WO2015090744A1 - Produit cosmétique nettoyant contenant un tensioactif anionique et de l'huile de ricin durcie - Google Patents

Produit cosmétique nettoyant contenant un tensioactif anionique et de l'huile de ricin durcie Download PDF

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Publication number
WO2015090744A1
WO2015090744A1 PCT/EP2014/074437 EP2014074437W WO2015090744A1 WO 2015090744 A1 WO2015090744 A1 WO 2015090744A1 EP 2014074437 W EP2014074437 W EP 2014074437W WO 2015090744 A1 WO2015090744 A1 WO 2015090744A1
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Prior art keywords
weight
sodium
isethionate
cosmetic
hair
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PCT/EP2014/074437
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German (de)
English (en)
Inventor
Thomas Schröder
Dirk Hentrich
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Henkel Ag & Co. Kgaa
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Publication of WO2015090744A1 publication Critical patent/WO2015090744A1/fr

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    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q5/00—Preparations for care of the hair
    • A61Q5/02—Preparations for cleaning the hair
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/33—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
    • A61K8/37—Esters of carboxylic acids
    • A61K8/375—Esters of carboxylic acids the alcohol moiety containing more than one hydroxy group
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/40—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing nitrogen
    • A61K8/41—Amines
    • A61K8/416—Quaternary ammonium compounds
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/46—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing sulfur
    • A61K8/466—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing sulfur containing sulfonic acid derivatives; Salts
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/84—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions otherwise than those involving only carbon-carbon unsaturated bonds
    • A61K8/89—Polysiloxanes
    • A61K8/896—Polysiloxanes containing atoms other than silicon, carbon, oxygen and hydrogen, e.g. dimethicone copolyol phosphate
    • A61K8/898—Polysiloxanes containing atoms other than silicon, carbon, oxygen and hydrogen, e.g. dimethicone copolyol phosphate containing nitrogen, e.g. amodimethicone, trimethyl silyl amodimethicone or dimethicone propyl PG-betaine
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/92—Oils, fats or waxes; Derivatives thereof, e.g. hydrogenation products thereof
    • A61K8/922—Oils, fats or waxes; Derivatives thereof, e.g. hydrogenation products thereof of vegetable origin
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q5/00—Preparations for care of the hair
    • A61Q5/12—Preparations containing hair conditioners
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K2800/00—Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
    • A61K2800/40—Chemical, physico-chemical or functional or structural properties of particular ingredients
    • A61K2800/42—Colour properties
    • A61K2800/43—Pigments; Dyes
    • A61K2800/436—Interference pigments, e.g. Iridescent, Pearlescent

Definitions

  • the invention is in the field of cosmetics and relates to a cosmetic cleaning agent which contains at least one anionic isethionate surfactant, at least one pearlescing agent, pigment and / or opacifier and hydrogenated castor oil.
  • the invention further relates to the use of hydrogenated castor oil for increasing the care properties of cosmetic cleaners containing at least one anionic isethionate surfactant and at least pearlescing, pigment and / or opacifier.
  • the invention relates to a cosmetic method for improving the hair grip and / or the combing of hair, in which a cosmetic cleaning agent containing an anionic isethionate surfactant, a pearlescing agent, pigment and / or opacifier and hardened castor oil applied to the hair and is rinsed out again after a contact time.
  • composition should be less complex and contain the lowest possible number of highly effective agents that optimally need not be stabilized by additional ingredients.
  • a milk-white, creamy appearance and a rich texture of cosmetic compositions are explicitly desired by many consumers, for example, because they associate optimal mildness and care.
  • compositions usually contain pearlescing agents, pigments and / or opacifiers, which usually have to be stabilized in the compositions by special active substances, such as, for example, fatty acids or special acrylic-based polymers. It would be desirable to have cosmetic compositions which have a milky-white, opaque or pearlescent appearance without having to be stabilized by specific active ingredients.
  • the cosmetic compositions should preferably be particularly mild hair cleansers, particularly preferably mild, sulfate-free hair cleansers. Ideally, the hair cleanser should also cause a significant care effect on the hair in addition to the attractive appearance.
  • the corresponding agents - especially mild formulations - have an opaque, milky white or pearlescent appearance, are particularly skin and hair compatible, nourish and cleanse the hair and improve in particular the combability and the handle of the treated hair.
  • the foam properties of the compositions could be improved.
  • opaque, milky white or pearlescent compositions is to be understood as meaning that the cosmetic agents at 25 ° C. preferably have a turbidity> 100 NTU (Nephelometry Turbidity Unit), more preferably> 150 NTU, more preferably> 200 NTU, and in particular> 250 NTU (measured for example with a device "2100P Turbidimeter” from Hach).
  • NTU Nephelometry Turbidity Unit
  • a first subject of the invention is therefore a cosmetic cleansing agent, which is in a suitable carrier
  • radicals R 2 to R 5 independently of one another represent a hydrogen atom, a C 1 -C 4 -alkyl or a C 1 -C 4 -hydroxyalkyl radical,
  • R is a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated alkyl radical having 6 to 30 carbon atoms
  • M + is in each case an ammonium, an alkanolammonium or a metal cation, b) at least one pearlescing agent, organic and / or inorganic pigments and / or opacifiers, and
  • c) contains hardened castor oil.
  • a suitable carrier is preferably understood as meaning an aqueous or aqueous-alcoholic carrier.
  • the carrier contains at least 50% by weight, more preferably at least 60% by weight, and most preferably at least 70% by weight of water.
