Classifications

• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A45—HAND OR TRAVELLING ARTICLES
  • A45D—HAIRDRESSING OR SHAVING EQUIPMENT; EQUIPMENT FOR COSMETICS OR COSMETIC TREATMENTS, e.g. FOR MANICURING OR PEDICURING
  • A45D40/00—Casings or accessories specially adapted for storing or handling solid or pasty toiletry or cosmetic substances, e.g. shaving soaps or lipsticks
  • A45D40/30—Masks for marking lips or eyelashes
• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A45—HAND OR TRAVELLING ARTICLES
  • A45D—HAIRDRESSING OR SHAVING EQUIPMENT; EQUIPMENT FOR COSMETICS OR COSMETIC TREATMENTS, e.g. FOR MANICURING OR PEDICURING
  • A45D34/00—Containers or accessories specially adapted for handling liquid toiletry or cosmetic substances, e.g. perfumes
• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A45—HAND OR TRAVELLING ARTICLES
  • A45D—HAIRDRESSING OR SHAVING EQUIPMENT; EQUIPMENT FOR COSMETICS OR COSMETIC TREATMENTS, e.g. FOR MANICURING OR PEDICURING
  • A45D34/00—Containers or accessories specially adapted for handling liquid toiletry or cosmetic substances, e.g. perfumes
  • A45D34/04—Appliances specially adapted for applying liquid, e.g. using roller or ball
• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A45—HAND OR TRAVELLING ARTICLES
  • A45D—HAIRDRESSING OR SHAVING EQUIPMENT; EQUIPMENT FOR COSMETICS OR COSMETIC TREATMENTS, e.g. FOR MANICURING OR PEDICURING
  • A45D40/00—Casings or accessories specially adapted for storing or handling solid or pasty toiletry or cosmetic substances, e.g. shaving soaps or lipsticks
• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
  • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
  • A61K8/02—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by special physical form
  • A61K8/0216—Solid or semisolid forms
  • A61K8/0229—Sticks
• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
  • A61Q1/00—Make-up preparations; Body powders; Preparations for removing make-up
  • A61Q1/02—Preparations containing skin colorants, e.g. pigments
  • A61Q1/04—Preparations containing skin colorants, e.g. pigments for lips
• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
  • A61K2800/00—Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
  • A61K2800/80—Process related aspects concerning the preparation of the cosmetic composition or the storage or application thereof
  • A61K2800/87—Application Devices; Containers; Packaging
• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
  • A61K2800/00—Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
  • A61K2800/80—Process related aspects concerning the preparation of the cosmetic composition or the storage or application thereof
  • A61K2800/88—Two- or multipart kits
  • A61K2800/884—Sequential application

Definitions

• the present invention relates to a lip makeup kit, a cosmetic product applicator for lips, the uses thereof and the lip makeup method using same. More specifically, the present invention relates to a makeup kit for decorating the lips with a plurality of different colors and/or appearances.
• the user may, when there is time, use a liner or a pencil to produce the contour, and a conventional lipstick to cover the interior portion of the lips. She may also overlay a plurality of layers of different products, for example applying one lipstick followed by a second, to obtain particular color effects, patterns or appearances of the lips.
• the mix of colors does not withstand well over time. Since the second layer is on top of the first, it wears off first, giving rise to an unappealing intermediary situation.
• the aim of the invention is to meet these needs.
• the purpose of the present invention is to enable lip makeup using various compositions having different colors and/or appearances.
• the purpose of the present invention is also to enable lip makeup with two-tone effects with a blend of the two colors.
• the purpose of the present invention is also to enable lip makeup with two-tone effects with a clear demarcation between the two colors.
• the purpose of the present invention is also to enable lip makeup with compositions of different appearances, for example one matt and the other gloss.
• the present invention thus relates to a makeup kit comprising:
• an applicator (10) of at least one cosmetic product on a user's lips of the type comprising an application surface (16), with a shape analogous to that of human lips, said application surface being intended to receive a cosmetic product, and
• At least one aqueous composition comprising a physiologically acceptable medium
• At least one oily composition separate from the aqueous composition, comprising a physiologically acceptable medium
• said aqueous composition containing at least 20% by weight of water with respect to the total weight of said aqueous composition
• said oily composition containing less than 5% by weight of water with respect to the total weight of said oily composition.
• the present invention relates to a makeup kit comprising:
• an applicator (10) of at least one cosmetic product on a user's lips of the type comprising an application surface (16), with a shape analogous to that of human lips, said application surface being intended to receive a cosmetic product, and
• At least one aqueous composition comprising a physiologically acceptable medium
• At least one oily composition separate from the aqueous composition, comprising a physiologically acceptable medium
• said aqueous composition containing at least 20% by weight of water with respect to the total weight of said aqueous composition
• oily composition containing less than 5% by weight of water with respect to the total weight of said oily composition
• At least one of the aqueous or oily compositions not being a water-in-oil emulsion.
• the oily composition according to the invention comprises less than 5% by weight or even less than 2% by weight of water with respect to the total weight of the composition and may particularly be anhydrous.
• the oily composition is an anhydrous composition.
• anhydrous particularly infers that water is preferably not deliberately added to the compositions but may be present at trace levels in the various compounds used in the compositions. Viscosity
• the aqueous composition has, at 20°C, a viscosity between 0.3 Pa.s and 100 Pa.s, preferably between 0.5 Pa.s and 100 Pa.s and optimally between 1 Pa.s and 40 Pa.s.
• the oily composition has, at 20°C, a viscosity between 0.5 Pa.s and 400 Pa.s, preferably between 1 Pa.s and 200 Pa.s and optimally between 2 Pa.s and 100 Pa.s.
• the aqueous and oily compositions will have a viscosity at 20°C greater than 0.3 Pa.s, particularly greater than 0.5 Pa.s according to the protocol described hereinafter.
• the viscosity is generally measured at 25°C, using a RHEOMAT RM 180 viscometer equipped with a moving body suitable for the viscosity of the product (moving body chosen such that the measurement is always between 10 and 90 DU, or Deviation Units), the measurement being made after 10 minutes of rotation of the moving body in the composition (times after which stabilization of the viscosity and rotational speed of the moving body is observed), at a shear rate of 200 s '
• the moving body 3 is generally used for compositions having a viscosity ⁇ 3Pa.s, the moving body 4 for compositions having a viscosity ranging from 3 to 20Pa.s, and the moving body 5 for compositions having a viscosity >20Pa.s.
• physiologically acceptable medium is intended to denote a medium that is particularly suitable for the application of a composition according to the invention to keratin materials, namely the skin or the lips.
• the physiologically acceptable medium is generally suitable for the nature of the support to which the composition should be applied, and also for the way in which the composition is to be packaged.
• the invention thus relates to a makeup kit comprising an applicator intended to apply a cosmetic product on a user's lips, said product comprising an aqueous composition and an oily composition.
• the aqueous and oily compositions have a different color and/or appearance or change to produce a different color and/or appearance.
• the term "leaves a different appearance” denotes that the colors may be initially identical but change over time to give rise to the creation of a difference in color or appearance. For example, if the color of one of the two does not hold as well over time as the other, a two-tone appearance will be created.
• the aim of the present invention is that of enabling lip makeup comprising a plurality of different colors or appearances.
• the aim of the present invention is also that of enabling lip makeup comprising patterns or designs.
• the ability of create effects increasing the relief effect of the lips is sought.
• it is sought to be able to place on some areas of the lips, particularly in the central part, a lighter or darker color which, by contrast with the color attributed to the rest of the surface of the lips, produces the impression of relief.
• the color difference ⁇ between the two areas does not need to be great ( ⁇ is greater than 2 and preferentially greater than 4 but less than 10).
• Delta E, dE or ⁇ is defined as a measurement of the difference between two colors.
• the formula defined in 1976 is given below:
• ⁇ - ⁇ , ⁇ ' ⁇ , ' ⁇ are the colorimetric space coordinates of the first color to be compared and L 2 ,a 2 ,b 2 are those of the second in the CIE Lab system (L meaning luminance, a red, b yellow).
• This measurement may be made by a camera.
