WO2013076238A1

WO2013076238A1 - Composition comprising a superabsorbent polymer and a nonsuperabsorbent acrylic acid homopolymer or copolymer which is at least partially neutralized

Info

Publication number: WO2013076238A1
Application number: PCT/EP2012/073454
Authority: WO
Inventors: Laure Fageon; Karl Boutelet; Raluca Lorant
Original assignee: L'oreal
Priority date: 2011-11-25
Filing date: 2012-11-23
Publication date: 2013-05-30
Also published as: FR2983071B1; FR2983071A1

Abstract

A subject of the present invention is a composition for topical application, comprising at least one aqueous phase, at least one superabsorbent polymer and at least one nonsuperabsorbent polymer chosen from acrylic acid homopolymers or copolymers which are at least partially neutralized. A subject of the invention is also a cosmetic treatment process for keratin materials, which consists in applying to the keratin materials a composition as defined above, and also the use of this composition in the cosmetic or dermatological field, and in particular for caring for, protecting and/or making up bodily or facial skin, or for haircare. The composition according to the invention makes it possible to obtain a quick break effect on application which is improved compared with the prior art compositions. Moreover, it has the advantage of having a very soft and non-tacky texture, which is very pleasant on application.

Description

Composition comprising a superabsorbent polymer and a nonsuperabsorbent acrylic acid homopolymer or copolymer which is at least partially neutralized

The present application relates to a composition for topical application, comprising at least one aqueous phase, at least one superabsorbent polymer and at least one nonsuperabsorbent polymer chosen from acrylic homopolymers or copolymers which are at least partially neutralized, and to the use of said composition in the cosmetic and dermatological fields, in particular for caring for or treating keratin materials.

It is known that the skin has a tendency to become dry as a result of environmental factors (pollution, wind, cold, air conditioning), psychological factors (fatigue, stress) or hormonal factors (menopause). However, it is important for the skin to be well moisturized and not to suffer water loss, which would run the risk of resulting in withered, dried-out skin.

Consumers therefore expect their cosmetic products to well moisturize their skin.

The sensation of moisturized skin is conveyed, on application, by products which offer an aqueous sensation, and easy penetration. This aqueous sensation at the moment of application is called the "quick break effect" by those skilled in the art.

This "quick break" effect is characterized, at the moment of application to the skin, by a destructuring of the aqueous phase of the product, linked to the sensitivity to the skin electrolytes of the gelling agents used in the product. Indeed, this sensitivity leads to a considerable drop in viscosity, thus releasing the water from the formula and instantaneously causing a perceptible aqueous effect.

These electrolytes at the surface of the skin are essentially brought by sweat, mainly composed of NaCI at a low level, reputed in the literature to be close to 20 mmol/l, which corresponds to a composition of approximately 0.1 % NaCI.

It can thus be stated that, the more sensitive a cosmetic composition is to the electrolytes, the greater the quick break effect will be, and that it is advantageous for those skilled in the art to have products which offer a better quick break effect.

The applicant has discovered that cosmetic compositions comprising a superabsorbent polymer and an acrylic acid homopolymer or copolymer which is nonsuperabsorbent and at least partially neutralized exhibit a better quick break effect than compositions containing just one of these two polymers.

Thus, a subject of the present invention is a composition for topical application, comprising at least one aqueous phase, at least one superabsorbent polymer and at least one nonsuperabsorbent polymer chosen from acrylic acid homopolymers or copolymers which are at least partially neutralized. As the composition of the invention is intended for topical application to the skin or superficial body growths, it comprises a physiologically acceptable medium, that is to say a medium compatible with all keratin materials, such as the skin, nails, mucous membranes and keratin fibers (such as the hair or eyelashes).

The composition according to the invention makes it possible to obtain a quick break effect on application which is improved compared with the prior art compositions. Moreover, it has the advantage of having a very soft and non-tacky texture, which is very pleasant on application.

A subject of the invention is also a cosmetic treatment process for keratin materials, which consists in applying to the keratin materials a composition as defined above.

A subject of the invention is also the use of said composition in the cosmetic or dermatological field, and in particular for caring for, protecting and/or making up bodily or facial skin, or for haircare.

In what follows, the expression "at least one" is equivalent to "one or more" and, unless otherwise indicated, the limits of a range of values are included in that range.

Superabsorbent polymers

The term "superabsorbent polymer" means a polymer that is capable in its dry form of spontaneously absorbing at least 20 times its own weight of aqueous fluid, in particular of water and especially distilled water. Such superabsorbent polymers are described in the publication "Absorbent polymer technology, Studies in polymer science 8" by L. Brannon- Pappas and R. Harland, published by Elsevier, 1990.

These polymers have a large capacity for absorbing and retaining water and aqueous fluids. After absorption of the aqueous liquid, the polymer particles thus engorged with aqueous fluid remain insoluble in the aqueous fluid and thus conserve their individualized particulate state.

