveness, which is materialized by a better penetration and moisturization sensation.
  • the penetration sensation correlates directly with the moisturization sensation, and therefore with the effectiveness of the product.
  • the comparative water-in-oil invert emulsion, W/O 3 (emulsion in accordance with application FR 2 909 555), and the water-in-oil invert emulsion according to the invention, W/O 4, are formulated as presented in Table 4 below.
  • KSG-210 Sud Etsu
  • the two water-in-oil invert emulsions W/O 3 and W/O 4 have equivalent matting and soft-focus effects.
  • the emulsion according to the invention W/O 4 exhibits a better penetration and moisturization sensation.
  • the emulsion according to the invention W/O 4 exhibits improved stability compared with the comparative emulsion W/O 3 (temperature and over time).
  • Table 6 represents the formulation of the emulsions W/O 5 and W/O 6.
  • the emulsion W/O 6 according to the invention exhibits better effectiveness materialized by a better penetration sensation compared with the comparative emulsion W/O 5.
  • the application properties and the skin finish are improved.
  • the addition of this filler makes it possible to significantly reduce the shine of the film after application, a property desired in particular in the presence of sunscreens.

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Abstract

L'invention concerne une composition qui se présente sous la forme d'une émulsion inverse comprenant au moins: i) une phase aqueuse; ii) une phase huileuse; iii) un polymère de silicone réticulé avec au moins une chaîne polyoxyalkylène et comprenant au moins une chaîne polyoxyalkylène pendante; et iv) une charge.
PCT/EP2015/066793 2014-07-22 2015-07-22 Émulsions comprenant au moins une charge et stabilisée par un polymère de silicone réticulé WO2016012513A1 (fr)

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WO2020227908A1 (fr) * 2019-05-14 2020-11-19 Beiersdorf Daily Chemical (Wuhan) Co. Ltd. Émulsion eau/huile à rupture rapide exempte de cyclométhicones
JP2021001286A (ja) * 2019-06-24 2021-01-07 日油株式会社 アルケニル基含有ポリオキシアルキレン誘導体、シリコーン変性剤、ポリオキシアルキレン変性シリコーンおよび化粧料オイル改質剤

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