WO2012120114A1 - Procédé de traitement cosmétique de la transpiration humaine qui comprend l'application d'un film polymère antiperspirant solubilisable - Google Patents

Procédé de traitement cosmétique de la transpiration humaine qui comprend l'application d'un film polymère antiperspirant solubilisable Download PDF

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Publication number
WO2012120114A1
WO2012120114A1 PCT/EP2012/054096 EP2012054096W WO2012120114A1 WO 2012120114 A1 WO2012120114 A1 WO 2012120114A1 EP 2012054096 W EP2012054096 W EP 2012054096W WO 2012120114 A1 WO2012120114 A1 WO 2012120114A1
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WIPO (PCT)
Prior art keywords
film
skin
cosmetic
treatment method
cosmetic treatment
Prior art date
Application number
PCT/EP2012/054096
Other languages
English (en)
Inventor
Henri Samain
Guillaume Kergosien
Original Assignee
L'oreal
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Publication date
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Publication of WO2012120114A1 publication Critical patent/WO2012120114A1/fr

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Classifications

    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/90—Block copolymers
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/33—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
    • A61K8/34—Alcohols
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q15/00—Anti-perspirants or body deodorants
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K2800/00—Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
    • A61K2800/80—Process related aspects concerning the preparation of the cosmetic composition or the storage or application thereof
    • A61K2800/88—Two- or multipart kits
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K2800/00—Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
    • A61K2800/80—Process related aspects concerning the preparation of the cosmetic composition or the storage or application thereof
    • A61K2800/88—Two- or multipart kits
    • A61K2800/882—Mixing prior to application
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K2800/00—Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
    • A61K2800/80—Process related aspects concerning the preparation of the cosmetic composition or the storage or application thereof
    • A61K2800/88—Two- or multipart kits
    • A61K2800/884—Sequential application

Definitions

  • Meth od for the cosm etic treatment of hum an perspiration comp rising the application of a solubilizable antiperspirant p olym er film
  • the present invention relates to a method for the cosmetic treatment of human perspiration and optionally body odours linked to human perspiration, especially auxiliary odours, comprising a step consi sting in applying an antiperspirant cosmetic polymer film to the skin, and a step consi sting in partially di ssolving said film so that the film adheres to the skin.
  • the armpits and also certain other parts of the body are generally the site of much di scomfort that may ari se directly or indirectly from perspiration.
  • Thi s perspiration often leads to unpleasant and di sagreeable sensations that are mainly due to the presence of sweat resulting from perspiration, which may, in certain cases, make the skin and clothing wet, especially in the regi on of the armpits or on the back, thus leaving unattractive vi sible marks.
  • the presence of sweat generally gives rise to the production of body odours, which are generally unpleasant.
  • sweat may also leave salts and/or proteins on the surface of the skin, which may result in whitish marks on clothing. Such di scomfort is noticed, including in the case of moderate perspiration.
  • antiperspirant products containing sub stances that have the effect of limiting or even preventing the flow of sweat in order to overcome the problems mentioned ab ove.
  • These products are generally available in the form of roll-ons, sticks, aerosol s or sprays .
  • Antiperspirant sub stances are generally formed from aluminium salts, such as aluminium chloride and aluminium hydroxyhalides, or complexes of aluminium and zirconium. These sub stances reduce the flow of sweat by forming a plug in the sweat duct.
  • these antiperspirant sub stances may al so leave marks during their application to the skin, which has the consequence of staining clothing.
  • limiting the flow of sweat may be achieved by partially ob structing the sweat ducts by means of forming a plug in the sweat duct, but al so by forming at the surface of the skin a film that i s resi stant to sweat.
  • many approaches directed towards covering the surface of the skin with a film have been developed in order to limit the flow of sweat.
  • US 5 508 024 describ e antiperspirant compositions essentially compri sing, in a cosmetically acceptable medium, at least one water-insoluble nontoxic polymer that i s capable of forming an antiperspirant occlusive film on the skin.
  • the water-insoluble polymers used in such compositions are solubilized or di spersed in a medium based on alcohols, especially aliphatic alcohols containing short alkyl chains, and form a flexible occlusive film on the skin.
  • Patent application US 2003/01 94387 describes an antiperspirant composition for topical application compri sing, in a cosmetically acceptable medium, at least one active antiperspirant sub stance, which i s chosen especially from aluminium salts, and at least one water-insoluble non-toxic polyester that is capable of forming an occlusive film on the skin.
  • the film thus formed following application of the polyester to the skin, has the purpose of reinforcing the efficacy of the aluminium salts and of being able to formulate compositions having low contents of aluminium salts.
  • patent application US 6 387 356 describes a composition compri sing, in a medium comprising alcoholic solvents, at least one cellulo se ester that is soluble in an aqueous-alcoholic medium, capable of forming a thin film on the surface of the skin, and at least one antiperspirant sub stance that is generally chosen from aluminium salts .
  • patent application DE 2 947 060 describes a composition, in particular a composition packaged in an aerosol devi ce, compri sing at least one acrylic polymer capable of forming a film on the skin and at least one antiperspirant sub stance, which may especially be aluminium salts .
  • compositions comprising fatty sub stances capable of forming an occlusive layer on the skin .
  • international patent application WO 00/ 13653 describes a composition with the consi stency of a gel, compri sing (a) at least one volatile or nonvolatile organosilicon compound and (b) at least one gelling agent compri sing a non-volatile organosilicon compound containing an aliphati c hydrocarbon-based chain.
  • the film formed after applying these compositions to the skin has a tendency to degrade easily, which means that the desired antiperspirant effects are not entirely sati sfactory.
  • patent application US 93 /8753 8 describes the use of a polymer such as a cellulo se ester, which forms a film on the skin that ab sorb s perspiration.
  • the film formed on the skin is not entirely sati sfactory since the amount of water to be ab sorbed i s generally greater than the amount of water that can be ab sorb ed by such compounds .
  • anhydrous, non-adhesive antiperspirant compositions comprising at least one water-reactive cyanoacrylate monomer, an anhydrous medium, a polymerization inhibitor and an active sub stance chosen from a deodorant sub stance, an antiperspirant sub stance and a fragrancing sub stance, or a mixture of these sub stances.
  • the cyanoacrylate monomers used in such compositions polymerize anioni cally directly on the surface of the skin in the presence of a nucleophilic agent, such as hydroxide ions (OH " ) contained in water, to form a water-resi stant polymer film.
  • a nucleophilic agent such as hydroxide ions (OH " ) contained in water
  • the patches capable of ab sorbing perspiration generally compri se an adhesive layer and an ab sorbent layer placed on an aerated support, for example a fabric.
  • Such patches are commercially available.
  • the ab sorbent layer is generally thick due to the large amounts of sweat to be ab sorb ed, which makes the use of these patches vi sible and not very attractive .
  • Such patches are especially used in cases of excessive perspiration, such as hyperhidrosi s .