The superabsorbent polymer may have a water-absorbing capacity ranging from 20 to 2000 times its own weight (i.e. 20 g to 2000 g of absorbed water per gram of absorbent polymer), preferably from 30 to 1500 times and better still from 50 to 1000 times. These water absorption characteristics are defined under standard temperature (25°C) and pressure (760 mmHg, i.e. 100 000 Pa) conditions and for distilled water.

The value of the water-absorbing capacity of a polymer may be determined by dispersing 0.5 g of polymer(s) in 150 g of a water solution, waiting for 20 minutes, filtering the unabsorbed solution through a 150 μηη filter for 20 minutes and weighing the unabsorbed water. The superabsorbent polymer used in the composition of the invention is in the form of particles. Preferably, the superabsorbent polymer has, in the dry or nonhydrated state, an average size of less than or equal to 100 μηι, preferably less than or equal to 50 μηι, ranging for example from 10 to 100 μηη, preferably from 15 to 50 μηη, and better still from 20 ίο 30 μηΊ.

The average size of the particles corresponds to the weight-average diameter (D₅₀) measured by laser particle size analysis or another equivalent method known to those skilled in the art.

These particles, once hydrated, swell and form soft particles which have an average size that can range from 10 μηη to 1000 μηη.

Preferably, the superabsorbent polymers used in the present invention are in the form of spherical particles.

Mention may be made in particular of absorbent polymers chosen from:

- crosslinked sodium polyacrylates, for instance those sold under the names Octacare X100, X1 10 and RM100 by the company Avecia, those sold under the names Flocare

GB300 and Flosorb 500 by the company SNF, those sold under the names Luquasorb 1003, Luquasorb 1010, Luquasorb 1280 and Luquasorb 1 1 10 by the company BASF, those sold under the names Water Lock G400 and G430 (INCI name: Acrylamide/Sodium acrylate copolymer) by the company Grain Processing, or else Aquakeep® 10 SH NF proposed by the company Sumitomo Seika,

- starches grafted with an acrylic polymer (homopolymer or copolymer) and in particular with sodium polyacrylate, such as those sold under the name Sanfresh ST-100MC by the company Sanyo Chemical Industries or Makimousse 25 or Makimousse 12 by the company Daito Kasei (INCI name: Sodium polyacrylate Starch),

- hydrolyzed starches grafted with an acrylic polymer (homopolymer or copolymer) and especially the acryloacrylamide/sodium acrylate copolymer, such as those sold under the names Water Lock A-240, A-180, B-204, D-223, A-100, C-200 and D-223 by the company Grain Processing (INCI name: Starch/acrylamide/sodium acrylate copolymer),

- polymers based on starch, on gum and on cellulose derivative, such as the product containing starch, guar gum and sodium carboxymethylcellulose, sold under the name

Lysorb 220 by the company Lysac,

- and mixtures thereof.

The superabsorbent polymers used in the present invention may be crosslinked or noncrosslinked. They are preferably chosen from crosslinked polymers.

The superabsorbent polymers used in the present invention are preferably crosslinked acrylic homopolymers or copolymers, which have preferably been neutralized, and which are in particulate form. Preferably, the superabsorbent polymer is chosen from crosslinked sodium polyacrylates, preferably in the form of particles with an average size (or average diameter) of less than or equal to 100 microns, more preferably in the form of spherical particles. These polymers preferably have a water-absorbing capacity of from 10 to 100 g/g, preferably from 20 to 80 g/g and better still from 40 to 80 g/g.

The superabsorbent polymer(s) may be present in the composition according to the invention in an active material content ranging, for example, from 0.05% to 5% by weight, preferably from 0.05% to 3% by weight and preferably ranging from 0.05% to 1 % by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

Nonsuperabsorbent acrylic homopolymers or copolymers which are at least partially neutralized

All nonsuperabsorbent acrylic homopolymers or copolymers are suitable for the present invention provided that they are hydrophilic and used in an at least partially neutralized form.

In the context of the invention, a "nonsuperabsorbent polymer" is a polymer which does not correspond to the definition given above for superabsorbent polymers.

According to the invention, the term "hydrophilic polymer" means a nonamphiphilic polymer that is soluble and dispersible in water.

The nonsuperabsorbent acrylic homopolymers or copolymers that are suitable for the invention may be present in the composition in a particulate or non-particulate form.

When they are present in a particulate form, their average size in the hydrated state is preferably less than or equal to 10 μηη and even more preferentially less than or equal to

5 μηη. Their average size in the dry or nonhydrated state is preferably less than or equal to 2 μηι, preferably less than or equal to 1 μηι.

As regards these nonsuperabsorbent acrylic polymers possibly already neutralized before use, examples that may be mentioned include:

- sodium polyacrylates such as those sold under the name Cosmedia SP^® containing 90% solids and 10% water, or Cosmedia SPL^® as an inverse emulsion containing about 60% dry active material, an oil (hydrogenated polydecene) and a surfactant (PPG-5 laureth-5), both sold by the company Cognis;

- partially neutralized sodium polyacrylates that are in the form of an inverse emulsion comprising at least one polar oil, for example the product sold under the name Luvigel^® EM by the company BASF; and

- their mixtures.