• At least one of the aqueous or oily compositions comprises at least one dye, particularly chosen from pigments, colorants, reflective particles and mixtures thereof.
• each of the aqueous and oily compositions comprises at least one dye, the dye of the aqueous composition being different to the dye of the oily composition.
• a two-tone appearance is obtained on the user's lips.
• This two-tone appearance may, for example, have a blended effect, i.e. the demarcation area between the two colors is unclear.
• This two-tone appearance may also, for example, represent patterns if the demarcation area between the two colors is clear.
• the outline of the lips may be colored by applying any one of the two aqueous or oily compositions whereas the inside of the lips may be colored with the other composition.
• one of the two compositions does not produce a color or appearance on the lips.
• the dye (also referred to as “coloring agent”) may preferably be chosen from water-soluble or liposoluble colorants, pigments, nacres, glitter and mixtures thereof.
• the dyes may be present, in the aqueous or oily composition, at a content ranging from 0.01 % to 30% by weight, particularly at a content ranging from 0.1 to 15% by weight with respect to the weight of the composition.
• pigments should be understood to mean white or colored, mineral or organic particles, which are insoluble in an aqueous solution and are intended for coloring and/or opacifying the resulting film.
• the pigments may be present, in the aqueous or oily composition, at a content ranging from 0.01 % to 30% by weight, with respect to the weight of the aqueous or oily composition, preferably from 1 % to 12% by weight.
• mineral pigments that can be used in the invention, mention may be made of titanium, zirconium or cerium oxides, and also zinc, iron or chromium oxides, ferric blue, manganese violet, ultramarine blue and chromium hydrate.
• the pigment may also be a pigment having a structure that may be, for example, of sericite/brown iron oxide/titanium dioxide/silica type. Such a pigment is sold, for example, under the reference COVERLEAF NS or JS by the CHEMICALS AND CATALYSTS company and has a contrast ratio of around 30.
• the dye may also comprise a pigment having a structure that may, for example, be of the type of silica microspheres containing iron oxide.
• An example of a pigment having this structure is sold by MIYOSHI under the name PC BALL PC-LL-100 P, and this pigment consists of silica microspheres containing yellow iron oxide.
• the mineral pigments used in the present invention are chosen from the group consisting of iron oxides, titanium dioxide and silver.
• organic pigments suitable for use in the invention mention may be made of carbon black, D & C type pigments, lacquers based on cochineal carmine, barium, strontium, calcium, aluminum or diketopyrrolopyrrole (DPP) described in the documents EP-A-542669, EP-A-787730, EP-A-787731 and WO-A- 96/08537
• the organic pigment used in the present invention is carmine.
• nacres should be understood to mean iridescent or non-iridescent colored particles of any shape, which are in particular produced by certain mollusks in their shell or else are synthesized and which exhibit a color effect by optical interference.
• the nacres may be selected from pearlescent pigments such as titanium mica coated with iron oxide, titanium mica coated with bismuth oxychloride, titanium mica coated with chromium oxide, titanium mica coated with an organic dye, and pearlescent pigments based on bismuth oxychloride. This may also involve mica particles at the surface of which are superposed at least two successive layers of metal oxides and/or of organic dyes.
• nacres By way of example of nacres, mention may also be made of natural mica coated with titanium oxide, with iron oxide, with natural pigment or with bismuth oxychloride.
• TIMICA FLAMENCO and DUOCHROME nacres (based on mica) sold by ENGELHARD
• the TIMIRON nacres sold by MERCK
• the nacres based on mica PRESTIGE
• ECKART sold by ECKART
• the nacres based on synthetic mica SUNSHINE, sold by SUN CHEMICAL.
• the nacres may more particularly possess a yellow, pink, red, bronze, orange, brown, gold and/or copper color or glint.
• nacres which can be used in the context of the invention, mention may, in particular, be made of the gold nacres sold, in particular, by ENGELHARD, under the name Brilliant gold 212G (Timica), Gold 222C (Cloisonne), Sparkle gold (Timica), Gold 4504 (Chromalite) and Monarch gold 233X (Cloisonne); the bronze nacres, sold, in particular, by MERCK under the name Bronze fine (17384) (Colorona) and Bronze (17353) (Colorona) and by ENGELHARD under the name Super bronze (Cloisonne); the orange nacres, in particular, sold by ENGELHARD under the name Orange 363C (Cloisonne) and Orange MCR 101 (Cosmica) and by MERCK under the name Passion orange (Colorona) and Matte orange (17449) (Microna); the brown- hued nacres sold in particular by ENGELHARD under the name Nu-antique copper 340XB
• the nacres according to the present invention are chosen from synthetic fluorphlogopite, calcium and aluminum borosilicate, calcium and sodium borosilicate and mica.
• colorants refers to generally organic compounds soluble in fats such as oils or in a hydroalcoholic phase.
• the aqueous and oily compositions according to the invention may also comprise water-soluble or liposoluble colorants.
• the liposoluble colorants are for example Sudan Red, DC Red 17, DC Green 6, ⁇ -carotene, Sudan Brown, DC Yellow 1 1 , DC Violet 2, DC orange 5 and Quinoline Yellow.
• the water-soluble colorants are, for example, beetroot juice and methylene blue.
• the colorants or dyes are chosen from the group consisting of Yellow 5, Red 4, Red 7, Red 33, Red 40, Red 21 , Red 27, Red 28, Yellow 5 lake, Yellow 6 lake and Blue 1 lake.
• aqueous or oily compositions according to the invention may also contain at least one material with a specific optical effect, also referred to as glitter or reflective particles.
• this effect is different from a simple conventional hue effect, i.e. a unified and stabilized effect of the kind produced by conventional dyes, such as, for example, monochromatic pigments.
• the term "stabilized” signifies absence of an effect of variability of color with the angle of observation or in response to a temperature change.
• this material may be selected from particles having a metallic glint, goniochromatic coloring agents, diffracting pigments, thermochromatic agents, optical brighteners, and also fibers, in particular of the interference type.
• these various materials may be combined so as to provide the simultaneous manifestation of two effects, or even a new effect in accordance with the invention.
• an aqueous composition according to the invention comprises 20% to 90% by weight of water with respect to the total weight of the aqueous composition.
• the water may be a floral water such as cornflower water and/or a mineral water such as Vittel water, Lucas water or La Roche Posay water and/or a spring water.
• the aqueous composition also comprises at least one polar or water- soluble solvent.
• water-soluble solvent in the present invention denotes a compound that is liquid at ambient temperature and water-miscible (miscibility in water greater than 50% by weight at 25°C and atmospheric pressure).
• the water-soluble solvent(s) suitable for the invention may be chosen from Ci -8, and particularly Ci -5 , monoalcohols, particularly ethanol, isopropanol, tert-butanol, n- butanol, polyols, and mixtures thereof.
• the aqueous composition comprises at least one water-soluble solvent, particularly chosen from alcohols or polyols and more specifically in the group consisting of ethanol, glycerin, pentylene glycol and mixtures thereof.
• the aqueous composition may comprise at least one fat, preferably a non-volatile hydrocarbon polar oil,
• the aqueous composition preferentially comprises less than 35% by weight of fat with respect to the total weight of said composition.
• fat refers to a substance consisting of hydrophobic molecules.
• oils and fats suitable for use in the aqueous composition are described hereinafter.
• the oily composition comprises, according to one embodiment, a volatile oil, preferably chosen from silicone volatile oils.
• a volatile oil preferably chosen from silicone volatile oils.
• the oily composition comprises less than 30% by weight of volatile oil.
• the oily composition comprises, according to one embodiment, a non-volatile oil, preferably chosen from non-volatile silicone or hydrocarbon oils, particularly non-volatile silicone oils.
• the oily composition may also comprise an oily phase representing at least 15% by weight with respect to the total weight of said oily composition.
• the oily composition comprises at least one solid fat at a content less than or equal to 30% by weight with respect to the total weight of the composition.
• the oily composition may also comprise, in the oily phase, at least one hydrocarbon oil, which may be volatile or non-volatile.
• the oily composition may also comprise, in the oily phase, at least one silicone oil, which may be volatile or non-volatile.
