WO2015024868A1

WO2015024868A1 - Sterol ester in deodorant- and/or antiperspirant preparations

Info

Publication number: WO2015024868A1
Application number: PCT/EP2014/067462
Authority: WO
Inventors: Ilka Oelrichs
Original assignee: Beiersdorf Ag
Priority date: 2013-08-22
Filing date: 2014-08-15
Publication date: 2015-02-26
Also published as: BR112016001843A2; EP3036010A1

Abstract

The invention relates to the use of small quantities of sterol esters, in particular oryzanol, in cosmetic or dermatological deodorant- and/or antiperspirant preparations, wherein, the addition of UV filters, Butylated hydroxytoluene and other antioxidants can be dispensed with, without risking losses in terms of product stability. In fact, product stability is improved with regard to perfume stability and colour stability.

Description

Sterol esters in deodorant and / or antiperspirant preparations

The invention is the use of small amounts of sterol esters, in particular oryzanol, in

cosmetic or dermatological deodorant and / or antiperspirant preparations, wherein the addition of UV filters, butylhydroxytoluene and other antioxidants can be dispensed with without any loss of product stability. Rather, there is an improved product stability, which shows in the perfume stability and in the color stability.

Antiperspirants (AT) or deodorants (Deo) are used to eliminate or prevent body odor, which arises when the in itself odorless fresh sweat through

Microorganisms is decomposed. The usual cosmetic deodorants are based on different active principles.

In common usage there is not always a clear distinction between the terms "deodorant" and "antiperspirant". Rather, especially in German-speaking countries, products for use in the armpit area are referred to as deodorants or "deodorants", irrespective of the question of whether an antiperspirant effect is also present.

Antiperspirants (AT) are antiperspirants that - in contrast to the

Deodorants, which generally prevent microbial decomposition of already formed sweat - to prevent the secretion of sweat at all.

In contrast to the antiperspirants pure deodorants cause no active

Influencing the sweat secretion, but only controlling or influencing the body or underarm odor (odor-improving agent)

Cosmetic products tend to develop a base odor after prolonged storage. The reason for this undesirable side odor may be e.g. cosmetic oils, perfume oils, deodorants, AT agents and other agents that change chemically over time. Many cosmetic products are therefore treated with antioxidants to prevent unwanted oxidation of various substances targeted and thus the

Improve product stability. A commonly used antioxidant is BHT (butylhydroxytoluene).

It is advantageous to use natural raw materials as product protection and to dispense with chemical additives such as BHT (butylhydroxytoluene). The International Agency for Research on Cancer has classified BHT as non-classifiable.

γ-Oryzanol (CAS: 1 1042-64-1, also referred to as Oryzanol) is a mixture of ferulic acid esters of phytosterols, notably cycloartenyl ferulate, 24-methylenecycloartanyl ferulate and campesteryl ferulate. Oryzanol is sold under this product name, inter alia, by the Bremen company Henry Lamotte Oils GmbH and is a white to white-yellowish, odorless crystalline, 98% pure powder of esterified with ferulic acid phytosterols (including triterpenes, camesterol, stigmasterol and ß-sitosterol) from the Germinated and bran oil from Oryza sativa L. (rice germ oil), the rice plant belonging to the grasses.

Oryzanol has pronounced natural UVA and UVB absorption capacity and is therefore used in sunscreen products. Furthermore, it finds use in

Hair care products and in the lip cosmetics, ie in light-exposed products.

DE 601 33 577 T2 discloses structurants as additional components which can be used in certain product forms. The structurants, when used, are preferably present at 1% to 30% by weight of the composition. Sterols (for example, β-sitosterol) and sterol esters (for example, oryzanol) are suitable as structurants, but only if used in combination.

In WO 9742830 A1, liquid fats, especially triglycerides, are cured using a combination of phytosterols and esters thereof, including specifically, sitosterol and oryzanol to form an organogel.

In DE 102004008035 A1, oryzanol becomes more cosmetic as part of the lipid phase

Mentioned formulations.

DE 69723331 T2 discloses oryzanol as a constituent of UV-containing sunscreen preparations.

WO 02083091 A1 discloses 2.5% by weight of oryzanol in AT-containing microemulsion formulations, wherein sterol esters such as oryzanol are used to thicken the preparation.

Surprisingly, it has been invented that sterol esters, in particular oryzanol, in deo / AT systems significantly improve the product stability. The perfume stability as well as the

Color stability (in the case of, for example, AT pens) was markedly improved by the addition of small amounts of sterol esters, in particular oryzanol.

The invention is a cosmetic or dermatological deodorant and / or

Antiperspirant preparation comprising one or more deodorant and / or

Antiperspirant active ingredients and 0.01 to 2.4 wt.% Of one or more sterol esters, in particular oryzanol, based on the total mass of the preparation.