A nonsuperabsorbent acrylic acid polymer in accordance with the present invention, which has not been neutralized beforehand, may be neutralized by any suitable means and in particular by adding sodium hydroxide. Sodium polyacrylates are thus obtained. Potassium polyacrylates are also suitable for the present invention.

The neutralization may be performed prior to use in the composition of the invention if the polymer in question is sold in a non-neutralized form. On the other hand, for some of them, neutralization is inherent in the raw material. This is the case in particular for Luvigel^® EM and for the products called Cosmedia^® SP and SPL, which are already partially neutralized.

The neutralization step, for example with sodium or potassium counterions, is important for giving the acidic polymers their properties of gelling and thus stabilizing the composition. Said acrylic polymers are converted into the corresponding acrylate polymers during this neutralization step. The acrylic monomers of the acrylic polymer according to the invention may be neutralized in a proportion of from 5% to 80%.

According to one particular embodiment of the invention, the acrylic polymer in accordance with the invention may comprise nonionic monomers. By way of nonionic monomers, use may be made of acrylamide, methacrylamide, vinylpyrrolidone, vinylimidazole, vinylcaprolactam and hydroxy(CrC₄)alkyl esters of carboxylic acids, such as hydroxyethyl acrylates. However, in the context of the present invention, preference is given to acrylic polymers comprising more than 90% of acrylic acid monomers, or even comprising no nonionic monomer (acrylic acid homopolymers).

According to one particular embodiment, the acrylic acid homopolymer or copolymer may be in the form of a water-in-oil emulsion, known as an inverse emulsion. This inverse emulsion may be obtained, for example, by inverse emulsion polymerization.

According to one particular embodiment of the invention, the polymer used is a partially neutralized sodium polyacrylate that is in the form of an inverse emulsion comprising at least one polar oil. Among the oils, mention may be made of fatty acid esters. Examples of these fatty acid esters are isopropyl esters of fatty acids, such as isopropyl palmitate or isopropyl myristate, or fatty acid polyglycerides, in particular of fatty acid mixtures comprising at least 50% of capric and/or caprylic acids. Such water-in-oil emulsions are described in document US 6 197 283.

According to this embodiment, the oily phase may consist of one or more fatty acid esters, one or more fatty acid polyglycerides based on a mixture of polyglycerides, which contains diglycerides and triglycerides, with mixtures of fatty acids, which contain caprylic acid and/or capric acid, preferably in a proportion of at least 50% by weight relative to the total weight of fatty acids.

According to one embodiment of the invention, the oil content of the inverse emulsion is between 15% and 70% by weight and in particular between 20% and 35% by weight relative to the total weight of the inverse emulsion. In this respect, mention may be made in particular of Luvigel^® EM, the oily phase of which comprises 26% of oil phase consisting of C₈-Ci₀ triglycerides, that is to say the fatty acids of which are a mixture of caprylic and capric acid.

Moreover, the water-in-oil emulsion may contain from 0.25% to 7% by weight and preferably from 0.5% to 5% by weight of a surfactant.

The at least partially neutralized acrylic polymer may be present in the inverse emulsion in a content ranging from 20% to 70% by weight, in particular from 20% to 65% by weight, for example from 20% to 62% by weight relative to the total weight of the inverse emulsion.

In particular, according to one embodiment, the acrylic polymer may be present in the inverse emulsion in a content ranging from 20% to 30% by weight relative to the total weight of the inverse emulsion. According to yet another embodiment, the acrylic polymer may be present in the inverse emulsion in a content ranging from 50% to 62% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

According to one particular embodiment of the invention, the nonsuperabsorbent polymers may consist of:

a) from 35% to 100% by weight of acrylic acid monomers, these monomers being 5-80% neutralized,

b) from 0% to 65% by weight of nonionic monomers,

c) from 0.3 mol% to 1 mol%, relative to a) and b), of at least one at least bifunctional monomer.

In the water-in-oil formulation of such a polymer, the oily phase may then consist of one or more fatty acid esters as described previously.

The nonsuperabsorbent homopolymer(s) or copolymer(s) which are at least partially neutralized may be crosslinked or noncrosslinked.

When they are crosslinked, the crosslinking of the acrylic acid may be obtained according to any method known to those skilled in the art, especially according to the description of document US 6 197 283 or according to the description of document US 6 444 785, which mention the crosslinking agents that may be used.

Among these, mention may be made of unsaturated compounds that are soluble in water or in oil. Such crosslinking agents are in particular methylenebisacrylamide, divinylpyrrolidone, alkyl (meth)acrylate, triallylamine, ethylene glycol diacrylates (up to 50 EO), (meth)acrylic esters with di- or polyhydric alcohols such as trimethylolpropane triacrylate or pentaerythrityl tetraacrylate.

According to one embodiment, the crosslinking agent is water-soluble.