  • the cosmetic carrier may contain 0.01 to 40% by weight, preferably 0.05 to 35% by weight and in particular 0.1 to 30% by weight of at least one alcohol which may be selected from ethanol, ethyl diglycol, 1-propanol, 2-propanol, isopropanol, 1, 2-propylene glycol, glycerol, diglycerol, triglycerol, 1-butanol, 2-butanol, 1, 2-butanediol, 1, 3-butanediol, 1-pentanol, 2-pentanol, 1, 2-pentanediol, 1, 5-pentanediol, 1, hexanol, 2-hexanol, 1, 2-hexanediol, 1, 6-hexanediol, polyethylene glycols, sorbitol, sorbitan, benzyl alcohol, phenoxyethanol or mixtures of these alcohols.
  • at least one alcohol which may be selected from ethanol, eth
  • ethanol ethyl diglycol
  • 1-propanol 2-propanol
  • isopropanol 1, 2-propylene glycol
  • glycerol benzyl alcohol and / or phenoxyethanol and mixtures of these alcohols.
  • glycerin Especially preferred is glycerin.
  • Preferred anionic surfactants of the abovementioned formula (I) have, as radical R, a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated alkyl radical having 8 to 18 carbon atoms.
  • the radical R particularly preferably represents a Cs, C10, C12, C-M, C16 radical or mixtures of these fatty acid radicals, as are obtained when the fatty acid (s) is derived from natural oils, such as coconut oil (s) ,
  • the radicals R 2 to R 5 may each stand for hydrogen or a methyl, ethyl, n-propyl, n-butyl or 2-butyl group.
  • the radicals R 2 to R 5 are preferably hydrogen or at least one of the radicals R 2 to R 5 is a methyl, ethyl or n-propyl group and in particular a methyl group.
  • one of the radicals R 2 to R 5 is a C 1 -C 4 -alkyl group - in particular a methyl group - and the other radicals are each a hydrogen atom.
  • the anionic surfactant of the formula (I) contains an isomer mixture in which both components are present, for example, as the radical R 2 is a C 1 -C 4 alkyl group - especially a methyl group - and as radicals R 3 to R 5 each have a hydrogen atom, as well as components which, for example, as the radical R 5 have a Ci-C4-alkyl group - in particular a methyl group - and as radicals R 2 to R 4 each have a hydrogen atom.
  • M + in the aforementioned formula (I) is preferably an alkali metal cation or an ammonium ion. Most preferably, the M + is a potassium or a sodium ion and most preferably a sodium ion.
  • cosmetic cleansing compositions according to the invention are characterized in that they contain at least one anionic surfactant according to formula (I) in which
  • radicals R 2 to R 5 are a hydrogen atom or in which at least one of the radicals R 2 to R 5 is a C 1 -C 4 -alkyl radical, and the other radicals are a hydrogen atom,
  • R is a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated alkyl radical having 8 to 18 carbon atoms
  • M + is a sodium, potassium or ammonium ion.
  • anionic surfactants are particularly preferred (INCI names) Sodium Cocoyl Isethionate, Sodium Lauroyl Isethionate, Sodium Myristyl Isethionate, Sodium Palmitoyl Isethionate, Sodium Stearyl Isethionate, Sodium Oleyl Isethionate, Sodium Cocoyl Methyl Isethionate, Sodium Lauroyl Methyl Isethionate, Sodium Myristyl Methyl Isethionate, Sodium Palmitoyl Methyl Isethionate, Sodium Stearyl Methyl Isethionate and / or Sodium Oleyl Methyl Isethionate.
  • Particularly preferred are sodium cocoyl isethionates and / or sodium lauroyl methyl isethionates.
  • Suitable pearlescing agents may preferably be selected from the mono- and / or diesters of ethylene glycol, 1, 2-propanediol and / or glycerol with C8-C24 fatty acids and / or
  • esters of polyethylene glycols with Cs-C24 fatty acids are the esters of polyethylene glycols with Cs-C24 fatty acids.
  • the mono- and / or diesters of ethylene glycol and / or PEG with C 16 -C 22 fatty acids very particularly preferably the mono- and / or diesters of ethylene glycol and / or PEG with palmitic acid, stearic acid and / or oleic acid, particularly preferably stearic acid ,
  • Examples of particularly preferred pearlizing agents for the purposes of the present invention are: Glycol Distearate, such as the commercial product Cutina ® AGS Cognis, glycol monostearates, such as the commercial product Cutina ® EGMS from Cognis, PEG-3 Distearate, such as the commercial product Genapol ® TS Clariant, PEG-2 distearate, such as the commercial product Kessco ® DEGMS Akzo Nobel, propylene glycol stearates, such as the commercially available product ® Tegin P Goldschmidt.
  • Glycol Distearate such as the commercial product Cutina ® AGS Cognis
  • glycol monostearates such as the commercial product Cutina ® EGMS from Cognis
  • PEG-3 Distearate such as the commercial product Genapol ® TS Clariant
  • PEG-2 distearate such as the commercial product Kessco ® DEGMS Akzo Nobel
  • organic and / or inorganic pigments preference is given to iron oxide, titanium oxide, antimony oxide, magnesium oxide, chromium oxide, aluminum oxide, zinc oxide, zinc peroxide, calcium aluminate, silica, magnesium silicoaluminate, tallow, synthetic mica, colloidal kaolin, bentonite, zinc laurate, polyvinyl chloride, nacre, carbon black, Lanolin, silica and / or mica.
  • the pigments are used as finely divided, pulverulent solids.
  • the finely divided, pulverulent solid is metal oxides, in particular titanium dioxide, or a synthetic or natural mica coated with a metal oxide, wherein the metal oxide is preferably selected from iron oxide or titanium oxide or mixtures thereof.
