WO2013160440A2 - Procédé pour le traitement des cheveux avec une composition cosmétique sous pression contenant un silane à chaîne grasse - Google Patents

Procédé pour le traitement des cheveux avec une composition cosmétique sous pression contenant un silane à chaîne grasse Download PDF

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WO2013160440A2
WO2013160440A2 PCT/EP2013/058711 EP2013058711W WO2013160440A2 WO 2013160440 A2 WO2013160440 A2 WO 2013160440A2 EP 2013058711 W EP2013058711 W EP 2013058711W WO 2013160440 A2 WO2013160440 A2 WO 2013160440A2
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copolymers
chosen
process according
composition
weight
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PCT/EP2013/058711
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WO2013160440A3 (fr
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Laëtitia FEUILLETTE
Grégory Plos
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L'oreal
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    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/02—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by special physical form
    • A61K8/04—Dispersions; Emulsions
    • A61K8/046—Aerosols; Foams
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/58—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing atoms other than carbon, hydrogen, halogen, oxygen, nitrogen, sulfur or phosphorus
    • A61K8/585—Organosilicon compounds
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q5/00—Preparations for care of the hair
    • A61Q5/06—Preparations for styling the hair, e.g. by temporary shaping or colouring
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q5/00—Preparations for care of the hair
    • A61Q5/12—Preparations containing hair conditioners

Definitions

  • the present invention relates to a cosmetic process for treating hair with a cosmetic, in particular haircare, composition comprising one or more fatty-chain silanes and one or more propellants.
  • a subject of present invention is also the use of said composition for shaping and/or fixing keratin fibres, such as human keratin fibres and in particular the hair.
  • cosmetic haircare composition is intended to mean compositions for fixing and/or form retention of the hair, haircare compositions, compositions for conditioning the hair, such as compositions intended to make the hair soft, or else hair make-up compositions.
  • the composition When a cosmetic composition is applied to the hair for a particular treatment, the composition may result in the hair having a dry feel. This is the case, for example, with styling products and in particular lacquers.
  • Styling products are normally used to construct and structure the hairstyle and give it long-lasting shape retention. They are usually in the form of lotions, gels, foams, creams, sprays, etc.
  • the corresponding compositions generally comprise one or more fixing polymers, in a cosmetically acceptable medium. These polymers allow the formation of a coating film on the hair, thus providing form retention of the hairstyle.
  • the cosmetic agents are often fatty substances which give the hair a greasy feel and appearance.
  • the product transfers to the hands and can also produce a sensation of dirty hair.
  • Patent application EP 0 159 628 proposes compositions for reinforcing the elasticity of the hair, comprising an alkyltrialkoxysilane.
  • patent application EP 1 736 139 describes a hair treatment composition comprising an alkoxysilane, an organic acid and water, the pH of the composition being between 2 and 5.
  • patent application EP 0 877 027 discloses a composition comprising an organosilane and a particular polyol.
  • silanes Owing to their strong reactivity, silanes sometimes exhibit problems of nonuniform performance, which might be thought to be linked to distribution problems.
  • a particular fatty-chain silane in a pressurized composition makes it possible to give the hair an improved cosmetic feel, with good uniformity of the result over the entire head of hair.
  • a particular fatty-chain silane with at least one fixing polymer in a pressurized composition makes it possible to provide an improved cosmetic feel while at the same time providing strong fixing of the hair.
  • such a composition makes it possible, on the one hand, to confer good fixing on the head of hair and, on the other hand, to confer on the hair a natural soft feel, and a smooth feel after disentangling.
  • a subject of the present invention is thus a cosmetic process for treating hair comprising the application to the hair of a cosmetic composition comprising:
  • Ri represents a linear or branched alkyl or alkenyl group comprising from 7 to 18 carbon atoms
  • R 2 and R 3 which may be identical or different, represent a linear or branched alkyl group comprising from 1 to 6 carbon atoms,
  • x denotes an integer ranging from 0 to 2
  • the cosmetic composition may be obtained from one or more propellants and from one or more compounds of formula (I) and/or oligomers thereof.
  • fatty-chain silane(s) that may be used in the composition are those corresponding to formula (I) below:
  • ⁇ Ri represents a linear or branched alkyl or alkenyl group comprising from 7 to 18 carbon atoms
  • R 2 and R 3 which may be identical or different, represent a linear or branched alkyl group comprising from 1 to 6 carbon atoms,
  • ⁇ z denotes an integer ranging from 0 to 3
  • x denotes an integer ranging from 0 to 2
  • oligomer means the polymerization products of the compounds of formula (I) comprising from 2 to 10 silicon atoms.
  • R 3 represents an alkyl group comprising from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, better still a linear alkyl group comprising from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, and preferably methyl or ethyl groups.
  • R 2 represents an alkyl group comprising from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, better still a linear alkyl group comprising from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, and preferably the ethyl group.
  • Ri represents an alkyl group, more preferentially a linear alkyl group and even more preferentially an octyl group.
  • z ranges from 1 to 3.
  • z is equal to 3.
  • the composition comprises at least one alkoxysilane chosen from octyltriethoxysilane, dodecyltriethoxysilane, octadecyltriethoxysilane and hexadecyltriethoxysilane.
  • the composition comprises at least octyltriethoxysilane (OTES).
  • OTES octyltriethoxysilane
  • the silane(s) of formula (I) and/or oligomers thereof are present in the composition according to the invention in preferential proportions ranging from 0.1 % to 50% by weight, more preferentially from 0.5% to 20% by weight and better still from 1 % to 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • composition according to the invention may also comprise one or more fixing polymers.
  • the term "fixing polymer” means any polymer that is capable, by application to the hair, of giving a shape to the head of hair or of holding the hair in an already acquired form.
  • the anionic fixing polymers generally used are polymers comprising groups derived from carboxylic acid, sulfonic acid or phosphoric acid and have a number- average molecular weight of between approximately 500 and 5 000 000.
  • the carboxylic groups are provided by unsaturated monocarboxylic or dicarboxylic acid monomers such as those corresponding to the formula: ⁇ COOH
  • n is an integer from 0 to 10
  • A-i denotes a methylene group, optionally connected to the carbon atom of the unsaturated group or to the neighbouring methylene group when n is greater than 1 , via a heteroatom such as oxygen or sulfur
  • R 7 denotes a hydrogen atom, or a phenyl or benzyl group
  • R 8 denotes a hydrogen atom or a lower alkyl or carboxyl group
  • R 9 denotes a hydrogen atom, a lower alkyl group or a -CH 2 -COOH, phenyl or benzyl group.
  • a lower alkyl group preferably denotes a group having 1 to 4 carbon atoms and in particular methyl and ethyl groups.
  • anionic or amphoteric fixing polymers containing carboxylic groups that are preferred according to the invention are:
  • copolymers of acrylic or methacrylic acid with a monoethylenic monomer such as ethylene, styrene, vinyl esters, acrylic or methacrylic acid esters, optionally grafted onto a polyalkylene glycol such as polyethylene glycol and optionally crosslinked Such polymers are described in particular in French patent No.1 222 944 and German application No. 2 330 956, the copolymers of this type comprising an optionally N-alkylated and/or hydroxyalkylated acrylamide unit in their chain as described in particular in Luxembourg patent application Nos. 75370 and 75371 .
  • Crotonic acid copolymers such as those comprising vinyl acetate or propionate units in their chain and optionally other monomers such as allyl esters or methallyl esters, vinyl ether or vinyl ester of a linear or branched saturated carboxylic acid with a long hydrocarbon-based chain, such as those containing at least 5 carbon atoms, it being possible for these polymers optionally to be grafted or crosslinked, or alternatively another vinyl, allyl or methallyl ester monomer of an oc- or ⁇ -cyclic carboxylic acid.