• at least one silicone oil which may be volatile or non-volatile.
• it would consist of a non-volatile silicone oil, particularly a non-volatile phenylated silicone oil.
• the oily composition may also comprise at least one plant oil in the oily phase.
• the oily composition may also comprise at least one hydrocarbon ester in the oily phase.
• the oily composition may also comprise at least one fatty alcohol or fatty acid ester in the oily phase.
• the oily composition may also comprise at least one Ci 8 -C 3 6 liquid triglyceride in the oily phase.
• the oily composition may also comprise at least one wax, more specifically a hydrocarbon wax, in the oily phase.
• the oily composition may also comprise at least one polar oil in the oily phase.
• Polar oils may also comprise at least one polar oil in the oily phase.
• polar oil refers to an oil wherein the solubility at 25 °C, 5 a , is different to 0 (J/cm 3 ) 1 ⁇ 2 .
• This parameter is determined using a method described hereinafter.
• oils may be of plant, mineral or synthetic origin.
• polar hydrocarbon oil refers to an oil essentially formed, or consisting, of carbon and hydrogen atoms, and optionally oxygen, nitrogen atoms, and containing no silicon or fluorine. It may contain alcohol, ester, ether, carboxylic acid, amine and/or amide groups.
• non-volatile polar hydrocarbon oil may be chosen from the list of oils below, and mixtures thereof:
• plant-based hydrocarbon oils such as fatty acid liquid triglycerides having 4 to 10 carbon atoms such as heptanoic or octanoic acid triglycerides or jojoba oil;
• hydrocarbon esters having the formula RCOOR' wherein RCOO represents a carboxylic acid residue comprising 2 to 30 carbon atoms, and R' represents a hydrocarbon chain containing 1 to 30 carbon atoms, such as isononyl isononanoate, oleyl erucate or octyl-2-docecyl neopentanoate; isopropyl myristate;
• polyesters obtained by condensing unsaturated fatty acid dimers and/or trimers and diols such as those described in the patent application FR 0 853 634, such as in particular dilinoleic acid and 1 ,4- butanediol. Mention may particularly be made in this respect of the polymer sold by Biosynthesis under the name Viscoplast 14436H (I NCI name: dilinoleic acid/butanediol copolymer), or polyol and diacid dimer copolymers, and esters thereof, such as Hailuscent ISDA,
• fatty alcohols having 12 to 26 carbon atoms preferably monoalcohols, preferably branched, such as octyl dodecanol, 2-butyloctanol, 2-hexyl decanol, 2-undecyl pentadecanol, oleic acid;
• C12-C22 higher fatty acids such as oleic acid, linoleic acid, linolenic acid, and mixtures thereof;
• plant-based oils such as sesame oil (820.6 g/mol),
• fatty acids such as 12 to 26 carbon atoms such as oleic acid
• dialkyl carbonates the two alkyl chains possibly being identical or different, such as the dicaprylyl carbonate sold under the name Cetiol CC ® , by Cognis; and
• high molecular weight non-volatile oils for example between 650 and 850
• ester oils such as:
• dimer diol and mono- and dicarboxylic esters and polyesters such as dimer diol and fatty acid esters and dimer diol esters carboxylic diacid dimers, mention may particularly be made of dilinoleic diacid esters and dilinoleic diol dimers sold by NIPPON FINE CHEMICAL under the trade name LUSPLAN DD-DA5 ® and DD-DA7 ® and mixtures thereof.
• the dimer diol and mono-carboxylic acid esters mentioned above may be obtained from mono-carboxylic acid comprising 4 to 34 carbon atoms , particularly 10 to 32 carbon atoms, said acids being linear, branched, saturated or unsaturated.
• a mono-carboxylic acid suitable for the invention mention may particular be made of fatty acids.
• the dimer diol and dicarboxylic acid esters may be obtained from a carboxylic diacid dimer particularly derived from the dimerization of an unsaturated fatty acid, particularly C 8 to C34, particularly C12 to C22, particularly Ci 6 to C 2 o, and more particularly
• it consists more specifically of the carboxylic diacid dimer from which the dimer diol for esterification is also derived.
• the dimer diol and carboxylic acid esters may be obtained from a dimer diol produced by means of catalytic hydrogenation of a carboxylic diacid dimer as described, for example hydrogenated dilinoleic diacid diacid.
• dimer diol esters By way of example of dimer diol esters, mention may particularly be made of dilinoleic diacid and dilinolenic dimer diols esters sold by NIPPON FINE CHEMICAL under the trade name LUSPLAN DD-DA5 ® and DD-DA7 ® .
• the non-volatile polar hydrocarbon oil is chosen from isopropyl palmitate or octyldodecanol.
• the non-volatile hydrocarbon oils may be chosen from:
• non-volatile hydrocarbon non-polar oils These oils may be of plant, mineral or synthetic origin.
• non-polar oil refers to an oil wherein the solubility parameter at 25°C, 5 a , is equal to 0 (J/cm 3 ) 1 ⁇ 2 .
• ⁇ 3 ( ⁇ ⁇ 2 + 5 h 2 ) 1 ⁇ 2 .
• the parameters ⁇ ⁇ , 5 h , ⁇ 0 et 5 a are expressed in (J/cm 3 ) 1 ⁇ 2 .
• the non-volatile non-polar hydrocarbon oil is free from oxygen atoms.
• the non-volatile non-polar hydrocarbon oil may be chosen from mineral or synthetic linear or branched hydrocarbons such as:
• paraffin oil or derivatives thereof
• decene/butene copolymers polybutene/polyisobutene copolymers particularly Indopol L-14,
• the non-volatile polar hydrocarbon oils are mentioned above.
• the hydrocarbon oil is preferably chosen from the group consisting of isododecane, oleyl erucate, rosa canina fruit oil, sesame oil, lanolin oil, hydrogenated jojoba oil, tridecyl trimellitate, bis-diglyceryl polyacyladipate-2, diisostearyl malate, pentaerythrityl tetraisostearate, Ci 8 -C 36 triglyceride acids and mixtures thereof.
• the oily composition comprises at least one volatile oil.
• volatile oil is intended to mean any oil capable of evaporating on contact with keratin matter, in less than one hour, at ambient temperature and at atmospheric pressure (760 mm Hg).
• the volatile oils according to the invention are volatile cosmetic oils, which are liquid at ambient temperature, having a vapor pressure different to zero, at ambient temperature and atmospheric pressure, particularly ranging from 0.13 Pa to 40,000 Pa (10 "3 at 300 mm Hg), particularly ranging from 1 .3 Pa to 13,000 Pa (0.01 to 100 mm Hg), and more specifically ranging from 1.3 Pa to 1300 Pa (0.01 at 10 mm Hg).
• the volatile oils may hydrocarbon, silicone or fluorinated oils or mixtures thereof.
• silicon oil refers to an oil containing at least one silicon atom and particularly containing Si-0 groups.
• the volatile silicone oil suitable for use in the invention may be chosen from silicone oils particularly having a viscosity ⁇ 8 centistokes (cSt) (8 x 10 "6 m 2 /s).
• the volatile silicone oil suitable for use in the invention made by chosen from the silicone oils having a flash point ranging from 40°C to 102°C, preferably having a flash point greater than 55°C and less than or equal to 95°C, and preferentially ranging from 65°C to 95°C.
• the volatile silicone oil may be chosen from linear or cyclic silicone oils such as linear or cyclic polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMS) having 3 to 7 silicon atoms.
• PDMS linear or cyclic polydimethylsiloxanes
• oils By way of example of such oils, mention may be made of octyltrimethicone, hexyltrimethicone, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane (cyclopentasiloxane or D5), octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane (cyclotetradimethylsiloxane or D4), dodecamethylcyclo- hexasiloxane (D6), decamethyltetrasiloxane (L4), Shin Etsu KF 96 A, polydimethysiloxanes such as those sold under the reference DC 200 (1.5 cSt), DC 200 (5 cSt), DC 200 (3 cSt) by Dow Corning, dodecamethylpentasiloxane (L5) (INCI name Dimethicone), such as Shin Etsu KF-96L-2CS and Dow Corning DM-Fluid-2CS.
