EP1704898A1 - Oxidation protection of a cosmetic composition with rice germ oil - Google Patents
Oxidation protection of a cosmetic composition with rice germ oil Download PDFInfo
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- EP1704898A1 EP1704898A1 EP06003763A EP06003763A EP1704898A1 EP 1704898 A1 EP1704898 A1 EP 1704898A1 EP 06003763 A EP06003763 A EP 06003763A EP 06003763 A EP06003763 A EP 06003763A EP 1704898 A1 EP1704898 A1 EP 1704898A1
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- oil
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- particularly preferably
- oxidation
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Classifications
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/92—Oils, fats or waxes; Derivatives thereof, e.g. hydrogenation products thereof
- A61K8/922—Oils, fats or waxes; Derivatives thereof, e.g. hydrogenation products thereof of vegetable origin
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/96—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution
- A61K8/97—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution from algae, fungi, lichens or plants; from derivatives thereof
- A61K8/9783—Angiosperms [Magnoliophyta]
- A61K8/9789—Magnoliopsida [dicotyledons]
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
- A61Q19/00—Preparations for care of the skin
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
- A61Q19/00—Preparations for care of the skin
- A61Q19/10—Washing or bathing preparations
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K2800/00—Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
- A61K2800/20—Chemical, physico-chemical or functional or structural properties of the composition as a whole
- A61K2800/28—Rubbing or scrubbing compositions; Peeling or abrasive compositions; Containing exfoliants
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K2800/00—Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
- A61K2800/40—Chemical, physico-chemical or functional or structural properties of particular ingredients
- A61K2800/52—Stabilizers
- A61K2800/522—Antioxidants; Radical scavengers
Definitions
- Oxidation-sensitive preparations in the sense of the present specification are oils sensitive to oxidation, especially vegetable oils which have a high proportion of unsaturated fatty acids. This is characterized in particular by the iodine number.
- an oxidation-sensitive oil is an oil having an iodine value greater than 80.
- Further oxidation-sensitive substances in the context of the invention are plant extracts, the extracts of the plant families of Nymphaeaceae, Nelumbonaceae, Fabaceae and / or Leguminosae being particularly preferred.
- vegetable oils or active ingredients are often used to give the product a nourishing effect.
- vegetable oils are often used with a high proportion of unsaturated fatty acids, as they are very close to the natural skin lipids in structure and composition and are very well absorbed by the skin.
- the more unsaturated units present in an oil the greater its tendency to spoil by oxidative processes. In cosmetic products, this often leads to undesirable color and odor impairments.
- these vegetable oils are stabilized by additional stabilizers (such as BHT, propyl gallate, tocopherol acetates, EDTA, IDS, UV filters, benzophenones, etc.) in the formulation. Many of these substances are problematic and also cause considerable additional costs.
- a particular challenge is to find an alternative route to the long-term stabilization of this formulation containing vegetable oils.
- the content of rice germ oil 0.05 to 6 wt.%, Particularly preferably 0.2 to 5 wt.%, Very particularly preferably 0.5 to 2 wt.% Is. It is preferred if in addition an oxidation-sensitive substance is included. It is further preferred if the oxidation-sensitive substance is present in concentrations of at least 0.1% by weight, more preferably 0.5% by weight, very preferably 1% by weight, very preferably 5% by weight. It is preferred if the oxidation-sensitive substance has an iodine number of at least 80.
- the oxidation-sensitive substance contains an oxidizable vegetable oil or a plant extract, particularly preferably extracts of the plant families of the Nymphaeaceae, Nelumbonaceae, Fabaceae and / or Leguminosae. It is preferred if preparation at least 1 wt.%, Particularly preferably more than 2 wt.% Surfactant substance, most preferably with an HLB value between 3.8 to 8 or greater than 10, very exceptionally particularly preferably between 5 and 7 or greater than 12 contains.
- the surface-active substance is selected from the group of ethoxylated fatty alcohol derivatives having a C chain length greater than 10 and a mean degree of ethoxylation between 2 and 75, more preferably between 2 and 39, most preferably between 2 and 5.
- Non-ionic surfactants are polyether chains. Nonionic surfactants do not form ions in an aqueous medium.
- Quaternary surfactants contain at least one N atom covalently bonded to 4 alkyl and / or aryl groups. This results in a positive charge regardless of the pH.
- Advantageous quaternary surfactants are alkylbetaine, alkylamidopropylbetaine and alkylamidopropylhydroxysulfaine.
- Cationic surfactants can furthermore preferably be chosen, for the purposes of the present invention, from the group of quaternary ammonium compounds, in particular benzyltrialkylammonium chlorides or bromides, such as benzyldimethylstearylammonium chloride, furthermore alkyltrialkylammonium salts, for example cetyltrimethylammonium chloride or bromide, alkyldimethylhydroxyethylammonium chlorides or bromides, dialkyldimethylammonium chlorides or bromides, alkylamidethyltrimethylammonium ether sulfates Alkylpyridinium salts, for example lauryl or cetylpyrimidinium chloride, imidazoline derivatives and compounds having a cationic character such as amine oxides, for example alkyldimethylamine oxides or alkylaminoethyldimethylamine oxides. Cetyltrimethylammonium salts are particularly advantageous to use.
- anionic and / or amphoteric surfactants with one or more nonionic surfactants.
- the following surfactants have proved to be particularly advantageous for use: sodium acylglutamate, sodium lauroyl sarcosinate, sodium isethionate, disodium laurylsulfosuccinate, sodium laureth sulfate, sodium parethsulfate, alkylamidopropylbetaine, sodium alkylamphodiacetate, alkylpolyglycosides, such as laurylglucoside, decylglycoside and cocoglycoside.
- Emulsifiers may be added to the preparations according to the invention.
- the silicone emulsifiers can advantageously be selected from the group of the alkyl methicone copolyols and / or alkyl dimethicone copolyols, in particular from the group of compounds which are characterized by the following chemical structure: in which X and Y are independently selected from the group H (hydrogen) and the branched and unbranched alkyl groups, acyl groups and alkoxy groups having 1 to 24 carbon atoms, p is a number from 0 to 200, q represents a number from 1 to 40, and r represents a number from 1 to 100.
- silicone emulsifiers which are particularly advantageous for the purposes of the present invention are dimethicone copolyols which are sold under the trade names ABIL® EM 90, ABIL® EM 97 and ABIL® B 88183.
- the emulsifiers are advantageously selected from the group of sorbitan esters and sucrose esters, in particular the branched and unbranched alkyl esters and alkenyl esters having carbon chains of 4 to 24 carbon atoms, preferably sorbitan stearate, sorbitan oleate, glyceryl sorbitan stearate, sucrose monostearate, sucrose monolaurate, sucrose palmitate.
- the emulsifiers can be selected from the group of monoglycerol monocarboxylic monoesters, in particular those which by the structures wherein R 'represents a branched or unbranched acyl radical having 6-14 carbon atoms.
- R ' is selected from the group of unbranched acyl radicals.
- the emulsifiers can also be selected from the group of di- and triglycerol monocarboxylic monoesters.
- the di- or triglycerol units of the monocarboxylic acid monocarboxylic acid monocarboxylic acid esters or triglycerol monocarboxylic acid monesters according to the invention are present as linear, unbranched molecules, ie "monoglycerol molecules" etherified via the respective OH groups in the 1- or 3-position.
- the monocarboxylic acid monoesters according to the invention are preferably characterized by the following structure: where R "is a Kohlenwasserstdffrest, advantageously a branched or unbranched alkyl or alkenyl radical of 5 to 17 carbon atoms.
- the monocarboxylic acid esters of triglycerin according to the invention are preferably characterized by the following structure: wherein R "'represents a hydrocarbon radical, preferably a branched or unbranched alkyl or alkenyl radical alkyl radical of 5 to 17 carbon atoms.
- R "and R” ' are particularly favorably selected from the group of the unbranched alkyl radicals with odd C numbers, in particular with 9, 11 and 13 C atoms.
- triglyceryldüsostearat (nomenclature analog CTFA: polyglyceryl-3-diisostearat), isostearyl diglycerylsuccinate, Diglycerylsesquüsostearat (nomenclature analog CTFA: polyglyceryl-2-sesquüsostearat), triglycerylpolyhydroxystearate (nomenclature analog CTFA: polyglyceryl-2-polyhydroxystearat).
- the emulsifier or emulsifiers are selected from the group of mono-, oligo and polyethoxylated compounds, in particular polyethoxylated monohydric or polybasic alcohols or fatty acids, for example ceteareth-20, PEG-20-glyceryl stearate, steareth-20, PEG-20 Stearate, PEG-30 stearate, PEG-40 stearates, PEG-40 castor oil, PEG-1-glycerol sorbitan oleostearate, PEG-7 hydrogenated castor oil, PEG-40 sorbitan peroleate, PEG-45 dodecyl glycol copolymer.
