Classifications

• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
  • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
  • A61K8/02—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by special physical form
  • A61K8/04—Dispersions; Emulsions
  • A61K8/06—Emulsions
• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
  • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
  • A61K8/02—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by special physical form
  • A61K8/04—Dispersions; Emulsions
  • A61K8/06—Emulsions
  • A61K8/062—Oil-in-water emulsions
• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
  • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
  • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
  • A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
  • A61K8/84—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions otherwise than those involving only carbon-carbon unsaturated bonds
  • A61K8/89—Polysiloxanes
  • A61K8/891—Polysiloxanes saturated, e.g. dimethicone, phenyl trimethicone, C24-C28 methicone or stearyl dimethicone
  • A61K8/892—Polysiloxanes saturated, e.g. dimethicone, phenyl trimethicone, C24-C28 methicone or stearyl dimethicone modified by a hydroxy group, e.g. dimethiconol
• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
  • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
  • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
  • A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
  • A61K8/84—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions otherwise than those involving only carbon-carbon unsaturated bonds
  • A61K8/89—Polysiloxanes
  • A61K8/891—Polysiloxanes saturated, e.g. dimethicone, phenyl trimethicone, C24-C28 methicone or stearyl dimethicone
  • A61K8/894—Polysiloxanes saturated, e.g. dimethicone, phenyl trimethicone, C24-C28 methicone or stearyl dimethicone modified by a polyoxyalkylene group, e.g. cetyl dimethicone copolyol
• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
  • A61Q1/00—Make-up preparations; Body powders; Preparations for removing make-up
• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
  • A61Q1/00—Make-up preparations; Body powders; Preparations for removing make-up
  • A61Q1/02—Preparations containing skin colorants, e.g. pigments
• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
  • A61Q17/00—Barrier preparations; Preparations brought into direct contact with the skin for affording protection against external influences, e.g. sunlight, X-rays or other harmful rays, corrosive materials, bacteria or insect stings
  • A61Q17/04—Topical preparations for affording protection against sunlight or other radiation; Topical sun tanning preparations
• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
  • A61Q19/00—Preparations for care of the skin
• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
  • A61K2800/00—Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
  • A61K2800/40—Chemical, physico-chemical or functional or structural properties of particular ingredients
  • A61K2800/59—Mixtures
  • A61K2800/592—Mixtures of compounds complementing their respective functions
  • A61K2800/5922—At least two compounds being classified in the same subclass of A61K8/18

Definitions

• the present invention relates to a composition, especially cosmetic composition for caring for/making up the keratin materials, especially the skin and the lips, and more particularly a cosmetic composition of emulsion type, exhibiting optimized water washability effect, and meanwhile is capable of protecting the keratin materials from hazardous effect caused by sun.
• Keratin materials such as the skin, the scalp, and the hair, are continuously exposed to many hazardous environmental agents, including UV radiation, air pollutants, such as ozone and ionizing radiation, which generate Reactive Oxygen Species (ROS), among which, the exposure to the sun has caused to the keratin materials many hazardous problems, such as sunburn and aging caused by UV rays and pro-oxidants.
• hazardous environmental agents including UV radiation, air pollutants, such as ozone and ionizing radiation, which generate Reactive Oxygen Species (ROS), among which, the exposure to the sun has caused to the keratin materials many hazardous problems, such as sunburn and aging caused by UV rays and pro-oxidants.
• ROS Reactive Oxygen Species
• UVB rays with a short wavelength and highly energy-intensive, are responsible for sunburns of the skin. UVA rays are less energy-intensive, but 20 times more numerous than UVB rays.
• UVA rays are less energy-intensive, but 20 times more numerous than UVB rays.
• the harmful effects of UV lights on the keratin materials affect cellular respiration of these keratin materials and result in accelerated aging of the skin with a dull complexion and premature formation of wrinkles and fine lines, as well as a decrease in the strength of the hair also take a dull appearance.
• the UV rays can cause irritation and allergic
• Such a composition can be obtained using a combination of at least two surfactants chosen from C 8 -C 2 2 alkyl dimethicone copolyols, dimethicone copolyols different from the aforementioned dimethicone copolyols, and/or poly oxyalkylenated silicone elastomers, different from aforementioned dimethicone copolyols, at least one third surfactant which is different from the aforementioned combination of surfactants, and at least one UV filter.
• surfactants chosen from C 8 -C 2 2 alkyl dimethicone copolyols, dimethicone copolyols different from the aforementioned dimethicone copolyols, and/or poly oxyalkylenated silicone elastomers, different from aforementioned dimethicone copolyols, at least one third surfactant which is different from the aforementioned combination of surfactants, and at least one UV filter
• the subject of the present invention is a composition in form of an emulsion, comprising at least one fatty phase, and at least one aqueous phase, and: a) a combination of at least two surfactants chosen from the group consisting of:
• At least one third surfactant different from the surfactants a), chosen from polydialkyl silicones containing polyglycerol or glycerol side and/or end groups; and
• the composition of the present invention is in form of a multiple emulsion, such as water-in-oil-in-water emulsion, or oil-in-water-in-oil emulsion, preferably an oil-in-water-in-oil emulsion.
• the composition of the present invention comprises at least one additional surfactant, different from the surfactants a) and b).
• the present invention comprises at least one pigment, inorganic or organic, hydrophilic or hydrophobic, treated or untreated.
• the present invention comprises at least one thickener, polymeric or mineral, preferably chosen from hydrophilic thickeners, lipophilic thickeners, or a mixture thereof. More preferably the thickener is chosen from polysaccharide biopolymers, lipophilic clays, hydrophobic silicas, or a mixture thereof, more preferably the thickener is chosen xanthan gum, disteardimonium hectorite, silica silylate, or a mixture thereof.
• the present invention is also directed towards a process for caring for/making up the skin, in particular the face, characterized in that it comprises the application to the skin of at least one composition in accordance with the invention.
• the current invention as described above is stable over time at room temperature (25 °C), for example, after storage for 2 months, and further, for example, for 4 months.
• the present invention provides good UV protection on the skin.
• the present invention possesses an optimized water washability property.
• the composition of the invention advantageo usly possesses good makeup effect to the skin, such as homogeneous coverage, and long lasting effect.
• water washability it intends to mean the washable ability of the present composition when using water for rinsing off from the skin.
• composition in form of an emulsion comprising at least one fatty phase, at least one aqueous phase, and: a) a combination of at least two surfactants chosen from the group consisting of:
• At least one third surfactant different from the surfactants a), chosen from polydialkyl silicones containing polyglycerol or glycerol side and/or end groups; and
• composition according to the present invention comprises at least one fatty phase containing at least one oil.
• composition of the present invention comprises at least two fatty phases.
• oil means any fatty substance that is in liquid form at room temperature (20-25°C) and at atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg).
• the fatty phase(s) that is suitable for preparing the cosmetic compositions according to the invention may comprise hydrocarbon-based oils, silicone oils, fluoro oils or non-fluoro oils, or mixtures thereof.
• the oils may be volatile or non-volatile.
• the ratio between volatile oil and non- volatile oil is greater than or equal to 1 :3, more preferably greater than or equal to 1 : 1. They may be of animal, plant, mineral or synthetic origin.
