WO2015086268A1 - Procédé de teinture capillaire oxydative utilisant des substances de soin avec un décalage de teinte minimal - Google Patents

Procédé de teinture capillaire oxydative utilisant des substances de soin avec un décalage de teinte minimal Download PDF

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Publication number
WO2015086268A1
WO2015086268A1 PCT/EP2014/074916 EP2014074916W WO2015086268A1 WO 2015086268 A1 WO2015086268 A1 WO 2015086268A1 EP 2014074916 W EP2014074916 W EP 2014074916W WO 2015086268 A1 WO2015086268 A1 WO 2015086268A1
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Prior art keywords
oil
weight
total amount
ceteareth
steareth
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PCT/EP2014/074916
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German (de)
English (en)
Inventor
Matthias Schweinsberg
Sylvia KERL
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Henkel Ag & Co. Kgaa
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Publication of WO2015086268A1 publication Critical patent/WO2015086268A1/fr

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    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q5/00—Preparations for care of the hair
    • A61Q5/10—Preparations for permanently dyeing the hair
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/58—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing atoms other than carbon, hydrogen, halogen, oxygen, nitrogen, sulfur or phosphorus
    • A61K8/585—Organosilicon compounds
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/84—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions otherwise than those involving only carbon-carbon unsaturated bonds
    • A61K8/89—Polysiloxanes
    • A61K8/891—Polysiloxanes saturated, e.g. dimethicone, phenyl trimethicone, C24-C28 methicone or stearyl dimethicone
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/92—Oils, fats or waxes; Derivatives thereof, e.g. hydrogenation products thereof
    • A61K8/922—Oils, fats or waxes; Derivatives thereof, e.g. hydrogenation products thereof of vegetable origin
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q5/00—Preparations for care of the hair
    • A61Q5/12—Preparations containing hair conditioners
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K2800/00—Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
    • A61K2800/80—Process related aspects concerning the preparation of the cosmetic composition or the storage or application thereof
    • A61K2800/88—Two- or multipart kits
    • A61K2800/882—Mixing prior to application

Definitions

  • the present invention relates to a method for oxidative hair coloring, in which one or more selected care substances are used, which cause no or only a minimal color shift and a corresponding kit for dyeing keratin-containing fibers.
  • Human hair is today treated in a variety of ways with hair cosmetic preparations. These include, for example, the cleansing of hair with shampoos, the care and regeneration with rinses and cures and the bleaching, dyeing and shaping of the hair with dyes, tinting agents, waving agents and styling preparations. In this case, means for changing or nuancing the color of the head hair play a prominent role.
  • the bleaching agents which cause an oxidative lightening of the hair by degradation of the natural hair dyes, so in the field of hair color change, the oxidative hair coloring is essential.
  • oxidation colorants For permanent, intensive dyeings with corresponding fastness properties, so-called oxidation colorants are used. Such colorants usually contain oxidation dye precursors, so-called developer components and coupler components. The developer components form the actual dyes under the influence of oxidizing agents or of atmospheric oxygen with one another or with coupling with one or more coupler components.
  • the oxidation dyes are characterized by excellent, long-lasting dyeing results.
  • OFV oxidation dye precursors
  • DZ direct dyes
  • oxidative colorants for stabilizing the dye precursors during storage and for accelerating the reaction during the oxidative application have an alkaline pH adjusted with alkalizing agents, such as alkanolamines, ammonia or inorganic bases.
  • oxidation dye precursors (OFV) and alkalizing agents are usually incorporated in a cosmetically suitable carrier, for example a cream or a gel.
  • a cosmetically suitable carrier for example a cream or a gel.
  • the carrier ensures a homogeneous distribution and a sufficient residence time of the colorant on the hair.
  • oxidation stains are commonly formulated into product series that include a standardized carrier that can be combined as fully as possible with the nuance-specific OFV combination and alkalizing agents.
  • Consumers can usually obtain the coloring of the hair that can be achieved with a hair dye from an indication on the packaging of the hair dye and / or a color chart enclosed in the packaging.
  • the result of the dyeing does not depend solely on the combination of the OFV and, if appropriate, the DZ used, but is also influenced by the ingredients of the carrier.
  • the dyes formed or directly used in the course of color development under the influence of the oxidizing agent may have a significantly different absorption capacity onto the fiber; also the carrier ingredients can act differently on each dye.
  • Hair dyes are therefore extensively and extensively tested for their achievable color and for a variety of application properties prior to market introduction. Thus, these tests only consider the interactions between the OFV and the carrier for a specific carrier.
  • color shift This color shift, also denoted dE or ⁇ , can be determined colorimetrically well with a color measuring device with which the colors in the L *, a *, b * color space are measured be, for example, with a colorimeter from Datacolor, type Spectraflash 450th
  • the L *, a *, b * color space is understood to mean the CIELAB color space.
  • the L value stands for the brightness of the color (black and white axis); the larger the value for L, the lighter the coloration.
  • the a value stands for the red-green axis of the system; the larger this value is, the more the color is shifted to red.
  • the b value stands for the yellow-blue axis of the system; the larger this value is, the more the color is shifted to yellow.
  • the color shift ⁇ ie the color difference between two (hair) colors, for each of which an L *, a *, b * value combination has been determined, is calculated according to the following formula:
  • the present application was therefore based on the object to provide a method for oxidative hair coloring, in which one or more selected care and active ingredients are used, which cause no or only a minimal color shift.
  • an oxidative hair dye could be improved in its care properties without the hair coloration obtained differing visibly from the hair coloration obtained with the original hair dye by adding a selected amount of a hair conditioning composition M3 containing at least one linear polydialkylsiloxane , Cyclomethicone and at least one vegetable oil in selected amount ranges, is added to the dyeing composition M1 before or after M1 is mixed with an oxidizing agent composition M2 to a ready hair dye, none of the compositions used in the actual dyeing method contains dimethiconol.
  • the subject matter of the present application is a process for dyeing the hair, comprising the following steps:
  • a dyeing composition M1 comprising at least one oxidation dye precursor (OFV) and at least one alkalizing agent
  • oxidizing agent composition M2 containing, based on the weight of M2, 40-98% by weight of water, 0.5-20% by weight of hydrogen peroxide and at least one acid,
  • M3 is added to M1 or to the mixture of M1 with M2 and wherein the weight ratio M3: M1 is in the range of 0.005 to 0.05, preferably 0.01 to 0.04, more preferably 0.02 is up to 0.03,
  • M3 contains the following ingredients (amounts by weight of M3):
  • the linear polydialkylsiloxane contained in the hair conditioning composition M3 is preferably selected from linear polydimethylsiloxanes.
  • Such linear polydimethylsiloxanes have the INCI name Dimethicone.
  • Preferred according to the invention are linear polydimethylsiloxanes having a kinematic viscosity at 25 ° C. of at least 5 cSt to 2000 cSt, preferably 10 to 350 cSt, particularly preferably 50-100 cSt, as described, for example, in US Pat. B. under the trade names Dow Corning ® 200 and Xiameter PMX Dow Corning or Xiameter are available.
  • the at least one linear polydialkylsiloxane is in a total amount of 0.5-15% by weight, preferably 1-10% by weight, particularly preferably 2-8% by weight, in each case based on the weight of the hair-conditioning composition M3, contain.
  • a preferred embodiment is characterized in that the at least one linear polydimethylsiloxane, preferably the at least one linear polydimethylsiloxane having a kinematic viscosity at 25 ° C of at least 5 cSt to 2000 cSt, preferably 10 to 350 cSt, more preferably 50 - 100 cSt, in a total amount of 0.5 to 15 wt .-%, preferably 1 to 10 wt .-%, particularly preferably 2-8 wt .-%, each based on the weight of the hair conditioning composition M3 included.