• DC 200 1.5 cSt
• DC 200 5 cS
• the volatile silicone oil is chosen from volatile linear silicone oils, volatile cyclic silicone oils and mixtures thereof.
• the volatile cyclic silicone oils are chosen from decamethylcyclopentasiloxane (cyclopentasiloxane or D5), dodecamethylcyclo- hexasiloxane (D6), and mixtures thereof.
• the volatile linear silicone oils are chosen from polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMS) having a molecular weight ranging from 1 to 5 est, particularly decamethylpentasiloxane (L5).
• PDMS polydimethylsiloxanes
• the volatile hydrocarbon oils may be chosen from hydrocarbon oils having 8 to 16 carbon atoms (preferably between 8 and 14 carbon atoms), and particularly volatile hydrocarbon oils wherein the flash point is less than or equal to 80°C (the flash point is particularly measured according to the ISO 3679 standard), and in particular:
• branched alkanes such as petroleum-based C 8 -C 16 isoalkanes (also referred to as isoparaffins) such as isododecane (also referred to as 2,2,4,4,6- pentamethylheptane), isodecane and for example the oils sold under the trade names Isopars' or Permetyls,
• volatile hydrocarbon oils such as petroleum distillates, particularly those sold under the name Shell Solt by SHELL, may also be used.
• the volatile solvent is chosen from volatile hydrocarbon oils having 8 to 16 carbon atoms and mixtures thereof.
• liquid ketones at ambient temperature such as methylethylketone, acetone
• short-chain esters having 3 to 8 carbon atoms in total
• liquid ethers at ambient temperature such as diethylether, dimethylether or dichlorodiethylether.
• the oily composition further comprises additional oils chosen from non-volatile polar or non-polar oils, particularly non-volatile hydrocarbon or silicone oils.
• Plant oils are oils obtained from plants or seeds. Particular mention may be made of shea oil, sweet almond oil, argan oil, calendula oil, jojoba oil, meadowfoam oil, olive oil, evening primrose oil, palm oil, grape seed oil, musk rose oil, sesame oil, soybean oil, sunflower oil, castor oil and mixtures thereof.
• the hydrocarbon esters may particularly be chosen from hydrocarbon esters having the formula RCOOR' wherein RCOO represents a carboxylic acid residue comprising 2 to 30 carbon atoms, and R' represents a hydrocarbon chain containing 1 to 30 carbon atoms.
• RCOOR' represents a carboxylic acid residue comprising 2 to 30 carbon atoms
• R' represents a hydrocarbon chain containing 1 to 30 carbon atoms.
• isononyl isononanoate oleyl erucate
• octyl-2-dodecyl neopentanoate and isopropyl myristate.
• the hydrocarbon esters are chosen from isopropyl palmitate, oleyl erucate, hexyl laurate, diisostearyl malate and mixtures thereof
• the fatty alcohol or fatty acid ester is pentaerythrityl tetraisostearate
• Triglycerides are glycerides wherein the three hydroxyl groups of the glycerol are esterified with fatty acids.
• the triglycerides chosen are C 18 -C 36 liquid triglycerides.
• aqueous and oily compositions according to the invention may comprise silicone and/or silicone derivatives, preferably phenylated silicone oils such as phenyl dimethicones.
• the oily composition comprises at least one additional non-volatile silicone oil.
• silicone derivatives mention may be made of non-phenylated non-volatile silicone oils:
• - PDMS comprising alkyl or alcoxy pendant and/or silicone chain-end groups, each having 2 to 24 carbon atoms,
• - PDMS comprising aliphatic and/or aromatic groups, or functional groups such as hydroxyl, thiol and/or amine groups,
• the silicone oils are phenylated.
• phenylated silicone oils mention may be made of:
• the R groups independently represent a methyl or a phenyl, provided that at least one R group represents a phenyl.
• the phenylated silicone oil comprises at least three phenyl groups, for example at least four, at least five or at least six.
• R I R I R I (II) wherein the R groups independently represent a methyl or a phenyl, provided that at least one R group represents a phenyl.
• said organopolysiloxane comprises at least three phenyl groups, for example at least four or at least five.
• Me represents methyl
• Ph phenyl
• Such a phenylated silicone is particularly manufactured by Dow Corning under the reference PH-1555 HRI or Dow Corning 555 Cosmetic Fluid (chemical name: 1 ,3,5-trimethyl 1 ,1 ,3,5,5-pentaphenyl trisiloxane, I NCI name: trimethyl pentaphenyl trisiloxane).
• the reference Dow Corning 554 Cosmetic Fluid may also be used.
• Me represents methyl
• y is between 1 and 1000
• X represents CH(CH 3 )(Ph).
• y varies between 1 and 1000.
• trimethyl siloxyphenyl dimethicone particularly sold under the reference BELSIL PDM 1000 marketed by Wacker, may be used.
• y is equal to 0.
• phenyl trimethylsiloxy trisiloxane particularly sold under the DOW CORNING 556 COSMETIC GRADE FLUID, may be used.
• phenylated silicone oils having the following formula (VI), and mixtures thereof:
• Ci-C 30 linear, cyclic or branched, saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon radicals are Ci-C 30 linear, cyclic or branched, saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon radicals
• n, p and q are, independently of each other, integers between 0 and 900, provided that the sum 'm+n+q' is different to 0.
• the sum 'm+n+q' is between 1 and 100.
• the sum 'm+n+p+q' is between 1 and 900, or preferably between 1 and 800.
• q is equal to O.
• Ci-C 30 linear, cyclic or branched, saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon radicals are Ci-C 30 linear, cyclic or branched, saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon radicals
• n and p are, independently of each other, integers between 0 and 100, provided that the sum 'n + m' is between 1 and 100.
• Ri to R 6 independently of each other, represent a C1-C 30 , particularly C1-C12, linear or branched saturated hydrocarbon radical, and particularly a methyl, ethyl, propyl or butyl radical.
• R-i to R 6 may be identical and, moreover, may be a methyl radical.
• R is a C1-C 30 alkyl radical, an aryl radical or an aralkyi radical
• - n is an integer varying from 0 to 100
• - m is an integer varying from 0 to 100, provided that the sum n+m varies from 1 to
• radicals R in formula (VIII) and Ri to R1 0 defined above each may represent a saturated or unsaturated linear or branched alkyl radical, particularly C2-C2 0 , in particular C 3 -Ci 6 and more particularly C4-C10, or a C 6 -Ci 4 , particularly C10-C13 mono- or polycyclic aryl radical or an aralkyi radical wherein the aryl and alkyl residues are as defined above.
• R according to formula (VIII) and R-i to R 10 may each represent a methyl, ethyl, propyl, isopropyl, decyl, dodecyl or octadecyl radical, or a phenyl, tolyl, benzyl or phenethyl radical.
• a phenylated silicone oil according to formula (VIII) having a viscosity at 25°C between 5 and 1500 mm 2 /s (i.e. 5 to 1500 cSt), preferably having a viscosity between 5 and 1000 mm 2 /s (i.e. 5 to 1000 cSt), may be used.
• phenyltrimethicones such as DC556 from Dow Corning (22.5 cSt), Silbione 70663V30 oil from Rhone Poulenc (28 cSt), or diphenyldimethicones such as Belsil oils, particularly Belsil PDM1000 (l OOOcSt), Belsil PDM 200 (200 cSt) and Belsil PDM 20 (20cSt) from Wacker, may be used.
• the values between brackets represent the viscosities at 25°C.
• Ri > 2, 5 and R 6 are, together or separately, an alkyl radical having 1 to 6 carbon atoms,
• R 3 and R 4 are, together or separately, an alkyl radical having 1 to 6 carbon atoms, or an aryl radical,
• X is an alkyl radical having 1 to 6 carbon atoms, a hydroxyl radical or a vinyl radical,
• n and p are chosen so as to give the oil a molecular weight less than 200,000 g/mol, preferably less than 150,000 g/mol and more preferably less than 100,000 g/mol.