  • the impermeable patches capable of blocking sweat output generally compri se a layer constituted of an impermeable material and a highly adhesive layer.
  • Such patches must be thin enough and elastic enough not to hamper the movements of the skin.
  • patent application US 2010/01 89753 describes a thin patch produced from a pressure- sensitive adhesive layer
  • patent application US 2006/0041987 relates to a patch produced from the superposition of an adhesive layer, an ab sorbant layer and an impermeable film .
  • the impermeable patches must especially have a certain resi stance and a highly adhesive layer in order to be abl e to effectively block flows of water. As a result, impermeable patches are generally difficult to remove due to their highly adhesive nature.
  • patches intended to deposit antiperspirant active agents on the skin have al so been developed, i. e. patches that act as a means of application.
  • patent application US 2007/0053959 describes an antiperspirant/deodorant strip intended to be applied to the skin, which may be oval or rectangular.
  • the applicant has di scovered, surpri singly, that by carrying out a process in which use i s made, on the skin, of an antiperspirant polymer film that is partially di ssolved on contact with a cosmetic composition containing one or more solvents so that the film adheres to the skin, it was possible to obtain the desired properties, i . e . a film capable of effectively blocking the flow of sweat, the resi stance of which is improved, and for which the application to and the removal from the skin are facilitated.
  • the applicant has ob served that by applying an antiperspirant cosmetic polymer material in the form of a film and by arranging for a portion of thi s material to dissolve on contact with a cosmetic composition containing one or more solvents, it was possible to have a film that is pressed easily onto the skin, the resi stance of which is improved over time and the permeability to water vapour and the impermeability to sweat of whi ch are sati sfactory.
  • the partial di ssolution of the antiperspirant cosmetic film takes place at the moment when the film i s brought into contact with the cosmetic composition containing the solvent(s) and occurs either before, after or during the application of the film to the skin.
  • the partial di ssolution of the antiperspirant cosmetic film makes it possible to effectively press the film onto the skin without using an adhesive layer.
  • the partial dissolution that occurs at the moment of the film coming into contact with the composition compri sing the solvent(s) makes it possible to make the film adhere to the skin in the ab sence of an adhesive layer within its structure.
  • the film does not fragment and the di ssolved portion will enable the film to adhere to the skin in a sati sfactory manner.
  • the adhesion of the film to the skin is strengthened and results in an effect of temporary binding to the skin.
  • the antiperspirant film thus deposited on the skin has a sati sfactory controlled permeability, in particular permeable to water vapour and impermeable to sweat.
  • the antiperspirant film remains easy to remove from the skin and i s easily eliminated by means of a solvent. Given that the antiperspirant film does not require the use of an adhesive layer, the film can be easily removed without leaving traces of adhesive compounds on the skin. Moreover, the film thus deposited on the skin has a sati sfactory resi stance, especi ally relative to the pressure exerted by water droplets, by the movements of the body or by sweat leaving the skin pores, which makes it possible to block perspiration in a long-lasting manner.
  • the cosmetic treatment method according to the present invention makes it possible to result in a better blocking of the perspiration compared to a process in which an identical film i s applied straight to the skin without partial di ssolution with a composition containing one or more cosmetically acceptable solvents .
  • One particular subj ect of the present invention i s therefore a method for the cosmetic treatment of human perspiration and optionally body odours linked to human perspiration, especially auxiliary odours, compri sing :
  • step consi sting in partially di ssolving said film on contact with a cosmetic composition containing one or more cosmetically acceptabl e solvents prior to, during or sub sequent to the application of said film to the skin so that said film adheres to the skin.
  • the cosmetic polymer film according to the present invention may be partially di ssolved either separately relative to its application to the skin, i . e . the film i s first partially di ssolved by bringing it into contact with the solvent(s) and the partially dissolved film is then applied to the skin, or, at the time of its application to the skin, i . e. the solvent(s) i s (are) applied to the skin and then the film i s applied, or after its application to the skin, i . e . firstly the film is applied to the skin and then the solvent(s) i s (are) applied.
  • the cosmetic treatment method according to the present invention uses : (a) a step consi sting in applying to the skin a cosmetic composition compri sing one or more cosmetically acceptable solvents, then a step consi sting in applying, to the area of the skin treated with the sai d solvent(s), an antiperspirant cosmetic polymer film so that said film adheres to the skin, said film being partially di ssolved at the time of its application to the skin, or
  • step consi sting in applying an antiperspirant cosmetic polymer film to the skin followed by a step consi sting in applying, to the area of the skin covered by said film, a cosmetic composition comprising one or more cosmetically acceptable solvents so that said film adheres to the skin, said film being partially di ssolved after its application to the skin, or
  • step consi sting in bringing an antiperspirant cosmetic polymer film into contact with a cosmetic composition comprising one or more cosmetically acceptable solvents so as to partially di ssolve said film, and a step consi sting in applying said film to the skin.
  • partially di ssolved is understood, within the meaning of the present invention, to mean that only a small portion of the cosmetic film i s solubilized, without the rest of the film di sintegrating, i . e. the rest of the film retains its integrity and does not fragment.
  • solubilization of the film is not immediate and complete when it is brought into contact with the cosmetic composition containing the solvent(s), i. e. the film does not completely di ssolve immediately.
  • a portion of the film is di ssolved on contact with the cosmetic composition containing the solvent(s) so as to enable the rest of the film to adhere to the skin.
  • the portion of the film not dissolved remains grippable.
  • a person skilled in the art will in particular take care to select the thickness of the film, the nature of the solvent and al so the material forming the film so that only one portion of the film i s solubilized and the other portion of the film adheres to the skin.
  • the expression "partially di ssolved" i s understood to mean that the film i s solubilized in an amount of less than 40% by weight, and better still in an amount ranging from 5% to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the film .
  • the cosmetic treatment method according to the present invention uses a cosmetic composition containing one or more cosmetically acceptable organic solvents .
  • cosmetically acceptable solvent is understood to mean a solvent that i s compatible with the skin and keratin material s .
  • the solvent(s) may be water and one or more organic solvents .
  • the cosmetic composition compri ses one or more organic solvents .
  • organic solvents that may advantageously be used, mention may especially be made of alcohols such as ethanol, i sopropanol, benzyl alcohol, phenylethyl alcohol, the alcohol 1 ,2, 3 -propanetriol or glycols or glycol ethers such as, for example, ethylene glycol monomethyl , monoethyl and monobutyl ethers, propylene glycol, butylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, and al so diethylene glycol monobutyl ether.
  • alcohols such as ethanol, i sopropanol, benzyl alcohol, phenylethyl alcohol, the alcohol 1 ,2, 3 -propanetriol or glycols or glycol ethers such as, for example, ethylene glycol monomethyl , monoethyl and monobutyl ethers, propylene glycol, butylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, and al so diethylene glycol monobutyl ether.