According to another embodiment, the crosslinking agent is triallylamine. The preparation of W/O emulsions comprising a polymer in accordance with the present invention may be performed according to the teaching of document US 6 444 785. The object of this process is to lower the content of remaining monomers by post-treatment with a redox initiator system. According to this process, the post-treatment of the W/O emulsion is performed by addition of a redox initiator system which comprises essentially a) 0.001 % to 5% by weight, relative to the total amount of monomers used for the preparation of the polymer,

a1 ) of an oxidizing agent R¹OOH,

in which R¹ denotes hydrogen, a Ci to C₈ alkyl group or a C₆ to Ci₂ aryl group, and/or a2) of a compound that releases hydrogen peroxide in aqueous medium, and

b) 0.005% to 5% by weight, relative to the total amount of monomers used for the preparation of the polymer,

b1 ) of an ohydroxycarbonyl compound having the following formula:

O OH

R2^ ' R3

in which the groups have, independently of each other, the following meaning:

R2: hydrogen, or a C1-C12 alkyl group, optionally containing functional groups and/or possibly comprising olefinic unsaturations,

R3: hydrogen, OH, or a C1-C12 alkyl group, optionally containing functional groups and/or possibly comprising olefinic unsaturations,

and whereas R2 and R3 may form a cyclic structure, which may contain a heteroatom and/or functional groups, and/or may comprise olefinic unsaturations, and/or

b2) of a compound that releases such an ohydroxycarbonyl compound in aqueous medium, and

c) catalytic amounts of a multivalent metal ion that may be in several valency states.

The nonsuperabsorbent polymer(s) chosen from acrylic acid homopolymers or copolymers which are at least partially neutralized may be present in the composition of the invention in an active material content ranging, for example, from 0.05% to 5% by weight, preferably from 0.05% to 3% by weight and preferably ranging from 0.05% to 1 % by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

According to one particular embodiment, the superabsorbent polymer(s) and the nonsuperabsorbent polymer(s) chosen from acrylic acid homopolymers or copolymers which are at least partially neutralized according to the invention are used such that the total active content of polymers is between 0.1 % and 5% of the total composition, preferentially between 0.1 % and 3% of the total composition, and more preferentially between 0.1 % and 2%.

According to one particular embodiment, the superabsorbent polymer(s) and the nonsuperabsorbent polymer(s) chosen from acrylic acid homopolymers or copolymers which are at least partially neutralized according to the invention are used in a (superabsorbent polymers )/(nonsuperabsorbent polymers) weight ratio of between 0.05:1 and 1 :0.05, preferably between 0.2:1 and 1 :0.2.

The composition according to the invention may be in various galenical forms conventionally used for topical applications, and in particular in the form of dispersions of the lotion or serum type, emulsions of liquid or semi-liquid consistency of the milk type, obtained by dispersing a fatty phase in an aqueous phase (O/W) or vice versa (W/O), or suspensions or emulsions of soft, semi-solid or solid consistency of the cream and/or gel type, or alternatively multiple emulsions (W/O/W or 0/W/O), microemulsions, or vesicular dispersions of ionic and/or nonionic type. These compositions are prepared according to the usual methods.

According to one preferred embodiment of the invention, the composition is in the form of an emulsion, and in particular an O/W emulsion or a cream gel.

In addition, the compositions used according to the invention may be more or less fluid and may have the appearance of a white or coloured cream, an ointment, a milk, a lotion, a serum, a paste or a mousse.

The composition preferably exhibits a skin-friendly pH which generally ranges from 3 to 8 and preferably from 4.5 to 7.

Aqueous phase

The aqueous phase of the composition in accordance with the invention comprises at least water. According to the galenical form of the composition, the amount of aqueous phase can range from 0.1 % to 99% by weight, preferably from 0.5% to 98% by weight, better still from 30% to 95% by weight and even better still from 40% to 95% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. This amount depends on the galenical form of the composition desired. The amount of water can represent all or a portion of the aqueous phase and it is generally at least 30% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably at least 50% by weight, better still at least 60% by weight.

The aqueous phase may comprise at least one hydrophilic solvent other than the polyols as defined above, for instance substantially linear or branched lower monoalcohols having from 1 to 8 carbon atoms, such as ethanol, propanol, butanol, isopropanol or isobutanol.

Fatty phase

When it is in the form of an emulsion, the composition according to the invention may comprise a fatty phase. The proportion of the fatty phase of the emulsion can range, for example, from 1 % to 80% by weight, preferably from 2% to 50% by weight and better still from 5% to 30% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

The nature of the fatty phase of the composition is not critical. The fatty phase can thus consist of any fatty substance conventionally used in the cosmetic or dermatological fields; it comprises in particular at least one oil (fatty substance liquid at 25°C).

