WO2012084877A2 - Utilisation de copolymères cationiques pour améliorer les propriétés de résistance de fibres de kératine colorées - Google Patents

Utilisation de copolymères cationiques pour améliorer les propriétés de résistance de fibres de kératine colorées Download PDF

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Publication number
WO2012084877A2
WO2012084877A2 PCT/EP2011/073311 EP2011073311W WO2012084877A2 WO 2012084877 A2 WO2012084877 A2 WO 2012084877A2 EP 2011073311 W EP2011073311 W EP 2011073311W WO 2012084877 A2 WO2012084877 A2 WO 2012084877A2
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cationic
copolymer
hair
hair treatment
use according
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PCT/EP2011/073311
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German (de)
English (en)
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WO2012084877A3 (fr
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Monika Noll
Erik Schulze Zur Wiesche
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Henkel Ag & Co. Kgaa
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Publication of WO2012084877A3 publication Critical patent/WO2012084877A3/fr

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    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/81—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions involving only carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds
    • A61K8/8141—Compositions of homopolymers or copolymers of compounds having one or more unsaturated aliphatic radicals, each having only one carbon-to-carbon double bond, and at least one being terminated by only one carboxyl radical, or of salts, anhydrides, esters, amides, imides or nitriles thereof; Compositions of derivatives of such polymers
    • A61K8/8152—Homopolymers or copolymers of esters, e.g. (meth)acrylic acid esters; Compositions of derivatives of such polymers
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q5/00—Preparations for care of the hair
    • A61Q5/004—Preparations used to protect coloured hair
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q5/00—Preparations for care of the hair
    • A61Q5/02—Preparations for cleaning the hair
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q5/00—Preparations for care of the hair
    • A61Q5/12—Preparations containing hair conditioners

Definitions

  • the invention is in the field of cosmetics and relates to the use of a specific cationic copolymer in cosmetic hair treatment compositions for improving the fastness properties of dyed and / or bleached keratinic fibers.
  • the invention further relates to a process for improving the fastness properties of dyed and / or bleached keratinic fibers using hair treatment compositions containing a specific cationic copolymer.
  • human hair In addition to their actual physiological role, such as thermal insulation and light protection, human hair has a psychosocial function that should not be underestimated. Among other things, they serve as means of interpersonal communication and represent a sign of their own individuality.
  • EP 1729853 proposes cationic starch derivatives for improving the fastness properties of dyed and / or bleached keratinic fibers.
  • EP 1591 103 shows that a combination of an alkylpolyglucoside and an anionic polymer in cosmetic cleaners can support the color protection of dyed hair.
  • EP 1547574 discloses hair treatment agents which prevent the bleeding of dyed hair and a combination of a long chain alcohol, a quaternary ammonium compound, a polyhydric alcohol and a dimethylpolysiloxane.
  • the active ingredients and / or active ingredient combinations should improve the fastness properties of dyed and / or bleached hair.
  • Another object of the invention was to find caring or active ingredient combinations for use in hair cleansing and / or hair conditioners which condition dyed hair and render it shiny and supple.
  • the color brilliance of dyed and / or bleached hair should be improved.
  • the invention relates to the use of a cationic copolymer X containing at least two different ethylenically unsaturated polymerizable components A and B, in cosmetic hair treatment compositions for improving the fastness properties of dyed and / or bleached keratinic fibers.
  • Fiberness properties of dyed and / or bleached keratinic fibers is preferably understood to mean the stability / resistance of dyed and / or bleached keratinic fibers to (UV) light, perspiration and / or cleaning agents (lightfastness, perspiration fastness, washfastness).
  • Keratinic fibers are preferably understood to be furs, wool, feathers and, in particular, human hair.
  • Suitable cationic copolymers X are preferred
  • component A acrylic acid, methacrylic acid and / or their C Ce alkyl esters
  • component B styrene and / or a styrene derivative
  • Particularly preferred cationic copolymers X are composed of the monomers A, B and C, wherein
  • A is a CrCe-alkyl acrylate compound
  • C is a monomer having a cationically charged grouping.
  • Suitable monomers C may preferably be selected from tri-C 1 -C 4 -alkylammonium-C 1 -C 6 -alkyl methacrylate compounds, preferably from the halide and / or methosulfate salts of these compounds.
  • a particularly suitable monomer e is trimethylammoniumethyl methacrylate chloride.
  • Particularly preferred according to the invention is the use of at least one cationic copolymer X in cosmetic hair treatment compositions containing the monomers butyl acrylate, trimethyl ammonium ethyl methacrylate chloride and styrene.
  • the cationic copolymers X are obtainable by copolymerization of butyl acrylate, ethyltrimonium chloride methacrylate and styrene, and preferably have a weight average molecular weight of from 10 to 250 kDa, more preferably from 25 to 200 kDa, more preferably from 50 to 150 kDa and especially from 80 to 120 kDa.
  • Such polymers are commercially available under the INCI name "butyl acrylate / ethyltrimonium chloride methacrylate / styrene copolymer”.
  • a suitable commercial product that can be used as the cationic copolymer X in hair treatment compositions "Polysaf ® 5600" is.
  • Polysaf ® 5600 is offered by Dow Reichhold Specialty Latex, and is an approximately 40% aqueous suspension of the under the INCI name "Butyl Acrylate / Methacrylate Chloride Ethyltrimonium / Styrene - copolymer” known polymer.