• non-volatile oil means oil that remains on the keratin materials, especially the skin and the lips at room temperature (20-25°C) and atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg). More specifically, non-volatile oil has an evaporation rate strictly less than 0.01 mg/cm 2 /min. To measure this evaporation rate, 15 g of oil or of oil mixture to be tested are placed in a crystallizing dish 7 cm in diameter, which is placed on a balance in a large chamber of about 0.3 m 3 that is temperature-regulated, at a temperature of 25°C, and hygrometry-regulated, at a relative humidity of 50%.
• the liquid is allowed to evaporate freely, without stirring it, while providing ventilation by means of a fan (Papst-Motoren, reference 8550 N, rotating at 2700 rpm) placed in a vertical position above the crystallizing dish containing said oil or said oil mixture, the blades being directed towards the crystallizing dish, 20 cm away from the bottom of the crystallizing dish.
• the mass of said oil or oil mixture remaining in the crystallizing dish is measured at regular intervals.
• the evaporation rates are expressed in mg of oil evaporated per unit of area (cm 2 ) and per unit of time (minute).
• volatile oil means any non-aqueous medium that is capable of evaporating on contact with the keratin materials, especially the skin and the lips in less than one hour, at room temperature (20-25°C) and atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg).
• the volatile oil is a cosmetic volatile oil, which is liquid at room temperature. More specifically, a volatile oil has an evaporation rate of between 0.01 and 200 mg/cm 2 /min, limits included.
• silicone oil means oil comprising at least one silicon atom, and especially at least one Si-0 group.
• fluoro oil means oil comprising at least one fluorine atom.
• hydrocarbon-based oil means oil mainly containing hydrogen and carbon atoms.
• hydrocarbon-based oils mention may be made of: hydrocarbon-based oils of animal origin, hydrocarbon-based oils of plant origin, linear or branched hydrocarbons of mineral or synthetic origin, synthetic ethers containing from 10 to 40 carbon atoms; synthetic esters, fatty alcohols that are liquid at room temperature, with a branched and/or unsaturated carbon- based chain containing from 12 to 26 carbon atoms,
• Mentions maybe made of the hydrocarbon-based oils such as liquid paraffins and derivatives thereof, petroleum jelly, polydecenes, polybutenes, hydrogenated polyisobutene such as Parleam, and squalane, for example Squalane which is available under the trademark Pripure 3759-LQ-(GD) sold by Croda.
• hydrocarbon-based oils such as liquid paraffins and derivatives thereof, petroleum jelly, polydecenes, polybutenes, hydrogenated polyisobutene such as Parleam, and squalane, for example Squalane which is available under the trademark Pripure 3759-LQ-(GD) sold by Croda.
• the oils may optionally comprise oxygen, nitrogen, sulfur and/or phosphorus atoms, for example in the form of hydroxyl or acid radicals.
• the composition of the present invention further comprises silicone oils.
• silicone oils mention may be made of: linear or cyclic volatiles oils, especially those with a viscosity of less than or equal to 8 centistokes (cSt) (8 ⁇ 10 ⁇ 6 m 2 /s), and especially containing from 2 to 10 silicon atoms and in particular from 2 to 7 silicon atoms, these silicones optionally comprising alkyl or alkoxy groups containing from 1 to 10 carbon atoms; of linear or cyclic non-volatile polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMS); polydimethylsiloxanes comprising alkyl, alkoxy or phenyl groups, which are pendant or at the end of a silicone chain, these groups containing from 2 to 24 carbon atoms; phenyl silicones, for instance phenyl trimethicones, phenyl dimethicones, phenyl trimethylsiloxy diphenyl siloxanes, diphenyl dimethicones, diphenyl methyldiphenyl trisiloxa
• cyclohexasiloxane which is available under the trademark, for example, KF-996 sold by the company Shin Etsu, or Xiameter ® PMX- 0246 sold by the company Dow Corning, or dimethicones which is available under the trademark Xiameter ® PMX-200 silicone fluid 5cs, Xiameter ® PMX-200 silicone fluid 350cs, or Xiameter ® PMX-200 silicone fluid 10cs sold by the company Dow Corning.
• the composition may comprise a fatty phase presenting in the composition in a content ranging from 1 % to 50%, preferably from 2% to 40%, and more preferably from 5% to 35% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
• composition according to the invention comprises at least one aqueous phase.
• the aqueous phase comprises water.
• the aqueous phase may also comprise water-miscible organic solvents (at room temperature of 20-25°C), for instance monoalcohols containing from 2 to 6 carbon atoms, such as ethanol or isopropanol; polyols especially containing from 2 to 20 carbon atoms, preferably containing from 2 to 10 carbon atoms and preferentially containing from 2 to 6 carbon atoms, such as glycerol, propylene glycol, butylene glycol, pentylene glycol, hexylene glycol, dipropylene glycol or diethylene glycol; glycol ethers (especially containing from 3 to 16 carbon atoms) such as mono-, di- or tripropylene glycol (d-C 4 )alkyl ethers, mono-, di- or triethylene glycol (Ci-C 4 )alkyl ethers, and mixtures thereof.
• monoalcohols containing from 2 to 6 carbon atoms, such as ethanol or isopropanol
• the aqueous phase may also comprise stabilizers, for example sodium chloride, magnesium dichloride or magnesium sulfate.
• a composition of the invention may comprise an aqueous phase in a content ranging from 1 % to 90% by weight, especially from 5% to 80% and more particularly from 10% to 75% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
• composition of the present invention comprises a combination of at least two surfactants, chosen from: i) C 8 -C 2 2 alkyl dimethicone copolyols;
• the combination of the surfactants a) is present in an amount ranging from 0.1 % to 20% by weight, in particular ranging from 0.5% to 10% by weight, more particularly from 1 % to 8% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
• the C 8 -C 2 2 alkyl dimethicone copolyols present in the composition according to the invention is an oxypropylenated and/or oxyethylenated polymethyl (C 8 -C 2 2)alkyl dimethyl methyl siloxane.
• alkyl dimethicone copolyol is advantageously a compound of the following formula
• - PE represents (-C 2 H 4 0) x -(C 3 H 6 0)y-R, R being chosen from a hydrogen atom and an alkyl radical of 1 to 4 carbon atoms, x ranging from 0 to 100 and y ranging from 0 to 80, x and y not being simultaneously 0,
• - m ranges from 1 to 40
• - n ranges from 10 to 200
• cetyl dimethicone copolyols for example, copolyols of cetyl dimethicones and alkoxylated derivative of dimethicones, more preferably for example cetyl PEG/PPG-10/1 dimethicone, such as the product marketed under the name Abil s) EM-90 by the company Goldschmidt.
• the C 8 -C 22 alkyl dimethicone copolyol may be present in the composition according to the invention in an amount ranging from 0.1 % to 19,9% by weight, relative to the total weight of the emulsion, in particular ranging from 0.5% to 10% by weight, even better ranging from 1 % to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
• ii) Dimethicone copolyols The dimethicone copolyols, which is different from i) C 8 -C 22 alkyl dimethicone copolyols mentioned above, present in the composition according to the invention is an oxypropylenated and/or oxyethylenated polydimethylmethylsiloxane.
