WO2014086545A2

WO2014086545A2 - Care-imparting cosmetic

Info

Publication number: WO2014086545A2
Application number: PCT/EP2013/073275
Authority: WO
Inventors: Martina Kampmann; Barbara Heide
Original assignee: Henkel Ag & Co. Kgaa
Priority date: 2012-12-05
Filing date: 2013-11-07
Publication date: 2014-06-12
Also published as: WO2014086545A3; DE102012222326A1

Abstract

Use of cosmetic compositions having a viscosity (Brookfield DV‑II viscometer, 20°C, Helipath; T-bar spindle T-C; 20 rpm) of more than 10 000 mPas, comprising a) at least one fatty substance and/or b) at least one humectant, and c) at least one nonionic surfactant from the group of the polyglyceryl esters, as shaving assistants, and shaving techniques using these assistants, and processes for preparing them.

Description

"Nourishing Cosmetic"

The application of the invention relates to the use of surfactant cosmetics as shaving aids.

For the shave, especially the shaving of the whisker, the consumer has manual as well as machine shavers available. With manual shaving with a razor, razor or a system razor, a range of cosmetic products can be used to prepare the hair for shaving, to improve the shaving result and for skin care in addition to water. To soften the whiskers and to better slide the blade on the skin traditionally shaving soap is used, which is foamed with a shaving brush in a special bowl and applied to the hair.

Prefabricated foams or shaving gels, which need not be specially foamed before shaving, offer increased shaving comfort. In particular, sensitive skin loses moisture with daily use of these aqueous-surfactant preparations.

An alternative to the aforementioned aqueous-surfactant preparations form the shaving oils. These oils improve the sliding behavior of the manual shaver on the skin and thus enable a gentle shave. In addition, the oils contained in the shaving oils maintain the skin stressed by the shave, but this care is necessarily associated with a greasy feel on the skin.

Against this background, there continues to be a need for shaving aids that enable a gentle manual shave and maintain the skin stressed by the shave, without causing a greasy skin feeling.

To solve this problem, a viscous cosmetic based on a fatty substance and a humectant in combination with a specific nonionic surfactant from the group of polyglyceryl esters is suitable.

A first subject of the present application is the use of a cosmetic agent with a viscosity (Brookfield DV-II viscometer, 20 ° C, Helipath, T-bar spindle T-C, 20UPM) above 10000 mPas, comprising,

a) at least one fatty substance and / or

b at least one humectant c) at least one nonionic surfactant from the group of polyglyceryl esters, as shaving aids.

The advantageous properties of the cosmetic agents described in more detail below are particularly evident when shaving with a wet shaver. The group of "wet razors" or "manual razors" in the context of this application in particular razor, razor and system razor.

In the context of this application, the term "shaving" refers to the trimming of the hair to just above the uppermost layer of the skin, whereby a blade is used for shaving.The hair is preferably no longer felt after shaving, the hair is shortened during shaving and not removed ,

The cosmetics according to the invention have a viscosity Haake rotational viscometer RV 12, 20 ° C, measuring device MV; Spindle MV II; 8UPM) above 10000 mPas. This viscosity range not only simplifies the application of the cosmetic product but also improves the sliding performance of commercial manual razors. In addition, the higher viscosity facilitates the transfer of cosmetic agent into an emulsion by mixing with water in the course of shaving.

In view of the aforementioned application properties, viscosities in the range of 100,000 to 300,000 have proved to be particularly advantageous. A preferably used cosmetic agent is therefore characterized in that the cosmetic agent has a viscosity (Brookfield DV-II viscometer, 20 ° C, Helipath, T-bar spindle TC; 20UPM) of 10,000 to 800,000 mPas, preferably 50,000 to 600,000 mPas and in particular from 100,000 to 500,000 mPas.

A first essential ingredient of cosmetic agents according to the invention is the fatty substance a). This fat promotes not only the similarity of the manual shaver but also cares for the skin. Preferred fatty substances a) are liquid (20 ° C.) and have a melting point below 15 ° C., preferably below 10 ° C. The proportion by weight of the fatty substance a) in the total weight of the cosmetic agent used according to the invention is preferably 40 to 98% by weight, preferably 50 to 95% by weight and in particular 60 to 90% by weight.

Preferred fatty substances a) are selected from the group of mineral, natural and synthetic oils, preferably from the group of mineral oils. As natural (vegetable) oils triglycerides and mixtures of triglycerides can be used. Preferred natural oils are coconut oil, (sweet) almond oil, walnut oil, peach kernel oil, apricot kernel oil, avocado oil, tea tree oil, soybean oil, sesame oil, sunflower oil, tsubaki oil, evening primrose oil, rice bran oil, palm kernel oil, mangokernol, meadowfoam herb oil, safflower oil, macadamia nut oil, grapeseed oil, Amaranth seed oil, argan oil, bamboo oil, olive oil, wheat germ oil, pumpkin seed oil, mallow oil, hazelnut oil, safflower oil, canola oil, sasanqua oil, jojoba oil, rambutan oil, cocoa butter and shea butter.