  • Such polymers are described, inter alia, in French patent Nos.
  • Luviset ® CA 66 sold by the company BASF
  • Aristoflex ® A60 sold by the company Clarint (I NCI name VA / crotonates copolymer)
  • Mexomere ® PW or PAM sold by the company Chimex (INCI name VA / vinyl butyl benzoate / crotonates copolymer).
  • copolymers comprising (i) one or more maleic, fumaric or itaconic acids or anhydrides and (ii) at least one monomer chosen from vinyl esters, vinyl ethers, vinyl halides, phenylvinyl derivatives, acrylic acid and its esters, the anhydride functions of these copolymers optionally being monoesterified or monoamidated.
  • monomers chosen from vinyl esters, vinyl ethers, vinyl halides, phenylvinyl derivatives, acrylic acid and its esters, the anhydride functions of these copolymers optionally being monoesterified or monoamidated.
  • Gantrez ® AN or ES commercial products are in particular those sold under the names Gantrez ® AN or ES by the company ISP, such as Gantrez ® ES 225 (INCI name Ethyl ester of PVM / MA copolymer) or Gantrez ® ES 425L (INCI name Butyl ester of PVM / MA copolymer);
  • - copolymers comprising (i) one or more maleic, citraconic or itaconic anhydride units and (ii) one or more monomers chosen from allyl or methallyl esters optionally comprising one or more acrylamide, methacrylamide, a-olefin, acrylic or methacrylic ester, acrylic or methacrylic acid or vinylpyrrolidone groups in their chain,
  • Polyurethanes optionally comprising silicones, with carboxylate groups, such as Luviset Pur and Luviset Si Pur provided by the company BASF.
  • the fixing polymers comprising units derived from sulfonic acid can be chosen from:
  • A' homopolymers and copolymers comprising vinylsulfonic, styrenesulfonic, naphthalenesulfonic and acrylamidoalkylsulfonic units.
  • These polymers can be chosen in particular from:
  • polyvinylsulfonic acid salts having a molecular weight of approximately between 1000 and 100 000, and also the copolymers with an unsaturated comonomer such as acrylic or methacrylic acids and their esters, and also acrylamide or its derivatives, vinyl ethers and vinylpyrrolidone;
  • polystyrenesulfonic acid salts such as the sodium salts that are sold for example under the name Flexan ® II by Akzo Nobel (INCI name Sodium polystyrene sulfonate) . These compounds are described in patent FR 2 198 719;
  • polyacrylamidesulfonic acid salts such as those mentioned in Patent US 4 128 631 , and more particularly the polyacrylamidoethylpropanesulfonic acid, sold under the name Rheocare ® HSP-1 180 par Cognis ( INCI name polyacrylamidomethylpropane sulfonic acid),
  • B' sulfonic polyesters, these polymers being advantageously obtained by polycondensation of at least one dicarboxylic acid, of at least one diol or of a mixture of diol and of diamine, and of at least one difunctional monomer comprising a sulfonic function.
  • these polymers mention may be made of:
  • polyesters such as those described in patent application Nos. US 3 734 874, US 3 779 993, US 4 1 19 680, US 4 300 580, US 4 973 656, US 5 660 816, US 5 662 893 and US 5 674 479.
  • Such polymers are, for example, the products Eastman ® AQ38S Polymer, Eastman ® AQ55S Polymer and Eastman ® AQ48 Ultra Polymer sold by the company Eastman Chemical (name Polyester-5) which are copolymers obtained from diethylene glycol, from 1 ,4- cyclohexanedimethanol, from isophthalic acid and from sulfoisophthalic acid salt;
  • the anionic fixing polymers are preferably chosen from copolymers of acrylic acid, such as the acrylic acid/ethyl acrylate/N-tert- butylacrylamide terpolymers sold in particular under the name Ultrahold ® Strong by the company BASF, copolymers derived from crotonic acid, such as vinyl acetate/vinyl tert-butylbenzoate/crotonic acid terpolymers and the crotonic acid/vinyl acetate/vinyl neododecanoate terpolymers sold in particular under the name Resyn 28-2930 by the company Akzo Nobel, polymers derived from maleic, fumaric or itaconic acids or anhydrides with vinyl esters, vinyl ethers, vinyl halides, phenylvinyl derivatives and acrylic acid and esters thereof, such as the methyl vinyl ether/monoesterified maleic anhydride copolymers sold, for example, under the names Gantrez ®
  • the cationic fixing polymers that can be used according to the present invention are preferably chosen from polymers comprising primary, secondary, tertiary and/or quaternary amine groups forming part of the polymer chain or directly attached thereto, and having a molecular weight of between 500 and approximately 5 000 000 and preferably between 1000 and 3 000 000.
  • R 3 denotes a hydrogen atom or a CH 3 radical
  • A is a linear or branched alkyl group comprising from 1 to 6 carbon atoms or a hydroxyalkyl group comprising from 1 to 4 carbon atoms;
  • R 4 , R 5 and R 6 which may be identical or different, represent an alkyl group having from 1 to 18 carbon atoms or a benzyl radical;
  • Ri and R 2 which may be identical or different, each represent a hydrogen atom or an alkyl group having from 1 to 6 carbon atoms;
  • X denotes a methosulfate anion or a halide such as chloride or bromide.
  • the copolymers of family (1 ) also contain one or more units derived from comonomers that may be chosen from the family of acrylamides, methacrylamides, diacetone acrylamides, acrylamides and methacrylamides substituted on the nitrogen with lower (CrC 4 ) alkyl groups, groups derived from acrylic or methacrylic acids or esters thereof, vinyllactams such as vinylpyrrolidone or vinylcaprolactam, and vinyl esters.
  • - fatty-chain polymers containing a vinylpyrrolidone unit such as the products sold under the name Styleze ® W20 and Styleze ® W10 by the company ISP (INCI name Polyquaternium-55) , dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate/vinylcaprolactam/vinylpyrrolidone terpolymers, such as the products sold under the names Advantage HC 37 or Gaffix ® VC 713 by the company ISP (INCI name Vinyl caprolactam / VP / dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate copolymer), and
  • cationic polysaccharides preferably containing quaternary ammonium, such as those described in US patent Nos. 3 589 578 and 4 031 307, such as guar gums containing trialkylammonium cationic groups.
  • quaternary ammonium such as those described in US patent Nos. 3 589 578 and 4 031 307
  • guar gums containing trialkylammonium cationic groups Such products are sold in particular under the trade names Jaguar ® C13 S, Jaguar ® C 15 and Jaguar ® C 17 by the company Rhodia (INCI name Guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride);
  • chitosans or salts thereof are, in particular, chitosan acetate, lactate, glutamate, gluconate or pyrrolidonecarboxylate.
  • cationic cellulose derivatives such as copolymers of cellulose or of cellulose derivatives grafted with a water-soluble monomer comprising a quaternary ammonium, and described in particular in patent US 4 131 576, such as hydroxyalkylcelluloses, for instance hydroxymethyl-, hydroxyethyl- or hydroxypropylcelluloses grafted in particular with a methacryloyloxyethyltrimethylammonium, methacrylamidopropyltrimethylammonium or dimethyldiallylammonium salt.
  • hydroxyalkylcelluloses for instance hydroxymethyl-, hydroxyethyl- or hydroxypropylcelluloses grafted in particular with a methacryloyloxyethyltrimethylammonium, methacrylamidopropyltrimethylammonium or dimethyldiallylammonium salt.
  • the commercial products corresponding to this definition are, more particularly, the products sold under the name Celquat ® L 200 and Celquat ® H 100 by the company Akzo Nobel (INCI name Polyquaternium-4).