As oils that may be used in the composition of the invention, examples that may be mentioned include:

- hydrocarbon-based oils of animal origin, such as perhydrosqualene;

- hydrocarbon-based oils of vegetable origin, such as liquid triglycerides of fatty acids comprising from 4 to 10 carbon atoms, such as heptanoic or octanoic acid triglycerides, or alternatively, for example, sunflower oil, maize oil, soybean oil, squash oil, grape seed oil, sesame seed oil, hazelnut oil, apricot oil, macadamia oil, arara oil, castor oil, avocado oil, caprylic/capric acid triglycerides, such as those sold by Stearineries Dubois or those sold under the names Miglyol 810, 812 and 818 by Dynamit Nobel, jojoba oil and shea butter oil;

- synthetic esters and ethers, in particular of fatty acids, such as oils of formulae R^aCOOR^b and ROR^b in which R^a represents the residue of a fatty acid comprising from 8 to 29 carbon atoms and R^b represents a branched or unbranched hydrocarbon-based chain containing from 3 to 30 carbon atoms, such as, for example, purcellin oil, isononyl isononanoate, isopropyl myristate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, 2-octyldodecyl stearate, 2- octyldodecyl erucate or isostearyl isostearate; hydroxylated esters, such as isostearyl lactate, octyl hydroxystearate, octyldodecyl hydroxystearate, diisostearyl malate, triisocetyl citrate, fatty alcohol heptanoates, octanoates and decanoates; polyol esters, such as propylene glycol dioctanoate, neopentyl glycol diheptanoate and diethylene glycol diisononanoate; and pentaerythritol esters, such as pentaerythrityl tetraisostearate;

- substantially linear or branched hydrocarbons of mineral or synthetic origin, such as volatile or non-volatile liquid paraffins, and their derivatives, petroleum jelly, polydecenes, isohexadecane, isododecane or hydrogenated polyisobutene, such as Parleam® oil; - fatty alcohols having from 8 to 26 carbon atoms, such as cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol and their mixture (cetearyl alcohol), octyldodecanol, 2-butyloctanol, 2-hexyldecanol, 2- undecylpentadecanol, oleyl alcohol or linoleyl alcohol;

- alkoxylated and in particular ethoxylated fatty alcohols, such as oleth-12, ceteareth-12 and ceteareth-20;

- partially hydrocarbon-based and/or silicone-based fluoro oils, such as those described in the document JP-A-2-295 912. Mention may also be made, as fluoro oils, of perfluoromethylcyclopentane and perfluoro-1 ,3-dimethylcyclohexane, sold under the names Flutec PC1^® and Flutec PC3^® by the company BNFL Fluorochemicals; perfluoro- 1 ,2-dimethylcyclobutane; perfluoroalkanes, such as dodecafluoropentane and tetradecafluorohexane, sold under the names PF 5050^® and PF 5060^® by the company 3M, or bromoperfluorooctyl, sold under the name Foralkyl^® by the company Atochem; nonafluoromethoxybutane, sold under the name MSX 4518^® by the company 3M, and nonafluoroethoxyisobutane; or perfluoromorpholine derivatives, such as 4- (trifluoromethyl)perfluoromorpholine, sold under the name PF 5052^® by the company 3M;

- silicone oils, such as volatile or non-volatile polymethylsiloxanes (PDMSs) comprising a substantially linear or cyclic silicone chain, which are liquid or pasty at ambient temperature, in particular cyclopolydimethylsiloxanes (cyclomethicones), such as cyclohexadimethylsiloxane and cyclopentadimethylsiloxane; polydimethylsiloxanes comprising alkyl, alkoxy or phenyl groups, which are pendent or at the end of a silicone chain, which groups have from 2 to 24 carbon atoms; or phenylated silicones, such as phenyl trimethicones, phenyl dimethicones, phenyl(trimethylsiloxy)diphenylsiloxanes, diphenyl dimethicones, diphenyl(methyldiphenyl)trisiloxanes, (2- phenylethyl)trimethylsiloxysilicates and polymethylphenylsiloxanes;

- mixtures thereof.

In the list of the abovementioned oils, the term "hydrocarbon-based oil" is understood to mean any oil predominantly comprising carbon and hydrogen atoms, and optionally ester, ether, fluoro, carboxylic acid and/or alcohol groups. The emulsions generally contain at least one emulsifier chosen from amphoteric, anionic, cationic or nonionic emulsifiers, used alone or as a mixture. The emulsifiers are appropriately chosen according to the emulsion to be obtained (W/O or O/W).