  • Suitable hair treatment agents into which the cationic copolymer X can be incorporated preferably contain a cosmetic carrier, which is preferably aqueous or aqueous-alcoholic.
  • the cosmetic carrier particularly preferably contains at least 40% by weight of water.
  • the cosmetic carrier may contain 0.01 to 50% by weight, preferably 0.05 to 45% by weight and in particular 0.1 to 40% by weight of at least one alcohol which may be selected from ethanol, ethyl diglycol, 1-Propanol, 2-propanol, isopropanol, 1, 2-propylene glycol, glycerol, 1-butanol, 2-butanol, 1, 2-butanediol, 1, 3-butanediol, 1-pentanol, 2-pentanol, 1, 2 Pentanediol, 1, 5-pentanediol, 1, hexanol, 2-hexanol, 1, 2-hexanediol, 1, 6-hexanediol, sorbitol, benzyl alcohol, phenoxyethanol or mixtures of these alcohols.
  • at least one alcohol which may be selected from ethanol, ethyl diglycol, 1-Propanol, 2-propanol, isopropano
  • ethanol ethyl diglycol
  • 1-propanol 2-propanol
  • isopropanol 1, 2-propylene glycol
  • glycerol benzyl alcohol and / or phenoxyethanol and mixtures of these alcohols.
  • Suitable hair treatment agents in which the cationic copolymer X can be used are, for example, shampoos, rinses, hair conditioners, hair tonics, hair sprays, foam aerosols, hair waxes, hair gels, hair dyes, bleaching agents and / or hair shaping agents.
  • these compositions can contain all ingredients customary for these formulation forms.
  • the cationic copolymer X is used in hair treatment agents which are a hair cleanser, a hair conditioner and / or a hair toner.
  • Suitable hair cleansers and / or hair conditioners in which the cationic copolymer X can be used preferably contain from 0.1 to 50% by weight of at least one surfactant, which may be selected from the group of anionic, amphoteric / zwitterionic, nonionic and / or cationic surfactants.
  • Hair cleansers such as shampoos preferably contain a mixture of anionic and amphoteric / zwitterionic surfactants. To further protect the hair color, it is advantageous if shampoos additionally contain nonionic surfactants and / or emulsifiers.
  • shampoos additionally contain a cationic surfactant.
  • Hair conditioners such as rinses and / or hair treatments preferably contain at least 0.1% by weight of at least one cationic surfactant.
  • Suitable anionic surfactants may be present in the hair treatment agents containing the copolymer X, based on their total weight, preferably in amounts of from 0.5 to 25% by weight, more preferably from 1 to 20% by weight, particularly preferably from 2 to 17.5 Wt .-% and in particular from 3 to 15 wt .-% be contained.
  • Suitable anionic surfactants include:
  • Sulfosuccinic acid mono- and / or dialkyl esters having 8 to 24 C atoms in the alkyl group and sulfosuccinic acid monoalkylpolyoxyethyl esters having 8 to 24 C atoms in the alkyl group and 1 to 6 oxyethyl groups,
  • Alpha-olefin sulfonates having 8 to 24 C atoms
  • R-0 (CH 2 -CH 2 0) x -OS0 3 " X + , in which R is a preferably linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated alkyl group having 8 to 30 carbon atoms, x 0 or 1 to 12 and X is an alkali or ammonium ion,
  • R 2 is hydrogen, a radical (CH 2 CH 2 0) nR or X, n is from 0 to 10 and X is hydrogen, an alkali or alkaline earth metal or NR 3 R 4 R 5 R 6 , where R 3 to R 6 are independently of one another a C 4 - hydrocarbon radical.
  • Preferred anionic surfactants are ether carboxylic acids of the abovementioned formula, acylsarcosides having 8 to 24 carbon atoms in the acyl group, sulfosuccinic mono- and / or dialkyl esters having 8 to 24 carbon atoms in the alkyl group and sulfosuccinic acid mono-alkylpolyoxyethyl esters having 8 to 24 C Atoms in the alkyl group and 1 to 6 oxyethyl groups, alpha Olefinsulfonate having 8 to 24 carbon atoms and / or alkyl sulfate and / or Alkylpolyglykolethersulfatsalze the aforementioned formula.
  • Particularly preferred anionic surfactants are straight-chain or branched alkyl ether sulfates which contain an alkyl radical having 8 to 18 and in particular 10 to 16 C atoms and 1 to 6 and in particular 2 to 4 ethylene oxide units.
  • anionic surfactants are straight-chain or branched alkyl sulfonates which contain an alkyl radical having 8 to 18 and in particular 10 to 16 carbon atoms. Particular preference is given to the sodium, magnesium and / or triethanolamine salts of linear or branched lauryl, tridecyl and / or myristyl sulfates which have a degree of ethoxylation of from 2 to 4.
  • Suitable amphoteric / zwitterionic surfactants may in the hair treatment agents containing the copolymer X - based on their total weight - preferably in amounts of 0.1 to 20 wt .-%, more preferably from 0.25 to 15 wt .-%, particularly preferably from 0 , 5 to 12.5% by weight and in particular from 1 to 10 wt .-% be contained.
  • Suitable amphoteric / zwitterionic surfactants may be selected from compounds of the following formulas (i) to (v) in which the radical R is in each case a straight-chain or branched, saturated or mono- or polyunsaturated alkyl or alkene radical having 8 to 24 Carbon atoms,
  • amphoteric / zwitterionic surfactants are alkylamidoalkylbetaines and / or alkylampho (di) acetates of the abovementioned formulas (i) to (v).