  • the hair conditioning composition M3 contains 10-99.4% by weight, preferably 30-90% by weight, particularly preferably 50-80% by weight of cyclomethicones.
  • the INCI name cyclomethicones is understood in particular to mean cyclotrisiloxane (hexamethylcyclotrisiloxane), cyclotetrasiloxane (octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane), cyclopentasiloxane (decamethylcyclopentasiloxane) and cyclohexasiloxane (dodecamethylcyclohexasiloxane).
  • M3 particularly preferably contains cyclopentasiloxane (decamethylcyclopentasiloxane) and / or cyclohexasiloxane (dodecamethylcyclohexasiloxane) in a total amount of 10-99.4% by weight, preferably 30-90% by weight, particularly preferably 50-80% by weight, based on the weight of M3.
  • the at least one vegetable oil contained in the hair conditioning composition M3 is preferably selected from amaranth seed oil, apricot kernel oil, argan oil, avocado oil, babasoil oil, cottonseed oil, borage seed oil, camelina oil, chia oil, thistle oil, peanut oil, pomegranate seed oil, grapefruit seed oil, hemp oil, hazelnut oil, Elderflower oil, currant seed oil, jojoba oil, pumpkin seed oil, linseed oil, macadamia nut oil, corn oil, almond oil, marula oil, poppy seed oil, moringa oil, evening primrose oil, olive oil, palm oil, palm kernel oil, perilla oil, peach kernel oil, rapeseed oil, rice oil, castor oil, sacha inchi oil, sea buckthorn oil, sea buckthorn seed oil, sesame oil , Soybean oil, sunflower oil, grapeseed oil, walnut oil, wheat germ oil, rosehip oil and the liquid portions of coconut oil.
  • the at least one M3 hair conditioning composition containing vegetable oil selected from amaranth seed oil, apricot kernel oil, argan oil, avocado oil, babassu oil, cottonseed oil, borage seed oil, camelina oil, chia oil, thistle oil, peanut oil, pomegranate seed oil, grapefruit oil.
  • the hair conditioner composition M3 best exhibits its conditioning effect with minimal color shift when, based on the weight of the dyeing composition M1, in a total amount of 0.5 to 5 wt.%, Preferably 1 to 4 wt preferably 2 to 3 wt .-%, is used. Accordingly, according to the invention, the weight ratio M3: M1 is in the range of 0.005 to 0.05, preferably in the range of 0.01 to 0.04, particularly preferably in the range of 0.02 to 0.03.
  • the hair conditioner composition M3 is added to the dyeing composition M1 before or after M1 is mixed with an oxidizer composition M2 to form a ready-to-use hair dye.
  • the hair conditioning composition M3 contains zero to 10% by weight, preferably zero to 1% by weight of water.
  • the hair conditioning composition M3 contains at least one ester of a saturated or unsaturated, branched or unbranched C8 to C30 acid with a saturated or unsaturated, branched or unbranched C1 to C22 monoalcohol.
  • Preferred examples thereof are isopropyl palmitate, isopropyl propylstearat, isopropyl myristate, 2-hexyldecyl stearate, 2-hexyldecyl laurate, isodecyl neopentanoate, isononyl isononanoate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, 2-ethylhexyl stearate, isopropyl isostearate, isopropyl oleate, isooctyl stearate, Isononylstearat, isocetyl stearate, isononyl isononanoate, isotridecyl isononanoate, cetearyl isononanoate, 2- Ethyl hexyl laurate, 2-ethylhexyl isostearate, 2-ethylhexyl cocoate, 2-octyl dodecyl
  • the hair conditioning composition M3 comprises at least one ester of a saturated or unsaturated, branched or unbranched C8 to C30 acid with a saturated or unsaturated, branched or unbranched C1 to C22 monoalcohol in a total amount of 0 , 1 - 50 wt .-%, preferably 0.2 to 15 wt .-%, particularly preferably 1-5 wt .-%, each based on the weight of the hair conditioning composition M3.
  • the hair conditioning composition M3 comprises at least one paraffin oil, preferably in a total amount of 0, 1-50 wt .-%, preferably 0.2 to 15 wt .-%, particularly preferably 1-5 wt. %, in each case based on the weight of the hair conditioning composition M3. None of the compositions used in steps i) to vii) of the process according to the invention or preferred according to the invention contains dimethiconol. It has been found that hair conditioning compositions used in the same way as the composition M3 used according to the invention lead to a clearly visible color shift of ⁇ > 2.
  • dimethiconol appears to have a greater influence on the reaction product in the course of color development under the influence of the oxidizing agent than the components of the composition M3 used in accordance with the invention. Since color development is already completed in process step viii) of the process according to the invention or preferred according to the invention, there is basically nothing to prevent the use of dimethiconol in this step.
  • the dyeing composition M1 used according to the invention is, in principle, a conventional dyeing composition containing at least one oxidation dye precursor (OFV) and at least one alkalizing agent.
  • the oxidation dye precursors are subdivided into developer components and coupler components.
  • the agent M1 contains one or more developer components and optionally one or more coupler components.
  • the developer components form the actual dyes under the influence of oxidizing agents or of atmospheric oxygen with one another or with coupling with one or more coupler components.
  • the developer components are usually primary aromatic amines having a further, in the para or ortho position free or substituted hydroxy or amino group, diaminopyridine, heterocyclic hydrazones, 4-aminopyrazolone londerivate and 2,4,5,6-tetraaminopyrimidine and its derivatives used.
  • p-phenylenediamine derivatives of the formula (E1) it may be preferred according to the invention to use as the developer component a p-phenylenediamine derivative or one of its physiologically acceptable salts. Particular preference is given to p-phenylenediamine derivatives of the formula (E1)
  • G is a hydrogen atom, a C 1 -C 4 -alkyl radical, a C 1 -C 4 -monohydroxyalkyl radical, a C 2 -C 4 -hydroxyalkyl radical, a C 1 -C 4 -alkoxy- (C 1 -C 4) -alkyl radical, a 4-aminophenyl radical or a Ci-C4-alkyl radical which is substituted with a nitrogen-containing group, a phenyl or a 4-aminophenyl radical;
  • G 2 represents a hydrogen atom, a C 1 -C 4 -alkyl radical, a C 1 -C 4 -monohydroxyalkyl radical, a C 2 -C 4 -hydroxyalkyl radical, a C 1 -C 4 -alkoxy- (C 1 -C 4) -alkyl radical or a C 1 -C 4 -alkyl radical rest substituted with a nitrogen-containing group;
  • G 3 represents a hydrogen atom, a halogen atom, such as a chlorine, bromine, iodine or fluorine atom, a C 1 -C 4 -alkyl radical, a C 1 -C 4 -monohydroxyalkyl radical, a C 2 -C 4 -hydroxyalkyl radical, a C 1 -C 4 -hydroxyalkoxy radical a C 1 -C 4 -alkoxy- (C 1 -C 4) -alkyl radical, a C 1 -C 4
  • G 4 represents a hydrogen atom, a halogen atom, a C 1 -C 4 -alkyl radical or a C 1 -C 4 -alkoxy- (C 1 -C 4) -alkyl radical or
  • G 3 and G 4 when G 3 and G 4 are ortho to each other, they may together form a bridging ⁇ , ⁇ -alkylenedioxy group such as an ethylenedioxy group.
