WO2013104978A1 - Alloy for the production of jewellery - Google Patents

Alloy for the production of jewellery Download PDF

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Publication number
WO2013104978A1
WO2013104978A1 PCT/IB2013/000027 IB2013000027W WO2013104978A1 WO 2013104978 A1 WO2013104978 A1 WO 2013104978A1 IB 2013000027 W IB2013000027 W IB 2013000027W WO 2013104978 A1 WO2013104978 A1 WO 2013104978A1
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WO
WIPO (PCT)
Prior art keywords
alloy
weight
gold
alloys
silver
Prior art date
Application number
PCT/IB2013/000027
Other languages
French (fr)
Inventor
Mario GARFARINO
Original Assignee
One Karat Gold Srl
Priority date (The priority date is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the date listed.)
Filing date
Publication date
Application filed by One Karat Gold Srl filed Critical One Karat Gold Srl
Publication of WO2013104978A1 publication Critical patent/WO2013104978A1/en

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Classifications

    • CCHEMISTRY; METALLURGY
    • C22METALLURGY; FERROUS OR NON-FERROUS ALLOYS; TREATMENT OF ALLOYS OR NON-FERROUS METALS
    • C22CALLOYS
    • C22C9/00Alloys based on copper
    • C22C9/04Alloys based on copper with zinc as the next major constituent
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A44HABERDASHERY; JEWELLERY
    • A44CPERSONAL ADORNMENTS, e.g. JEWELLERY; COINS
    • A44C27/00Making jewellery or other personal adornments
    • A44C27/001Materials for manufacturing jewellery
    • A44C27/002Metallic materials
    • A44C27/003Metallic alloys
    • BPERFORMING OPERATIONS; TRANSPORTING
    • B22CASTING; POWDER METALLURGY
    • B22DCASTING OF METALS; CASTING OF OTHER SUBSTANCES BY THE SAME PROCESSES OR DEVICES
    • B22D23/00Casting processes not provided for in groups B22D1/00 - B22D21/00
    • BPERFORMING OPERATIONS; TRANSPORTING
    • B22CASTING; POWDER METALLURGY
    • B22DCASTING OF METALS; CASTING OF OTHER SUBSTANCES BY THE SAME PROCESSES OR DEVICES
    • B22D25/00Special casting characterised by the nature of the product
    • B22D25/02Special casting characterised by the nature of the product by its peculiarity of shape; of works of art
    • B22D25/026Casting jewelry articles
    • CCHEMISTRY; METALLURGY
    • C22METALLURGY; FERROUS OR NON-FERROUS ALLOYS; TREATMENT OF ALLOYS OR NON-FERROUS METALS
    • C22FCHANGING THE PHYSICAL STRUCTURE OF NON-FERROUS METALS AND NON-FERROUS ALLOYS
    • C22F1/00Changing the physical structure of non-ferrous metals or alloys by heat treatment or by hot or cold working
    • C22F1/04Changing the physical structure of non-ferrous metals or alloys by heat treatment or by hot or cold working of aluminium or alloys based thereon

