Classifications

• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
  • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
  • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
  • A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
  • A61K8/81—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions involving only carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds
  • A61K8/8141—Compositions of homopolymers or copolymers of compounds having one or more unsaturated aliphatic radicals, each having only one carbon-to-carbon double bond, and at least one being terminated by only one carboxyl radical, or of salts, anhydrides, esters, amides, imides or nitriles thereof; Compositions of derivatives of such polymers
  • A61K8/8158—Homopolymers or copolymers of amides or imides, e.g. (meth) acrylamide; Compositions of derivatives of such polymers
• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
  • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
  • A61K8/02—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by special physical form
  • A61K8/04—Dispersions; Emulsions
  • A61K8/06—Emulsions
  • A61K8/062—Oil-in-water emulsions
• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
  • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
  • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
  • A61K8/19—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing inorganic ingredients
  • A61K8/20—Halogens; Compounds thereof
• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
  • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
  • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
  • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
  • A61K8/33—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
  • A61K8/37—Esters of carboxylic acids
• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
  • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
  • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
  • A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
  • A61K8/73—Polysaccharides
  • A61K8/737—Galactomannans, e.g. guar; Derivatives thereof
• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
  • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
  • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
  • A61K8/92—Oils, fats or waxes; Derivatives thereof, e.g. hydrogenation products thereof
  • A61K8/922—Oils, fats or waxes; Derivatives thereof, e.g. hydrogenation products thereof of vegetable origin
• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
  • A61Q19/00—Preparations for care of the skin
• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
  • A61Q19/00—Preparations for care of the skin
  • A61Q19/10—Washing or bathing preparations
• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
  • A61Q5/00—Preparations for care of the hair
• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
  • A61Q5/00—Preparations for care of the hair
  • A61Q5/02—Preparations for cleaning the hair
• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
  • A61K2800/00—Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
  • A61K2800/10—General cosmetic use
• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
  • A61K2800/00—Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
  • A61K2800/20—Chemical, physico-chemical or functional or structural properties of the composition as a whole
  • A61K2800/30—Characterized by the absence of a particular group of ingredients
• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
  • A61K2800/00—Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
  • A61K2800/40—Chemical, physico-chemical or functional or structural properties of particular ingredients
  • A61K2800/48—Thickener, Thickening system
• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
  • A61K2800/00—Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
  • A61K2800/40—Chemical, physico-chemical or functional or structural properties of particular ingredients
  • A61K2800/54—Polymers characterized by specific structures/properties
  • A61K2800/542—Polymers characterized by specific structures/properties characterized by the charge
  • A61K2800/5424—Polymers characterized by specific structures/properties characterized by the charge anionic
• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
  • A61K2800/00—Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
  • A61K2800/70—Biological properties of the composition as a whole
  • A61K2800/72—Hypo-allergenic
• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
  • A61Q17/00—Barrier preparations; Preparations brought into direct contact with the skin for affording protection against external influences, e.g. sunlight, X-rays or other harmful rays, corrosive materials, bacteria or insect stings
  • A61Q17/04—Topical preparations for affording protection against sunlight or other radiation; Topical sun tanning preparations

Definitions

• the invention relates to new oil-in-water emulsions, as well as their uses in cosmetics and pharmaceuticals.
• Cosmetic compositions in the form of oil-in-water emulsions sold by the cosmetics industry and by the pharmaceutical industry very regularly comprise synthetic thickening polymers for increasing the viscosity of said oil-in-water emulsions which may present in the form of creams, milks, and which are applied directly to the skin.
• the synthetic thickening polymers currently used in these fields come in two physical forms, the powder form and the liquid form for which the polymer is prepared by radical polymerization in inverse emulsion with the aid of surfactants, and which commonly called reverse latex.
• polymers based on acrylic acid or copolymers based on acrylic acid and its esters For example, polymers marketed under the brand name CARBOPOL TM and PEMULEN TM. They are described in particular in US Patents 5,373,044, US 2,798,053 and in European Patent EP 0 301 532.
• thickeners appearing in the form of inverse latex and especially those marketed by the plaintiff.
• thickeners Sepigel TM 305, Simulgel TM 600, Simulgel TM EG, Simulgel TM EPG, Simulgel TM NS, Simulgel TM A, Sepiplus TM 400, Sepiplus TM 250 and Sepiplus TM 265 are available.
• radical polymerization in inverse emulsion They have the advantage of being more easily manipulated, especially at room temperature, and disperse very quickly in water.
• these products develop remarkably high thickening performance; these performances are probably the consequence of the process used for their preparation, a radical polymerization reaction in dispersed phase, which leads to polymers of very high molecular weight.
• these synthetic thickeners in the form of inverse latex contain an oil, and one or more surfactants which can sometimes induce cutaneous intolerance reactions on particularly sensitive subjects; moreover, this presence of oil makes them unusable for the preparation of clear aqueous gels.
• the Applicant has therefore developed synthetic thickeners having the thickening performance equivalent to or greater than the inverse latex, but better tolerated by the skin, in particular because of the absence of any oil phase that can lead to lighter aqueous gels.
• These products are in the form of powder but have dissolution times, and thus ease of implementation, comparable to those of products in the form of liquids.
• These compounds described in the European patent application published under the number EP 1 496 081, are obtained by conventional polymerization techniques, such as free-radical phase polymerization, inverse suspension radical polymerization, inverse emulsion radical polymerization. or in reverse microemulsion.
• the synthetic thickening systems obtained are then extracted and purified by various techniques such as precipitation in a third solvent, precipitation in a third solvent optionally followed by washing, spray-drying or by azeotropic dehydration, optionally followed by washing with a carefully chosen solvent.
• These synthetic thickeners therefore combine some of the advantages of synthetic thickeners in the form of conventional powders (absence of oil, obtaining lighter aqueous gels) and the advantages of synthetic thickeners in the form of inverse latex (high speed dissolution, thickening power and remarkable stabilizing properties).
• the customers using such synthetic thickening systems wish to be able to manufacture even more clear gels, than those obtained today, see transparent gels.
• the gels obtained with these synthetic thickeners do not have a satisfactory stability when the composition is rich in electrolytes as is often the case for compositions comprising sunscreens and / or colored pigments and / or plant extracts. rich in electrolytes.
• R 1 represents a hydrogen atom or a methyl radical
• R represents a linear or branched alkyl radical having from eight to thirty carbon atoms
• n represents a number greater than or equal to one and less than or equal to fifty.