  • Examples of preferred mica pigments are: Colorona pigments from Merck KGaA, in particular Colorona Light Blue, Colorona Patina Silver, Colorona Bright Gold, Colorona Blackstar Gold, Colorona Majestic Green, Colorona Abrare Amber, Colorona Bronze, Colorona Bordeaux, Colorona Oriental Beige, Colorona Dark Blue, Colorona Red Gold, Colorona Sienna, Colorona Copper, Colorona Blackstar Green, Colorona Russet, Colorona Patagonian Purple, Colorona Carmine Red, Colorona Passion Orange, Colorona Blackstar Blue, Colorona Red Brown, Colorona Chameleon, Colorona Imperial Red and / or Colorona Magenta and their mixtures.
  • the average particle diameter of the finely divided, pulverulent solid in a preferred embodiment of the invention is more than 10 nm, particularly preferably more than 50 nm and in particular more than 100 nm.
  • the particle diameter in the sense of the invention means the average particle diameter. This can be determined by means of the laser diffraction method using suitable measuring devices (eg. Mastersizer 2000 from Malvern, LA-920 from Horiba) can be easily determined by a person skilled in the art.
  • Mean particle diameter is preferably understood to mean the median particle diameter d [z]. This separates the area of the particle size distribution curve into two equal halves, ie there are as many particles with a diameter larger than d [z] than particles with a diameter smaller than d [z].
  • styrene / acrylates copolymers are preferably to be understood as the "Acudyne ®” or “Acusol ®” are available for example under the trade names of Dow, or "Acronal ®” by the company BASF.
  • cleaning agents according to the invention are characterized in that component b) is selected from
  • inorganic pigments in particular metal oxides and / or metal oxides coated synthetic and / or natural mica, and / or
  • the cosmetic cleaners comprise as component b) one of the compounds known under the INCI names Glycol Distearate, Glycol Monostearate and / or PEG-3 Distearate, titanium dioxide, metal oxide-coated mica pigments, in particular with mica pigments coated with iron oxide and / or titanium dioxide, and / or contains the compound known by the INCI name styrene / acrylates copolymer.
  • At least one pearlescent agent, organic and / or inorganic pigments and / or at least one clouding agent wherein the weight fraction of the at least one pearlescing agent, organic and / or inorganic pigment and / or the at least one opacifier on the total weight of the compositions 0.01 to 10 wt .-%, preferably 0.05 to 7.5 wt .-%, particularly preferably 0.1 to 5 wt .-% and in particular 0.25 to 4 wt .-% is, and
  • hardened castor oil wherein the proportion by weight of the hardened castor oil in the total weight of the compositions 0.05 to 5 wt .-%, preferably 0.075 to 4 wt .-%, particularly preferably 0.1 to 3 wt .-% and in particular 0, 2 to 2 wt .-% is.
  • cosmetic cleaners which are particularly preferred are cosmetic cleaners which are
  • anionic surfactant of formula (I) selected from those under the INCI names sodium cocoyl isethionate, sodium lauroyl isethionate, sodium myristyl Isethionate, Sodium Palmitoyl Isethionate, Sodium Stearyl Isethionate, Sodium Oleyl Isethionate, Sodium Cocoyl Methyl Isethionate, Sodium Lauroyl Methyl Isethionate, Sodium Myristyl Methyl Isethionate, Sodium Palmitoyl Methyl Isethionate, Sodium Stearyl Methyl Isethionate and / or Sodium Oleyl Methyl Isethionate Known Compounds,
  • At least one inorganic pigment in particular a metal oxide and / or a metal oxide-coated synthetic and / or natural mica, and / or
  • cosmetic cleaners which are particularly preferred are cosmetic cleaners which are
  • the cleaning agents according to the invention further contain at least one nonionic surfactant and / or at least one nonionic emulsifier.
  • cleaning agents according to the invention are accordingly characterized in that they additionally comprise at least one nonionic surfactant and / or at least one nonionic emulsifier, the weight fraction of the at least one nonionic emulsifier and / or the at least one nonionic surfactant being based on the total weight of the compositions 0, 5 to 25 wt .-%, preferably 0.75 to 20 wt .-%, particularly preferably 1 to 15 wt .-% and in particular 1, 25 to 12.5 wt .-% is.
  • Suitable nonionic surfactants and / or emulsifiers include, for example
  • R is preferably a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated alkyl or alkenyl radical having 8 to 24 carbon atoms and the radicals R 'is hydrogen or the group - (CH 2) n OH, in which n denotes the numbers 2 or 3, with the proviso that at least one of the radicals R 'represents the abovementioned radical - (CH 2) n OH,
  • Glucosides mixtures of alkyl (oligo) and fatty alcohols for example, the commercially available product ® Montanov 68,
  • Sterols are understood to mean a group of steroids which carry a hydroxyl group on C-atom 3 of the steroid skeleton and are isolated both from animal tissue (zoosterines) and from vegetable fats (phytosterols). Examples of zoosterols are cholesterol and lanosterol. Examples of suitable phytosterols are ergosterol, stigmasterol and sitosterol. Mushrooms and yeasts are also used to isolate sterols, the so-called mycosterols.
  • glucose phospholipids e.g. as lecithins or phosphatidylcholines from e.g. Egg yolk or plant seeds (e.g., soybeans).
  • Suitable alkyl (oligo) glycosides may be selected from compounds of the general formula RO- [G] x , in which [G] is preferably derived from aldoses and / or ketoses having 5-6 carbon atoms, preferably glucose.
  • the index number x stands for the degree of oligomerization (DP), i. for the distribution of mono- and oligoglycosides.
  • the index number x preferably has a value in the range of 1 to 10, more preferably in the range of 1 to 3, which may not be an integer, but may be a fractional number that can be determined analytically.