  • the organic solvent(s) may be chosen from alcohol s such as ethanol, glycol, glycerol or mixtures thereof.
  • the solvent(s) may be chosen from solvents capable of being able to be partly ab sorbed by the skin, such as glycol or glycerol.
  • the cosmetic composition containing the cosmetically acceptabl e solvent(s) may al so contain one or more standard additives that are well known in the art, such as natural or synthetic thickeners or vi scosity regulators, ceramides or pseudoceramides, sequestrants, solubilizers, proteins, reducing agents or antioxidants, oxidizing agents, vitamins or provitamins, cationic or amphoteric polymers, fragrances, pH stabilizers, preserving agents, moi sturizers, antiperspirant active agents, antibacterial agents, deodorizing active agents such as cyclodextrin, dyes, depilatory agents or agents that prepare the hairs for depilation, or mixtures thereof.
  • standard additives that are well known in the art, such as natural or synthetic thickeners or vi scosity regulators, ceramides or pseudoceramides, sequestrants, solubilizers, proteins, reducing agents or antioxidants, oxidizing agents, vitamins or provitamins, cationic or amphoter
  • thickener means any compound whose presence increases the vi scosity of the composition into which it is introduced by at least 25 cps and preferably 50 cps at 25 °C and at a shear rate of 1 s " 1 .
  • the thickener(s) may be chosen from cellulose-based thickeners, for exampl e hydroxyethyl cellulose, hydroxypropyl cellulo se and carboxymethyl cellulose, guar gum and derivatives thereof, for example the hydroxypropyl guar sold by the company Rhodia under the reference Jaguar HP 105 , gums of microbial origin, such as xanthan gum and scleroglucan gum, synthetic thickeners such as crosslinked acrylic acid or acrylamidopropanesulphonic acid homopolymers, for example Carbomer, nonionic, anionic, cationi c or amphoteric associative polymers, such as the polymers sold under the names Pemul en TR 1 or TR2 by the company Goodrich, Salcare S C90 by the company Ciba, Aculyn 22, 28 , 33 , 44 or 46 by the company Rohm & Haas, and Elfacos T210 and T212 by the company Akzo.
  • the thickener(s) that may be used in the cosmetic composition according to the invention are chosen from cellulose-based thickeners, in particular hydroxyalkyl celluloses.
  • the thickener(s) are chosen from hydroxyethyl cellulo se, hydroxypropyl cellulo se and carboxymethyl cellulose, in particular hydroxyethyl cellulo se.
  • the thickener(s) make it possible to facilitate the application of the cosmetic composition containing the solvent(s) and to limit its drying.
  • the cosmetic composition contains ethanol and one or more thickeners chosen from cellulo se-based thickeners, in particular hydroxyalkyl cellulo ses, especially the hydroxypropyl cellulo se sold under the trade name Klucel .
  • the antiperspirant active agent(s) that can be used in the composition containing the solvent(s) may be chosen from aluminium salts and/or zirconium salts, complexes of zirconium hydroxychloride and of aluminium hydroxychloride with an amino acid and/or mixtures thereof.
  • aluminium salts mention may especially be made of aluminium chlorohydrate in activated or unactivated form, aluminium chlorohydrex, the aluminium chlorohydrex-polyethylene glycol compl ex, the aluminium chlorohydrex-propylene glycol complex, aluminium dichlorohydrate, the aluminium dichlorohydrex-polyethylene glycol complex, the aluminium dichlorohydrex-propylene glycol complex, aluminium sesquichlorohydrate, the aluminium sesquichlorohydrex- polyethylene glycol complex, the aluminium sesquichlorohydrex-propylene glycol complex, aluminium sulphate buffered with sodium aluminium lactate.
  • aluminium-zirconium salts mention may be made in particular of aluminium zirconium octachlorohydrate, aluminium zirconium pentachlorohydrate, aluminium zirconium tetrachlorohydrate and aluminium zirconium trichlorohydrate.
  • the complexes of zirconium hydroxychloride and of aluminium hydroxychloride with an amino acid are generally known under the name ZAG (when the amino acid i s glycine) .
  • aluminium zirconium octachlorohydrex-glycine complexes mention may be made of the aluminium zirconium octachlorohydrex-glycine complexes, the aluminium zirconium pentachlorohydrex-glycine complexes, the aluminium zirconium tetrachlorohydrex-glycine complexes and the aluminium zirconium trichlorohydrex-glycine complexes .
  • the antiperspirant active agent(s) may be chosen from aluminium chlorohydrates and the complexes containing them used in the pressure-sensitive adhesive layer, mention may be made of the following sub stances used and approved by the FDA (Food & Drug Admini stration) : aluminium chlorohydrate, aluminium chlorohydrex-PEG, aluminium chlorohydrex-PG, aluminium di chlorohydrate, aluminium di chlorohydrex- PEG, aluminium di chlorohydrex-PG, aluminium sesquichlorohydrate, aluminium sesquichlorohydrex-PEG, aluminium sesquichlorohydrex-PG, aluminium zirconium octachlorohydrate, aluminium zirconium octachlorohydrex-GLY, aluminium zirconium pentachlorohydrate, aluminium zirconium pentachlorohydrex-GLY, aluminium zirconium tetrachlorohydrate, aluminium zirconium trichlorohydrate, aluminium zirconium t
  • the additives are generally present in the composition according to the invention in an amount ranging from 0 to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the solvent(s) may be present in the cosmetic composition in a content ranging from 5% to 100% by weight and preferably from 20% to 90% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the cosmetic treatment method according to the invention compri ses a step that consi sts in applying an antiperspirant cosmetic polymer film to the skin.
  • the term “film” means a thin and grippable soli d.
  • the term “thin” means a soli d having a thickness of at most 1000 ⁇ .
  • the film generally has a size suitable for being able to be handled easily by the user. It may have a square, rectangular or di sc shape, or any other shape.
  • the thickness of the cosmetic film i s chosen so that the latter i s partially di ssolved when it is brought into contact with a composition containing one or more solvents .
  • the polymer film has a thickness ranging from 1 0 ⁇ to 1000 ⁇ , preferentially from 20 ⁇ to 500 ⁇ and more preferentially from 50 ⁇ to 300 ⁇ . It may have a surface area ranging from 10 to 800 cm 2 and preferably from 100 to 600 cm 2 .
  • the film may be used on vi sible areas of the skin, such as the face and the chest due to its small thickness .
  • antiperspirant film means a film capable, by itself, of reducing or limiting the flow of sweat.
  • the antiperspirant film according to the present invention corresponds to the antiperspirant active agent responsible of the reduction or the limitation of the flow of sweat.
  • the antiperspirant film i s the sole antiperspirant active agent.
  • the antiperspirant film of the present invention i s free from any additional antiperspirant active agent.
  • polymer film means a film made from a polymer materi al that is obtained from a cosmetic composition containing one or more film-forming polymers .
  • the polymer film once it is formed, i s applied to the skin.