• R represents a linear or branched alkyl radical having from eight to twenty carbon atoms and n represents a number greater than or equal to one and less than or equal to thirty.
• the cosmetics and pharmacy industries are also looking for galenic forms reducing the risk of cutaneous intolerances, and consequently tend to select constitutive ingredients of said galenic forms which are well tolerated and also to be imi ued in their incorporation, the share of ingredients likely to increase the probability of intolerance reactions on the skin.
• the cosmetic and pharmaceutical industries are seeking to develop oil-in-oil emulsions. water which are free of stabilizing systems comprising emulsifying surfactants.
• the terpolymers described in the international application published under the number WO 201 1/030044 are therefore ideal candidates for preparing oil-in-water emulsions free of emulsifying surfactants.
• oil-in-water emulsions are prepared by the implementation of such synthetic thickening terpolymers in the absence of emulsifying surfactants, the appearance of clusters in said oil-in-water emulsions free of surfactants is observed.
• emulsifying agents when stored over time. It is therefore necessary to develop new oil-in-water emulsions, free of emulsifying surfactants, which do not exhibit during their storage long storage clusters, but which retain a high viscosity in the presence of electrolyte-rich media and over a wide pH range, as well as satisfactory sensory properties, i.e. free of stickiness and spinning when gripped and after application to the skin.
• Polysaccharides have been used for many years as modifiers for texture and / or rheology for the preparation of food, cosmetic or pharmaceutical compositions. Depending on their chemical constitution, they can be used as gelling agents and / or thickeners.
• thickening agent is meant a chemical compound which increases the viscosity of the medium in which it is introduced.
• gelling agent is meant a compound that converts a liquid medium into a structured state, which does not flow, by forming a three-dimensional network within the liquid; the gel being considered as an intermediate state between the liquid state and the solid state.
• Polysaccharides are saccharide polymers.
• the IUPAC definition of saccharides refers to monosaccharides, to compounds of oste proper and their derivatives obtained either by reduction of a carbonyl group, or by oxidation of one or more hydroxyl functions, or by the replacement of one or more functions. hydroxyl by a hydrogen atom, an amino group, a phosphate function, a sulfate function.
• the polysaccharides most commonly used for the preparation of food compositions, cosmetic or pharmaceutical are mainly constituted by dares, such as glucose, galactose, mannose or derivatives of dares for which the hydroxyl function of the terminal carbon has been oxidized to carboxyl.
• dares such as glucose, galactose, mannose or derivatives of dares for which the hydroxyl function of the terminal carbon has been oxidized to carboxyl.
• two distinct groups can be distinguished: polysaccharides consisting solely of dares (or polyoses) and polysaccharides consisting of derivatives of dares.
• glucans which are homopolymers of glucose very abundant in nature
• glucomannoglycans xyloglycans
• galactomannans which are polymers whose main chain consists of D-mannose units, linked together in ⁇ -1, 4, and on which units of D-galactose are grafted laterally by bonds a-1, 6.
• Galactomannans are present in most plant species, and are particularly common in the leguminous species in which they constitute the albumen of seeds.
• the degree of substitution (DS) of D-galactose units on the main D-mannose chain of galactomannans varies between 0 and 1: galactomannans from cassia gum have a degree of substitution (DS ) about 1/5, signifying the lateral grafting of a unit of D-galactose every 5 units of D-mannose present on the main chain of the polysaccharide
• galactomannans derived from locust bean gum have a degree of substitution (DS) of approximately 1/4, signifying the lateral grafting of one unit of D-galactose every 4 units of D-mannose present on the main chain of the polysaccharide
• galactomannans from tassel gum have a degree of substitution (DS) of about 1/3, signifying lateral grafting of one unit of D-galactose every 3 units of D-mannose present on the main chain of the polysaccharide
• the galactomannans from guar gum have a degree of substitution (DS) of about 1/2, signifying the lateral grafting of one unit of D-galactose every 2 units of D-mannose present on the main chain of the polysaccharide
• galactomannans derived from fenugreek gum have a degree of substitution (DS) of about 1/1, signifying the lateral grafting of a unit of D-galactose so that all the D-man nos are present on the main chain of the polysaccharide.
• DS degree of substitution
• galactomannans As a sub-category of polysaccharides, galactomannans have already been associated with synthetic thickeners resulting from the radical polymerization of monomers such as acrylic acid, esters of acrylic acid, 2-acrylamido-2-methyl acid. propanesulfonic acid and / or its salts, acrylamide, (2-hydroxyethyl) acrylate.
• US Patent No. 4, 540, 510 discloses the preparation of gels which use 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid and galactomannan hydroxymers, such as those derived from guar gum and tara gum.
• the aqueous gels that are obtained and used for applications in the field of fracturing of underground cavities, or the preparation of pigment pastes for printing on textile, or suspension of pigment in paints, or in the
• the preparation of cosmetic formulations comprising alcohols as cosolvents does not make it possible to reach sufficient viscosity levels to allow the preparation of oil-in-water emulsions which are rich in electrolytes and stable in storage.
• the French patent application published under the number 2 940 11 1 describes the use of compositions comprising polysaccharides, which can be combined with hydrophilic gelling agents chosen in particular from copolymers comprising 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid and acrylamide as constituent monomers, or comprising 2-acrylamido-2-methyl propanesulfonic acid and polyoxyethylenated alkyl methacrylates.
• hydrophilic gelling agents described in the French patent application published under the number 2 940 11 1 are known not to allow to achieve high levels of viscosity in the presence of electrolyte-rich media.
• EP 0 152 095 A1 The European patent application published under the number EP 0 152 095 A1 describes compositions comprising homopolymers of 2-acrylamido-2-methyl propanesulfonic acid or of 2-methacrylamido-2-methyl propanesulfonic acid, galactomannans, and their uses. as thickeners for aqueous or alcoholic media, in petroleum drilling applications, in the preparation of printing pastes for textiles, and in the preparation of cosmetic compositions comprising alcohols.
• the inventors have therefore sought to develop new oil-in-water emulsions, free of emulsifying surfactants in their stabilizing system, rich in salts, maintaining a high viscosity and a homogeneous appearance after a prolonged storage period.
