WO2015091200A1 - Procédé pour réaliser des ouvertures ou des trous dans un tricot à mailles cueillies avec une tricoteuse pour tricot intersia en utilisant une seule avance ou montée - Google Patents

Procédé pour réaliser des ouvertures ou des trous dans un tricot à mailles cueillies avec une tricoteuse pour tricot intersia en utilisant une seule avance ou montée Download PDF

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Publication number
WO2015091200A1
WO2015091200A1 PCT/EP2014/077364 EP2014077364W WO2015091200A1 WO 2015091200 A1 WO2015091200 A1 WO 2015091200A1 EP 2014077364 W EP2014077364 W EP 2014077364W WO 2015091200 A1 WO2015091200 A1 WO 2015091200A1
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WO
WIPO (PCT)
Prior art keywords
knitting
needles
feed
sector
motion
Prior art date
Application number
PCT/EP2014/077364
Other languages
English (en)
Inventor
Ettore Lonati
Fausto Lonati
Original Assignee
Santoni S.P.A.
Priority date (The priority date is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the date listed.)
Filing date
Publication date
Application filed by Santoni S.P.A. filed Critical Santoni S.P.A.
Publication of WO2015091200A1 publication Critical patent/WO2015091200A1/fr

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Classifications

    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D04—BRAIDING; LACE-MAKING; KNITTING; TRIMMINGS; NON-WOVEN FABRICS
    • D04B—KNITTING
    • D04B1/00—Weft knitting processes for the production of fabrics or articles not dependent on the use of particular machines; Fabrics or articles defined by such processes
    • D04B1/10—Patterned fabrics or articles
    • D04B1/102—Patterned fabrics or articles with stitch pattern
    • D04B1/104—Openwork fabric, e.g. pelerine fabrics