  • a polymer material is formed from a cosmetic composition containing one or more film- forming polymers that may or may not be used directly as a polymer film in accordance with the treatment method according to the present invention.
  • the cosmetic composition containing one or more film-forming polymers may lead to the formation of a polymer layer that may be deposited on a smooth, non-porous and non-adhesive support so as to produce a film having a particular thickness.
  • film-forming polymer means a polymer that i s capable, by itself or in the presence of an auxiliary film-forming agent, of forming a separable, in particular continuous film on a support, especially on keratin material s or the skin.
  • the film-forming polymer(s) is (are) water-soluble.
  • water-soluble means polymers having a solubility in water, measured at 25 °C, whi ch i s at least equal to 10 gram/litre (g/1) (production of a macroscopically i sotropic and transparent, coloured or colourless solution) .
  • Thi s solubility i s preferably greater than or equal to 100 g/1.
  • the water-soluble film-forming polymers according to the invention are in particular chosen from:
  • Copolymers of vinyl acetate and of a hydrophilic monomer such as copolymers of vinyl acetate and of vinylpyrrolidone, and copolymers of vinyl acetate and of vinyl alcohol, the proportion of vinyl acetate monomer preferably being greater than 30% .
  • Such compounds are especially available from the company BASF under the reference Luvi skol VA 64 Powder.
  • Polysaccharides or derivatives of polysaccharides such as hydroxyethyl cellulose, hydroxypropyl cellulo se, carboxymethyl cellulo se and carboxyethyl cellulo se.
  • the film-forming polymer(s) is (are) water-di spersible.
  • water- di spersible means polymers in the form of particles in di spersion in an aqueous phase (production of a macroscopically non-transparent, coloured or colourless solution) .
  • the water-dispersible film-forming polymers according to the invention are in particular chosen from:
  • hydrophilic monomers chosen from hydroxyalkyl (meth)acrylate such as hydroxyethyl (meth)acrylate and hydroxypropyl (meth)acrylate
  • aminoalkyl (meth)acrylates such as dimethylaminoethyl (meth)acrylate and butylaminoethyl (meth)acrylate.
  • Such compounds are especially available from the company Interpolymer under the reference Syntran PC 5 1 00.
  • Polycondensates such as polyesters, polyamides and polyurethanes .
  • the polycondensates are chosen from di spersions of polyurethane in water.
  • Such compounds are especially available from the company Bayer under the commerci al Baycusan range.
  • the water-solubl e or water- di spersible polymers are chosen from polymers that swell slightly or not at all on contact with water, and polymers that are slowly solubilized in water.
  • the water-soluble polymers are chosen from polymers that are slowly solubilized in water, especially in an amount of 50% after 10 seconds to 10 minutes .
  • the film-forming polymer(s) are chosen from polymers that are insoluble in water and soluble in an organic solvent.
  • the expression " insoluble in water” means polymers having a solubility in water, measured at 25 ° C, of less than 10 gram/litre, preferably le ss than 1 gram/litre and for the purposes of the present invention the expression " soluble in in an organi c solvent” means polymers having a solubility in an organi c solvent, measured at 25 °C, of greater than 1 0 gram/litre, and preferably 1 00 gram/litre.
  • the film-forming polymer(s) that is (are) insoluble in water is (are) chosen from (meth)acrylate polymers or copolymers, polyurethanes, polyamides, polyesters, polymers of polyamide-polyether type and mixtures thereof.
  • the film-forming polymer(s) is (are) chosen from polymers of polyamide-polyether type .
  • the polymers of the polyamide-polyether type of the invention have a permeability to water vapour of greater than 1000 g/m 2 /24 h.
  • Thi s permeability is determined by measuring the amount of water vapour in grams that crosses 1 m 2 of coating in 24 hours, from a wet zone to a dry zone (ASTM E 96 E) .
  • the operating conditions adopted are a relative humidity percentage of 90% and a temperature of 38° C .
  • the measurement i s performed on a sample of coating 1 5 ⁇ thick.
  • the permeability measurement may be measured using permeability-measuring equipment such as the equipment bearing the reference PermeTM W3 -060 avail abl e from the company Labthink Instruments Co . Limited.
  • the polymers of polyamide-polyether type of the invention may be characterized by adhesion properties on the skin higher than the adhesion properties obtained with water-resi stant elastomeri c polymers such as certain di spersions of polyurethane in aqueous phase available especially under the reference Baycusan C l OO l from B ayer.
  • polyamide-polyether polymers of the invention are preferably chosen from copolymers bearing polyamide blocks (in particular polyamide-6 or polyamide- 12) and polyether blocks (in particular polyethylene glycol or polytetramethyl ene glycol) .
  • copolymers bearing polyamide blocks and polyether blocks according to the invention result from the copolycondensation of polyamide blocks bearing reactive ends with polyether blocks bearing reactive ends, such as, inter alia:
  • Polyamide blocks bearing dicarboxylic chain ends with polyoxyalkylene blocks bearing diamine chain ends obtained by cyanoethylation and hydrogenation of ⁇ , ⁇ -dihydroxylated aliphatic polyoxyalkyl ene blocks known as polyether diols.
  • the copolymers of the invention are advantageously of thi s type.
  • the polyamide blocks bearing dicarboxylic chain ends originate, for example, from the condensation of polyamide precursors in the presence of a chain-limiting dicarboxylic acid.
  • the polyamide blocks bearing diamine chain ends originate, for example from the condensation of polyamide precursors in the presence of a chain-limiting diamine.
  • the polymers bearing polyami de blocks and polyether blocks of the invention may also compri se randomly di stributed units. These polymers may be prepared by the simultaneous reaction of the polyether and of the precursors of the polyamide blocks .
  • polyether diol polyamide precursors
  • chain-limiting diacid a polymer is obtained essentially having polyether blocks and polyamide blocks of very variable length, but al so the various reagents that have reacted randomly, whi ch are di stributed randomly (statistically) along the polymer chain.
  • a polymer i s obtained essentially having polyether blocks and polyamide blocks of very variable length, but al so the various reagents that have reacted randomly, which are di stributed randomly (statistically) along the polymer chain.
  • Three types of polyamide block may advantageously be used.
  • the polyamide blocks originate from the condensation of a di carboxylic acid and a di amine.
  • the polyamide blocks result from the condensation of one or more ⁇ , ⁇ -aminocarboxylic acids and/or of one or more lactams containing from 6 to 12 carbon atoms in the presence of a dicarboxyli c aci d containing from 4 to 12 carbon atoms or of a diamine.
  • the polyamide blocks result from the condensation of at least one ⁇ , ⁇ -aminocarboxylic acid (or a lactam), at least one diamine and at least one dicarboxylic acid.
  • the polyamide blocks result from the condensation of at least two ⁇ , ⁇ -aminocarboxylic acids or from at least two lactams containing from 6 to 12 carbon atoms or from one lactam and one aminocarboxylic acid not having the same number of carbon atoms, in the optional presence of a chain limiter.