  • Particularly preferred p-phenylenediamines of formula (E1) are selected from one or more compounds of the group formed from p-phenylenediamine, p-toluenediamine, 2-chloro-p-phenylenediamine, 2,3-dimethyl-p-phenylenediamine , 2,6-dimethyl-p-phenylenediamine, 2,6-diethyl-p-phenylenediamine, 2,5-dimethyl-p-phenylenediamine, N, N-dimethyl-p-phenylenediamine, N, N-diethyl -p-phenylenediamine, N, N-dipropyl-p-phenylenediamine, 4-amino-3-methyl- (N, N-diethyl) -aniline, N, N-bis (2-hydroxyethyl) -p-phenylenediamine, 4 -N, N-bis (2-hydroxyethyl) amino-2-methylaniline
  • p-phenylenediamine derivatives of the formula (E1) are selected from at least one compound of the group p-phenylenediamine, p-toluenediamine, 2- (2-hydroxyethyl) -p-phenylenediamine, 2- (1, 2-dihydroxyethyl) - p-phenylenediamine, N, N-bis (2-hydroxy-ethyl) -p-phenylenediamine, N- (4-amino-3-methylphenyl) -N- [3- (1 H -imidazol-1-yl) -propyl ] amine, 2-methoxymethyl-p-phenylenediamine and their physiologically acceptable salts.
  • developer component compounds which contain at least two aromatic nuclei which are substituted by amino and / or hydroxyl groups.
  • binuclear developer components which can be used in the dyeing compositions according to the invention, mention may be made in particular of the compounds corresponding to the following formula (E2) and their physiologically acceptable salts,
  • Z and Z 2 independently of one another represent a hydroxyl or Nhh radical which is optionally substituted by a C 1 -C 4 -alkyl radical, by a C 1 -C 4 -hydroxyalkyl radical and / or by a bond Y or which is optionally part of a bridging ring system
  • the bridge Y is an alkylene group having 1 to 14 carbon atoms, such as a linear or branched alkylene chain or an alkylene ring, which may be interrupted or terminated by one or more nitrogen-containing groups and / or one or more heteroatoms such as oxygen, sulfur or nitrogen atoms, and may optionally be substituted by one or more hydroxyl or C 1 -C 5 -alkoxy radicals, or a direct bond
  • G 5 and G 6 independently of one another represent a hydrogen or halogen atom, a C 1 -C 4 -alkyl radical, a C 1 -C 4 -monohydroxyalkyl radical a C2-C4
  • G 7 , G 8 , G 9 , G 0 , G and G 2 independently of one another represent a hydrogen atom, a direct bond to the bridge Y or a C 1 -C 4 -alkyl radical,
  • Preferred binuclear developer components of the formula (E2) are in particular selected from at least one of the following compounds: N, N'-bis (2-hydroxyethyl) -N, N'-bis (4-amino-phenyl) -1, 3 diamino-propan-2-ol, N, N'-bis (2-hydroxyethyl) -N, N'-bis (4-aminophenyl) ethylenediamine, N, N'-bis (4-aminophenyl) tetramethylenediamine, N , N'-bis (2-hydroxyethyl) -N, N'-bis (4-aminophenyl) tetramethylenediamine, N, N'-bis (4- (methylamino) phenyl) tetramethylenediamine, N, N'-diethyl N, N'-bis (4-amino-3-methylphenyl) ethylenediamine, bis (2-hydroxy-5-aminophenyl) methane
  • Very particularly preferred binuclear developer components of the formula (E2) are selected from N, N'-bis (2-hydroxyethyl) -N, N'-bis (4-aminophenyl) -1,3-diamino-propane-2 -ol, bis (2-hydroxy-5-aminophenyl) -methane, 1, 3-bis- (2,5-diaminophenoxy) -propan-2-ol, N, N'-bis (4-aminophenyl) - 1, 4-diazacycloheptane, 1, 10-bis (2,5-diaminophenyl) -1, 4,7, 10-tetra-oxadecane or a physiologically acceptable salts thereof.
  • p-aminophenol derivatives of the formula (E3) it may be preferred according to the invention to use as the developer component a p-aminophenol derivative or one of its physiologically tolerable salts. Particular preference is given to p-aminophenol derivatives of the formula (E3)
  • G 3 represents a hydrogen atom, a halogen atom, a C 1 -C 4 -alkyl radical, a C 1 -C 4 -monohydroxyalkyl radical, a C 2 -C 4 -hydroxyalkyl radical, a C 1 -C 4 -alkoxy- (C 1 -C 4) -alkyl radical, a C 1 C 4 -aminoalkyl radical, a hydroxy- (C 1 -C 4) -alkylamino radical, a C 1 -C 4 -hydroxyalkoxy radical, a C 1 -C 4 -hydroxyalkyl- (C 1 -C 4) -aminoalkyl radical or a di- [(C 1 -C 4) -alkyl] amino- (C 1 -C 4) -alkyl radical, and
  • G 4 is a hydrogen or halogen atom, a C 1 -C 4 -alkyl radical, a C 1 -C 4 -monohydroxyalkyl radical, a C 2 -C 4 -hydroxyalkyl radical, a C 1 -C 4 -alkoxy- (C 1 -C 4) -alkyl radical, a C 1 -C4-aminoalkyl radical or a Ci-C4-Cyanoalkylrest,
  • G 5 is hydrogen, C 1 -C 4 -alkyl, C 1 -C 4 -monohydroxyalkyl, C 2 -C 4 -hydroxyalkyl, phenyl or benzyl, and
  • G 6 is hydrogen or a halogen atom.
  • Preferred p-aminophenols of the formula (E3) are in particular p-aminophenol, N-methyl-p-aminophenol, 4-amino-3-methylphenol, 4-amino-3-fluorophenol, 2-hydroxymethylamino-4-aminophe - nol, 4-amino-3-hydroxymethylphenol, 4-amino-2- ( ⁇ -hydroxyethoxy) phenol, 4-amino-2-methylphenyl, 4-amino-2-hydroxymethylphenol, 4-amino-2-methoxymethyl -phenol, 4-amino-2-aminomethylphenol, 4-amino-2- (2-hydroxyethylaminomethyl) phenol, 4-amino-2- (1, 2-dihydroxyethyl) phenol, 4-amino-2-fluorophenol, 4 -Amino-2-chlorophenol, 4-amino-2,6-dichlorophenol, 4-amino-2- (diethylamino-methyl) phenol and their physiologically acceptable salts.
  • Particularly preferred compounds of the formula (E3) are p-aminophenol, 4-amino-3-methylphenol, 4-amino-2-aminomethylphenol, 4-amino-2- (1, 2-dihydroxyethyl) phenol and 4-amino-2-ol (diethylaminomethyl) phenol.
  • the developer component may be selected from o-aminophenol and its derivatives such as 2-amino-4-methylphenol, 2-amino-5-methylphenol or 2-amino-4-chlorophenol.
  • the developer component may be selected from heterocyclic developer components, such as pyrimidine derivatives, pyrazole derivatives, pyrazolopyrimidine derivatives or their physiologically acceptable salts.
  • Particularly preferred pyrimidine derivatives are in particular the compounds 2,4,5,6-tetraaminopyrimidine, 4-hydroxy-2,5,6-triaminopyrimidine, 2-hydroxy-4,5,6-triaminopyrimidine, 2-dimethylamino-4,5 , 6-triaminopyrimidine, 2,4-dihydroxy-5,6-diaminopyrimidine and 2,5,6-triaminopyrimidine.
