WO2015052643A1 - Composant actif permettant d'homogénéiser le vermillon des lèvres et compositions cosmétiques renfermant ce composant actif - Google Patents

Composant actif permettant d'homogénéiser le vermillon des lèvres et compositions cosmétiques renfermant ce composant actif Download PDF

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Publication number
WO2015052643A1
WO2015052643A1 PCT/IB2014/065106 IB2014065106W WO2015052643A1 WO 2015052643 A1 WO2015052643 A1 WO 2015052643A1 IB 2014065106 W IB2014065106 W IB 2014065106W WO 2015052643 A1 WO2015052643 A1 WO 2015052643A1
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WO
WIPO (PCT)
Prior art keywords
agents
lips
skin
shea butter
vermilion
Prior art date
Application number
PCT/IB2014/065106
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English (en)
Inventor
Viviane GENET
Philippe Mondon
Caroline RINGENBACH
Emmanuel DORIDOT
Original Assignee
Sederma
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Publication date
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Publication of WO2015052643A1 publication Critical patent/WO2015052643A1/fr

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Classifications

    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/92—Oils, fats or waxes; Derivatives thereof, e.g. hydrogenation products thereof
    • A61K8/922—Oils, fats or waxes; Derivatives thereof, e.g. hydrogenation products thereof of vegetable origin
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q1/00—Make-up preparations; Body powders; Preparations for removing make-up
    • A61Q1/02—Preparations containing skin colorants, e.g. pigments
    • A61Q1/04—Preparations containing skin colorants, e.g. pigments for lips
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q1/00—Make-up preparations; Body powders; Preparations for removing make-up
    • A61Q1/02—Preparations containing skin colorants, e.g. pigments
    • A61Q1/04—Preparations containing skin colorants, e.g. pigments for lips
    • A61Q1/06—Lipsticks
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q19/00—Preparations for care of the skin
    • A61Q19/001—Preparations for care of the lips
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K2800/00—Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
    • A61K2800/74—Biological properties of particular ingredients
    • A61K2800/78—Enzyme modulators, e.g. Enzyme agonists