The preparation comprises not more than 0.4% by weight, based on the total mass of the preparation, of UV filters and / or butylhydroxytoluene, in particular less than 0.01% by weight, in particular 0% by weight, based on the total mass of the preparation UV filter and butylated hydroxytoluene. Advantageously, the addition of any additional antioxidants is limited to a maximum of 0.4% by weight, or in particular completely omitted (0% by weight).

The proportion of one or more sterol esters, in particular oryzanol, is advantageously selected in the range from 0.02 to 0.04% by weight, based on the total mass of the preparation.

According to the invention, this also means that only the proportion of oryzanol in the range 0.01 to 2.4, in particular 0.02 to 0.04 wt.% Is selected, the proportion of other sterol esters is then 0 wt.%.

Sterolester and vicarious oryzanol is inventively used in deodorant and / or antiperspirant preparations to the stability, in particular perfume and

Color stability, to ensure the preparation or improve, as the proportion of

additional antioxidants, UV filters and butylhydroxytoluene is reduced or is completely dispensed with additional stabilizers.

Sterols, or sterols, are polycyclic alcohols containing at least four

fused rings, wherein the ring size is at least three atoms, preferably the ring size is in the range of 3 to 6 atoms. Sterol esters are esters of phenolic acids of sterols. Phenolic acids are, for example, the family of cinnamic acids, caffeic acid and ferulic acid. Particularly preferred embodiment is the free sterol a ferulic acid and the phenolic acid esterified sterol a Ferulasäuresterolester, especially oryzanol.

An advantage of the present invention is the fact that sterol esters

Are components that are available from natural sources. In a preferred

Embodiment of the invention are the sterol ester components, which are also found in nature. For example, oryzanol occurs as a component in smaller amounts in many plants. In individual cases, they even occur in plants from which triglycerides are obtained. As a result, the stated task of using natural raw materials as product protection and dispensing with chemical additives such as BHT (butylhydroxytoluene) can be achieved.

Beneficial for the consumer is that due to possible allergies of BHT he can completely do without BHT.

Particularly advantageous is the use of oryzanol in AT systems. Here, oryzanol shows in comparison to e.g. BHT a significant improvement in product stability in terms of

Basic odor after storage (at 40 ° C (B40)).

The stability assessment is carried out by visual observation, measurement of rheological properties, pH, etc., and olfactometric perception. The evaluation of the odors takes place according to the following scale: Rating in% allocation

100 76 to 100% very good

90

80

70

60 51 to 75% good / normal

50 26 to 50% acceptable

40

30

25 0 to 25% unacceptable

Desirable and acceptable improvement and long-term stability is above 50%.

To ensure a shelf life of 30 months, the products are included

stressed different storage conditions (+ 6 ° C, -10 ° C, room temperature, 40 ° C and light) and evaluated at regular intervals to ensure that the products are durable.

For example, a smell of bottled AT spray cans (unperfumed) was carried out.

Compositions of Example Active Ingredient Solution of OHPA 2 to 4:

inci _ohpa_2 _ohpa_3 _ohpa_4

Cyclomethicones 43.2 43, 14 43, 17

Aluminum Chlorohydrate 36 36 36

Isopropyl palmitate 10 10 10

Cyclomethicone +

Dimethiconol 3 3 3

Dimethicone 3 3 3

Disteardimonium Hectorite 3,5 3,5 3,5

Propylene Carbonates 0.7 0.7 0.7 Persea Gratissima Oil 0.8 0.8 0.8

Octyldodecanol 0.8 0.8 0.8

Oryzanol - - 0,03

BHT - 0.06 -

SUM 100 100 100

Filling with propellant in the ratio: 15

Conclusion:

After 3.5 and especially 5 months storage at 40 ° C, the inventive

unperfumed AT spray (OHPA 4) with oryzanol a good / normal olfactory impression at 60%, with the sample rated BHT (OHPA 3) at only 55%. This difference can olfactorily very well perceived.

The pattern without BHT (OHPA 2) shows an olfactory impression of only 50%.

It is advantageous for the consumer if cosmetic products contain only as little as necessary ingredients. It is particularly advantageous when raw materials are used which have a natural origin and minimize the allergy potential. Furthermore, it is advantageous if natural ingredients can be used as antioxidants which have such a positive effect on product stability that antioxidants produced industrially in large quantities, e.g. BHT can be dispensed with altogether.

It is particularly advantageous to provide fragrance-free cosmetic products for sensitive skin with the natural product protection of oryzanol, since here the basic odor could be perceived by the absence of the perfume as unpleasant for the consumer. This odor can be suppressed in perfume-free formula by the addition of oryzanol.

Furthermore, stability tests with common market products were carried out once with oryzanol (with) and once without oryzanol (without).