  • Particularly preferred alkyl (oligo) glycosides have a degree of oligomerization between 1, 2 and 1.5.
  • the radical R is preferably at least one alkyl and / or alkenyl radical having 4 to 24 carbon atoms.
  • Particularly preferred alkyl (oligo) glycosides are the compounds known under the INCI names Caprylyl / Capryl Glucoside, Decyl Glucoside, Lauryl Glucoside and Coco Glucoside.
  • Suitable amine oxides may be selected from at least one compound of the general formulas (II) or (III) in which R in each case represents a straight-chain or branched, saturated or mono- or polyunsaturated alkyl or alkenyl radical having 6 to 24 carbon atoms, preferably having 8 to 18 carbon atoms.
  • Cocamine oxides particularly preferred are the known under the INCI names Cocamine oxides, lauramine oxides and / or Cocamidopropylaminoxid and commercially available from various suppliers surfactants of the aforementioned formula (II) or (III).
  • Suitable Cs-Cso-fatty acid mono- and diesters of addition products of 1 to 30 moles of ethylene oxide with glycerol are preferably understood to mean the glyceryl cocoates, in particular PEG-7 glyceryl cocoate, under the INCI names PEG (1-10).
  • ethoxylated fatty acid esters may also be advantageous to combine the ethoxylated fatty acid esters with other ethoxylated fatty acid esters.
  • Such product mixtures are commercially available - for example, under the name "Antil 200®” (INCI name: PEG-200 Hydrogenated Glyceryl Palmate, PEG-7 Glyceryl Cocoate) from Evonik.
  • nonionic surfactants and / or emulsifiers which may be present in the compositions according to the invention are alkyl (oligo) glucosides, in particular the compounds known under the INCI names Caprylyl / Capryl Glucoside, Decyl Glucoside, Lauryl Glucoside and Coco Glucoside, Cs.
  • anionic surfactant (s) according to formula (I) with at least one further surfactant selected from further anionic surfactants and / or from amphoteric / zwitterionic Surfactants is combined.
  • cleaning agents according to the invention are therefore preferred in which the proportion by weight of sulfate-containing surfactants in the total weight of the compositions is less than 0.5% by weight, preferably less than 0.3% by weight and in particular less than 0.2 Wt .-% is.
  • the particularly suitable other anionic surfactants other than a) include, for example:
  • Sulfobernsteinklamono- and / or dialkyl ester having 8 to 24 carbon atoms in the alkyl group and sulfosuccinic monoalkylpolyoxyethylester having 8 to 24 carbon atoms in the alkyl group and 1 to 6 oxyethyl groups.
  • the proportion by weight of one or more of the anionic surfactant (s) differing from a) in the total weight of the cosmetic compositions is preferably from 0.1 to 25% by weight, more preferably from 0.5 to 20% by weight, particularly preferably 0, 75 to 17.5 wt .-% and in particular 1 to 15 wt .-%.
  • Suitable amphoteric and / or zwitterionic surfactants which can be used in the cleaning agents according to the invention preferably correspond to at least one compound of the following formulas (i) to (vii), in which the radical R is a straight-chain or branched, saturated or one or more times unsaturated alkyl or alkenyl radical having 7 to 23 carbon atoms (formulas (i) and (ii)) or a straight-chain or branched, saturated or mono- or polyunsaturated alkyl or alkenyl radical having 8 to 24 carbon atoms (formulas (iii) to ( vii)),
  • Preferred amphoteric and / or zwitterionic surfactants of the abovementioned formulas (i) to (vii) contain as radical R predominantly a straight-chain or branched, saturated, mono- or polyunsaturated alkyl radical having 8 to 20, more preferably 8 to 16 and in particular with 8 to 12 carbon atoms.
  • amphoteric and / or zwitterionic surfactants in which the radical R is derived from coconut oil.
  • amphoteric and / or zwitterionic surfactants of the formulas (iii), (v), (vi) and (vii).
  • amphoteric surfactants known under the INCI names cocamidopropyl betaine and / or cocoampho (di) acetate and commercially available from several suppliers.
  • the proportion by weight of the amphoteric / zwitterionic surfactant (s) of one of the abovementioned formulas (i) to (vii) in the total weight of the cosmetic compositions is preferably from 0.5 to 15% by weight, preferably from 1 to 12.5% by weight. -% and in particular from 2 to 10 wt .-%.
  • cosmetic cleansing compositions according to the invention are preferred which
  • At least one pearlescent agent, organic and / or inorganic pigments and / or at least one clouding agent wherein the weight fraction of the at least one pearlescing agent, organic and / or inorganic pigment and / or the at least one opacifier on the total weight of the compositions 0.01 to 10 Wt .-%, preferably 0.05 to 7.5 wt .-%, particularly preferably 0.1 to 5 wt .-% and in particular 0.25 to 4 wt .-% is,
  • c) hardened castor oil wherein the proportion by weight of the hardened castor oil in the total weight of the compositions 0.05 to 5 wt .-%, preferably 0.075 to 4 wt .-%, particularly preferably 0.1 to 3 wt .-% and in particular 0, From 2 to 2% by weight, d) at least one contains a nonionic surfactant and / or at least one nonionic emulsifier, wherein the proportion by weight of the at least one nonionic emulsifier and / or the at least one nonionic surfactant in the total weight of the compositions from 0.5 to 25 Wt .-%, preferably 0.75 to 20 wt .-%, particularly preferably 1 to 15 wt .-% and in particular 1, 25 to 12.5 wt .-% is, and / or e) at least one further - a) various anionic surfactant, preferably a sulphate group-free anionic surfactant, and / or
  • Suitable protein hydrolysates are product mixtures which can be obtained by acid, alkaline or enzymatically catalyzed degradation of proteins (proteins).