• the subject of the invention is a composition (Ci) in the form of an oil-in-water type emulsion, characterized in that it comprises for 100% of its mass :
• a fatty phase consisting of at least one oil and optionally from less a wax
• PA crosslinked anionic polyelectrolyte
• R represents a linear or branched alkyl radical comprising from eight to twenty carbon atoms and n represents a number greater than or equal to one and less than or equal to twenty, in the presence of at least one crosslinking agent,
• a cosmetically acceptable aqueous phase P 2
• said aqueous phase (P 2 ) comprising for 100% of its mass from 1% to 25% by weight, more particularly from 1.5% to 15% by weight of at least one salt (S) in dissolved form
• composition (Ci) being further characterized in that the mass ratio between the galactomannan (GM) and the crosslinked anionic polyelectrolyte (PA) is greater than or equal to 1/3 and less than or equal to 3/1, more particularly greater or equal to 1/2 and less than or equal to 3/2, and even more particularly greater than or equal to 2/3 and less than or equal to 1
• GM galactomannan
• PA crosslinked anionic polyelectrolyte
• oil is meant in the definition of the composition (Ci) object of this invention, a compound and / or a mixture of compounds insoluble in water, and liquid at 25 ° C, such as that chosen in particular from:
• Mineral oils such as paraffin oil, liquid petrolatum, isoparaffins or mineral white oils
• oils of animal origin such as squalene or squalane
• oils such as phytosqualane, sweet almond oil, coconut oil, castor oil, jojoba oil, olive oil, rapeseed oil, peanut oil, sunflower oil, wheat germ oil, corn germ oil, soybean oil, cottonseed oil, alfalfa oil, coconut oil poppy oil, pumpkin oil, evening primrose oil, millet oil, barley oil, rye oil, safflower oil, passionflower, hazelnut oil, palm oil, shea butter, apricot kernel oil, calophyllum oil, sysymbrium oil, avocado oil, oil calendula, oils derived from flowers or vegetables;
• phytosqualane such as phytosqualane, sweet almond oil, coconut oil, castor oil, jojoba oil, olive oil, rapeseed oil, peanut oil, sunflower oil, wheat germ oil, corn germ oil, soybean oil, cottonseed oil, alfalfa oil, coconut oil poppy oil, pumpkin oil, evening primrose oil, millet oil, barley oil, rye oil, s
• fatty acid esters such as butyl myristate, propyl myristate, cetyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, butyl stearate, hexadecyl stearate, isopropyl stearate octyl stearate, isocetyl stearate, dodecyl oleate, hexyl laurate, propylene glycol dicaprylate, esters derived from lanolic acid, such as isopropyl lanolate, isocetyl lanolate , monoglycerides, diglycerides and triglycerides of fatty acids such as glycerol triheptanoate, alkylbenzoates, hydrogenated oils, poly (alpha-olefin), polyolefins such as poly (isobutane), synthetic isoalkanes such as isohexa
• Silicone oils such as dimethylpolysiloxanes, methylphenylpolysiloxanes, amine-modified silicones, silicones modified with fatty acids, silicones modified with alcohols, silicones modified with alcohols and fatty acids, modified silicones by polyether groups, modified epoxy silicones, silicones modified with fluorinated groups, cyclic silicones and silicones modified with alkyl groups.
• wax in the definition of the composition (Ci) which is the subject of the present invention, is meant, in particular, beeswax, carnauba wax, candelilla wax, ouricoury wax, Japanese wax, cork fiber wax, sugar cane wax, paraffin waxes, lignite waxes, microcrystalline waxes, lanolin wax; ozokerite; polyethylene wax; silicone waxes; vegetable waxes; fatty alcohols and solid fatty acids at room temperature; glycerides solid at room temperature.
• galactomannan (GM) having a degree of substitution (DS) of about 1/3, in the definition of the composition (Ci) which is the subject of the present invention, a polysaccharide whose main chain consists of D-mannose, linked together in position ⁇ -1, 4, and on which units of D-galactose are grafted laterally by bonds a-1, 6, so that the grafting of a unit of D- galactose is observed on average every 3 a days of D-mannose present on the main chain of said polysaccharide.
• Galactomannan (GM) as defined above comes more particularly from tara gum.
• crosslinked anionic polyelectrolyte in the definition of the composition (Ci) which is the subject of the present invention, is meant a non-linear crosslinked anionic polyelectrolyte, in the form of a three-dimensional network that is insoluble in water but inflatable. with water and leading to the obtaining of a chemical gel.
• partially salified or totally salified it is meant in the definition of the crosslinked anionic polyelectrolyte (PA) present of the composition (Ci) as defined above, that said 2-methyl-2 - [(1-oxo-2-) acid. propenyl) amino] 1-propanesulfonic acid is partially or totally salified, especially in the form of an alkali metal salt, for example in the form of sodium salt or of potassium salt, or in the form of an ammonium salt.
• PA crosslinked anionic polyelectrolyte
• said crosslinked anionic polyelectrolyte (PA) as defined previously generally comprises between 5 mol% and 95 mol% of monomeric units derived from 2-methyl 2- [ (1-oxo-2-propenyl) amino] 1-propanesulfonic acid partially or totally salified, more particularly between 10 mol% and 90 mol%, and especially between 20 mol% and 80 mol%.
• said crosslinked anionic polyelectrolyte (PA) as defined previously generally comprises between 4.9 mol% and 90 mol% of monomeric units originating from at least one of said neutral monomers, more particularly between 9.5 mol% and 85 mol%, and especially between 15 mol% and 75 mol%.
• said crosslinked anionic polyelectrolyte (PA) as defined previously generally comprises between 0.1 mol% and 10 mol% of monomers of formula (I) and more particularly between 0.5 mol% and 5% molar.
• said neutral monomer is more particularly chosen from acrylamide, ⁇ , ⁇ -dimethylacrylamide, N, N-diethylacrylamide, ⁇ , ⁇ -dipropylacrylamide or acrylate.
• (2-hydroxyethyl) in particular from acrylamide, (2-hydroxyethyl) acrylate or ⁇ , ⁇ -dimethylacrylamide and very particularly from (2-hydroxyethyl) acrylate or ⁇ , ⁇ dimethyl acrylamide.
• a radical derived from linear primary alcohols such as, for example, the octyl, decyl, undecyl, dodecyl, tridecyl, tetradecyl, pentadecyl, hexadecyl, heptadecyl, octadecyl, nonadecyl or eicosyl radical;
• p represents an integer between 2 and 9, such as, for example, the 2-ethyl hexyl, 2-propyl heptyl, 2-butyl octyl, 2-pentyl nonyl, 2-hexyl decyl or 2-octyl dodecyl radicals; ;
• m represents an integer between 2 and 16, such as, for example, the 4-methylpentyl, 5-methylhexyl, 6-methylheptyl, 15-methylpydecyl or 16-methylheptadecyl radicals, or the radicals 2 hexyl octyl, 2-octyl decyl or 2-hexyl dodecyl.