The following table shows the olfactometric perception (%):

Again, oryzanol is shown to improve olfactometric perception, especially with longer storage times and higher temperatures.

The improved olfactometric perception is a measure of the perfume stabilization of the preparation.

It is therefore to use oryzanol in deodorant and / or antiperspirant preparations for improving the product stability, in particular perfume and / or color stability, of the preparation compared to the stability of the preparation without oryzanol. The term perfume stability, in particular perfume-free products, means the olfactory stability of the preparation after storage.

The preparations advantageously contain no UV filters and / or butylhydroxytoluene. In particular, no further antioxidants, except the sterol esters, if they should have antioxidant properties, are included in the preparations.

Preferably, oryzanol is added as the sole sterol ester in the formulations of the invention, i. no further sterol esters are included in the preparation.

Also in perfumed antiperspirant spray formulations, the addition of oryzanol showed improved stability, in particular perfume, ie odor stability. That after appropriate storage time, temperature (+ 6 ° C, 40 ° C) and light irradiation (Li), the oryzanol-added preparations have a constant odor effect.

PTDEO PTDEO PTDEO PTDEO PTDEO PTDEO PTDEO PTDEO

0 # 18 # 183 # 184 # 185 # 186 # 187 # 188 # 189 2 ₂ M ₆ M ₈ M _ttt onaeonaeonae with without with or without with without 0.03% Oryzano 0.03% Oryzano 0.03% Oryzano 0.03% Oryza Oryzano I Oryzano I Oryzano I Oryzano nol IIII

+6 100 100 100 100 100 100 100 100

RT 80 90 90 90 90 95 90 90

B40 50 60 80 80 80 85 50 80

Li 25 25 70 50 20 25 - -

+6 100 100 100 100 100 100 100 100

RT 80 90 80 90 90 90 80 90

B40 40 60 65 70 60 65 50 70

Li 25 25 50 30 20 20 - -

+6 90 100 100 100 100 100 100 100

RT 80 90 80 90 85 90 85 80

B40 30 50 25 40 55 60 40 60

Li 25 25 60 30 20 20 - -

Li: light irradiation

Antiperspirant active ingredients in the context of the present application are in particular to be selected from the following groups.

The following list of advantageous antiperspirant active agents should not be restrictive in any way:

Aluminum salts:

• Aluminum salts such as aluminum chloride AICI3, aluminum sulfate AI2 (S04) 3

• Aluminum chlorides of the empirical empirical formula [AI2 (OH) mCln], where m + n = 6

• Aluminum chlorohydrate [Al2 (OH) 5Cl] x H20

Standard AI complexes: Locron P (Clariant), Micro-Dry (Reheis), ACH-331 (Summit), Aloxicoll PF 40 (Giulini). o Activated Al complexes: Reach 501 (Reheis), AACH-324 (Summit), AACH-7171

(Summit), Aloxicoll P (Giulini), Aloxicoll SD100

• Aluminum sesquichlorohydrate [Al2 (OH) 4,5CI1,5] x H20

o Standard Al complexes: Aluminum sesquichlorohydrate (Reheis), AACH-308 (Summit) o Activated Al complexes: Reach 301 (Reheis)

, Aluminum dichlorohydrate [Al 2 (OH) 4Cl 2] x H 2 O

Aluminum-zirconium salts:

• aluminum / zirconium trichlorohydrex glycine [Al4Zr (OH) 13Cl3] x H20 x Gly

o Standard Al / Zr Complexes: Rezal 33GP (Reheis), AZG-7164 (Summit), Zirconal P3G (Giulini)

Activated Al / Zr Complexes: Reach AZZ 902 (Reheis), AAZG-7160 (Summit), Zirconal AP3G (Giulini)

• aluminum / zirconium tetrachlorhydrex glycine [Al4Zr (OH) 12CI4] x H20 x Gly

o Standard Al / Zr complexes: Rezal 36G (Reheis), AZG-368 (Summit), Zircon L435G

(Giulini)

o Activated Al / Zr Complexes: Reach 908 (Reheis), AAZG-7167 (Summit), Zirconal AP4G (Giulini)

• Aluminum / Zirconium Pentachlorohydrex Glycine [Al8 Zr (OH) 23 Cl5] x H20 x Gly

• Aluminum / Zirconium Octachlorhydrex Glycine [Al8 Zr (OH) 20 Cl8] x H20 x Gly

However, it is also advantageous to use glycine-free aluminum / zirconium salts.

Aluminum salts can be used not only as powders, but also in dissolved "aqueous" form.

The antiperspirant active ingredients from the previously described groups are in the

formulations according to the invention preferably in an amount of from 1 to 30% by weight, based on the total mass of the preparation, i. including the possibly existing propellants used.