Definitions

  • the present invention relates to a method for providing openings or holes in a weft knitted fabric with a knitting machine for intarsia knitting, using a single feed or drop.
  • intarsia knitting means a form of knitting composed of regions of knitted fabric made with yarns dispensed by different feeds or drops of the machine and alternated with each other, which does not have yarns hanging on the reverse side, and that is to say yarns for connection between the portions of a same row of knitting which are mutually spaced and produced with a yarn thereof, and which does not have yarn cuts at the ends of each portion of row that makes up a region of the knitting.
  • Intarsia knitting is executed with rectilinear knitting machines or with circular knitting or hosiery machines which offer the ability to move the feeds or drops, at which the yarns are dispensed, with respect to the needle holder, whether it is constituted by a rectilinear knitting bed or by a cylinder, or vice versa and that is to say they offer the ability to move the needle holder with respect to the feeds or drops, along two mutually opposite directions of motion and that is to say with a forward motion and with a return motion.
  • intarsia knitting is executed, in the production of each row of knitting that makes up intarsia knitting, by correlating the needles arranged in a sector of the needle holder to a feed and making them work, and by correlating the needles arranged in another sector of the needle holder, adjacent or contiguous, to another feed and making them work.
  • the number of feeds, and of sectors of the needle holder which are correlated to these, is variable depending on the number of mutually different regions of the knitting to be produced, and the number of needles of each sector of the needle holder can be varied from row to row in order to vary the shape structure of the different regions of intarsia knitting to be produced.
  • the alternating motion of the needle holder with respect to the feeds of the machine is the contrivance that makes it possible to knit portions of rows of knitting with yarns dispensed by different feeds without having to proceed with cutting of yarns at the end of the corresponding portion of row of knitting, or having to leave hanging, on the reverse side, the yarns that are not used in the knitting of a subsequent portion of row of knitting and which are waiting to be used again for the formation of a further portion of row of knitting.
  • the join between two adjacent regions of knitting, which are knitted with yarns dispensed at two different feeds, is obtained by making a needle work which is located at the border between the two sectors and belonging to one or the other of these sectors, both at the feed correlated to its set of needles and at the feed correlated to the adjacent or contiguous set of needles.
  • intarsia knitting is used in order to produce designs that are made up of regions of knitted fabric knitted with yarns of different color or type, which are dispensed at different feeds.
  • Intarsia knitting is also used when there is a need to make an opening or hole in a portion of knitting.
  • the procedure is to make two regions of knitted fabric, which are located laterally and on mutually opposite sides with respect to the opening to be made, using the needles arranged in two adjacent or contiguous sectors of the needle holder and making the needles of one sector work exclusively at one feed and the needles of the other sector exclusively at another feed, and thus without bringing a needle which is located in the region of a sector bordering with the other sector to work at both feeds.
  • the two regions of knitting are "separated" i.e. not joined and thus the opening or hole is defined between them.
  • this technique requires the use of two feeds or drops of the machine.
  • the aim of the present invention is to devise a method that makes it possible to make openings or holes in a weft knitted fabric with a knitting machine by way of intarsia knitting, using a single feed or drop of the machine.
  • an object of the invention is to provide a method that makes it possible to produce knitwear at low cost.
  • Another object of the invention is to provide a method that can be executed on knitting machines that are available on the market.
  • said needle holder having a weft knitting machine with at least one feed or drop and with a needle holder that supports a plurality of needles that can be actuated to pick up the yarns delivered by said feed and to form knitting;
  • said needle holder being movable with respect to said feed along a trajectory and said feed being arranged proximate to said trajectory;
  • said needle holder being actuatable with respect to said feed along said trajectory with an alternating motion, i.e., along two mutually opposite directions of motion, respectively a forward motion and a return motion, in order to move the needles so that they face in succession toward said feed and they form knitting both in the forward motion and in the return motion of said needle holder with respect to said feed;
  • Figure 1 shows the knitting pattern of a portion of fabric, seen from the reverse side, produced with the method according to the invention
  • Figure 2 shows an enlarged detail of a portion of fabric, seen from the reverse side, produced with the method according to the invention and deriving from the steps of the area of knitting indicated by the box X in the pattern in Figure 1 ;
  • Figure 3 schematically illustrates the arrangement of the sectors of needles and of the feed or drop used for the execution of the method according to the invention on a circular knitting machine;
  • Figure 4 shows the knitting pattern of a portion of fabric, seen from the reverse side, produced with a variation of the method according to the invention
  • Figure 5 shows an enlarged detail of a portion of fabric, seen from the reverse side, produced with the method according to the invention and deriving from the steps of the area of knitting indicated by the box Y in the pattern in Figure 4.
  • a weft knitting machine is used with at least one feed or drop and with a needle holder that supports a plurality of needles that can be actuated, in a way that is known per se, to pick up the yarns dispensed by this feed and to form knitting.