Definitions

  • the present invention relates to the cosmetic treatment of the imperfections of the vermilion of the lips, often considered uncomfortable and unsightly. It relates to the use of Shea butter and to cosmetic compositions comprising it, to homogenize the vermilion of the lips.
  • a cosmetic method for preventing and/or treating the imperfections of the vermilion of the lips is also proposed, comprising administering to a person in need thereof a composition comprising Shea butter.
  • the present invention concerns the cosmetic and dermopharmaceutical industries, that produce and/or use products for increasing the appearance and/or general state, for preventing and/or treating disorders and pathologies of skin, scalp, mucous membranes and appendages (such as hair, eyelashes, eyebrows, nails or hairs) of mammals, animals or humans.
  • Lips are important in the relationship to each other. They are at the same time a seductive organ, for expressing human emotions such as joy, sadness and anger, and are a communication organ with a phonatory role. Lips are two musculo-membranous flaps very mobile: an upper lip and a lower lip.
  • Each lip includes a cutaneous portion or white lip, and a mucosal portion or red lip or vermilion. In coloured people, the vermilion is not red but brownish or even black.
  • Shea butter homogenizes the vermilion of the lips. Improvement was observed as from 2 days of application. Shea trees grow in Africa, in a region spreading from Senegal to Kenya. They start bearing fruit when they are 15 to 20 years old, and continue bearing for 200 to 300 years. Shea nuts are used to make an edible plant butter that is known for its cosmetic properties.
  • Shea butter is used for cutaneous cosmetic purposes by African populations, and has more recently begun to be used by the cosmetics industry. Its benefits include protecting the skin from harsh weather and the sun, promoting healing and eliminating superficial irritations. It is thus used to treat dry skin, dermatitis and dermatoses, eczema, sunburn, burns and gingivitis. It is also used for baby's skin and as well as for elderly's skin.
  • the fatty acids that constitute the triglycerides are mostly oleic acid (45 to 60%) and stearic acid (30 to 40%), palmitic and linoleic acids represent only 3 to 9% each.
  • This composition is similar to edible vegetal oils and provides softness, emolience and nutrition to the skin.
  • Shea butter is mainly due to its high content of unsaponifiable compounds. This content can vary from 3.5 to 9% depending on the season, the region and the production method.
  • the interesting compounds found in the unsaponifiable fraction represent up to 70% of the total.
  • These are terpenic alcohols present in the butter in the form of cinnamic acid esters.
  • C 3 oH 50 a group of analogue biomolecules amongst these with the same chemical formula C 3 oH 50 0, including a- and ⁇ -amyrin, lupeol, parkeol, basseol and butyrospermol.
  • esters formed by these biomolecules with cinnamic acid and known for their healing and disinfecting properties that may be related to their anti-inflammatory properties. They are very well tolerated by the skin, contrary to Peru Balsam for example.
  • Phytosterols represent up to 5 to 10% of the unsaponifiables, such as a-spinasterol and ⁇ 7- stigmasterol. These molecules can be considered as biological precursors for other biomolecules, such as vitamin D, which is known to play a role in cutaneous tissue regeneration and skin protection.
  • Shea (butter) unsaponifiable is a natural product widely used amongst African populations. It is preferably obtained by mechanically pressure of roasted almonds at high temperatures without chemicals or solvents. Thanks to this preparation process, all the active ingredients of the Shea unsaponifiable can be maintained with no chemical residue traces. Thus prepared, the unsaponifiable is particularly appreciated for its unctuousness, the constancy of its quality, its color and its odor, the absence of acidity and of peroxides.
  • Shea unsaponifiable is thereafter extracted for example by supercritical C0 2 extraction technique after having been first steam refined.
  • Supercritical C0 2 uses C0 2 from the air, which, when compressed, becomes liquid and during extraction carries on its way lipophilic molecules of the butter without transforming them. At the end, C0 2 is totally retrieved and can be recycled. There is no residue in products prepared using this method because C0 2 is inert. The advantage of this process is that it is natural and has no environmental impact.
  • This technique is used to concentrate the unsaponifiable fraction to the detriment of some of the triglycerides, monoglycerides and diglycerides, as well as some free fatty acids.
  • the unsaponifiable content is threefold what it was in the original Shea butter, being superior to 18%.
  • Shea butter of the invention is in particular a very refined butter, rich in unsaponifiable s. More particularly, the invention is meant a Shea butter that contains a high unsaponifiable content in weight, especially at least equal to 18%, more especially more than 18% in weight.
  • the invention thus relates to the cosmetic use of Shea butter as an active agent to homogenize the vermilion of the lips.
  • Shea butter homogenizes the color of the vermilion of the lips, and increases expression of aquaporins and particularly of aquaporin-3.
  • Aquaporins are a class of transmembrane proteins, conveyors of water and small molecules in solution.
  • Type 3 aquaporin, aquaporine-3 or AQP-3 is a small protein responsible for water and glycerol transfer in the epidermis.
  • a lack of aquaporin-3 leads to a loss in elasticity, a variation and decrease in the skin barrier's hydration storage capacity.
