WO2012084605A9 - Leave-on composition comprising a laponite and an essential oil - Google Patents

Leave-on composition comprising a laponite and an essential oil Download PDF

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Publication number
WO2012084605A9
WO2012084605A9 PCT/EP2011/072588 EP2011072588W WO2012084605A9 WO 2012084605 A9 WO2012084605 A9 WO 2012084605A9 EP 2011072588 W EP2011072588 W EP 2011072588W WO 2012084605 A9 WO2012084605 A9 WO 2012084605A9
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Prior art keywords
weight
essential oil
composition
composition according
skin
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PCT/EP2011/072588
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French (fr)
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WO2012084605A2 (en
WO2012084605A3 (en
Inventor
Sandie Lesch
Catherine Marion
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L'oreal
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Publication of WO2012084605A3 publication Critical patent/WO2012084605A3/en

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    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/19Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing inorganic ingredients
    • A61K8/25Silicon; Compounds thereof
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/92Oils, fats or waxes; Derivatives thereof, e.g. hydrogenation products thereof
    • A61K8/922Oils, fats or waxes; Derivatives thereof, e.g. hydrogenation products thereof of vegetable origin
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61QSPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q19/00Preparations for care of the skin
    • A61Q19/008Preparations for oily skin

Abstract

The present invention relates to a leave-on aqueous composition comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium: a) at least one laponite; b) at least one essential oil; and c) at least one additional hydrophilic gelling agent chosen from gelling agents of natural origin, polysaccharides of biotechnological origin, and mixtures thereof. and also to its use for preventively and/or curatively treating greasy skin and/or acne-prone skin. The invention is also directed towards a non-therapeutic cosmetic process for caring for and/or cleansing the skin, comprising the topical application to the said skin of such a composition.