  • the needle holder is movable with respect to the feed along a trajectory and such feed is arranged proximate to this trajectory.
  • the needle holder is actuatable with respect to the feed, along the aforesaid trajectory, with an alternating motion and that is to say along two mutually opposite directions of motion, respectively a forward motion and a return motion, so as to move the needles so that they face toward the aforesaid feed and they form knitting both in the forward motion and in the return motion of the needle holder with respect to the feed.
  • two contiguous or adjacent sectors are preselected, respectively a first sector and a second sector, and each one of these sectors accommodates corresponding needles that can be actuated at the feed to form knitting.
  • the machine is constituted by a circular knitting machine and thus the needle holder is constituted by the needle cylinder 1 of the machine which is arranged with its axis 2 vertically and which can be actuated with a rotary motion about its own axis 2 with respect to the feeds or drops 3, 4, 5, 6 of which only one, designated with the reference numeral 3, is used for the execution of the method according to the invention.
  • the needle holder which is constituted by the needle cylinder 1, traces a circular trajectory about its own axis 2 and the feed 3 faces laterally toward the needle cylinder 1 and is arranged proximate to the trajectory traced by the needle cylinder 1 during its rotation so as to dispense the yarn to the needles, which are arranged in the needle cylinder 1 and are moved to knit at such feed 3 and are actuated to form knitting.
  • the needle cylinder 1 can be actuated, in a way that is known per se, with an alternating rotary motion about its own axis 2 so as to form knitting both in the forward motion and in the return motion, as is required in intarsia knitting.
  • the sectors 11 and 12 in which the needles preselected to knit at the feed 3 are arranged are circular sectors.
  • Figure 3 also shows a third sector 13 of the needle cylinder 1 which accommodates needles that are not used for the execution of the method according to the invention.
  • the method according to the invention comprises a first step A, in which the needles of the first sector 11 and the needles of the second sector 12 are moved to knit at the feed 3 and they form knitting.
  • a second step B is executed, in which only the needles of the first sector 11 are moved to knit at the feed 3 and they form knitting for a preset number of rows of knitting which are formed by actuating the needle cylinder 1 with an alternating rotary motion about its own axis 2 with respect to the feed 3, while the needles of the second sector 12 are kept inactive and retain the last loop of knitting formed in the first step A.
  • a third step C only the needles of the second sector 12 are moved to knit at the feed 3 and they form knitting, for a preset number of rows of knitting which are formed by actuating the needle cylinder 1 with an alternating rotary motion about its own axis 2 with respect to the feed 3, while the needles of the first sector 11 are kept inactive and retain the last loop of knitting formed in the second step B.
  • a fourth step D the needles of the first sector 11 and the needles of the second sector 12 are moved to knit at the feed 3 and they form knitting.
  • the rectangle 21 refers to the first step A of the knitting in which, at the feed 3, the needles arranged in the first sector 11 and the needles arranged in the second sector 12 both knit.
  • the needle cylinder 1 can be actuated with a continuous rotary motion or with an alternating rotary motion about its own axis 2 with respect to the feed 3.
  • the rectangles designated with the reference numerals 22 and 23 indicate two different actuations of the needles arranged in the sectors 11 and 12 in the second step B of the method: the rectangle 22 indicates that the needles arranged in the first sector 11 , in this second step B, are moved to knit at the feed 3 and they form knitting for a preset number of rows of knitting following the actuation of the needle cylinder 1 with an alternating motion about its own axis 2 with respect to the same feed 3, while the rectangle 23 indicates that the needles arranged in the second sector 12, in this second step B, are not moved to knit and they retain the last loop of knitting, formed during the first step A, on their shank while waiting to resume knitting.
  • the rectangles designated with the reference numerals 24 and 25 indicate two different actuations of the needles arranged in the sectors 11 and 12 in the third step C of the method: the rectangle 24 indicates that the needles arranged in the first sector 11 , in this third step C, are not moved to knit and they retain the last loop of knitting, formed during the second step B, on their shank while waiting to resume knitting, while the rectangle 25 indicates that the needles arranged in the second sector 12, in this third step C, are moved to knit at the feed 3 and they form knitting for a preset number of rows of knitting following the actuation of the needle cylinder 1 with an alternating motion about its own axis 2 with respect to the same feed 3.
  • the rectangle 26 refers to the fourth step D of the method in which the needles arranged in the first sector 11 and the needles arranged in the second sector 12 both knit at the feed 3.
  • the needle cylinder 1 can be actuated with a continuous rotary motion or with an alternating rotary motion about its own axis 2 with respect to the feed 3.
  • rectangles designated with the reference numerals 27 and 28 refer to the optional production of knitting with needles that are arranged in other sectors of the needle cylinder 1 and that is to say needles that are arranged in the sector 13 and are not arranged in the sectors 11 and 12 and which are therefore not pertinent for the purposes of explaining the method according to the invention.
  • Figure 2 in which the knitting structure seen from the reverse side has the rows of loops of knitting designated with the reference numerals from 31 to 40, while, turning to the rows of knitting, the rows of knitting formed by needles belonging to the two different sectors 11 and 12 and knitted in two separate steps of the method are designated differently.
  • the row of knitting that is made up of the portions of row m and m' which are knitted by the needles belonging to the two sectors 11 and 12 is the last row of knitting produced during the first step A (this moment of knitting corresponds to the rectangle 21 in Figure 1).