• the subject of the present invention is a composition (Ci) as defined above, for which in formula (I) as defined above, R represents an alkyl radical containing from 12 to 18 carbon atoms. carbon.
• the subject of the invention is a composition (Ci) as defined above, for which in the formula (I) as defined above, n represents an integer between 3 and 20.
• the subject of the invention is a composition (Ci) as defined above, for which said monomer of formula (I) is tetraethoxylated lauryl methacrylate, eicosaethoxylated stearyl methacrylate or methacrylate. behenyl ethoxylated with 25 moles of ethylene oxide, and especially tetraethoxylated lauryl methacrylate.
• the subject of the invention is a composition (Ci) as defined above, in which said crosslinked anionic polyelectrolyte (PA) is crosslinked with a diethylenic or polyethylenic compound in the molar proportion expressed relative to the monomers used. from 0.005% to 1%, more preferably from 0.01% to 0.5% and most preferably from 0.01% to 0.25%.
• the crosslinking agent is more particularly chosen from ethylene glycol dimethacrylate, tetraallyloxyethane, ethylene glycol diacrylate, diallyl urea, triallyl amine, trimethylol propanetriacrylate or methylenebis (acrylamide) or a mixture of these compounds. .
• the crosslinked anionic polyelectrolyte (PA) used in the composition (Ci) as defined above and which is the subject of the present invention may also comprise various additives, such as complexing agents, transfer agents or chain-limiting agents.
• the subject of the invention is a composition (Ci) as described above in which said crosslinked anionic polyelectrolyte (PA) is chosen from:
• the subject of the invention is a composition (Ci) as described above in which said crosslinked anionic polyelectrolyte (PA) is chosen from:
• composition (Ci) the combination in situ of the crosslinked anionic polyelectrolyte (PA) and galactomannan (GM) having a degree of substitution (DS) of approximately 1/3, as defined above and in the proportions as defined above, constitutes the stabilizing system of said composition (Ci).
• PA crosslinked anionic polyelectrolyte
• GM galactomannan having a degree of substitution (DS) of approximately 1/3, as defined above and in the proportions as defined above, constitutes the stabilizing system of said composition (Ci).
• aqueous phase (P 2 ) of the composition (Ci) object of the present invention means according to the directive of the Council of the European Economic Community No. 76/768 / EEC of 27 July 1976 amended by Directive 93/35 / EEC of 14 June 1993, that said aqueous phase (P 2 ) comprises water and any substance or preparation intended to be brought into contact with the various parts of the human body (epidermis, hair and hair system, nails, lips and genitals) or with the teeth and oral mucosa in view, exclusively and mainly, to clean, perfume, modify the appearance and / or correct body odor and / or protect or maintain it in good condition.
• a cosmetically acceptable aqueous phase (P 2 ) included in the composition (Ci) which is the subject of the present invention contains water, and can conventionally contain one or more cosmetically acceptable water-soluble organic solvents, a mixture of water and a water-soluble mixture. or more cosmetically acceptable organic solvents.
• the cosmetically acceptable solvents may more particularly be chosen from polyhydric alcohols, for example glycerol, diglycerol, triglycerol, oligomers of glycerol, xylitol, erythritol, sorbitol, 2-methyl-1,3-propanediol; alkoxylated polyhydric alcohols; glycols, such as, for example, butylene glycol, hexylene glycol, polycyclic acid 1,2-octanediol or 1,2-pentanediol, pentylene glycol, monopropylen eg lycol, oligopolyglycol, isopreneglycol, butyldiglycol, polyethylene glycols whose molecular weight is between 200g. mol "1 and 8000 g mol "1 ; or water-soluble alcohols such as ethanol, isopropanol or butanol.
• polyhydric alcohols for example
• salt (S) denotes a heteropolar compound whose crystalline network comprises the participation of at least one type of cation different from the hydrogen ion and at least one type of anion different from the hydroxide ion.
• the salt (S), which is in a form dissolved in the aqueous phase (P 2 ) of the composition (C 1) which is the subject of the present invention is selected from inorganic salts or from organic salts.
• the salt (S) is particularly selected from inorganic salts and it comprises in particular a cation which is the ammonium ion or a metal cation and an anion selected from the group consisting of halides , carbonates, bicarbonates, phosphates, nitrates, borates and sulphates.
• the subject of the invention is a composition (Ci) as defined above characterized in that the salt (S) is an inorganic salt whose metal cation is a monovalent or multivalent cation chosen from the elements of the group consisting of the cations of sodium, potassium, lithium, calcium, magnesium, zinc, manganese, iron, copper, cobalt, silver, gold, aluminum, barium, bismuth, selenium, zirconium, strontium and tin.
• the salt (S) is an inorganic salt whose metal cation is a monovalent or multivalent cation chosen from the elements of the group consisting of the cations of sodium, potassium, lithium, calcium, magnesium, zinc, manganese, iron, copper, cobalt, silver, gold, aluminum, barium, bismuth, selenium, zirconium, strontium and tin.
• the subject of the invention is a composition (Ci) as defined above, characterized in that the salt (S) is an inorganic salt chosen from the group consisting of sodium chloride, chloride and calcium chloride, magnesium chloride, calcium sulfate, ammonium sulfate, calcium carbonate, zinc sulfate, magnesium sulfate, sodium borate.
• the salt (S) is an inorganic salt chosen from the group consisting of sodium chloride, chloride and calcium chloride, magnesium chloride, calcium sulfate, ammonium sulfate, calcium carbonate, zinc sulfate, magnesium sulfate, sodium borate.
• the salt (S) is particularly selected from organic salts.
• the subject of the invention is a composition (Ci) as defined above characterized in that the salt (S) is an organic salt constituted by a cation which is the ammonium ion or a metal cation and by a organic anion which is an organic compound having at least one carboxylic acid function in carboxylate form or at least one sulfonic acid function in sulphonate form or at least one sulphate function.
• the salt (S) is an organic salt constituted by a cation which is the ammonium ion or a metal cation and by a organic anion which is an organic compound having at least one carboxylic acid function in carboxylate form or at least one sulfonic acid function in sulphonate form or at least one sulphate function.