- mono-, oligo and polyethoxylated compounds in particular polyethoxylated monohydric or polybasic alcohols or fatty acids, for example ceteareth-20, PEG-20-glyceryl stearate, steareth-20, PEG-20 Stearate, PEG-30 stearate, PEG-40
- Preparations according to the invention preferably contain polar oils as lipids.
- Polar oils are, for example, those from the group of lecithins and fatty acid triglycerides, namely the triglycerol esters of saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alkanecarboxylic acids having a chain length of 8 to 24, in particular 12 to 18, carbon atoms.
- the fatty acid triglycerides can be selected, for example, advantageously from the group of synthetic, semi-synthetic and natural oils, such as olive oil (iodine number 77-90), sunflower oil (iodine number 122-138), soybean oil (iodine number 124-132), peanut oil (iodine number 85-105 ), Rapeseed oil (iodine number 95-120), almond oil (iodine number 93-106), palm oil, coconut oil, castor oil (iodine number 82-90), wheat germ oil (iodine value 125-135), grape seed oil 125-142), safflower oil (iodine value 86-119) , Evening primrose oil (iodine number 145-162), macadamia nut oil (iodine value 74-76) and the like.
- synthetic oils such as olive oil (iodine number 77-90), sunflower oil (iodine number 122-138), soybean oil (iodine number
- Particularly advantageous polar lipids in the context of the present invention are all native lipids, such as. B. Olive oil (iodine number 77-90), sunflower oil (iodine number 122-138), soybean oil (iodine number 124-132), peanut oil (iodine number 85-105), rapeseed oil (iodine number 95-120), almond oil (iodine number 93-106), Palm oil, coconut oil, castor oil (iodine value 82-90), wheat germ oil (iodine number 125-135), grape seed oil 125-142), thistle oil (iodine value 86-119), evening primrose oil (iodine number 145-162), macadamia nut oil (iodine value 74-76), corn oil (Iodine number 103-130), avocado oil (iodine value 80-95) and the like and those listed below.
- B. Olive oil iodine number 77-90
- sunflower oil iod
- the oil phase may advantageously be selected from the group of dialkyl ethers, the group of saturated or unsaturated, branched or unbranched alcohols. It is particularly advantageous if the oil phase contains or consists entirely of C 12-15 -alkyl benzoate. Furthermore, the oil phase can be advantageously selected from the group of Guerbet alcohols. Guerbet alcohols are named after Marcel Guerbet, who first described their production. They arise according to the reaction equation by oxidation of an alcohol to an aldehyde, by aldol condensation of the aldehyde, elimination of water from the aldol and hydrogenation of allyl aldehyde. Guerbet alcohols are fluid even at low temperatures and cause virtually no skin irritation.
- Guerbet alcohols in cosmetics is known per se. Such species are usually characterized by the structure out.
- R 1 and R 2 are generally unbranched alkyl radicals.
- Guerbet alcohols preferred according to the invention are the 2-butyloctanol - it has the chemical structure and is available, for example, under the trade name Isofol® 12 from Condea Chemie GmbH - and 2-hexyldecanol - it has the chemical structure and is available, for example, under the trade name Isofol® 16 from Condea Chemie GmbH.
- Mixtures of Guerbet alcohols according to the invention are also advantageously usable according to the invention.
- Mixtures of 2-butyloctanol and 2-hexyldecanol are available, for example, under the trade name Isofol® 14 from Condea Chemie GmbH.
- Particularly advantageous lipids in the context of the present invention are the substances listed below: Manufacturer trade name INCI name Stearinerie Dubois Fils DUB VCI 10 Isodecyl Neopentanoate Henkel Cognis Cetiol SN Cetearyl Isononanoate Unichema isopropyl palmitate isopropyl palmitate Henkel Cognis Eutanol G octyldodecanol Bayer AG, Dow Corning Silicone oil VP 1120 Phenyl trimethicone Henkel Cognis isopropyl Isopropyl stearate WITCO, Goldschmidt Finsolv TN C12-15 alkyl benzoates Dr. Straetmans Dermofeel BGC Butylene Glycol Caprylate / Caprate Unichema Huels Miglyol 812 Caprylic / Capric Triglycerides
- Non-polar oils are, for example, those which are selected from the group of branched and unbranched hydrocarbons and waxes, in particular Vaseline (petrolatum), paraffin oil, squalane and squalene, polyolefins and hydrogenated polyisobutenes.
- polyolefins polydecenes are the preferred substances.
- Solvent ME Isohexadecane DEA mineral oil (Lief. Hansen & Rosenthal) Pioneer 2076 Mineral oil Tudapetrol DEA mineral oil (Lief.
- Fat and / or wax components which can advantageously be used according to the invention can be selected from the group of vegetable waxes, animal waxes, mineral waxes and petrochemical waxes.
- Favorable according to the invention are, for example, candelilla wax, carnauba wax, Japan wax, esparto grass wax, cork wax, guaruma wax, rice germ oil wax, sugar cane wax, berry wax, ouricury wax, montan wax, jojoba wax, shea butter, beeswax, shellac wax, spermaceti, lanolin (wool wax), crepe fat, ceresin, ozokerite (earth wax).
- Paraffin waxes and micro waxes provided that the conditions required in the main claim are met.
- silicone oils may be present as monomers, which are typically characterized by structural elements, as follows:
- Silicone oils are high molecular weight synthetic polymeric compounds in which silicon atoms via oxygen atoms chain and / or net-like linked and the remaining valences of silicon by hydrocarbon radicals (usually methyl, more rarely ethyl, propyl, phenyl groups, etc.) are saturated ,
- linear silicones having several siloxy units which are advantageously used according to the invention, they are generally characterized by structural elements as follows: wherein the silicon atoms can be substituted with identical or different alkyl radicals and / or aryl radicals, which are here generalized by the radicals R 1 - R 4 (to say that the number of different radicals is not necessarily limited to 4).
- m can assume values of 2 - 200,000.
- the linear silicone oils are called polyorganosiloxanes; the methyl-substituted polyorganosiloxanes, which are the quantitatively most important compounds of this group and are characterized by the following structural formula are also referred to as polydimethylsiloxane or dimethicone (INCl).
- Dimethicones are available in different chain lengths or with different molecular weights. Dimethicone different chain length and phenyltrimethicones are particularly advantageous linear silicone oils in the context of the present invention.
- Cyclic silicones which are advantageously used in accordance with the invention are generally characterized by structural elements as follows wherein the silicon atoms can be substituted with identical or different alkyl radicals and / or aryl radicals, which are here generalized by the radicals R 1 - R 4 (to say that the number of different radicals is not necessarily limited to 4).
- n can assume values of 3/2 to 20. Broken values for n take into account that odd numbers of siloxyl groups may be present in the cycle.
- phenyltrimethicone is chosen as the silicone oil.
- Other silicone oils for example dimethicone, phenyldimethicone, cyclomethicone (octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane), for example hexamethylcyclotrisiloxane, polydimethylsiloxane, poly (methylphenylsiloxane), cetyldimethicone, behenoxydimethicone, are to be used advantageously in the context of the present invention.
- the preparations according to the invention may furthermore comprise cosmetic adjuvants conventionally used in such preparations, for example preservatives, perfumes, substances for preventing foaming, foam stabilizers, Dyes, pigments, which have a coloring effect, thickeners, surface-active substances, emulsifiers, softening, moistening and / or moisturizing substances, moisturizing agents, film formers, fats, oils, waxes, alcohols, polyols and their toxicologically tolerated ethers and esters, branched and / or unbranched hydrocarbons, other antioxidants, stabilizers, pH regulators, bodying agents, bactericides, deodorants, antimicrobials, antistatic agents, UV absorbers, complexing and sequestering agents, pearlescing agents, polymers, electrolytes, organic solvents, silicone derivatives, plant extracts, vitamins and / or other active ingredients or other conventional ingredients of a cosmetic or dermatological formulation.
- solubilizers eg for incorporation of hydrophobic components
- the total amount of the excipients is for example 0.001 to 15 wt .-%, preferably 0.01 to 10 wt .-%, each based on the total weight of the preparation.
- the amount of thickening agent is for example 0.05 to 5.0 wt .-%, preferably 0.1 to 3.0 wt .-%, in particular 0.15 to 2.0 wt .-%, each based on the total weight of Preparation.
- the following examples are intended to illustrate the present invention without limiting it.
- the numerical values in the examples are percentages by weight, based on the total weight of the respective preparations.
- Wijs cyclohexane / glacial acetic acid method
- the contents given in the recipe are the active contents of the respective raw materials .
- the ground soap noodles are dosed with the color slurry and the other components in a conventional soap mixer (screw mixer with perforated screen), homogenized by repeated mixing, discharged via an extruder, cut and processed in the usual way to pieces.
- a conventional soap mixer screw mixer with perforated screen
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Abstract
Description
Die vorliegende Erfindung betrifft den Schutz kosmetischer Formulierungen gegen oxidative Degradation und so geschützte Zubereitungen.