  • the amphoteric fixing polymers that can be used in accordance with the invention can be chosen from polymers comprising units B and C distributed randomly in the polymer chain, where B denotes a unit derived from a monomer comprising at least one basic nitrogen atom and C denotes a unit derived from an acid monomer comprising one or more carboxylic or sulfonic groups, or alternatively B and C can denote groups derived from carboxybetaine or sulfobetaine zwitterionic monomers.
  • B and C can also denote a cationic polymer chain comprising primary, secondary, tertiary or quaternary amine groups, in which at least one of the amine groups bears a carboxylic or sulfonic group connected via a hydrocarbon-based group, or alternatively B and C form part of a chain of a polymer comprising an ⁇ , ⁇ - dicarboxylic ethylene unit in which one of the carboxylic groups has been made to react with a polyamine comprising one or more primary or secondary amine groups.
  • amphoteric fixing polymers corresponding to the definition given above that are more particularly preferred are chosen from the following polymers:
  • copolymers comprising acidic vinyl units and basic vinyl units, such as those resulting from the copolymerization of a monomer derived from a vinyl compound bearing a carboxylic group such as, more particularly, acrylic acid, methacrylic acid, maleic acid, ochloroacrylic acid, and of a basic monomer derived from a substituted vinyl compound containing at least one basic atom, such as, more particularly, dialkylaminoalkyl methacrylate and acrylate, dialkylaminoalkylmethacrylamides and -acrylamides.
  • a monomer derived from a vinyl compound bearing a carboxylic group such as, more particularly, acrylic acid, methacrylic acid, maleic acid, ochloroacrylic acid
  • a basic monomer derived from a substituted vinyl compound containing at least one basic atom such as, more particularly, dialkylaminoalkyl methacrylate and acrylate, dialkylaminoalkylmethacrylamides and -acrylamides.
  • At least one basic comonomer such as esters containing primary, secondary, tertiary and quaternary amine substituents of acrylic and methacrylic acids and the product of quaternization of dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate with dimethyl or diethyl sulfate.
  • the N-substituted acrylamides or methacrylamides that are more particularly preferred according to the invention are compounds in which the alkyl groups contain from 2 to 12 carbon atoms and more particularly N-ethylacrylamide, N-ie f- butylacrylamide, N-ie f-octylacrylamide, N-octylacrylamide, N-decylacrylamide, N- dodecylacrylamide and the corresponding methacrylamides.
  • the acidic comonomers are selected more particularly from acrylic, methacrylic, crotonic, itaconic, maleic and fumaric acid and alkyl monoesters, having 1 to 4 carbon atoms, of maleic or fumaric acid or anhydride.
  • the preferred basic comonomers are aminoethyl, butylaminoethyl, ⁇ , ⁇ '- dimethylaminoethyl and N-ie f-butylaminoethyl methacrylates.
  • copolymers whose INCI name is octylacrylamide/acrylates/butylaminoethyl methacrylate copolymer, such as the products sold under the names Amphomer ® , Amphomer ® LV71 or Balance ® 47 by the company Akzo Nobel, are particularly used;
  • R 10 represents a divalent group derived from a saturated dicarboxylic acid, a mono- or dicarboxylic aliphatic acid containing an ethylenic double bond, an ester of a lower alkanol, having 1 to 6 carbon atoms, of these acids, or a group derived from the addition of any one of said acids to a bis(primary) or bis(secondary) amine
  • Z denotes a group derived from a bis(primary), mono(secondary) or bis(secondary) polyalkylene-polyamine and preferably represents:
  • this group being deriving from diethylenetriamine, from triethylenetetramine or from dipropylenetriamine;
  • N N c in proportions of from 0 to 20 mol%, the -NH-(CH 2 )6-NH- group deriving from hexamethylenediamine, these polyaminoamides being crosslinked by addition reaction of a difunctional crosslinking agent chosen from epihalohydrins, diepoxides, dianhydrides and bis-unsaturated derivatives, using from 0.025 to 0.35 mol of crosslinking agent per amine group of the polyaminoamide and acylated by the action of acrylic acid, chloroacetic acid or an alkane sultone, or salts thereof.
  • a difunctional crosslinking agent chosen from epihalohydrins, diepoxides, dianhydrides and bis-unsaturated derivatives
  • the saturated carboxylic acids are preferably chosen from acids having 6 to 10 carbon atoms, such as adipic acid, 2,2,4-trimethyladipic acid and 2,4,4- trimethyladipic acid, terephthalic acid, acids containing an ethylenic double bond such as, for example, acrylic acid, methacrylic acid and itaconic acid.
  • the alkane sultones used in the acylation are preferably propane sultone or butane sultone;
  • the salts of the acylating agents are preferably the sodium or potassium salts;
  • R-n denotes a polymerizable unsaturated group such as an acrylate, methacrylate, acrylamide or methacrylamide group
  • y and z represent an integer from 1 to 3
  • Ri 2 and Ri 3 represent a hydrogen atom, a methyl, ethyl or propyl group
  • R-I4 and Ri 5 represent a hydrogen atom or an alkyl group such that the sum of the carbon atoms in R 14 and Ri 5 does not exceed 10.
  • the polymers comprising such units can also comprise units derived from non-zwitterionic monomers such as dimethyl- or diethylaminoethyl acrylate or methacrylate or alkyl acrylates or methacrylates, acrylamides or methacrylamides or vinyl acetate.
  • methyl methacrylate/methyl dimethylcarboxymethylammonioethyl methacrylate copolymers such as the product sold under the name Diaformer Z-301 N or Z-301 W by the company Clariant (INCI name Acrylates copolymer);
  • R 16 represents a group of formula:
  • R -7— c (0)— c in which, if q 0, Ri 7 , Ri 8 and Ri 9 , which may be identical or different, each represent a hydrogen atom, a methyl, hydroxyl, acetoxy or amino residue, a monoalkylamine residue or a dialkylamine residue that are optionally interrupted by one or more nitrogen atoms and/or optionally substituted with one or more amine, hydroxyl, carboxyl, alkylthio or sulfonic groups, an alkylthio residue in which the alkyl group bears an amino residue, at least one of the groups Ri 7 , Ris and Ri 9 being, in this case, a hydrogen atom;
  • R 17 , R 18 and Ri 9 each represent a hydrogen atom, as well as the salts formed by these compounds with bases or acids;
  • R 20 represents a hydrogen atom, a CH 3 0, CH 3 CH 2 0 or phenyl group
  • R21 denotes a hydrogen atom or a lower alkyl group such as methyl or ethyl
  • R22 denotes a hydrogen atom or a Ci -6 lower alkyl group such as methyl or ethyl
  • R23 denotes a Ci -6 lower alkyl group such as methyl or ethyl or a group corresponding to the formula: -R24-N(R 22 )2, R24 representing a -CH 2 -CH 2 -, -CH2-CH2-CH2- or -CH 2 - CH(CH 3 )- group, R22 having the meanings mentioned above;
  • polymers derived from the N-carboxyalkylation of chitosan such as N- carboxymethyl chitosan or N-carboxybutyl chitosan, for instance the product sold under the name Chitoglycan by the company Sinerga SPA (INCI name Carboxymethyl chitosan);
  • amphoteric polymers of the -D-X-D-X- type chosen from:
  • E or E', E or E' which may be identical or different, denote a divalent group that is an alkylene group with a straight or branched chain containing up to 7 carbon atoms in the main chain, which is unsubstituted or substituted with hydroxyl groups and which can comprise, in addition to the oxygen, nitrogen and sulfur atoms, 1 to 3 aromatic and/or heterocyclic rings; the oxygen, nitrogen and sulfur atoms being present in the form of ether, thioether, sulfoxide, sulfone, sulfonium, alkylamine or alkenylamine groups, hydroxyl, benzylamine, amine oxide, quaternary ammonium, amide, imide, alcohol, ester and/or urethane groups;
  • E denotes the symbol E or E' and at least once E';
  • E having the meaning given above and E' is a divalent group that is an alkylene group with a straight or branched chain having up to 7 carbon atoms in the main chain, which is unsubstituted or substituted with one or more hydroxyl groups and containing one or more nitrogen atoms, the nitrogen atom being substituted with an alkyi chain that is optionally interrupted by an oxygen atom and necessarily comprising one or more carboxyl functions or one or more hydroxyl functions and betainized by reaction with chloroacetic acid or sodium chloroacetate;
  • These copolymers can also comprise other vinyl comonomers such as vinylcaprolactam.