• the subject of the invention is a composition (Ci) as defined above characterized in that the salt (S) is an organic salt consisting of a monovalent or multivalent metal cation more particularly chosen from the elements of the group consisting of by the cations of sodium, potassium, lithium, calcium, magnesium, zinc, manganese, iron, copper, cobalt silver, gold, aluminum, barium, bismuth, selenium, zirconium, strontium and tin.
• the salt (S) is an organic salt constituted by the cation chosen from the group consisting of the cations of sodium, calcium, magnesium, zinc and manganese, and even more particularly the salt (S ) is an organic salt consisting of the cation of sodium.
• the subject of the invention is a composition (Ci) as defined above, characterized in that the salt (S) is an organic salt consisting of a cation which is the ammonium ion or a metal cation as described previously, and by an organic anion which is an organic compound having at least one carboxylic acid function in carboxylate form selected from the group consisting of glycolic acid, citric acid, tartaric acid, salicylic acid, lactic acid, mandelic acid, ascorbic acid, pyruvic acid, fumaric acid, retinoic acid, benzoic acid, kojic acid, malic acid, gluconic acid, galacturonic acid, propionic acid, heptanoic acid, 4-amino benzoic acid, cinnamic acid, benzalmalonic acid, aspartic acid and glutamic acid.
• the salt (S) is an organic salt consisting of a cation which is the ammonium ion or a metal cation as described previously, and by
• the invention relates to a composition (Ci) as defined above characterized in that the salt (S) is an organic salt selected from the group consisting of sodium glycolate, citrate of sodium, sodium salicylate, sodium lactate, sodium gluconate, zinc gluconate, manganese gluconate, copper gluconate and magnesium aspartate.
• the salt (S) is an organic salt selected from the group consisting of sodium glycolate, citrate of sodium, sodium salicylate, sodium lactate, sodium gluconate, zinc gluconate, manganese gluconate, copper gluconate and magnesium aspartate.
• the subject of the invention is a composition (Ci) as defined above, characterized in that the salt (S) is an organic salt consisting of a cation which is the ammonium ion or a metal cation such as described above, and by an organic anion which is an organic compound having at least one sulfonic acid function in sulphonate form selected from the group consisting of 2-phenylbenzimidazole-5-sulphonic acid, sulphonic acids derived from non-benzophenes.
• the salt (S) is an organic salt consisting of a cation which is the ammonium ion or a metal cation such as described above, and by an organic anion which is an organic compound having at least one sulfonic acid function in sulphonate form selected from the group consisting of 2-phenylbenzimidazole-5-sulphonic acid, sulphonic acids derived from non-benzophenes.
• benzophenone-4 4-hydroxy-2-methoxy-5- (oxophenylmethyl) benzene sulphonic acid (said acid being registered under the name Benzophenone-4), sulphonic acids derived from 3-benzylidene camphor such as, for example, 4- (2-oxo-3-bornylidenemethyl) benzenesulphonic acid, 2-methyl-5 (2-oxo-3-bornylidenemethyl) benzenesulphonic acid.
• the subject of the invention is a composition (Ci) as defined above, characterized in that the salt (S) is an organic salt. selected from the group consisting of sodium 2-phenylbenzimidazole-5-sulphonate and sodium 4-hydroxy-2-methoxy-5- (oxo-phenylmethyl) benzenesulphonate.
• 2-Phenylbenzimidazole-5-sulphonic acid is sold in particular under the trade name EUSOLEX TM 232 by Merck.
• Sodium 4-hydroxy-2-methoxy-5- (oxo-phenylmethyl) benzene sulphonate is registered under the name benzophenone-5.
• PA crosslinked anionic polyelectrolyte
• GM galactomannan
• P 2 cosmetically acceptable aqueous phase
• adjuvants that may be present in said composition (Ci) are film-forming compounds, hydrotropic agents, plasticizing agents, opacifying agents, pearlescent agents, superfatting agents, sequestering agents, chelating agents, nonionic detergent surfactants, antioxidants, perfumes, preservatives, conditioning agents, bleaching agents for hair and skin discoloration, active principles intended to provide a treating action with respect to skin or hair, mineral fillers or pigments, particles providing a visual effect or intended for the encapsulation of active ingredients, exfoliating particles, texture agents, optical brighteners, repellents for insects.
• opacifying and / or nacrating agents examples include sodium or magnesium palmitate, stearate or hydroxystearate, ethylene glycol or polyethylene glycol monostearate or distearate, fatty alcohols, homopolymers and copolymers of styrene such as that the styrene acrylate copolymer marketed under the name MONTOPOL TM OP1 by the company SEPPIC.
• N-acyl derivatives of amino acids such as lauroyl lysine sold under the name AMINOHOPE TM LL by the company AJINOMOTO, octenyl starch succinate marketed under the name DRYFLO TM by NATIONAL STARCH, myristyl polyglucoside marketed by SEPPIC under the name MONTANOV TM 14, cellulose fibers, cotton fibers, chitosan fibers, talc, sericite , mica.
• vitamins and their derivatives in particular their esters, such as retinol (vitamin A) and its esters (retinyl palmitate, for example) , ascorbic acid (vitamin C) and its esters, ascorbic acid sugar derivatives (for example ascorbyl glucoside), tocopherol (vitamin E) and its esters (for example tocopherol acetate ), vitamin B3 or B10 (niacinamide and its derivatives); the compounds showing a lightening or depigmenting action of the skin such as SEPIWHITE TM MSH, arbutin, kojic acid, hydroquinone, VEGEWHITE TM, GATULI NE TM, SYNERLIGHT TM, BIOWHITE TM, PHYTOLIGHT TM, DERMALIGHT TM, CLARISKI N TM, MELASLOW TM, DERMAWHITE TM, ETHIOLINE,
• esters such as retinol (vitamin A) and its esters (retiny
• compositions (Ci) Among the active ingredients that can be associated with said composition (Ci), mention may be made more particularly of agents for tanning or browning of the skin, such as for example, dihydroxyacetone, isatin, alloxane, ninhydrin, glyceraldehyde, mesotartaric aldehyde, glutaraldehyde, erythrulose.
• agents for tanning or browning of the skin such as for example, dihydroxyacetone, isatin, alloxane, ninhydrin, glyceraldehyde, mesotartaric aldehyde, glutaraldehyde, erythrulose.
• nonionic detergent surfactants which may be associated with said composition (Ci)
• y represents a decimal number between 1 and 5
• S represents the residue of a reducing sugar
• R 2 represents a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated alkyl radical having from 5 to 16 carbon atoms, preferably from 8 to at 14 carbon atoms, or a mixture of compounds of formula (II).