Suitable synthetic oils are silicone compounds. Suitable silicones may be selected from:

(i) polyalkyl siloxanes, polyaryl siloxanes, polyalkylaryl siloxanes which are volatile or nonvolatile, straight chain, branched or cyclic, crosslinked or uncrosslinked;

(ii) Polysiloxanes containing in their general structure one or more organofunctional groups selected from:

a) substituted or unsubstituted aminated groups;

b) (per) fluorinated groups;

c) thiol groups;

d) carboxylate groups;

e) hydroxylated groups;

f) alkoxylated groups;

g) acyloxyalkyl groups;

h) amphoteric groups;

i) bisulfite groups;

j) hydroxyacylamino groups;

k) carboxy groups;

I) sulfonic acid groups; and

m) sulphate or thiosulphate groups;

(iii) linear polysiloxane (A) - polyoxyalkylene (B) - block copolymers of the type (AB) _n with n>3;

(iv) grafted silicone polymers having a non-silicone organic backbone consisting of an organic backbone formed from organic monomers containing no silicone grafted with at least one polysiloxane macromer in the chain and optionally at least one chain end;

(v) grafted polysiloxane backbone silicone polymers grafted onto non-silicone organic monomers having a polysiloxane backbone at least one organic macromer not containing silicone has been grafted in the chain and optionally at least at one of its ends;

(vi) or mixtures thereof.

As mineral oils are used in particular mineral oils, paraffin and Isoparaffinöle and synthetic hydrocarbons. Particular preference is given to paraffins, in particular liquid paraffins, preferably paraffins having the INCI name Paraffinum Liquidum.

As a second essential ingredient, the compositions of the invention contain a humectant b). This humectant improves as well as the fat a) the equality of the manual shaver and the care of the skin during shaving. The proportion by weight of the lubricant b) in the total weight of the cosmetic agent used according to the invention is preferably from 10 to 70% by weight, preferably from 20 to 60% by weight and in particular from 25 to 50% by weight.

As for the product properties particularly advantageous, the use of a humectant from the group glycerol and propylene glycol has been found. Uses preferred according to the invention are characterized in that the cosmetic agent contains a humectant b) from the group of glycerol and propylene glycol, preferably glycerol.

Characteristic of the agents used according to the invention is the use of nonionic surfactants c) from the group of polyglycerol esters as the third essential constituent. The proportion by weight of the nonionic surfactant c) in the total weight of the cosmetic agent used according to the invention is preferably from 0.1 to 10% by weight, preferably from 1.0 to 8.0% by weight and in particular from 2.0 to 6.0% by weight. %.

Preferred nonionic surfactants c) from the group of polyglyceryl esters bear the INCI designations Polyglyceryl-2 Caprate, Polyglyceryl-2 Dipolyhydroxystearate, Polyglyceryl-2 Laurate, Polyglyceryl-2 Polyhydroxystearate, Polyglyceryl-3 Caprylate, Polyglyceryl-3 Diisostearate, Polyglyceryl-3 Laurate, Polyglyceryl -3 Oleate, Polyglyceryl-3 Palmitate, Polyglyceryl-3 Ricinoleate, Polyglyceryl-3 Stearate, Polyglyceryl-4 Caprate, Polyglyceryl-5 Laurate, Polyglyceryl

5 oleates, polyglyceryl-5 dioleates, polyglyceryl-6-caprylates, polyglyceryl-6 dicaprate, polyglyceryl

6 oleates, polyglyceryl-6 stearates, polyglyceryl-10 laurates and polyglyceryl-10 diisostearates. Particular preference is given to polyglyceryl-10-laurates, polyglyceryl-6-caprylates, polyglyceryl-5-laurates and polyglyceryl-5-oleates, in particular polyglyceryl-10-laurate. In addition to the ingredients described above, the compositions of the invention may contain other active ingredients and adjuvants. The group of these active ingredients and adjuvants include, for example, the ester oils, the vitamins and the plant extracts.