• the phenylated silicones are more particularly chosen from phenyl trimethicones, phenyl dimethicones, phenyl trimethylsiloxy diphenylsiloxanes, diphenyl dimethicones, diphenyl methyldiphenyl trisiloxanes, and 2-phenylethyl trimethylsiloxysilicat.es, and mixtures thereof.
• the phenylated silicones are chosen from phenyl trimethicones, phenyl dimethicones, phenyl trimethylsiloxy diphenylsiloxanes, diphenyl dimethicones, diphenyl methyldiphenyl trisiloxanes, and 2-phenylethyl trimethylsiloxysilicat.es, and mixtures thereof.
• the molecular weight of the non-volatile phenylated silicone oil varies from 500 to 10,000 g/mol.
• phenylated silicone oils have been found to be particularly advantageous. They particularly confer a good level of luminance following application on the skin or lips with the composition according to the invention, without giving rise to a sticky sensation on the lips.
• the aqueous and oily compositions may comprise trimethylpentaphenyl trisiloxane, trimethylsiloxyphenyl dimethicone, trimethylsiloxylsilicate, nylon-61 1 and dimethicone copolymer and/or mixtures thereof.
• Solid fats
• wax refers to a lipophilic compound, which is solid at ambient temperature (25°C), having a reversible solid/liquid change of state and a melting point greater than or equal to 30°C of up to 200°C and particularly up to 120°C.
• the waxes suitable for the invention may have a melting point greater than or equal to 45°C, and particularly greater than or equal to 55°C.
• the melting point is equivalent to the temperature of the most endothermic peak observed in thermal analysis (DSC) as described in the standard ISO 1 1357-3; 1999.
• the melting point of the wax may be measured using a differential scanning calorimeter (DSC), for example the calorimeter sold under the name "DSC Q2000" by TA Instruments.
• the waxes have an enthalpy of fusion AHf greater than or equal to 70
• the waxes comprise at least one part suitable for crystallization, visible by means of X-ray observations.
• the measurement protocol is as follows:
• a 5 mg sample of wax placed in a crucible is subjected to a first temperature rise from -20°C to 120°C, at a heating rate of 10°C / minute, and is then cooled from 120°C to -20°C at a cooling rate of 10°C / minute and finally subjected to a second temperature rise from -20°C to 120°C at a heating rate of 5°C / minute.
• the following parameters are measured:
• T f the melting point of the wax
• - AHf the enthalpy of fusion of the wax equivalent to the integral of the overall fusion curve obtained. This enthalpy of fusion of the wax is the quantity of energy required to change the compound from the solid state to the liquid state. It is expressed in J/g.
• the waxes suitable for use in the compositions according to the invention are chosen from animal, plant, mineral or synthetic waxes, which are solid at ambient temperature, and mixtures thereof.
• waxes suitable for the invention particular mention may be made of hydrocarbon waxes such as beeswax, lanolin wax, and Chinese insect waxes, rice bran wax, Carnauba wax, Candellila wax, Ouricury wax, Alfa wax, berry wax, shellac wax, Japan wax and sumac wax; montan wax, orange and lemon waxes, microcrystalline waxes, paraffins and ozokerite; polyethylene waxes, waxes obtained by means of Fisher- Tropsch synthesis and waxy copolymers and the esters thereof.
• hydrocarbon waxes such as beeswax, lanolin wax, and Chinese insect waxes, rice bran wax, Carnauba wax, Candellila wax, Ouricury wax, Alfa wax, berry wax, shellac wax, Japan wax and sumac wax
• montan wax orange and lemon waxes
• microcrystalline waxes microcrystalline waxes
• paraffins and ozokerite polyethylene waxes
• waxes obtained by means of the catalytic hydrogenation of animal or plant oils having C 8 -C 32 linear or branched fat chains may also be made of waxes obtained by means of the catalytic hydrogenation of animal or plant oils having C 8 -C 32 linear or branched fat chains.
• isomerized jojoba oil such as the trans isomerized partially hydrogenated jojoba oil manufactured or sold by DESERT WHALE under the trade name lso-Jojoba-50 ® , hydrogenated sunflower oil, hydrogenated castor oil, hydrogenated coconut oil, hydrogenated lanolin oil, and di-(trimethylol-1 ,1 ,1 propane) tetrastearate sold under the name Hest 2T-4S ® by HETERENE.
• silicone waxes C 30 -4 5 ALKYL DIMETHICONE
• fluorinated waxes C 30 -4 5 ALKYL DIMETHICONE
• waxes obtained by hydrogenating esterified castor oil with cetyl alcohol sold under the names Phytowax ricin 16L64 ® and 22L73 ® by SOPHIM. Such waxes are described in the application FR-A- 2792190.
• C20-C40 alkyl (hydroxystearyloxy)stearate (the alkyl group comprising 20 to 40 carbon atoms), alone or in a mixture, may be used as the wax.
• Such a wax is particularly sold under the names “Kester Wax K 82 P ® ", “Hydroxypolyester K 82 P ®” and “Kester Wax K 80 P ® " by KOSTER KEUNEN.
• the wax is chosen in the group consisting of monocrystalline wax, acetylated lanolin, beeswax and mixtures thereof.
• the aqueous composition may also include any water-soluble or water-dispersible compound compatible with an aqueous phase, such as gelling agents, film-forming polymers, thickeners, surfactants and mixtures thereof.
• the aqueous composition may thus comprise at least one gelling agent.
• the gelling agent is chosen from aqueous phase gelling agents such as carbomers or gums such as xanthan gum or guar gum.
• the lipophilic gelling agents for the oily composition may be chosen from polymeric organic lipophilic gelling agents such as silicone gum or minerals such as bentone, and mixtures thereof.
• the oily composition may thus further comprise a lipophilic gelling agent or thickening agent.
• This agent may be mineral or organic, polymeric or non-polymeric.
• a mineral lipophilic gelling agent mention may be made for example of modified magnesium silicate (RHEOX Bentone gel VS38), hectorite modified with distearyl dimethyl ammonium chloride (CTFA name: Disteardimonium hectorite) marketed under the name "Bentone 38 CE" by RHEOX.
• a mineral lipophilic gelling agent By way of example of a mineral lipophilic gelling agent, mention may also be made of optionally modified clays such as hectorites modified by a Cio to C22 fatty acid ammonium chloride, such as hectorite modified with di-stearyl di-methyl ammonium such as, for example, that marketed under the name Bentone 38V® by ELEMENTIS.
• optionally modified clays such as hectorites modified by a Cio to C22 fatty acid ammonium chloride, such as hectorite modified with di-stearyl di-methyl ammonium such as, for example, that marketed under the name Bentone 38V® by ELEMENTIS.
• pyrogenic silica optionally with a hydrophobic surface treatment wherein the particle size is less than 1 ⁇ .
• a hydrophobic surface treatment wherein the particle size is less than 1 ⁇ .
• the silanol groups may particularly be substituted with hydrophobic groups: a hydrophobic silica is thus obtained.
• the hydrophobic groups may be:
• silica silylate As per the CTFA (6 th edition, 1995).
• Aerosil R812® by DEGUSSA
• CAB-O-SIL TS-530® by CABOT
• silica treated in this way are referred to as "Silica dimethyl silylate" as per the CTFA (6 th edition, 1995). They are for example sold under the references Aerosil R972®, and Aerosil R974® by DEGUSSA, CAB-O-SIL TS-610® and CAB-O-SIL TS-720® by CABOT.
• the hydrophobic pyrogenic silica particularly has a particle size that may be nanometric to micrometric, for example ranging from approximately 5 to 200 nm.