Oxidationsempfindliche Zubereitungen im Sinne der vorliegenden Schrift sind oxidationsemfindliche Öle besonders Pflanzenöle, die eine hohen Anteil an ungesättigten Fettsäuren haben. Dies wird insbesondere über die lodzahl charakterisiert. Im Sinne der Erfindung ist ein oxidationsempfindliches Öl ein Öl mit einer lodzahl größer als 80. Weitere Oxidationsempfindliche Substanzen im Sinn der Erfindung sind pflanzliche Extrakte, besonders bevorzugt sind hier die Extrakte der Pflanzenfamilien der Nymphaeaceae, Nelumbonaceae, Fabaceae und/oder Leguminosae.The present invention relates to the protection of cosmetic formulations against oxidative degradation and thus protected preparations.
Oxidation-sensitive preparations in the sense of the present specification are oils sensitive to oxidation, especially vegetable oils which have a high proportion of unsaturated fatty acids. This is characterized in particular by the iodine number. For the purposes of the invention, an oxidation-sensitive oil is an oil having an iodine value greater than 80. Further oxidation-sensitive substances in the context of the invention are plant extracts, the extracts of the plant families of Nymphaeaceae, Nelumbonaceae, Fabaceae and / or Leguminosae being particularly preferred.
In Wasser enthaltenden kosmetischen Formulierungen werden häufig pflanzliche Öle oder Wirkstoffe eingesetzt, um dem Produkt eine pflegende Wirkung zu verleihen. Hierzu werden oftmals Pflanzenöle mit einem hohen Anteil an ungesättigten Fettsäuren eingesetzt, da diese den natürlichen Hautlipiden in Struktur und Zusammensetzung sehr nahe kommen und sehr gut von der Haut aufgenommen werden. Je mehr ungesättigte Einheiten in einem Öl vorhanden sind desto größer ist dessen Neigung durch oxidative Prozesse zu verderben. In kosmetischen Produkten führt dies häufig zu unerwünschten Farb-und Geruchsbeeinträchtigungen.
Bisher werden diese pflanzlichen Öle durch zusätzliche Stabilisatoren (wie BHT, Propyl Gallate, Tocopherol Acetate, EDTA, IDS, UV Filter, Benzophenone etc.) in der Formulierung stabilisiert. Viele dieser Stoffe sind problembehaftet und verursachen zudem erhebliche Mehrkosten.In cosmetic formulations containing water, vegetable oils or active ingredients are often used to give the product a nourishing effect. For this purpose, vegetable oils are often used with a high proportion of unsaturated fatty acids, as they are very close to the natural skin lipids in structure and composition and are very well absorbed by the skin. The more unsaturated units present in an oil, the greater its tendency to spoil by oxidative processes. In cosmetic products, this often leads to undesirable color and odor impairments.
So far, these vegetable oils are stabilized by additional stabilizers (such as BHT, propyl gallate, tocopherol acetates, EDTA, IDS, UV filters, benzophenones, etc.) in the formulation. Many of these substances are problematic and also cause considerable additional costs.
Eine besondere Herausforderung besteht darin, einen alternativen Weg zur Langzeitstabilsierung dieser pflanzlichen Öle enthaltende Formulierung zu finden.A particular challenge is to find an alternative route to the long-term stabilization of this formulation containing vegetable oils.
Es wurden nun gefunden, daß die gravierenden Nachteile des Standes der Technik, insbesobndere die der mangelnden Farb- und Oxidationsstabilität vermieden werden können durch kosmetische Zubereitung enthaltend Reiskeimöl. So werden Geruchsbeeinträchtigungen und Qualitätsverminderungen von kosmetischen Zubereitungen in für den Fachmann nicht vorhersehbarer Weise überwunden.
Kosmetische Zubereitungen mit oxidationsempfindlichen Inhaltsstoffen werden für den Fachmann überraschend durch die Zugabe von Reisöl (Oryza sativa) stabilisiert. Insbesondere überrascht dies, da es sich bei dem Reisöl selbst um ein ungesättigtes Öl handelt. Reisölhaltige Zubereitungen eignen sich sowohl als Leave on Produkte wie Emulsionen, Körperöle, usw., als auch als Rinse off Produkte wie Dusch- und Badeprodukte, Shampoos, usw. Diese zeichnen sich dadurch aus, dass sie in weitem Maße in der Lage sind Verbrauchererwartungen zu erfüllen und dadurch eine beträchtliche Marktbedeutung aufweisen.
Dabei ist es bevorzugt, wenn der Gehalt an Reiskeimöl 0,05 bis 6 Gew.%, besonders bevorzugt 0,2 bis 5 Gew.%, ganz besonders bevorzugt 0,5 bis 2 Gew.% beträgt.
Dabei ist es bevorzugt, wenn zusätzlich eine oxidationsempfindliche Substanz enthalten ist.
Weiter ist es bevorzugt, wenn die oxidationsempfindliche Substanz in Konzentrationen von mindestens 0,1 Gew.%, besonders bevorzugt 0,5 Gew.%, ganz besonders bevorzugt 1 Gew.%, ganz besonders bevorzugt 5 Gew.% enthalten ist. Dabei ist es bevorzugt, wenn die oxidationsempfindliche Substanz eine Jodzahl von mindestens 80 aufweist. Weiter ist es bevorzugt, wenn die oxidationsempfindliche Substanz ein oxidierbares pflanzliches Öl oder einen pflanzlichen Extrakt, besonders bevorzugt Extrakte der Pflanzenfamilien der Nymphaeaceae, Nelumbonaceae, Fabaceae und/oder Leguminosae enthält. Dabei ist es bevorzugt, wenn Zubereitung mindestens 1 Gew.%, besonders bevorzugt mehr als 2 Gew.% oberflächenaktive Substanz, ganz besonders bevorzugt mit einem HLB Wert zwischen 3,8 bis 8 oder größer 10, ganz aussergewöhnlich besonders bevorzugt zwischen 5 und 7 oder größer 12 enthält.It has now been found that the serious disadvantages of the prior art, in particular the lack of color and oxidation stability can be avoided by cosmetic preparation containing rice germ oil. Thus, odor impairments and quality reductions of cosmetic preparations are overcome in a manner not foreseeable by the skilled person.
Cosmetic preparations with oxidation-sensitive ingredients are surprisingly stabilized by the skilled person by the addition of rice oil (Oryza sativa). In particular, this is surprising since the rice oil itself is an unsaturated oil. Rice oil-containing preparations are suitable both as leave-on products such as emulsions, body oils, etc., and as rinse-off products such as shower and bath products, shampoos, etc. These are characterized by being able to meet consumer expectations to a great extent and thereby have a significant market significance.
It is preferred if the content of rice germ oil 0.05 to 6 wt.%, Particularly preferably 0.2 to 5 wt.%, Very particularly preferably 0.5 to 2 wt.% Is.
It is preferred if in addition an oxidation-sensitive substance is included.
It is further preferred if the oxidation-sensitive substance is present in concentrations of at least 0.1% by weight, more preferably 0.5% by weight, very preferably 1% by weight, very preferably 5% by weight. It is preferred if the oxidation-sensitive substance has an iodine number of at least 80. It is further preferred if the oxidation-sensitive substance contains an oxidizable vegetable oil or a plant extract, particularly preferably extracts of the plant families of the Nymphaeaceae, Nelumbonaceae, Fabaceae and / or Leguminosae. It is preferred if preparation at least 1 wt.%, Particularly preferably more than 2 wt.% Surfactant substance, most preferably with an HLB value between 3.8 to 8 or greater than 10, very exceptionally particularly preferably between 5 and 7 or greater than 12 contains.
Dabei ist es bevorzugt, wenn die oberflächenaktive Substanz aus der Gruppe ethoxylierter Fettalkoholderivate mit einer C-Kettenlänge größer 10 und einem mittleren Ethoxylierungsgrad zwischen 2 und 75, besonders bevorzugt zwischen 2 und 39 ganz besonders bevorzugt zwischen 2 und 5 gewählt wird.It is preferred if the surface-active substance is selected from the group of ethoxylated fatty alcohol derivatives having a C chain length greater than 10 and a mean degree of ethoxylation between 2 and 75, more preferably between 2 and 39, most preferably between 2 and 5.
Weiter ist es bevorzugt, wenn als oberflächenaktive Substanzen anionische Tenside, besonders bevorzugt Alkyl- und/oder Alkylethersulfate in Anteilen von 2-25 Gew.%, bevorzugt 3-20 Gew.% und besonders bevorzugt 7,5-15 Gew.% enthält.
Weiter ist es bevorzugt, wenn sie weitere anionische, amphotere oder nicht ionische Tenside von 1-15 Gew.%, besonders bevorzugt 3-10 Gew.% und ganz besonders bevorzugt 4-7 Gew.% enthält.