Under Esterölen are understood to be esters of C ₆ - C ₃₀ - fatty acids, especially C ₅ - C ₈ - fatty acids with C ₂ - C ₃₀ - fatty alcohols, in particular C ₁₀ - C ₂₂ - fatty alcohols. Examples of fatty acid components used in the esters are caproic acid, caprylic acid, 2-ethylhexanoic acid, capric acid, lauric acid, isotridecanoic acid, myristic acid, palmitic acid, palmitoleic acid, stearic acid, isostearic acid, oleic acid, elaidic acid, petroselinic acid, linoleic acid, linolenic acid, elaeostearic acid, arachidic acid, gadoleic acid, behenic acid and Erucic acid and its technical mixtures. Examples of the fatty alcohol components in the ester oils are isopropyl alcohol, caproic alcohol, capryl alcohol, 2-ethylhexyl alcohol, capric alcohol, lauryl alcohol, isotridecyl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, palmoleyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, elaidyl alcohol, petroselinyl alcohol, linolyl alcohol, linolenyl alcohol, elaeostearyl alcohol, arachyl alcohol, gadoleyl alcohol, Behenyl alcohol, erucyl alcohol and brassidyl alcohol and their technical mixtures. Particularly preferred are isopropyl myristate (IPM Rilanit ^®), isononanoic acid C16-18 alkyl ester (Cetiol ^® SN), 2-ethylhexyl palmitate (Cegesoft ^® 24) stearic acid 2-ethylhexyl ester (Cetiol ^® 868), cetyl oleate, cetyl palmitates, glycerol tricaprylate, Kokosfettalkohol- caprinatV caprylate (Cetiol ^® LC), n-butyl stearate, oleyl erucate (Cetiol ^® J 600), isopropyl palmitate (IPP Rilanit ^®), oleyl Oleate (Cetiol ^®), hexyl laurate (Cetiol ^® A), di-n-butyl ( Cetiol ^® B), myristyl myristate (Cetiol ^® MM), Cetearyl Isononanoate (Cetiol ^® SN), decyl oleate (Cetiol ^® V). A particularly preferred ester oil is the isopropyl palmitate. The proportion by weight of the ester oil in the total weight of the cosmetic agent is preferably 0.1 to 10 wt .-%, preferably 0.2 to 6.0 wt .-% and in particular 0.5 to 4.0 wt .-%.

Vitamins, vitamin derivatives and / or vitamin precursors are preferably included in the cosmetic agent in an amount of from 0.001 to 10% by weight, more preferably from 0.005 to 7.5% by weight and especially from 0.01 to 5% by weight , Suitable vitamins are preferably the following vitamins, provitamins and vitamin precursors and their derivatives: vitamin A, vitamin B, including vitamin B (thiamine), vitamin B ₂ (riboflavin) and vitamin B ₃ (nicotinic acid and nicotinamide) and vitamin B ₅ (pantothenic acid and panthenol) and vitamin B ₆ (pyridoxine and pyridoxamine and pyridoxal), vitamin C (ascorbic acid), vitamin E (tocopherols, especially α-tocopherol), vitamin F, vitamin H (biotin). Preferably, the use of vitamins, provitamins and vitamin precursors from groups A, B, E and H. Particularly preferred are nicotinamide, biotin, pantolactone and / or panthenol. Plant extracts and / or vegetable milk are preferably present in the cosmetic agent in an amount of from 0.01 to 10% by weight, more preferably from 0.025 to 7.5% by weight, particularly preferably from 0.05 to 5% by weight. and in particular from 0.075 to 3 wt .-%. Suitable plant extracts and / or vegetable extracts are extracts which can be prepared from all parts of a plant. Particularly suitable are the extracts of green tea, oak bark, stinging nettle, witch hazel, hops, chamomile, burdock root, horsetail, linden, lychee, almond, aloe vera, spruce needle, horse chestnut, sandalwood, juniper, coconut, mango, apricot, lime , Wheat, Kiwi, Melon, Orange, Grapefruit, Sage, Rosemary, Birch, Mallow, Meadowfoam, Quendel, Yarrow, Thyme, Melissa, Hominy, Coltsfoot, Marshmallow, Ginseng, Ginger root, Echinacea purpurea, Olea europea, Boerhavia diffusa roots, Foeniculum vulgaris and Apim graveolens. Particularly preferred for use in the detergents according to the invention are the extracts of green tea, stinging nettle, witch hazel, chamomile, aloe vera, ginseng, Echinacea purpurea, Olea europea and / or Boerhavia diffusa roots.

Other active ingredients, auxiliaries and additives which can be used in the composition according to the invention are, for example, perfumes or perfumes, UV filters, dyes for dyeing the agents, antioxidants or preservatives.

The composition of some preferably used cosmetic agents can be seen from the following tables (data in wt .-% based on the total weight of the cosmetic agent, unless otherwise stated).