  • Particularly preferred pyrazole derivatives are in particular the compounds which are selected from 4,5-diamino-1-methylpyrazole, 4,5-diamino-1- ( ⁇ -hydroxyethyl) pyrazole, 3,4-diaminopyrazole, 4 5-diamino-1- (4-chlorobenzyl) -pyrazole, 4,5-diamino-1,3-dimethylpyrazole, 4,5-diamino-3-methyl-1-phenylpyrazole, 4,5-diamino-1-methyl- 3-phenylpyrazole, 4-amino-1,3-dimethyl-5-hydrazinopyrazole, 1-benzyl-4,5-diamino-3-methylpyrazole, 4,5-diamino-3- tert -butyl-1-methylpyrazole, 4,5-diamino-1-tert-butyl-3-methylpyrazole, 4,5-diamino-1 - ( ⁇ -
  • Preferred pyrazolopyrimidines are pyrazolo [1, 5-a] pyrimidines.
  • the pyrazolo [1,5-a] pyrimidines are in turn pyrazolo [1,5-a] pyrimidine-3,7-diamine, 2,5-dimethyl-pyrazolo [1,5-a] pyrimidine-3J-diamine , Pyrazolo [1,5-a] pyrimidine-3,5-diamine, 2,7-dimethyl-pyrazolo [1,5-a] pyrimidine-3,5-diamine, 3-aminopyrazolo [1,5-a] pyrimidine -7-ol, 3-aminopyrazolo [1,5-a] pyrimidin-5-ol, 2- (3-aminopyrazolo [1,5-a] pyrimidin-7-ylamino) ethanol, 2- (7-aminopyrazolo [1 , 5-a] pyrimidin-3-y
  • Very particularly preferred developer components are selected from at least one compound from the group formed from p-phenylenediamine, p-toluenediamine, 2- (2-hydroxyethyl) -p-phenylenediamine, 2- (1, 2-dihydroxyethyl) -p phenylenediamine, N, N-bis (2-hydroxyethyl) -p-phenylenediamine, N- (4-amino-3-methylphenyl) -N- [3- (1 H -imidazol-1-yl) propyl] amine, N, N'-bis (2-hydroxyethyl) -N, N'-bis (4-aminophenyl) -1, 3-diamino-propan-2-ol, bis (2-hydroxy-5-aminophe - nyl) methane, 1, 3-bis- (2,5-diaminophenoxy) -propan-2-ol, N, N'-bis (4-aminophenyl)
  • the agent M1 comprises at least one developer component in a total amount of 0.005 to 5 wt .-%, preferably 0, 1 to 3 wt .-%, each based on the weight of the agent M1.
  • Coupler components do not form a significant color within the framework of the oxidative dyeing alone, but always require the presence of developer components. Therefore, it is preferred according to the invention that at least one developer component is additionally used when using at least one coupler component.
  • Coupler components according to the invention allow at least one substitution of a chemical residue of the coupler by the oxidized form of the developer component. This forms a covalent bond between the coupler and the developer component.
  • Couplers are preferably cyclic compounds which carry on cycle at least two groups selected from (i) optionally substituted amino groups and / or (ii) hydroxy groups. These groups are conjugated by a double bond system.
  • Coupler components according to the invention are preferably selected from the classes of m-aminophenol and / or its derivatives, m-diaminobenzene and / or derivatives thereof, o-diaminobenzene and / or derivatives thereof, naphthalene derivatives having at least one hydroxy group, di- or trihydroxybenzene and or derivatives thereof, pyridine derivatives, pyrimidine derivatives, monohydroxyindole derivatives and / or monoaminoindole derivatives, monohydroxyindoline derivatives and / or monoaminoindoline derivatives, pyrazolone derivatives, such as 1-phenyl-3-methylpyrazol-5-one, morpholine derivatives, such as 6-hydroxybenzomorpholine or 6-aminobenzomorpholine, quinoxaline derivatives such as 6-methyl-1,2,3,4-tetrahydroquinoxaline, as well as mixtures of two or more compounds from one or more of these classes.
  • Preferred m-aminophenol coupler components are selected from at least one compound from the group formed from m-aminophenol, 5-amino-2-methylphenol, N-cyclopentyl-3-aminophenol, 3-amino-2-chloro 6-methylphenol, 2-hydroxy-4-aminophenoxyethanol, 2,6-dimethyl-3-aminophenol, 3-trifluoroacetylamino-2-chloro-6-methylphenol, 5-amino-4-chloro-2-methylphenol, 5-amino 4-methoxy-2-methylphenol, 5- (2'-hydroxyethyl) amino-2-methylphenol, 3- (diethylamino) -phenol, N-cyclopentyl-3-aminophenol, 1, 3-dihydroxy-5- (methylamino) benzene, 3-ethylamino-4-methylphenol, 2,4-dichloro-3-aminophenol and their physiologically acceptable salts.
  • Preferred m-diaminobenzene coupler components are selected from at least one compound from the group formed from 2- (2,4-diaminophenoxy) ethanol, 1,3-bis (2,4-diaminophenoxy) propane, 1-methoxy 2-Amino-4- (2'-hydroxyethylamino) benzene, 1, 3-bis (2,4-diaminophenyl) propane, 2,6-bis (2'-hydroxyethylamino) -1-methylbenzene, 2- ⁇ 3 - [(2-Hydroxyethyl) amino] -4-methoxy-5-methylphenyl ⁇ amino) ethanol, 2 - ( ⁇ 3 - [(2-hydroxyethyl) amino] -2-methoxy-5-methylphenyl ⁇ amino ) ethanol, 2 - ( ⁇ 3 - [(2-hydroxyethyl) amino] -4,5-dimethylphenyl ⁇ amino) ethanol, 2- [3-morpholin-4-ylphenyl
  • Preferred o-diaminobenzene coupler components are selected from at least one compound selected from the group consisting of 3,4-diaminobenzoic acid and 2,3-diamino-1-methylbenzene and their physiologically acceptable salts.
  • Preferred di- or trihydroxybenzenes and their derivatives are selected from at least one compound of the group formed from resorcinol, resorcinol monomethyl ether, 2-methylresorcinol, 5-methylresorcinol, 2,5-dimethylresorcinol, 2-chlororesorcinol, 4-chlororesorcinol, pyrogallol and 1, 2,4-trihydroxybenzene.
  • Preferred pyridine derivatives are selected from at least one compound of the group formed from 2,6-dihydroxypyridine, 2-amino-3-hydroxypyridine, 2-amino-5-chloro-3-hydroxypyridine, 3-amino-2-methylamino 6-methoxypyridine, 2,6-dihydroxy-3,4-dimethylpyridine, 2,6-dihydroxy-4-methylpyridine, 2,6-diaminopyridine, 2,3-diamino-6-methoxypyridine, 3,5-diamino-2 , 6-dimethoxypyridine, 2,6-dihydroxy-3,4-dimethylpyridine, 3,4-diaminopyridine, 2- (2-methoxyethyl) amino-3-amino-6-methoxypyridine, 2- (4'-methoxyphenyl) amino-3-aminopyridine and their physiologically acceptable salts.
  • Preferred naphthalene derivatives having at least one hydroxy group are selected from at least one compound of the group formed from 1-naphthol, 2-methyl-1-naphthol, 2-hydroxy-methyl-1-naphthol, 2-hydroxyethyl-1-naphthol, 1 , 3-dihydroxynaphthalene, 1, 5-dihydroxynaphthalene, 1, 6-dihydroxynaphthalene, 1, 7-dihydroxynaphthalene, 1, 8-dihydroxynaphthalene, 2,7-dihydroxynaphthalene and 2,3-dihydroxynaphthalene.
  • Preferred indole derivatives are selected from at least one compound of the group formed from 4-hydroxyindole, 6-hydroxyindole and 7-hydroxyindole and their physiologically acceptable salts.
  • Preferred indoline derivatives are selected from at least one compound of the group formed from 4-hydroxyindoline, 6-hydroxyindoline and 7-hydroxyindoline and their physiologically acceptable salts.