Dabei ist es bevorzugt, wenn sie
- (a) 1 - 25 Gew.% eines oder mehrerer Alkyl- und/oder Alkylethersulfate,
- (b) 0,1 -20 Gew.% N-Acylglutamat,
- (c) wobei der Gehalt an freien Fettsäuren in den Zubereitungen geringer als 3 Gew.% bevorzugt geringer als 2 Gew. % besonders bevorzugt bis zu 1 Gew.%, aber in allen Fällen mindestens 0,2 Gew.% beträgt,
Weiter ist es bevorzugt, wenn die Zubereitung einen Lipidanteil von mindestens 5 Gew.%, bevorzugt mindestens 10 Gew.%, besonders bevorzugt mindestens 15 Gew.% aufweist.
Durch weitere Zugabe geringer Mengen von Oryzanol wird ein synergistischer Effekt erzielt der sich in überraschender Weise sogar zu Stabilisierung besonders oxidationsempfindlicher Substanzen eignet.
Daher ist es bevorzugt, wenn die Zubereitung zusätzlich mehr als 0,007 Gew.% Oryzanol, bevorzugt mehr als 0,01 Gew.% Oryzanol enthält.
Die Erfindung umfasst auch die Verwendung von erfindungsgemäßen Zubereitungen zur Körperpflege und/oder Körperreinigung.
Das Weglassen eines einzelnen Bestandteile beeinträchtigt die einzigartigen Eigenschaften der Gesamtzusammensetzung. Daher sind alle angegebenen Bestandteile der erfindungsgemäßen Zubereitungen zwangsläufig erforderlich, um die Erfindung auszuführen.It is further preferred if anionic surfactants, particularly preferably alkyl and / or alkyl ether sulfates, in proportions of from 2 to 25% by weight, preferably from 3 to 20% by weight and particularly preferably from 7.5 to 15% by weight, are present as surface-active substances.
It is further preferred if it contains further anionic, amphoteric or nonionic surfactants of 1-15% by weight, particularly preferably 3-10% by weight and very particularly preferably 4-7% by weight.
It is preferred if they
- (a) 1 to 25% by weight of one or more alkyl and / or alkyl ether sulfates,
- (b) 0.1-20% by weight of N-acyl glutamate,
- (c) wherein the content of free fatty acids in the preparations is less than 3% by weight, preferably less than 2% by weight, more preferably up to 1% by weight, but in all cases at least 0.2% by weight,
It is further preferred if the preparation has a lipid content of at least 5% by weight, preferably at least 10% by weight, particularly preferably at least 15% by weight.
By further addition of small amounts of oryzanol, a synergistic effect is achieved, which is surprisingly even suitable for stabilizing particularly oxidation-sensitive substances.
Therefore, it is preferred if the preparation additionally contains more than 0.007% by weight of oryzanol, preferably more than 0.01% by weight of oryzanol.
The invention also encompasses the use of preparations according to the invention for personal care and / or body cleansing.
The omission of a single component affects the unique properties of the overall composition. Therefore, all stated constituents of the preparations according to the invention are necessarily required to carry out the invention.
Erfindungsgemäße Zubereitungen enthalten bevorzugt Tenside. Tenside sind amphiphile Stoffe, die organische, unpolare Substanzen in Wasser lösen können. Sie sorgen, bedingt durch ihren spezifischen Molekülaufbau mit mindestens einem hydrophilen und einem hydrophoben Molekülteil, für eine Herabsetzung der Oberflächenspannung des Wassers, die Benetzung der Haut, die Erleichterung der Schmutzentfernung und -lösung, ein leichtes Abspülen und -je nach Wunsch- für Schaumregulierung.
Bei den hydrophilen Anteilen eines Tensidmoleküls handelt es sich meist um polare funktionelle Gruppen, beispielweise -COO-, -OSO3 2-, -SO3 -, während die hydrophoben Teile in der Regel unpolare Kohlenwasserstoffreste darstellen. Tenside werden im allgemeinen nach Art und Ladung des hydrophilen Molekülteils klassifiziert. Hierbei können vier Gruppen unterschieden werden:
- anionische Tenside,
- kationische Tenside,
- amphotere Tenside und
- nichtionische Tenside.
The hydrophilic portions of a surfactant molecule are usually polar functional groups, for example -COO - , -OSO 3 2- , -SO 3 - , while the hydrophobic parts are usually nonpolar hydrocarbon radicals. Surfactants are generally classified according to the nature and charge of the hydrophilic part of the molecule. Here four groups can be distinguished:
- anionic surfactants,
- cationic surfactants,
- amphoteric surfactants and
- nonionic surfactants.
Typisch für nicht-ionische Tenside sind Polyether-Ketten. Nicht-ionische Tenside bilden in wäßrigem Medium keine lonen.Typical of non-ionic surfactants are polyether chains. Nonionic surfactants do not form ions in an aqueous medium.
Vorteilhaft zu verwendende anionische Tenside sind
Acylaminosäuren (und deren Salze), wie
- 1. Acylglutamate, beispielsweise Natriumacylglutamat, Di-TEA-palmitoylaspartat und Natrium Caprylic/ Capric Glutamat,
- 2. Sarcosinate, beispielsweise Myristoyl Sarcosin, TEA-lauroyl Sarcosinat, Natriumlauroylsarcosinat und Natriumcocoylsarkosinat,
- 1. Carbonsäuren, beispielsweise Laurinsäure, Aluminiumstearat, Magnesiumalkanolat und Zinkundecylenat,
Sulfonsäuren und Salze, wie
- 1. Acyl-isethionate, z.B. Natrium-/ Ammoniumcocoyl-isethionat,
- 2. Alkylsulfonate, beispielsweise Natriumcocosmonoglyceridsulfat, Natrium C12-14 Olefin-sulfonat, Natriumlaurylsulfoacetat und Magnesium PEG-3 Cocamidsulfat,
- 3. Sulfosuccinate, beispielsweise Dioctylnatriumsulfosuccinat, Dinatriumlaurethsulfosuccinat, Dinatriumlaurylsulfosuccinat, Dinatriumundecylenamido-MEA-Sulfosuccinat und PEG-5 Laurylcitrat Sulfosuccinat.
Schwefelsäureester, wie
- 1. Alkylethersulfat, beispielsweise Natrium-, Ammonium-, Magnesium-, MIPA-, TIPA-Laurethsulfat, Natriummyrethsulfat und Natrium C12-13-Parethsulfat,
- 2. Alkylsulfate, beispielsweise Natrium-, Ammonium- und TEA-Laurylsulfat.
Acylamino acids (and their salts), such as
- 1. acylglutamates, for example sodium acylglutamate, di-TEA-palmitoylaspartate and sodium caprylic / capric glutamate,
- 2. sarcosinates, for example myristoyl sarcosine, TEA lauroyl sarcosinate, sodium lauroyl sarcosinate and sodium cocoyl sarcosinate,
- 1. carboxylic acids, for example lauric acid, aluminum stearate, magnesium alkoxide and zinc undecylenate,
Sulfonic acids and salts, such as
- 1. acyl isethionates, eg sodium / ammonium cocoyl isethionate,
- 2. alkyl sulfonates, for example sodium coconut monoglyceride sulfate, sodium C 12-14 olefin sulfonate, sodium lauryl sulfoacetate and magnesium PEG-3 cocamide sulfate,
- 3. Sulfosuccinates, for example dioctyl sodium sulfosuccinate, disodium laureth sulfosuccinate, disodium lauryl sulfosuccinate, disodium undecylenamido MEA sulfosuccinate and PEG-5 lauryl citrate sulfosuccinate.
Sulfuric acid esters, such as
- 1. alkyl ether sulfate, for example sodium, ammonium, magnesium, MIPA, TIPA laureth sulfate, sodium myreth sulfate and sodium C 12-13 pareth sulfate,
- 2. Alkyl sulfates, for example sodium, ammonium and TEA lauryl sulfate.
Vorteilhaft zu verwendende kationische Tenside sind
- 1. Alkylamine,
- 2. Alkylimidazole,
- 3. Ethoxylierte Amine und
- 4. Quaternäre Tenside.
- 5. Esterquats
- 1. alkylamines,
- 2. alkylimidazoles,
- 3. Ethoxylated amines and
- 4. Quaternary surfactants.