Definitions

  • the invention concerns an alloy for the production of jewels.
  • the invention also concerns a process for preparing the alloy for mechanical machining, its use for precision casting and the items produced therewith.
  • a large number of gold alloys for making jewels is known in the market of jewellery and costume jewellery.
  • Gold is a metal that does not oxidize easily but it is very expensive.
  • the specific weight of gold is relatively high, which limits the reasonable size of jewels, in particular in the case of earrings and chains for necklaces in large sizes.
  • the market of costume jewellery has developed various alloys based on copper and zinc, components of brass, which cost less than gold alloys but pose several drawbacks.
  • the main object of the present invention is to propose an alloy with low gold carat rating that can be used to create jewels having substantially the same brightness and the same colour as 18-carat jewels. It is a further object of the invention to propose alloys with low gold carat rating that have the appearance of traditional gold alloys, in particular yellow gold or rose gold alloys, offer better workability than 18-carat gold and do not oxidize easily.
  • a further object of the present invention is to propose an alloy whose specific weight is lower than that of traditional gold alloy from 8 carats upwards.
  • a minimum quantity of gold compared to the quantity of standard gold corresponding to 24 carats, allows items to be produced that may be 40% bigger than 18-carat items, given the lower specific weight, proportionally smaller than with other carat ratings, and makes it possible to obtain an alloy whose colour is like that of 18-carat gold and which, above all, does not oxidize easily.
  • the alloy is very elastic, partly easier to clean, polish and machine than other gold alloys with higher carat rating.
  • the result of lapping after polishing is better than that obtained with 18, 14 and 9- carat gold alloys.
  • the alloy may contain tin, silocon, germanium, gallium and indium in quantities that are considered traces.
  • the alloy can be adapted to the most different needs in terms of colour and workability, and this without affecting its resistance to oxidation.
  • the alloy according to the invention has a higher zinc content and a lower silver content, a choice that cannot be considered a routine solution for the expert when needing to obtain some specific colours, as zinc and silver move in similar directions, or to obtain alloys with low oxidizability, since low oxidizability is more related to silver than to zinc.
  • the alloy that is the subject of the invention makes it possible to obtain a metallic material that can be used to create jewels having substantially the same brightness and the same colour as 18-ca rat jewels.
  • the alloy substantially has the following composition: approximately 4.17% gold by weight, 51.1 to 51.3% copper by weight, 35.4 to 35.6% zinc by weight and 8.9 to 9.1% silver by weight. This composition has the appearance of traditional yellow gold.
  • the alloy according to the invention produces a yellow gold colour through an increase in the content of the "silvery" metal zinc and a decrease in the content of copper.
  • a preferred alloy suited to imitate the appearance of rose gold is the following: approximately 4.17% gold by weight, 69.3 to 69.5% copper by weight, 17.1 to 17.3% zinc by weight and 9.0 to 9.2% silver by weight.
  • One aspect of the invention concerns the use of the alloy according to the invention for precision casting. After the first melting step the alloy according to the invention can be used for precision casting.
  • a further aspect of the invention concerns a process that prepares the alloy for mechanical machining.
  • the process includes the following steps, in the given order: (a) preparation of an alloy according to the invention; (b) repeated casting, preferably double casting, of the alloy, and (c) repeated annealing in the oven at approximately 800°C.
  • Another important aspect of the invention concerns the items produced with the alloy according to the invention.
  • the item is a jewel.
  • Other possible items are, for example, watches, coins, cutlery, candle holders or other artistic craftwork items.
  • the invention achieves the object to provide an improved alloy that, in addition to looking like gold and offering mechanical workability and casting workability well above those of 8-carat and 22-carat gold, does not oxidize easily.
  • the proposed alloy has a specific weight that is lower than that of traditional gold alloys starting from 8 carats.
  • the invention also achieves the object to provide a process for preparing the alloy for mechanical machining.
  • the production of the alloy follows the methods known in the art for producing gold, silver, brass alloys etc which are not described herein for the sake of brevity.
  • the following table 1 lists two examples of alloy: one is a yellow gold-coloured alloy, while the other is a rose gold-coloured alloy.
  • the sum of the percentages does not correspond exactly to 100%, due to traces of other elements contained in the raw materials or to possible errors made while determining the percentages or weighing the raw materials.
  • the table 2 lists in detail also the traces of other elements.

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  • Chemical & Material Sciences (AREA)
  • Engineering & Computer Science (AREA)
  • Mechanical Engineering (AREA)
  • Materials Engineering (AREA)
  • Metallurgy (AREA)
  • Organic Chemistry (AREA)
  • Manufacturing & Machinery (AREA)
  • Physics & Mathematics (AREA)
  • Thermal Sciences (AREA)
  • Crystallography & Structural Chemistry (AREA)
  • Adornments (AREA)

Abstract

The invention concerns an alloy for the production of jewels, comprising approximately 4.17% gold by weight, 50 to 70% copper by weight, 17 to 36% zinc by weight, 8.9 to 9.2% silver by weight. The invention also concerns the use of the alloy for precision casting, the items produced with the alloy and a process for preparing the alloy for mechanical machining.