  • amphoteric fixing polymers mentioned above that are most particularly preferred according to the invention, mention will be made of those of family (3), such as the copolymers of which the INCI name is Octylacrylamide/acrylates/butylaminoethyl methacrylate copolymer, such as the products sold under the names Amphomer ® , Amphomer ® LV 71 or Balance ® 47 by the company Akzo Nobel and those of family (4), such as the methyl methacrylate/methyl dimethylcarboxymethylammonioethyl methacrylate copolymers sold, for example, under the name Diaformer Z-301 N or Z-301 W by the company Clariant.
  • family (3) such as the copolymers of which the INCI name is Octylacrylamide/acrylates/butylaminoethyl methacrylate copolymer, such as the products sold under the names Amphomer ® , Amphomer ® LV 71 or Balance ® 47 by the company Akzo Nobel and
  • non-ionic fixing polymers that may be used in accordance with the invention may be chosen, for example, from:
  • vinyl acetate copolymers for instance copolymers of vinyl acetate and of acrylic ester; copolymers of vinyl acetate and of ethylene, copolymers of vinyl acetate and of maleic ester, for example of dibutyl maleate, or vinyl acetate/vinyl alcohol copolymers in particular resulting from the partial hydrolysis of vinyl acetate;
  • - styrene homopolymers for instance copolymers of styrene, of alkyl acrylate and of alkyl methacrylate; copolymers of styrene and butadiene, or copolymers of styrene, of butadiene and of vinylpyridine;
  • vinyllactam homopolymers such as the vinylpyrrolidone homopolymers sold, for example, under the names Luviskol ® K30 powder by the company BASF or PVP K30L or K60 solution or K90 by the company ISP, or such as the polyvinylcaprolactam sold under the name Luviskol ® Plus by the company BASF (INCI name PVP);
  • vinyllactam copolymers such as a poly(vinylpyrrolidone/vinyllactam) copolymer sold under the trade name Luvitec ® VPC 55K65W by the company BASF, poly(vinylpyrrolidone/vinyl acetate) copolymers, such as those sold under the name PVPA A ® S630L, E735, E635 and W735 by the company ISP, Luviskol ® VA 73, VA 64 and VA 37 by the company BASF(INCI name VPA A copolymer); and vinylpyrrolidone/methacrylamide/vinylimidazole terpolymers, for instance the product sold under the name Luviset ® Clear by the company BASF (INCI name VP/methacrylamide/vinyl imidazole copolymer);
  • the alkyl groups of the abovementioned non-ionic polymers preferably have from 1 to 6 carbon atoms.
  • the fixing polymer(s) may represent from 0.1 % to 50% by weight, more preferentially from 0.5% to 20% by weight and better still from 1 % to
  • the weight ratio between, on the one hand, the amount of fatty-chain silane(s) of formula (I) and/or oligomers thereof, and, on the other hand, the amount of fixing polymer(s) ranges from 0.05 to 20, more preferably from 0.1 to 10 and better still from 0.2 to 5.
  • composition may also comprise at least one surfactant.
  • the surfactants are chosen from anionic, cationic, non-ionic, amphoteric and zwitterionic surfactants.
  • anionic surfactants that may be used in the composition according to the invention, mention may be made of alkyl sulfates, alkyl ether sulfates, alkylamido ether sulfates, alkylarylpolyether sulfates, monoglyceride sulfates, alkylsulfonates, alkylamidesulfonates, alkylarylsulfonates, a-olefin sulfonates, paraffin sulfonates, alkylsulfosuccinates, alkylether sulfosuccinates, alkylamide sulfosuccinates, alkylsulfoacetates, acylsarcosinates, acylglutamates, alkylsulfosuccinamates, acylisethionates and N-acyltaurates, salts of alkyl monoesters of polyglycoside-polycar
  • These compounds can be oxyethylenated and then preferably comprise from 1 to 50 ethylene oxide units.
  • the salts of C 6 -C 2 4 alkyl monoesters of polyglycoside-polycarboxylic acids can be chosen from C 6 -C 2 4 alkyl polyglycoside-citrates, C 6 -C 2 4 alkyl polyglycoside-tartrates and C 6 -C 2 4 alkyl polyglycoside-sulfosuccinates.
  • anionic surfactant(s) When the anionic surfactant(s) are in salt form, it/they may be chosen from alkali metal salts such as the sodium or potassium salt and preferably the sodium salt, ammonium salts, amine salts and in particular amino alcohol salts or alkaline-earth metal salts such as the magnesium salts.
  • alkali metal salts such as the sodium or potassium salt and preferably the sodium salt, ammonium salts, amine salts and in particular amino alcohol salts or alkaline-earth metal salts such as the magnesium salts.
  • amino alcohol salts examples include monoethanolamine, diethanolamine and triethanolamine salts, monoisopropanolamine, diisopropanolamine or triisopropanolamine salts, and 2- amino-2-methyl-1 -propanol, 2-amino-2-methyl-1 ,3-propanediol and tris(hydroxymethyl)aminomethane salts.
  • Alkali metal or alkaline-earth metal salts and in particular sodium or magnesium salts, are preferably used.
  • Use is preferably made, among the anionic surfactants mentioned, of (C 6 - C 24 )alkyl sulfates, (C 6 -C 24 )alkyl ether sulfates comprising from 2 to 50 ethylene oxide units, in particular in the form of alkali metal, ammonium, amino alcohol and alkaline- earth metal salts, or a mixture of these compounds.
  • (Ci 2 -C 20 )alkyl sulfates (Ci 2 -C 20 )alkyl ether sulfates comprising from 2 to 20 ethylene oxide units, in particular in the form of alkali metal, ammonium, amino alcohol and alkaline-earth metal salts, or a mixture of these compounds.
  • sodium lauryl ether sulfate containing 2.2 mol of ethylene oxide.
  • They are in particular chosen from alcohols, a-diols and (Ci- C 2 o)alkylphenols, these compounds being etherified with ethoxylated, propoxylated or glycerolated groups and containing at least one fatty chain comprising, for example, from 8 to 40 carbon atoms, the number of ethylene oxide or propylene oxide groups possibly ranging in particular from 1 to 200, and the number of glycerol groups possibly ranging in particular from 1 to 30.
  • polyethoxylated fatty amides preferably having from 2 to 30 ethylene oxide units, polyglycerolated
  • amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants which can be used in the present invention may in particular be secondary or tertiary aliphatic amine derivatives in which the aliphatic group is a linear or branched chain containing from 8 to 22 carbon atoms, said amine derivatives containing at least one anionic group, for instance a carboxylate, sulfonate, sulfate, phosphate or phosphonate group.
  • Use may also be made of the compound classified in the CTFA dictionary under the name sodium diethylaminopropyl cocoaspartamide and sold by the company Chimex under the name Chimexane HB.
  • amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants mentioned above, use is preferably made of (C 8 -C 2 o)alkylbetaines such as cocobetaine, (C 8 -C2o)alkylamido(C 3 - C 8 )alkylbetaines such as cocamidopropylbetaine, the compounds of formula (B'2), such as the sodium salt of diethylminopropyl laurylaminosuccinamate (INCI name: sodium diethylaminopropyl cocoaspartamide) and mixtures thereof. More preferentially, the amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactant(s) are chosen from cocamidopropylbetaine and cocobetaine.