  • Preferred pyrimidine derivatives are selected from at least one compound of the group formed from 4,6-diaminopyrimidine, 4-amino-2,6-dihydroxypyrimidine, 2,4-diamino-6-hydroxypyrimidine, 2,4,6-trihydroxypyrimidine, 2 -Amino-4-methylpyrimidine, 2-amino-4-hydroxy-6-methylpyrimidine and 4,6-dihydroxy-2-methylpyrimidine and their physiologically acceptable salts.
  • coupler components according to the invention are selected from m-aminophenol, 5-amino-2-methylphenol, N-cyclopentyl-3-aminophenol, 3-amino-2-chloro-6-methylphenol, 2-hydroxy-4-aminophenoxyethanol, 2 , 6-dimethyl-3-aminophenol, 3-trifluoroacetylamino-2-chloro-6-methylphenol, 5-amino-4-chloro-2-methylphenol, 5-amino-4-methoxy-2-methylphenol, 5- (2- Hydroxyethyl) amino-2-methylphenol, 3- (diethylamino) phenol, N-cyclopentyl-3-aminophenol, 1,3-dihydroxy-5- (methylamino) benzene, 3-ethylamino-4-methylphenol, 2, 4-dichloro-3-aminophenol, 2- (2,4-diaminophenoxy) ethanol, 1, 3-bis (2,4-diaminophenoxy) propane, 1-methoxy
  • the coupler components are preferably contained in an amount of 0.005 to 20 wt .-%, preferably 0.1 to 5 wt .-%, each based on the weight of M1.
  • developer components and coupler components are generally used in approximately equimolar amounts relative to one another. Even if the equimolar use as appropriate has proved, so a certain excess of individual oxidation dye precursors is not detrimental, so that developer components and coupler components in a molar ratio of 1: 0.5 to 1: 3, in particular 1: 1 to 1: 2, may be.
  • the agent may further add to the agent at least one substantive dye.
  • these dyes are dye molecules that attach directly to the substrate and do not require an oxidative process to form the paint.
  • These dyes include, for example, the henna already known from antiquity for coloring body and hair.
  • substantive dyes are usually nitrophenylenediamines, nitroaminophenols, azo dyes, anthraquinones or indophenols.
  • the substantive dyes are each preferably used in an amount of 0.001 to 10 wt .-%, each based on the composition according to the invention.
  • the total amount of substantive dyes is preferably at most 20% by weight.
  • Direct dyes can be subdivided into anionic, cationic and nonionic substantive dyes.
  • Preferred anionic substantive dyes are those under the international designations or trade names Acid Yellow 1, Yellow 10, Acid Yellow 23, Acid Yellow 36, Acid Orange 7, Acid Red 33, Acid Red 52, Pigment Red 57: 1, Acid Blue 7, Acid Green 50, Acid Violet 43, Acid Black 1 and Acid Black 52 as well as tetrabromophenol blue and bromophenol blue known compounds. Preferred cationic substantive dyes are included
  • aromatic systems substituted with a quaternary nitrogen group such as Basic Yellow 57, Basic Red 76, Basic Blue 99, Basic Brown 16 and Basic Brown 17, as well as
  • (C) substantive dyes containing a heterocycle having at least one quaternary nitrogen atom as mentioned for example in EP-A2-998 908, to which reference is explicitly made at this point in claims 6 to 1 1 are called.
  • the compounds also known as Basic Yellow 87, Basic Orange 31 and Basic Red 51 are most preferred cationic substantive dyes.
  • the cationic direct dyes which are sold under the trademark Arianor ®, according to the invention are also very particularly preferred cationic direct dyes.
  • Preferred nonionic substantive dyes are those under the international designations or trade names HC Yellow 2, HC Yellow 4, HC Yellow 5, HC Yellow 6, HC Yellow 12, HC Orange 1, Disperse Orange 3, HC Red 1, HC Red 3, HC Red 10, HC Red 1, HC Red 13, HC Red BN, HC Blue 2, HC Blue 1 1, HC Blue 12, Disperse Blue 3, HC Violet 1, Disperse Violet 1, Disperse Violet 4, Disperse Black 9 known compounds and 1,4-diamino-2-nitrobenzene, 2-amino-4-nitrophenol, 1,4-bis (2-hydroxyethyl) amino-2-nitrobenzene, 3-nitro-4- (2-hydroxyethyl) aminophenol, 2- (2-hydroxyethyl) amino-4,6-dinitrophenol, 4 - [(2-hydroxyethyl) amino] -3-nitro-1-methylbenzene, 1- Amino-4- (2-hydroxyethyl) amino-5-chloro-2-nitrobenzene, 4-amino-3-nitrophenol, 1- (2
  • direct dyes also naturally occurring dyes can be used, as for example in henna red, henna neutral, henna black, chamomile flower, sandalwood, black tea, buckthorn bark, sage, bluewood, madder root, catechu and alkano root are included.
  • the agents according to the invention contain at least one alkalizing agent, which may be inorganic or organic.
  • Preferred inorganic alkalizing agents are selected from the group consisting of ammonia or ammonium hydroxide, ie aqueous solutions of ammonia, sodium hydroxide, potassium hydroxide, calcium hydroxide, barium hydroxide, sodium phosphate, potassium phosphate, sodium silicate, potassium silicate, sodium carbonate and potassium carbonate and mixtures thereof.
  • Ammonia or ammonium hydroxide is a particularly preferred alkalizing agent. Ammonia is particularly preferably present in an amount of from 0.1 to 10% by weight, preferably 0.5 to 7% by weight, particularly preferably 1 to 4% by weight, based in each case on the weight of the dyeing composition M1.
  • Preferred organic alkalizing agents are selected from at least one alkanolamine.
  • Alkanolamines which are preferred according to the invention are selected from alkanolamines of primary, secondary or tertiary amines having a C2-C6-alkyl basic body which carries at least one hydroxyl group.
  • alkanolamines are selected from the group consisting of 2-aminoethane-1-ol (monoethanolamine), 3-aminopropan-1-ol, 4-aminobutan-1-ol, 5-aminopentan-1-ol, 1 - Aminopropan-2-ol (monoisopropanolamine), 1-aminobutan-2-ol, 1-aminopentan-2-ol, 1-aminopentan-3-ol, 1-aminopentan-4-ol, 2-amino-2-methyl propanol, 2-amino-2-methylbutanol, 3-amino-2-methylpropan-1-ol, 1-amino-2-methylpropan-2-ol, 3-aminopropane-1,2-diol, 2-amino 2-methylpropane-1, 3-diol, 2-amino-2-ethyl-1, 3-propanediol, ⁇ , ⁇ -dimethyl-ethanolamine, triethanolamine
  • Very particularly preferred alkanolamines according to the invention are selected from the group 2-aminoethane-1-ol (monoethanolamine), 2-amino-2-methylpropan-1-ol, 2-amino-2-methyl-propane-1,3-diol and triethanolamine , Particularly preferred agents include monoethanolamine as the alkanolamine.
  • the at least one alkanolamine in a total amount of 0.05 to 10 wt .-%, in particular from 0.5 to 6 wt .-%, particularly preferably 1 - 3 wt .-%, each based on the weight of the dyeing composition M1 contain.
  • organic alkalizing agents are selected from basic amino acids, more preferably selected from the group consisting of L-arginine, D-arginine, D / L-arginine, L-lysine, D-lysine, D / L-lysine and Mixtures thereof.
  • Basic amino acids which are particularly preferred according to the invention are selected from L-arginine, D-arginine and D / L-arginine.
  • Preferred agents according to the invention comprise at least one alkalizing agent other than alkanolamines and ammonia in a total amount of from 0.05 to 5 Wt .-%, in particular from 0.5 to 3 wt .-%, each based on the weight of the dyeing composition M1.