Formula 1 Formula 2 Formula 3 Formula 4 Formula 5

Fatty substance a) 40 to 92 50 to 90 50 to 90 60 to 85 60 to 85 humectants b) 1, 9 to 59.9 4.0 to 49 4.0 to 49 9.0 to 39 8.0 to 38 Polyglyceryl ester 0 , 1 to 10 0, 1 to 10 1, 0 to 8,0 1, 0 to 8,0 2,0 to 6,0 Mise add 100 add 100 add 100 add 100 add 100

Formula 6 Formula 7 Formula 8 Formula 9 Formula 10

Paraffinum Liquidum 40 to 92 50 to 90 50 to 90 60 to 85 60 to 85

Humectants b) 1, 9 to 59.9 4.0 to 49 4.0 to 49 9.0 to 39 8.0 to 38

Polyglyceryl esters 0.1 to 10 0, 1 to 10 1, 0 to 8.0 1, 0 to 8.0 2.0 to 6.0

Mise add 100 add 100 add 100 add 100 add 100

Formula n Formula 12 Formula 13 Formula 14 Formula 15 Grease a) 40 to 92 50 to 90 50 to 90 60 to 85 60 to 85 Glycerol 1.9 to 59.9 4.0 to 49 4.0 to 49 9.0 to 39 8.0 to 38

Polyglyceryl-10 Laurate 0, 1 to 10 0.1 to 10 1, 0 to 8.0 1, 0 to 8.0 2.0 to 6.0 Mise add 100 add 100 add 100 add 100 add 100

Formula 16 Formula 17 Formula 18 Formula 19 Formula 20

Fatty substance a) 40 to 92 50 to 90 50 to 90 60 to 85 60 to 85 humectants b) 1, 9 to 59.9 4.0 to 49 4.0 to 49 9.0 to 39 8.0 to 38 polyglyceryl 5 Oleate 0.1 to 10 0, 1 to 10 1, 0 to 8.0 1, 0 to 8.0 2.0 to 6.0 Mise add 100 add 100 add 100 add 100 add 100

Formula 21 Formula 22 Formula 23 Formula 24 Formula 25

Paraffin Liquidum 40 to 92 50 to 90 50 to 90 60 to 85 60 to 85 Glycerol 1, 9 to 59.9 4.0 to 49 4.0 to 49 9.0 to 39 8.0 to 38

Polyglyceryl Ester 0.1 to 10 0, 1 to 10 1, 0 to 8.0 1, 0 to 8.0 2.0 to 6.0 Mise add 100 add 100 add 100 add 100 add 100

Formula 26 Formula 27 Formula 28 Formula 29 Formula 30

Fatty substance a) 40 to 92 50 to 90 50 to 90 60 to 85 60 to 85 glycerol 1, 9 to 59.9 4.0 to 49 4.0 to 49 9.0 to 39 8.0 to 38

Polyglyceryl-10 Laurate 0.1 to 10 0.1 to 10 1, 0 to 8.0 1, 0 to 8.0 2.0 to 6.0 Mise add 100 add 100 add 100 add 100 add 100

Formula 31 Formula 32 Formula 33 Formula 34 Formula 35

Formula 36 Formula 37 Formula 38 Formula 39 Formula 40

Polyglyceryl-5 Oleates 0.1 to 10 0, 1 to 10 1, 0 to 8.0 1, 0 to 8.0 2.0 to 6.0 Mise add 100 add 100 add 100 add 100 add 100

Formula 41 Formula 42 Formula 43 Formula 44 Formula 45

Paraffinum Liquidum 40 to 92 50 to 90 50 to 90 60 to 85 60 to 85 Glycerol 1.9 to 59.9 4.0 to 49 4.0 to 49 9.0 to 39 8.0 to 38

Polyglyceryl-5 Oleates 0.1 to 10 0.1 to 10 1.0 to 8.0 1.0 to 8.0 2.0 to 6.0 Mise add 100 add 100 add 100 add 100 add 100

Formula 46 Formula 47 Formula 48 Formula 49 Formula 50

Fatty substance a) 40 to 92 50 to 90 50 to 90 60 to 85 60 to 85

Humectants b) 1.8 to 59.8 4.0 to 49 3.0 to 48 8.0 to 38 6.0 to 36

Polyglyceryl esters 0.1 to 10 0.1 to 10 1.0 to 8.0 1.0 to 8.0 2.0 to 6.0

Ester oil 0.1 to 10 0.1 to 10 1.0 to 8.0 1.0 to 8.0 2.0 to 6.0

Mise add 100 add 100 add 100 add 100 add 100

Formula 51 Formula 52 Formula 53 Formula 54 Formula 55

Paraffinum Liquidum 40 to 92 50 to 90 50 to 90 60 to 85 60 to 85

Humectants b) 1.8 to 59.8 4.0 to 49 3.0 to 48 8.0 to 38 6.0 to 36

Polyglyceryl esters 0.1 to 10 0.1 to 10 1.0 to 8.0 1.0 to 8.0 2.0 to 6.0

Ester oil 0.1 to 10 0.1 to 10 1.0 to 8.0 1.0 to 8.0 2.0 to 6.0

Mise add 100 add 100 add 100 add 100 add 100

Formula 56 Formula 57 Formula 58 Formula 59 Formula 60

Fatty substance a) 40 to 92 50 to 90 50 to 90 60 to 85 60 to 85 glycerol 1.8 to 59.8 4.0 to 49 3.0 to 48 8.0 to 38 6.0 to 36