  • the rows of knitting n-t are the ones that are formed by the needles of the first sector 11 during the second step B (this moment of knitting corresponds to the rectangle 22 in Figure 1) while the needles of the second sector 12 retain the loops of the last portion of row of knitting m' that were formed during the first step A (this moment of knitting corresponds to the rectangle 23 in Figure 1).
  • the rows of knitting n'-t' are the ones that are formed by the needles of the second sector 12 during the third step C (this moment of knitting corresponds to the rectangle 25 in Figure 1) while the needles of the first sector 11 retain the loops of the last row of knitting t that were formed during the second step B (this moment of knitting corresponds to the rectangle 24 in Figure 1).
  • the row of knitting that is made up of the portions of row u and u' which are knitted by the needles belonging to the two sectors 11 and 12 is the first row of knitting produced during the fourth step D, respectively by the needles of the first sector 11 which resume knitting at the feed 3 and by the needles of the second sector 12 which continue knitting (this moment of knitting corresponds to the rectangle 26 in Figure
  • rows n-t and n'-t' are not portions of rows, but are rows that are separate from each other in that they are executed in successive steps.
  • the rectangles 23 and 24 in Figure 1 corresponding respectively to a moment of the second step B and to a moment of the third step C, do not correspond to portions of rows of knitting, in that at such moments, respectively the needles of the second sector 12 and the needles of the first sector 11 are not knitting, but instead simply retain, on their shank, the last loops of knitting that were formed during the previous step.
  • an opening or hole 50 is defined between the portions of rows of knitting n-t and n'-t', and is obtained using a single feed or drop 3.
  • the knitted fabric that is obtained with the method according to the invention has two adjacent regions of knitting 61, 62 which are separated by the opening or hole 50 and these two regions 61, 62, being produced using a single feed 3, can be made up of a same yarn 51 or of different yarns if, in the knitting of the rows t or n', a change of yarn guide is made, and consequently a different yarn in terms of type or color, at the same feed 3. If, at the feed 3 used, a plurality of yarns were fed simultaneously to the needles, then each loop of knitting of the two regions 61, 62 could be composed of a plurality of yarns.
  • Figures 4 and 5 show a variation of execution of the method according to the invention.
  • a step B' is executed in which a final knitting weave zi, z 2 is executed with the yarn 51 which, after the execution of this weave, is cut.
  • a step C is executed in which an initial knitting weave Wi, w 2 is executed with the yarn 51, as shown, or with another yarn that is also dispensed by the same feed 3.
  • the execution of the knitting weaves zi, z 2 , wi, w 2 makes it possible to stop or lock the final or initial end of the yarn or yarns 51 and to have the opening or hole 50 completely free from yarns.
  • the final knitting weave zi, z 2 is executed by actuating some needles of a set of contiguous needles 32-36 so as to pick up the yarn 51 in the tuck stitch position and form at least one portion of final knitting weave zi, z 2 , previously reversing the direction of motion of the needle holder, which in the case shown is constituted by the needle cylinder 1, so that this at least one portion of final knitting weave zi, z 2 overlaps the last loop of knitting just formed by the same needles 32-36.
  • two final knitting weaves are executed, respectively a first portion of final knitting weave zi and a second portion of final knitting weave z 2 , reversing the direction of motion of the needle cylinder 1 after the execution of the first final knitting weave zi and varying the needles that pick up the yarn in the tuck stitch position with respect to the needles that picked up the yarn for the execution of the first portion of final knitting weave zi.
  • the needles 36, 34, 32 of the group of needles 32-36 that are moved to knit at the feed 3 in the execution of the first portion of final knitting weave zi are alternated, according to a lxl selection, with the needles 35, 33 of the group of needles 32-36 that are excluded from knitting, which are instead moved to knit in the execution of the second portion of final knitting weave z 2 while the previous ones are excluded from knitting, but different arrangements or selections may be used, such as for example 1x2 or 1x3.
  • the squares 76, 74, 72 and 73, 75 in step B' indicate the needles 36, 34, 32 and 33, 35 which are moved to knit in order to pick up the yarn 51 in the tuck stitch position for the formation of the two portions of final knitting weave zi, z 2 .
  • the initial knitting weave wi, w 2 is executed preferably by actuating some needles of a group of contiguous needles 37- 41 so as to pick up the yarn 51 in the tuck stitch position and form at least one portion of initial knitting weave wi, w 2 , subsequently reversing the direction of motion of the needle cylinder 1 , so that this at least one portion of initial knitting weave wi, w 2 overlaps the last loop of knitting just formed by the same needles 37-41.
  • two initial knitting weaves are executed, respectively a first portion of initial knitting weave Wi and a second portion of initial knitting weave w 2 , reversing the direction of motion of the needle cylinder 1 after the execution of the first initial knitting weave Wi and varying the needles that pick up the yarn in the tuck stitch position with respect to the needles that picked up the yarn 51 for the execution of the first portion of initial knitting weave Wi .
  • the needles 37, 39, 41 of the group of needles are identical to the needles 37, 39, 41 of the group of needles.
  • the squares 77, 79, 81 and 80, 78 in step C indicate the needles 37, 39, 41 and 40, 38 which are moved to knit in order to pick up the yarn 51 in the tuck stitch position for the formation of the two portions of initial knitting weave Wi, w 2 .
  • the materials employed, as well as the dimensions, may be any according to requirements and to the state of the art.