• Ri, f3 ⁇ 4, R 3 independently of each other, represent a Ci-C 6 alkyl radical or a radical -(CH 2 ) X - (OCH 2 CH 2 )y-(OCH 2 CH 2 CH 2 ) z -OR 4 , at least one radical R-, , R 2 or R 3 not being an alkyl radical; R 4 being hydrogen, a C 1 -C3 alkyl radical or a C 2 -C 4 acyl radical; A is an integer ranging from 0 to 200;
• B is an integer ranging from 0 to 50; provided that A and B are not equal to zero at the same time; x is an integer ranging from 1 to 6; y is an integer ranging from 1 to 30; z is an integer ranging from 0 to 5.
• x is an integer ranging from 2 to 6
• y is an integer ranging from 4 to 30.
• R 4 is in particular hydrogen.
• silicone compounds of formula (II) the compounds of formula (IV): HO-(CH 2 CH 2 0) y -(CH 2 )3-[(CH 3 ) 2 SiO] A .-[(CH 3 ) 2 Si]-(CH 2 )3-(OCH 2 CH 2 ) y -OH (IV) in which A' and y are integers ranging from 10 to 20.
• Dimethicone copolyols that may be used include those sold under the names DC ® 5329, DC ® 7439-146, DC ® 2-5695 and Q4-3667 by the company Dow Corning; KF-6013, KF-6015, KF-6016, KF-6017 and KF-6028 by the company Shin-Etsu.
• the compounds DC ® 5329, DC ® 7439-146, DC 2-5695 are compounds of formula (III) where respectively A is 22, B is 2 and y is 12; A is 103, B is 10 and y is 12; A is 27, B is 3 and y is 12.
• dimethicone copolyol chosen from PEG polydimethylsiloxyethyl dimethicones, such as PEG-10 dimethicone under the trademark KF- 6017, and/or PEG-9 polydimethylsioxyethyl dimethicone (and) PEG-9 under the trademark KF- 6028, that are sold by the company Shin-Etsu.
• the dimethicone copolyol may be present in the emulsion according to the invention in an amount ranging from 0.1 % to 19,9% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, and preferably ranging from 0.5% to 10% by weight, and preferably ranging from 0.8% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
• Non-limiting examples of emulsifying polyoxyalkylenated silicone elastomers include those disclosed in US Pat NOs. 5,236,986, 5,412,004, 5,837,793 and 5,811 ,487, which are herein incorporated by reference. These silicone elastomers are preferably formulated under the form of a gel in a hydrocarbonated and/or a silicone oil. In those gels, the polyoxyalkylenated silicone elastomer is often under the form of spherical particles.
• polyoxyethylenated silicone elastomers examples include the following compositions: available from Shin Etsu;
• KSG-20 (at 95% % in active material) INCI name: PEG-10 Dimethicone Crosspolymer), KSG-30, (at 100 % % in active material) INCI name: Lauryl PEG-15 Dimethicone vinyl dimethicone crosspolymer),
• KSG-31 (at 25 % in active material) INCI name: Lauryl PEG-15 Dimethicone vinyl dimethicone crosspolymer),
• KSG-32 or KSG-42 or KSG-320 or KSG-30 (at 25 % in active material) INCI name: Lauryl PEG-15 Dimethicone vinyl dimethicone crosspolymer),
• KSG-210 (at 25 % in active material) INCI name: Dimethicone /PEG-10/15 crosspolymer),
• KSG-310 lauryl modified polydimethylsiloxane polyoxyethylenated in mineral oil
• KSG-330 and KSG-340 PEG-15/lauryl dimethicone crosspolymer
• DC 9010 (at 9% in active material) and DC901 1 (at 11 % in active material) INCI name: PEG-12 dimethicone crosspolymer)
• the above products are typically in the form of oily gel containing the particles of silicone elastomer.
• KSG-210 is used (INCI name: Dimethicone /PEG-10/15 crosspolymer, 25% active silicone elastomer in a silicone oil).
• the polyoxyalkylenated silicone elastomers may be present in the emulsion according to the invention in an amount ranging from 0.1 % to 19.9% by weight, preferably from 0.5% to 15% by weight, more preferably from 1 % to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
• Third surfactant The composition of the present invention comprises at least one third surfactant. The third surfactant is different from the a) a combination of surfactants aforementioned.
• the third surfactant is chosen from polydialkyi silicones containing polyglycerol or glycerol side and/or end groups.
• These silicone surfactants also preferably comprise linear or branched Ci to C 2 o alkyl side groups, and preferably also linear alkyl groups such as lauryl or cetyl.
• these silicone and glycerolated surfactants may also bear organosiloxane side groups.
• polydimethylsiloxanes containing polyglycerol side groups such as polyglyceryl-3 disiloxane dimethicone, sold under the name KF-6100 by the company Shin-Etsu;
• polyglycerol side groups such as polyglyceryl-3 polydimethyl siloxyethyl dimethicone, sold under the name KF-6104 by the company Shin-Etsu;
• polydimethylsiloxanes containing polyglycerol side groups and alkyl side groups such as lauryl polyglyceryl-3 polydimethyl siloxyethyl dimethicone, sold under the name KF- 6105 by the company Shin-Etsu.
• KF-6100 is used (INCI name: polyglyceryl-3 disiloxane dimethicone).
• the third surfactant may be present in the emulsion according to the invention in an amount ranging from 0.1 % to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.5% to 15% by weight, and preferably ranging from 1 % to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
• composition of the poyresent invention comprises at least one UV filter.
• UV filter There is no limitation to the type of the UV filter. Two or more types of UV filters may be used in the composition of the invention. Thus, a single type of UV filter or a combination of different types of UV filters may be used.
• the UV filter can be selected from inorganic UV filters, organic UV filters, and mixtures thereof.
• the UV filter is present in the composition of the invention in an amount of generally from 0.5% to 20%, preferably from 1 % to 10% and more preferably from 2% to 7.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
• Organic UV filter is present in the composition of the invention in an amount of generally from 0.5% to 20%, preferably from 1 % to 10% and more preferably from 2% to 7.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
• composition according to the present invention may comprise an organic UV filter.
• the organic UV filter used for the present invention may be active in the UV-A and/or UV-B region.
• the organic UV filter may be hydrophilic and/or lipophilic.
• the organic UV filter may be solid or liquid.
• solid and liquid mean solid and liquid, respectively, at 25°C under 1 atm.
• the organic UV filter can be selected from the group consisting of anthranilic compounds; dibenzoylmethane compounds; cinnamic compounds; salicylic compounds; camphor compounds; benzophenone compounds; ⁇ , ⁇ -diphenylacrylate compounds; triazine compounds; benzotriazole compounds; benzalmalonate compounds; benzimidazole compounds; imidazoline compounds; bis-benzoazolyl compounds; p-aminobenzoic acid (PABA) compounds; methylenebis(hydroxyphenylbenzotriazole) compounds; benzoxazole compounds; screening polymers and screening silicones; dimers derived from a-alkylstyrene; 4,4-diarylbutadienes compounds; guaiazulene and derivatives thereof; rutin and derivatives thereof; flavonoids; bioflavonoids; oryzanol and derivatives thereof; quinic acid and derivatives thereof; phenols; retinol; cysteine; aromatic amino acids;
• Anthranilic compounds Menthyl anthranilate, marketed under the trademark "Neo Heliopan MA” by Haarmann and Reimer.