  • amphoteric / zwitterionic surfactants include the surfactants cocamidopropyl betaine and disodium cocoamphodiacetate known under the INCI name.
  • the cationic copolymer X is used in hair treatment compositions which are formulated as hair cleansers and contain anionic and amphoteric surfactants from the abovementioned groups.
  • the cleaning compositions comprise at least one anionic surfactant and at least one amphoteric / zwitterionic surfactant from the aforementioned groups in a ratio of from 5: 1 to 1: 3, preferably from 4: 1 to 1: 2 and especially from 3: 1 to 1: 1 included.
  • Suitable cationic surfactants are, for example, quaternary ammonium compounds, esterquats and / or amidoamines.
  • Preferred quaternary ammonium compounds are ammonium halides, especially chlorides and bromides, such as alkyltrimethylammonium chlorides, dialkyldimethylammonium chlorides and trialkylmethylammonium chlorides, e.g.
  • alkyltrimethylammonium chlorides dialkyldimethylammonium chlorides and trialkylmethylammonium chlorides, e.g.
  • cetyltrimethylammonium chloride, stearyltrimethylammonium chloride, distearyldimethylammonium chloride, lauryldimethylammonium chloride, lauryldimethylbenzylammonium chloride and tricetylmethylammonium chloride as well as the imidazolium compounds known under the INCI names Quaternium-27, Quaternium-83 and Quaternium-87.
  • the alkyl chains of the above-mentioned surfactants preferably have 10 to 18 carbon atoms.
  • Esterquats are known substances which contain both at least one ester function and at least one quaternary ammonium group as a structural element.
  • preferred Esterquats are quaternized ester salts of fatty acids with triethanolamine, quaternized ester salts of fatty acids with diethanolalkylamines and quaternized ester salts of fatty acids with 1, 2-Dihydroxypropyldialkylaminen.
  • Such products are marketed under the trade names Stepantex® ®, Dehyquart® ®, ® and Armocare® Quartamin ®.
  • alkylamidoamines are usually prepared by amidation of natural or synthetic fatty acids and fatty acid cuts with dialkylaminoamines.
  • a particularly suitable compound from this group of substances under the name Tegoamid ® S 18 stearamidopropyl commercially represent.
  • the cationic surfactants may be used in the hair treatment agents containing the copolymer X - based on their total weight - preferably in an amount of 0.05 to 20 wt .-%, based on the total agent. Amounts of 0.1 to 15 wt .-% are particularly preferred.
  • Suitable nonionic surfactants and / or nonionic emulsifiers may in the hair treatment agents containing the copolymer X - based on their total weight - preferably in an amount of 0.1 to 30 wt .-%, preferably 0.5 to 20 wt .-% and in particular 1 be contained to 15 wt .-%.
  • nonionic surfactants / emulsifiers examples include
  • alkyl oligoglucosides in particular alkyl oligoglucosides based on hydrogenated C w - coconut oil having a DP of 1 -3, as for example under the INCI name "coco-glucosides" in Commercially available, preferably.
  • Further preferred nonionic surfactants are the C 8 -C 30 fatty acid mono- and diesters of addition products of 1 to 30 moles of ethylene oxide with glycerol.
  • Particularly preferred are the C 0 -C 6 -Fetklamono- and diesters of addition products of 1 to 10 moles of ethylene oxide to glycerol.
  • PEG-7 glyceryl cocoate known under the INCI name.
  • the cationic copolymers X are used in hair treatment compositions which are formulated as hair-cleansing preparations and, based on their total weight, are preferred
  • A is a CrCe-alkyl acrylate compound
  • C is a monomer having a cationically charged grouping.
  • the hair cleansers - based on their total weight - a) 1 to 20 wt .-% ether carboxylic acids, acylsarcosides having 8 to 24 carbon atoms in the acyl group, sulfosuccinic mono- and / or -dialkylester with 8 bis 24 C atoms in the alkyl group and sulfosuccinic acid mono-alkylpolyoxyethyl esters having 8 to 24 C atoms in the alkyl group and 1 to 6 oxyethyl groups, alpha-olefin sulfonates having 8 to 24 C atoms and / or alkyl sulfate and / or alkylpolyglycol ether sulfate salts,
  • A is a CrCe-alkyl acrylate compound
  • C is a tri-C 1 -C 4 alkylammonium C 6 -C 4 -alkyl methacrylate compound, preferably a halide and / or methosulfate salt of these compounds.
  • the hair cleansers - based on their total weight - a) 2 to 17.5 wt .-% alkyl ether sulfates containing an alkyl radical having 8 to 18 and in particular having 10 to 16 carbon atoms and 1 to 6 and in particular 2 to 4 ethylene oxide units and / or straight-chain or branched alkyl sulfonates which have an alkyl radical having 8 to 18 and in particular 10 to 16 carbon atoms,
  • the hair cleansers - based on their total weight - a) 3 to 15 wt .-% sodium, magnesium and / or triethanolamine salts of linear or branched lauryl, tridecyl and / or myristyl sulfates having a degree of ethoxylation from 2 to 4,
  • the hair cleansers - based on their total weight - a) 0.5 to 25 wt .-% of at least one anionic surfactant,
  • the cationic copolymers X are used in hair treatment compositions which are formulated as hair conditioner or hair conditioner and, based on their total weight, are preferred
  • A is a CrCe-alkyl acrylate compound
  • C is a tri-C 1 -C 4 alkylammonium C 6 -C 4 -alkyl methacrylate compound, preferably a halide and / or methosulfate salt of these compounds.