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  • Engineering & Computer Science (AREA)
  • Textile Engineering (AREA)
  • Knitting Machines (AREA)
  • Treatment Of Fiber Materials (AREA)
  • Knitting Of Fabric (AREA)

Abstract

L'invention concerne un procédé pour réaliser des ouvertures ou des trous dans un tricot à mailles cueillies avec une tricoteuse pour tricot intersia en utilisant une seule avance ou montée, le procédé consistant à : - avoir une tricoteuse pour tricot intersia comprenant au moins une avance ou montée (3) et comprenant un porte-aiguilles (1) qui supporte une pluralité d'aiguilles qui peuvent être actionnées pour prélever les fils délivrés par ladite avance (3) et pour former le tricot ; le porte-aiguilles (1) étant mobile par rapport à l'avance (3) le long d'une trajectoire et l'avance (3) étant disposée à proximité de cette trajectoire ; le porte-aiguilles (1) pouvant être actionné par rapport à l'avance (3) le long de ladite trajectoire avec un mouvement alterné, c'est-à-dire le long de deux directions de mouvement mutuellement opposées, respectivement un mouvement vers l'avant et un mouvement de retour, afin de déplacer les aiguilles de telle sorte qu'elles fassent successivement face à l'avance (3) et qu'elles forment le tricot à la fois lors du mouvement vers l'avant et du mouvement de retour du porte-aiguilles (1) par rapport à l'avance (3) ; - identification, dans le porte-aiguilles (1), de deux secteurs contigus ou adjacents (11, 12), respectivement un premier secteur (11) et un deuxième secteur (12), accueillant chacun des aiguilles correspondantes qui peuvent être actionnées au niveau de l'avance (3) afin de former le tricot, le procédé ayant la particularité de comprendre : - une première étape (A), dans laquelle les aiguilles du premier secteur (11) et les aiguilles du deuxième secteur (12) sont déplacées pour tricoter au niveau de l'avance (3) et forment le tricot ; - une deuxième étape (B), dans laquelle seules les aiguilles du premier secteur (11) sont déplacées pour tricoter au niveau de l'avance (3) et forment le tricot pour un nombre prédéfini de lignes de tricot (n-t) qui sont formées en actionnant le porte-aiguilles (1) avec un mouvement alterné par rapport à l'avance (3), pendant que les aiguilles du deuxième secteur (12) sont maintenues inactives et retiennent la dernière boucle de tricot formée pendant la première étape (A) ; - une troisième étape (C), dans laquelle seules les aiguilles du deuxième secteur (12) sont déplacées pour tricoter au niveau de l'avance (3) et forment le tricot pour un nombre prédéfini de lignes de tricot (n'-t') qui sont formées en actionnant le porte-aiguilles (1) avec un mouvement alterné par rapport à l'avance (3), pendant que les aiguilles du premier secteur (11) sont maintenues inactives et retiennent la dernière boucle de tricot formée pendant la deuxième étape (B) ; - une quatrième étape (D), dans laquelle les aiguilles du premier secteur (11) et les aiguilles du deuxième secteur (12) sont déplacées pour tricoter au niveau de l'avance (3) et forment le tricot.
PCT/EP2014/077364 2013-12-19 2014-12-11 Procédé pour réaliser des ouvertures ou des trous dans un tricot à mailles cueillies avec une tricoteuse pour tricot intersia en utilisant une seule avance ou montée WO2015091200A1 (fr)