  • the absence of AQP-3 highly delays the regeneration process of the epidermis. This phenomenon can thus be enhanced by increasing AQP-3.
  • cosmetic compositions can be formulated without increasing the composition of a large amount of triglycerides. It is a raw material with large cosmetic qualities, white and odorless, which melts quickly at the body temperature and leaves a pleasant, smooth and supple feel on the facial, body and lip skin. It is easy to incorporate into emulsions and anhydrous products (sticks and balms).
  • the invention also concerns a cosmetic composition
  • a cosmetic composition comprising a) an effective amount of Shea butter, especially Shea butter rich in unsaponifiables and b) a physiologically acceptable medium.
  • the invention relates to the use of said cosmetic composition for homogenizing the lip vermilion.
  • the active agent according to the invention is for cosmetic, pharmaceutical, or cosmeceuticals, including the cosmetic industry for the manufacture of cosmetic products, creams, gels, etc.
  • the agent may be called “topical active agent” in that its destination is a topical application.
  • Topical application means an application that is intended to act where it is applied: skin, mucous membrane, skin appendages.
  • a topical application may especially be cosmetic, pharmaceutical or cosmeceutical.
  • the composition of the present invention may in particular be in a form suitable for topical application. More particularly, the Shea butter, active agent according to the present invention, and a composition comprising it, can be used for the prevention and/or treatment of imperfections of skin and its annexes or appendages, and in particular for the prevention and/or treatment of the imperfections of the vermilion of the lips.
  • skin means according to the invention, the entire body cover, including skin, mucous membranes and scalp.
  • appendages means all cutaneous annexes including nails, hair, eyelashes, eyebrows and hairs.
  • prevent or treat imperfections of the skin and its annexes or appendages mean according to the invention an action both at the preventive and curative levels on the disorders and diseases, signs of deterioration, including fighting against aging, and/or against the imperfections of the skin, mucous membranes or appendages.
  • preventing or treating the signs of aging mean preventing and/or limiting the emergence of signs of skin aging such as fine lines, wrinkles, dry skin, loss of tone, elasticity, etc. It means, when the skin is already showing signs of skin aging, correcting and/or diminishing the signs of aging. Aging also affects the mucous membranes and skin appendages such as hair, hairs (including eyebrows and eyelashes) and nails; and the signs of aging can thus be very different, but not less annoying.
  • preventing or treating skin imperfections mean preventing and/or limiting the appearance of skin imperfections such as texture or tone discontinuities, degradation of sensations of the skin, mucous membranes or appendages, such as tightness, dryness, itching. It also includes, when the skin has already imperfections, treating and/or alleviating these imperfections.
  • the active agent of the invention homogenizes the vermilion of the lips, especially homogenizes the color of the vermilion of the lips, and more particularly increases the expression of aquaporins, and in particular aquaporin-3.
  • the active agent of the invention is present in a composition suitable for topical application to the skin or appendages, comprising a physiologically acceptable medium.
  • a composition suitable for topical application to the skin or appendages comprising a physiologically acceptable medium.
  • These may be in particular cosmetic or dermatological compositions.
  • the present invention also proposes a topical composition characterized in that it comprises at least the active agent according to the invention, in a physiologically acceptable medium.
  • the present invention also encompasses a topical composition
  • a topical composition comprising in a physiologically acceptable medium, at least the at least one active agent according to the invention, and characterized in that said agent is present in a sufficient amount to have an activity of homogenization of the vermilion of the lips, and in particular of homogenization of the color of the vermilion of the lips, an activity of increasing the expression of aquaporins and particularly aquaporin-3.
  • the topical application may be cosmetic, dermocosmetic and/or dermopharmaceutical.
  • the use is a cosmetic use.
  • a cosmetic use means a use to improve the aesthetic appearance of the skin or its annexes, including delaying or reducing physiological changes occurring with the age, of healthy individuals. These changes may appear as from 30 or 35 years, but are generally more marked after 40 years, and are growing at 50 or older.
  • the active agent or the composition of the invention may include one or more other active agents to enhance or supplement the action of Shea butter according to the invention, advantageously thus offering a product with a wider range of cosmetic properties.
  • additional active agents may be chosen for example among the lightening agents, anti-redness, anti-spots, calming, for the treatment of sensitive, reactive skins, UV sunscreens, moisturizing, humectants, exfoliating, smoothing, toning, anti-aging (in reinforcement of activity), anti-wrinkles, thinning, volumizing agents, agents improving the mechanical and elastic properties, the radiance, the detoxifying actives, agent acting on the skin barrier, anti-acne, acting on the secretion of sebum, matting, unifying, anti-inflammatory, anti-oxidant, anti-free radical, anti-glycation, propigmenting or depigmentation, depilatories, anti-hair regrowth, or promoting hair and hairs growth, eye contour (dark circles and under-