  • cetyltrimethylammonium chloride a) 0.1 to 15% by weight of cetyltrimethylammonium chloride, stearyltrimethylammonium chloride, distearyldimethylammonium chloride, lauryldimethylammonium chloride, lauryldimethylbenzylammonium chloride and tricetylmethylammonium chloride, stearamidopropyldimethylamine, Behenoyl PG-trimonium chloride and / or the surfactants Quaternium-27, Quaternium-83 and Quaternium-87 and known under the INCI names
  • the cationic copolymers X are used in hair treatment compositions which are formulated as hair tonic and, based on their total weight, are preferred
  • A is a CrCe-alkyl acrylate compound
  • C is a tri-C 1 -C 4 alkylammonium C 6 -C 4 -alkyl methacrylate compound, preferably a halide and / or methosulfate salt of these compounds.
  • the hair tonic (based on its total weight):
  • the cosmetic effect of the cationic copolymers X in the hair treatment compositions in which they can be used can be significantly increased if the respective hair treatment compositions - based on their total weight - preferably 0.01 to 10 wt .-%, more preferably 0.05 to 7.5 wt .-% and in particular 0.1 to 5 wt .-% of at least one other - different from the cationic copolymer X - containing cationic polymers.
  • some cationic polymers can favor the deposition of the cationic copolymer X on the hair.
  • Suitable cationic polymers are, for example:
  • quaternized cellulose derivatives such as are available under the names of Celquat ® and Polymer JR ® commercially hydrophobically modified cellulose derivatives, for example those sold under the trade name SOFTCAT ® cationic polymers,
  • honey for example the commercial product Honeyquat ® 50,
  • cationic guar derivatives in particular those sold under the tradename Cosmedia Guar ® and Jaguar ® products,
  • Such compounds are available under the Be drawings Gafquat ® 734 and Gafquat ® 755 commercially
  • Vinylpyrrolidone vinylimidazoliummethochloride copolymers such as those offered under the names Luviquat.RTM ® FC 370, FC 550, FC 905 and HM 552,
  • Polyquaternium 2 Polyquaternium 17, Polyquaternium 18, Polyquaternium-24, Polyquaternium 27, Polyquaternium-32, Polyquaternium-37, Polyquaternium 74 and Polyquaternium 89 known polymers.
  • Suitable cationic polymers of the "temporarily cationic" polymers are usually contain an amino group present at certain pH values as a quaternary ammonium group and hence cationic.
  • chitosan and its derivatives are preferred, such as for example, under the trade designations Hydagen ® CMF, Hydagen® ® HCMF, Kytamer ® PC and Chitolam ® NB / 101 are freely available commercially.
  • chitosans are deacetylated, in different degrees of deacetylation and varying degrees of degradation (molecular weights) are commercially available.
  • Particularly preferred cationic polymers that can be used in the cationic copolymer X-containing hair treatment compositions are quaternized cellulosic polymers, cationic guar derivatives, and / or acrylic acid (derivative) based cationic polymers, especially selected from the polyquaternium polymers known by the INCI names -6, Polyquaternium-7, Polyquaternium-10, Polyquaternium-37 and / or Polyquaternium-67.
  • the cationic copolymers X are used in hair treatment compositions which are formulated as hair-cleansing preparations and, based on their total weight, are preferred
  • A is a CrCe-alkyl acrylate compound
  • C is a monomer having a cationically charged moiety
  • d) contain 0.01 to 10 wt .-% of at least one other cationic polymer, which is different from the cationic copolymer X.
  • the hair cleansers - based on their total weight - a) 1 to 20 wt .-% ether carboxylic acids, acylsarcosides having 8 to 24 carbon atoms in the acyl group, sulfosuccinic mono- and / or -dialkylester with 8 bis 24 C atoms in the alkyl group and sulfosuccinic acid mono-alkylpolyoxyethyl esters having 8 to 24 C atoms in the alkyl group and 1 to 6 oxyethyl groups, alpha-olefin sulfonates having 8 to 24 C atoms and / or alkyl sulfate and / or alkylpolyglycol ether sulfate salts,
  • A is a CrCe-alkyl acrylate compound
  • C is a tri-C 1 -C 4 -alkylammonium C 1 -C 6 -alkyl methacrylate compound, preferably a halide and / or methosulfate salt of these compounds, and
  • the hair cleansers - based on their total weight - a) 3 to 15 wt .-% sodium, magnesium and / or triethanolamine salts of linear or branched lauryl, tridecyl and / or myristyl sulfates having a degree of ethoxylation from 2 to 4,
  • the hair cleansers - based on their total weight - a) 0.5 to 25 wt .-% of at least one anionic surfactant,
  • the cationic copolymers X are used in hair treatment compositions which are formulated as hair conditioner or hair conditioner and, based on their total weight, are preferred
  • A is a CrCe-alkyl acrylate compound
  • C is a tri-C 1 -C 4 -alkylammonium C 1 -C 6 -alkyl methacrylate compound, preferably a halide and / or methosulfate salt of these compounds, and
  • cetyltrimethylammonium chloride from 0.1 to 15% by weight of cetyltrimethylammonium chloride, stearyltrimethylammonium chloride, distearyldimethylammonium chloride, lauryldimethylammonium chloride, lauryldimethylbenzylammonium chloride and tricetylmethylammonium chloride, stearamidopropyldimethylamine, behenoyl PG-trimonium chloride and / or the surfactants quaternium-27, quaternium-containing, known under the INCI names.