• An organic lipophilic gelling agent may be chosen from polymeric organic lipophilic gelling agents, such as for example:
• E-505C® and Trefil E-506C® by DOW-CORNING Gransil SR-CYC®, SR DMF10®, SR-DC556®, SR 5CYC gel®, SR DMF 10 gel® and SR DC 556 gel® by GRANT INDUSTRIES, SF 1204® and JK 1 13® by GENERAL ELECTRIC; ethylcellulose such as that sold under the name Ethocel® by DOW
• polyorganosiloxane type silicone polyamides such as those described in the documents US-A-5,874,069, US-A-5,919,441 , US-A-6,051 ,216 and US-A-5,981 ,680 such as, for example, those marketed under the reference Dow Corning 2-8179 Gellant by DOW CORNING;
• galactommanans comprising from one to six, and in particular from two to four, hydroxyl groups per sugar, substituted with an optionally saturated alkyl chain, such as guar gum alkylated with Ci to C 6 , and particularly Ci to C 3 alkyl chains, and mixtures thereof;
• block copolymers of the "diblock", “triblock” or “radial” type of the polystyrene/polyisoprene or polystyrene/polybutadiene type, such as those sold under the name Luvitol HSB ® by BASF, of the polystyrene/copoly(ethylene-propylene) type, such as those sold under the name Kraton ® by SHELL CHEMICAL CO or of the polystyrene/copoly(ethylene-butylene) type, mixtures of triblock and radial (star) copolymers in isododecane, such as those sold by PENRECO under the name Versagel ® for instance the mixture of butylene/ethylene/styrene triblock copolymer and of ethylene/propylene/styrene star copolymer in isododecane (Versagel M 5960).
• organic lipophilic gelling agents suitable for use in an oily composition according to the invention, mention may also be made of dextrin and fatty acid esters, such as dextrin palmitates, particularly such as those sold under the names Rheopearl TL® or Rheopearl KL® by CHIBA FLOUR.
• the oily composition comprises at least one lipophilic gelling agent chosen from the group consisting of disteardimonium hectorite, silica dimethyl silylate, dextrin palmitate, polyvinyl laurate, allyl stearate and vinyl acetate copolymer, and mixtures thereof.
• a lipophilic gelling agent chosen from the group consisting of disteardimonium hectorite, silica dimethyl silylate, dextrin palmitate, polyvinyl laurate, allyl stearate and vinyl acetate copolymer, and mixtures thereof.
• At least one of the aqueous and oily compositions comprises at least one pasty fat.
• the term "pasty fat” refers to a lipophilic fat compound having a reversible solid/liquid change of state and comprising at a temperature of 23°C a liquid fraction and a solid fraction.
• the initial melting point of the pasty compound may be less than 23°C.
• the liquid fraction of the pasty compound measured at 23°C may represent 9% to 97% by weight of the compound. This liquid fraction at 23°C preferably represents between 15% and 85%, more preferably between 40% and 85% by weight.
• the pasty fat has an ending melting point less than 60°C.
• the pasty fats have a hardness less than or equal to 6 MPa.
• the pasty fats exhibit, in the solid state, an anisotropic crystalline organization, visible by means of X-ray examinations.
• the melting point is equivalent to the temperature of the most endothermic peak observed in thermal analysis (DSC) as described in the standard ISO 1 1357-3; 1999.
• the melting point of a paste or a wax may be measured using a differential scanning calorimeter (DSC), for example the calorimeter sold under the name "DSC Q2000" by TA Instruments.
• sample preparation and measurement protocols are as follows:
• a 5 mg sample of pasty fat previously heated to 80°C and sampled under magnetic stirring using a spatula which has also been heated is placed in a sealed aluminum capsule or crucible. Two tests are conducted to ensure the reproducibility of the results.
• the measurements are made on the abovementioned calorimeter.
• the oven is subject to nitrogen scavenging. Cooling is carried out by the RCS 90 heat exchanger.
• the sample is then subjected to the following protocol after stabilizing at a temperature of 20°C, and subjected to a first temperature rise from 20°C to 80°C, at a heating rate of 5°C/minute, and is then cooled from 80°C to -80°C at a cooling rate of 5°C/minute and finally subjected to a second temperature rise from -80°C to 80°C at a heating rate of 5°C/minute.
• the variation in the difference in power absorbed by the empty crucible and by the crucible containing the paste or wax sample as a function of temperature is measured.
• the melting point of the compound is the value of the temperature equivalent to the top point of the peak of the curve representing the variation in the difference in power absorbed as a function of temperature.
• the ending melting point is equivalent to the temperature at which 95% of the sample has melted.
• the liquid fraction by weight of the pasty compound at 23°C is equal to the ratio of the enthalpy of fusion consumed at 23°C to the enthalpy of fusion of the pasty compound.
• the enthalpy of fusion of the pasty compound is the enthalpy consumed by the compound to change from the solid state to the liquid state.
• the pasty compound is said to be in the solid state when the entire mass thereof is in solid crystalline form.
• the pasty compound is said to be in the liquid state when the entire mass thereof is in liquid form.
• the enthalpy of fusion of the pasty compound is equal to the integral of the overall fusion curve obtained using the abovementioned calorimeter, with a temperature rise of 5 or 10°C per minute, according to the ISO 1 1357-3:1999 standard.
• the enthalpy of fusion of the pasty compound is the quantity of energy required to change the compound from the solid state to the liquid state. It is expressed in J/g.
• the enthalpy of fusion consumed at 23°C is the quantity of energy required by the sample to change from the solid state to the state presented at 23°C consisting of a liquid fraction and a solid fraction.
• the liquid fraction of the pasty compound measured at 32°C preferably represents 30 to 100% by weight of the compound, preferably 50 to 100%, more preferably 60 to 100% by weight of the compound. If the liquid fraction of the pasty compound measured at 32°C is equal to 100%, the temperature of the end of the melting range of the pasty compound is less than or equal to 32°C.
• the liquid fraction of the pasty compound at 32°C is equal to the ratio of the enthalpy of fusion consumed at 32 °C to the enthalpy of fusion of the pasty compound.
• the enthalpy of fusion consumed at 32°C is calculated as for the enthalpy of fusion consumed at 23°C.
• sample preparation and measurement protocols are as follows:
• the pasty fat is placed in a 75mm diameter mold filled to approximately 75% of the height thereof. So as not to be subject to the thermal history and to control crystallization, the mold is placed in a Votsch VC0018 programmable chamber where it is first set to a temperature of 80°C for 60 minutes, and then cooled from 80°C to 0°C at a cooling rate of 5°C/minute, and then left at the stabilized temperature of 0°C for 60 minutes, and subjected to a temperature rise from 0°C to 20°C, at a heating rate of 5°C/minute, and then left at the stabilized temperature of 20°C for 180 minutes.
• the compression force measurement is made with the Swantech TA/TX2i texture analyzer.
• the moving body used is chosen according to the texture:
• the measurement comprises 3 steps: a first step after automatic detection of the surface of the sample on which the moving body moves at a measurement speed of 0.1 mm/s, and enters the pasty fat at a penetration depth of 0.3 mm, the software records the maximum force value reached; a second "relaxation” step wherein the moving body remains in this position for one second and wherein the force is recorded after 1 second of relaxation; finally, a 3 rd “withdrawal” step wherein the moving body returns to the initial position thereof at a speed of 1 mm/s and the probe withdrawal energy (negative force) is recorded.
• the hardness value measured in the first step is equivalent to the maximum compression force measured in Newton divided by the surface area of the texture analyzer cylinder expressed in mm2 in contact with the pasty fat.
• the hardness value obtained is expressed in megaPascal or MPa.
• the pasty compound is chosen from synthetic compounds and plant-based compounds.
• a pasty compound may be obtained by means of synthesis from plant-based starting materials.
• polyol ethers chosen from pentaerythritol ethers and polyalkylene glycol, fatty alcohol and sugar ethers, and mixtures thereof; pentaerythritol ether and polyethylene glycol comprising 5 oxyethylenated units (5 OE) (CTFA name: PEG-5 Pentaerythrityl Ether), pentaerythritol and polypropylene glycol ether comprising 5 oxypropylenated units (5 OP) (CTFA name: PPG-5 Pentaerythrityl Ether), and the mixtures thereof and more specifically the mixture of PEG-5 Pentaerythrityl Ether, PPG-5 Pentaerythrityl Ether and soybean oil, sold under the name "Lanolide” by Vevy, wherein the ratio of the constituents by weight is 46:46:8: 46% PEG-5 Pentaerythrityl Ether, 46% PPG-5 Pentaerythrityl Ether and 8%
• liposoluble polyethers derived from polyetherification between one or a plurality of C2-C100, preferably C2-C50, diols,
• ethylene-oxide and/or propylene-oxide copolymers with C6-C30 long-chain alkylene-oxides are particularly preferred, more preferably such that the weight ratio of ethylene-oxide and/or propylene-oxide with alkylene-oxides in the copolymer is 5:95 to 70:30.