Polyglyceryl esters 0.1 to 10 0.1 to 10 1.0 to 8.0 1.0 to 8.0 2.0 to 6.0

Ester oil 0.1 to 10 0.1 to 10 1.0 to 8.0 1.0 to 8.0 2.0 to 6.0

Mise add 100 add 100 add 100 add 100 add 100

Formula 61 Formula 62 Formula 63 Formula 64 Formula 65

Polyglyceryl-10 Laurate 0.1 to 10 0.1 to 10 1.0 to 8.0 1.0 to 8.0 2.0 to 6.0

Ester oil 0.1 to 10 0.1 to 10 1.0 to 8.0 1.0 to 8.0 2.0 to 6.0

Mise add 100 add 100 add 100 add 100 add 100

Formula 66 Formula 67 Formula 68 Formula 69 Formula 70

Polyglyceryl-5 Oleates 0.1 to 10 0.1 to 10 1.0 to 8.0 1.0 to 8.0 2.0 to 6.0 Ester oil 0.1 to 10 0.1 to 10 1.0 to 8.0 1.0 to 8.0 2.0 to 6.0 Mise add 100 add 100 add 100 add 100 add 100

Formula 71 Formula 72 Formula 73 Formula 74 Formula 75

Fatty substance a) 40 to 92 50 to 90 50 to 90 60 to 85 60 to 85 humectant b) 1, 8 to 59.8 4.0 to 49 3.0 to 48 8.0 to 38 6.0 to 36 Polyglyceryl ester 0 , 1 to 10 0, 1 to 10 1, 0 to 8.0 1, 0 to 8.0 2.0 to 6.0 isopropyl palmitate 0.1 to 10 0, 1 to 10 1, 0 to 8.0 1, 0 to 8.0 2.0 to 6.0 Mise add 100 add 100 add 100 add 100 add 100

Formula 76 Formula 77 Formula 78 Formula 79 Formula 80

Paraffin Liquidum 40 to 92 50 to 90 50 to 90 60 to 85 60 to 85 Glycerol 1, 8 to 59.8 4.0 to 49 3.0 to 48 8.0 to 38 6.0 to 36

Polyglyceryl esters 0.1 to 10 0, 1 to 10 1, 0 to 8.0 1, 0 to 8.0 2.0 to 6.0

Ester oil 0, 1 to 10 0.1 to 10 1, 0 to 8.0 1, 0 to 8.0 2.0 to 6.0

Mise add 100 add 100 add 100 add 100 add 100

Formula 81 Formula 82 Formula 83 Formula 84 Formula 85

Fatty substance a) 40 to 92 50 to 90 50 to 90 60 to 85 60 to 85 Glycerol 1, 8 to 59.8 4.0 to 49 3.0 to 48 8.0 to 38 6.0 to 36

Polyglyceryl-10 Laurate 0, 1 to 10 0.1 to 10 1, 0 to 8.0 1, 0 to 8.0 2.0 to 6.0

Ester oil 0, 1 to 10 0.1 to 10 1, 0 to 8.0 1, 0 to 8.0 2.0 to 6.0

Mise add 100 add 100 add 100 add 100 add 100

Formula 86 Formula 87 Formula 88 Formula 89 Formula 90

Paraffin Liquidum 40 to 92 50 to 90 50 to 90 60 to 85 60 to 85 Humectants b) 1, 8 to 59.8 4.0 to 49 3.0 to 48 8.0 to 38 6.0 to 36 Polyglyceryl-10 Laurate 0, 1 to 10 0.1 to 10 1, 0 to 8.0 1, 0 to 8.0 2.0 to 6.0 Ester oil 0, 1 to 10 0.1 to 10 1, 0 to 8.0 1, 0 to 8,0 2,0 to 6,0 Mise add 100 add 100 add 100 add 100 add 100

Formula 91 Formula 92 Formula 93 Formula 94 Formula 95

Fatty substance a) 40 to 92 50 to 90 50 to 90 60 to 85 60 to 85 humectants b) 1, 8 to 59.8 4.0 to 49 3.0 to 48 8.0 to 38 6.0 to 36 polyglyceryl 10 laurate 0.1 to 10 0.1 to 10 1, 0 to 8.0 1, 0 to 8.0 2.0 to 6.0 isopropyl palmitate 0.1 to 10 0, 1 to 10 1, 0 to 8, 0 1, 0 to 8,0 2,0 to 6,0 Mise add 100 add 100 add 100 add 100 add 100