  • the cosmetic effect of the cationic copolymers X in the hair treatment compositions in which they can be used can be significantly increased if the respective hair treatment compositions - based on their total weight - preferably 0.01 to 20 wt .-%, more preferably 0.05 to 15 wt .-% and in particular 0.1 to 10 wt .-% of at least one oil, fat and / or wax component.
  • Suitable oil and / or fat components may preferably be selected from mineral, natural and synthetic oil components and / or fatty substances.
  • natural (vegetable) oils usually triglycerides and mixtures of triglycerides are used.
  • Preferred natural oils are coconut oil, (sweet) almond oil, walnut oil, peach kernel oil, apricot kernel oil, avocado oil, tea tree oil, soybean oil, sesame oil, sunflower oil, tsubaki oil, evening primrose oil, rice bran oil, palm kernel oil, mango seed oil, essence foam herb oil, safflower oil, macadamia nut oil, grapeseed oil, Amaranth seed oil, argan oil, bamboo oil, olive oil, wheat germ oil, pumpkin seed oil, mallow oil, hazelnut oil, safflower oil, canola oil, sasanqua oil, jojoba oil, rambutan oil, cocoa butter and shea butter.
  • mineral oils are used in particular mineral oils, paraffin and Isoparaffinöle and synthetic hydrocarbons.
  • An example of a usable hydrocarbon is for example that available as a commercial product 1, 3-di- (2-ethylhexyl) - cyclohexane (Cetiol ® S).
  • Suitable synthetic oils are silicone compounds.
  • Silicones have excellent conditioning properties on the hair. In particular, they cause better combability of the hair in the wet and dry state and in many cases have a positive effect on the hair and the softness of the hair.
  • Suitable silicones may be selected from: Polyalkyl siloxanes, polyaryl siloxanes, polyalkylaryl siloxanes which are volatile or non-volatile, straight-chain, branched or cyclic, crosslinked or uncrosslinked;
  • grafted silicone polymers having a non-silicone organic backbone consisting of an organic backbone formed from organic monomers containing no silicone grafted with at least one polysiloxane macromer in the chain and optionally at least one chain end;
  • oil component may further serve a dialkyl ether.
  • dialkyl ethers are, in particular, di-n-alkyl ethers having a total of from 12 to 36 carbon atoms, in particular from 12 to 24 carbon atoms, such as, for example, di-n-octyl ether, di-n-decyl ether, di-n-nonyl ether, di-n -undecyl ether, di-n-dodecyl ether, n-hexyl n-octyl ether, n-octyl n-decyl ether, n-decyl n-undecyl ether, n-undecyl n-dodecyl ether and n-hexyl n-undecyl ether and di tert-butyl ether, di-iso-pentyl ether, di-3-ethyl decyl ether, tert-butyl n-oct
  • di-n-octyl ether which is commercially available under the name Cetiol ® OE.
  • Fatty substances are to be understood fatty acids, fatty alcohols and natural and synthetic waxes, which may be present both in solid form and liquid in aqueous dispersion.
  • the fatty acids used can be linear and / or branched, saturated and / or unsaturated fatty acids having 6 to 30 carbon atoms. Preference is given to fatty acids having 10 to 22 carbon atoms. Among these could be mentioned, for example, isostearic as the commercial products Emersol ® 871 and Emersol ® 875, and isopalmitic acids such as the commercial product Edenor ® IP 95, and all other products sold under the trade names Edenor ® (Cognis) fatty acids.
  • fatty acids are caproic, caprylic, 2-ethylhexanoic, capric, lauric, isotridecanoic, myristic, palmitic, palmitoleic, stearic, isostearic, oleic, elaidic, petroselic, linoleic, linolenic as well as their technical mixtures.
  • fatty acid cuttings obtainable from coconut oil or palm oil;
  • stearic acid is usually preferred.
  • fatty alcohols it is possible to use saturated, mono- or polyunsaturated, branched or unbranched fatty alcohols with C 6 -C 30 -, preferably C 0 -C 22 - and very particularly preferably C 12 -C 22 -carbon atoms.
  • the fatty alcohols are derived from preferably natural fatty acids, which can usually be based on recovery from the esters of fatty acids by reduction.
  • those fatty alcohol cuts which are produced by reduction of naturally occurring triglycerides such as beef tallow, palm oil, peanut oil, rapeseed oil, cottonseed oil, soybean oil, sunflower oil and linseed oil or fatty acid esters formed from their transesterification products with corresponding alcohols, and thus represent a mixture of different fatty alcohols.
  • Such substances are, for example, under the names Stenol ® such as Stenol ® 1618 or Lanette ® such as Lanette ® O or Lorol ®, for example, Lorol ® C8, Lorol C14 ®, Lorol C18 ®, ® Lorol C8-18, HD-Ocenol ®, Crodacol ® such as Crodacol ® CS, Novol ®, Eutanol ® G, Guerbitol ® 16, Guerbitol ® 18, Guerbitol ® 20, Isofol ® 12, Isofol ® 16, lsofol ® 24, Isofol ® 36, Isocarb ® 12, Isocarb ® 16 or acquire Isocarb® ® 24 for sale.