- 5. Esterquats
Quaternäre Tenside enthalten mindestens ein N-Atom, das mit 4 Alkyl- und/oder Arylgruppen kovalent verbunden ist. Dies führt, unabhängig vom pH Wert, zu einer positiven Ladung. Vorteilhafte quaternäre Tenside sind Alkylbetain, Alkylamidopropylbetain und Alkylamidopropylhydroxysulfain. Kationische Tenside können ferner bevorzugt im Sinne der vorliegenden Erfindung gewählt werden aus der Gruppe der quaternären Ammoniumverbindungen, insbesondere Benzyltrialkylammoniumchloride oder -bromide, wie beispielsweise Benzyldimethylstearylammoniumchlorid, ferner Alkyltrialkylammoniumsalze, beispielsweise beispielsweise Cetyltrimethylammoniumchlorid oder -bromid, Alkyldimethylhydroxyethylammoniumchloride oder -bromide, Dialkyldimethylammoniumchloride oder -bromide, Alkylamidethyltrimethylammoniumethersulfate, Alkylpyridiniumsalze, beispielsweise Lauryl- oder Cetylpyrimidiniumchlorid, Imidazolinderivate und Verbindungen mit kationischem Charakter wie Aminoxide, beispielsweise Alkyldimethylaminoxide oder Alkylaminoethyldimethylaminoxide. Vorteilhaft sind insbesondere Cetyltrimethylammoniumsalze zu verwenden.Quaternary surfactants contain at least one N atom covalently bonded to 4 alkyl and / or aryl groups. This results in a positive charge regardless of the pH. Advantageous quaternary surfactants are alkylbetaine, alkylamidopropylbetaine and alkylamidopropylhydroxysulfaine. Cationic surfactants can furthermore preferably be chosen, for the purposes of the present invention, from the group of quaternary ammonium compounds, in particular benzyltrialkylammonium chlorides or bromides, such as benzyldimethylstearylammonium chloride, furthermore alkyltrialkylammonium salts, for example cetyltrimethylammonium chloride or bromide, alkyldimethylhydroxyethylammonium chlorides or bromides, dialkyldimethylammonium chlorides or bromides, alkylamidethyltrimethylammonium ether sulfates Alkylpyridinium salts, for example lauryl or cetylpyrimidinium chloride, imidazoline derivatives and compounds having a cationic character such as amine oxides, for example alkyldimethylamine oxides or alkylaminoethyldimethylamine oxides. Cetyltrimethylammonium salts are particularly advantageous to use.
Vorteilhaft zu verwendende amphotere Tenside sind
- 1. Acyl-/dialkylethylendiamin, beispielsweise Natriumacylamphoacetat, Dinatriumacylamphodipropionat, Dinatriumalkylamphodiacetat, Natriumacylamphohydroxypropylsulfonat, Dinatriumacylamphodiacetat und Natriumacylamphopropionat,
- 2. N-Alkylaminosäuren, beispielsweise Aminopropylalkylglutamid, Alkylaminopropionsäure, Natriumalkylimidodipropionat und Lauroamphocarboxyglycinat.
- 1. acyl / dialkylethylenediamine, for example sodium acylamphoacetate, disodium acylamphodipropionate, disodium alkylamphodiacetate, sodium acylamphohydroxypropylsulfonate, disodium acylamphodiacetate and sodium acylamphopropionate,
- 2. N-alkylamino acids, for example aminopropylalkylglutamide, alkylaminopropionic acid, sodium alkylimidodipropionate and lauroamphocarboxyglycinate.
Vorteilhaft zu verwendende nicht-ionische Tenside sind
- 1. Alkohole,
- 2. Alkanolamide, wie Cocamide MEA/ DEA/ MIPA,
- 3. Aminoxide, wie Cocoamidopropylaminoxid,
- 4. Ester, die durch Veresterung von Carbonsäuren mit Ethylenoxid, Glycerin, Sorbitan oder anderen Alkoholen entstehen,
- 5. Ether, beispielsweise ethoxylierte/propoxylierte Alkohole, ethoxylierte/ propoxylierte Ester, ethoxylierte/ propoxylierte Glycerinester, ethoxylierte/ propoxylierte Cholesterine, ethoxylierte/ propoxylierte Triglyceridester, ethoxyliertes propoxyliertes Lanolin, ethoxylierte/ propoxylierte Polysiloxane, propoxylierte POE-Ether und Alkylpolyglycoside wie Laurylglucosid, Decylglycosid und Cocoglycosid.
- 7. Polyglycerinester, Diglycerinester, Monoglycerinester
- 8. Methylglucosester, Ester von Hydroxysäuren
- 1. Alcohols,
- 2. alkanolamides, such as cocamide MEA / DEA / MIPA,
- 3. amine oxides, such as cocoamidopropylamine oxide,
- 4. Esters formed by esterification of carboxylic acids with ethylene oxide, glycerol, sorbitan or other alcohols,
- 5. Ethers, for example ethoxylated / propoxylated alcohols, ethoxylated / propoxylated esters, ethoxylated / propoxylated glycerol esters, ethoxylated / propoxylated cholesterols, ethoxylated / propoxylated triglyceride esters, ethoxylated propoxylated lanolin, ethoxylated / propoxylated polysiloxanes, propoxylated POE ethers and alkyl polyglycosides such as lauryl glucoside, decyl glycoside and cocoglycoside.
- 7. Polyglycerol esters, diglycerol esters, monoglycerol esters
- 8. Methyl glucose esters, esters of hydroxy acids
Vorteilhaft ist ferner die Verwendung einer Kombination von anionischen und/oder amphoteren Tensiden mit einem oder mehreren nicht-ionischen Tensiden. Hier haben sich als besonders vorteilhaft folgende Tenside für den Einsatz erwiesen: Natriumacylglutamat, Natriumlauroylsarcosinat, Natriumisethionat, Dinatriumlaurylsulfosuccinat, Natriumlaurethsulfat, Natriumparethsulfat, Alkylamidopropylbetain, Natriumalkylamphodiacetat, Alkylpolyglycoside wie Laurylglucosid, Decylglycosid und Cocoglycosid.
Den erfindungsgemäßen Zubereitungen können Emulgatoren zugesetzt sein. Erfindungsgemäß können die Silikonemulgatoren vorteilhaft aus der Gruppe der Alkylmethiconcopolyole und/oder Alkyl-Dimethiconcopolyole gewählt werden, insbesondere aus der Gruppe der Verbindungen, welche gekennzeichnet sind durch die folgende chemische Struktur:
Emulsifiers may be added to the preparations according to the invention. According to the invention, the silicone emulsifiers can advantageously be selected from the group of the alkyl methicone copolyols and / or alkyl dimethicone copolyols, in particular from the group of compounds which are characterized by the following chemical structure:
Ein Beispiel für besonders vorteilhaft im Sinne der vorliegenden Erfindung zu verwendende Silikonemulgatoren sind Dimethiconcopolyole, welche unter den Warenbezeichnungen ABIL® EM 90, ABIL® EM 97 und ABIL® B 88183 verkauft werden.An example of silicone emulsifiers which are particularly advantageous for the purposes of the present invention are dimethicone copolyols which are sold under the trade names ABIL® EM 90, ABIL® EM 97 and ABIL® B 88183.
Der oder die W/O-Emulgatoren werden erfindungsgemäß vorzugsweise gewählt aus der folgenden Gruppe:
- Sorbitanstearat, Sorbitanoleat, Lecithin, Glyceryllanolat, Lanolin, mikrokristallines Wachs (Cera microcristallina) im Gemisch mit Paraffinöl (Paraffinum liquidum), Ozokerit, hydriertem Ricinusöl, Glycerylisostearat, Polyglyceryl-3-Oleat, Wollwachssäuregemische, Wollwachsalkoholgemische, Pentaerythrithylisostearat, Polyglyceryl-3 Diisostearat, Sorbitan Oleat im Gemisch mit hydriertem Ricinusöl, Bienenwachs (Cera alba) und Stearinsäure, Natriumdihydroxycetylphosphat im Gemisch mit Isopropylhydroxycetylether, Methylglucosedioleat, Methylglucosedioleat im Gemisch mit Hydroxystearat und Bienenwachs, Mineralöl im Gemisch mit Petrolatum und Ozokerit und Glyceryloleat und Lanolinalkohol, Petrolatum im Gemisch mit Ozokerit und hydriertem Ricinusöl und Glycerylisostearat und Polyglyceryl-3-oleat, PEG-7-hydriertes Ricinusöl, Sorbitanoleat im Gemisch mit PEG-2-hydriertem Ricinusöl, Ozokerit und hydriertem Ricinusöl, Sorbitanisostearat im Gemisch mit PEG-2-hydriertem Ricinusöl, Polyglyceryl-4-isostearat, Polyglyceryl-4-isostearat, Hexyllaurat, Acrylat/ C10-30-Alkylacrylat-Crosspolymer, Sorbitanisostearat, Poloxamer 101, Polyglyceryl-2-dipolyhydroxystearat, Polyglyceryl-3-Diisostearat, Polyglyceryl-4-dipolyhydroxystearat, PEG-30-dipolyhydroxystearat, Diisostearoylpolyglyceryl-3-diisostearat, Polyglyceryl-2-dipolyhydroxystearat, Polyglyceryl-3-dipolyhydroxystearat, Polyglyceryl-4-dipolyhydroxystearat, Polyglyceryl-3-dioleat.