Formula 96 Formula 07 Formula 98 Formula 99 Formula 100

Polyglyceryl-10 Laurate 0, 1 to 10 0.1 to 10 1, 0 to 8.0 1, 0 to 8.0 2.0 to 6.0

Ester oil 0, 1 to 10 0.1 to 10 1, 0 to 8.0 1, 0 to 8.0 2.0 to 6.0

Mise add 100 add 100 add 100 add 100 add 100

Formula 101 Formula 102 Formula 103 Formula 104 Formula 105 Fatty substance a) 40 to 92 50 to 90 50 to 90 60 to 85 60 to 85 glycerol 1.8 to 59.8 4.0 to 49 3.0 to 48 8.0 to 38 6.0 to 36

Polyglyceryl-10 Laurate 0.1 to 10 0.1 to 10 1.0 to 8.0 1.0 to 8.0 2.0 to 6.0

Isopropyl palmitate 0.1 to 10 0.1 to 10 1.0 to 8.0 1.0 to 8.0 2.0 to 6.0

Mise add 100 add 100 add 100 add 100 add 100

Formula 106 Formula 107 Formula 108 Formula 109 Formula 110

Paraffin Liquidum 40 to 92 50 to 90 50 to 90 60 to 85 60 to 85 Glycerol 1.8 to 59.8 4.0 to 49 3.0 to 48 8.0 to 38 6.0 to 36

Polyglyceryl-10 Laurate 0.1 to 10 0.1 to 10 1.0 to 8.0 1.0 to 8.0 2.0 to 6.0

Isopropyl palmitate 0.1 to 10 0.1 to 10 1.0 to 8.0 1.0 to 8.0 2.0 to 6.0

Mise add 100 add 100 add 100 add 100 add 100

Formula 111 Formula 112 Formula 113 Formula 114 Formula 115

Fatty substance a) 40 to 92 50 to 90 50 to 90 60 to 85 60 to 85

Humectants b) 1.8 to 59.8 4.0 to 49 3.0 to 48 8.0 to 38 6.0 to 36

Polyglyceryl esters 0.1 to 10 0.1 to 10 1.0 to 8.0 1.0 to 8.0 2.0 to 6.0

Ester oil 0.1 to 10 0.1 to 10 1.0 to 8.0 1.0 to 8.0 2.0 to 6.0

Mise add 100 add 100 add 100 add 100 add 100

Formula 116 Formula 117 Formula 118 Formula 119 Formula 120

Paraffinum Liquidum 40 to 92 50 to 90 50 to 90 60 to 85 60 to 85

Humectants b) 1.8 to 59.8 4.0 to 49 3.0 to 48 8.0 to 38 6.0 to 36

Polyglyceryl esters 0.1 to 10 0.1 to 10 1.0 to 8.0 1.0 to 8.0 2.0 to 6.0

Ester oil 0.1 to 10 0.1 to 10 1.0 to 8.0 1.0 to 8.0 2.0 to 6.0

Mise add 100 add 100 add 100 add 100 add 100

Formula 121 Formula 122 Formula 123 Formula 124 Formula 125

Polyglyceryl esters 0.1 to 10 0.1 to 10 1.0 to 8.0 1.0 to 8.0 2.0 to 6.0

Ester oil 0.1 to 10 0.1 to 10 1.0 to 8.0 1.0 to 8.0 2.0 to 6.0

Mise add 100 add 100 add 100 add 100 add 100

Formula 126 Formula 127 Formula 128 Formula 129 Formula 130

Fatty substance a) 40 to 92 50 to 90 50 to 90 60 to 85 60 to 85 glycerol 1.8 to 59.8 4.0 to 49 3.0 to 48 8.0 to 38 6.0 to 36 Polyglyceryl-5 Oleates 0.1 to 10 0.1 to 10 1.0 to 8.0 1.0 to 8.0 2.0 to 6.0

Ester oil 0.1 to 10 0.1 to 10 1.0 to 8.0 1.0 to 8.0 2.0 to 6.0

Mise add 100 add 100 add 100 add 100 add 100

Formula 131 Formula 132 Formula 133 Formula 134 Formula 135

Polyglyceryl-5 Oleates 0.1 to 10 0.1 to 10 1.0 to 8.0 1.0 to 8.0 2.0 to 6.0

Ester oil 0.1 to 10 0.1 to 10 1.0 to 8.0 1.0 to 8.0 2.0 to 6.0

Mise add 100 add 100 add 100 add 100 add 100

Formula 136 Formula 137 Formula 138 Formula 139 Formula 140

Fatty substance a) 40 to 92 50 to 90 50 to 90 60 to 85 60 to 85 humectants b) 1.8 to 59.8 4.0 to 49 3.0 to 48 8.0 to 38 6.0 to 36 Polyglyceryl ester 0 , 1 to 10 0.1 to 10 1.0 to 8.0 1.0 to 8.0 2.0 to 6.0 isopropyl palmitate 0.1 to 10 0.1 to 10 1.0 to 8.0 1, 0 to 8.0 2.0 to 6.0 Mise add 100 add 100 add 100 add 100 add 100

