WO2015080521A1

WO2015080521A1 - Hair cosmetic composition having lamellar liquid crystal structure

Info

Publication number: WO2015080521A1
Application number: PCT/KR2014/011573
Authority: WO
Inventors: 황윤균; 김종협; 최장원; 김왕기
Original assignee: 주식회사 아모레퍼시픽
Priority date: 2013-11-29
Filing date: 2014-11-28
Publication date: 2015-06-04

Abstract

The present invention relates to a hair cosmetic composition for longer lasting hair softness, and more specifically, to a hair cosmetic composition readily adsorbed to the surface of hair and is for longer lasting hair softness by using a sorbitan-based surfactant to form a lamellar liquid crystal structure.

Description

【Specification】

[Name of invention]

Cosmetic composition for hair having a lamellar liquid crystal structure

Technical Field

The present invention relates to a cosmetic composition for hair which has a high sustainability of hair softness, and more particularly, to a hair cosmetic composition having an increased adsorption of hair softness while being easily adsorbed onto the surface of the hair by forming a lamellar liquid crystal structure using a specific surfactant. It is about.

Background Art

Existing products were hair, apply the ^{spreadability,} superior silicone oil on the hair to make the hair smoother. However, damaged hair is in a state of charge, so non-polar materials such as silicon are not easily adsorbed on the damaged hair, and thus have not achieved satisfactory results in imparting desired properties to the hair.

Meanwhile, in the cosmetic field, when preparing and using a composition forming a multi-lamellar structure, such a composition is known to play an important role in skin moisturizing and barrier function. This is a kind of valve structure oil painting composed of phospholipids As a form, it is due to the structural characteristics of the lamella structure, in which the oil worm and the water phase layer are stacked in order.

When the liquid crystal phase is formed, the viscosity of the emulsified particles is increased and structurally stable, and the lamellar structure thus formed serves as a barrier having a high moisturizing property in comparison with general 0 / W and W / 0 structures.

In general, the emulsion structure has a water content of 0 / W. The water content of the trauma is evaporated and the balance of the emulsion is broken and its function is considerably reduced. In addition, the W / 0 phase is suitable for solving this problem, but has a disadvantage in that it is inferior. On the other hand, the lamellar structure has a good structure that can solve both of them because the oil layer and the aqueous layer are composed of multiple layers.

[Detailed Description of the Invention]

[Technical Problem] Accordingly, the present inventors have attempted to provide a hair cosmetic composition having improved adsorption to the hair surface by using a material having a lamellar liquid crystal structure, and found that this can be achieved by using a specific surfactant. To complete. Therefore, an object of the present invention is to have a lamellar liquid crystal structure to improve the adsorption force to the hair to improve the applicability to the hair, and also to provide the softness It is to provide a cosmetic composition for hair with increased sustainability.

Technical Solution

In order to achieve the above object, the present invention is higher aliphatic alcohol; And it provides a hair cosmetic composition comprising a liquid crystal formed by using at least one selected from the group consisting of sorbethane-based surfactants, glucose-based surfactants and lecithin-based surfactants. Advantageous Effects

The cosmetic composition for hair of the present invention is improved in the adsorption power to the hair so that the softness of the hair can be maintained for a long time.

[Brief Description of Drawings]

BRIEF DESCRIPTION OF THE DRAWINGS The polarization microscope observation photograph of the (Example 3) when the sorbitan type surfactant is used (the lower part photograph was observed using polarization).

Fig. 2 shows a polarized light microscope observation photograph in the case of using a glucose-based surfactant (Example 6) (the lower end photograph was observed using polarized light).

3 is a polarization microscope when using a lecithin-based surfactant (Example 9) The observation photograph is shown (the lower photograph was observed using polarization). Fig. 4 shows a polarized light microscope observation photograph in the case of using a lecithin-based surfactant (Example 12) (the lower end photograph was observed using polarized light).

Fig. 5 shows a polarized light microscope observation photograph in the case of not using a specific surfactant of the present invention (Comparative Example 2) (the lower end photograph was observed using polarized light). FIG. 6 shows the polarization microscope observation photograph when the specific surfactant of this invention is not used (Comparative Example 4) (The lower part photograph was observed using polarization).

FIG. 7 shows the polarization microscope observation photograph when the specific surfactant of the present invention is not used (Comparative Example 5) (the lower portion photograph was observed using polarization). FIG. 8 is a photograph showing the adsorption force of the composition (Example 3) according to the present invention on hair.

9 shows the difference in contact angles between normal hair and damaged hair.