- Sorbitan stearate, sorbitan oleate, lecithin, glyceryl lanolate, lanolin, microcrystalline wax (Cera microcristallina) in admixture with paraffin oil, ozokerite, hydrogenated castor oil, glyceryl isostearate, polyglyceryl-3-oleate, wool wax acid mixtures, wool wax alcohol mixtures, pentaerythritol isostearate, polyglyceryl-3 diisostearate, sorbitan Oleat in a mixture with hydrogenated castor oil, beeswax (Cera alba) and stearic acid, Natriumdihydroxycetylphosphat in admixture with isopropyl hydroxycetyl ether, methyl glucose dioleate, methyl glucose dioleate in admixture with hydroxystearate and beeswax, mineral oil in admixture with petrolatum and ozokerite and glyceryl oleate and lanolin alcohol, petrolatum in admixture with ozokerite and hydrogenated Castor oil and glyceryl isostearate and polyglyceryl-3-oleate, PEG-7 hydrogenated castor oil, sorbitan oleate mixed with PEG-2-hydrogenated castor oil, ozokerite and hydrogenated castor oil, sorbitan isostearate in admixture with PEG-2-hydrogenated castor oil, polyglyc eryl 4-isostearate, polyglyceryl 4-isostearate, hexyl laurate, acrylate / C 10-30 alkyl acrylate crosspolymer, sorbitan isostearate, poloxamer 101, polyglyceryl-2-dipolyhydroxystearate, polyglyceryl-3-diisostearate, polyglyceryl-4-dipolyhydroxystearate, PEG-30 dipolyhydroxystearate, diisostearoylpolyglyceryl-3-diisostearate, polyglyceryl-2-dipolyhydroxystearate, polyglyceryl-3-dipolyhydroxystearate, polyglyceryl-4-dipolyhydroxystearate, polyglyceryl-3-dioleate.
Vorteilhaft werden die Emulgatoren gewählt aus der Gruppe der Sorbitanester und Saccharoseester, insbesondere der verzweigten und unverzweigten Alkylester und Alkenylester mit Kohlenstoffketten von 4 - 24 Kohlenstoffatomen, bevorzugt Sorbitanstearat, Sorbitanoleat, Glycerylsorbitanstearat, Saccharosemonostearat, Saccharosemonolaurat, Saccharosepalmitat.The emulsifiers are advantageously selected from the group of sorbitan esters and sucrose esters, in particular the branched and unbranched alkyl esters and alkenyl esters having carbon chains of 4 to 24 carbon atoms, preferably sorbitan stearate, sorbitan oleate, glyceryl sorbitan stearate, sucrose monostearate, sucrose monolaurate, sucrose palmitate.
Vorteilhaft können die Emulgatoren aus der Gruppe der Monoglycerin-monocarbonsäure-monoester gewählt werden, insbesondere solche, welche durch die Strukturen
Die diesen Estern zugrundeliegenden Säuren sind die
Vorteilhaft können die Emulgatoren auch aus der Gruppe der Di- und Triglycerin-monocarbonsäure-monoester gewählt werden. Erfindungsgemäß liegen die Di- bzw. Triglycerineinheiten der erfindungsgemäßen Diglycerin-monocarbonsäure-monoester bzw. Triglycerin-monocarbonsäure-monoester als lineare, unverzweigte Moleküle, also über die jeweiligen OH-Gruppen in 1- bzw. 3-Stellung veretherte "Monoglycerinmoleküle" vor.Advantageously, the emulsifiers can also be selected from the group of di- and triglycerol monocarboxylic monoesters. According to the invention, the di- or triglycerol units of the monocarboxylic acid monocarboxylic acid monocarboxylic acid esters or triglycerol monocarboxylic acid monesters according to the invention are present as linear, unbranched molecules, ie "monoglycerol molecules" etherified via the respective OH groups in the 1- or 3-position.
Die erfindungsgemäßen Monocarbonsäuremonoester sind bevorzugt durch folgende Struktur gekennzeichnet:
Die erfindungsgemäßen Monocarbonsäureester des Triglycerins sind bevorzugt durch folgende Struktur gekennzeichnet:
Die diesen Estern zugrunde liegenden Säuren sind die
Besonders günstig werden R" und R"' gewählt aus der Gruppe der unverzweigten Alkylreste mit ungeraden C-Zahlen, insbesondere mit 9, 11 und 13 C-Atomen.R "and R" 'are particularly favorably selected from the group of the unbranched alkyl radicals with odd C numbers, in particular with 9, 11 and 13 C atoms.
Vorteilhaft sind auch Triglyceryldüsostearat (Nomenklatur analog CTFA: Polyglyceryl-3-diisostearat), Isostearyldiglycerylsuccinat, Diglycerylsesquüsostearat (Nomenklatur analog CTFA: Polyglyceryl-2-sesquüsostearat), Triglycerylpolyhydroxystearat (Nomenklatur analog CTFA: Polyglyceryl-2-polyhydroxystearat).Also advantageous triglyceryldüsostearat (nomenclature analog CTFA: polyglyceryl-3-diisostearat), isostearyl diglycerylsuccinate, Diglycerylsesquüsostearat (nomenclature analog CTFA: polyglyceryl-2-sesquüsostearat), triglycerylpolyhydroxystearate (nomenclature analog CTFA: polyglyceryl-2-polyhydroxystearat).
Ebenfalls besonders vorteilhaft werden der oder die Emulgatoren gewählt aus der Gruppe der mono-, oligo und polyethoxylierten Verbindungen, insbesondere der polyethoxylierten ein- oder mehrbasigen Alkohole oder Fettsäuren, beispielsweise Ceteareth-20, PEG-20-Glycerylstearat, Steareth-20, PEG-20-Stearat, PEG-30-Stearat, PEG-40-Stearate, PEG-40-Rizinusöl, PEG-1-Glycerin-Sorbitan-Oleostearat, PEG-7 hydriertes Rizinusöl, PEG-40-Sorbitanperoleat, PEG-45-Dodecyl-Glycol-Copolymer.Likewise particularly advantageous, the emulsifier or emulsifiers are selected from the group of mono-, oligo and polyethoxylated compounds, in particular polyethoxylated monohydric or polybasic alcohols or fatty acids, for example ceteareth-20, PEG-20-glyceryl stearate, steareth-20, PEG-20 Stearate, PEG-30 stearate, PEG-40 stearates, PEG-40 castor oil, PEG-1-glycerol sorbitan oleostearate, PEG-7 hydrogenated castor oil, PEG-40 sorbitan peroleate, PEG-45 dodecyl glycol copolymer.
Erfindungsgemäße Zubereitungen enthalten bevorzugt als Lipide polare Öle. Polare Öle sind beispielsweise solche aus der Gruppe der Lecithine und der Fettsäuretriglyceride, namentlich der Triglycerinester gesättigter und/oder ungesättigter, verzweigter und/oder unverzweigter Alkancarbonsäuren einer Kettenlänge von 8 bis 24, insbesondere 12 bis 18 C-Atomen. Die Fettsäuretriglyceride können beispielsweise vorteilhaft gewählt werden aus der Gruppe der synthetischen, halbsynthetischen und natürlichen Öle, wie z.B. Olivenöl (Jodzahl 77-90), Sonnenblumenöl (Jodzahl 122-138), Sojaöl (Jodzahl 124-132), Erdnußöl (Jodzahl 85-105), Rapsöl (Jodzahl 95-120), Mandelöl (Jodzahl 93-106), Palmöl, Kokosöl, Rizinusöl (Jodzahl82-90), Weizenkeimöl (Jodzahl 125-135), Traubenkernöl 125-142), Distelöl (Jodzahl 86-119), Nachtkerzenöl (Jodzahl 145-162), Macadamianußöl (Jodzahl 74-76) und dergleichen mehr.
Besonders vorteilhafte polare Lipide im Sinne der vorliegenden Erfindung sind alle nativen Lipide, wie z. B. Olivenöl (Jodzahl 77-90), Sonnenblumenöl (Jodzahl 122-138), Sojaöl (Jodzahl 124-132), Erdnußöl (Jodzahl 85-105), Rapsöl (Jodzahl 95-120), Mandelöl (Jodzahl 93-106), Palmöl, Kokosöl, Rizinusöl (Jodzahl82-90), Weizenkeimöl (Jodzahl 125-135), Traubenkernöl 125-142), Distelöl (Jodzahl 86-119), Nachtkerzenöl (Jodzahl 145-162), Macadamianußöl (Jodzahl 74-76), Maiskeimöl (Jodzahl 103-130), Avocadoöl (Jodzahl 80-95) und dergleichen sowie die im folgenden aufgelisteten.
Particularly advantageous polar lipids in the context of the present invention are all native lipids, such as. B. Olive oil (iodine number 77-90), sunflower oil (iodine number 122-138), soybean oil (iodine number 124-132), peanut oil (iodine number 85-105), rapeseed oil (iodine number 95-120), almond oil (iodine number 93-106), Palm oil, coconut oil, castor oil (iodine value 82-90), wheat germ oil (iodine number 125-135), grape seed oil 125-142), thistle oil (iodine value 86-119), evening primrose oil (iodine number 145-162), macadamia nut oil (iodine value 74-76), corn oil (Iodine number 103-130), avocado oil (iodine value 80-95) and the like and those listed below.