The emulsifiers are generally present in the composition in a proportion ranging from 0.1 % to 30% by weight and preferably from 0.2% to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

For the W/O emulsions, mention may, for example, be made, as emulsifiers, of dimethicone copolyols, such as the mixture of cyclomethicone and of dimethicone copolyol sold under the name DC 5225 C by the company Dow Corning, and alkyl dimethicone copolyols, such as the lauryl methicone copolyol sold under the name Dow Corning 5200 Formulation Aid by the company Dow Corning and the cetyl dimethicone copolyol sold under the name Abil EM 90^R by the company Goldschmidt, or the polyglyceryl-4 isostearate/cetyl dimethicone copolyol/hexyl laurate mixture sold under the name Abil WE 09 by the company Goldschmidt. One or more co-emulsifiers may also be added thereto. The co-emulsifier may be chosen advantageously from the group comprising polyol alkyl esters. Polyol alkyl esters that may especially be mentioned include glycerol and/or sorbitan esters, for example polyglyceryl isostearate, such as the product sold under the name Isolan Gl 34 by the company Goldschmidt, sorbitan isostearate, such as the product sold under the name Arlacel 987 by the company I CI , sorbitan glyceryl isostearate, such as the product sold under the name Arlacel 986 by the company I CI , and mixtures thereof.

For the O/W emulsions, mention may, for example, be made, as emulsifiers, of nonionic surfactants, and in particular esters of polyols and of fatty acids with a saturated or unsaturated chain containing, for example, from 8 to 24 carbon atoms and better still from 12 to 22 carbon atoms, and the oxyalkylenated derivatives thereof, i.e. derivatives containing oxyethylenated and/or oxypropylenated units, such as the glyceryl esters of C₈-C₂4 fatty acids, and the oxyalkylenated derivatives thereof; the polyethylene glycol esters of C₈-C₂4 fatty acids, and the oxyalkylenated derivatives thereof; the sorbitol esters of C₈-C₂4 fatty acids, and the oxyalkylenated derivatives thereof; fatty alcohol ethers; the sugar ethers of C₈-C₂4 fatty alcohols, and mixtures thereof.

Glyceryl esters of fatty acids that may especially be mentioned include glyceryl stearate (glyceryl monostearate, distearate and/or tristearate) (CTFA name: glyceryl stearate) or glyceryl ricinoleate, and mixtures thereof.

Polyethylene glycol esters of fatty acids that may especially be mentioned include polyethylene glycol stearate (polyethylene glycol monostearate, distearate and/or tristearate) and more especially polyethylene glycol 50 OE monostearate (CTFA name: PEG-50 stearate) and polyethylene glycol 100 OE monostearate (CTFA name: PEG-100 stearate), and mixtures thereof.

Mixtures of these surfactants may also be used, for instance the product containing glyceryl stearate and PEG-100 stearate, sold under the name Arlacel 165 by the company Uniqema, and the product containing glyceryl stearate (glyceryl mono- distearate) and potassium stearate, sold under the name Tegin by the company Goldschmidt (CTFA name: glyceryl stearate SE).

Examples of fatty alcohol ethers that may be mentioned include polyethylene glycol ethers of fatty alcohols containing from 8 to 30 carbon atoms and especially from 10 to 22 carbon atoms, such as polyethylene glycol ethers of cetyl alcohol, of stearyl alcohol or of cetearyl alcohol (mixture of cetyl alcohol and stearyl alcohol). Examples that may be mentioned include ethers comprising from 1 to 200 and preferably from 2 to 100 oxyethylene groups, such as those of CTFA name Ceteareth-20 and Ceteareth-30, and mixtures thereof.

By way of examples of sugar mono- or polyalkyl esters or ethers, mention may be made of the methylglucose isostearate sold under the name Isolan-IS by the company Degussa Goldschmidt, or else the sucrose distearate sold under the name Crodesta F50 by the company Croda, and the sucrose stearate sold under the name Ryoto sugar ester S 1570 by the company Mitsubishi Kagaku Foods.

Mention may also be made of lipoamino acids and salts thereof, such as monosodium and disodium acylglutamates, for instance the monosodium stearoyl glutamate sold under the name Amisoft HS-1 1 PF and the disodium stearoyl glutamate sold under the name Amisoft HS-21 P by the company Ajinomoto.

In a known manner, all the compositions of the invention can contain one or more of the adjuvants that are customary in the cosmetic and dermatological fields, hydrophilic or lipophilic gelling agents and/or thickeners; moisturizers; emollients; hydrophilic or lipophilic active agents; free radical scavengers; sequestering agents; antioxidants; preservatives; basifying or acidifying agents; fragrances; film-forming agents; colorants (pigments such as iron oxides and titanium dioxide, nacres, soluble dyes), fillers; and mixtures thereof.

The amounts of these various adjuvants are those conventionally used in the fields under consideration. In particular, the amounts of active agents vary according to the desired objective and are those conventionally used in the fields under consideration, and for example from 0.1 % to 20%, and preferably from 0.5% to 10% by weight of the total weight of the composition.

Active agents

By way of example of an active agent, mention may be made, in a nonlimiting manner, of ascorbic acid and derivatives thereof such as 5,6-di-O-dimethylsilyl ascorbate (sold by the company Exsymol under the reference PRO-AA), the potassium salt of dl-alpha- tocopheryl-2l-ascorbyl phosphate (sold by the company Senju Pharmaceutical under the reference Sepivital EPC), magnesium ascorbyl phosphate, sodium ascorbyl phosphate (sold by the company Roche under the reference Stay-C 50); phloroglucinol; enzymes; and mixtures thereof. Among the hydrophilic active agents sensitive to oxidation, ascorbic acid is used according to one preferred embodiment of the invention. The ascorbic acid can be of any nature. Thus, it may be of natural origin in powder form or in the form of orange juice, preferably orange juice concentrate. It may also be of synthetic origin, preferably in powder form.