Description

Leave-on composition comprising a laponite and an essential oil
The present invention relates to a leave-on aqueous composition comprising a laponite, at least one essential oil, and at least one additional hydrophilic gelling agent.
The invention is also directed towards a non-therapeutic cosmetic process for caring for greasy skin and/or acne-prone skin, comprising the topical application to the said keratin materials of such a composition. Various types of cosmetic or dermatological composition for caring for greasy skin and treating acne and/or hyperseborrhoea are available on the market, based on antimicrobial active agents and sebum regulators, which are intended to solve the associated problems such as excess sebum and the presence of spots/comedones, while at the same time moisturizing this type of skin.
Among the products thus found are cleansing compositions based on surfactants that place fatty residues in suspension, such as excess sebum and the residues of cosmetic products used daily, which are liable to accumulate in the skin folds and may block the skin pores and lead to the appearance of spots.
They are efficient and pleasant to use due to the fact that they lather and that they are easily removed. However, these products are generally rinsed off with water and do not afford efficacy that is sufficiently prolonged over time.
In addition, they may prove to be too aggressive on skin that is already damaged and irritated. The skin is then dried out and sensitive. Besides the discomfort resulting therefrom, drying- out of the skin may lead to an overproduction of sebum, which accentuates the shininess of the skin.
Among the products also found are "care compositions" in oil-in-water emulsion form, which comprise emulsifiers, but which, due to the presence of plant or mineral oils in relatively large amounts, are too greasy and are often poorly suited to treating greasy skin. There is thus still a need for stable compositions for efficiently combating the cutaneous imperfections of greasy skin, in the immediate and long term, which are both moisturizing, so as not to dry out the skin, and non-greasy.
The Applicant has discovered that an aqueous composition comprising at least one specific clay and at least one essential oil makes it possible to achieve these objectives. More specifically, a subject of the invention is a leave-on aqueous composition comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium:
a) at least one laponite;
b) at least one essential oil ; and
c) at least one additional hydrophilic gelling agent chosen from gelling agents of natural origin, polysaccharides of biotechnological origin, and mixtures thereof.
The use of laponite, which is capable of forming a gelation network, allows the introduction, into the aqueous or aqueous-alcoholic phase, of hydrophilic active agents such as glycerol, thus making it possible to ensure good moisturization of the skin, without the sensation of greasiness. It moreover allows the introduction of essential oils with antimicrobial and antiinflammatory action. A composition that is satisfactorily stable and homogeneous, without the presence of oil globules, is thus obtained. In addition, a matting effect free of fluff (white particles visible on the skin after application and drying of the product) is obtained on the skin.
The composition according to the invention is a leave-on composition. The term "leave-on" refers to any composition applied directly to keratin materials, in particular the skin, which does not subsequently need to be removed by rinsing with water, as opposed to an aqueous solution comprising surfactants or any other cleansing base for keratin materials.
The term "human keratin materials" means the skin (of the body, face and around the eyes), hair, eyelashes, eyebrows, bodily hair, nails, lips or mucous membranes.
The compositions in accordance with the invention thus show good efficacy in the treatment of cutaneous imperfections of greasy skin, including shiny and/or bright skin, and/or dilation of the skin pores, and/or a thick skin grain, and/or comedones. They also show good efficacy in the treatment of hyperseborrhoea and also good bactericidal activity in decreasing the microorganisms involved in the development of acne, especially Propionibacterium acnes and Propionibacterium granulosum. The invention thus also relates to a non-therapeutic cosmetic process for caring for keratin materials, in particular greasy skin and/or acne-prone skin, comprising the topical application to the said keratin materials of such a composition. Laponite
Laponites are sodium, magnesium mixed silicates also possibly containing lithium, which have a layer structure similar to that of montmorillonites. Preferably, the laponite used in the invention is a sodium, lithium and magnesium silicate.
Laponite is the synthetic form of the natural mineral known as hectorite. The synthetic origin of this family of silicates is of considerable advantage over the natural form, since it allows good control the composition of the product. In addition, laponites have the advantage of having a particle size that is much smaller than that of the natural minerals hectorite and bentonite.
Laponites that may especially be mentioned include the products sold by the company Laporte under the name LAPONITE® XLS, LAPONITE® XLG, LAPONITE® RD or LAPONITE® RDS by the company Rockwood, and more preferably LAPONITE® XLG. The laponite may be present in the composition according to the invention in a content ranging from 0.1% to 15% by weight, preferably from 0.5% to 10% by weight, better still from 1% to 5% and even better still from 2% to 4% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. Essential Oils
According to the definition given in international standard ISO 9235 and adopted by the Commission of the European Pharmacopoeia, an essential oil is an odoriferous product generally of complex composition, obtained from a botanically defined plant raw material, either by steam entrainment, or by dry distillation, or via an appropriate mechanical process without heating (cold pressing). The essential oil is usually separated from the aqueous phase via a physical process that does not result in any significant change in the composition.
RECTI FI ED SH EET (RU LE 91)
ISA/ EP Modes for obtaining essential oils