When using e.g. about 33.3 wt.% ACH (aluminum chlorohydrate, 50% aq.) in the

A solution for an aerosol spray (without propellant gas) and a filling ratio of about 30:70 (active substance solution to propellant gas), a proportion of about 5 wt.% ACH will be present in the final product.

The active ingredient solution is the sum of all components without the propellant gas. AT active ingredients are advantageously used in a proportion of 30-40% by weight in the active substance solution (without propellant gas) and to a proportion of 3-8% by weight in the overall preparation (with propellant gas).

The deodorant agents are advantageously selected

Here, too, it can be seen that these disadvantages can be avoided in particular in the case of preparations which comprise substances which lead to a parfumine stability, such as aluminum chlorohydrates, and thus to a reduced olfactory consumer relevance, by the addition of sterol esters, in particular oryzanol.

The cosmetic or dermatological preparations according to the invention may further contain cosmetic adjuvants and active ingredients such as are commonly used in such preparations, for. As agents, preservatives, preservatives, bactericides, substances for preventing foaming, dyes and color pigments, thickeners, moisturizing and / or moisturizing substances or other conventional ingredients of a cosmetic or dermatological formulation such as polyols, polymers, foam stabilizers, organic solvents or silicone derivatives, if the additive does not impair or preclude the required properties in terms of stability.

The following examples illustrate preparations according to the invention. The

Numbers are parts by weight based on the total mass of the preparation, unless stated otherwise. example recipes

1 . Un perfumed AT spray

% Wt.

inci in the drug solution

Propylene Carbonates 0.5

Disteardimonium hectorite 4

Isopropyl palmitate 8

Cyclomethicone + dimethiconol 3

Cyclomethicone ad 100

Oryzanol 0.03

Aluminum Chlorohydrate 35

Persea Gratissima Oil 0.5

Octyl dodecanol 0.5

Dimethicone 2

2. P IT atomizer

inc.% wt.

Oryzanol 0.03

Aqua + Aluminum Sesquichlorohydrate 0, 1

Aluminum chlorohydrate 26

Coco-Caprylate / Caprate 4,5

Dicaprylyl ether 5

Ceteareth-20 2

Glyceryl Stearate + Ceteareth-20 + Cetearyl

Alcohol + Cetyl Palmitate + Ceteareth-12 4

Perfume 1

Glycerol 2

Sodium Chloride 0.01 Aqua ad 100. anhydrous AT stick

inc.% wt.

Aluminum Zirconium Tetrachlorohydrex GLY 16

Oryzanol 0.03

Stearyl Alcohol 20

Hydrogenated Castor Oil 1, 5

Cyclomethicone ad 100

PPG-14 butyl ether 15

Octyldodecanol 0, 1

Glyceryl Stearate SE 0.4

Tale 3,5

Perfume 0.8

Claims

claims

1 . Cosmetic or dermatological deodorant and / or antiperspirant preparation,

comprising one or more deodorant and / or antiperspirant active ingredients and 0.01 to 2.4% by weight of one or more sterol esters, in particular oryzanol, based on the

Total mass of the preparation, characterized in that the preparation is not more than 0.4% by weight, based on the total mass of the preparation, of UV filters and / or

Butylhydroxytoluene.

2. Preparation according to claim 1, characterized in that less than 0.01 wt.%,

in particular 0% by weight, based on the total mass of the preparation, of UV filter and / or butylhydroxytoluene.

3. A preparation according to claim 1 or 2, characterized in that a total of at most 0.4 wt.%, Preferably 0 wt.%, Based on the total mass of the preparation, additional antioxidants, including UV filters and / or butylhydroxytoluene, are included.

4. Preparation according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the

Preparation is free of additional antioxidants, UV filters and butylated hydroxytoluene.

5. Preparation according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the

Preparation maximum 0.01 wt.%, Based on the total mass of the preparation.

6. Preparation according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the proportion of one or more sterol esters, in particular oryzanol, 0.02 to 0.04 wt.%, Based on the total mass of the preparation is.

7. Preparation according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the sole sterol ester in the preparation is oryzanol.

8. Preparation according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the proportion of antiperspirant active ingredients 30-40 wt.%, Based on the drug solution is.

9. Use of oryzanol in deodorant and / or antiperspirant preparations for

Product stabilization.

10. Use of oryzanol in deodorant and / or antiperspirant preparations for

Improvement of the perfume and / or color stability of the preparation compared to the stability of the preparation without oryzanol, characterized in that in the preparations no UV filters and / or butylhydroxytoluene are included.

1 1. Use according to claim 10, characterized in that no UV filters and no

Butylhydroxytoluene are included.

12. Use according to claim 10 or 1 1, characterized in that no further antioxidants are contained in the preparations.