  • Shea butter according to the invention can be combined with at least one of the compounds selected from the compounds of B3 vitamin, compounds as niacinamide or tocopherol, retinoid compounds, such as retinol, hexamidine, a-lipoic acid, resveratrol or DHEA, peptides, including N-acetyl-Tyr-Arg-O-hexadecyl ester, Pal-VGVAPG (SEQ ID NO: 1), Pal-KTTKS (SEQ ID NO: 2), Pal-GHK, Pal-KM02K and Pal-GQPR (SEQ ID NO: 3), which are widely used active ingredients in topical cosmetic or dermo-pharmaceutical compositions.
  • the compounds of B3 vitamin compounds as niacinamide or tocopherol
  • retinoid compounds such as retinol, hexamidine, a-lipoic acid, resveratrol or DHEA
  • peptides including N-acety
  • Physiologically acceptable medium means according to the present invention, without limitation, an aqueous or hydro-alcoholic solution, a water-in-oil emulsion, an oil-in-water emulsion, a micro- emulsion, an aqueous gel, an anhydrous gel, a serum, a dispersion of vesicles, or a powder.
  • compositions are suitable for topical or transdermal use, in contact with mucous membranes, appendages (nails, hair and hairs), scalp and skin of mammals, particularly human, compositions which may be ingested or injected into the skin, without risk of toxicity, incompatibility, instability, allergic response, and others.
  • This "physiologically acceptable medium” forms what is commonly called the excipient of the composition.
  • the effective amount of the active ingredient that is to say its dosage, depends on the destination of the topical composition, cosmetic, pharmaceutical or cosmeceutical.
  • the cosmetic, pharmaceutical or cosmeceutical effective amount according to the invention to be administered to treat a disorder or disease and its dosage depends on various factors, such as the age, the condition of the patient, the severity of the disorder or disease and the administration mode.
  • An effective amount means a non-toxic amount enough to achieve the desired effect.
  • the active ingredient comprising or consisting of the Shea butter rich in unsaponifiables, to be present in an effective amount is generally present in an amount ranging from 0.0001% to 90% , preferably between 0.001% and 40%, more preferably between 0.01 and 20%, based on the total weight of the composition. Concentrations giving good results are concentrations of from 0.05% to 10%. The one skilled in the art is capable of adjusting the active content depending on the specific destination and the desired effect.
  • the choice of the excipient of the composition is made according to the constraints of the active ingredient (stability, solubility, etc.), and if necessary according to the intended galenic form envisaged afterwards for the composition.
  • the active ingredient according to the invention can be incorporated in the composition by means of a lipophilic solution, or be solubilized thanks to usual physiologically acceptable solubilizers. It can be interesting to solubilize the agent with emulsifiers. A powder support can also be used.
  • compositions of the present invention are generally prepared by conventional methods well known to one skilled in the art for making topical or oral compositions and compositions for injection. Such methods may involve a mixture of ingredients in one or more steps to obtain a uniform state, with or without heating, cooling, etc.
  • galenic forms that can contain the active ingredient according to the invention can be used, i.e., creams, lotions, milk or cream ointments, gels, emulsions, dispersions, solutions, suspensions, cleansers, foundations, anhydrous preparation (sticks for example lip balm, body and bath oils), shower and bath gels, shampoos and hair care lotions, milks or creams for skin and hair cares, cleansing lotions or milks, sunscreen lotions, milks or creams, artificial tanning lotions, milks or creams, pre-shave, shaving or after-shave creams, foams, gels or lotions, make-up, lipsticks, mascaras or nail varnishes, skin "essences,” serums, adhesive or absorbent materials, transdermal patches, emollient powders, lotions, milks or creams, sprays, oils for the body and the bath, foundation tint bases, pomade, emulsion, colloid, compact or solid suspension, pencil, sprayable or brossable formulation, blush
  • compositions in accordance with the invention include cosmetics, personal care products and pharmaceutical preparations.
  • a composition in the form of foam or in the form of compositions for aerosol also including a propellant agent under pressure can be envisaged.
  • Cosmetic compositions according to the invention may also be for orodental use, for example, toothpaste.
  • the compositions may contain the usual adjuvants and additives for compositions for oral use and, in particular, surfactants, thickening agents, moisturizing agents, polishing agents such as silica, various active substances such as fluorides, particularly sodium fluoride, and, possibly, sweetening agents such as saccharin sodium.
  • the active ingredient or composition within the scope of the present invention may be used in the form of solution, dispersion, emulsion, paste, or powder, individually or as a premix or in vehicles individually or as a premix in vectors such as macro-, micro-, or nanocapsules, macro-, micro- or , nanospheres, liposomes, oleosomes or chylomicrons, macro-, micro-, or nanoparticles or macro-, micro- or nanosponges, , micro- or nano- emulsions or adsorbed on organic polymer powders, talcs, bentonites, spores or exines, and other inorganic or organic supports.