Figure 10 shows the change in contact angle according to the number of times after applying the composition according to the invention (Example 3) to the hair.

FIG. 11 shows the results of analyzing the amount of perfume components remaining in the hairtress by gas chromatography (GC) after using the treatment compositions of Example 9 and Comparative Example 5. Order of Example 9). 12 is a result of evaluating the odor intensity remaining in the hairtress over time after using the treatment compositions of Example 9 and Comparative Example 5. The best form for the implementation of the invention

The present invention is higher aliphatic alcohol; And one or more selected from the group consisting of sorbitan-based surfactants, glucose-based surfactants, and lecithin-based surfactants, and for hair in which the entire structure forms a lamellar liquid crystal structure by self-association of the used surfactants. It provides a cosmetic composition.

Hereinafter, the present invention will be described in more detail.

Damaged hair is charged differently from normal hair, so polar materials such as moisture are attracted, while nonpolar materials such as silicon do not adhere well.

However, the hair composition provided in the present invention has a lamellar liquid crystal structure, and due to its structural characteristics, the hydrophobic polymer membrane promotes adsorption on the hair surface, thereby increasing the lipophilic properties of the hair, and thus increasing the adhesion of silicon. do.

The higher aliphatic alcohols that can be used to form the lamellar liquid crystal structure in the composition of the present invention include cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, Cetearyl alcohol (Cetearyl Alcohol) and behenyl alcohol (Behenyl alcohol) may be one or more selected from the group consisting of, but is not limited thereto.

In addition, the higher aliphatic alcohol in the present invention is preferably used in an amount of 0.1-10% by weight, preferably 2-10% by weight based on the total weight of the composition. This is because if the content is less than 0.1% by weight, the emulsification is structurally unstable, and if the content is more than 10% by weight, the viscosity is too high and the application property is inconvenient due to the poor viscosity.

In the composition of the present invention, sorbitan-based, glucose-based and lecithin-based surfactants are used to form a lamellar liquid crystal structure.

Specifically, sorbitan-based surfactants may be used such as cetearyl oleate * sorbitan oleate, sorbitan sesquilate, sorbitan stearate * sorbital laurate.

In addition, a glucose-based surfactant may be C14-22 alcohol * C12-20 alkyl glucoside, cetearyl alcohol * cetearyl glucoside, arachidyl alcohol * behenyl alcohol * arachidyl glucoside.

In addition, the lecithin-based surfactants are hydrogenity lecithin * C12-16 alcohol * palmitic acid, hydrosenity lecithin (cosmetic raw material standard (organization)); cured lecithin (also known as quasi-drugs and test method (KQO) Lecithin (ICID), soybean phospholipid (KSCI), KQC) and the like can be used.

In addition, in the present invention, the surfactant may be used in an amount of 0.1 to 15% by weight, preferably 2 to 10% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition. This is because when the content is less than 0.1 wt%, the liquid crystal structure stability is poor or crystals are formed by aliphatic alcohol, and when the content is more than 15 wt%, crystals of the surfactant start to form and are common with the lamellar structure.

In addition, the composition of the present invention may further use a commercially available liquid crystal forming composite, for example, products such as NIKKOL Nikkomulese LC (manufactured by NIKKO CHEMICALS CO., LTD) may be used.

In addition, the lamellar liquid crystal structure used in the present invention may be formed by a homomixer or an azimixer commonly used in the art.

The hair cosmetic composition of the present invention has good applicability to the hair, can impart softness and smoothness to the hair, and the adsorption power to the hair surface is increased, so that the imparted properties can be sustained for a long time. In particular, when a lecithin-based surfactant is used, adsorption on the surface of the hair is facilitated by the lamellar liquid crystal structure, thereby enhancing the sustainability of the perfume, which is an oil in the formulation.

There is no particular limitation in formulating the hair cosmetic composition of the present invention, hair tonic, hair nourishing cosmetics, hair essence, hair serum scalp treatment, It may be a cosmetic composition having a formulation such as a hair treatment, a hair conditioner, a hair shampoo or a hair lotion.

In addition, in each formulation, other ingredients in addition to the above-mentioned essential ingredients can be suitably selected and blended by those skilled in the art without difficulty according to the kind or purpose of use of other external preparations.

[Form for implementation of invention]

Hereinafter, the present invention will be described in more detail with reference to the following examples and test examples, but the present invention is not limited only to these examples.