• Cinnamic compounds Ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate, marketed in particular under the trademark "Parsol MCX” by DSM Nutritional Products; isopropyl methoxycinnamate; isopropoxy methoxycinnamate; isoamyl methoxycinnamate, marketed under the trademark "Neo Heliopan E 1000" by Haarmann and Reimer; cinoxate (2-ethoxyethyl-4-methoxy cinnamate); DEA methoxycinnamate; diisopropyl methylcinnamate; and glyceryl ethylhexanoate dimethoxycinnamate.
• - Salicylic compounds Homosalate (homomentyl salicylate), marketed under the trademark “Eusolex HMS” by Rona/EM Industries; ethylhexyl salicylate, marketed under the trademark “Neo Heliopan OS” by Haarmann and Reimer; glycol salicylate; butyloctyl salicylate; phenyl salicylate; dipropyleneglycol salicylate, marketed under the trademark “Dipsal” by Scher; and TEA salicylate, marketed under the trademark "Neo Heliopan TS” by Haarmann and Reimer.
• benzylidenecamphor derivatives 3-benzylidene camphor, manufactured under the trademark "Mexoryl SD” by Chimex; 4-methylbenzylidene camphor, marketed under the trademark “Eusolex 6300” by Merck; benzylidene camphor sulfonic acid, manufactured under the trademark “Mexoryl SL” by Chimex; camphor benzalkonium methosulfate, manufactured under the trademark "Mexoryl SO” by Chimex; terephthalylidene dicamphor sulfonic acid, manufactured under the trademark "Mexoryl SX” by Chimex; and polyacrylamidomethyl benzylidene camphor, manufactured under the trademark "Mexoryl SW” by Chimex.
• Benzophenone-1 (2,4-dihydroxybenzophenone), marketed under the trademark "Uvinul 400" by BASF; benzophenone-2 (Tetrahydroxybenzophenone), marketed under the trademark “Uvinul D50” by BASF; Benzophenone-3 (2-hydroxy-4- methoxybenzophenone) or oxybenzone, marketed under the trademark "Uvinul M40” by BASF; benzophenone-4 (hydroxymethoxy benzophonene sulfonic acid), marketed under the trademark "Uvinul MS40" by BASF; benzophenone-5 (Sodium hydroxymethoxy benzophenone Sulfonate); benzophenone-6 (dihydroxy dimethoxy benzophenone); marketed under the trademark "Helisorb 1 1 " by Norquay; benzophenone-8, marketed under the trademark "Spectra-Sorb UV- 24" by American Cyanamid; benzophenone-9 (Disodium dihydroxy dimethoxy be
• Octocrylene marketed in particular under the trademark "Uvinul N539” by BASF
• Etocrylene marketed in particular under the trademark "Uvinul N35” by BASF.
• Triazine compounds Diethylhexyl butamido triazone, marketed under the trademark “Uvasorb HEB” by Sigma 3V; 2,4,6-tris(dineopentyl 4'-aminobenzalmalonate)-s-triazine, bis- ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine marketed under the trademark «TINOSORB S » by CIBA GEIGY, and ethylhexyl triazone marketed under the trademark «UVINUL T150 » by BASF.
• Benzotriazole compounds in particular, phenylbenzotriazole derivatives: 2-(2H-benzotriazole- 2-yl)-6-dodecyl-4-methylpheno, branched and linear; and those described in USP 5240975.
• - Benzalmalonate compounds Dineopentyl 4'-methoxybenzalmalonate, and polyorganosiloxane comprising benzalmalonate functional groups, such as polysilicone-15, marketed under the trademark "Parsol SLX" by Hoffmann-LaRoche.
• Benzimidazole compounds in particular, phenylbenzimidazole derivatives: Phenylbenzimidazole sulfonic acid, marketed in particular under the trademark “Eusolex 232” by Merck, and disodium phenyl dibenzimidazole tetrasulfonate, marketed under the trademark "Neo Heliopan AP” by Haarmann and Reimer.
• PABA p-aminobenzoic acid
• ethyl PABA Ethyl dihydroxypropyl PABA
• pentyl dimethyl PABA ethylhexyl dimethyl PABA
• glyceryl PABA glyceryl PABA
• PEG-25 PABA marketed under the trademark "Uvinul P25” by BASF.
• Drometrizole trisiloxane marketed under the trademark "Silatrizole” by Rhodia Chimie or "Mexoryl XL” by L'Oreal, as represented below.
• Dimers derived from oalkylstyrene The dimers described in DE-19855649.
• organic UV filter(s) be selected from the group consisting of:
• ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate marketed in particular under the trademark "Parsol MCX” by DSM Nutritional Products
• isopropyl methoxycinnamate isopropoxy methoxycinnamate
• isoamyl methoxycinnamate marketed under the trademark "Neo Heliopan E 1000” by Haarmann and Reimer
• cinoxate (2-ethoxyethyl-4-methoxy cinnamate)
• DEA methoxycinnamate diisopropyl methylcinnamate
• glyceryl ethylhexanoate dimethoxycinnamate glyceryl ethylhexanoate dimethoxycinnamate
• phenylbenzimidazole sulfonic acid marketed in particular under the trademark “Eusolex 232” by Merck
• disodium phenyl dibenzimidazole tetrasulfonate marketed under the trademark "Neo Heliopan AP” by Haarmann and Reimer
• the organic UV filter(s) of the present invention is selected from ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate, phenylbenzimidazole sulfonic acid, or a mixture thereof.
• the organic UV filter is present in the composition of the invention in an amount of generally from 0.5% to 20%, preferably from 1 % to 10% and more preferably from 2% to 7.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
• composition according to the present invention may comprise an inorganic UV filter.
• the inorganic UV filter used for the present invention may be active in the UV-A and/or UV-B region.
• the inorganic UV filter is generally chosen from metal oxides, preferably titanium, zinc or iron oxides, or mixtures thereof, and more particularly from titanium dioxide (amorphous or crystalline in rutile and/or anatase form), zinc oxide and mixtures thereof.
• the inorganic UV-screening agent is Ti0 2 .
• metal oxides may be in the form of particles, having a mean elementary size generally of less than 200 nm.
• the metal oxide particles used have a mean elementary size of less than or equal to 0.15 pm.
• These metal oxides may also be in the form of layers, preferably multilayers with a mean thickness generally of less than 0.2 pm.
• the inorganic UV filters in accordance with the invention preferably have a mean elementary particle size of greater than 5 nm and less than 200 nm. According to one particularly preferred embodiment of the invention, this size preferably ranges from 10 nm to 150 nm.
• the inorganic UV filters may be titanium oxide- based nanopigments.
• the inorganic UV filters may be coated or uncoated.
• the coated inorganic UV filters are pigments that have undergone one or more surface treatments of chemical, electronic, mechanochemical and/or mechanical nature with compounds as described, for example, in Cosmetics & Toiletries, February 1990, Vol. 105, pp. 53-64, such as amino acids, beeswax, fatty acids, fatty alcohols, anionic surfactants, lecithins, sodium, potassium, zinc, iron or aluminium salts of fatty acids, metal alkoxides (titanium or aluminium alkoxides), polyethylene, silicones, proteins (collagen, elastin), alkanolamines, silicon oxides, metal oxides or sodium hexametaphosphate.