Ferner kann die Ölphase vorteilhaft gewählt werden aus der Gruppe der Dialkylether, der Gruppe der gesättigten oder ungesättigten, verzweigten oder unverzweigten Alkohole. Es ist insbesondere vorteilhaft, wenn die Ölphase einen Gehalt an C12-15-Alkylbenzoat aufweist oder vollständig aus diesem besteht.
Ferner kann die Ölphase vorteilhaft gewählt werden aus der Gruppe der Guerbetalkohole. Guerbetalkohole sind benannt nach Marcel Guerbet, der ihre Herstellung erstmalig beschrieb. Sie entstehen nach der Reaktionsgleichung
Die Verwendung von Guerbet-Alkoholen in Kosmetika ist an sich bekannt. Solche Species zeichnen sich dann meistens durch die Struktur
Erfindungsgemäß vorteilhaft werden der oder die Guerbet-Alkohole gewählt aus der Gruppe, bei denen
R1 = Propyl, Butyl, Pentyl, Hexyl, Heptyl oder Octyl und
R2 = Hexyl, Heptyl, Octyl, Nonyl, Decyl, Undecyl, Dodecyl, Tridecyl oder Tetradecyl.
Erfindungsgemäß bevorzugte Guerbet-Alkohole sind das 2-Butyloctanol - es hat die chemische Struktur
Furthermore, the oil phase can be advantageously selected from the group of Guerbet alcohols. Guerbet alcohols are named after Marcel Guerbet, who first described their production. They arise according to the reaction equation
The use of Guerbet alcohols in cosmetics is known per se. Such species are usually characterized by the structure
Advantageously according to the invention, the Guerbet alcohol or alcohols are selected from the group in which
R 1 = propyl, butyl, pentyl, hexyl, heptyl or octyl and
R 2 = hexyl, heptyl, octyl, nonyl, decyl, undecyl, dodecyl, tridecyl or tetradecyl.
Guerbet alcohols preferred according to the invention are the 2-butyloctanol - it has the chemical structure
Besonders vorteilhafte Lipide im Sinne der vorliegenden Erfindung sind die im folgenden aufgelisteten Substanzen:
Unpolare Öle sind beispielsweise solche, welche gewählt werden aus der Gruppe der verzweigten und unverzweigten Kohlenwasserstoffe und -wachse, insbesondere Vaseline (Petrolatum), Paraffinöl, Squalan und Squalen, Polyolefine und hydrogenierte Polyisobutene. Unter den Polyolefinen sind Polydecene die bevorzugten Substanzen.
Erfindungsgemäß vorteilhaft zu verwendende Fett- und/oder Wachskomponenten können aus der Gruppe der pflanzlichen Wachse, tierischen Wachse, Mineralwachse und petrochemischen Wachse gewählt werden. Erfindungsgemäß günstig sind beispielsweise Candelillawachs, Carnaubawachs, Japanwachs, Espartograswachs, Korkwachs, Guarumawachs, Reiskeimölwachs, Zuckerrohrwachs, Beerenwachs, Ouricurywachs, Montanwachs, Jojobawachs, Shea Butter, Bienenwachs, Schellackwachs, Walrat, Lanolin (Wollwachs), Bürzelfett, Ceresin, Ozokerit (Erdwachs), Paraffinwachse und Mikrowachse, sofern die im Hauptanspruch geforderten Bedingungen eingehalten werden.Fat and / or wax components which can advantageously be used according to the invention can be selected from the group of vegetable waxes, animal waxes, mineral waxes and petrochemical waxes. Favorable according to the invention are, for example, candelilla wax, carnauba wax, Japan wax, esparto grass wax, cork wax, guaruma wax, rice germ oil wax, sugar cane wax, berry wax, ouricury wax, montan wax, jojoba wax, shea butter, beeswax, shellac wax, spermaceti, lanolin (wool wax), crepe fat, ceresin, ozokerite (earth wax). , Paraffin waxes and micro waxes, provided that the conditions required in the main claim are met.
Es kann ebenfalls vorteilhaft sein, die Ölphase der erfindungsgemäßen Zubereitungen teilweise oder vollständig aus der Gruppe der cyclischen und/oder linearen Silicone zu wählen, welche im Rahmen der vorliegenden Offenbarung auch als "Siliconöle" bezeichnet werden. Solche Silicone oder Siliconöle können als Monomere vorliegen, welche in der Regel durch Strukturelemente charakterisiert sind, wie folgt:
Silikonöle sind hochmolekulare synthetische polymere Verbindungen, in denen SiliciumAtome über Sauerstoff-Atome ketten- und/oder netzartig verknüpft und die restlichen Valenzen des Siliciums durch Kohlenwasserstoff-Reste (meist Methyl-, seltener Ethyl-, Propyl-, Phenyl-Gruppen u. a.) abgesättigt sind.Silicone oils are high molecular weight synthetic polymeric compounds in which silicon atoms via oxygen atoms chain and / or net-like linked and the remaining valences of silicon by hydrocarbon radicals (usually methyl, more rarely ethyl, propyl, phenyl groups, etc.) are saturated ,
Als erfindungsgemäß vorteilhaft einzusetzenden linearen Silicone mit mehreren Siloxyleinheiten werden im allgemeinen durch Strukturelemente charakterisiert wie folgt:
Systematisch werden die linearen Silikonöle als Polyorganosiloxane bezeichnet; die methylsubstituierten Polyorganosiloxane, welche die mengenmäßig bedeutendsten Verbindungen dieser Gruppe darstellen und sich durch die folgende Strukturformel auszeichnen
Erfindungsgemäß vorteilhaft einzusetzende cyclische Silicone werden im allgemeinen durch Strukturelemente charakterisiert, wie folgt
Vorteilhaft wird Phenyltrimethicon als Siliconöl gewählt. Auch andere Silikonöle, beispielsweise Dimethicon, Phenyldimethicon, Cyclomethicon (Octamethylcyclotetrasiloxan) beispielsweise Hexamethylcyclotrisiloxan, Polydimethylsiloxan, Poly(methylphenylsiloxan), Cetyldimethicon, Behenoxydimethicon sind vorteilhaft im Sinne der vorliegenden Erfindung zu verwenden.Advantageously, phenyltrimethicone is chosen as the silicone oil. Other silicone oils, for example dimethicone, phenyldimethicone, cyclomethicone (octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane), for example hexamethylcyclotrisiloxane, polydimethylsiloxane, poly (methylphenylsiloxane), cetyldimethicone, behenoxydimethicone, are to be used advantageously in the context of the present invention.
Die erfindungsgemäßen Zubereitungen können weiterhin kosmetische Hilfsstoffe enthalten, wie sie üblicherweise in solchen Zubereitungen verwendet werden, z.B. Konservierungsmittel, Parfüme, Substanzen zum Verhindern des Schäumens, Schaumstabilisatoren, Farbstoffe, Pigmente, die eine färbende Wirkung haben, Verdickungsmittel, oberflächenaktive Substanzen, Emulgatoren, weichmachende, anfeuchtende und/oder feuchhaltende Substanzen, rückfettende Agentien, Filmbildner, Fette, Öle, Wachse, Alkohole, Polyole und deren toxikologisch verträglichen Ether und Ester, verzweigte und/oder unverzweigte Kohlenwasserstoffe, weitere Antioxidantien, Stabilisatoren, pH-Wert-Regulatoren, Konsistenzgeber, Bakterizide, Desodorantien, antimikrobielle Stoffe, Antistatika, UV-Absorber, Komplexierungs- und Sequestrierungsagentien, Perlglanzagentien, Polymere, Elektrolyte, organische Lösungsmittel, Silikonderivate, Pflanzenextrakte, Vitamine und/oder andere Wirkstoffe oder andere übliche Bestandteile einer kosmetischen oder dermatologischen Formulierung. Auch Lösungsvermittler, z.B. zur Einarbeitung hydrophober Komponenten wie z.B. von Parfümzubereitungen können enthalten sein.The preparations according to the invention may furthermore comprise cosmetic adjuvants conventionally used in such preparations, for example preservatives, perfumes, substances for preventing foaming, foam stabilizers, Dyes, pigments, which have a coloring effect, thickeners, surface-active substances, emulsifiers, softening, moistening and / or moisturizing substances, moisturizing agents, film formers, fats, oils, waxes, alcohols, polyols and their toxicologically tolerated ethers and esters, branched and / or unbranched hydrocarbons, other antioxidants, stabilizers, pH regulators, bodying agents, bactericides, deodorants, antimicrobials, antistatic agents, UV absorbers, complexing and sequestering agents, pearlescing agents, polymers, electrolytes, organic solvents, silicone derivatives, plant extracts, vitamins and / or other active ingredients or other conventional ingredients of a cosmetic or dermatological formulation. Also solubilizers, eg for incorporation of hydrophobic components such as perfume preparations may be included.