  • Stenol ® such as Stenol ® 1618 or Lanette ® such as Lanette ® O or Lorol ®
  • Lorol ® C8 Lorol C8-18
  • wool wax alcohols as are commercially available, for example under the names of Corona ®, White Swan ®, Coronet ® or Fluilan ® can be used according to the invention.
  • natural or synthetic waxes may be used solid paraffins or isoparaffins, carnauba waxes, beeswaxes, candelilla waxes, ozokerites, ceresin, spermaceti, sunflower wax, fruit waxes such as apple wax or citrus wax, microwaxes of PE or PP.
  • Such waxes are available, for example, from Kahl & Co., Trittau.
  • fatty substances are, for example
  • Ester oils are to be understood as meaning the esters of C 6 - C 30 fatty acids with C 2 - C 30 fatty alcohols.
  • the monoesters of the fatty acids with alcohols having 2 to 24 carbon atoms are preferred.
  • Examples of fatty acid components used in the esters are caproic, caprylic, 2-ethylhexanoic, capric, lauric, isotridecanoic, myristic, palmitic, palmitoleic, stearic, isostearic, oleic, elaidic, petroselic, linoleic, linolenic Behenic acid and erucic acid and their technical mixtures.
  • fatty alcohol components in the ester oils are isopropyl alcohol, caproic alcohol, capryl alcohol, 2-ethylhexyl alcohol, capric alcohol, lauryl alcohol, isotridecyl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, palmoleyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, elaidyl alcohol, petroselinyl alcohol, linolyl alcohol, linolenyl alcohol, elaeostearyl alcohol, arachyl alcohol, gadoleyl alcohol , Behenyl alcohol, erucyl alcohol and brassidyl alcohol and their technical mixtures.
  • isopropyl myristate IPM Rilanit ®
  • isononanoic acid C16-18 alkyl ester Cetiol ® SN
  • 2-ethylhexyl palmitate Cegesoft ® 24
  • stearic acid-2-ethylhexyl ester Cetiol ® 868
  • cetyl oleate glycerol tricaprylate, caprate Kokosfettalkohol- / caprylate (Cetiol ® LC)
  • n-butyl stearate oleyl erucate
  • isopropyl palmitate IPP Rilanit ®
  • oleyl Oleate Cetiol ®
  • hexyl laurate Cetiol ® A
  • di-n-butyl adipate Cetiol ® B
  • Dicarboxylic acid esters such as di-n-butyl adipate, di- (2-ethylhexyl) adipate, di- (2-ethylhexyl) succinate and di-isotridecyl acelate
  • diol esters such as ethylene glycol dioleate, ethylene glycol diisotridecanoate, propylene glycol di (2- ethylhexanoate), propylene glycol diisostearate,
  • ethoxylated or non ethoxylated mono, - di- and trifatty acid esters of saturated and / or unsaturated linear and / or branched fatty acids with glycerol such as Monomuls 90-018 ®, ® Monomuls 90-L12, Cetiol ® HE or Cutina ® MD.
  • the hair treatment agents in which the cationic copolymer X can be used may contain a number of other ingredients which impart advantageous properties to them.
  • the preferred optional agents include, for example:
  • Vitamins, vitamin derivatives and / or vitamin precursors, in the respective hair treatment compositions preferably in an amount of 0.001 to 10 wt .-%, preferably 0.005 to 7.5 wt .-% and in particular 0.01 to 5 wt .-% can be used,
  • Antidandruff active ingredients which in the respective hair treatment compositions (based on their total weight) preferably in an amount of 0.01 to 10 wt .-%, more preferably from 0.025 to 7.5 wt .-%, particularly preferably from 0.05 to 5 wt .-% and in particular from 0.075 to 3 wt .-% can be used, and
  • Protein hydrolysates which in the respective hair treatment compositions (based on their total weight) preferably in an amount of 0.01 to 10 wt .-%, more preferably from 0.025 to 7.5 wt .-%, particularly preferably from 0.05 to 5 wt .-% and in particular from 0.075 to 3 wt .-% can be used.
  • Suitable vitamins are preferably the following vitamins, provitamins and vitamin precursors and their derivatives:
  • Vitamin A the group of substances called vitamin A includes retinol (vitamin A) and 3,4-didehydroretinol (vitamin A 2 ).
  • the ß-carotene is the provitamin of retinol.
  • vitamin A component for example, vitamin A acid and its esters, vitamin A aldehyde and vitamin A alcohol and its esters such as the palmitate and the acetate into consideration.
  • Vitamin B belong to the vitamin B group or to the vitamin B complex among others
  • Vitamin B 3 • Vitamin B 3 .
  • the compounds nicotinic acid and nicotinamide (niacinamide) are often performed.
  • Vitamin B 5 pantothenic acid and panthenol.
  • panthenol is preferred.
  • Useful derivatives of panthenol are, in particular, the esters and ethers of panthenol, as well as cationically derivatized panthenols. Individual representatives are, for example, panthenol triacetate, panthenol monoethyl ether and its monoacetate, as well as cationic panthenol derivatives.
  • Vitamin B 6 pyridoxine and pyridoxamine and pyridoxal
  • Vitamin C ascorbic acid: use in the form of palmitic acid ester, glucosides or phosphates may be preferred. The use in combination with tocopherols may also be preferred.