As other active agents that can be used in the composition of the invention, mention may be made, for example, of moisturizing agents, such as protein hydrolysates and polyols, for instance glycerol, glycols, for instance polyethylene glycols; natural extracts; antiinflammatories; oligomeric proanthocyanidins; vitamins such as vitamin A (retinol), vitamin E (tocopherol), vitamin B5 (panthenol), vitamin B3 (niacinamide), derivatives of these vitamins (in particular esters) and mixtures thereof; urea; caffeine; depigmenting agents such as kojic acid, hydroquinone and caffeic acid; salicylic acid and derivatives thereof; alpha-hydroxy acids, such as lactic acid and glycolic acid and derivatives thereof; retinoids, such as carotenoids and vitamin A derivatives; hydrocortisone; melatonin; extracts of algae, of fungi, of plants, of yeasts, of bacteria; steroids; antibacterial active agents, such as 2,4,4'-trichloro-2'-hydroxy diphenyl ether (or triclosan), 3,4,4'- trichlorocarbanilide (or triclocarban) and the acids indicated above, and in particular salicylic acid and derivatives thereof; matting agents, for instance fibers; tensioning agents; UV-screening agents; and mixtures thereof.

Needless to say, a person skilled in the art will take care to select the optional adjuvant(s) added to the composition according to the invention such that the advantageous properties intrinsically associated with the composition in accordance with the invention are not, or are not substantially, adversely affected by the envisaged addition.

The examples that follow will allow the invention to be understood more clearly, without, however, being limiting in nature. The amounts indicated are given as % by weight of commercial material, unless otherwise mentioned. The names of the compounds are indicated as INCI names.

EXAMPLES

The more sensitive the composition is to electrolytes, the greater the quick break effect. This effect can be correlated with the drop in viscosity of the composition in the presence of electrolytes. For the present invention, the quick break effect on application to the skin is considered, and this was illustrated by studying the drop in viscosity in the presence of sodium chloride at 0.1 % (salt composition of sweat).

Comparative examples 1 to 5

The following composition is prepared.

2 4 (invention) 5 (invention)

1

(outside

Composition (outside the 3 (invention)

the

invention)

SODIUM ACRYLATE CROSSPOLYMER-2

(AQUAKEEP® 10 SH

1 % - 0.5% 0.7% 0.3% NF sold by the

company Sumimoto

Seika)

SODIUM

POLYACRYLATE

(COSMEDIA SP® - 1 % 0.5% 0.3% 0.7% sold by the company

Cog n is)

q.s. for q.s. for

water q.s. for 100 g q.s. for 100 g q.s. for 100 g

100 g 100 g

preserving agents qs for qs for qs for qs for qs for

Viscosity measured

with a Rheomat 157 107 107 150 1 14

RM180 at 25°C at 10 (6280 CPs) (4280 CPs) (4280 CPs) (6000 CPs) (4560 CPs) minutes

Addition of 0.1 % NaCI Viscosity measured

with a Rheomat 64 84 31 51 44

RM180 at 25°C at 10 (2490 CPs) (3330 CPs) (1 1 10 cPss) (1950 CPs) (1660 CPs) minutes

Measured viscosity

loss

60% 22% 74% 67.5% 63.5%

=> Quick Break

effect

0.5 x 60 + 0.7 x 60 + 0.3 x 60 +

Theoretical

0.5 x 22 0.3 x 22 0.7 x 22 viscosity loss

1. e. 44% 1. e. 48.6% 1. e. 33.4%

It is observed that compositions 3, 4 and 5 according to the invention exhibit a weaker resistance to electrolytes than compositions 1 and 2. Compositions 3, 4 and 5 thus clearly exhibit a greater quick break effect than compositions 1 and 2.

In addition, this quick break effect is clearly synergistic, the drops in viscosity measured for compositions 3, 4 and 5 being significantly greater than the theoretical drops in viscosity calculated (by linearization according to the compositions). Comparative examples 6 and 7 - fresh moisturizing jelly

The following compositions are prepared.

6 7

Composition

% by weight % by weight

BEHENYL ALCOHOL (and) GLYCERYL STEARATE (and)

DISODIUM ETHYLENE DICOCAMIDE PEG-15 DISULFATE

2 2

(and) GLYCERYL STEARATE CITRATE (Ceralution H from

Sasol)

CETYL ALCOHOL 0.5 0.5

ISONONYL ISONONANOATE 4 4

HYDROGENATED POLYISOBUTENE 5 5

SYNTHETIC WAX 2 2

METHYLPARABEN 0.25 0.25

PHENOXYETHANOL 7 7

ETHYLPARABEN 0.25 0.25

AQUA q.s. for 100 q.s. for 100

DISODIUM EDTA 0.1 0.1

XANTHAN GUM 0.1 0.1

GLYCERIN 15 15 SODIUM ACRYLATES CROSSPOLYMER-2 (and) AQUA

(and) SILICA (AQUAKEEP® 10 SH NF sold by the company 0.4 0.8

Sumimoto Seika

SODIUM POLYACRYLATE (COSMEDIA SP® sold by the

0.4 - company Cognis)

Composition 6 according to the invention has a better quick break effect and spreads more easily than comparative composition 7.