  • the cationic surfactant(s) which can be used in the composition comprise, for example, salts of optionally polyoxyalkylenated primary, secondary or tertiary fatty amines, quaternary ammonium salts, and mixtures thereof.
  • quaternary ammonium salts examples include:
  • - tetraalkylammonium chlorides such as, for example, dialkyldimethylammonium or alkyltrimethylammonium chlorides in which the alkyl group comprises approximately from 12 to 22 carbon atoms, in particular behenyltrimethylammonium, distearyldimethylammonium, cetyltrimethylammonium or benzyldimethylstearylammonium chlorides, or else, secondly, to distearoylethylhydroxyethylmethylammonium methosulfate, dipalmitoyl- ethylhydroxyethylammonium methosulfate or distearoylethylhydroxyethylammonium methosulfate, or else, lastly, to palmitylamidopropyltrimethylammonium chloride or stearamidopropyldimethyl(myristyl acetate)ammonium chloride, sold under the name Ceraphyl® 70 by the company Van Dyk;
  • quaternary ammonium salts containing one or more ester functions such as the salts, in particular the chloride or methyl sulfate, of diacyloxyethyldimethylammonium, diacyloxyethylhydroxyethylmethylammonium,
  • acyl groups preferably contain 14 to 18 carbon atoms and are obtained more particularly from a plant oil, such as palm oil or sunflower oil. When the compound comprises several acyl groups, these groups may be identical or different.
  • This esterification is followed by a quaternization by means of an alkylating agent such as an alkyl halide, preferably methyl or ethyl halide, a dialkyl sulfate, preferably dimethyl or diethyl sulfate, methyl methanesulfonate, methyl para- toluenesulfonate, glycol chlorohydrin or glycerol chlorohydrin.
  • an alkylating agent such as an alkyl halide, preferably methyl or ethyl halide, a dialkyl sulfate, preferably dimethyl or diethyl sulfate, methyl methanesulfonate, methyl para- toluenesulfonate, glycol chlorohydrin or glycerol chlorohydrin.
  • Such compounds are sold, for example, under the names Dehyquart® by the company Henkel, Stepanquat® by the company Stepan, Noxamium® by the company Ceca or Rewoquat® WE 18 by the company Rewo-Witco.
  • the composition may contain, for example, a mixture of quaternary ammonium salts of monoesters, diesters and triesters with a weight majority of diester salts.
  • Use may be made of behenoylhydroxypropyltrimethylammonium chloride, sold by Kao under the name Quatarmin BTC 131 .
  • the ammonium salts containing at least one ester function contain two ester functions.
  • cationic surfactants that may be present in the composition, it is more particularly preferred to choose cetyltrimethylammonium, behenyltrimethylammonium and dipalmitoylethylhydroxyethylmethylammonium salts, and mixtures thereof, and more particularly behenyltrimethylammonium chloride, cetyltrimethylammonium chloride and dipalmitoylethylhydroxyethylammonium methosulfate, and mixtures thereof.
  • the surfactants may represent from 0.01 % to 30%, preferably from 0.1 % to 20% by weight and better still from 1 % to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the composition may contain at least one fatty substance.
  • fatty substance is intended to mean an organic compound which is insoluble in water at normal temperature (25°C) and at atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg, i.e. 1.013 x 10 5 Pa), that is to say with a solubility of less than 4% by weight, preferably of less than 1 % by weight and even more preferentially of less than 0.1 % by weight. They exhibit, in their structure, at least one hydrocarbon-based chain comprising at least 6 carbon atoms or a sequence of at least two siloxane groups.
  • the fatty substances are soluble in organic solvents under the same temperature and pressure conditions, for instance chloroform, ethanol or benzene.
  • the fatty substances are not etherified with oxyalkylenated or glycerolated groups.
  • the fatty substances of the invention may be liquid or non-liquid at ambient temperature (25°C) and at atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg; i.e. 1.013x10 5 Pa).
  • the liquid fatty substances of the invention preferably have a viscosity of less than or equal to 2 Pa.s, better still less than or equal to 1 Pa.s and even better still less than or equal to 0.1 Pa.s at a temperature of 25°C and at a shear rate of 1 s '
  • Liquid fatty substances that may be mentioned include silicone or non-silicone oils.
  • non-silicone o/V means an oil not containing any silicon (Si) atoms and the term "silicone o/V means an oil containing at least one silicon atom.
  • the fatty substances are chosen from C 6 -Ci 6 hydrocarbons, hydrocarbons containing more than 16 carbon atoms, non-silicone oils of animal origin, plant oils of triglyceride type, synthetic triglycerides, fluoro oils, fatty alcohols, fatty acid and/or fatty alcohol esters other than triglycerides and plant waxes, non- silicone waxes and silicones, and mixtures thereof.
  • fatty alcohols, esters and acids more particularly exhibit at least one saturated or unsaturated and linear or branched hydrocarbon- based group which comprises from 6 to 30 and better still from 8 to 30 carbon atoms and which is optionally substituted, in particular with one or more hydroxyl groups (in particular 1 to 4). If they are unsaturated, these compounds may comprise one to three conjugated or unconjugated carbon-carbon double bonds.
  • C 6 -Ci 6 hydrocarbons they are linear, branched or optionally cyclic, and are preferably alkanes. Mention may be made, by way of example, of hexane, dodecane or isoparaffins, such as isohexadecane or isodecane.
  • triglyceride oils of plant or synthetic origin are preferably chosen from liquid fatty acid triglycerides containing from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, for instance heptanoic or octanoic acid triglycerides, or alternatively, for example, sunflower oil, corn oil, soybean oil, marrow oil, grapeseed oil, sesame seed oil, hazelnut oil, apricot oil, macadamia oil, arara oil, castor oil, avocado oil, caprylic/capric acid triglycerides, for instance those sold by the company Stearineries Dubois or those sold under the names Miglyol® 810, 812 and 818 by the company Dynamit Nobel, jojoba oil and shea butter oil.
  • the linear or branched hydrocarbons of mineral or synthetic origin having more than 16 carbon atoms are preferably chosen from liquid paraffins, petroleum jelly, liquid petroleum jelly, polydecenes or hydrogenated polyisobutene, such as Parleam®.
  • C 6 -Ci 6 alkanes they are linear, branched or optionally cyclic.
  • oils of animal, plant, mineral or synthetic origin that may be used in the composition of the invention, examples that may be mentioned include:
  • fluoro oils which may be chosen from perfluoromethylcyclopentane and perfluoro-1 ,3- dimethylcyclohexane, sold under the names Flutec ® PC1 and Flutec ® PC3 by the company BNFL Fluorochemicals; perfluoro-1 ,2-dimethylcyclobutane; perfluoroalkanes such as dodecafluoropentane and tetradecafluorohexane, sold under the names PF 5050 ® and PF 5060 ® by the company 3M, or bromoperfluorooctyl sold under the name Foralkyl ® by the company Atochem; nonafluoromethoxybutane and nonafluoroethoxyisobutane; perfluoromorpholine derivatives such as 4-trifluoromethyl perfluoromorpholine sold under the name PF 5052 ® by the company 3M.
  • the fatty alcohols which are suitable for the implementation of the invention are more particularly chosen from saturated or unsaturated and linear or branched alcohols comprising from 6 to 30 carbon atoms and preferably from 8 to 30 carbon atoms. Mention may be made, for example, of cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol and their mixture (cetearyl alcohol), octyldodecanol, 2-butyloctanol, 2-hexyldecanol, 2- undecylpentadecanol, oleyl alcohol or linoleyl alcohol.