• surface treatments of chemical, electronic, mechanochemical and/or mechanical nature with compounds as described, for example, in Cosmetics & Toiletries, February 1990, Vol. 105, pp. 53-64 such as amino acids, beeswax, fatty acids, fatty alcohols, anionic surfactants, lecithin
• the inorganic UV filters may be chosen from coated or uncoated Titanium dioxide.
• coated pigments are more particularly titanium oxides that have been coated:
• silica such as the product Sunveil from the company Ikeda
• alumina and aluminium stearate such as the products Microtitanium Dioxide MT 100 TV, MT 100 TX, MT 100 Z and MT-01 from the company Tayca, the products Solaveil CT-10 W and Solaveil CT 100 from the company Uniqema and the product Eusolex T-AVO from the company Merck,
• the uncoated titanium oxide pigments are sold, for example, by the company Tayca under the trade names Microtitanium Dioxide MT 500 B or Microtitanium Dioxide MT 600 B, by the company Degussa under the name P 25, by the company Wackherr under the name Transparent titanium oxide PW, by the company Miyoshi Kasei under the name UFTR, by the company Tomen under the name ITS and by the company Tioxide under the name Tioveil AQ.
• titanium dioxide coated with alumina and aluminium stearate such as the products Microtitanium Dioxide MT 100 TV
• the inorganic UV filter is present in the composition of the invention in an amount of generally from 0.01 % to 10%, preferably from 0.05% to 5% and more preferably from 0.1 % to 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
• Pigments "Pigments” are white or coloured, organic or inorganic, hydrophilic or hydrophobic, noninterference particles which are insoluble in aqueous and non-aqueous media and are intended for colouring the composition.
• Inorganic pigments which can be used in the invention include oxides or dioxides of titanium, zirconium or cerium, and also oxides of zinc, iron or chromium, Prussian blue, manganese violet, ultramarine blue and chromium hydrate, and mixtures thereof.
• the organic pigments which can be used in the invention include D & C pigments, lakes based on cochineal carmine, and on barium, strontium, calcium and aluminium, or else the diketopyrrolopyrroles (DPP) which are described in documents EP-A-542 669, EP-A-787 730, EP-A-787 731 and WO-A-96/08537.
• DPP diketopyrrolopyrroles
• the composition of the present invention comprises at least one inorganic pigment, treated or untreated, hydrophilic or hydrophobic.
• the hydrophilic pigments can be any type which has conventionally been used or is usable in the fields of cosmetic, examples of which include hydrophilic pigments in an untreated state, or can be pigments which have been surface-treated for hydrophilization, or a mixture thereof.
• the hydrophilic pigments in accordance with the invention are iron oxides and/or titanium dioxides, treated or untreated.
• 'pearlescent pigments' or "nacres” should be understood as meaning coloured particles of any form, which may or may not be iridescent, especially produced by certain molluscs in their shell, or alternatively synthesized, and which have a colour effect via optical interference.
• the nacres may be chosen from nacreous pigments such as titanium mica coated with an iron oxide, titanium mica coated with bismuth oxychloride, titanium mica coated with chromium oxide, titanium mica coated with an organic dye and also nacreous pigments based on bismuth oxychloride. They may also be mica particles at the surface of which are superposed at least two successive layers of metal oxides and/or of organic dyestuffs. Examples of nacres that may also be mentioned include natural mica coated with titanium oxide, with iron oxide, with natural pigment or with bismuth oxychloride.
• the nacres may more particularly have a yellow, pink, red, bronze, orange, brown, gold and/or coppery colour or glint.
• gold-coloured nacres sold especially by the company Engelhard under the name Brillant gold 212G (Timica), Gold 222C (Cloisonne), Sparkle gold (Timica), Gold 4504 (Chromalite) and Monarch gold 233X (Cloisonne); the bronze nacres sold especially by the company Merck under the names Bronze fine (17384) (Colorona) and Bronze (17353) (Colorona) and by the company Engelhard under the name Super bronze (Cloisonne); the orange nacres sold especially by the company Engelhard under the names Orange 363C (Cloisonne) and Orange MCR 101 (Cosmica) and by the company Merck under the names Passion orange (Colorona) and Matte orange (17449) (Microna); the brown-tinted n
• the pigment is chosen so as to have a relatively large average particle size, preferably having an average particle size of 0.1 to 50 ⁇ , more preferably 0.1 to 30 ⁇ , and even more preferably 0.1 to 20 pm.
• the hydrophilic pigment is an untreated inorganic pigment, preferably an untreated metal oxide, such as titanium oxide and/or iron oxide.
• Mentions may be made of, for example, the products sold under the trade name HOMBITAN FF PHARMA from SACHTLEBEN, the products sold under the trade name Sunpuro TM red iron oxide C33-8001 (INCI name iron oxides R), Sunpuro TM black iron oxide C33-7001 (INCI name iron oxides B), or Sunpuro TM yellow iron oxide C33-9001 (INCI name iron oxides Y) by the company SUN.
• the hydrophilic pigment is a treated hydrophilic pigment, i.e. a pigment which has been surface-treated for hydrophilization with any treatment agent which has been conventionally used to confer a hydrophilic property to pigments.
• a hydrophilic organic agent for surface-treating a material in order to optimize its dispersion in aqueous medium is more particularly chosen from biological polymers, carbohydrates, polysaccharides, polyacrylates and polyethylene glycol derivatives.
• the materials thus treated may, in the absence of being soluble in a solvent medium, such as water, be dispersible therein.
• biological polymers for coating the dyestuffs to be dissolved according to the invention mention may be made of polymers based on monomers of carbohydrate type.
• biosaccharide gum chitosans and derivatives thereof, such as butoxy chitosan, carboxymethyl chitosan, carboxybutyl chitosan, chitosan gluconate, chitosan adipate, chitosan glycolate, chitosan lactate, etc.
• chitins and derivatives thereof such as carboxymethyl chitin, chitin glycolate; cellulose and derivatives thereof such as cellulose acetate; microcrystalline cellulose; distarch phosphate; sodium hyaluronate; soluble proteoglycans; galacto-arabinans; glycosaminoglycans; glycogen; sclerotium gum; dextran; starch and derivatives thereof; and mixtures thereof.
• pigments which have been surface-treated by surface treating agents such as in a silica treatment, alumina treatment, silica alumina treatment or a titani
• a silica and silica (and) alumina treatment treatment are especially preferable for selection, and the treatment itself is conventional in the present technical field.
• composition of the present invention comprises at least one treated hydrophilic pigment chosen from silica and alumina treated titanium dioxide, silica treated iron oxide, or a mixture thereof.
• present invention comprises at least one hydrophobic pigment, treated or untreated.
• inorganic pigments selected more particularly from titanium oxides and iron oxides (especially yellow, black and red), treated with at least one hydrophobic agent.
• the pigments of the invention are preferably wholly or partly surface -treated with a hydrophobic agent, more particularly with a fluoro, fatty acid or amino acid, or silicone compound, or a mixture thereof.
• Their initial particle size D [0.5] is especially less than 20 ⁇ , preferably between 0.4 and 10 ⁇ , end points included.