  • vectors such as macro-, micro-, or nanocapsules, macro-, micro- or , nanospheres, liposomes, oleosomes or chylomicrons, macro-, micro-, or nanoparticles or macro-, micro- or nanosponges, , micro- or nano- emulsions
  • the active ingredient or the composition according to the present invention may be used in any form whatsoever, in a form bound to or incorporated in or absorbed in or adsorbed on macro-, micro-, and nanoparticles, or macro-, micro-, and nanocapsules, for the treatment of textiles, natural or synthetic fibers, wools, and any materials that may be used for clothing or underwear for day or night intended to come into contact with the skin, handkerchiefs or cloths, to exert their cosmetic effect via this skin/textile contact and to permit continuous topical delivery.
  • the invention also discloses a woven or nonwoven material comprising a Shea butter according to the invention or a composition according to the invention for a use or a method according to the invention.
  • the pH of a composition according to the invention when it comprises at least an aqueous phase (eg, aqueous solutions, emulsions,...), is preferably between 4 and 9, preferably between 4 and 7, advantageously between 5 and 6, and particularly a pH of 5.5.
  • the present invention also concerns a cosmetic treatment method or process to improve and/or treat the imperfections of the vermilion of the lips, and in particular to homogenize the vermilion of the lips, in particular to homogenize the color of the lips, comprising the topical application to the skin of a subject in need thereof of an effective amount of the invention active ingredient or of a composition as recited above according to the invention.
  • Cosmetic treatment method or process means an application that is intended to act where it is applied: skin, mucosa, skin appendages.
  • a topical application can particularly be cosmetic, pharmaceutical or cosmeceutical.
  • the active agent and the composition of the invention are also suitable for a method of treating sensitive skins.
  • Improvements in skin imperfections and in particular the homogeneity of the vermilion of the lips can be obtained by topical application of such compositions on a regular basis, for example daily or bi- daily.
  • Results can be observed as from the beginning of the application of the cosmetic treatment.
  • the cosmetic treatment according to the invention may be extended for a 2, 4 or 8 weeks, or even few months.
  • the active agent or composition containing it is preferably applied on skin areas affected by the disorders against which fighting is desired. These areas include face skin, forehead, lips, neck, chest, arms and hands, but also body areas like legs, thighs, knees, feet, chest, back, buttocks, or abdomen or any area to be treated.
  • topical cosmetic treatment that will include a composition containing the active agent of the invention; this treatment can be achieved for example by applying topically to the composition described in the present invention, according to a method usually used to apply such a composition.
  • the topical composition is preferably applied to the lips, but can be applied to any part of skin requiring an aesthetic improvement, where the composition remains on the skin area to be treated, and preferably is not removed or flushed from the skin.
  • the European Cosmetics Directive has set a standard amount for applying a cream of 2.72 mg/cm 2 /day/person.
  • treating and treatment include and encompass the reduction, improvement, progress, relief, and/or elimination of dermatological effects, including of aging.
  • One of the major advantages of the present invention resides in the ability whenever necessary or desirable to be able to apply local selective "gentle" treatments through this topical, non-invasive method of application.
  • anti-wrinkle use for example it may be applied very locally using a syringe or micro-canula.
  • compositions containing the ingredient according to the invention intended to be injected subcutaneously.
  • the cosmetic treatment method according to the invention can be combined with one or more other treatment methods targeting the skin such as lumino-therapy, heat or aromatherapy treatments .
  • devices with several compartments or kits may be proposed to apply the method described above which may include for example and non-restrictively, a first compartment containing a composition comprising the active agent of the invention, and in a second compartment a composition containing another active ingredient and/or excipient, the compositions contained in the said first and second compartments in this case being considered to be a combination composition for simultaneous, separate or stepwise use in time, particularly in one of the treatment methods recited above.
  • composition according to the invention is proposed in an adapted form that can be ingested.
  • the invention also proposes a composition comprising the active agent according to the invention for a therapeutical treatment of degraded skin, mucous membranes and skin appendages.
  • applications can be offered for example in product lines for moisturizing, make up removal, cleansing, anti-aging, antioxidant, protective, restorative (hands, feet, lips), contours (face, eyes, neck, lips), the makeup-care of the skin and the appendages, including eyelashes, lip products, sunscreens, sculpting, plumping, volumizing (e.g. on the hands, chest, breasts), hair products, nail care etc.
  • CTFA International cosmetic ingredient dictionary & handbook (13th Ed. 2010) (published by the Cosmetic, Toiletry, and Fragrance Combination, Inc., Washington, D.C.)) describes a non-limited wide variety of cosmetic and pharmaceutical ingredients conventionally used in the skin care industry that can be used as additional ingredients/compounds in the compositions of the present invention.