  • the dyeing compositions M1 used according to the invention comprise a mixture of ammonia and at least one alkanolamine and optionally at least one further alkalizing agent other than alkanolamines and ammonia.
  • the pH of the dyeing compositions M1 used according to the invention is preferably 8 to 13, more preferably 9.5 to 12, particularly preferably 10 to 11.5 and even more preferably 10.5 to 11.
  • the dyeing compositions M1 used according to the invention are in the form of a creamy oil-in-water emulsion.
  • the dyeing compositions M1 used according to the invention which are present as oil-in-water emulsion, in a total amount of 2 to 20, preferably 5 to 15 wt .-%, based on the weight of M1, at least one linear saturated alkanol having 12 to 30 carbon atoms, in particular 16 to 22 carbon atoms, in particular cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, arachidyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol and lanolin alcohol or mixtures of these alcohols, as obtainable in the industrial hydrogenation of vegetable and animal fatty acids, and mixtures of these alkanols, in particular the mixture cetearyl alcohol.
  • the dyeing compositions M1 used according to the invention which are present as an oil-in-water emulsion, comprise in a total amount of from 0.5 to 8, preferably from 3 to 6,% by weight, based on the weight of M1 a partial ester of a polyol having 2-6 C atoms and linear saturated fatty acids having 12-30, in particular 14-22 C atoms, which may be hydroxylated.
  • Such partial esters are in particular the mono- and diesters of glycerol or the monoesters of propylene glycol or the mono- or diesters of ethylene glycol or the mono-, di-, tri- and tetra-esters of pentaerythritol, each with linear saturated C 12 -C 30 -carboxylic acids which hydroxylates in particular those with palmitic and stearic acid, the sorbitan mono-, di- or triesters of linear saturated C 12 -C 30 -carboxylic acids which may be hydroxylated, in particular those of myristic acid, palmitic acid, stearic acid or of mixtures of these fatty acids and Methyl glucose mono- and diesters of linear saturated C12-C3o-carboxylic acids which may be hydroxylated.
  • the dyeing compositions M1 used according to the invention which are present as an oil-in-water emulsion, comprise at least one polyol partial ester in a total amount of 0.5 to 8, preferably 3 to 6,% by weight, based on the weight of M1.
  • glycerol monostearate selected from glycerol monostearate, glycerol monopalmitate, glycerol distearate, glycerol dipalmitate, ethylene glycol monosteate, ethylene glycol monopalmitate, ethylene glycol distearate, ethylene glycol dipalmitate, and mixtures thereof, in particular mixtures of glycerol monostearate, glycerol monopalmitate, glyceryl distearate and glycerol dipalmitate.
  • the inventively used include Dyeing compositions M1, which are present as an oil-in-water emulsion, in a total amount of 0.5 to 6, preferably 1 to 4,% by weight, based on the weight of M1, of at least one ethoxylated nonionic surfactant. It has proven to be particularly advantageous if the ethoxylated nonionic surfactant has an HLB value above 10, preferably above 13. For this it is necessary that the nonionic surfactant has a sufficiently high degree of ethoxylation.
  • a further particularly preferred embodiment of the first subject of the invention is therefore characterized in that the dyeing compositions M1 used according to the invention contain as ethoxylated nonionic surfactant at least one ethoxylated surfactant having at least 12 ethylene oxide units.
  • the dyeing compositions M1 used according to the invention contain as ethoxylated nonionic surfactant at least one ethoxylated surfactant having at least 12 ethylene oxide units.
  • the addition products of 20 to 60 mol of ethylene oxide with castor oil and hydrogenated castor oil are particularly suitable according to the invention.
  • the at least one ethoxylated nonionic surfactant is preferably selected from surfactants having the INCI name ceteth-12, steareth-12, ceteareth-12, ceteth-20, steareth-20, ceteareth-20, ceteth-30, steareth-30, ceteareth- 30, Oleth-30, Ceteareth-50, PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil and PEG-60 Hydrogenated Castor Oil and mixtures of these substances, more preferably selected from Ceteth-20, Steareth-20, Ceteareth-20, Ceteth-30, Steareth-30 and Ceteareth-30.
  • the dyeing compositions M1 used according to the invention which are present as an oil-in-water emulsion, comprise in a total amount of from 0.5 to 6, preferably from 1 to 4,% by weight, based on the weight of M1 an anionic surfactant.
  • anionic surfactants according to the invention are particularly preferred
  • Alkyl sulfates and alkyl polyglycol ether sulfates of the formula R-O (CH 2 -CH 2 O) x -OSO 3 H, in which R is a preferably linear alkyl group having 8 to 30 C atoms and x 0 or 1 to 12,
  • Ethercarbon Acid the formula R-0- (CH2-CH20) x-CH2-COOH, where R is a linear
  • Alkyl group having 8 to 30 carbon atoms and x 0 or 1 to 16.
  • an anionic surfactant selected from alkyl sulfates and alkyl polyglycol ether sul
  • the dyeing compositions M1 used according to the invention which are present as an oil-in-water emulsion, comprise in a total amount of from 0.05 to 2% by weight, particularly preferably from 0.1 to 0.5% by weight. , in each case based on the weight of M1, at least one cationic or amphoteric polymer selected from the compounds having the INCI name "Polyquaternium.” Especially preferred are Polyquaternium-4, Polyquaternium-5, Polyquaternium-6, Polyquaternium-7, Polyquaternium-10, Polyquaternium-11 , Polyquaternium-22, Polyquaternium-37 and Polyquaternium-39, most preferred are Polyquaternium-22, Polyquaternium-37 and Polyquaternium-39, Polyquaternium-39 is most preferred.
  • the dyeing compositions M1 used according to the invention which are present as an oil-in-water emulsion, comprise a total amount of 0.05 to 2, preferably 0.1 to 1,% by weight, based on the weight of M1 , at least one polymeric thickener.
  • the oxidizing agent compositions M2 used according to the invention in a total amount of 0.05 to 2, preferably 0, 1 to 1 wt .-%, based on the weight of M2, at least one polymeric thickener.
  • Examples of preferred polymeric thickeners according to the invention for both M1 and M2 are: acrylates copolymer, acrylamide copolymer, acrylamide / sodium acrylate copolymer, acrylamide / sodium acryloyldimethyltaurate copolymer, acrylates / acetoacetoxyethyl methacrylate copolymer, acrylates / beheneth-25 methacrylate copolymer, acrylates / C 10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer, Acrylates / Ceteth-20 Itaconate Copolymer, Acrylates / Ceteth-20 Methacrylate Copolymer, Acrylates / Laureth-25 Methacrylate Copolymer, Acrylates / Palmeth-25 Acrylate Copolymer, Acrylates / Palmeth-25 Itaconate Copolymer, Acrylates / Steareth-50 Acrylate Copolymer, Acrylates / Steareth-20 Itaconate
  • a polymer which is very particularly preferred according to the invention is a copolymer of two or more monomers selected from acrylic acid, methacrylic acid and their esters with C 1 -C 4 -alkyl groups.
  • a polymer which is very particularly preferred according to the invention is the copolymer of two or more monomers, known under the INCI name Acrylates Copolymer, selected from acrylic acid, methacrylic acid and their esters with C 1 -C 4 -alkyl groups.
  • Another very particularly preferred polymer according to the invention is carbomer, a cross-linked acrylic acid homopolymer.
  • Further polymers which are very particularly preferred according to the invention are methacrylic acid-free copolymers of acrylic acid and acrylic acid C 1 -C 4 esters.
  • the dyeing compositions M1 used according to the invention which are present as an oil-in-water emulsion, comprise a total amount of 0.05 to 2, preferably 0.1 to 1,% by weight, based on the weight of M1 , at least one polymeric thickener selected from carbomer.