  • Animal protein hydrolysates are, for example, elastin, collagen, keratin, silk and milk protein hydrolysates, which may also be present in the form of salts.
  • Such products are, for example, under the trademarks Dehylan ® (Cognis), Promois® ® (Interorgana) Collapuron ® (Cognis), Nutrilan® ® (Cognis), Gelita-Sol ® (German Gelatinefabriken Stoess & Co), Lexein ® (Inolex) and kerasol tm ® (Croda) sold.
  • protein hydrolysates of plant origin eg. Soybean, almond, rice, pea, potato and wheat protein hydrolysates.
  • Such products are, for example, under the trademarks Gluadin ® (Cognis), diamine ® (Diamalt) ® (Inolex) and Crotein ® (Croda) available.
  • cationized protein hydrolysates the protein hydrolyzate on which the animal is based, for example from collagen, milk or keratin, from the plant, for example from wheat, maize, rice, potatoes, soy or almonds, from marine life forms, for example from fish collages or algae, or from biotechnologically derived protein hydrolysates.
  • the protein hydrolyzates on which the cationic derivatives are based can be obtained from the corresponding proteins by chemical, in particular alkaline or acid hydrolysis, by enzymatic hydrolysis and / or a combination of both types of hydrolysis.
  • the hydrolysis of proteins usually results in a protein hydrolyzate having a molecular weight distribution of about 100 daltons up to several thousand daltons. Preference is given to those cationic protein hydrolyzates whose underlying protein content has a molecular weight of 100 to 25,000 daltons, preferably 250 to 5000 daltons.
  • cationic protein hydrolyzates are to be understood as meaning quaternized amino acids and mixtures thereof.
  • Quaternization of the protein hydrolyzates or amino acids is often carried out using quaternary ammonium salts such as N, N-dimethyl-N- (n-alkyl) -N- (2-hydroxy-3-chloro-n-propyl) ammonium halides.
  • quaternary ammonium salts such as N, N-dimethyl-N- (n-alkyl) -N- (2-hydroxy-3-chloro-n-propyl) ammonium halides.
  • the cationic protein hydrolysates may also be further derivatized.
  • cationic protein hydrolysates and derivatives Cocodimium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Casein, Cocodimium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Collagen, Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Hair Keratin, Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Keratin, Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Rice Protein, Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Silk, Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Soy Protein, Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein, Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Silk Amino Acids, Hydroxypropyl Arginine Lauryl / Myristyl Ether HCl, Hydroxypropyltrimonium Gelatin, Hydroxypropyltrimonium Hydrolyzed Casein, Hydroxypropyltrimonium Hydrolyzed Collagen, Hydroxypropyltrimonium Hydrolyzed Conchiolin Protein, Hydroxypropyl
  • Suitable cationic polymers are, for example:
  • quaternized cellulose derivatives such as are available under the names of Celquat ® and Polymer JR ® commercially
  • quaternized cellulose derivatives which may be hydrophobically modified, for example
  • cationized honey for example the commercial product Honeyquat ® 50, polymeric dimethyldiallylammonium salts and their copolymers with esters and amides of acrylic acid and methacrylic acid.
  • Honeyquat ® 50 Poly (dimethyldiallylammonium chloride)
  • Merquat ® 550 dimethyldiallylammonium chloride-acrylamide copolymer
  • Such compounds are sold under the names Gafquat ® 734 and Gafquat ® 755 commercially,
  • Vinylpyrrolidone vinylimidazoliummethochloride copolymers such as those offered under the names Luviquat.RTM ® FC 370, FC 550, FC 905 and HM 552,
  • Polyquaternium 2 Polyquaternium 17, Polyquaternium 18, Polyquaternium-24, Polyquaternium 27, Polyquaternium-32, Polyquaternium-37, Polyquaternium 74 and Polyquaternium 89 known polymers.
  • Preferred cationic polymers are preferably selected from the polymers known under the INCI names Guar Hydroxypropyltrimonium Chloride, Polyquaternium-67, Polyquaternium-10, Polyquaternium-6, Polyquaternium-7 and / or Polyquaternium-37. Particularly preferred are the polymers known under the INCI names guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chlorides, polyquaternium-7 and / or polyquaternium-10 known polymers.
  • the proportion by weight of the cationic polymer (s) in the total weight of the cosmetic compositions is preferably from 0.01 to 5% by weight, more preferably from 0.025 to 4% by weight, particularly preferably from 0.05 to 3% by weight and in particular 0, 1 to 2 wt .-%.
  • Suitable vitamins are preferably the following vitamins, provitamins and vitamin precursors and their derivatives:
  • Vitamin A the group of substances called vitamin A includes retinol (vitamin Ai) and 3,4-didehydroretinol (vitamin A2).
  • the ß-carotene is the provitamin of retinol.
  • vitamin A component for example, vitamin A acid and its esters, vitamin A aldehyde and vitamin A alcohol and its esters such as the palmitate and the acetate into consideration.
  • Vitamin B belong to the vitamin B group or to the vitamin B complex among others > Vitamin Bi (thiamine)
  • Vitamin B3 > Vitamin B3. Under this designation are often the compounds nicotinic acid and
  • Nicotinic acid amide (niacinamide).
  • Vitamin Bs pantothenic acid and panthenol. Within this group is preferred
  • panthenol used the panthenol.
  • Useful derivatives of panthenol are in particular the
  • Panthenol esters and ethers pantolactone and cationically derivatized panthenols.
  • Individual representatives are, for example, panthenol triacetate, panthenol monoethyl ether and its monoacetate, as well as cationic panthenol derivatives.