• copolymers such as long-chain alkylene-oxides arranged in blocks having a mean molecular weight of 1000 to 10,000, for example a polyoxyethylene/polydodecyl glycol block copolymer such as the dodecanediol (22 mol) and polyethylene glycol (45 OE) ethers marketed under the brand ELFACOS ST9 by Akzo Nobel.
• glycerol oligomer esters namely diglycerol esters, particularly adipic acid and glycerol condensates, for which part of the hydroxyl groups of the glycerols have reacted with a mixture of fatty acids such as stearic acid, capric, stearic acid and isostearic acid and 12-hydroxystearic acid, particularly such as those sold under the brand Softisan 649 by Sasol,
• triglycerides of fatty acids and derivatives thereof such as for example, the partially or totally hydrogenated, particularly Ci 0 - Ci 8 , fatty acid triglycerides such as those sold under the reference Softisan 100 by Sasol,
• polyesters derived from polycondensation between dicarboxylic acid or a C 4 -C 50 linear or branched carboxylic acid and a diol or a C 2 -C 50 polyol,
• the aliphatic carboxylic acid comprises 4 to 30 and preferably 8 to 30 carbon atoms.
• the aliphatic carboxylic acid is preferably branched.
• the aliphatic hydroxy carboxylic acid ester is advantageously derived from a hydroxylated aliphatic carboxylic acid comprising 2 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably 10 to 34 carbon atoms and more preferably 12 to 28 carbon atoms, and 1 to 20 hydroxyl groups, preferably 1 to 10 hydroxyl groups and more preferably 1 to 6 hydroxyl groups.
• the aliphatic hydroxy carboxylic acid ester is chosen from:
• esters may particularly be chosen from esters having the following I NCI classification: bis-behenyl/isostearyl/phytosteryl dimerdilinoleyl dimerdilinoleate (Plandool G), phytosteryl/isosteryl/cetyl/stearyl/behenyl dimerdilinoleate (Plandool H or Plandool S), and mixtures thereof.
• hydrogenated rosinate esters such as dimer dilinoleyl hydrogenated rosinates (Lusplan DD-DHR or DD-DHR from Nippon Fine Chemical)
• the aqueous and oily compositions according to the invention may comprise at least one pasty fat chosen from triglycerides of fatty acids and derivatives thereof, preferably chosen from the examples of partially or totally hydrogenated fatty acid triglycerides, particularly C 10 - C 18 , such as those marketed under the reference Softisan 100 by Sasol.
• at least one pasty fat chosen from triglycerides of fatty acids and derivatives thereof, preferably chosen from the examples of partially or totally hydrogenated fatty acid triglycerides, particularly C 10 - C 18 , such as those marketed under the reference Softisan 100 by Sasol.
• the pasty fat is chosen from lanolin and the derivatives thereof, glycerol oligomer esters such as bis-diglyceryl polyacyladipate-2.
• the aqueous and oily compositions may further comprise at least one active agent.
• the aqueous and oily compositions may further comprise at least one surfactant.
• the aqueous and oily compositions may further comprise at least one preservative.
• the aqueous and oily compositions may further comprise at least one filling agent.
• the aqueous and oily compositions may further comprise one or a plurality of perfume(s) and/or vitamin(s).
• the surfactants may be amphoteric, anionic, cationic or non-ionic, used alone or in a mixture.
• hydrocarbon surfactants By way of example of hydrocarbon surfactants, mention may be made of polyol polyesters such as PEG-30 dipolyhydroxystearate sold under the reference ARLACEL P 135 by Uniqema, polyglyceryl-2 dipolyhydroxystearate sold under the reference DEHYMULS PGPH by Cognis.
• silicone surfactants By way of example of silicone surfactants, mention may be made of alkyl- dimethicone copolyols such as Laurylmethicone copolyol sold under the name "Dow Corning 5200 Formulation Aid” by Dow Corning and Cetyl dimethicone copolyol sold under the name ABIL EM 90 by Goldschmidt, or the polyglyceryl-4 isostearate/cetyl dimethicone copolyol/hexyllaurate mixture sold under the name ABIL WE 09 by Goldschmidt.
• alkyl- dimethicone copolyols such as Laurylmethicone copolyol sold under the name "Dow Corning 5200 Formulation Aid” by Dow Corning and Cetyl dimethicone copolyol sold under the name ABIL EM 90 by Goldschmidt
• ABIL WE 09 the polyglyceryl-4 isostearate/cetyl dimethicone copolyo
• co-emulsifiers may also be added.
• the co- emulsifiers may be chosen in the group comprising alkylated polyol esters.
• alkylated polyol esters particular mention may be made of glycerol and/or sorbitan esters and for example polyglyceryl-3 diisostearate sold under the name LAMEFORM TGI by Cognis, polyglycerol-4 isostearate, such as the product sold under the name Isolan Gl 34 by Goldschmidt, sorbitan isostearate, such as the product sold under the name Arlacel 987 by I CI , sorbitan and glycerol isostearate, such as the product sold under the name Arlacel 986 by I CI , and mixtures thereof.
• the surfactants according to the invention are more particularly chosen in the group consisting of PPG-5 lanolin wax, C 3 o-C 5 o alcohols, sorbitan stearate, sucrose cocoate and/or polyglyceryl-4-isostearate.
• the aqueous and oily compositions may comprise preservatives, particularly chosen from phenoxyethanol, pentylene glycol, and mixtures thereof. .
• At least one of the aqueous or oily compositions comprises at least one filler, preferably from 0.1 % to 30% by weight with respect to the total weight of the aqueous composition.
• matting filters are used.
• At least one of the aqueous or oily compositions comprises at least one filler, preferably from 0.1 % to 30% by weight with respect to the total weight of the oily composition.
• fillers refers to mineral or synthetic particles of any shape, insoluble in the medium of the composition regardless of the temperature at which the composition is manufactured. These fillers may particularly be used to modify the rheology or texture of the composition.
• the fillers may be mineral or organic particles of any shape, in sheet, spherical or oblong form, regardless of the crystallographic shape (for example sheet, cubic, hexagonal, orthorhombic, etc). Mention may be made of talc, mica, silica, kaolin, polyamide (Nylon®) (Orgasol® from Atochem), poly- -alanine and polyethylene powders, tetrafluoroethylene polymer powders (Teflon®), lauroyl-lysine, starch, boron nitride, polymeric hollow microspheres such as those of polyvinylidene chloride/acrylonitrile like Expancel® (Nobel Industrie), acrylic acid copolymers (Polytrap® from Dow Corning) and silicone resin microbeads (Tospearls® from Toshiba, for example), elastomer polyorganosiloxane particles, precipitated calcium carbonate, magnesium carbonate and hydro-carbonate, hydroxyapatite,
• aqueous or oily compositions according to the invention may also comprise at least one gelling/structuring polymer chosen from xanthan gum, carbomers, polyvinyl laurate, allyl stearate and vinyl acetate copolymer, dextrin palmitate, polybutene, ethylcellulose and hydroxypropylguar.
• gelling/structuring polymer chosen from xanthan gum, carbomers, polyvinyl laurate, allyl stearate and vinyl acetate copolymer, dextrin palmitate, polybutene, ethylcellulose and hydroxypropylguar.
• aqueous or oily compositions according to the invention may particularly come in the form of a liquid, gel, cream or paste.
• the compositions according to the invention are thick, preferably with a viscosity greater than 0.5 Pa.s, according to the protocol described above.
• the compositions according to the invention are quick-drying, i.e. including quick-drying volatile solvents in a thin layer as applied over a 10 ⁇ thickness, the viscosity thereof is multiplied by 4 in 5 min.
• they may contain solvents for which the boiling point ⁇ 160°C and/or compounds chosen from volatile linear alkanes, such as C1 1-C13 compounds, isododecane, C2-C4 monoalcohols such as ethanol, and mixtures thereof.