Applications Claiming Priority (2)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
ITMI2013A002130 2013-12-19
IT002130A ITMI20132130A1 (it) 2013-12-19 2013-12-19 Procedimento per la realizzazione di aperture o buchi in un tessuto a maglia in trama con una macchina per maglieria per lavorazioni ad intarsio, utilizzando una sola alimentazione o caduta.

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WO2015091200A1 true WO2015091200A1 (fr) 2015-06-25

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PCT/EP2014/077364 WO2015091200A1 (fr) 2013-12-19 2014-12-11 Procédé pour réaliser des ouvertures ou des trous dans un tricot à mailles cueillies avec une tricoteuse pour tricot intersia en utilisant une seule avance ou montée

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IT (1) ITMI20132130A1 (fr)
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Cited By (3)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
WO2017192830A1 (fr) * 2016-05-05 2017-11-09 Nike Innovate C.V. Article d'habillement tricoté circulaire muni d'ouvertures et ses procédés de fabrication
IT201900000697A1 (it) * 2019-01-16 2020-07-16 Jvc Holding Srl Procedimento per la realizzazione di una tomaia traforata per scarpe
CN113403735A (zh) * 2021-05-20 2021-09-17 惠州南旋毛织厂有限公司 一种具有360度织向的鞋面织造方法

Citations (3)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
GB1395030A (en) * 1971-08-18 1975-05-21 Billi Spa Manufacture of panti-hose
US4034578A (en) * 1973-07-02 1977-07-12 Billi, S.P.A. Tights
US20090100877A1 (en) * 2007-10-23 2009-04-23 Okamoto Corporation Sock

Patent Citations (3)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
GB1395030A (en) * 1971-08-18 1975-05-21 Billi Spa Manufacture of panti-hose
US4034578A (en) * 1973-07-02 1977-07-12 Billi, S.P.A. Tights
US20090100877A1 (en) * 2007-10-23 2009-04-23 Okamoto Corporation Sock

Cited By (9)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
WO2017192830A1 (fr) * 2016-05-05 2017-11-09 Nike Innovate C.V. Article d'habillement tricoté circulaire muni d'ouvertures et ses procédés de fabrication
US20170332703A1 (en) * 2016-05-05 2017-11-23 Nike, Inc. Circular knitted garment with apertures
CN109154114A (zh) * 2016-05-05 2019-01-04 耐克创新有限合伙公司 具有孔的圆型针织服装物品及其制造方法
US10519577B2 (en) 2016-05-05 2019-12-31 Nike, Inc. Circular knitted garment with apertures
US11447898B2 (en) 2016-05-05 2022-09-20 Nike, Inc. Circular knitted garment with apertures
IT201900000697A1 (it) * 2019-01-16 2020-07-16 Jvc Holding Srl Procedimento per la realizzazione di una tomaia traforata per scarpe
WO2020148024A1 (fr) * 2019-01-16 2020-07-23 Jvc Holding Srl Procédé de frabication d'une tige perforée destinée aux chaussures
CN113301823A (zh) * 2019-01-16 2021-08-24 Jvc控股有限公司 用于制造鞋用穿孔鞋面的方法
CN113403735A (zh) * 2021-05-20 2021-09-17 惠州南旋毛织厂有限公司 一种具有360度织向的鞋面织造方法

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