  • Vitamin ⁇ (pyridoxine and pyridoxamine and pyridoxal).
  • Vitamin C ascorbic acid: use in the form of palmitic acid ester, glucosides or phosphates may be preferred. The use in combination with tocopherols may also be preferred.
  • Vitamin E tocopherols, especially a-tocopherol
  • Vitamin F is usually understood as meaning essential fatty acids, in particular linoleic acid, linolenic acid and arachidonic acid.
  • Vitamin H is the compound (3aS, 4S, 6aR) -2-oxohexahydrothienol [3,4-d] - imidazole-4-valeric acid, for which, in the meantime, the trivial name biotin has prevailed.
  • vitamins, provitamins and vitamin precursors from groups A, B, E and H Particular preference is given to nicotinamide, biotin, pantolactone and / or panthenol.
  • the proportion by weight of the vitamin (s), vitamin derivative (s), and / or the vitamin precursor (s) in the total weight of the cosmetic compositions is preferably from 0.001 to 2% by weight, particularly preferably from 0.005 to 1% by weight and in particular 0 , 01 to 0.5 wt .-%.
  • Suitable oil, wax and / or fat components may preferably be selected from mineral, natural and synthetic oil components and / or fatty substances.
  • natural (vegetable) oils usually triglycerides and mixtures of triglycerides are used.
  • Preferred natural oils are coconut oil, (sweet) almond oil, walnut oil, peach kernel oil, apricot kernel oil, avocado oil, tea tree oil, soybean oil, sesame oil, sunflower oil, tsubaki oil, evening primrose oil, rice bran oil, palm kernel oil, mango seed oil, meadowfoam seed oil, thistle oil, macadamia nut oil, grapeseed oil, Amaranth seed oil, argan oil, bamboo oil, olive oil, wheat germ oil, pumpkin seed oil, mallow oil, hazelnut oil, safflower oil, canola oil, sasanqua oil, jojoba oil, rambutan oil, cocoa butter and shea butter.
  • mineral oils are used in particular mineral oils, paraffin and Isoparaffinöle and synthetic hydrocarbons.
  • An example of a usable hydrocarbon is for example that available as a commercial product 1, 3-di- (2-ethylhexyl) -cyclohexane (Cetiol ® S).
  • the oil component may further serve a dialkyl ether.
  • dialkyl ethers are in particular di-n-alkyl ethers having a total of from 12 to 36 carbon atoms, in particular 12 to 24 carbon atoms, such as, for example, di-n-octyl ether, di-n-decyl ether, di-n-nonyl ether, di-n -undecyl ether, di-n-dodecyl ether, n-hexyl n-octyl ether, n-octyl n-decyl ether, n-decyl n-undecyl ether, n-undecyl n-dodecyl ether and n-hexyl n-undecyl ether and di tert-butyl ether, di-isopentyl ether, di-3-ethyl decyl ether, tert-butyl n-octyl ether
  • di-n-octyl ether which is commercially available under the name Cetiol ® OE.
  • Suitable synthetic oils are preferably silicone compounds.
  • Silicones have excellent conditioning properties on the hair. In particular, they cause better combability of the hair in the wet and dry state and in many cases have a positive effect on the hair and the softness of the hair.
  • Suitable silicones may be selected from:
  • polyalkyl siloxanes polyaryl siloxanes, polyalkylaryl siloxanes which are volatile or nonvolatile, straight chain, branched or cyclic, crosslinked or uncrosslinked;
  • Fatty substances are to be understood fatty acids, fatty alcohols and natural and synthetic waxes, which may be present both in solid form and liquid in aqueous dispersion.
  • the fatty acids used can be linear and / or branched, saturated and / or unsaturated fatty acids having 6 to 30 carbon atoms. Preference is given to fatty acids having 10 to 22 carbon atoms. Among these could be mentioned, for example, isostearic as the commercial products Emersol ® 871 and Emersol ® 875, and isopalmitic acids such as the commercial product Edenor ® IP 95, and all other products sold under the trade names Edenor ® (Cognis) fatty acids.
  • fatty acids are caproic, caprylic, 2-ethylhexanoic, capric, lauric, isotridecanoic, myristic, palmitic, palmitoleic, stearic, isostearic, oleic, elaidic, petroselic, linoleic, linolenic and erucic acid and their technical mixtures.
  • fatty acid cuttings obtainable from coconut oil or palm oil;
  • stearic acid is usually preferred.
  • fatty alcohols it is possible to use saturated, mono- or polyunsaturated, branched or unbranched fatty alcohols with C6-C30, preferably C10-C22 and very particularly preferably C12-C22, carbon atoms.
  • the fatty alcohols are derived from preferably natural fatty acids, which can usually be based on recovery from the esters of fatty acids by reduction.
  • those fatty alcohol cuts which are produced by reduction of naturally occurring triglycerides such as beef tallow, palm oil, peanut oil, rapeseed oil, cottonseed oil, soybean oil, sunflower oil and linseed oil or from their transesterification products with corresponding fatty acid esters, and thus a mixture of different Represent fatty alcohols.
  • Such substances are, for example, under the names Stenol ® such as Stenol ® 1618 or Lanette ® such as Lanette ® O or Lorol ®, for example, Lorol ® C8, Lorol C14 ®, Lorol C18 ®, ® Lorol C8-18, HD-Ocenol ®, Crodacol ® such as Crodacol ® CS, Novol ®, Eutanol ® G, Guerbitol ® 16, Guerbitol ® 18, Guerbitol ® 20, Isofol ® 12, Isofol ® 16, Isofol ® 24, Isofol ® 36, Isocarb ® 12, Isocarb ® 16 or acquire Isocarb® ® 24 for sale.