  • the polyamide blocks of the second type are made of polyamide-12 or polyamide-6.
  • polyamide blocks of the third type mention may be made of the following:
  • 6.6/Pip. 10/12 in which 6.6 denotes hexamethyleneadipamide units (hexamethylenediamine condensed with adipic acid).
  • Pip. 10 denotes units resulting from the condensation of piperazine and of sebacic acid.
  • 12 denotes units resulting from the condensation of lauryllactam.
  • the weight proportions are, respectively, 25 to 35/20 to 30/20 to 30; the total being 80, and advantageously 30 to 35/22 to 27/22 to 27; the total being 80.
  • 32/24/24 proportions give a melting point from 122 to 137°C.
  • 6.6 denotes hexamethylenediamine condensed with adipic acid
  • 6.10 denotes hexamethylenediamine condensed with sebacic acid
  • 11 denotes units resulting from the condensation of aminoundecanoic acid
  • 12 denotes units resulting from the condensation of lauryllactam.
  • the weight proportions are, respectively, 10 to 20/15 to 25/10 to 20/15 to 25; the total advantageously being 70: 12 to 16/18 to 25/12 to 16/18 to 25; the total being 70.
  • 14/21/14/21 proportions give a melting point from 119 to 131°C.
  • the polyamide blocks are obtained in the presence of a chain- limiting diacid or diamine if polyamide blocks bearing acid or amine ends are desired. If the precursors already comprise a diacid or a diamine, it suffices, for example, to use it in excess.
  • a diacid or a diamine By way of example of an aliphatic ⁇ , ⁇ -aminocarboxylic acid, mention may be made of aminocaproic acid, 7-aminoheptanoic acid, 11-aminoundecanoic acid and 12- aminododecanoic acid.
  • a lactam mention may be made of caprolactam, oenantholactam and lauryllactam.
  • aliphatic diamines mention may be made of hexamethylenediamine, dodecamethylenediamine and trimethylhexamethylenediamine.
  • cycloaliphatic diacids mention may be made of 1 ,4- cyclohexyldicarb oxyli c acid.
  • aliphatic diacids mention may be made of butanedioic acid, adipi c acid, azelaic acid, suberic aci d, sebacic acid, dodecanedicarboxylic acid, dimerized fatty acids (these dimerized fatty acids preferably have a dimer content of at least 98%; they are preferably hydrogenated; they are sold under the brand name Pripol by the company Unichema, or under the brand name Empol by the company Henkel) and ⁇ , ⁇ -diacid polyoxyalkylenes.
  • aromatic diacids mention may be made of terephthalic acid (T) and i sophthalic acid (I) .
  • the cycloaliphati c diamines may be isomers of bi s(4- aminocyclohexyl)methane (BACM), bis(3 -methyl-4- aminocyclohexyl)methane (BMACM), 2-2-bi s(3 -methyl-4- aminocyclohexyl)propane (BMACP) and /?ara-aminodicyclohexylmethane (PACM).
  • the other diamines commonly used may be i sophoronediamine (IPDA), 2, 6-bi s(aminomethyl)norbornane (BAMN) and piperazine.
  • the polyether blocks may represent 5% to 85% by weight of the copolymer b earing polyamide and polyether blocks.
  • the polyether blocks are formed from alkylene oxide units . These units may be, for example, ethylene oxide units, propylene oxide units or tetrahydrofuran (which leads to polytetramethylene glycol chains) .
  • the polyether blocks may al so be formed from ethoxylated primary amines.
  • the amount of polyether blocks in these copolymers bearing polyamide blocks and polyether blocks i advantageously from 10% to 70% by weight and preferably from 35% to 60% by weight of the copolymer.
  • the polyether diol blocks are either used in unmodified form and copolycondensed with polyamide blocks bearing carboxylic end group s, or they are aminated to be converted into polyetherdiamines and condensed with polyamide blocks bearing carboxylic end group s. They may al so be mixed with polyamide precursors and a chain-limiting diacid to make polymers bearing polyamide blocks and polyether blocks having randomly di stributed units .
  • the number-average molar mass Mn of the polyamide blocks i s between 500 and 10 000 and preferably between 500 and 4000, except for the polyamide blocks of the second type .
  • polymers bearing polyamide blocks and polyether blocks whether they originate from the copolycondensation of polyamide and polyether blocks prepared previously or from a one-step reaction, have, for example, an intrinsic vi scosity of between 0.8 and 2.5 measured in meta- cresol at 25 °C for an initial concentration of 0.8 g/ 100 ml .
  • copolymers bearing polyamide blocks and polyether blocks they may be prepared via any means for attaching polyamide blocks and polyether blocks .
  • the polyamide blocks are first made, and in a second step the polyamide blocks and the polyether blocks are then attached.
  • the polyamide precursors, the chain limiter and the polyether are mixed together; a polymer i s then obtained that has essentially polyether blocks and polyamide blocks of very variable length, but al so the various reagents that have reacted randomly, which are di stributed randomly (statistically) along the polymer chain.
  • copolymers bearing polyamide blocks in particular PA-6 or PA- 12
  • polyether blocks in particular polyethylene glycol or polytetramethylene glycol ether
  • the polymer according to the invention i s the reference Peb ax® 2533 SA 01 .
  • the polymer film i s formed from a cosmetic composition compri sing one or more film-forming polymers that are insoluble in water and soluble in an organi c solvent, especially those chosen from polymers of polyamide-polyether type .
  • the antiperspirant cosmetic film i s formed from a cosmetic composition containing one or more copolymers bearing polyamide blocks (in particular PA-6 or PA- 12) and polyether blocks .
  • the cosmetic composition containing one or more film-forming polymers may also contain one or more plasticizers .
  • the cosmetic composition containing one or more film-forming polymers may al so contain one or more standard additives that are well known in the art, such as natural or synthetic thickeners or vi scosity regulators, surfactants, ceramides or pseudoceramides, sequestrants, solubilizers, proteins, reducing agents or antioxidants, oxidizing agents, vitamins or provitamins, cationic or amphoteric polymers, fragrances, pH stabilizers, preserving agents, moi sturizers, antiperspirant active agents, antibacterial agents, deodorizing active agents such as cyclodextrin, ab sorbent powders, dyes, depilatory agents or agents that prepare the hairs for depilation, or mixtures thereof.
  • standard additives that are well known in the art, such as natural or synthetic thickeners or vi scosity regulators, surfactants, ceramides or pseudoceramides, sequestrants, solubilizers, proteins, reducing agents or antioxidants, oxidizing agents, vitamins or
  • the antiperspirant cosmetic film may contain the additives as described above.
  • the film may contain one or more surfactants whi ch may be released at the time of makeup removal to produce a washing or foaming effect.
  • the surfactant(s) is (are) chosen from cationic, anioni c, nonionic, amphoteric or zwitterioni c surfactants .