Formula 141 Formula 142 Formula 143 Formula 144 Formula 145

Polyglyceryl esters 0.1 to 10 0.1 to 10 1.0 to 8.0 1.0 to 8.0 2.0 to 6.0

Ester oil 0.1 to 10 0.1 to 10 1.0 to 8.0 1.0 to 8.0 2.0 to 6.0

Mise add 100 add 100 add 100 add 100 add 100

Formula 146 Formula 147 Formula 148 Formula 149 Formula 150

Polyglyceryl-5 Oleates 0.1 to 10 0.1 to 10 1.0 to 8.0 1.0 to 8.0 2.0 to 6.0

Ester oil 0.1 to 10 0.1 to 10 1.0 to 8.0 1.0 to 8.0 2.0 to 6.0

Mise add 100 add 100 add 100 add 100 add 100

Formula 151 Formula 152 Formula 153 Formula 154 Formula 155

Paraffin Liquidum 40 to 92 50 to 90 50 to 90 60 to 85 60 to 85 Humectants b) 1.8 to 59.8 4.0 to 49 3.0 to 48 8.0 to 38 6.0 to 36 Polyglyceryl-5 Oleates 0.1 to 10 0.1 to 10 1.0 to 8.0 1.0 to 8.0 2.0 to 6.0 Ester oil 0.1 to 10 0.1 to 10 1.0 to 8.0 1.0 to 8.0 2.0 to 6.0 Mise add 100 add 100 add 100 add 100 add 100

Formula 156 Formula 157 Formula 158 Formula 159 Formula 160

Fatty substance a) 40 to 92 50 to 90 50 to 90 60 to 85 60 to 85 humectants b) 1, 8 to 59.8 4.0 to 49 3.0 to 48 8.0 to 38 6.0 to 36 polyglyceryl 5 oleate 0, 1 to 10 0, 1 to 10 1, 0 to 8.0 1, 0 to 8.0 2.0 to 6.0 isopropyl palmitate 0, 1 to 10 0, 1 to 10 1, 0 to 8, 0 1, 0 to 8,0 2,0 to 6,0 Mise add 100 add 100 add 100 add 100 add 100

Formula 161 Formula 162 Formula 163 Formula 164 Formula 165

Polyglyceryl-5 oleates 0, 1 to 10 0, 1 to 10 1, 0 to 8.0 1, 0 to 8.0 2.0 to 6.0

Ester oil 0, 1 to 10 0, 1 to 10 1, 0 to 8.0 1, 0 to 8.0 2.0 to 6.0

Mise add 100 add 100 add 100 add 100 add 100

Formula 166 Formula 167 Formula 168 Formula 169 Formula 170

Polyglyceryl-5 oleates 0.1 to 10 0.1 to 10 1, 0 to 8.0 1, 0 to 8.0 2.0 to 6.0

Isopropyl palmitate 0.1 to 10 0.1 to 10 1, 0 to 8.0 1, 0 to 8.0 2.0 to 6.0

Mise add 100 add 100 add 100 add 100 add 100

Formula 171 Formula 172 Formula 173 Formula 174 Formula 175

Polyglyceryl-5 oleates 0, 1 to 10 0, 1 to 10 1, 0 to 8.0 1, 0 to 8.0 2.0 to 6.0

Isopropyl palmitate 0, 1 to 10 0, 1 to 10 1, 0 to 8.0 1, 0 to 8.0 2.0 to 6.0

Mise add 100 add 100 add 100 add 100 add 100

As stated at the outset, the agents used according to the invention are u.a. through their above-average skin care properties. A further preferred subject matter of the present application is therefore the use of a cosmetic agent having a viscosity (Brookfield DV-II viscometer, 20 ° C., Helipath, T-bar spindle T-C, 20UPM) above 10000 mPas, comprising,

a) at least one fatty substance and / or

b at least one humectant c) at least one nonionic surfactant from the group of polyglyceryl esters, as a nourishing shaving aid, in particular for increasing the skin moisture.

In addition to their nourishing properties, the compositions according to the invention enable a gentle shave, in particular due to an improvement in the sliding behavior of the wet shaver used during shaving. Preference is therefore further given to the use of a cosmetic agent having a viscosity (Brookfield DV-II viscometer, 20 ° C., Helipath, T-bar spindle T-C, 20 μM) above 10000 mPas, containing

a) at least one fatty substance and / or

b at least one humectant

c) at least one nonionic surfactant from the group of polyglyceryl esters,

as a gentle shaving aid, preferably as a gentle shaving aid during shaving with a wet shaver, in particular for improving the sliding behavior of a wet shaver, preferably for improving the sliding behavior of the shaving head of a wet shaver.