Reference Example 1 Preparation of Hair Treatment (Examples 1 to 12 and Preparation of Compositions of Comparative Examples 1 to 5)

According to the compositions shown in Tables 1 and 2 below, hair treatments of Examples 1 to 12 and Comparative Examples 1 to 5 were prepared by a conventional method using a homomixer. Higher aliphatic alcohols such as cetyl alcohol (ELOCOL C1698 (98% C16), LG Household Health Products), stearyl alcohol (ELOCOL C1899 (99% C18), LG Household Health Products) and cetearyl alcohol are used According to the type, the texture and conditioning effects of the formulations such as viscosity and hardness are different, so used in various combination ratios. In addition, Examples 1 to 3 included cetearyl olivate * sorbitan oleate (Olivem 1000; manufactured by B & T Company), a sorbitan-based surfactant; Examples 4-6 contained C14-22 alcohol * C12-20 alkylglucoside (montanov L; manufactured by Seppic), which is a glucose-based surfactant, and Examples 7-9 were hydrogenetirecithin *, a lecithin-based surfactant. C12-

16 alcohols * palmitic acid (BIOPHILIC H; manufactured by Lucas Meyer Cosmetics), and Examples 10 to 12 included lecithin-based surfactant hydrogenetirecithin (Lipoid S75-3; manufactured by Lipoid Co.).

Table 1

(Unit: weight%)

C14-22 Alcohol * C12- ᅳ--3 3 3---20 Alkyl glucoside

Hydrogenated

Lecithin * C12- ᅳ--ᅳ--3 3 3

16 Alcohols * Palmetica

Seed

D cetearyl alcohol ᅳ-3--3--3 stearyl alcohol 3--3--3-ᅳ cetyl alcohol- ^■ 3-ᅳ 3 一-3-

7 Dimethicone 10 10 10 10 10 10 10 10 10

8 Phenoxyethanol 0.3 0.3 0.3 0.3 0.3 0.3 0.3 0.3 0.3 0.3

9 way 0.3 0.3 0.3 0.3 0.3 0.3 0.3 0.3 0.3

[Table 2]

(Unit: weight ¾) Conduct Conduct Comparison Comparison Comparison Comparison Comparison Comparison Example Example 10 Example 11 Example 12 Example 1 Example 2 Example 3 Example 4 Example 5

1 To To To To To To To To To

Purified water

100 100 100 100 100 100 100 100

2 glycerin 2 2 2 2 2 2 2 2 2

3 Behentrimonium Chlora

Droid,

1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 Behentrimonium Chloride

(KQC)

4 stearmonium claw

Ride (KSCI),

0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 stearmonium chloride

Water (KQC)

5 Hydrogenated

3 3 3---―-Lecithin

6 cetearyl alcohol--3----3

Stearyl alcohol 3--3 3-1-cetyl alcohol-3--1 3 3 ―

7 Dimethicone 10 10 10 10 10 10 10 10

8 phenoxyethane 0.3 0.3 0.3 0.3 0.3 0.3 0.3 0.3 9 way 0.3 0.3 0.3 0.3 0.3 0.3 0.3 0.3

1. combined uniformly wave the raw material ^1-5 and heated to 75 ^° C.

2. The combined uniformly common raw material ^6-8 and heated to 75 ^° C.

3. The mixture of 1 is added to the mixture of 2, and mixed with a mixture mixer.

4. After mixing the mixture of 3 to 40 ^° C., the raw material 9 is mixed, and cooled to 30 ^° C.

Test Example 1 Observation of Liquid Crystal Formation

Examples 1 to 12 and Comparative Examples 1 to 5 prepared in Reference Example 1 were observed using a polarizing microscope NIKON ECLIPSE 80i (Nikon, Japan) to form a lamellar liquid crystal.

In Examples 1 to 12 prepared in Reference Example 1, when observed with a polarization microscope, a mal tese cross was generally observed. Regarding this, representatively, observation results for Examples 3, 6, 9, and 12 are shown in FIGS. 1 to 4.

On the other hand, when the specific surfactant used in the present invention was not used, no maltese cross form was observed, and there was no significant difference in the presence or absence of liquid crystal formation depending on the type and ratio of the higher aliphatic alcohol. In this regard, Representatively, observation results for Comparative Examples 2, 4 and 5 are shown in FIGS. 5 to 7. Test Example 2 Sensory Evaluation

The hair treatments of Examples 1 to 12 and Comparative Examples 1 to 5 were subjected to sensory evaluation in the following manner.