• the cosmetic product according to the invention is preferentially intended to be applied on a user's lips by means of a cosmetic product applicator.
• This applicator comprises an application surface for receiving the cosmetic product.
• this applicator comprises an application surface (16) having a central region (22) and a peripheral line (24) having a contour analogous to the contour of human lips, the central region (22) and the peripheral line (24) being intended to receive the cosmetic product.
• FIG. 1 is a front view of a cosmetic product applicator according to the invention.
• figure 2 is a cross-section view according to the transverse plane II of figure 1 ;
• FIG. 3 is a front view of lips 55 on which a cosmetic product applicator according to the invention having a different-colored pattern 60 to the color applied on the rest of the lips has been applied according to the invention.
• a particular cosmetic product applicator 10 according to the invention is shown in figures 1 and 2.
• This applicator 10 is intended to apply the cosmetic product on the lips of a user, according to the contour of the lips.
• the applicator 10 comprises a body 14 defining a surface 16 for application of the cosmetic product on the lips.
• the surface 16 is advantageously defined in a cavity 18 of the body 16 with a shape complementary to that of the lips of a user.
• the application surface 16 preferably includes a hollow central region 22 and a peripheral line 24 having a shape matching the contour of human lips.
• the peripheral line 24 is equipped with preferred means 26 for applying cosmetic product on the lips of the user.
• the user brings the application surface 16 into contact with the lips.
• the user inserts the lips in the concave spaces 28A, 28B, respectively.
• the present invention relates to an applicator (10) of at least one cosmetic product on a user's lips, of the type comprising an application surface (16), with a shape analogous to that of human lips, said application surface being intended to receive a cosmetic product,
• said cosmetic product comprising:
• said aqueous composition containing at least 20% by weight of water with respect to the total weight of said aqueous composition
• said oily composition containing less than 5% by weight of water with respect to the total weight of said oily composition.
• At least one of the aqueous or oily compositions is not a water-in-oil emulsion.
• the abovementioned cosmetic product is as defined above.
• this applicator application surface (16) has a central region (22) and a peripheral line (24) having a contour analogous to the contour of a user's lips (22) and a peripheral line (24) for receiving the cosmetic product.
• one of the two aqueous or oily compositions is in the central region of the application surface and the other composition is on the peripheral line of the application surface.
• the application surface may have compartments separated by membranes or having different surface treatments.
• these compartments are characterized by different surface treatments, obtained by depositing coatings having different surface tensions on the applicator surface.
• These coatings may for example be chosen from: a hydrophilic surface such as metallic surface.
• hydrophobic surface such as a surface coated with a hydrophobic polymer such as a reactive silicone, for example.
• the applicator application surface may comprise a plurality of orifices or pores communicating with one or a plurality of cosmetic product receptacles.
• compositions are then deposited by contact, by producing an imprint on the user's lips. This, in conjunction with the formulation rules to be followed, makes it possible to obtain lip colors and appearances which are resistant to blotting and over time.
• Blotting refers to slight pinching of the top and bottom lips together, in order to homogenize the quantity of product deposited thereon. Blotting may be produced immediately after applying the cosmetic product.
• the cosmetic product is applied on the application surface manually or by means of a suitable applicator tool.
• the applicator tool may comprise one or a plurality of compartment(s), preferably one or two compartment(s) suitable for dispensing the aqueous and/or oily compositions simultaneously or in two stages.
• the applicator tool may comprise a plurality of compartments and means for choosing one and/or two aqueous and/or oily compositions to be deposited on the applicator.
• the applicator comprises one or a plurality of receptacle(s) comprising one or a plurality of aqueous and/or oily composition(s).
• the applicator comprises two receptacles each comprising one composition, one aqueous, the other oily.
• the receptacles are flexible and the compositions may be released by pressing on the receptacle(s), for example from pores present on the application surface and may thus be applied on the lips.
• the applicator comprises one or a plurality of compositions, preferably two compositions.
• the compositions are not or barely deposited on the application surface.
• additional stimulus such as the application of an aqueous or organic liquid or by applying heat, the compositions become capable of being applied on the lips in case of contact with said lips.
• the aqueous and/or oily compositions may be in liquid form.
• composition(s) it is thus possible to apply the composition(s) to be applied on the lips with a brush, cotton bud or finger on the application surface and the applicator is then brought into contact with the lips, light pressure is applied so that the composition(s) is/are applied on the lips and the applicator is removed.
• the compositions may be contained in one or a plurality of flexible receptacles situated at the rear of the applicator.
• the compositions may be released on the surface of the applicator by pressing on the receptacle(s).
• the aqueous and/or oily compositions may be in stick form.
• compositions may be applied by rubbing on the applicator application surface.
• the stick may be situated at the rear of the applicator.
• the applicator may be heating to change stick compositions to liquid form and enable surface exudation by rotating the stick.
• the aqueous and/or oily compositions may be in paste form.
• compositions may be contained in a syringe and mechanically extruded by pressing on the syringe plunger toward the applicator surface.
• the present invention also relates to the non-therapeutic cosmetic use for lip makeup of the kit or applicator as defined above.
• the present invention relates to a non-therapeutic cosmetic treatment method for lip makeup comprising:
• the present invention also relates to a non-therapeutic cosmetic treatment method for lip makeup comprising:
• aqueous and oily compositions according to the invention were prepared using a standard procedure for those skilled in the art.
• composition pairings were then applied on the applicator as mentioned above.
• composition pairings were then applied on the applicator as mentioned above using cotton buds or brushes.
• the applicator was then deposited on a user's lips without delay.
• transfer refers to the application of the two compositions on the user's lips.
• the transfer is poor if it causes the colors to mix (hereinafter referred to as "poor transfer").
• the transfer is good when the colors do not mix (hereinafter referred to as "good transfer").
• good blotting resistance After blotting, if the colors do not mix, the result is satisfactory (hereinafter referred to as "good blotting resistance").
• Aqueous composition 1 Aqueous composition 1
• Viscosity 0.34 Pa.s according to the measurement protocol described above.
• the aqueous ethylcellulose dispersion is mixed in the non-volatile oil under stirring and heated for 1 hr to 2 hrs at 55°C.
• Viscosity 1.4 Pa.s according to the measurement protocol described above.
• Oily composition 3 (stick)
• the pigments are dispersed in Liquiwax and part of the silicone oil.
• the remainder of the liposoluble ingredients and the waxes are mixed at a temperature of 100°C and the ground product and the remainder of the silicone oil phase are then added. The whole is mixed at a temperature of 100°C until a very homogeneous mixture is obtained.
• the composition may be cast in a mold to produce the shape of an 1 1 .06 mm diameter stick.
• Viscosity ND (not determined for a stick. Viscosity >50 Pa.s on such a stick composition, previously heated to render the texture measurable).
• Oily composition 2 (stick)
• Vitamin Tocopherol acetate 0,55
• Viscosity ND (not determined for a stick. Viscosity >50 Pa.s on such a stick composition, previously heated to render the texture measurable).
• This stick is prepared using a conventional protocol, similar to that described in the previous example.
• the aqueous composition is composition 1 from example 1.
• the oily composition is composition 3 from example 2.
• the aqueous composition is composition 1 from example 1.
• oily composition is the following composition 4: Oily composition 4
• Viscosity approximately 12 Pa.s according to the measurement protocol described
• the oily composition is composition 3 from example 2.
• the aqueous composition is composition 5 from example 1. • By applying the two compositions mentioned above on the applicator, and applying said applicator on the lips, good transfer and very good blotting resistance were obtained.
• the aqueous composition is composition 5 from example 1.
• the oily composition is composition 4 from example 4.
• the aqueous composition is composition 5 from example 1.
• the oily composition is composition 2 from example 2.

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• 2011
  • 2011-12-22 FR FR1162276A patent/FR2984698B1/fr active Active
• 2012
  • 2012-12-19 BR BR112014015546-1A patent/BR112014015546B1/pt active IP Right Grant
  • 2012-12-19 CN CN201280064158.4A patent/CN104010545B/zh active Active
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