• the hydrophobic treatment agent may be selected from fatty acids such as stearic acid; metal soaps such as aluminium dimyristate and the aluminium salt of hydrogenated tallow glutamate; perfluoroalkyl phosphates and polyhexafluoropropylene oxides; perfluoropolyethers; amino acids; N-acylamino acids or salts thereof; lecithin, isopropyl trisostearyl titanate, isostearyl sebacate, and silicone compounds such as dimethicones or polydimethylsiloxanes, and mixtures thereof.
• fatty acids such as stearic acid
• metal soaps such as aluminium dimyristate and the aluminium salt of hydrogenated tallow glutamate
• perfluoroalkyl phosphates and polyhexafluoropropylene oxides perfluoropolyethers
• amino acids N-acylamino acids or salts thereof
• lecithin isopropyl triso
• the hydrophobic treatment agent is preferably selected from perfluoroalkyl phosphates, polyhexafluoropropylene oxides, perfluoropolyethers, amino acids, N-acylamino acids or salts thereof, isopropyl trisostearyl titanate, and mixtures thereof.
• the hydrophobic agent is selected from perfluoroalkyl phosphates, N-acylamino acids or salts thereof, isopropyl trisostearyl titanate, and mixtures thereof.
• the surface-treated pigments may be prepared according to chemical, electronic, chemomechanical or mechanical surface treatment techniques that are well known to the skilled person. It is also possible to use commercial products.
• the surface agent may be absorbed or adsorbed on the pigments by solvent evaporation, chemical reaction and creation of a covalent bond.
• the surface treatment comprises a coating of the pigments.
• the coating may represent from 0.1 to 10% by weight and more particularly from 1 % to 5% by weight, of the total weight of the coated pigments.
• Coating may be carried out, for example, by adsorption of a liquid surface agent on the surface of the pigments, by simple mixing with stirring of the pigments and of said surface agent, optionally under hot conditions, prior to the incorporation of the pigments into the other ingredients of the care or makeup composition.
• Coating may be carried out, for example, by chemical reaction of a surface agent with the surface of the pigments and creation of a covalent bond between the surface agent and the pigments. This method is described especially in patent US 4,578,266.
• the hydrophobic treatment agent may be selected from fatty acids, such as stearic acid; metal soaps, such as aluminium dimyristate and the aluminium salt of hydrogenated tallow glutamate; amino acids; N-acylamino acids or salts thereof; lecithin, isopropyl trisostearyltitanate (or alternatively called ITT), and mixtures thereof.
• fatty acids such as stearic acid
• metal soaps such as aluminium dimyristate and the aluminium salt of hydrogenated tallow glutamate
• amino acids such as N-acylamino acids or salts thereof
• lecithin isopropyl trisostearyltitanate (or alternatively called ITT), and mixtures thereof.
• the N-acylamino acids may comprise an acyl group having from 8 to 22 carbon atoms, such as, for example, a 2-ethylhexanoyl, caproyl, lauroyl, myristoyl, palmitoyl, stearoyl or cocoyl group.
• the salts of these compounds may be the aluminium, magnesium, calcium, zirconium, zinc, sodium or potassium salts.
• the amino acid may be, for example, lysine, glutamic acid or alanine.
• the fatty acids in the present invention are more particularly acids with hydrocarbon chains having from 1 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably having from 5 to 18 carbon atoms.
• the hydrocarbon chain may be saturated, monounsaturated or polyunsaturated.
• pigments coated with fatty acids include those containing the disodium stearoylglutamate/aluminium hydroxide pairing, these being sold in particular under the trade name NAI-TAO-77891 , NAI-C33-8073-10, NAI-C33-8075, NAI-C47-051-10, NAI-C33-1 15, NAI- C33-134, NAI-C33-8001-10, NAI-C33-7001-10, NAI-C33-9001-10 from the company Miyoshi Kasei.
• pigments treated with isopropyltitanium triisostearate include those sold under the trade name BWBO-12 (Iron oxide CI77499 and isopropyl titanium triisostearate), BWYO-12 (Iron oxide CI77492 and isopropyl titanium triisostearate) and BWRO-12 (Iron oxide CI77491 and isopropyl titanium triisostearate) by the company Kobo.
• pigments coated with disodium stearoylglutamate/aluminium hydroxide are used in the present invention.
• a composition of the invention may comprise at least one pigment in a content ranging from 0.5% to 30% by weight, especially from 1 % to 20% and more particularly from 2% to 15% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
• composition according to the invention may comprise at least one thickener chosen from hydrophilic thickeners, lipophilic thickeners, or a mixture thereof.
• hydrophilic thickener is intended to mean a compound capable of increasing the viscosity of the aqueous phase of the composition.
• hydrophilic thickeners may be used alone or in combination. These thickeners may in particular be chosen from cellulosic polymers and gums.
• hydrophilic thickeners mention may in particular be made of water-soluble or water- dispersible thickening polymers. They may in particular be chosen from: polyvinylpyrrolidone, polyvinyl alcohol, modified or unmodified carboxyvinyl polymers, such as the products sold under the name Carbopol ® (CTFA name: carbomer) by the company Goodrich; - homopolymers or copolymers of acrylic acid or methacrylic acid or salts thereof and esters thereof, and in particular the products sold under the names Versicol F ® or Versicol K ® or Salcare SC95 by the company Allied Colloid, Ultrahold 8 ® by the company Ciba-Geigy, polyacrylates and polymethacrylates, such as the products sold under the names Lubrajel and Norgel by the company Guardian or under the name Hispagel by the company Hispano Chimica, polyacrylic acids of Synthalen K type; polyacrylamides;
• copolymers of acrylic acid and of acrylamide sold in the form of their sodium salt under the names Reten ® by the company Hercules, poly(sodium methacrylate) sold under the name Darvan N°7 ® by the company Vanderbilt, the sodium salts of polyhydroxycarboxylic acids sold under the name Hydagen F ® by the company Henkel;
• 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid polymers and copolymers which are optionally crosslinked and/or neutralized, for instance the poly(2-acrylamido-2- methylpropanesulfonic acid) sold by the company Clariant under the name Hostacerin AMPS (CTFA name: ammonium polyacryldimethyltauramide); crosslinked anionic acrylamide/AMPS copolymers, in the form of a W/O emulsion, such as those sold under the name Sepigel 305 (CTFA name: Polyacrylamide/C13- 14 lsoparaffin/Laureth-7) and under the name Simulgel 600 (CTFA name: Acrylamide/Sodium acryloyldimethyltaurate copolymer/lsohexadecane/Polysorbate 80) by the company SEPPIC;
• CTFA name ammonium polyacryldimethyltauramide
• crosslinked anionic acrylamide/AMPS copolymers in the form of a W/
• polysaccharide biopolymers for instance xanthan gum, guar gum, gum Arabic, locus bean gum, acacia gum, scleroglucans, chitin derivatives and chitosan derivatives, carrageenans, gellans, alginates, or celluloses such as microcrystalline cellulose, carboxymethylcellulose, hydroxymethylcellulose, hydroxyethylcellulose and hydroxypropylcellulose.