The choice of technique depends mainly on the starting material: its original state and its characteristics, its actual nature. The "essential oil/plant starting material" yield may be extremely variable depending on the plant: 15 ppm to more than 20%. This choice conditions the characteristics of the essential oil, in particular viscosity, colour, solubility, volatility, richness or poorness in certain constituents.
Steam entrainment:
Steam entrainment corresponds to vaporization in the presence of steam of a sparingly water- miscible substance. The starting material is placed in contact with boiling water or steam in an alambic. The steam entrains the essential oil vapour, which is condensed in the condenser and recovered as a liquid phase in a Florentine vase (or essence jar) where the essential oil is separated from the water by settling. The aqueous distillate that remains after the steam entrainment, once the separation of the essential oil has been performed, is known as the "aromatic water" or "hydrolate" or "distilled floral water".
Dry distillation:
The essential oil is obtained by distillation of woods, barks or roots, without addition of water or steam, in a closed chamber designed so that the liquid is recovered at the bottom. Cade oil is the best known example of a product obtained in this way.
Cold pressing:
This production method applies only to citrus fruits (Citrus spp.) via mechanical processes at room temperature. The principle of the method is as follows: the zests are torn into pieces and the contents of the secretory sacs that have been broken are recovered by a physical process. The standard process consists in exerting an abrasive action on the entire surface of the fruit under a stream of water. After removal of the solid waste, the essential oil is separated from the aqueous phase by centrifugation. The majority of industrial installations allow simultaneous or sequential recovery of the fruit juices and of the essential oil.
Physicochemical characteristics Essential oils are generally volatile and liquid at room temperature, which distinguishes them from "set" oils. They are more or less coloured and their density is generally less than that of water. They have a high refractive index and most of them deflect polarized light. They are liposoluble and soluble in the usual organic solvents, entrainable with steam, and very sparingly soluble in water.
They are composed of molecules with a carbon backbone, the number of carbon atoms generally being between 5 and 22.
The main chemical classes of compounds present in essential oils are:
- terpene and sesquiterpene hydrocarbons, for instance:
essential oil of terebenthine: a-pinene, camphene;
essential oil of juniper: a-pinene, camphene, cadinene;
essential oil of lemon: limonene.
- alcohols, for instance:
essential oil of coriander: linalool;
essential oil of rosewood: linalool;
essential oil of rose: geraniol.
- mixtures of esters and alcohols, for instance:
essential oil of lavender: linalool and linalyl acetate;
essential oil of mint: menthol and menthyl acetate. - aldehydes, for instance:
essential oil of cinnamon: cinnamaldehyde;
essential oil of citronella: citral and citronellal;
essential oil of Eucalyptus citrodora: citronellal. - ketones, for instance:
essential oil of caraway: carvone;
essential oil of sage: thuyone;
essential oil of thuya: thuyone. - phenols
essential oil of thyme: thymol;
essential oil of savory: carvacrol;
essential oil of oregano: thymol and carvacrol;
essential oil of clove: eugenol.
- ethers, for instance:
essential oil of anise, of star anise: anethole;
essential oil of fennel: anethole;
essential oil of Eucalyptus globulus: eucalyptol;
essential oil of cajuput: eucalyptol;
essential oil of paperbark tree. - peroxides, for instance:
essential oil of Good-King-Henry: ascaridol;
essential oil of garlic: allicin.
Essential oils are constituted in the vast majority of a complex mixture of compounds belonging to these various chemical families.
Raw materials
The plant raw materials used for producing essential oils are generally whole plants or plant parts (for instance the leaves, stalks, flowers, petals, seeds, fruit, buds and roots) which are in various states of dryness (dry, withered or fresh form).
The plants may be cultivated in vivo or obtained from in vitro cultivation.
The term "in vivo cultivation" means any cultivation of standard type, i.e. in soil in the open air or in a greenhouse, or alternatively out of the soil.
The term "in vitro cultivation" means all the techniques known to those skilled in the art for artificially obtaining a plant or a plant part. The selection pressure imposed by the physicochemical conditions during the growth of plant cells in vitro makes it possible to obtain a standardized plant material that is available throughout the year, in contrast with plants cultivated in vitro.
Among the essential oils that may be used in the composition according to the invention, mention may be made of those obtained from plants belonging to the following botanical families:
Abietaceae or Pinaceae; Amaryllidaceae; Anacardiaceae; Anonaceae (ylang-ylang); Apiaceae (dill, angelica, coriander, sea fennel, carrot, parsley); Araceae; Aristolochiaceae; Asteraceae (achillea, artemisia, camomile, helichrysum); Betulaceae; Brassicaceae; Burseraceae (incense); Caryophyllaceae; Canellaceae; Cesalpiniaceae (copaiba balsam); Chenopodaceae; Cistaceae (cistus); Cyperaceae; Dipterocarpaceae; Ericaceae (gaultheria); Euphorbiaceae; Fabaceae; Geraniaceae (geranium); Guttiferae; Hamamelidaceae; Hernandiaceae; Hypericaceae (St John's wort); Iridaceae; Juglandaceae; Lamiaceae (thyme, oregano, monarda, savory, basil, marjorams, mints, patchouli, lavenders, sages, lemon catnip, rosemary, hyssop, balm, rosemary); Lauraceae (ravensara, laurel, rosewood, cinnamon, litsea); Liliaceae (garlic); Magnoliaceae (magnolia); Malvaceae; Meliaceae; Monimiaceae; Moraceae (hemp, hop); Myricaceae; Mysristicaceae: (nutmeg); Myrtaceae (eucalyptus, tea tree, paperbark tree, cajuput, backhousia, clove, myrtle); Oleaceae; Piperaceae (pepper); Pittosporaceae; Poaceae (citronella, lemongrass, vetiver); Polygonaceae; Renonculaceae; Rosaceae (roses); Rubiaceae; Rutaceae (all citrus plants); Salicaceae; Santalaceae (sandalwood); Saxifragaceae; Schisandraceae; Styracaceae (benjoin); Thymelaceae (agar wood); Tilliaceae; Valerianaceae (valerian, spikenard); Verbenaceae (lantana, verveine); Violaceae; Zingiberaceae (galangal, curcuma, cardamom, ginger); Zygophyllaceae. The preferential essential oils in accordance with the invention are chosen from the following essential oils: lemon catnip, citronella, clove, lemongrass, lemon balm, green oregano, rosemary cineole, mountain savory and thymol thyme, and mixtures thereof.