  • Vitamin E tocopherols, especially a-tocopherol.
  • Vitamin F the term "vitamin F” is usually understood as meaning essential fatty acids, in particular linoleic acid, linolenic acid and arachidonic acid.
  • Vitamin H Vitamin H is the compound (3aS, 4S, 6aR) -2-oxohexahydrothienol [3,4-d] - imidazole-4-valeric acid, for which, in the meantime, the trivial name biotin has prevailed.
  • nicotinic acid amide particularly preferred are nicotinic acid amide, biotin, pantolactone and / or panthenol.
  • Suitable antidandruff active ingredients may be selected from piroctone olamine, climbazole, zinc pyrithione, ketoconazole, salicylic acid, sulfur, selenium sulfide, tar preparations, undecenoic acid derivatives, burdock root extracts, poplar extracts, nettle extracts, walnut shell extracts, birch extracts, willow bark extracts, rosemary extracts and / or arnica extracts.
  • Suitable protein hydrolysates are product mixtures which can be obtained by acid, alkaline or enzymatically catalyzed degradation of proteins (proteins).
  • Suitable animal protein hydrolysates are, for example, elastin, collagen, keratin, silk and / or milk protein protein hydrolysates, which may also be present in the form of salts.
  • Such products are, for example, under the trademarks Dehylan ® (Cognis), Promois® ® (Interorgana) Collapuron ® (Cognis), Nutrilan® ® (Cognis), Gelita-Sol ® (German Gelatinefabriken Stoess & Co), Lexein ® (Inolex) and kerasol tm ® (Croda) sold.
  • Suitable protein hydrolysates of plant origin are, for example, soybean, almond, rice, pea, potato, rapeseed and / or wheat protein hydrolysates.
  • Such products are, for example, under the trademarks Gluadin ® (Cognis), diamine ® (Diamalt) ® (Inolex) and Crotein ® (Croda) available.
  • Suitable protein hydrolysates of marine origin include, for example, collagen hydrolyzates of fish or algae, and protein hydrolysates of mussels or pearl hydrolysates.
  • suitable Perlenhydrolysate are the commercial products Pearl Protein Extract BG ® or Crodarom ® Pearl.
  • the protein hydrolyzates on which the cationic derivatives are based can be obtained from the corresponding proteins by chemical, in particular alkaline or acid hydrolysis, by enzymatic hydrolysis and / or a combination of both types of hydrolysis.
  • the hydrolysis of proteins usually results in a protein hydrolyzate having a molecular weight distribution of about 100 daltons up to several thousand daltons. Preference is given to those cationic protein hydrolyzates whose underlying protein content has a molecular weight of 100 to 25,000 daltons, preferably 250 to 5000 daltons.
  • cationic protein hydrolyzates are to be understood as meaning quaternized amino acids and mixtures thereof.
  • the quaternization of the protein hydrolysates or amino acids is often carried out using quaternary ammonium salts such as N, N-dimethyl-N- (n-alkyl) -N- (2-hydroxy-3-chloro-n-propyl) ammonium halides.
  • cationic protein hydrolysates may also be further derivatized.
  • Typical examples of the cationic protein hydrolysates and derivatives include the products known and commercially available under the INCI names: Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Collagen, Cocodimopnium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Casein, Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Collagen, Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Keratin, Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Keratin, Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Rice Protein, Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Silk, Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Soy Protein, Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein, Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Silk Amino Acids, Hydroxypropyl Arginine Lauryl / Myristyl Ether HCl, Hydroxypropyltrimonium Gelatin, Hydroxypropyltrimonium Hydrolyzed Casein,
  • Suitable plant extracts are extracts that can be made from any part of a plant.
  • extracts are produced by extraction of the whole plant. However, in individual cases it may also be preferred to prepare the extracts exclusively from flowers and / or leaves of the plant.
  • hair treatment agents containing the cationic copolymer X are the extracts of green tea, stinging nettle, witch hazel, chamomile, aloe vera, ginseng, echinacea purpurea, olea europea and / or Boerhavia diffusa roots.
  • alcohols and mixtures thereof can be used as extraction agent for the preparation of said plant extracts water.
  • the alcohols are lower alcohols such as ethanol and isopropanol, but especially polyhydric alcohols such as ethylene glycol and propylene glycol, both as sole extractant and in admixture with water, are preferred.
  • Plant extracts based on water / propylene glycol in a ratio of 1:10 to 10: 1 have proven to be particularly suitable.
  • the plant extracts can be used both in pure and in diluted form. If they are used in diluted form, they usually contain about 2 to 80 wt .-% of active substance and as a solvent used in their extraction agent or extractant mixture.
  • the plant extracts may in the respective hair treatment compositions containing the cationic copolymer X (based on their total weight) preferably in an amount of 0.01 to 10 wt .-%, preferably 0.05 to 7.5 wt .-% and in particular 0.1 to 5 wt .-% are used.
  • Suitable moisturizers or penetration aids and / or swelling agents which can be added to the cationic copolymer X-containing hair treatment compositions include urea and urea derivatives, guanidine and its derivatives, arginine and its derivatives, water glass, imidazole and its derivatives, histidine and its derivatives , Benzyl alcohol, glycerol, glycol and glycol ethers, propylene glycol and propylene glycol ethers, for example propylene glycol monoethyl ether, carbonates, bicarbonates, diols and triols, and in particular 1, 2-diols and 1, 3-diols such as 1, 2-propanediol, 1, 2-pentanediol , 1, 2-hexanediol, 1, 2-dodecanediol, 1, 3-propanediol, 1, 6-hexanediol, 1, 5-pentanediol, 1, 4-butan
  • the humectants may in the compositions containing the cationic copolymer X - based on their total weight - preferably in amounts of 0.01 to 10 wt .-%, more preferably in amounts of 0.05 to 5 wt .-% and in particular in amounts of 0.1 to 3 wt .-% included.