• Mentions maybe made of, for example, xanthan gum sold under the trade name Keltrol ® CG-T by the company CP Kelco;
• hydrophilic fumed silicas obtained by high-temperature hydrolysis of a volatile silicon compound in an oxyhydrogen flame, producing a finely divided silica.
• the hydrophilic silicas have a large number of silanol groups at their surface.
• Such hydrophilic silicas are, for example, sold under the names Aerosil 130 ® , Aerosil 200 ® , Aerosil 255 ® , Aerosil 300 ® and Aerosil 380 ® by the company Degussa, or Cab-O-Sil HS-5 ® , Cab-O-Sil EH-5 ® , Cab-O-Sil LM- 130 ® , Cab-O-Sil MS-55 ® and Cab-O-Sil M-5 ® by the company Cabot. They preferably have a particle size that can be nanometric to micrometric, for example ranging from about 5 to 200 nm;
• Lipophilic thickeners The term "lipophilic thickener" is intended to mean a compound capable of increasing the viscosity of the fatty phase of the composition.
• the lipophilic thickener is chosen from mineral lipophilic thickeners.
• lipophilic clays for instance optionally modified clays, such as hectorites modified with a Ci 0 to C 2 2 ammonium chloride, for instance hectorite modified with distearyldimethylammonium chloride.
• Clays are silicates containing a cation which can be chosen from calcium, magnesium, aluminum, sodium, potassium and lithium cations, and mixtures thereof.
• a cation which can be chosen from calcium, magnesium, aluminum, sodium, potassium and lithium cations, and mixtures thereof.
• the clay may be chosen from montmorrillonite, bentonite, hectorite, attapulgite and sepiolite, and mixtures thereof.
• the clay is preferably a bentonite or a hectorite.
• Organophilic clays are clays modified with a chemical compound chosen from quaternary amines, tertiary amines, amine acetates, imidazolines, amine soaps, fatty sulfates, alkyl aryl sulfonates and amine oxides, and mixtures thereof.
• organophilic clays mention may be made of quaternium-18 bentonites such as those sold under the names Bentone 3, Bentone 38 and Bentone 38V by the company Elementis, Tixogel VP by the company United Catalyst, Claytone 34, Claytone 40 and Claytone XL by the company Southern Clay; stearalkonium bentonites such as those sold under the names Bentone 27V by the company Elementis, Tixogel LG by the company United Catalyst, and Claytone AF and Claytone APA by the company Southern Clay; quaternium-18/benzalkonium bentonites such as those sold under the names Claytone HT and Claytone PS by the company Southern Clay, disteardimonium hectorite such as those sold under the name Bentone 38 VCG by the company ELEMENTIS, and a mixturethereof.
• Bentone 3 Bentone 38 and Bentone 38V by the company Elementis
• Tixogel VP by the company United Catalyst
• Claytone 34 Claytone 34
• the lipophilic thickener is chosen from organophilic modified clays, such as disteardimonium hectorite. Mention may also be made of hydrophobic silicas, for instance fumed silica optionally subjected to a hydrophobic surface treatment, the particle size of which is less than 1 pm. It is in fact possible to chemically modify the surface of the silica, by chemical reaction generating a reduced number of silanol groups present at the surface of the silica. It is in particular possible to substitute silanol groups with hydrophobic groups: a hydrophobic silica is then obtained.
• the hydrophobic groups may be:
• silica - trimethylsiloxyl groups, which are in particular obtained by treatment of fumed silica in the presence of hexamethyldisilazane.
• Silicas thus treated are known as "silica silylate” according to the CTFA (6th edition, 1995). They are sold, for example, under the references Aerosil R812 ® by the company Degussa, and Cab-O-Sil TS-530 ® by the company Cabot; - dimethylsilyloxyl or polydimethylsiloxane groups, which are obtained in particular by a treatment of fumed silica in the presence of polydimethylsiloxane or of dimethyldichlorosilane.
• Silicas thus treated are known as "silica dimethyl silylate" according to the CTFA (6th edition, 1995). They are, for example, sold under the references Aerosil R972 ® and Aerosil R974 ® by the company Degussa, and Cab-O-Sil TS-610 ® and Cab-O-Sil TS-720 ® by the company Cabot.
• the hydrophobic fumed silica preferably has a particle size that may be nanometric to micrometric, for example ranging from about 5 to 200 nm.
• the thickener if present is chosen from xanthan gum, disteardimonium hectorite, silica silylate, or a mixture thereof, more preferably, the thickener is disteardimonium hectorite.
• the at least one thickener may be present in the composition according to the invention from 0 to 20% by weight, preferably in a content ranging from 0.01 % to 10% by weight and preferentially ranging from 0.5% to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
• composition of the present invention further comprises at least one additional surfactant, which is different from the surfactants aforementioned.
• the additional surfactant has a HLB value of greater than or equal to 8, according to Griffin's method, at the temperature of 25 °C.
• HLB value according to GRIFFIN is defined in J. Ploughshare. Cosm. Chem. 1954 (volume 5), pages 249-256.
• the third surfactant has a HLB value between 8 and 20 according to Griffin's method, at the temperature of 25 °C, more preferably between 10 and 15 according to Griffin's method, at the temperature of 25 °C.
• the third surfactant is chosen from non-ionic surfactants, anionic surfactants, amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactant, or a mixture thereof.
• Non-ionic surfactants that are suitable to the present composition may be chosen from: polyoxyethylenated sorbitol fatty esters such as the product sold under the name TWEEN 20 by ICI; polyoxyethylenated fatty alcohols such as the product sold under the name REMCOPAL 21912 AL by Gerland; polyoxyethylenated alkylphenols such as the product sold under the name TRITON X 100 by Rohm-Haas; and - condensates of ethylene oxide and of propylene oxide such as those sold under the names SYNPERONIC PE by ICI and in particular those referenced L 31 , L 64, F 38, F 88, L 92, P 103, F 108 and F 127; esters of fatty acids and glycerol or polyglycerol, preferably esters of C 6 -C 30 , more preferably C 8 -Ci 6 , fatty acids, saturated or unsaturated, and glycerol or polygly
• Mentions may be made of for example glyceryl stearate, glyceryl isostearate, polyglyceryl-3 diisostearate, PEG-100 stearate, glyceryl caprylate, polyglyceryl 1 -4 caprate, or a mixture thereof.
• Such products are available on the market, for example, a mixture of glyceryl stearate and PEG-100 stearate is available under the tradename Simulsol TM 165 sold by the company Seppic, or such as the product polyglyceryl 1 -4 caprate sold under the tradename Tegosoft ® PC 41 by the company Evonik Goldshmidt.