  • cationi c surfactant means a surfactant that i s positively charged when it i s contained in the composition according to the invention.
  • Thi s surfactant may bear one or more positive permanent charges or may contain one or more cationizable functions in the composition according to the invention.
  • cationic surfactants mention may be made especially of optionally polyoxyalkylenated primary, secondary or tertiary fatty amines, or salts thereof, and quaternary ammonium salts, and mixtures thereof.
  • Fatty amines generally compri se at least one C 8 - C 3 0 hydrocarbon- based chain.
  • fatty amines that can be used according to the invention, an example that may be mentioned i s stearyl amidopropyl dimethylamine.
  • quaternary ammonium salts examples include :
  • R 8 to Rn radicals which may be identical or different, represent a linear or branched aliphatic radical comprising from 1 to 30 carbon atoms, or an aromatic radical, such as aryl or alkylaryl, at least one of the R 8 to Rn radicals comprising from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably from 12 to 24 carbon atoms.
  • the aliphatic radicals may comprise heteroatoms especially such as oxygen, nitrogen, sulphur and halogens.
  • the aliphatic radicals are, for example, chosen from alkyl, alkoxy, polyoxy(C 2 -Ce)alkylene, alkyl amide, (Ci 2 -C 22 )alkylamido(C 2 -C6)alkyl, (Ci 2 -C 22 ) lkyl acetate or hydroxyalkyl radicals comprising approximately from 1 to 30 carbon atoms;
  • X " is an anion chosen from the group of the halides, phosphates, acetates, lactates, (C 2 -C 6 )alkyl sulphates, and alkyl sulphonates or alkylaryl sulphonates;
  • Ri 2 represents an alkenyl or alkyl radical comprising from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, for example derived from tallow fatty acids
  • Rn represents a hydrogen atom, a C 1 -C 4 alkyl radical or an alkenyl or alkyl radical comprising from 8 to 30 carbon atoms
  • Ri 4 represents a C 1 -C 4 alkyl radical
  • R15 represents a hydrogen atom or a C 1 -C 4 alkyl radical
  • X " is an anion chosen from the group of the halides, phosphates, acetates, lactates, alkyl sulphates, and alkyl or alkylaryl sulphonates .
  • R12 and Ri 3 denote a mixture of alkenyl or alkyl radi cal s comprising from 12 to 21 carbon atoms, for exampl e derived from tallow fatty acids, R14 denotes a methyl radical and R15 denotes a hydrogen atom.
  • R12 and Ri 3 denote a mixture of alkenyl or alkyl radi cal s comprising from 12 to 21 carbon atoms, for exampl e derived from tallow fatty acids, R14 denotes a methyl radical and R15 denotes a hydrogen atom.
  • Rewoquat® W 75 by the company Rewo;
  • Ri 6 denotes an alkyl radical containing approximately from 16 to 30 carbon atoms, which i s optionally hydroxylated and/or interrupted with one or more oxygen atom s and optionally branched, R17 i s selected from an alkyl radical containing from 1 to 4 carbon atoms or a group (Ri 6a) (Rl 7a) (Rl 8a)N -(CH 2 ) 3 -, Rl 6a, Rl 7a, R i 8a, Ri 8 , Ri 9 , R20 and R21 , which may be identical or different, are selected from hydrogen or an alkyl radical containing from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, and X " i s an anion selected from the group of halides, acetates, phosphates, nitrates and methyl sulphates.
  • Such compounds are, for example, Finquat CT-P, availabl e from the company Finetex (Quaternium 89), and Finquat CT, available
  • R 2 2 is chosen from Ci-C 6 alkyl radicals and Ci-C 6 hydroxyalkyl or dihydroxyalkyl radicals;
  • R 2 3 is chosen from:
  • R 27 which are linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated Ci-C 22 hydrocarbon-based radicals
  • R 2 5 is chosen from:
  • R 2 g which are linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated Ci-C 6 hydrocarbon-based radicals
  • R 2 4, R 2 6 and R 28 which are identical or different, are chosen from linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C 7 -C 2 i hydrocarbon radicals; r, s and t, which are identical or different, are integers having values from 2 to 6; y is an integer having a value from 1 to 1 0;
  • x and z which are i dentical or different, are integers having values from 0 to 1 0;
  • the alkyl radi cal s R 22 may be linear or branched, and more particularly linear.
  • R 22 denotes a methyl, ethyl, hydroxyethyl or dihydroxypropyl radical and more particularly a methyl or ethyl radical.
  • the sum x + y + z has a value from 1 to 1 0.
  • R 23 i a hydrocarbon-based radical R 27
  • R 27 may be long and have from 12 to 22 carbon atoms, or may be short and have from 1 to 3 carbon atoms .
  • R 25 is a hydrocarbon-based radical R 2 g , it has preferably 1 to 3 carbon atoms .
  • R 24 , R 26 and R 28 which are identical or different, are chosen from linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C n -C 2 1 hydrocarbon-based radicals, and more particularly from linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C n -C 2 1 alkyl and alkenyl radical s .
  • x and z, whi ch are identical or different, have values of 0 or 1 .
  • y is equal to 1 .
  • r, s and t which are identical or different, have values of 2 or 3 and more particularly still are equal to 2.
  • the anion X " i s preferably a halide (chloride, bromide or iodide) or an alkyl sulphate, more particularly methyl sulphate.
  • a halide chloride, bromide or iodide
  • an alkyl sulphate more particularly methyl sulphate.
  • methanesulphonate, phosphate, nitrate, tosylate an anion derived from an organic acid, such as acetate or lactate, or any other anion that is compatible with the ammonium containing an ester function.
  • the anion X " is even more particularly chloride or methyl sulphate.
  • R22 denotes a methyl or ethyl radical
  • - R23 is chosen from:
  • - R25 is chosen from:
  • R24, R26 and R28 which are identical or different, are chosen from linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C 13 -C 17 hydrocarbon-based radicals and preferably from linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C13-C17 alkyl and alkenyl radicals.
  • hydrocarbon-based radicals are advantageously linear.
  • acyl radi cal s preferably have from 14 to 1 8 carb on atoms and originate more particularly from a vegetable oil, such as palm oil or sunflower oil . When the compound contains several acyl radical s, these radical s may be identical or different.
  • an alkylating agent such as an alkyl (preferably methyl or ethyl) halide, a dialkyl (preferably dimethyl or diethyl) sulphate, methyl methanesulphonate, methyl para- toluenesulphonate, glycol chlorohydrin or glycerol chlorohydrin.
  • Such compounds are, for example, sold under the names Dehyquart ® by the company Henkel, Stepanquat ® by the company Stepan, Noxamium ® by the company Ceca or Rewoquat ® WE 1 8 by the company Rewo-Witco .
  • the film preferably contains a mixture of quaternary ammonium monoester, diester and triester salts with a weight maj ority of diester salts .