Ten expert evaluation personnel were allowed to use the hair treatments of Examples 1 to 12 and Comparative Examples 1 to 5, and then the comparison test was performed on the evaluation items shown in Tables 3 and 4 below, and the lowest score was obtained. Was set to 1 and the highest score was set to 7 for the test. Persistence was assessed 24 hours after use.

Table 3

Table 4 Examples Examples Examples Comparative Examples Comparative Examples Comparative Examples Comparative Examples

10 11 12 1 2 3 4 5 Soft

3.8 3.8 3.9 3.4 3.5 3.5 3.3 3.4 / Smooth

Persistence 4.3 4.5 4.6 3.6 3.7 3.5 3.5 3.6 Playability 4. 1 4.3 4.6 4 4.3 4.4 4.4 4.6 Looking at the Tables 3 and 4, the hair cosmetic composition according to the present invention Examples 1 to 12 compared to the comparative examples 1 to 5 having a general formulation structure, the softness is similar or slightly improved, but the durability is significantly increased. Able to know.

From this, the composition according to the present invention has a lamellar liquid crystal structure, which makes it easy to adsorb onto the surface of the hair and improves the application property, thereby increasing the sustainability and providing the effect of maintaining the softness of the hair for a long time. Able to know.

Test Example 3 Evaluation of Adsorption and Sustainability of Composition (wool swatch test)

Adsorption amount and holding power of the composition according to the invention of the hair treatment formulation having a lamellar ^' liquid crystal structure and a composition having no lamellar liquid crystal structure were evaluated in the following manner. At this time, the composition of Example 3 was used as the composition according to the present invention, and the composition of Comparative Example 5 was used as the composition having no lamellar liquid crystal structure.

After treating each of the treatment compositions of Example 3 or Comparative Example 5 to ig in a 5cm * 5cm wool cloth, and left for 3 minutes, and then washed in running water for 30 seconds. At this time, a wool cloth without treatment treatment was used as a control for comparison. Next, add 0 ~ 3 times with shampoo (Amos Beauty Shampoo ᅳ AMOREPACIFIC) The wool cloth was washed and developed by immersing in 0.5% Rubin dye solution (Rubine dye test). The degree of coloration was then measured with a color difference meter (CHROMA METER CR-100, MINOLTA CAMERA CO., LTD. Japan), from which the remaining amount of the composition remaining in the wool cloth was evaluated according to the number of cleaning cycles. The measurement results are shown in FIG. 8.

Referring to FIG. 8, when the composition having a lamellar liquid crystal structure according to the present invention (Example 3) is applied and the composition having no lamellar liquid crystal structure (General Formulation, Comparative Example 5) is applied, the wool is washed once more with shampoo. It can be confirmed that the adsorption amount on the cloth is similar. However, in the case of applying the composition having no lamellae liquid crystal structure after two additional washings with shampoo, most of the components are removed and there is almost no adsorption amount of the composition. It can be seen that a significant amount of the composition is adsorbed.

From this, it can be seen that the composition according to the present invention can be easily adsorbed to the hair by forming a latala liquid crystal structure, and the adsorbed components can be maintained longer to increase the sustaining power of the hair softness.

Test Example 4 Evaluation of Durability of Composition (Measurement of Contact Angle of Hair)

Healthy hair has hydrophobic properties, and if hair is damaged it becomes hydrophilic The contact angle to water becomes small (see FIG. 9; damaged hair: bleached hair; measuring instrument: hydrophobic (surface tension measurement) / K100 Tens iometers, RUSS GmbH, Germany). Therefore, by measuring the contact angle of the hair it is possible to know the degree of change in the physical properties of the hair, through which it is possible to evaluate whether the damage or improvement of the hair.

In this test example, the composition of Example 3 was used as the composition according to the present invention, and the composition of Comparative Example 5 was used as the composition having no lamellar liquid crystal structure.

The hair tress damaged by decoloration was treated with the hair treatment compositions of Example 3 and Comparative Example 5, then left for 3 minutes and then washed with running water for 30 seconds. Then, the shampoo (Amos Beauty Shampoo, Amorepacific) was further washed 0 to 3 times, and the contact angle of the hair tress was measured according to the number of washing. The measurement result is shown in FIG.

In the case of the tress to which the composition having the liquid crystal structure according to the present invention is applied, the contact angle is higher than that of the tress to which the composition having no liquid crystal structure (general formulation) is applied, which can be confirmed that it is maintained at a certain level even after further cleaning with a shampoo. .

This means that the composition according to the present invention having a lamellar liquid crystal structure can remain in the damaged hair for a longer time in a larger amount than the composition without the lamellar liquid crystal structure, thereby increasing the sustainability of the hair softness. It means that the physical properties have changed.