  • wool wax alcohols as are commercially available, for example under the names of Corona ®, White Swan ®, Coronet ® or Fluilan ® can be used according to the invention.
  • waxes may be used solid paraffins or isoparaffins, carnauba waxes, beeswaxes, candelilla waxes, ozokerites, ceresin, spermaceti, sunflower wax, fruit waxes such as apple wax or citrus wax, microwaxes of PE or PP.
  • Such waxes are available, for example, from Kahl & Co., Trittau.
  • Other fatty substances are, for example
  • Ester oils are the esters of C6-C30 fatty acids with C2-C30 fatty alcohols.
  • the monoesters of the fatty acids with alcohols having 2 to 24 carbon atoms are preferred.
  • fatty acid components used in the esters are caproic acid, caprylic acid, 2-ethylhexanoic acid, capric acid, lauric acid, isotridecanoic acid, myristic acid, palmitic acid, palmitoleic acid, stearic acid, isostearic acid, oleic acid, elaidic acid, petroselinic acid, linoleic acid, linolenic acid, elaeostearic acid, arachidic acid, Gadoleic acid, behenic acid and erucic acid and their technical mixtures.
  • fatty alcohol components in the ester oils are isopropyl alcohol, caproic alcohol, capryl alcohol, 2-ethylhexyl alcohol, capric alcohol, lauryl alcohol, isotridecyl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, palmoleyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, elaidyl alcohol, petroselinyl alcohol, linolyl alcohol, linolenyl alcohol, elaeostearyl alcohol, arachyl alcohol, Gadoleyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, erucyl alcohol and brassidyl alcohol and their technical mixtures.
  • isopropyl myristate IPM Rilanit ®
  • isononanoic acid C16-18 alkyl ester Cetiol ® SN
  • 2-ethylhexyl palmitate Cegesoft ® 24
  • stearic acid 2-ethylhexyl ester Cetiol ® 868
  • cetyl oleate glycerol tricaprylate, caprate Kokosfettalkohol- / - caprylate (Cetiol ® LC), n-butyl stearate, oleyl erucate (Cetiol ® J 600), isopropyl palmitate (Rilanit ® IPP), oleyl Oleate (Cetiol ®), hexyl laurate (Cetiol ® A), di-n-butyl adipate (Cetiol ® B),
  • Myristyl myristate (Cetiol ® MM), Cetearyl Isononanoate (Cetiol ® SN), decyl oleate (Cetiol ® V).
  • Dicarboxylic acid esters such as di-n-butyl adipate, di- (2-ethylhexyl) adipate, di- (2-ethylhexyl) succinate and di-isotridecyl acelate
  • diol esters such as ethylene glycol dioleate, ethylene glycol diisotridecanoate, propylene glycol di (2) ethylhexanoate), propylene glycol diisostearate, propylene glycol di-pelargonate, butanediol diisostearate, neopentyl glycol dicaprylate,
  • ethoxylated or non ethoxylated mono, - di- and trifatty acid esters of saturated and / or unsaturated linear and / or branched fatty acids with glycerol such as Monomuls 90-018 ®, ® Monomuls 90-L12, Cetiol ® HE or Cutina ® MD.
  • the proportion by weight of the oil, wax and / or fat components in the total weight of the cosmetic compositions is preferably 0.01 to 5 wt .-%, particularly preferably 0.025 to 4 wt .-% and in particular 0.05 to 3 wt .-%.
  • cosmetic cleansing compositions containing as care component at least one cationic polymer, at least one water-insoluble silicone compound and / or at least one vitamin (derivative).
  • a nourishing active ingredient complex which contains at least two nourishing substances from the abovementioned active ingredient groups.
  • Glycerin may be added to cosmetics separately in an amount of up to 10% by weight (based on the total weight of the cleanser). It may also be part of the aqueous-alcoholic carrier.
  • cosmetic compositions according to the invention are also suitable for use as antidandruff preparations.
  • the total weight of anti-dandruff agents in the total weight of the cosmetic compositions may preferably 0.01 to 10 wt .-%, more preferably 0.025 to 7.5 wt .-%, particularly preferably 0.05 to 5 wt .-% and in particular 0.075 to 3 wt .-% amount.
  • Suitable antidandruff active ingredients may be selected from Piroctone olamine, climbazole, zinc pyrithione, ketoconazole, salicylic acid, sulfur, selenium sulfide, tar preparations, undecenoic acid derivatives, burdock root extracts, poplar extracts, nettle extracts, walnut shell extracts, birch extracts, willow bark extracts, rosemary extracts and / or arnica extracts.
  • auxiliaries and additives which may preferably be present in the cleaning agents according to the invention are, for example:
  • Thickening agents such as gelatin or vegetable gums, for example agar-agar, guar gum, alginates, xanthan gum, gum arabic, karaya gum, locust bean gum, linseed gums, dextrans, cellulose derivatives, e.g. As methylcellulose, hydroxyalkylcellulose and carboxymethylcellulose, starch fractions and derivatives such as amylose, amylopectin and dextrins, clays and phyllosilicates such. As bentonite or fully synthetic hydrocolloids such.