  • esters which are advantageously different from the triglycerides mentioned above, mention may be made in particular of esters of saturated or unsaturated and linear or branched Ci-C 2 6 aliphatic monoacids or polyacids and of saturated or unsaturated and linear or branched Ci-C 2 6 aliphatic monoalcohols or polyalcohols, the total carbon number of the esters being greater than or equal to 6 and more advantageously greater than or equal to 10.
  • dihydroabietyl behenate octyldodecyl behenate; isocetyl behenate; cetyl lactate; Ci 2 -Ci 5 alkyl lactate; isostearyl lactate; lauryl lactate; linoleyl lactate; oleyl lactate; (iso)stearyl octanoate; isocetyl octanoate; octyl octanoate; cetyl octanoate; decyl oleate; isocetyl isostearate; isocetyl laurate; isocetyl stearate; isodecyl octanoate; isodecyl oleate; isononyl isononanoate; isostearyl palmitate; methylacetyl ricinoleate; myristyl stearate
  • esters of C4-C22 dicarboxylic or tricarboxylic acids and of C1-C22 alcohols and esters of mono-, di- or tricarboxylic acids and of C 2 - C 2 6 di-, tri-, tetra- or pentahydroxy alcohols may also be used.
  • esters mentioned above use is preferably made of ethyl, isopropyl, myristyl, cetyl or stearyl palmitate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, 2-octyldecyl palmitate, alkyl myristates, such as isopropyl, butyl, cetyl or 2-octyldodecyl myristate, hexyl stearate, butyl stearate, isobutyl stearate, dioctyl malate, hexyl laurate, 2-hexyldecyl laurate, isononyl isononanoate or cetyl octanoate.
  • alkyl myristates such as isopropyl, butyl, cetyl or 2-octyldodecyl myristate, hexyl stearate, butyl stearate, isobutyl ste
  • composition may also comprise, as fatty ester, sugar esters and diesters of C 6 -C 3 o and preferably C12-C22 fatty acids.
  • sugar esters and diesters of C 6 -C 3 o and preferably C12-C22 fatty acids.
  • sugar esters are understood to mean oxygen-bearing hydrocarbon-based compounds that contain several alcohol functions, with or without aldehyde or ketone functions, and that comprise at least 4 carbon atoms.
  • sugars can be monosaccharides, oligosaccharides or polysaccharides.
  • sucrose or saccharose
  • glucose or saccharose
  • galactose or ribose
  • fucose maltose
  • maltose fructose
  • mannose mannose
  • arabinose xylose
  • lactose and derivatives thereof, in particular alkyl derivatives, such as methyl derivatives, for instance methylglucose.
  • the sugar esters of fatty acids may be chosen in particular from the group comprising the esters or mixtures of esters of sugars described previously and of linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C 6 -C 3 o and preferably C12-C22 fatty acids. If they are unsaturated, these compounds may comprise one to three conjugated or unconjugated carbon-carbon double bonds.
  • esters according to this variant can also be chosen from mono-, di-, tri- and tetraesters, polyesters, and mixtures thereof.
  • esters can, for example, be oleates, laurates, palmitates, myristates, behenates, cocoates, stearates, linoleates, linolenates, caprates, arachidonates or mixtures thereof, such as, in particular, oleate/palmitate, oleate/stearate or palmitate/stearate mixed esters.
  • monoesters and diesters and in particular mono- or di-oleate, -stearate, -behenate, -oleate/palmitate, -linoleate, -linolenate or -oleate/stearate of sucrose, of glucose or of methylglucose.
  • esters or mixtures of esters of sugar and of fatty acid examples include:
  • sucrose palmitostearates formed from 73% monoester and 27% diester and triester, from 61 % monoester and 39% diester, triester and tetraester, from 52% monoester and 48% diester, triester and tetraester, from 45% monoester and 55% diester, triester and tetraester, from 39% monoester and 61 % diester, triester and tetraester, and sucrose monolaurate;
  • Ryoto Sugar Esters for example referenced B370 and corresponding to sucrose behenate formed from 20% monoester and 80% diester-tri ester-polyester;
  • sucrose monopalmitostearate-dipalmitostearate sold by the company Goldschmidt under the name Tegosoft ® PSE.
  • the non-silicone wax(es) are chosen in particular from carnauba wax, candelilla wax, esparto wax, paraffin wax, ozokerite, plant waxes, such as olive tree wax, rice wax, hydrogenated jojoba wax or absolute flower waxes, such as the blackcurrant blossom essential wax sold by the company Bertin (France), or animal waxes, such as beeswaxes or modified beeswaxes (cerabellina); other waxes or waxy starting materials which can be used according to the invention are in particular marine waxes, such as that sold by the company Sophim under the reference M82, polyethylene waxes or polyolefin waxes in general.
  • the silicones that may be used in the cosmetic compositions are volatile or nonvolatile, cyclic, linear or branched silicones, which are unmodified or modified with organic groups, having a viscosity from 5x10 "6 to 2.5 m 2 /s at 25°C, and preferably 1 x10 "5 to 1 m 2 /s.
  • the silicones which can be used in accordance with the invention can be in the form of oils, waxes, resins or gums.
  • the silicone is chosen from polydialkylsiloxanes, in particular polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMSs), and organomodified polysiloxanes comprising at least one functional group chosen from amino groups and alkoxy groups.
  • PDMSs polydimethylsiloxanes
  • organomodified polysiloxanes comprising at least one functional group chosen from amino groups and alkoxy groups.
  • Organopolysiloxanes are defined in greater detail in Walter Noll's "Chemistry and Technology of Silicones” (1968), Academic Press. They can be volatile or nonvolatile.
  • the silicones are more particularly chosen from those having a boiling point of between 60°C and 260°C, and more particularly still from:
  • cyclic polydialkylsiloxanes containing from 3 to 7 and preferably from 4 to 5 silicon atoms.
  • cyclic polydialkylsiloxanes containing from 3 to 7 and preferably from 4 to 5 silicon atoms.
  • These are, for example, octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane sold in particular under the name Volatile Silicone ® 7207 by Union Carbide or Silbione ® 70045 V2 by Rhodia, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane sold under the name Volatile Silicone ® 7158 by Union Carbide, and Silbione ® 70045 V5 by Rhodia, and mixtures thereof.
  • Use is preferably made of non-volatile polydialkylsiloxanes, polydialkylsiloxane gums and resins, polyorganosiloxanes modified with the organofunctional groups above, and mixtures thereof.
  • silicones are more particularly chosen from polydialkylsiloxanes, among which mention may be made mainly of polydimethylsiloxanes having trimethylsilyl end groups.
  • the viscosity of the silicones is measured at 25°C according to Standard ASTM 445 Appendix C.
  • oils of the 200 series from the company Dow Corning such as DC200 with a viscosity of 60 000 mm 2 /s;
  • CTFA dimethiconol
  • polydialkylsiloxanes In this category of polydialkylsiloxanes, mention may also be made of the products sold under the names Abil Wax® 9800 and 9801 by the company Goldschmidt, which are polydi(CrC 2 o)alkylsiloxanes.
  • the silicone gums that may be used in accordance with the invention are in particular polydialkylsiloxanes and preferably polydimethylsiloxanes with high number- average molecular weights of between 200 000 and 1 000 000, used alone or as a mixture in a solvent.
  • This solvent can be chosen from volatile silicones, polydimethylsiloxane (PDMS) oils, polyphenylmethylsiloxane (PPMS) oils, isoparaffins, polyisobutylenes, methylene chloride, pentane, dodecane, tridecane or their mixtures.
  • Products which can be used more particularly in accordance with the invention are mixtures such as:
  • CTFA dimethiconol
  • CFA cyclic polydimethylsiloxane
  • the product SF 1236 is a mixture of a gum SE 30 defined above, with a viscosity of 20 m 2 /s, and of an oil SF 96 with a viscosity of 5x10 "6 m 2 /s. This product preferably comprises 15% of gum SE 30 and 85% of an oil SF 96.