  • ingredients classes include, but are not limited to: healing agents, skin anti-aging agents, anti-wrinkle agents, anti-atrophy agents, skin moisturizing agents, skin smoothing agents, antibacterial agents, anti-parasitic agents, antifungal agents, fungicidal agents, fungistatic agents, bactericidal agents, bacteriostatic agents, antimicrobial agents, anti-inflammatory agents, anti- pruriginous agents, anesthetic agents, antiviral agents, keratolytic agents, free radicals scavengers, anti-seborrhea agents, antidandruff agents, the agents modulating differentiation, proliferation or pigmentation of the skin and agents accelerating penetration, desquamating agents, melanin synthesis stimulating or inhibiting agents, whitening, depigmenting or lightening agents, pro-pigmenting agents, self-tanning agents, NO-synthase inhibiting agents, antioxidants, free radical scavengers and/or agents against atmospheric pollution, reactive carbonyl species s
  • triethanolamine triethanolamine
  • propellants reducing agents, sequestrants, decoloring and/or lightening agents
  • skin- conditioning agents e.g., humectants, including miscellaneous and occlusive
  • moisture retaining agents alphahydroxyacids, betahydroxyacids, moisturizers, epidermal hydrolytic enzymes, healing and/or calming agents
  • skin treating agents anti-wrinkle agents, agents that reduce or treat bags under the eyes, exfoliating agents, thickeners, softening agents, gelling polymers, vitamins and their derivatives, wetting agents, peeling agents, soothing agents, curative agents of the skin, lignans, preservatives (i.e.
  • phenoxyethanol and parabens include anti UV, cytotoxic agents, anti-neoplastics, viscosity modifiers, non-volatile solvents, pearling agents, anti-perspirant agents, depilatories, vaccine, perfumed water, skin restructuring agent (i.e.
  • Such additional active ingredient/compound can be selected from the group consisting of: sugar amines, glucosamine, D-glucosamine, N-acetyl glucosamine, N-acetyl-D-glucosamine, mannosamine, N-acetyl mannosamine, galactosamine, N-acetyl galactosamine, B3 vitamin and its derivatives, niacinamide, sodium dehydroacetate, dehydroacetic acid and its salts, phytosterols, salicylic acid compounds, hexamidines, dialkanoyl hydroxyproline compounds, soy extracts and derivatives, equol, isoflavones, flavonoids, phytantriol, farnesol, geraniol, bisabolol, peptides and their derivatives, di-, tri-, tetra-, penta-, and hexapeptides and their derivatives, KTTKS (SEQ ID NO: 4), Pal-K
  • extracts of Ivy in particular English Ivy (Hedera Helix), of Bupleurum chinensis, of Bupleurum Falcatum, of arnica (Arnica Montana L), of rosemary (Rosmarinus officinalis N), of marigold (Calendula officinalis), of sage (Salvia officinalis L), of ginseng (Panax ginseng), of Zingiber zerumbet sm., of ginko biloba, of St.-John's-Wort (Hyperycum Perforatum), of butcher's- broom (Ruscus aculeatus L), of European meadowsweet (Filipendula ulmaria L), of big- flowered Jarva tea (Orthosiphon Stamincus Benth), of algae (Fucus Vesiculosus), of birch (Betula
  • compositions of the present invention may include peptides, including, without limitation, the di-, tri-, tetra-, penta-and hexapeptides and their derivatives.
  • concentration of the additional peptide, in the composition ranges from lxl0 "7 % and 20%, preferably from lxl0 "6 % and 10%, preferably between lxl0 "5 % and 5% by weight.
  • peptide refers to peptides containing 10 amino acids or less, their derivatives, isomers and complexes with other species such as a metal ion (e.g. copper, zinc, manganese, magnesium, and others).
  • a metal ion e.g. copper, zinc, manganese, magnesium, and others.
  • peptides refers to both natural peptides and synthetic peptides. It also refers to compositions that contain peptides and which are found in nature, and/or are commercially available.
  • Suitable dipeptides for use herein include but are not limited to Carnosine (beta-AH), YR, VW, NF, DF, KT, KC, CK, KP, KK or TT.
  • Suitable tripeptides for use herein include, but are not limited to RKR, HGG, GHK, GKH, GGH, GHG, KFK, KPK, KMOK, KM0 2 K or KAvaK.
  • Suitable tetrapeptides for use herein include but are not limited to RSRK (SEQ ID NO: 5), GQPR (SEQ ID NO: 6) or KTFK (SEQ ID NO: 7).
  • Suitable pentapeptides include, but are not limited to KTTKS (SEQ ID NO: 4).
  • Suitable hexapeptides include but are not limited to GKTTKS (SEQ ID NO: 8) and VGVAPG (SEQ ID NO: 9).
  • Suitable peptides for use herein include, but are not limited to: lipophilic derivatives of peptides, preferably palmitoyl derivatives, and metal complexes as aforementioned (e.g. copper complex of the tripeptide HGG).
  • Preferred dipeptide include for example N-Palmitoyl-beta-Ala-His, N-Acetyl-Tyr- Arg-hexadecylester (CalmosensineTM, IdealiftTM from Sederma).
  • Preferred tripeptide derivatives include for example N-Palmitoyl-Gly-Lys-His, and Pal-Gly-His-Ly, (Pal-GKH and Pal-GHK from Sederma), the copper derivative of HGG (LaminTM from Sigma), Lipospondin (N-Elaidoyl-KFK) and its analogs of conservative substitution, N-Acetyl-RKR-NH 2 (Peptide CK+), N-Biot-GHK (from Sederma), Pal-KM0 2 K (Matrixyl Synthe6TM from Sederma) and derivatives thereof.
  • Suitable tetrapeptide derivatives for use according to the present invention include, but are not limited to, N- Pal-GQPR (SEQ ID NO: 3) (from Sederma), suitable pentapeptide derivatives for use herein include, but are not limited to, Pal-KTTKS (SEQ ID NO: 2) (available as MatrixylTM from Sederma), Pal- YGGF-X (SEQ ID NO: 10) with X Met or Leu or mixtures thereof.