  • mixtures of ammonium salts that may be used include the mixture containing 1 5 % to 30% by weight of acyloxyethyldihydroxy- ethylmethylammonium methyl sulphate, 45% to 60% of diacyloxyethyl- hydroxy ethylmethylammonium methyl sulphate and 1 5 % to 30% of triacyloxyethylmethylammonium methyl sulphate, the acyl radi cal s containing from 14 to 1 8 carbon atoms and originating from palm oil that i s optionally partially hydrogenated. It is also possible to use the ammonium salts containing at least one ester function that are described in patents US-A-4 874 554 and US-A-4 137 180.
  • the cationic surfactant(s) is (are) chosen from the compounds of formula (VIII) or (XI).
  • tetraalkylammonium chlorides such as, for example, dialkyldimethylammonium or alkyltrimethylammonium chlorides in which the alkyl radical comprises approximately from 12 to 22 carbon atoms, in particular behenyltrimethylammonium chloride, distearyl- dimethylammonium chloride, cetyltrimethylammonium chloride or benzyl- dimethylstearylammonium chloride, or else, on the other hand, to distearoylethylhydroxyethylmethyl ammonium methosulphate, dipalmitoyl- ethylhydroxyethylammonium methosulphate or distearoylethyl- hydroxyethylammonium methosulphate, or else, finally, to palmitylamido- propyltrimethylammonium chloride or stearamidopropyldimethyl
  • the cationic surfactant(s) from among cetyltrimethylammonium (INCI: cetrimonium), behenyltrimethylammonium (INCI: behentrimonium), dip almitoylethylhydroxyethylmethyl ammonium, distearoylethyl- hydroxyethylmethyl ammonium, methyl (C9-Ci9)alkyl(Cio-C2o)alkyl- amidoethylimidazolium and stearamidopropyldimethylamine salts (preferably chloride or methosulphate), and the stearamidopropyldimethyl- ammonium salt, and mixtures thereof.
  • cetyltrimethylammonium INCI: cetrimonium
  • behenyltrimethylammonium INCI: behentrimonium
  • dip almitoylethylhydroxyethylmethyl ammonium distearoylethyl- hydroxyethylmethyl ammonium
  • the amount of the cationic surfactant(s) preferably ranges from 0.01% to 20% by weight and better still from 0.1% to 5 % by weight rel ative to the total weight of the composition resulting in the polymer film.
  • anionic surfactant means a surfactant comprising, as ionic or ionizable groups, only anionic groups .
  • anionic groups are preferably chosen from C0 2 H, C0 2 " , S0 3 H, S0 3 " , O S0 3 H, O S0 3 " , H 2 P0 3 , HP0 3 " , P0 3 2 " , H 2 P0 2 , HP0 2 , HP0 2 " , P0 2 " , POH and PO " groups .
  • anioni c surfactants mention may be made of alkyl sulphates, alkyl ether sulphates, alkylamido ether sulphates, alkylaryl polyether sulphates, monoglyceride sulphates, alkyl sulphonates, alkylamide sulphonates, alkylaryl sulphonates, a-olefin sulphonates, paraffin sulphonates, alkyl sulphosuccinates, alkyl ether sulphosuccinates, alkylamide sulpho succinates, alkyl sulphoacetates, acyl sarcosinates, acyl glutamates, alkyl sulphosuccinamates, acyl isethionates and N- acyltaurates, salts of alkyl monoesters of polyglycoside-polycarb oxyli c acids, acyl lactylates,
  • These compounds may be oxyethylenated and then preferably compri se from 1 to 50 ethylene oxide units.
  • the salts of C 6 -C 2 4 alkyl monoesters of polyglycoside- polycarb oxylic acids can be selected from C 6 -C 2 4 alkyl polyglycoside- citrates, C 6 -C 2 4 alkyl polyglycoside-tartrates and C 6 -C 2 4 alkyl poly glycoside- sulphosuccinates .
  • anioni c surfactant(s) (ii) when the anioni c surfactant(s) (ii) is (are) in salt form, it (they) may be chosen from alkali metal salts such as the sodium or potassium salt and preferably the sodium salt, the ammonium salts, the amine salts and in particular the amino alcohol salts or the alkaline-earth metal salts such as the magnesium salt.
  • alkali metal salts such as the sodium or potassium salt and preferably the sodium salt, the ammonium salts, the amine salts and in particular the amino alcohol salts or the alkaline-earth metal salts such as the magnesium salt.
  • amino alcohol salts examples include monoethanolamine, di ethanolamine and triethanolamine salts, monoi sopropanolamine, dii sopropanolamine or trii sopropanolamine salts, 2-amino-2-methyl- l -propanol salts, 2 -amino-2-methy 1- 1 , 3 -propanediol salts and tris(hydroxymethyl)aminomethane salts.
  • Alkali metal or alkaline-earth metal salts and in particular sodium or magnesium salts, are preferably used.
  • anionic surfactants it is preferred, according to the invention, to use alkyl sulphate salts and alkyl ether sulphate salts and mixtures thereof.
  • the amount of the anionic surfactant(s) i s preferably within the range from 0. 1 % to 3 .5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition resulting in the polymer film .
  • nonionic surfactants examples include but are not limited to, in the Handbook of Surfactants by M.R. Porter, sans shed by Blackie & Son (Glasgow and London), 1991 , pp . 1 16- 178.
  • They are especially chosen from alcohol s, a-diols and (C i_2 o)alkylphenol s, these compounds being polyethoxylated, polypropoxylated or polyglycerolated and containing at least one fatty chain compri sing, for example, from 8 to 1 8 carbon atoms, the number of ethylene oxi de or propylene oxide groups possibly ranging in particular from 2 to 50, and the number of glycerol groups possibly ranging in particular from 2 to 30.
  • polyethoxylated fatty amides preferably having from 2 to 30 ethylene oxide units, polyglycerolated fatty amides containing on average 1 to 5, and in particular 1.5 to 4 gly
  • the amount of the additional nonionic surfactant(s) is preferably within the range from 0.1% to 3.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition resulting in the formation of polymer film.
  • amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactant(s) that can be used in the present invention may especially be optionally quaternized secondary or tertiary aliphatic amine derivatives, in which the aliphatic group is a linear or branched chain containing from 8 to 22 carbon atoms, said amine derivatives containing at least one anionic group such as, for example, a carboxylate, sulphonate, sulphate, phosphate or phosphonate group.
  • R a represents a C10-C30 alkyl or alkenyl group derived from an acid Ra-COOH preferably present in hydrolysed coconut oil, a heptyl group, a nonyl group or an undecyl group, R b represents a ⁇ -hydroxyethyl group, and
  • R c represents a carboxymethyl group
  • X' represents the group -CH 2 -COOH, CH 2 -COOZ ⁇ -CH 2 CH 2 - COOH, -CH 2 CH 2 -COOZ', or a hydrogen atom
  • Y * represents -COOH, -COOZ', the group -CH 2 -CHOH-S0 3 H or -CH 2 -CHOH-S0 3 Z',
  • Z' represents an ion derived from an alkali metal or alkaline-earth metal, such as sodium, an ammonium ion or an ion derived from an organic amine,
  • Ra' represents a Cio-C 30 alkyl or alkenyl group of an acid Ra'- COOH which is preferably present in coconut oil or in hydrolysed linseed oil, or an alkyl group, especially a C 17 group, and its iso form, or an unsaturated C 17 group.