• decyl glucoside Alkyl-Cg/Cn-polyglucoside (1.4)
• decyl glucoside such as the product sold under the name Plantacare ® 2000 UP by Cogins (BASF), products sold under the name MYDOL 10 ® by Kao Chemicals, the product sold under the name PLANTAREN ® 2000 UP by Cognis, and the product sold under the name ORAMIX ® NS 10 by Seppic
• caprylyl/capryl glucoside such as the product sold under the name ORAMIX ® CG 1 10 by Seppic
• laurylglucoside such as the products sold under the names PLANTAREN ® 1200 N and PLANTACARE ® 1200 by Cognis
• cocoglucoside such as the product sold under the name PLANTACARE ® 818/UP by Cognis, cetostearylglucoside optionally as a mixture with cetostearyl alcohol sold, for example, under the name MONTANOV 68 by Sep
• alkyl sulphates of: alkyl sulphates, alkyl ether sulphates and their salts, in particular their sodium salts, such as the Sodium Laureth Sulphate/Magnesium Laureth Sulphate/ Sodium Laureth-8 Sulphate/Magnesium Laureth-8 Sulphate mixture sold under the name TEXAPON ASV by Henkel; sodium lauryl ether sulphate (C 12 -14 70/30) (2.2 EO), sold under the names SIPON AOS 225 or TEXAPON ® N702 PASTE by Henkel; ammonium lauryl ether sulphate (C 12 -1470/30) (3 EO) sold under the name SIPON LEA 370 by Henkel; ammonium alkyl (C12-C14) ether (9 EO) sulphate, sold under the name RHODAPEX ® AB/20 by Rhodia Chimie; alkyl sulphoacetates, such
• amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants of: alkylamido alkylamine derivatives, such as N-disodium N-cocoyl-N- carboxymethoxyethyl-N-(carboxymethyl)ethylenediamine (CTFA name: Disodium cocoamphodiacetate), sold as a saline aqueous solution under the name MIRANOL C2M CONC NP by Rhodia Chimie; N-sodium N-cocoyl-N-hydroxyethyl-N-(carboxymethyl)ethylene- diamine (CTFA name: sodium cocoamphoacetate) and the mixture of coconut acid ethanolamides (CTFA name: Cocamide DEA); betaines, such as, for example, coco betaine, such as the product sold under the name DEHYTON ® AB-30 by Henkel, lauryl betaine, such as the product sold under the name GENAGEN ® KB by Clariant, oxyethyl
• the third surfactant is chosen from esters of fatty acids and glycerol or polyglycerol, alkylpholyglucosides, or a mixture thereof.
• the third surfactant is chosen from esters of fatty acides and glycerol or polyglycerol of C 6 -C 30 , more preferably C 6 -Ci 6 , fatty acids, saturated or unsaturated, and glycerol or polyglycerol, alkylpolyglucosides containing an alkyl group comprising from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably from 8 to 16 carbon atoms, and containing a hydrophilic group (glycoside) preferably comprising 1.2 to 3 sugar units, or a mixture thereof.
• the third surfactant of the present invention is chosen from glyceryl stearate, PEG-100 stearate, polyglyceryl-4 caprate, decyl glucoside, or a mixture thereof.
• the at least one third surfactant is present in the composition of the present invention from 0.1 % to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.5% to 10% by weight, more preferably from 1 % to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
• composition according to the invention may be in various forms, in particular in the form of dispersion or emulsion, especially such as a water/oil or oil/water emulsion or multiple emulsions.
• Dispersion may be made as an aqueous phase or as an oily phase.
• An emulsion may have an oily or aqueous continuous phase.
• Such an emulsion may be, for example, an inverse (W/O) emulsion or a direct (O/W) emulsion, or alternatively a multiple emulsion (W/O/W or ⁇ /V/O).
• emulsions In the case of emulsions, a multiple emulsion, especially oil-in-water-in-oil emulsion is preferred.
• the composition is prepared following the steps of: 1 ) adding at least one third surfactant and at least one UV filter as defined in the present invention to water, mixing until homogeneous under room temperature (25 ° C ), obtaining a phase B;
• emulsion 1 which is a oil-in-water emulsion
• surfactants chosen from the group consisting of: i) C 8 -C 2 2 alkyl dimethicone copolyols;
• step 4 adding the emulsion 1 obtained in step 2) to the fatty phase A obtained in step 3), homogenizing the mixture by stirring, to form a oil-in-water-in-oil emulsion.
• a cosmetic composition according to the invention further comprises at least one compound chosen from hydrophilic solvents, lipophilic solvents, additional oils, and mixtures thereof.
• a cosmetic composition according to the invention may also comprise any additive usually used in the field under consideration, chosen, for example, from gums, resins, additional thickening agents, structuring agents such as waxes, dispersants, antioxidants, essential oils, preserving agents, fragrances, neutralizers, antiseptics, additional UV-screening agents, cosmetic active agents, such as vitamins, moisturizers, emollients or collagen-protecting agents, and mixtures thereof.
• composition of the present invention can be used for a non-therapeutic process, such as a process for caring for/making up the skin, in particular the face, comprising the application to the skin of the composition according to the present invention.
• the present invention also relates to a use of the composition according to the present invention, as it is or in cosmetic product for making up/caring for/cleansing/make up removing products for the skin, especially for the face and the lips.
• compositions as listed above were prepared following the steps of:
• phase B 1
• fatty phase A2 1
• emulsion 1 which is a 0 2 /W emulsion
• phase A1 3) mixing the ingredients in phase A1 to I homogeneous under room temperature (25 ° C ), obtaining fatty phase A;
• step 4 adding the emulsion 1 obtained in step 2) to the fatty phase A obtained in step 3), homogenizing the mixture by stirring.
• UVAPPD SPF UVAPPD sun protection factor
• the water washability effects of the formulas were performed by means of Chromasphere with a definition of 410x410 pixels, according to the following protocol: the measurements were taken in a standardized manner at 20°C, before and after application with the bare fingers, washing with lukewarm water after application (for water washability effect evaluation), of the composition onto the skin of a model. ⁇ Protocol for instrumental measurements of the water washability effect
• a colorimetric measurement of the skin before and after making up was carried out by measuring the means for the planes of 10 women models, C * (chroma, the distance out from the neutral axis - saturationv), H * (hue, the angle/direction in the 360 degree range), and L * (lightness), respectively.
• C * chroma
• H * chroma
• H * chroma
• H * the angle/direction in the 360 degree range
• L * lightness
• deltaE 94 The homogeneity and long lasting were calculated by the variation of these variables after 3 hours of makeup.
• the deltaE, dE or else ⁇ 94 is defined as a measurement of difference between two colors.
• the formula was published in 1995 by a technical committee of the CIE (TC 1 -29), as shown below:
• K L , Ki and K 2 are weighting factors
• Li * , Ci * and Hi * are the coordinates in the colorimetric space of the first color to be compared and l_2*, C 2 * and H 2 * those of the second.
• the measurements were performed on a panel of 10 women models who were kept in an air- conditioned (22°C +/- 2°C) waiting room for 15 min before the beginning of the test. They removed their makeup and an image of one of their cheeks was acquired using the Chromasphere with a definition of 410 ⁇ 410 pixels. This image made it possible to measure the color at T 0 before applying makeup. Approximately 10 mg of the invention compositions 1 and 2, and the comparative compositions 1 , 2, and 3 were then weighed out into a watch glass and were applied with the bare fingers, respectively, to the face skin of a 12.56 cm 2 area on which the T 0 measurement was carried out. After a drying time of 10 min, an image of the made-up cheek area was acquired using the Chromasphere.
• the inventors discovered that the composition according to the present invention overcomes the technical issues existing in the prior art, and provides a stable cosmetic composition with optimized water washability effect, and meanwhile maintaining good UV screening effect.

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  • 2014-06-30 WO PCT/CN2014/081212 patent/WO2016000145A1/en active Application Filing
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