  • Thickening agents such as gelatin or vegetable gums, for example agar-agar, guar gum, alginates, xanthan gum, gum arabic, karaya gum, locust bean gum, linseed gums, dextrans, cellulose derivatives, e.g. As methylcellulose, hydroxyalkylcellulose and carboxymethylcellulose, starch fractions and derivatives such as amylose, amylope
  • Structurants such as maleic acid and lactic acid
  • fiber-structure-improving active ingredients in particular mono-, di- and oligosaccharides such as, for example, glucose, galactose, fructose, fructose and lactose,
  • Substances for adjusting the pH for example ⁇ - and ⁇ -hydroxycarboxylic acids such as citric acid, lactic acid, malic acid, glycolic acid,
  • Active ingredients such as bisabolol,
  • Ceramides are understood as meaning N-acylsphingosine (fatty acid amides of sphingosine) or synthetic analogs of such lipids (so-called pseudo-ceramides),
  • Propellants such as propane-butane mixtures, N 2 O, dimethyl ether, CO 2 and air,
  • Preservatives such as sodium benzoate or salicylic acid
  • Additional viscosity regulators such as salts (NaCl).
  • the cosmetic compositions according to the invention may preferably have a pH in the range from 3 to 8, more preferably from 3.5 to 7.5, particularly preferably from 4 to 7 and in particular from 4.5 to 6.5.
  • the cosmetic compositions according to the invention preferably have a viscosity in the range from 1, 000 to 15,000 mPas, preferably from 1, 500 to 12,500 mPas and in particular from 3,000 to 10,000 mPas (measured in each case with a Haake VT550 20 ° C rotary viscometer, measuring device MV Spindle MV II; 8 rpm).
  • Compositions of such a viscosity can be well distributed on the respective application surface - particularly preferably on the hair - and, if appropriate, rinse off again with water after use.
  • a second object of the invention is the use of hardened castor oil to increase the care properties of cosmetic cleaners, the a) at least one anionic surfactant according to formula (I) below,
  • radicals R 2 to R 5 independently of one another represent a hydrogen atom, a C 1 -C 4 -alkyl or a C 1 -C 4 -hydroxyalkyl radical,
  • R is a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated alkyl radical having 6 to 30 carbon atoms
  • M + is in each case an ammonium, an alkanolammonium or a metal cation
  • At least one pearlescing agent organic and / or inorganic pigments and / or at least one clouding agent.
  • care properties are understood in particular as hair care properties and, in particular, improved combability of the hair and / or an improved hair grip.
  • the use according to the invention therefore relates to improving the combability of the hair and / or improving the hair grip.
  • a third aspect of the invention is a cosmetic method for improving the hair grip and / or the combability of hair, in which a cosmetic cleanser containing
  • radicals R 2 to R 5 independently of one another represent a hydrogen atom, a C 1 -C 4 -alkyl or a C 1 -C 4 -hydroxyalkyl radical,
  • R is a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated alkyl radical having 6 to 30 carbon atoms
  • M + is in each case an ammonium, an alkanolammonium or a metal cation, b) at least one pearlescing agent, organic and / or inorganic pigments and / or at least one clouding agent, and
  • compositions A-D in the following table; amounts in [% by weight]
  • compositions A-F the following commercial products were used:
  • the hair cleansing compositions according to the invention have a rich, white shimmering appearance. They are storage stable (even at higher temperatures) and show no Separationserscheinept, although no acrylate gelling agents or fatty acids have been added as stabilizers.
  • the compositions (B, C, D) according to the invention impart improved combability (in particular improved dry combability) to the hairs treated therewith, as well as an improved hair grip.

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Abstract

L'invention concerne un produit cosmétique nettoyant, qui contient, dans un support approprié, a) au moins un tensioactif anionique de la formule (I), dans laquelle les restes R2 à R5 représentent indépendamment les uns des autres un atome d'hydrogène, un alkyle C1-C4 ou un reste hydroxyalkyle C1-C4, R1 représente un reste alkyle linéaire ou ramifié, saturé ou insaturé, comprenant 6 à 30 atomes de carbone, et M+ représente respectivement un ammonium, un alcanolammonium ou un cation métallique, b) au moins un agent perlescent, des pigments organiques et/ou inorganiques et/ou un agent opacifiant, et c) de l'huile de ricin durcie. L'invention concerne par ailleurs l'utilisation d'huile de ricin durcie pour améliorer les propriétés soignantes de produits cosmétiques nettoyants, qui contiennent les composants a) et b) ci-dessus, ainsi qu'un procédé cosmétique permettant d'améliorer le toucher des cheveux et/ou la coiffabilité des cheveux, dans lequel on applique sur des cheveux secs ou humides les composants a) et b) ci-dessus, et on laisse agir pendant une durée allant de 5 secondes à 5 minutes avant de rincer à l'eau.
PCT/EP2014/074437 2013-12-17 2014-11-13 Produit cosmétique nettoyant contenant un tensioactif anionique et de l'huile de ricin durcie WO2015090744A1 (fr)

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Cited By (2)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
WO2016124407A1 (fr) * 2015-02-03 2016-08-11 Henkel Ag & Co. Kgaa Produit de soin et de nettoyage du corps
WO2023057767A1 (fr) * 2021-10-06 2023-04-13 Innospec Active Chemicals Llc Compositions et procédés

Citations (2)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
WO1999010467A1 (fr) * 1997-08-21 1999-03-04 Imperial Chemical Industries Plc Formulations detergentes synthetiques
US20090297466A1 (en) * 2008-05-30 2009-12-03 Erik Gutmann Continuous Moisturization Compositions

Patent Citations (2)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
WO1999010467A1 (fr) * 1997-08-21 1999-03-04 Imperial Chemical Industries Plc Formulations detergentes synthetiques
US20090297466A1 (en) * 2008-05-30 2009-12-03 Erik Gutmann Continuous Moisturization Compositions

Cited By (2)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
WO2016124407A1 (fr) * 2015-02-03 2016-08-11 Henkel Ag & Co. Kgaa Produit de soin et de nettoyage du corps
WO2023057767A1 (fr) * 2021-10-06 2023-04-13 Innospec Active Chemicals Llc Compositions et procédés

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