  • Suitable hexapeptide derivatives for use herein include, but are not limited to, Pal-VGVAPG (SEQ ID NO: 1) and derivatives thereof.
  • the mixture of Pal-GHK and Pal-GQPR (SEQ ID NO: 3) (MatrixylTM 3000, Sederma) can also be mentioned.
  • compositions commercially available containing a tripeptide or a derivative include Biopeptide-CLTM, MaxilipTM, BiobustylTM, ProcapilTM and MatrixylTMsynthe'6TM of Sederma.
  • compositions commercially available preferred sources of tetrapeptides include RiginTM, EyelissTM, MatrixylTM Reloaded and Matrixyl 3000TM which contain between 50 and 500 ppm of Pal-GQPR (SEQ ID NO: 3) and an excipient, proposed by Sederma.
  • peptides can be mentioned as well as additional active ingredients: VialoxTM, Syn-akeTM or Syn-CollTM (Pentapharm), Hydroxyprolisilane CNTM (Exsymol), ArgirelineTM, LeuphasylTM, AldenineTM, TrylgenTM, EyeserylTM, SerilesineTM or DecorinylTM (Lipotec), CollaxylTM or QuintescineTM (Vincience), BONT-L-PeptideTM (lnfinitec Activos), CytokinolTMLS (Laboratoires Serobi GmbH/Cognis), KollarenTM, IP2000TM or MelipreneTM (lnstitut Europeen de Biologie Cellulaire), NeutrazenTM (Innovations), ECM-ProtectTM (Atrium Innovations), Timp-PeptideTM or ECM ModulineTM (lnfinitec Activos).
  • the active agent of the invention can advantageously be combined with the following ingredients offered by SEDERMA: DERMAXYLTM, LIPEXELTM, MAXI-LIPTM, SHEA BUTTERTM and VOLULIPTM.
  • NHK irradiated with UVB show a strong decline of their AQP-3 production (-78%, p ⁇ 0.01) compared to non-irradiated cases.
  • Contact before and after irradiation, but not during, with the equivalent of 140ppm of Shea butter containing at least 18% of unsaponifiables can greatly increase the amount of AQP-3 observed (+550% vs. irradiated cases; p ⁇ 0.01).
  • the active agent of the invention can strongly support and increase the amount of AQP-3 in keratinocytes which allows better control of the water homeostasis of these cells and the epidermis.
  • Preparation method Weigh phase A and heat to 85°C in a water bath. Mix well. Add phase B to phase A. Mix well. Pour hot into the mould. Remove from the mould at room temperature.
  • Example 3 repairing night balm
  • DERMAXYLTM anti-aging active ingredient marketed by SEDERMA (WO2004/101609) which soothes wrinkles and repairs the skin barrier. 3wt% of this ingredient may be for example added extemporaneously to phase (A+B+C).
  • Niacinamide B3 vitamin
  • Retinol. Resveratrol. DHEA anti -aging actives, including anti-wrinkle. 0.5% by weight of Retinol, Resveratrol or DHEA may be for example extemporaneously added in phase (A+B+C). 10 wt% of Niacinamide 10% in water can for example be added to the phase D.
  • Hexamidine antibacterial active that may be added to the phase D of the formulation at 0.5% by weight.
  • Preparation method Weigh phase A and heat to 85°C in a water bath. Mix well. Add phase B to phase A. Mix well. Pour hot into the mold. Remove from the mold at room temperature.
  • LIPEXELTM active ingredient marketed by SEDERMA (WO2003/017966) which restores the natural lipidic film of skin. 1 to 5% by weight of this ingredient may be added for example extemporaneously to phase A.
  • MAXI-LIPTM active ingredient marketed by SEDERMA (WO 2001/43701) that moisturizes lips and makes them firm, soft, and well-drawn. 1% by weight of this ingredient may be added for example extemporaneously to phase A.
  • VOLULIPTM active ingredient marketed by SEDERMA (WO 2010/082175) that plumps the lips. 1% by weight of this ingredient may be added for example extemporaneously to phase A.
  • PRODIZIATM active ingredient marketed by SEDERMA (WO2013/046137) fighting the signs cutaneous fatigue caused by glycation and glycoxidation.
  • Preparation method Weigh phase A and heat to 75°C in a water bath. Mix well. Cool to 65°C while stirring. Add phase B to this mixture outside the bath. Mix well before pouring into the mould.
  • Covi-Ox T90 anti-oxidant active (tocopherol) marketed by COGNIS. This ingredient can be added to phase B, for example 0.1%.
  • VOLULIPTM active ingredient marketed by SEDERMA (WO 2010/082175) that plumps the lips. 1% by weight of this ingredient may be added for example extemporaneously to phase A.
  • balm prepared according to example 1 and a stick prepared according to example 2, were used for these tests.
  • the volunteers needed to have damaged, dry, chapped lips. Furthermore, their lips needed to be sensitive, feel like they were warm, and have slight contour redness upon observation. The volunteers abstained from using cosmetic products on their lips and had consistent hormone levels before and during the test. The volunteers were only allowed to use the cosmetic products given to them.
  • Standardized photos of lips were taken on TO, T2 and T15 days using a complete system that enables reproducible shots to be taken by controlling light, volunteer position and high definition digital photo parameters.
  • the photos were taken to avoid any brightness on lip skin to improve the reproducibility of colour measurements.
  • the angle provided by the r A is similar in principle to that of the ITA ⁇ Individual Typologic Angle; CHARDON and al., 1991) both using the lightness (L*) and the component b* (yellow) but IWA also takes into account the component a* (red) of the CIELab system. IWA evolves from 0 to 90°: redder (0°: inflammation) whiter (90°: chapping, dryness).
  • the most interesting parameter is the dispersion value (which is a standard deviation) of all the pixels analysed on the lip. Ideally, it is close to zero (pink lip). Therefore, a product homogenizing the vermilion of the lips, and in particular the color of the vermilion of the lips, should reduce this dispersion.