Test Example 5 Perfume Persistence Test

In the composition according to the present invention, the following method was evaluated for the perfume persistence when using a composition containing a lecithin-based surfactant.

Five hairdressers (about 35 g) were bundled and prepared and shampooed once. Thereafter, 5 g of the treatments of Example 9 and Comparative Example 5 were applied and then maintained for 3 minutes. The hairdresser was rinsed five times in running water and dried with a dryer.

Then, 400 ml of ethyl ether (HPLC grade) was placed in a 500 ml glass bottle, and the dried hairdresser was deposited for 90 minutes. Thereafter, impurities were removed using filter paper (Watman No. 2), and concentrated in a constant temperature water bath (30 ^° C.) and concentrated 100 times. This was analyzed by gas chromatography (GC) (injection volume: 1 ^), and the measurement results are shown in FIG. 11.

Analysis condition

. Analyzer: HP 5890 I I GC. Detector: HP 5972 MSD

. Column: DB-1 (60 m X 0.25 mm X 0.25 um). Mobile Phase Gas: He

. Inlet temperature: 250 ^° C. Detector temperature: 280 ^° C

. Obon temperature: 70 ^° C ~ 220 ^° C (3t min). Ionization Voltage: 70eV Looking at Figure 11, in the case of Example 9 having a lamellar structure according to the invention it can be seen that the perfume persistence is high. In addition, the aroma test was conducted along with the GC analysis. The higher the adsorption to the hair due to the lamellar liquid crystal structure, the more conditioning ingredients remain, and the more fragrance (oil) must remain inside the lamellar liquid crystal structure than the conventional formulation. It was tested for the smell.

The evaluation was conducted by 10 expert evaluation personnel to test the fragrance of the hairdresser who applied the treatment after one shampoo as described above. The lowest score was 1, the highest score was 10, and the test was conducted by a professional evaluator scoring the absolute score.

The results are shown in Table 5 below and FIG. 12.

Table 5

Looking at Table 5 and Figure 12, compared with Comparative Example 5 having a general formulation structure In the case of Example 9 having a la della structure, it can be seen that the perfume persistence appears higher. This is because the lamellar structure is advantageous in that the adsorption on the hair is advantageous and the residual amount of the perfume is increased by the lamellar structure in which the oil layer and the aqueous layer are stacked in sequence.

Therefore, the use of lamellar structure as in the present invention can be an effective method for increasing the reverberation in hair.

Claims

【Scope of Claim】

【Claim 11

Higher aliphatic alcohols; and

A cosmetic composition for hair comprising liquid crystals formed using at least one selected from the group consisting of sorbitan-based surfactants, glucose-based surfactants, and lecithin-based surfactants.

[Claim 2]

The cosmetic composition for hair according to claim 1, wherein the liquid crystal has a lamellar structure.

【Claim 3】

The method of claim 1, wherein the higher aliphatic alcohol is at least one selected from the group consisting of cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, cetearyl alcohol, and behenyl alcohol. Cosmetic composition for hair.

[Claim 4]

The cosmetic composition for hair according to claim 1, wherein the higher aliphatic alcohol is contained in an amount of 0.1 to 10% by weight based on the total weight of the composition.

[Claim 5] The method of claim 1, wherein the sorbitan-based surfactant is at least one selected from the group consisting of cetearyl libate*sorbitan olivate, sorbitan sesquilate, and sorbitan stearate*sorbityl laurate. Cosmetic composition.

【Claim 6】

The method of claim 1, wherein the glucose-based surfactant is selected from the group consisting of C14-22 alcohol *C12-20 alkyl glucoside, cetearyl alcohol *cetearyl glucoside, and arachidyl alcohol *behenyl alcohol *arachidyl glucoside. One or more types of cosmetic compositions for hair.

【Claim 7】

The cosmetic composition for hair according to claim 1, wherein the lecithin-based surfactant is at least one selected from the group consisting of Hydrogenated Lecithin *C12-16 Alcohol *Palmitic Acid, Hydrogenated Lecithin, Lecithin, and Soybean Phospholipid. .

[Claim 8]

The cosmetic composition for hair according to claim 1, wherein the surfactant is contained in an amount of 0.1 to 15% by weight based on the total weight of the composition.

[Claim 9] The cosmetic composition for hair according to any one of claims 1 to 8, wherein the composition is used to improve the softness of hair.

【Claim 10】

The cosmetic composition for hair according to claim 7, wherein the composition improves the persistence of fragrance in hair.