  • the oxidizing agent compositions used according to the invention M2 in a total amount of 0.05 to 2, preferably 0, 1 to 1 wt .-%, based on the weight of M2, at least one polymeric thickener selected from carbomer and copolymers two or more monomers selected from acrylic acid, methacrylic acid and their esters with Ci-C4-alkyl groups, and mixtures thereof.
  • the oxidizing agent compositions M2 used according to the invention comprise, by weight in each case, 40-98% by weight, preferably 70-91% by weight of water, furthermore 0.5-20% by weight, preferably 2-12% by weight. Hydrogen peroxide and at least one acid. Preferred acids are selected from dipicolinic acid, edible acids such as citric acid, acetic acid, malic acid, lactic acid and tartaric acid, dilute mineral acids such as hydrochloric acid, phosphoric acid and sulfuric acid, and mixtures thereof.
  • the oxidizing agent compositions M2 preferably have a pH in the range from 2 to 5, preferably 3 to 4.
  • the oxidizing agent compositions used according to the invention comprise M2 in a total amount of from 0.1 to 10, preferably 0.5 to 5,% by weight, particularly preferably 1 to 4,% by weight, based in each case on the weight of M2 at least one linear saturated alkanol having 12 to 30 carbon atoms, in particular 16 to 22 carbon atoms, in particular cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, arachidyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol and lanolin alcohol or mixtures of these alcohols, as obtainable in the industrial hydrogenation of vegetable and animal fatty acids, and mixtures thereof Alkanols, especially the mixture cetearyl alcohol.
  • the oxidizing agent compositions used in accordance with the invention comprise M2 in a total amount of from 0.1 to 10, preferably from 0.5 to 5,% by weight, particularly preferably from 1 to 4,% by weight, based in each case on the weight of M2, at least one ethoxylated nonionic surfactant, which is preferably selected from surfactants having the INCI name ceteth-12, steareth-12, ceteareth-12, ceteth-20, steareth-20, ceteareth-20, ceteth-30, steareth-30 , Ceteareth-30, Oleth-30, Ceteareth-50, PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil and PEG-60 Hydrogenated Castor Oil, and mixtures of these substances, especially preferred selected from Ceteth-20, Steareth-20, Ceteareth-20, Ceteth-30, Steareth-30 and Ceteareth-30.
  • the oxidizing agent compositions used according to the invention contain M2 in a total amount of 0.05 to 2, preferably 0.1 to 1 wt .-%, particularly preferably 0.3 to 0.7 wt .-%, in each case on the weight of M2, at least one cationic surfactant.
  • Preferred cationic surfactants have the formula (Tkat1-1).
  • R1, R2, R3 and R4 each independently represent hydrogen, a methyl group, a phenyl group, a benzyl group, a saturated, branched or unbranched alkyl group having a chain length of 8 to 30 carbon atoms optionally substituted with one or more hydroxy groups.
  • A is a physiologically acceptable anion, for example halides such as chloride or bromide and methosulfates.
  • Examples of preferred compounds of formula (Tkat1-1) are lauryltrimethylammonium chloride, cetyltrimethylammonium chloride, cetyltrimethylammonium bromide, cetyltrimethylammonium methosulfate, dicetyl dimethyl ammonium chloride, tricetyl methyl ammonium chloride, Stearyltrimethyl-ammonium chloride, distearyldimethylammonium chloride, lauryldimethylbenzylammonium chloride, behenyl trimethyl ammonium chloride, methosulfate and Behenyltrimethylammoniumbromid Behenyltrimethyl-ammonium.
  • cationic surfactants have the formula (Tkat1-2).
  • radicals R1, R2 and R3 are each independently and may be the same or different.
  • the radicals R1, R2 and R3 mean:
  • branched or unbranched alkyl radical having 1 to 4 carbon atoms, which may contain at least one hydroxyl group, or
  • aryl or alkaryl radical for example phenyl or benzyl
  • radical (--X - R4) with the proviso that at most 2 of the radicals R1, R2 or R3 can stand for this radical:
  • n 1 to 200, preferably 1 to 100, particularly preferably 1 to 50, and particularly preferably 1 to 20 with R 5 in the meaning of hydrogen, methyl or ethyl,
  • -X- a hydroxyalkyl group of one to four carbon atoms, which may be branched or unbranched, and which contains at least one and at most 3 hydroxy groups.
  • -X- are: -CHOH, -CHCH2OH, -CH2CHOH, -COHCHOH, -CHOHCOH, -CHCHOHCH3, -CH2COHCH3, -CH2CHOHCH2-, -C (CH 2 OH) 2, -CH2CHOHCH2OH, -CH2CH2CHOH, -CH2COHCH3 and Hydroxybutylreste, wherein the bond of -X- to R4 emanates from the free valency of the carbon atom in question and R4 stands for:
  • R6-0-CO- wherein R6 is a saturated or unsaturated, branched or unbranched or cyclic saturated or unsaturated alkyl radical having 6 to 30 carbon atoms, which may contain at least one hydroxy group, and which optionally further with 1 to 100 ethylene oxide units and or 1 to 100 propylene oxide units can be ethoxylated, or
  • R7-CO- wherein R7 is a saturated or unsaturated, branched or unbranched or cyclic saturated or unsaturated alkyl radical having 6 to 30 carbon atoms, which may contain at least one hydroxy group, and which optionally further with 1 to 100 ethylene oxide units and / or 1 to 100 propylene oxide units can be ethoxylated,
  • A represents a physiologically acceptable organic or inorganic anion and is defined here as representative of all structures also described below.
  • the anion of all described cationic compounds is selected from the halide ions, fluoride, chloride, bromide, iodide, sulfates of the general formula RSO3 " , wherein R has the meaning of saturated or unsaturated alkyl radicals having 1 to 4 carbon atoms, or anionic radicals of organic acids such as maleate , Fumarate, oxalate, tartrate, citrate, lactate or acetate.
  • Such products are marketed under the trademarks Rewoquat ®, Stepantex® ®, dehydrogenation quart ®, ® and Armocare® Akypoquat ®.
  • the products Armocare ® VGH-70, Dehyquart ® F-75, Dehyquart ® C-4046, Dehyquart ® L80, Dehyquart ® F-30, Dehyquart ® AU-35, Rewoquat ® WE 18, Rewoquat WE38 ® DPG, Stepantex ® VS 90 and Akypoquat ® 131 are examples of these ester quats.
  • R8 corresponds in its meaning R7.
  • esterquats with tradenames Armocare ® VGH-70 are, as well as Dehyquart ® F-75, Dehyquart ® L80, Stepantex ® VS 90 and Akypoquat ® 131st
  • Tkat2 Another group are quaternary imidazoline compounds.
  • the formula (Tkat2) shown below shows the structure of these compounds.
  • the radicals R independently of one another each represent a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched hydrocarbon radical having a chain length of 8 to 30 carbon atoms.
  • the preferred compounds of the formula (Tkat2) contain for R the same hydrocarbon radical.
  • the chain length of the radicals R is preferably 12 to 21 carbon atoms.
  • A is an anion as previously described. Examples according to the invention are obtainable, for example, under the INCI names Quaternium-27, Quaternium-72, Quaternium-83 and Quaternium-91. Quaternium-91 is most preferred according to the invention.