• nonionic detergent surfactants that may be associated with said composition (Ci) are more particularly chosen from the group consisting of caprylyl capryl glucosides, sold in particular under the trade name ORAM IX TM CG 1 1 0 by the company SEPPIC, decylglucoside, sold in particular under the trade name ORAMIX TM NS 10 by the company SEPPIC.
• pigments that may be associated with said composition (Ci)
• sunscreens that can be associated with said composition (Ci)
• the subject of the invention is a composition (Ci) as defined above, characterized in that its dynamic viscosity, measured at a temperature of 20 ° C., by means of a Brookfield type viscometer is greater or equal to 30,000 m Pa ⁇ s and less than or equal to 200,000 m Pa ⁇ s, more particularly greater than or equal to 40,000 mPa ⁇ s and less than or equal to 130,000 mPa ⁇ s, and still more particularly greater than or equal to 50.000mPa.s and less than or equal to 130.000mPa.s.
• the subject of the invention is a composition (Ci) as defined above, characterized in that the conductivity of said composition (Ci), measured at a temperature of 20 ° C. by means of a branded conductivity meter.
• LF 196 of the company WTW munid 'u tetacon electrode 96 is su ere or equal to 15 millisiemens.cm “1 (mS.cm " 1 ) and less than or equal to 200 mS.cm "1 , more particularly higher or equal to 15 mS.cm- 1 and less than or equal to 150 mS.cm- 1 .
• Said composition (Ci) is in particular in the form of an aqueous continuous phase emulsion or microemulsion.
• composition (Ci) has suitable fluidity characteristics, it can also be used for impregnating supports made of synthetic or natural textile fibers, woven or nonwoven, or paper, to constitute articles, such as for example wipes. , for the care, protection or cleaning of the skin, scalp or hair, or as for example papers for sanitary or domestic use.
• Said composition (Ci) may be implemented by application to the skin, mucous membranes, hair or scalp, whether it is a direct application in the case of a cosmetic composition, dermocosmetic, dermopharmaceutical or pharmaceutical, or indirect application in the case of a care product, protection, cleaning the body in the form of a textile article, such as a wipe, or paper, as per example a sanitary paper, intended to be in contact with the skin, hair or scalp.
• composition (Ci) as defined above and object of the present invention is stable over time after a storage period of at least one month at 20 ° C and maintains a homogeneous appearance, not showing the appearance lumps or clusters, at the end of this same storage period under the same experimental conditions, without it being necessary to incorporate in said composition (Ci) emulsifying surfactants.
• the present invention relates to a composition (C) comprising per 100% of its mass an amount of 0% by mass of emulsifying surfactants (EM) selected from elements of the group (G j J consisting of:
• fatty acid esters comprising from 14 to 22 carbon atoms and from polyglycerol
• fatty alcohols having from 14 to 22 ethoxylated carbon atoms, fatty acid esters containing from 14 to 22 carbon atoms and sucrose,
• S represents the residue of a reducing sugar
• F3 ⁇ 4 represents a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated alkyl radical having from 14 to 22 carbon atoms, preferably from 16 to 22 carbon atoms, or a mixture of compounds of formula (III).
• z is a decimal number which represents the average degree of polymerization of the remainder S.
• (S) z is the polymeric residue of rank z of the rest
• formula (III) represents a mixture of compounds:
• I -OSH R 3 + R 2 3 -0- (O) 2 -H + a â R 3 -0- (S) 3 -H + ... + has a R 3 -0- (O) q - H with q representing an integer between 1 and 10 and in the molar proportions a ⁇ , a 2 , a 3 , ... a a such that:
• z is between 1.05 and 5.0 and more particularly between 1.05 and 2.
• R 3 represents, for example, the n-tetradecyl radical, the n-hexadecyl radical, the n-octadecyl radical, the n-eicosyl radical and the n-dodecosyl radical.
• reducing sugar in the definition of formula (III), the saccharide derivatives which do not have in their glycosidic bonding structures established between an anomeric carbon and the oxygen of an acetal group as defined in the reference book "Biochemistry”, Daniel Voet / Judith G. Voet, p. 250, John Wyley & Sons, 1990.
• the oligomeric structure (S) z can be in any form of isomerism, whether it is optical isomerism, geometric isomerism or isomerism of position; it can also represent a mixture of isomers.
• the group R 3 -O- is linked to S by the anomeric carbon of the saccharide residue, so as to form an acetal function.
• S represents the residue of a reducing sugar selected from glucose, xylose or arabinose.
• the subject of the present invention is a composition (Ci) comprising for 100% of its mass from 0.1% to 10% by weight, more particularly from 0.1% to 5% by mass, and even more particularly from 0.5% to 3% by weight of at least one emulsifying surfactant (EM) chosen from the elements of the group (GiJ as defined above.
• the mass ratio between the sum of the mass quantity of anionic polyelectrolyte (PA) and the mass quantity of galactomannan (GM), as defined above, and the mass quantity of the emulsifying agent (EM) is greater than or equal to 1.0, more particularly greater than or equal to 5.0, and even more particularly greater than or equal to 10.0.
• the subject of the present invention is a process for preparing the composition (Ci) as defined above, comprising:
• the fatty phase (Pi) comprises one or more oils and / or one or more waxes as defined above.
• the fatty phase (P j _) is not constituted by a single oil or by a single wax
• the fatty phase (Pi) is prepared by mixing the ingredients constituting it at a temperature typically between 20 ° C. and 85 ° C, and even more particularly at a temperature between 20 ° C and 60 ° C, and by means of any mixing device known to those skilled in the art, such as for example by means of a device d mechanical agitation equipped with an "anchor" type mobile, at stirring speeds of between 50 rpm and 500 rpm, more particularly between 50 rpm and 300 rpm.
• step a) of preparing a phase ( ⁇ ) by mixing the crosslinked anionic polyelectrolyte (PA) and galactomannan (GM) in the fatty phase (Pi ) can be advantageously used at a temperature below or equal to 85 ° C and greater than or equal to 20 ° C, more particularly at a temperature less than or equal to 60 ° C and greater than or equal to 20 ° C.