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  • Health & Medical Sciences (AREA)
  • Life Sciences & Earth Sciences (AREA)
  • Animal Behavior & Ethology (AREA)
  • General Health & Medical Sciences (AREA)
  • Public Health (AREA)
  • Veterinary Medicine (AREA)
  • Dermatology (AREA)
  • Chemical & Material Sciences (AREA)
  • Oil, Petroleum & Natural Gas (AREA)
  • Birds (AREA)
  • Epidemiology (AREA)
  • Cosmetics (AREA)

Abstract

L'agent actif selon l'invention comprend du beurre de karité. Il peut être incorporé dans une composition cosmétique et utilisé pour homogénéiser le vermillon des lèvres.
PCT/IB2014/065106 2013-10-10 2014-10-07 Composant actif permettant d'homogénéiser le vermillon des lèvres et compositions cosmétiques renfermant ce composant actif WO2015052643A1 (fr)

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FRFR1359852 2013-10-10
FR1359852A FR3011742B1 (fr) 2013-10-10 2013-10-10 Nouvel actif pour homogeneiser le vermillon des levres et compositions cosmetiques le comprenant

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WO2023066184A1 (fr) * 2021-10-20 2023-04-27 庄国昇 Utilisation d'oligopeptide dans le traitement de l'inflammation gingivale, de l'atrophie gingivale et dans la réparation de la muqueuse buccale

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FR3104995B1 (fr) * 2019-12-18 2022-11-18 Laboratoires De Biologie Vegetale Yves Rocher Composition cosmetique anhydre a base de cires pour le soin, l’hygiene et/ou le maquillage, des levres et/ou de la peau

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WO2001043701A2 (fr) 1999-12-17 2001-06-21 Sederma Compositions cosmetiques ou dermopharmaceutiques contenant le tripeptide gly-hys-lys
WO2003017966A2 (fr) 2001-08-27 2003-03-06 Sederma Utilisation de l'huile de luffa cylindrica dans des compositions cosmetiques et dermopharmaceutiques
WO2004101609A2 (fr) 2003-05-12 2004-11-25 Sederma Composition cosmetique ou dermopharmaceutique pour reduire les signes du vieillissement cutane
WO2010082175A2 (fr) 2009-01-16 2010-07-22 Sederma Nouveaux composés, notamment des peptides, compositions comprenant ces derniers et utilisations dans les domaines cosmétique et dermopharmaceutique
GB2493687A (en) * 2011-03-01 2013-02-20 Shahena Ali Cosmetic comprising a pheromone
WO2013046137A2 (fr) 2011-09-27 2013-04-04 Sederma Nouvelle utilisation cosmétique d'un extrait d'albizia julibrissin et composition topique correspondante
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WO2003017966A2 (fr) 2001-08-27 2003-03-06 Sederma Utilisation de l'huile de luffa cylindrica dans des compositions cosmetiques et dermopharmaceutiques
WO2004101609A2 (fr) 2003-05-12 2004-11-25 Sederma Composition cosmetique ou dermopharmaceutique pour reduire les signes du vieillissement cutane
WO2010082175A2 (fr) 2009-01-16 2010-07-22 Sederma Nouveaux composés, notamment des peptides, compositions comprenant ces derniers et utilisations dans les domaines cosmétique et dermopharmaceutique
US20130177617A1 (en) * 2010-02-05 2013-07-11 Johnson & Johnson Consumer Companies, Inc. Lip compositions comprising galvanic particulates
GB2493687A (en) * 2011-03-01 2013-02-20 Shahena Ali Cosmetic comprising a pheromone
WO2013046137A2 (fr) 2011-09-27 2013-04-04 Sederma Nouvelle utilisation cosmétique d'un extrait d'albizia julibrissin et composition topique correspondante

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* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
WO2023066184A1 (fr) * 2021-10-20 2023-04-27 庄国昇 Utilisation d'oligopeptide dans le traitement de l'inflammation gingivale, de l'atrophie gingivale et dans la réparation de la muqueuse buccale

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