  • Another preferred cationic surfactant is an amidoamine and / or a cationized amidoamine having the following structural formulas:
  • R 1 is an acyl or alkyl radical having 6 to 30 C atoms, which may be branched or unbranched, saturated or unsaturated, and wherein the acyl radical and / or the alkyl radical may contain at least one OH group, and
  • R2, R3 and R4 are each independently
  • hydroxyalkyl group having one to four carbon atoms having at least one and at most three hydroxy groups, for example -CH 2 OH, -CH 2 CH 2 OH, -CHOHCHOH, -CH 2 CHOHCH 3, -CH (CH 2 OH) 2 , -COH (CH 2 OH) 2 , -CH 2 CHOHCH 2 OH, -CH 2 CH 2 CH 2 OH and hydroxybutyl radicals, and
  • A is an anion as previously described and
  • n is an integer between 1 and 10.
  • the alkylamidoamines can both be present as such and converted by protonation in a correspondingly acidic solution into a quaternary compound in the composition. According to the invention, the cationic alkylamidoamines are preferred.
  • Witcamine ® 100 Incromine ® BB, Mackine ® 401 and other Mackine ® grades, Adogen ® S18V, and as a permanent cationic aminoamines: Rewoquat ® RTM 50, Empigen ® CSC, Swanol ® Lanoquat DES-50 , Rewoquat ® UTM 50, Schercoquat® ® BAS ® Lexquat AMG-BEO, or Incroquat ® behenyl HE.
  • the oxidizing agent compositions used according to the invention contain M2
  • At least one ethoxylated nonionic surfactant which is preferably selected from Surfactants having the INCI name ceteth-12, steareth-12, ceteareth-12, ceteth-20, steareth-20, ceteareth-20, ceteth-30, steareth-30, ceteareth-30, oleth-30, ceteareth-50, PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil and PEG-60 Hydrogenated Castor Oil and mixtures of these substances, most preferably selected from Ceteth-20, Steareth-20, Ceteareth-20, Ceteth-30, Steareth-30 and Ceteareth-30, as well as
  • At least one cationic surfactant preferably is selected from at least one cationic surfactant of the formula (Tkat1-1),
  • R 1, R 2, R 3 and R 4 each independently represent hydrogen, a methyl group, a phenyl group, a benzyl group, a saturated, branched or unbranched alkyl group having a chain length of 8 to 30 carbon atoms which may be optionally substituted with one or more hydroxy groups may be, and
  • A is a physiologically acceptable anion, such as halides such as chloride or bromide, and methosulfates, stands.
  • Surfactants in the sense of the present application are amphiphilic (bifunctional) compounds which consist of at least one hydrophobic and at least one hydrophilic moiety.
  • the hydrophobic moiety is preferably a hydrocarbon chain of 8-28 carbon atoms, which may be saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched. Most preferably, this C8-C28 alkyl chain is linear.
  • the hydrophilic moiety is preferably a polyethylene oxide group having at least 2 EO units or an acid group.
  • the dyeing compositions M1 used according to the invention are in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion and contain, based in each case on the weight of M1, cetearyl alcohol in a total amount of 2 to 20% by weight, preferably 5 to 15% by weight, furthermore mixtures of glycerol monostearate, glycerol monopalmitate, glyceryl distearate and glycerol dipalmitate in a total amount of 0.5-8% by weight, preferably 3 to 6% by weight, based on the weight of M1
  • ethoxylated nonionic surfactant selected from Ceteth-20, Steareth-20, Ceteareth-20, Ceteth-30, Steareth-30 and Ceteareth-30, and
  • kits for oxidative hair coloring comprising:
  • an oxidizer composition M2 which, based on the weight of M2, contains 40-98 parts by weight
  • a hair conditioning composition M3 containing, by weight of M3,
  • compositions M1, M2 and M3 contains dimethiconol.
  • composition of the dyeing composition M1 oil-in-water emulsion, all amounts in% by weight
  • Oxidizing agent composition M2 (all amounts in% by weight)
  • Hair conditioning composition V-3 (all amounts in% by weight), not according to the invention
  • 60 g of Dyeing Composition M1 was mixed with 60 g of Oxidizing Composition M2 to form a homogeneous cream, the ready-to-use dye.
  • 60 g of the dyeing composition M1 were first mixed with the amount of hair conditioning composition M3 indicated in the table above and then mixed with 60 g of the oxidizing agent composition M2 to give a homogeneous cream, the ready-to-use colorants.
  • 60 g of dyeing composition M1 was first mixed with the amount of hair conditioning composition V-3 indicated in the table above and then mixed with 60 g of oxidizing agent composition M2 to form a homogeneous cream, the ready-to-use dye.
  • the ready-to-use colorants were each applied in a defined amount to Yakhaar streaks and remained on the hair tresses for a period of 30 minutes at room temperature. The remainder was then rinsed with lukewarm water from the hair strands for 2 minutes each, and the strands were first dried with a towel and then dry-blown.
  • Example # 1 All tresses were measured with a colorimeter from Datacolor, type Spectraflash 450. The E value for Example # 1 served as the reference value. In comparison thereto, the streaks stained with staining agents No. 2, 3 and 4 according to the staining method according to the invention showed a significantly lower color shift than the non-inventive dimethiconol-containing Example No. 5.
  • the scrupulousness of the hair was subjectively evaluated by several trained test persons

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Abstract

La présente invention concerne un procédé de teinture capillaire oxydative dans lequel on utilise une ou plusieurs substances de soin sélectionnées qui ne provoquent pas de décalage de la teinte ou seulement un décalage minimal. L'invention concerne en outre un kit correspondant de teinture de fibres contenant de la kératine.
PCT/EP2014/074916 2013-12-13 2014-11-18 Procédé de teinture capillaire oxydative utilisant des substances de soin avec un décalage de teinte minimal WO2015086268A1 (fr)

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DE102013225924.7 2013-12-13
DE102013225924.7A DE102013225924A1 (de) 2013-12-13 2013-12-13 Oxidatives Haarfärbeverfahren unter Einsatz von Pflegestoffen und minimaler Farbverschiebung

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WO2017016719A1 (fr) * 2015-07-28 2017-02-02 Henkel Ag & Co. Kgaa Procédé d'éclaircissement à l'aide de composés de siloxane spéciaux
CN106491421A (zh) * 2016-11-03 2017-03-15 江城中澳农业科技发展有限公司 一种澳洲坚果壳天然染发剂及其制备方法
US11026888B1 (en) * 2019-01-04 2021-06-08 Nutrition Therapeutics, Inc. Functional beverage compositions and methods of using and making same
CN115418852A (zh) * 2021-10-28 2022-12-02 青岛融美发制品集团有限公司 一种新型假发用护理膏及其制备方法

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FR3127400A1 (fr) * 2021-09-30 2023-03-31 L'oreal Procédé de coloration et/ou d’éclaircissement des fibres kératiniques comprenant une étape de coloration et/ou d’éclaircissement des fibres kératiniques et une étape de traitement des fibres kératiniques par une composition comprenant au moins une huile végétale.

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Cited By (6)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
WO2017016719A1 (fr) * 2015-07-28 2017-02-02 Henkel Ag & Co. Kgaa Procédé d'éclaircissement à l'aide de composés de siloxane spéciaux
US10835478B2 (en) 2015-07-28 2020-11-17 Henkel Ag & Co. Kgaa Lightening method using special siloxane compounds
CN106491421A (zh) * 2016-11-03 2017-03-15 江城中澳农业科技发展有限公司 一种澳洲坚果壳天然染发剂及其制备方法
CN106491421B (zh) * 2016-11-03 2019-11-15 江城中澳农业科技发展有限公司 一种澳洲坚果壳天然染发剂及其制备方法
US11026888B1 (en) * 2019-01-04 2021-06-08 Nutrition Therapeutics, Inc. Functional beverage compositions and methods of using and making same
CN115418852A (zh) * 2021-10-28 2022-12-02 青岛融美发制品集团有限公司 一种新型假发用护理膏及其制备方法

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