  • organopolysiloxane resins that may be used in accordance with the invention are crosslinked siloxane systems containing the following units:
  • R represents an alkyl containing 1 to 16 carbon atoms.
  • R denotes a C C 4 lower alkyl group, more particularly methyl.
  • organomodified silicones that can be used in accordance with the invention are silicones as defined above and comprising in their structure one or more organofunctional groups attached via a hydrocarbon-based group.
  • the organomodified silicones can be polydiarylsiloxanes, in particular polydiphenylsiloxanes, and polyalkylarylsiloxanes functionalized by the abovementioned organofunctional groups.
  • the polyalkylarylsiloxanes are particularly chosen from linear and/or branched polydimethyl/methylphenylsiloxanes and polydimethyl/diphenylsiloxanes with a viscosity ranging from 1 x10 "5 to 5x10 "2 m 2 /s at 25°C.
  • silicones of the PK series from Bayer such as the product PK20;
  • silicones of the PN and PH series from Bayer such as the products PN1000 and PH1000;
  • oils of the SF series from General Electric such as SF 1023, SF 1 154, SF 1250 and SF 1265.
  • organomodified silicones of polyorganosiloxanes comprising:
  • substituted or unsubstituted amino groups such as the products sold under the name GP 4 Silicone Fluid and GP 7100 by the company Genesee or the products sold under the names Q2 8220 and Dow Corning 929 or 939 by the company Dow Corning.
  • the substituted amino groups are, in particular, CrC 4 aminoalkyl groups;
  • Copolymer F-755 by SWS Silicones, and Abil Wax ® 2428, 2434 and 2440 by the company Goldschmidt.
  • the fatty substances are chosen from compounds that are liquid or pasty at ambient temperature (25°C) and at atmospheric pressure.
  • the fatty substance is a compound that is liquid at a temperature of
  • the fatty substances are advantageously chosen from C 6 -Ci 6 alkanes, non- silicone oils of plant, mineral or synthetic origin, fatty alcohols, fatty acid and/or fatty alcohol esters, or mixtures thereof.
  • the fatty substance is chosen from liquid petroleum jelly, C 6 -Ci 6 alkanes, polydecenes, liquid fatty acid and/or fatty alcohol esters, liquid fatty alcohols, or mixtures thereof.
  • the fatty substances may represent from 0.01 % to 95%, preferably from 0.1 % to 90% by weight, better still from 0.5% to 80% by weight and even better still from 1 % to 30% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the composition may comprise a plasticizer.
  • a plasticizer Such an agent may be chosen from any compound known to those skilled in the art as being capable of fulfilling the desired function. In particular, this agent is chosen from the usual plasticizers or coalescers, such as:
  • glycols and derivatives thereof such as diethylene glycol ethyl ether, diethylene glycol methyl ether, diethylene glycol butyl ether or diethylene glycol hexyl ether, ethylene glycol ethyl ether, ethylene glycol butyl ether, ethylene glycol hexyl ether or pentylene glycol,
  • propylene glycol derivatives and in particular propylene glycol phenyl ether, propylene glycol diacetate, propylene glycol butyl ether, tripropylene glycol butyl ether, propylene glycol methyl ether, dipropylene glycol ethyl ether, tripropylene glycol methyl ether, diethylene glycol methyl ether and propylene glycol butyl ether,
  • carboxylic acid esters such as citrates, phthalates, adipates, carbonates, tartrates, phosphates or sebacates,
  • the amount of plasticizer can be chosen by those skilled in the art on the basis of their general knowledge, so as to obtain a polymeric system resulting in a film which has the desired mechanical properties. In practice, this amount ranges from 0.01 % to 25% of the total weight of the composition and better still from 0.01 % to 15%.
  • the composition may be aqueous or anhydrous.
  • anhydrous means a composition not containing any added water, i.e. a composition in which the water that may be present comes only from the water of crystallization or of adsorption of the starting materials. In any event, an anhydrous composition contains less than 5% by weight of water and preferably less than 1 % by weight of water, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the composition according to the invention comprises a solvent chosen from water and liquid organic solvents.
  • the composition in a first variant, if the composition is aqueous, it comprises less than 50% of water, preferably from 5% to 45% of water, better still from 5% to 25% of water and even better still from 5% to 15% by weight of water, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the composition in aqueous, it comprises at least 50% of water, preferably from 50% to 95% of water, better still from 55% to 90% of water and even better still from 60% to 85% by weight of water, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the composition may contain one or more organic solvents that are liquid at ambient temperature (25°C) and at atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg, i.e. 1 .013 ⁇ 10 5 Pa).
  • the liquid organic solvent(s) can be chosen from C1-C4 lower alcohols, such as ethanol, isopropanol, tert-butanol or n-butanol, polyols and polyol ethers such as propylene glycol, polyethylene glycol or glycerol, C 3 - C 4 ketones, for instance acetone and methyl ethyl ketone, C1-C4 alkyl acetates, for instance methyl acetate and ethyl acetate, and mixtures thereof.
  • the solvent is preferably ethanol.
  • the composition is aqueous, alcoholic or aqueous-alcoholic.
  • the alcohol When the alcohol is present, its proportion is in particular between 1 % and 99% by weight, preferably between 5% and 90% by weight and even more preferentially between 10% and 85% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the pH of the composition if it is aqueous, generally ranges from 2 to 9 and in particular from 3 to 8. It may be adjusted to the desired value by means of acidifying or basifying agents normally used in the cosmetics industry for this type of application, or alternatively using standard buffer systems.
  • examples that may be mentioned include the organic acids already mentioned previously, or inorganic acids.
  • inorganic acid is intended to mean any acid derived from an inorganic compound.
  • inorganic acids mention may be made of hydrochloric acid, orthophosphoric acid, sulfuric acid, sulfonic acids and nitric acid.
  • Use may be made in particular of inorganic or organic acids such as hydrochloric acid, orthophosphoric acid or sulfuric acid, carboxylic acids, for instance acetic acid, tartaric acid, citric acid or lactic acid, and sulfonic acids.
  • inorganic or organic acids such as hydrochloric acid, orthophosphoric acid or sulfuric acid, carboxylic acids, for instance acetic acid, tartaric acid, citric acid or lactic acid, and sulfonic acids.
  • basifying agents examples that may be mentioned include aqueous ammonia, alkali metal carbonates, alkanolamines, such as mono-, di- and triethanolamines and derivatives thereof, sodium hydroxide, potassium hydroxide and the compounds of the following formula:
  • R in which W is a propylene residue optionally substituted with a hydroxyl group or a C1-C4 alkyl group;
  • R a , R b , R c and R d which may be identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom or a C1-C4 alkyl or C1-C4 hydroxyalkyl group.
  • the pH modifiers may be chosen from alkaline agents, such as aqueous ammonia, monoethanolamine, diethanolamine, triethanolamine, 1 ,3- propanediamine or an alkaline hydroxide, such as 2-amino-2-methyl-1 -propanol, or else acidifying agents, such as phosphoric acid or hydrochloric acid.
  • alkaline agents such as aqueous ammonia, monoethanolamine, diethanolamine, triethanolamine, 1 ,3- propanediamine or an alkaline hydroxide, such as 2-amino-2-methyl-1 -propanol, or else acidifying agents, such as phosphoric acid or hydrochloric acid.
  • the composition may be in the form of a solution, a dispersion or an emulsion.
  • the polymer may be emulsified as an oil-in-water or water-in-oil emulsion or as a multiple emulsion.
  • composition may be in the form of a foam or a lacquer.
  • the composition is packaged in an aerosol device.
  • the liquid phase/propellant weight ratio of the pressurized composition of the present invention is preferably between 50 and 0.05, and in particular between 50 and 1 .