Die Gesamtmenge der Hilfsstoffe beträgt beispielsweise 0,001 bis 15 Gew.-%, vorzugsweise 0,01 bis 10 Gew.-%, jeweils bezogen auf das Gesamtgewicht der Zubereitung.
Die Menge der Verdickungsmittel beträgt beispielsweise 0,05 bis 5,0 Gew.-%, vorzugsweise 0,1 bis 3,0 Gew.-%, insbesondere 0,15 bis 2,0 Gew.-%, jeweils bezogen auf das Gesamtgewicht der Zubereitung.The total amount of the excipients is for example 0.001 to 15 wt .-%, preferably 0.01 to 10 wt .-%, each based on the total weight of the preparation.
The amount of thickening agent is for example 0.05 to 5.0 wt .-%, preferably 0.1 to 3.0 wt .-%, in particular 0.15 to 2.0 wt .-%, each based on the total weight of Preparation.
Die nachfolgenden Beispiele sollen die vorliegende Erfindung verdeutlichen, ohne sie einzuschränken. Alle Mengenangaben, Anteile und Prozentanteile sind, soweit nicht anders angegeben, auf das Gewicht und die Gesamtmenge bzw. auf das Gesamtgewicht der Zubereitungen bezogen.The following examples are intended to illustrate the present invention without limiting it. Unless indicated otherwise, all amounts, proportions and percentages are based on the weight and the total amount or on the total weight of the preparations.
Es ist bei all diesem im Einzelfalle möglich, daß die vorgenannten Konzentrationsangaben leicht über- oder unterschritten werden und dennoch erfindungsgemäße Zubereitungen erhalten werden. Dies kommt angesichts der breit streuenden Vielfalt an geeigneten Komponenten derartiger Zubereitungen für den Fachmann nicht unerwartet, so daß er weiß, daß bei solchen Über- oder Unterschreitungen der Boden der vorliegenden Erfindung nicht verlassen wird.It is possible in all cases in individual cases that the above-mentioned concentration data are slightly exceeded or fallen short of and yet preparations according to the invention are obtained. This is not unexpected by those skilled in the art given the wide variety of suitable components of such formulations, so that he knows that in such overrun or underrun the soil of the present invention is not left.
Die nachfolgenden Beispiele sollen die vorliegende Erfindung verdeutlichen, ohne sie einzuschränken. Die Zahlenwerte in den Beispielen bedeuten Gewichtsprozente, bezogen auf das Gesamtgewicht der jeweiligen Zubereitungen.
Zur Bestimmung der lodzahl wird die Mehtode "lodzahl nach Wijs" (Cyclohexan / Eisessig Methode) herangezogen.The following examples are intended to illustrate the present invention without limiting it. The numerical values in the examples are percentages by weight, based on the total weight of the respective preparations.
To determine the iodine number, the method "iodine number according to Wijs" (cyclohexane / glacial acetic acid method) is used.
- Polyacrylat:
- Carbopol ETD 2020, Noveon
- Acrylates Copolymer:
- Carbopol Aqua SF-1 Polymer, Noveon
- Natriumlaurethsulfat:
- Hier wurde Texapon N 70 von der Firma Cognis verwendet.
Gleiche Ergebnisse werden auch mit den Rohstoffen Genapol LRO Paste von Clariant und Emal 270 D/B von Kao erzielt. - Cocamidopropylbetain:
- Tego-Betain F 50, Goldschmidt
- Natrium Myristylethsulfat:
- Texapon K 14 Spezial 70%, Cognis
- Alkylpolyglucosid:
- Hier kam Plantacare 2000 UP der Firma Cognis zum Einsatz. Ähnliche Ergebnisse werden auch mit Plantacare 1200 UP ebenfalls von Cognis erreicht.
- Natriumcocoylglutamat:
- Plantapon ACG-35, Cognis
- Natrium Cocoamphoacetat:
- Rewoteric AM C, Goldschmidt Rewo
- PEG-7 Glyceryl Cocoate
- Tegosoft GC von Goldschmidt kommt hier zum Einsatz. Auch Cetiol HE von Cognis und Glycerox HE B von Croda können eingesetzt werden.
PEG-200 hydriertes Glycerylpalmitat: Rewoderm LI 520-70, Goldschmidt Rewo
PEG-90 Glyceryl Isostearat: Oxetal VD 92, Zschimmer&Schwarz
- polyacrylate:
- Carbopol ETD 2020, Noveon
- Acrylates copolymer:
- Carbopol Aqua SF-1 polymer, Noveon
- Sodium Laureth Sulfate:
- Here, Texapon N 70 was used by Cognis.
The same results are achieved with the raw materials Genapol LRO Paste from Clariant and Emal 270 D / B from Kao. - cocamidopropyl:
- Tego-Betain F 50, Goldschmidt
- Sodium myristylethsulfate:
- Texapon K 14 Special 70%, Cognis
- Alkylpolyglucosid:
- Plantacare 2000 UP from Cognis was used here. Similar results are also achieved with Plantacare 1200 UP also from Cognis.
- sodium cocoyl:
- Plantapon ACG-35, Cognis
- Sodium cocoamphoacetate:
- Rewoteric AM C, Goldschmidt Rewo
- PEG-7 glyceryl cocoate
- Tegosoft GC from Goldschmidt is used here. Cetiol HE from Cognis and Glycerox HE B from Croda can also be used.
PEG-200 hydrogenated glyceryl palmitate: Rewoderm LI 520-70, Goldschmidt Rewo
PEG-90 Glyceryl Isostearate: Oxetal VD 92, Zschimmer & Schwarz
Die in der Rezeptur angegebenen Gehalte sind die Aktivgehalte der jeweiligen Rohstoffe. The contents given in the recipe are the active contents of the respective raw materials .
Die Grundseifennudeln werden mit dem Farbslurry und den übrigen Komponenten in einen üblichen Seifenmischer (Schneckenmischer mit Lochsieb) dosiert, durch mehrmaliges Vermischen homogenisiert, über eine Strangpresse ausgetragen, geschnitten und in üblicher Weise zu Stücken verarbeitet.The ground soap noodles are dosed with the color slurry and the other components in a conventional soap mixer (screw mixer with perforated screen), homogenized by repeated mixing, discharged via an extruder, cut and processed in the usual way to pieces.
Claims (14)
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DE102005014417A DE102005014417A1 (en) | 2005-03-24 | 2005-03-24 | Oxidation-protected cosmetic preparation with rice germ oil |
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EP06003763A Withdrawn EP1704898A1 (en) | 2005-03-24 | 2006-02-24 | Oxidation protection of a cosmetic composition with rice germ oil |
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Cited By (6)
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WO2007006402A1 (en) * | 2005-07-12 | 2007-01-18 | Beiersdorf Ag | Especially mild shower formulation |
DE102008030139A1 (en) * | 2008-06-27 | 2009-12-31 | Beiersdorf Ag | Hair conditioner with silicone emulsion |
DE102008063843A1 (en) * | 2008-12-19 | 2010-06-24 | Beiersdorf Ag | Stabilization of hydrolyzed milk protein by citrus oils |
CN102058606A (en) * | 2011-01-11 | 2011-05-18 | 北京世纪博康医药科技有限公司 | Oryzanol medicinal composition |
CN103536461A (en) * | 2013-10-17 | 2014-01-29 | 苏州威尔德工贸有限公司 | Grape seed oil skin-tendering cream and preparation method thereof |
WO2015024868A1 (en) * | 2013-08-22 | 2015-02-26 | Beiersdorf Ag | Sterol ester in deodorant- and/or antiperspirant preparations |
Families Citing this family (1)
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DE102007022693A1 (en) * | 2007-05-11 | 2009-01-15 | Evonik Stockhausen Gmbh | Skin and hand cleaners with hydrophilic emollients |
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Cited By (7)
Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
---|---|---|---|---|
WO2007006402A1 (en) * | 2005-07-12 | 2007-01-18 | Beiersdorf Ag | Especially mild shower formulation |
DE102008030139A1 (en) * | 2008-06-27 | 2009-12-31 | Beiersdorf Ag | Hair conditioner with silicone emulsion |
DE102008063843A1 (en) * | 2008-12-19 | 2010-06-24 | Beiersdorf Ag | Stabilization of hydrolyzed milk protein by citrus oils |
CN102058606A (en) * | 2011-01-11 | 2011-05-18 | 北京世纪博康医药科技有限公司 | Oryzanol medicinal composition |
WO2015024868A1 (en) * | 2013-08-22 | 2015-02-26 | Beiersdorf Ag | Sterol ester in deodorant- and/or antiperspirant preparations |
CN103536461A (en) * | 2013-10-17 | 2014-01-29 | 苏州威尔德工贸有限公司 | Grape seed oil skin-tendering cream and preparation method thereof |
CN103536461B (en) * | 2013-10-17 | 2016-06-22 | 青岛正沐生物科技有限公司 | A kind of Oleum Vitis viniferae skin care cream and preparation method thereof |
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