Comparative examples 8 and 9 - fresh screening cream

The following compositions are prepared.

Composition 8 according to the invention has a better quick break effect and spreads more easily than comparative composition 9. Comparative examples 10 to 12 - 2-in-1 makeup remover + moisturizing care product

The following compositions are prepared.

Compositions 1 1 and 12 according to the invention differ from composition 10 (outside the invention) by virtue of a more aqueous effect (despite less water in the composition), hence a greater freshness on application.

Claims

1 . A composition for topical application, comprising at least one aqueous phase, at least one superabsorbent polymer and at least one nonsuperabsorbent polymer chosen from acrylic acid homopolymers or copolymers which are at least partially neutralized.

2. The composition according to claim 1 , in which the superabsorbent polymer(s) is (are) a polymer that is capable in its dry form of spontaneously absorbing at least 20 times its own weight of aqueous fluid, in particular of water.

3. The composition according to any of claims 1 and 2, in which the superabsorbent polymer(s) is (are), in the dry state, in the form of particles with a weight-average size of less than or equal to 100 μηη and preferably less than or equal to 50 μηι.

4. The composition according to any of claims 1 to 3, in which the superabsorbent polymer(s) is (are), once hydrated, in the form of particles with a weight-average size ranging from 10 μηη to 1000 μηη.

5. The composition according to any of claims 1 to 4, in which the superabsorbent polymer(s) has (have) a water-absorbing capacity of from 10 to 100 g/g, preferably from

20 to 80 g/g and better still from 40 to 80 g/g.

6. The composition according to any of claims 1 to 5, in which the superabsorbent polymer(s) is (are) chosen from crosslinked sodium polyacrylates, starches grafted with an acrylic polymer, hydrolyzed starches grafted with an acrylic polymer and especially the acryloacrylamide/sodium acrylate copolymer, and polymers based on starch, on gum and on cellulose derivative, and mixtures thereof.

7. The composition according to any of claims 1 to 6, in which the superabsorbent polymer(s) is (are) chosen from crosslinked acrylic homopolymers or copolymers, which have preferably been neutralized.

8. The composition according to any of claims 1 to 7, in which the superabsorbent polymer(s) is (are) chosen from crosslinked sodium polyacrylates.

9. The composition according to any of claims 1 to 8, in which the superabsorbent polymer(s) is (are) in the form of spherical particles.

10. The composition according to any of claims 1 to 9, in which the superabsorbent polymer(s) is (are) present in an active material content ranging from 0.05% to 5% by weight, preferably from 0.05% to 3% by weight, preferentially ranging from 0.05% to 1 % by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

1 1 . The composition according to any of claims 1 to 10, in which the nonsuperabsorbent polymer(s) is (are) nonamphiphilic hydrophilic polymers.

12. The composition according to any of claims 1 to 1 1 , in which the nonsuperabsorbent polymer(s) is (are) in a particulate form, their average size in the hydrated state preferably being less than or equal to 10 μηη, even more preferentially less than or equal to 5 μηη, and their average size in the dry and nonhydrated state preferably being less than or equal to 2 μηη, even more preferentially less than or equal to 1 μηη.

13. The composition according to any of claims 1 to 12, in which the nonsuperabsorbent polymer(s) is (are) chosen from acrylic acid homopolymers which are at least partially neutralized.

14. The composition according to any of claims 1 to 13, in which the nonsuperabsorbent polymer(s) is (are) present in an active material content ranging from 0.05% to 5% by weight, preferably from 0.05% to 3% by weight, preferentially ranging from 0.05% to 1 % by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

15. The composition according to any of claims 1 to 14, in which the superabsorbent polymer(s) and the nonsuperabsorbent polymer(s) are present in an amount such that the total active content of polymers is between 0.1 % and 5% by weight, preferably 0.1 % and 3% by weight, preferentially 0.1 % and 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

16. The composition according to any of claims 1 to 15, in which the weight ratio of the superabsorbent polymer(s) to the nonsuperabsorbent polymer(s) is between 0.05:1 and 1 :0.05, preferably 0.2:1 and 1 :0.2.

17. A cosmetic treatment process for a keratin material, in which a cosmetic composition as defined in any one of claims 1 to 16 is applied to the keratin material.

18. The use of a cosmetic composition as defined in any one of claims 1 to 16, in the cosmetic or dermatological field, and in particular for caring for, protecting and/or making up bodily or facial skin, or for haircare.