The compositions used according to the invention are pre-emulsion which can be converted by mixing with water into an emulsion, preferably into an O / W emulsion. The resulting emulsion is characterized by good skin-care properties. In the course of the shaving process, the preemulsion can be converted into the emulsion before, during or after shaving. However, it is preferred to transfer the cosmetic agent remaining on the skin after shaving by mixing with water in an emulsion, preferably an O / W emulsion.

A second subject of this application is therefore a shaving method comprising the following steps:

i) providing a cosmetic agent having a viscosity (Brookfield DV-II viscometer, 20 ° C, Helipath, T-bar spindle T-C, 20UPM) above 10000 mPas, containing,

a) at least one fatty substance and / or

b at least one humectant

c) at least one nonionic surfactant from the group of the polyglyceryl esters ii) application of the cosmetic agent from step i) to the hair, preferably the whisker and the skin surrounding this hair;

iii) shaving the hair treated with the cosmetic product, preferably the whisker, with a wet shaver; iv) applying water to the skin-remaining cosmetic products and mixing water and cosmetic on the skin to form an O / W emulsion.

A further subject of the present application is a process for the preparation of a cosmetic cleaning agent having a viscosity (Brookfield DV-II viscometer, 20 ° C, Helipath, T-Bar spindle T-C, 20UPM) above 10000 mPas, which comprises the following steps:

i) dissolving a nonionic surfactant c) from the group of polyglyceryl esters in a humectant b),

ii) introduction of a fatty substance a) into the solution obtained in step i) with stirring, characterized in that the solution obtained in step i) before the introduction of the fatty substance a) has a temperature above 50 ° C, preferably above 60 ° C and in particular above 70 ° C has. In preferred process variants, the humectant b) is heated to temperatures between 40 ° C and 90 ° C, preferably to temperatures between 60 ° C and 90 ° C and in particular to temperatures between 70 ° C and 90 ° C before dissolving the nonionic surfactant ,

Examples

The following shaving oils according to the invention were provided.

The shaving oils were used in shaving procedures and are characterized by good use and care properties.

Claims

claims

1. Use of a cosmetic agent having a viscosity (Brookfield DV-II viscometer, 20 ° C, Helipath, T-bar spindle T-C, 20UPM) above 10000 mPas, comprising,

a) at least one fatty substance and / or

b at least one humectant

c) at least one nonionic surfactant from the group of polyglyceryl esters,

as a shaving aid.

2. Use according to claim 1, characterized in that the cosmetic agent has a viscosity (Brookfield DV-II viscometer, 20 ° C, Helipath; T-bar spindle TC; 20UPM) from 10,000 to 800,000 mPas, preferably from 50,000 to 600,000 mPas and in particular from 100,000 to 500,000 mPas.

3. Use according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the cosmetic agent contains a fatty substance a) from the group of mineral, natural and synthetic oils, preferably from the group of mineral oils.

4. Use according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the cosmetic agent, based on its total weight, 40 to 98 wt .-%, preferably 50 to 95 wt .-% and in particular 60 to 90 wt .-% of the fatty substance a ) contains.

5. Use according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the cosmetic agent contains a humectant b) from the group of glycerol and propylene glycol, preferably glycerol.

6. Use according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the cosmetic agent, based on its total weight, 10 to 70 wt .-%, preferably 20 to 60 wt .-% and in particular 25 to 50 wt .-% of the humectant b ) contains.

7. Use according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the cosmetic agent is a nonionic surfactant c) from the group of polyglyceryl esters with the INCI names polyglyceryl-10 laurates, polyglyceryl-6 caprylates, polyglyceryl-5 laurates and polyglyceryl-5 oleates, preferably contains polyglyceryl-10 laurate.

8. Use according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the cosmetic agent, based on its total weight, 0.1 to 10 wt .-%, preferably 1, 0 to 8.0 wt .-% and in particular 2.0 to Contains 6.0 wt .-% of nonionic surfactant c).

9. shaving method comprising the following steps:

a) at least one fatty substance and / or

b at least one humectant

iii) shaving the hair treated with the cosmetic product, preferably the whisker, with a wet shaver;

iv) applying water to the cosmetic remaining on the skin and triturating water and mixing water and cosmetic on the skin to form an O / W emulsion.

10. A process for the preparation of a cosmetic detergent having a viscosity (Brookfield DV-II viscometer, 20 ° C, Helipath; T-bar spindle T-C; 20UPM) above 10000 mPas, comprising the following steps:

i) dissolving a nonionic surfactant c) from the group of the polyglyceryl esters in a humectant b),

ii) introduction of a fatty substance a) into the solution obtained in step i) with stirring, characterized in that the solution obtained in step i) before the introduction of the fatty substance a) has a temperature above 50 ° C, preferably above 60 ° C and in particular above 70 ° C has.