  • compositions containing the cationic copolymer X are, for example:
  • Thickening agents such as gelatin or vegetable gums, for example agar-agar, guar gum, alginates, xanthan gum, gum arabic, karaya gum, locust bean gum, linseed gums, dextrans, cellulose derivatives, e.g. As methylcellulose, hydroxyalkylcellulose and carboxymethylcellulose, starch fractions and derivatives such as amylose, amylopectin and dextrins, clays and phyllosilicates such. As bentonite or fully synthetic hydrocolloids such.
  • polyvinyl alcohol the Ca, Mg or Zn - soaps,
  • Structurants such as maleic acid and lactic acid
  • fiber-structure-improving active ingredients in particular mono-, di- and oligosaccharides such as, for example, glucose, galactose, fructose, fructose and lactose,
  • Substances for adjusting the pH for example ⁇ - and ⁇ -hydroxycarboxylic acids such as citric acid, lactic acid, malic acid, glycolic acid,
  • Active ingredients such as bisabolol,
  • Ceramides are understood as meaning N-acylsphingosine (fatty acid amides of sphingosine) or synthetic analogs of such lipids (so-called pseudo-ceramides), Propellants such as propane-butane mixtures, N 2 O, dimethyl ether, C0 2 and air,
  • Bodying agents such as sugar esters, polyol esters or polyol alkyl ethers,
  • Preservatives such as sodium benzoate or salicylic acid
  • Viscosity regulators such as salts (NaCl).
  • the hair-treatment compositions containing the cationic copolymer X preferably have a pH in the range from 1.5 to 7.5, preferably from 2 to 6.5 and in particular from 2.5 to 6.
  • the artificially produced hair colors proved to be more resistant to perspiration, heat and / or sun, as well as to treatments with surfactant-containing agents (light, perspiration, wash fastness).
  • dyed hair after treatment with the cationic copolymer X-containing cosmetic hair treatment agents had more suppleness, smoothness, color brilliance and increased gloss.
  • a second subject of the invention is a process for improving the fastness properties of dyed and / or bleached keratinic fibers, in which a cosmetic hair treatment composition containing a cationic copolymer X is applied to preferably wet hair, and optionally rinsed again after an exposure time, the cationic copolymer X. contains at least two different ethylenically unsaturated polymerizable components A and B.
  • INCI name polyacrylamides, C 13-1 isoparaffin, laureth-7;

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Abstract

L'invention concerne l'utilisation de copolymères cationiques X comprenant au moins deux composants A et B polymérisables différents à insaturation éthylènique, dans des substances cosmétiques de traitement capillaire, pour améliorer les propriétés de résistance de fibres de kératine colorées et/ou éclaircies.
PCT/EP2011/073311 2010-12-20 2011-12-20 Utilisation de copolymères cationiques pour améliorer les propriétés de résistance de fibres de kératine colorées WO2012084877A2 (fr)

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DE201010063575 DE102010063575A1 (de) 2010-12-20 2010-12-20 Verwendung kationischer Copolymere zur Verbesserung der Echtheitseigenschaften gefärbter keratinischer Fasern
DE102010063575.8 2010-12-20

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EP1547574A1 (fr) 2003-12-25 2005-06-29 Kao Corporation Compositions cosmetiques pour les cheveux
EP1591103A1 (fr) 2004-04-30 2005-11-02 L'oreal Composition détergente comprenant un tensioactif non ionique et un polymère anionique et utlisation pour protéger la couleur
EP1729853A1 (fr) 2004-02-27 2006-12-13 Henkel Kommanditgesellschaft auf Aktien Utilisation de derives d'amidon cationiques pour conserver les couleurs

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EP1547574A1 (fr) 2003-12-25 2005-06-29 Kao Corporation Compositions cosmetiques pour les cheveux
EP1729853A1 (fr) 2004-02-27 2006-12-13 Henkel Kommanditgesellschaft auf Aktien Utilisation de derives d'amidon cationiques pour conserver les couleurs
EP1591103A1 (fr) 2004-04-30 2005-11-02 L'oreal Composition détergente comprenant un tensioactif non ionique et un polymère anionique et utlisation pour protéger la couleur

Cited By (3)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
WO2014095222A2 (fr) * 2012-12-20 2014-06-26 Henkel Ag & Co. Kgaa Utilisation d'un agent pour fibres kératiniques, contenant au moins une association de polymeres speciale pour améliorer la tenue de colorations oxydatives de cheveux
WO2014095222A3 (fr) * 2012-12-20 2014-12-18 Henkel Ag & Co. Kgaa Utilisation d'un agent pour fibres kératiniques, contenant au moins une association de polymeres speciale pour améliorer la tenue de colorations oxydatives de cheveux
US9283167B2 (en) 2012-12-20 2016-03-15 Henkel Ag & Co. Kgaa Use of a product for keratin fibers, containing at least one specific polymer combination for improving the color retention of oxidative hair colorations

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