  • the propellant that can be used in the composition according to the invention is chosen from dimethyl ether, C 3 -C 5 alkanes, and hydrocarbons which are chlorinated and/or fluorinated, halogenated or non-halogenated, and volatile, customarily used in aerosol devices. Carbon dioxide, nitrous oxide, nitrogen or compressed air, or mixtures thereof, may also be used as propellant.
  • the compound(s) constituting the propellant used are chosen from non-halogenated C 3 -C 5 alkanes, such as propane, n-butane and isobutane, halogenated, and in particular chlorinated and/or fluorinated, C 3 -C 5 alkanes, such as 1 ,1 -difluoroethane, and mixtures thereof.
  • non-halogenated C 3 -C 5 alkanes such as propane, n-butane and isobutane
  • halogenated and in particular chlorinated and/or fluorinated
  • C 3 -C 5 alkanes such as 1 ,1 -difluoroethane, and mixtures thereof.
  • the alkane(s) of the propellant gas are nonhalogenated.
  • the propellant gas is dimethyl ether or a mixture of propane, n-butane and isobutane.
  • the composition introduced into the aerosol device may, for example, be in the form of a lotion, or dispersions or emulsions which, after dispensing from the aerosol device, form foams to be applied to keratin substances.
  • the composition may also contain at least one cationic, non-ionic, anionic or amphoteric surfactant as previously described.
  • the propellant is present in the composition in proportions preferably ranging from 0.1 % to 99% by weight, more preferentially from 1 .5% to 50% by weight and better still from 2% to 30% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the propellant when it is a hydrocarbon or a mixture of hydrocarbons, it is present in the composition in proportions preferably ranging from 0.1 % to 60% by weight, more preferentially from 0.5% to 30% by weight and better still from 0.5% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the propellant when it is a gas which is partially soluble in the composition, such as dimethyl ether or 1 ,1 -difluoroethane, it is present in the composition in proportions preferably ranging from 10% to 50% by weight and more preferentially from 30% to 45% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the aerosol device used to package the composition may be made up of two compartments, formed from an outer aerosol can comprising an inner bag hermetically sealed to a valve.
  • the composition is introduced into the inner bag and a compressed gas is introduced between the bag and the can at a pressure sufficient to make the product come out in the form of a spray through a nozzle orifice.
  • a compressed gas is preferably used at a pressure of between 1 and 12 bar and even better still between 9 and 1 1 bar.
  • compositions may also contain one or more additional compounds chosen from ceramides and pseudoceramides, vitamins and provitamins, including panthenol, water-soluble or liposoluble, silicone or non-silicone sunscreens, nacreous agents and opacifiers, sequestrants, antifoams, non-fixing cationic polymers, silanes other than those of formula (I), chitosans and derivatives, inorganic and organic thickeners, antioxidants, hydroxy acids, antidandruff agents, anti-seborrhoeic agents, hair-loss counteractants and/or hair restorers, penetrants, fragrances, peptizers, amino acids and preservatives, or any other additive conventionally used in the cosmetics field.
  • additional compounds chosen from ceramides and pseudoceramides, vitamins and provitamins, including panthenol, water-soluble or liposoluble, silicone or non-silicone sunscreens, nacreous agents and opacifiers, sequest
  • additives may be present in the composition in an amount ranging from 0 to 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the leave-on time of the composition on the keratin materials ranges from a few seconds to 60 minutes, better still from 5 seconds to 30 minutes and even better still from 10 seconds to 10 minutes.
  • the heating device may be a hairdryer, a hood dryer, a curling iron or a flat iron.
  • the heating temperature may be between 40°C and 220°C, in particular at 200°C.
  • composition according to the invention may take place on dry hair or on wet hair. It may in particular be carried out after a shampooing operation or after a pretreatment at acidic or basic pH.
  • composition of the invention may also be followed by a post-treatment at acidic or basic pH, followed in particular by drying at ambient temperature or by drying by supplying heat, using a hairdryer, a hood dryer, a curling iron or a flat iron.
  • composition of the invention may be applied to the hair in combination with chemical treatments such as oxidations, reductions, buffer solutions or mechanical treatments.
  • compositions according to the invention are prepared from the compounds indicated in the table below.
  • Composition 1 (aerosol):
  • Composition 2 (aerosol):
  • Composition 3 (aerosol):
  • Composition 4 (aerosol):
  • Composition 5 (aerosol):
  • composition 6 (aerosol):
  • Composition 7 (aerosol):
  • Composition 8 (aerosol foam):
  • composition 9 (aerosol foam):
  • Compositions 1 to 9 are applied to dry hair at ambient temperature and without rinsing.
  • the fibres After drying, good form retention of the hairstyle is obtained, with no introduction of a greasy appearance or feel.
  • the fibres have a soft natural feel and are smooth after disentangling.

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  • Cosmetics (AREA)

Abstract

La présente invention concerne un procédé cosmétique pour le traitement des cheveux consistant à appliquer sur les cheveux une composition cosmétique comprenant : -un ou plusieurs silanes à chaîne grasse de formule (I) citée ci-après et/ou des oligomères de ceux-ci : R1Si(OR2)z(R3)x(OH)y (I). Dans ladite formule (I) • R1 représente un groupe alkyle ou alcényle linéaire ou ramifié comprenant 7 à 18 atomes de carbone, • R2 et R3, qui peuvent être identiques ou différents, représentent un groupe alkyle linéaire ou ramifié comprenant 1 à 6 atomes de carbone, • y représente un nombre entier allant de 0 à 3, • z désigne un nombre entier allant de 0 à 3, de préférence de 1 à 3 et mieux encore égal à 3; et • x désigne un nombre entier allant de 0 à 2, • z + x + y = 3. Ladite composition comprend aussi un ou plusieurs propulseurs. L'invention concerne également l'utilisation de ladite composition pour la mise en forme et/ou la fixation de fibres de kératine, telles que des fibres de kératine humaines et, notamment, des cheveux.
PCT/EP2013/058711 2012-04-26 2013-04-26 Procédé pour le traitement des cheveux avec une composition cosmétique sous pression contenant un silane à chaîne grasse WO2013160440A2 (fr)

Applications Claiming Priority (4)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
FR1253831A FR2989880B1 (fr) 2012-04-26 2012-04-26 Composition cosmetique pressurisee comprenant un silane a chaine grasse
FR1253831 2012-04-26
US201261668058P 2012-07-05 2012-07-05
US61/668,058 2012-07-05

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WO2013160440A3 WO2013160440A3 (fr) 2014-04-10

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Cited By (3)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
CN113226252A (zh) * 2018-12-20 2021-08-06 欧莱雅 含有富含脂肪物质的组合物的气溶胶泡沫装置
US11357714B2 (en) 2020-07-21 2022-06-14 Chembeau LLC Diester cosmetic formulations and uses thereof
US20230190612A1 (en) * 2021-12-20 2023-06-22 Gelest, Inc. Methods and compositions for the protection of hair

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Cited By (5)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
CN113226252A (zh) * 2018-12-20 2021-08-06 欧莱雅 含有富含脂肪物质的组合物的气溶胶泡沫装置
US11357714B2 (en) 2020-07-21 2022-06-14 Chembeau LLC Diester cosmetic formulations and uses thereof
US11491092B2 (en) 2020-07-21 2022-11-08 Chembeau LLC Hair treatment formulations and uses thereof
US11801211B2 (en) 2020-07-21 2023-10-31 Chembeau LLC Hair treatment formulations and uses thereof
US20230190612A1 (en) * 2021-12-20 2023-06-22 Gelest, Inc. Methods and compositions for the protection of hair

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WO2013160440A3 (fr) 2014-04-10
FR2989880B1 (fr) 2016-07-01

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