Description

ALLOY FOR THE PRODUCTION OF JEWELLERY
DESCRIPTION
Technical field of the invention
The invention concerns an alloy for the production of jewels. The invention also concerns a process for preparing the alloy for mechanical machining, its use for precision casting and the items produced therewith.
State of the art
A large number of gold alloys for making jewels is known in the market of jewellery and costume jewellery. Gold is a metal that does not oxidize easily but it is very expensive. The specific weight of gold is relatively high, which limits the reasonable size of jewels, in particular in the case of earrings and chains for necklaces in large sizes. In order to be able to offer jewels also at contained prices, the market of costume jewellery has developed various alloys based on copper and zinc, components of brass, which cost less than gold alloys but pose several drawbacks.
In order to avoid the oxidation of the alloy and thus the alteration of the gilded appearance, it is necessary to coat the item, for example with a golden layer or with galvanic treatments. This layer, however, is subject to wear. Due to the oxidation processes, the alloys that replace the traditional gold alloys do not maintain their gilded appearance over time and need to be frequently coated with alloys having a high gold content. Moreover, often these alloys cannot imitate the external appearance of gold perfectly, meaning its colour and degree of brightness.
The US patent application no. US 2009/0317291 A1 describes gold alloys with various carat ratings, comprising silver, copper, zinc and, in small quantities, silicon and/or germanium. The application, however, admits that some of the alloys with low carat rating present non-negligible oxidations, without specifying, however, what alloys with low carat rating do not suffer from this problem.
Presentation of the invention
The main object of the present invention is to propose an alloy with low gold carat rating that can be used to create jewels having substantially the same brightness and the same colour as 18-carat jewels. It is a further object of the invention to propose alloys with low gold carat rating that have the appearance of traditional gold alloys, in particular yellow gold or rose gold alloys, offer better workability than 18-carat gold and do not oxidize easily.
A further object of the present invention is to propose an alloy whose specific weight is lower than that of traditional gold alloy from 8 carats upwards.
The objects mentioned above and others that are highlighted in greater detail below are achieved by an alloy for making jewels as defined in claim 1.
The variation in the content of copper compared to metals in silver colours, in particular zinc and silver, makes it possible to obtain different colours of the alloy, varying from red or rose through gold yellow until obtaining hues that correspond to those known for white gold.
Surprisingly, a minimum quantity of gold, compared to the quantity of standard gold corresponding to 24 carats, allows items to be produced that may be 40% bigger than 18-carat items, given the lower specific weight, proportionally smaller than with other carat ratings, and makes it possible to obtain an alloy whose colour is like that of 18-carat gold and which, above all, does not oxidize easily.
Moreover, the alloy is very elastic, partly easier to clean, polish and machine than other gold alloys with higher carat rating. The result of lapping after polishing is better than that obtained with 18, 14 and 9- carat gold alloys.
It cannot be excluded that the alloy may contain tin, silocon, germanium, gallium and indium in quantities that are considered traces.
Already with four main components the alloy can be adapted to the most different needs in terms of colour and workability, and this without affecting its resistance to oxidation.
Compared to the alloys described in document US 2009/0317291 A1 , the alloy according to the invention has a higher zinc content and a lower silver content, a choice that cannot be considered a routine solution for the expert when needing to obtain some specific colours, as zinc and silver move in similar directions, or to obtain alloys with low oxidizability, since low oxidizability is more related to silver than to zinc.
The expression "approximately" indicates that the gold percentage corresponds to the weight that in the industry is considered as one carat of gold. This minimum quantity of gold in the composition of the alloy according to the invention is sufficient to guarantee a low oxidizability of the material and makes it possible to define the alloy in terms of gold carats.
Advantageously, the alloy that is the subject of the invention makes it possible to obtain a metallic material that can be used to create jewels having substantially the same brightness and the same colour as 18-ca rat jewels. Preferably, the alloy substantially has the following composition: approximately 4.17% gold by weight, 51.1 to 51.3% copper by weight, 35.4 to 35.6% zinc by weight and 8.9 to 9.1% silver by weight. This composition has the appearance of traditional yellow gold.
Compared to the yellow gold alloys proposed by document US 2009/0317291 A1 , the alloy according to the invention produces a yellow gold colour through an increase in the content of the "silvery" metal zinc and a decrease in the content of copper.
A preferred alloy suited to imitate the appearance of rose gold is the following: approximately 4.17% gold by weight, 69.3 to 69.5% copper by weight, 17.1 to 17.3% zinc by weight and 9.0 to 9.2% silver by weight.
One aspect of the invention concerns the use of the alloy according to the invention for precision casting. After the first melting step the alloy according to the invention can be used for precision casting.
A further aspect of the invention concerns a process that prepares the alloy for mechanical machining.
The process includes the following steps, in the given order: (a) preparation of an alloy according to the invention; (b) repeated casting, preferably double casting, of the alloy, and (c) repeated annealing in the oven at approximately 800°C.
Another important aspect of the invention concerns the items produced with the alloy according to the invention.
According to a preferred variant embodiment of the invention, the item is a jewel. Other possible items are, for example, watches, coins, cutlery, candle holders or other artistic craftwork items.
The invention achieves the object to provide an improved alloy that, in addition to looking like gold and offering mechanical workability and casting workability well above those of 8-carat and 22-carat gold, does not oxidize easily.
Furthermore, the proposed alloy has a specific weight that is lower than that of traditional gold alloys starting from 8 carats.
The invention also achieves the object to provide a process for preparing the alloy for mechanical machining.
Further variants of the invention are described in the dependent claims. In the production stage the alloy, its intended use, the items manufactured therewith and the process that are the subjects of the invention can be subjected to modifications and variants that are not described herein. Said modifications or variants must all be considered protected by the present patent, provided that they fall within the scope of the claims expressed below.
Description of the preferred embodiments of the invention
The production of the alloy follows the methods known in the art for producing gold, silver, brass alloys etc which are not described herein for the sake of brevity.
The following table 1 lists two examples of alloy: one is a yellow gold-coloured alloy, while the other is a rose gold-coloured alloy.
Table 1
Figure imgf000005_0002
The sum of the percentages does not correspond exactly to 100%, due to traces of other elements contained in the raw materials or to possible errors made while determining the percentages or weighing the raw materials.
Concerning the example of the yellow gold-coloured alloy, the table 2 lists in detail also the traces of other elements.
Table 2. More detailed composition of the yellow gold-coloured alloy:
Figure imgf000005_0001
Figure imgf000006_0001