• step a) of preparing a phase ( ⁇ ⁇ ) by mixing the crosslinked anionic polyelectrolyte (PA) and galactomannan (GM) in the fatty phase ( Pi) can be achieved by means of any mixing device known to those skilled in the art, such as for example the means of a mechanical stirring device equipped with an "anchor" type mobile, at speeds of agitation between 50 revolutions per minute and 500 revolutions per minute, more particularly between 50 revolutions per minute and 300 revolutions per minute, and for example by means of rotor-stator type stirring device at speeds of agitation between 100 revolutions per minute and 10,000 revolutions per minute, more particularly between 500 revolutions per minute and 4000 revolutions per minute.
• any mixing device known to those skilled in the art, such as for example the means of a mechanical stirring device equipped with an “anchor" type mobile, at speeds of agitation between 50 revolutions per minute and 500 revolutions per minute, more particularly between 50 revolutions per minute and 300 revolutions per minute, and for example by means of rotor-st
• step b) of emulsification of the phase ( ⁇ ) obtained at the end of stage a) with the aqueous phase (P 2 ) can advantageously be carried out at a temperature between 20 ° C and 90 ° C, more particularly at a temperature between 20 ° C and 85 ° C, and even more particularly at a temperature between 20 ° C and 60 ° C.
• step b) of emulsification of the phase ( ⁇ ) obtained at the end of step a) with the aqueous phase (P 2 ) can be carried out by means of any mixing device known to those skilled in the art, such as for example the means of a mechanical stirring device equipped with an “anchor" type mobile, at stirring speeds of between 50 rpm and 500 rpm per minute, more particularly between 50 rpm and 300 rpm, and such as for example by means of a rotor-stator type stirring device at stirring speeds of between 100 rpm and 10,000 rpm per minute, more particularly between 500 rpm and 4000 rpm.
• any mixing device known to those skilled in the art, such as for example the means of a mechanical stirring device equipped with an “anchor" type mobile, at stirring speeds of between 50 rpm and 500 rpm per minute, more particularly between 50 rpm and 300 rpm, and such as for example by means of a rotor-stator type stirring device at stirring speeds of between 100 rpm and 10,000
• the cosmetically acceptable aqueous phase (P 2 ) comprises water, and optionally one or more cosmetically acceptable organic solvents as described previously, and from 1% to 25% by weight. % by mass, for 100% of the mass of said cosmetically acceptable aqueous phase (P 2 ) of at least one salt (S) in dissolved form and as defined above.
• the cosmetically acceptable aqueous phase (P 2 ) is prepared by mixing water, and optionally one or more cosmetically acceptable organic solvents, with at least one salt (S) as described above, at a temperature of between 20 ° C. C and 85 ° C, and even more particularly at a temperature between 20 ° C and 60 ° C, and by means of any mixing device known to those skilled in the art, such as for example by means of a device mechanical agitation equipped with an “anchor" type mobile, at stirring speeds of between 50 rpm and 500 rpm, more particularly between 50 rpm and 300 rpm.
• the subject of the present invention is the cosmetic use of the composition (Ci) as defined above for the cleaning, for the protection and / or for the care of the skin, the hair, the scalp or the skin. mucous membranes.
• cosmetic use denotes the uses of the composition (Ci) intended to improve and / or preserve the external appearance of the skin, hair, scalp or mucous membranes.
• said composition (Ci) can be used for cleaning the skin, mucous membranes, hair or scalp, and more particularly can be used as a bath or shower gel, as a shampoo.
• it further comprises at least one nonionic detergent surfactant as described above.
• said composition (Ci) can be used for the care or for the protection of the skin, such as for example as a cream, as milk or as a lotion for the care or for the protection of the face, hands and the body.
• said composition (Ci) can also be used more particularly as a skin protection product against the sun's rays, as a skin-make-up product, as a skin-protecting product against skin aging, as a product. moisturizing the skin, as a cosmetic treatment product for acne and / or blackheads and / or comedones.
• the required mass quantity of a 15% aqueous solution of AMPSNH 4 in a mixture is charged into a reactor maintained at 25 ° C. with stirring.
• tert-butanol / water (97.5 / 2.5 by volume) so as to introduce 77.4 molar equivalents of AMPSNH 4
• the required mass quantity of (2-hydroxyethyl) acrylate (HEA) from in order to introduce 19.2 molar equivalents of HEA
• the necessary mass quantity of [MAL (40E)] so as to introduce 3.4 molar equivalents of [MAL (40E)]
• the necessary mass quantity of TMPTA so as to obtain the same molar proportion of TMPTA as in paragraph 1 -1.
• Polyelectrolyte PA TM After cooling, the powder that has formed during polymerization is filtered and dried to obtain the desired product, hereinafter referred to as "Polyelectrolyte PA TM".
• Polyelectrolyte PAs Preparation of a copolymer of ammonium 2-methyl-2-f (1-oxo-2-propenyl) aminol-1-propanesulfonate and (2-hydroxyethyl acrylate) fAMPS / HEA 90/10 molairel, crosslinked to TMPTA [Comparative Example].
• the required mass quantity of a 15% aqueous solution of AMPSNH 4 in a mixture is charged into a reactor maintained at 25 ° C. with stirring.
• tert-butanol / water (97.5 / 2.5 by volume) so as to introduce 90 molar equivalents of AMPSNH 4
• the required mass quantity of HEA so as to introduce 10 molar equivalents of HEA
• the required mass quantity of TMPTA so as to obtain the same molar proportion of TMPTA as in paragraph 1 -1.
• Polyelectrolyte PA 2-1 Preparation of oil-in-water emulsions according to US Pat. invention.
• one of the polyelectrolytes PA-1 or PA 2 and the Tara gum are gradually and successively dispersed at a temperature of 20 ° C. in a fatty phase with mechanical stirring at 80 rpm;
• a second beaker is prepared at a temperature of 20 ° C, the aqueous phase comprising water and the desired mass amount of salt;
• the content of the first beaker is gradually poured into the second beaker at a temperature of 20 ° C, with mechanical stirring by means of a deflocculator at 1200 rpm;
• Aqueous phase Aqueous phase :
• Geogard TM 221 (1) 0.6% 0.6% 0.6% 0.6% 0.6% 0.6% 0.6% 0.6% 0.6%
• Geogard TM 221 is a mixture of dehydroacetic acid and benzyl alcohol used as a preservative and marketed by LONZA.