  • cocoamphodiacetate disodium lauroamphodiacetate
  • disodium caprylamphodiacetate disodium capryloamphodiacetate
  • disodium cocoamphodipropionate disodium lauroamphodipropionate
  • disodium caprylamphodipropionate disodium capryloamphodipropionate
  • lauroamphodipropionic acid and cocoampho- dipropionic acid.
  • cocoamphodiacetate sold by the company Rhodia under the trade name Miranol ® C2M Concentrate.
  • amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants use is preferably made of (C 8 -2o alkyl)betaines and (C 8 - 2o alkyl)amido(C6 - 8 alkyl)b etaines, and mixtures thereof.
  • the amount of the amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactant(s) is preferably within the range from 0. 1 % to 3 .5 % by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition resulting in the polymer film .
  • the cosmetic composition compri ses one or more cationic surfactants .
  • the cationic surfactant(s) is (are) chosen from the compounds of formul a (I) or (IV) and more particularly from cetyltrimethylammonium and b ehenyltrimethylammonium salts .
  • composition compri sing the film-forming polymer(s) may al so compri se one or more organic solvents such as lower C 1 -C 4 alcohol s, in particular C2 - C3 monoalcohol s and especially ethanol.
  • organic solvents such as lower C 1 -C 4 alcohol s, in particular C2 - C3 monoalcohol s and especially ethanol.
  • the polymer material may al so compri se one or more agents capable of increasing its mechanical strength, especially fibres .
  • the polymer material contains a fibre framework, such as a woven fabric framework.
  • the fibres may be thin or transparent and have the same refractive index as the cosmetic film.
  • the polymer film may compri se one or more layers of polymers .
  • the film may compri se a layer of a polymer that can be solubilized in a solvent and a layer constituted of a more resi stant material that cannot be solubilized.
  • the film especially it s outer surface, may be treated so as to render its surface non- shiny and with an appearance close to that of the skin.
  • the cosmetic polymer film according to the present invention may be partially di ssolved before, during or after its application to the skin.
  • the cosmetic treatment method according to the invention compri ses a step consi sting in applying to the skin a cosmetic composition containing one or more cosmeti cally acceptable solvents, then a step consisting in applying, to the area of the skin treated with said solvent(s), an antiperspirant cosmetic polymer film so that said film adheres to the skin, said film being partially di ssolved at the time of its application to the skin.
  • the cosmetic treatment method compri ses a step consi sting in applying to the skin a cosmetic composition comprising ethanol and a step consi sting in applying, to the area of the skin treated with the ethanol, an antiperspirant cosmetic polymer film obtained from a cosmetic composition comprising one or more water-insoluble polymers chosen from polymers of the polyamide- polyether type, in particular those chosen from copolymers bearing polyamide blocks (in particular PA-6 or PA- 12) and polyether blocks so that sai d film adheres to the skin, said film being partially di ssolved at the time of its application to the skin.
  • the film thus applied to the skin may be removed by applying water or an organic solvent.
  • the cosmetic treatment method according to the present invention may be used on the face or the body, especi ally in the area of the armpits .
  • the film may compri se two protective faces.
  • the first face may aid the appli cation of the film and the second face makes it possibl e to protect the face of the film that is intended to come into contact with the skin.
  • the film may be present on an applicator or a reel.
  • emb odiment use may be made of a device capable of bringing the film into contact with the composition containing the solvent(s) so that the film i s partially di ssolved. The film i s then applied to the skin manually or automatically using the device.
  • the device may compri se two parts, namely a film reel and a foam roller that may apply the cosmetic composition containing the solvent(s) .
  • the film reel is moved so as to bring the foam roller into contact with the cosmetic film in order to impregnate the cosmetic film with the composition containing the solvent(s) and to partially dissolve the film .
  • the portion of film that comes into contact with the foam roller i s solubilized, especially at the inner face of the film .
  • the composition is placed in a sealed flask, and it is heated at 60°C for 4 weeks in order to obtain a good solubilization of the copolymer in the ethanol.
  • the composition is applied to a smooth, porous and non-adhesive support so as to produce a film having a thickness of 5 ⁇ .
  • the film i s left laying on its support (a sheet of baking parchment paper) .
  • Ethanol i s applied to the skin, then the film, with its support, i s applied to the area of the skin that was treated with the ethanol, before the solvent evaporates .
  • a portion of the film solubilizes and leads to the adhesion of the film to the skin.
  • the composition is applied to a flat box made of Teflon, equipped with a system for removing the sides .
  • Ethanol i s applied to the skin, then the film, with its support, i s applied to the area of the skin that was treated with the ethanol, before the solvent evaporates .
  • a portion of the film solubilizes and leads to the adhesion of the film to the skin.
  • Example 2 The same test as Example 1 is carried out, except that the formulation placed on the skin al so contains 5 % of an adhesive (AQ 1 350 from the company Eastman Chemical s) . Other tests were carried out by detaching the film from its support and it was ob served that the process led to an effective blocking of the perspiration being obtained.
  • an adhesive AQ 1 350 from the company Eastman Chemical s

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Abstract

La présente invention concerne un procédé de traitement cosmétique de la transpiration humaine et facultativement des odeurs corporelles liées à la transpiration humaine, notamment des odeurs axillaires, caractérisé en ce qu'il comprend : (i) une étape consistant à appliquer un film polymère cosmétique antiperspirant à la peau, et (ii) une étape consistant à partiellement dissoudre ledit film lors d'un contact avec une composition cosmétique contenant un ou plusieurs solvants acceptables sur le plan cosmétique avant, pendant ou après l'application dudit film à la peau de telle sorte que ledit film adhère à la peau.
PCT/EP2012/054096 2011-03-09 2012-03-09 Procédé de traitement cosmétique de la transpiration humaine qui comprend l'application d'un film polymère antiperspirant solubilisable WO2012120114A1 (fr)

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FR1151932A FR2972351B1 (fr) 2011-03-09 2011-03-09 Procede de traitement cosmetique de la transpiration humaine comprenant l'application d'un film polymerique anti-transpirant solubilisable
FR1151932 2011-03-09
US201161451834P 2011-03-11 2011-03-11
US61/451,834 2011-03-11

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Cited By (1)

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WO2014085286A1 (fr) * 2012-11-27 2014-06-05 International Flavors & Fragrances Inc. Capsules dispersées dans des phases tensioactives lyotropiques ou à cristaux liquides lyotropiques

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