Claims

1) Alloy for the production of jewels, substantially constituted by approximately 4.17% gold by weight, 50 to 70% copper by weight, 17 to 36% zinc by weight, 8.9 to 9.2% silver by weight.
2) Alloy according to claim 1), characterized in that it substantially has the following composition: approximately 4.17% gold by weight, 51.1 to 51.3% copper by weight, 35.4 to 35.6% zinc by weight and 8.9 to 9.1% silver by weight.
3) Alloy according to claim 1), characterized in that it substantially has the following composition: approximately 4.17% gold by weight, 69.3 to
69.5% copper by weight, 17.1 to 17.3% zinc by weight and 9.0 to 9.2% silver by weight.
4) Use of the alloy according to any of the preceding claims for precision casting.
5) Process for the preparation of an alloy for mechanical machining, consisting of the following steps in the given order:
(a) preparation of an alloy according to any of the claims from 1) to 3);
(b) repeated casting, preferably double casting, of the alloy;
(c) repeated annealing in the oven at approximately 800 °C.
6) Item produced with an alloy according to any of the claims from 1) to 3).
7) Item according to claim 6), characterized in that the item is a jewel.
PCT/IB2013/000027 2012-01-13 2013-01-08 Alloy for the production of jewellery WO2013104978A1 (en)

Applications Claiming Priority (2)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
IT000009A ITVI20120009A1 (en) 2012-01-13 2012-01-13 LEAGUE FOR JEWELRY PRODUCTION
ITVI2012A000009 2012-01-13

Publications (1)

Publication Number Publication Date
WO2013104978A1 true WO2013104978A1 (en) 2013-07-18

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Citations (6)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
JPS60177156A (en) * 1984-02-23 1985-09-11 Tanaka Kikinzoku Kogyo Kk Golden copper alloy for ornamentation
JPS60177151A (en) * 1984-02-23 1985-09-11 Tanaka Kikinzoku Kogyo Kk Golden copper alloy for ornamentation
DE102005045477A1 (en) * 2005-09-22 2007-03-29 Qvc Handel Gmbh Gold alloy for manufacture of jewelry contains 75 to 91 per cent weight of the elements gold, silver, zinc and copper
RU2356974C1 (en) * 2008-01-09 2009-05-27 Юлия Алексеевна Щепочкина Alloy on basis of gilt copper
US20090317291A1 (en) * 2008-06-20 2009-12-24 Annette Gertge Variable karat gold alloys
JP2011089181A (en) * 2009-10-23 2011-05-06 Naito Kikinzoku Seisakusho:Kk Accessories stock having low content of pure gold

Family Cites Families (2)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
US4446102A (en) * 1982-01-27 1984-05-01 Bales Randy L Yellow gold jewelry alloy
JP2867058B2 (en) * 1990-03-20 1999-03-08 景介 戸田 Alloy brazing for precious metal joining

Patent Citations (6)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
JPS60177156A (en) * 1984-02-23 1985-09-11 Tanaka Kikinzoku Kogyo Kk Golden copper alloy for ornamentation
JPS60177151A (en) * 1984-02-23 1985-09-11 Tanaka Kikinzoku Kogyo Kk Golden copper alloy for ornamentation
DE102005045477A1 (en) * 2005-09-22 2007-03-29 Qvc Handel Gmbh Gold alloy for manufacture of jewelry contains 75 to 91 per cent weight of the elements gold, silver, zinc and copper
RU2356974C1 (en) * 2008-01-09 2009-05-27 Юлия Алексеевна Щепочкина Alloy on basis of gilt copper
US20090317291A1 (en) * 2008-06-20 2009-12-24 Annette Gertge Variable karat gold alloys
JP2011089181A (en) * 2009-10-23 2011-05-06 Naito Kikinzoku Seisakusho:Kk Accessories stock having low content of pure gold

Non-Patent Citations (1)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Title
DATABASE WPI Week 200939, Derwent World Patents Index; AN 2009-J80470, XP002695791 *

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