• one of the polyelectrolytes PA-1 to PA4 and the Tara gum are gradually and successively dispersed at a temperature of 20 ° C. in a fatty phase with mechanical stirring at 80 rpm;
• a second beaker is prepared at a temperature of 20 ° C, the aqueous phase comprising water and the desired mass amount of salt;
• the content of the first beaker is gradually poured into the second beaker at a temperature of 20 ° C, with mechanical stirring by means of a deflocculator at 1200 rpm;
• Aqueous phase Aqueous phase :
• Aqueous phase Aqueous phase :
• Geogard TM 221 (1) 0.6% 0.6% 0.6% 0.6% 0.6% 0.6% 0.6% 0.6% 0.6%
• the dynamic viscosity ( ⁇ ) is measured at 20 ° C. by means of a viscometer of the type
• Brookfield LVT at a speed of 6 revolutions per minute (V6) when said dynamic viscosity is less than or equal to approximately 100,000 mPa.s, provided with the adapted mobile or by means of a Brookfield RVT type viscometer at a speed of 5 revolutions per minute. minute when said dynamic viscosity is greater than 100,000 mPa.s, provided with a suitable mobile, each emulsion.
• the conductivity is measured at 20 ° C. by means of a conductimeter of the LF 196 brand from the company WTW equipped with a Tétracon TM 96 electrode.
• the oil-in-water emulsions are then replaced and stored in the same isolated climatic chamber and regulated at a temperature of 20 ° C up to three months. After a period of three months, each emulsion is removed from the climatic chamber to observe its appearance.
• the results obtained for the oil-in-water emulsions (E 1 to E 13 ) according to the invention are given in Table 3 below and the results obtained for the comparative oil-in-water emulsions (Fi) at ( F 10 ) are reported in the following Table 4.
• Emulsions (Ei) to (E 13 ) according to the invention have a smooth appearance, free of lumps and clumps, even after a period of storage extended for 3 months at 20 ° C.
• the PA-i polyelectrolyte and the Xanthan gum are dispersed progressively and successively at a temperature of 20 ° C. in a fatty phase with mechanical stirring at 80 rpm;
• a second beaker is prepared at a temperature of 20 ° C, the aqueous phase comprising water and the desired mass amount of salt;
• the content of the first beaker is gradually poured into the second beaker at a temperature of 20 ° C, with mechanical stirring by means of a deflocculator at 1200 rpm;
• Keltrol TM CG-T is xanthan gum marketed by CP Kelco 3-2: Preparation of oil-in-water emulsions of mask type "rinse off" restructuring for stressed and weakened hair according to the invention and according to the state of the art
• a fat phase is prepared by successively introducing Lanol TM P, Lanol TM 99, jojoba oil and Montanov TM 82 at a temperature of 80 ° C, then gradually dispersed. the PAi polyelectrolyte and then the Tara gum or the xanthan gum with mechanical stirring at 80 rpm;
• aqueous phase comprising water, which is poured gradually and sequentially butylene glycol, N-cocoyl amino acids, PECOSIL TM SPP 50, AMONYL TM DM, SEPICIDE TM HB and SEPICIDE TM CI;
• the content of the first beaker is gradually poured into the second beaker at a temperature of 80 ° C, with mechanical stirring using a deflocculator at 1200 rpm;
• LANOL TM P is a glycol palmitate used as a stabilizing additive, and marketed by the company SEPPIC.
• LANOL TM 99 is isononyl isononanoate sold by the company SEPPIC.
• MONTANOV TM 82 is an emulsifier based on cetearyl alcohol and cocoylglucoside.
• PECOSIL TM SPP 50 is a potassium phosphate panthenyl dimethicone PEG-7, marketed by the company PHOENIX.
• AMONYL TM DM is a cationic surfactant in the form of a quaternary ammonium salt, whose name I NCI is "Polyquaternium 82", and marketed by the company SEPPIC.
• SEPICIDE TM HB which is a mixture of phenoxyethanol, methylparaben, ethylparaben, propylparaben and butylparaben, is a preservative marketed by the company SEPPIC.
• SEPICIDE TM Cl imidazolidine urea
• SEPPIC preservative
• oil-in-water emulsions (Fn), (F 12 ) and (F 13 ) according to the state of the art and the emulsion (E 14 ) according to the invention are evaluated according to the experimental protocol described in section 2-. 3 previous.
• results are considered satisfactory when the visual appearance of an oil-in-water emulsion is considered homogeneous and smooth after a storage period of three months at 20 ° C. of said oil-in-water emulsion, and when its dynamic viscosity measured at 20 ° C., using a Brookfield LVT type viscometer at a speed of 6 revolutions per minute, provided with the adapted mobile, is greater than or equal to 30,000 mPa.s.
• the emulsions (Fn) and (F 12 ) according to the state of the art must be respectively compared to the emulsions (Ei) and (E 5 ) according to the invention because they differ in their constitutions only by the implementation of the xanthan gum instead of Tara gum in the stabilizer system.
• the emulsions (E 1 and E 5 ) have a smooth appearance, free of lumps and clusters, after a prolonged storage period of 3 months at 20 ° C, whereas the emulsions (Fn) and (F 12 ) have a heterogeneous appearance with presence of lumps and clumps after the same storage period under the same operating conditions.
• the oil-in-water emulsion (E 14 ) according to the invention has a smooth appearance, free of lumps and clusters, after a prolonged storage period of 3 months at 20 ° C.
• the oil-in-water emulsion (F 13 ) according to the state of the art has a heterogeneous appearance with the presence of lumps and clumps after the same storage period under the same operating conditions.
• AQUAXYL TM (INCI name: Xylitylglucoside & Anhydroxylitol & Xylitol): Moisturizing composition marketed by the company SEPPIC.
• Euxyl TM PE9010 (INCI name: Phenoxyethanol & Ethylhexyl Glycerin): Composition used as a preservative.
• GIVOBIO TM GZn (I NCI name: Zinc Gluconate): Composition marketed by the company SEPPIC.
• LANOL TM 99 (INCI name: Isononyl Isononanoate): Ester used as an oily phase in the preparation of cosmetic composition and distributed by the company SEPPIC.
• Maris Aqua seawater with 8% sodium chloride.
• SEPICIDE TM HB (INCI name: Phenoxyethanol / Methylparaben / Ethylparaben / Propylparaben / Butylparaben): Preservative containing phenoxyethanol, sold by the company SEPPIC.
• SEPICALM TM S (INCI name: Sodium Cocoyl Amino Acids And Sarcosine And Potassium Aspartate And Magnesium Aspartate): Anti-inflammatory composition marketed by the company SEPPIC.
• SERENIKS TM 207 (INCI name: Tsuga Canadensis Leaf Extract And Water And Butylene Glycol) is an anti-aging composition.

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