According to one embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises the following essential oils: lemon catnip, citronella, clove, lemongrass, lemon balm, green oregano, rosemary cineole, mountain savory, thymol thyme.
According to one embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises: - from 0.005% to 0.1% by weight, preferably 0.007% to 0.05% by weight and better still from 0.008%) to 0.02% by weight of each following essential oil: lemon catnip, citronella, clove, green oregano, mountain savory, thymol thyme.
- from 0.001% to 0.01% by weight and preferably from 0.002% to 0.05% by weight of essential oil of balm and
- from 0.001% to 0.01% by weight and preferably from 0.002% to 0.005% by weight of essential oil of balm and
- from 0.05%) to 0.5% by weight and preferably from 0.1%> to 0.4% by weight of each following essential oil: lemongrass and rosemary cineole.
According to one particular embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises:
0.01%) by weight of each following essential oil: lemon catnip, citronella, clove, green oregano, thymol thyme.
- 0.015%) by weight of essential oil of mountain savory,
0.005%) by weight of essential oil of balm,
0.1%) by weight of essential oil of rosemary cineole and
0.33%) by weight of essential oil of lemongrass. The essential oil(s) are advantageously present in a composition according to the invention in a total content ranging from 0.001%) to 10% by weight, preferentially from 0.01% to 5% by weight, more particularly from 0.05% to 1% by weight, better still from 0.1% to 1% by weight and even better still from 0.3% to 0.5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
Aqueous phase
The composition according to the invention comprises an aqueous phase comprising water and/or hydrophilic solvents.
The amount of water in the composition may range, for example, from 30% to 95% by weight, preferably from 40% to 90% by weight, better still from 50% to 80% by weight and even better still from 60% to 80% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. The composition may also comprise a polyol that is water-miscible at room temperature (25°C) chosen especially from polyols especially containing from 2 to 20 carbon atoms, preferably containing from 2 to 10 carbon atoms and preferentially containing from 2 to 6 carbon atoms, such as glycerol, 1,3-propanediol, propylene glycol, butylene glycol, pentylene glycol, hexylene glycol, dipropylene glycol or diethylene glycol, and mixtures thereof.
In particular, the composition comprises at least glycerol as moisturizer.
The water-miscible polyol may be present in a content ranging from 1% to 20% by weight, preferably ranging from 1% to 15% by weight, better still ranging from 2% to 10% by weight and even better still ranging from 3% to 7% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
In addition, the composition according to the invention may comprise a monoalcohol containing from 2 to 6 carbon atoms, such as ethanol or isopropanol, especially in a content ranging from 1% to 25% by weight, preferably ranging from 5% to 20% by weight and better still from 10% to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
The composition according to the invention comprises at least one additional hydrophilic gelling agent (or thickener), other than laponite, chosen from gelling agents of natural origin, polysaccharides of biotechnological origin, and mixtures thereof.
This plant-derived polysaccharide may, where appropriate, be chemically modified to promote its hydrophilic valency, as is the case for cellulose derivatives, in particular hydroxyalkylcelluloses (e.g. : hydroxyethylcellulose).
As examples of polysaccharides that may be used according to the invention, mention may be made especially of: a) algal extracts such as alginates, carrageenans and agar-agar, and mixtures thereof.
Examples of carrageenans that may be mentioned include Satiagum UTC30® and
UTC10® from the company Degussa; an alginate that may be mentioned is the sodium alginate sold under the name Kelcosol® by the company ISP;
b) gums, such as xanthan gum, guar gum and nonionic derivatives thereof (hydroxypropyl guar), gum arabic, konjac gum or mannan gum, gum tragacanth, ghatti gum, karaya gum, locust bean gum; agar gum, scleroglucan gums and mixtures thereof; examples that may be mentioned include the guar gum sold under the name Jaguar HP 105® by the company Rhodia; mannan gum and konjac gum® (1% glucomannan) sold by the company GfN;
c) starches, which are preferably modified, such as those derived, for example, from cereals such as wheat, corn or rice, from legumes such as white lentil, from tubers such as potato or cassava, tapioca starches; dextrins, such as corn dextrins; Amidon de Mais B® from the company Roquette; potato feculent modified with 2- chloroethylaminodipropionic acid neutralized with sodium hydroxide, sold under the name Structure Solanace® by the company National Starch; native tapioca starch powder sold under the name Tapioca Pure® by the company National Starch;
d) dextrins, such as dextrin extracted from corn under the name Index® from the company National Starch;
e) celluloses and derivatives thereof, in particular alkyl or hydroxyalkyl celluloses; mention may be made especially of methylcelluloses, hydroxyalkylcelluloses, ethylhydroxyethylcelluloses and carboxymethylcelluloses. Examples that may be mentioned include the cetylhydroxyethylcelluloses sold under the names Polysurf 67CS® and Natrosol Plus 330® from Aqualon;
f) pectins,
g) chitosan and derivatives thereof,
h) polyholosides comprising at least two saccharides, preferably of natural origin, and especially chosen from:
- aldoses such as
. pentoses: ribose, arabinose, xylose or apiose, for example,
. hexoses: glucose, fucose, mannose or galactose, for example,
- ketoses such as fructose,
- deoxyoses, such as rhamnose, digitoxose, le cymarose or oleandrose,
- saccharide derivatives such as uronic acids, for instance mannuronic acid, guluronic acid, galacturonic acid or glycuronic acid, or itols, for instance mannitol or sorbitol.
Mention may be made in particular of the polyoside comprising fucose, galactose and galacturonic acid units, and for example a linear sequence of a- L-fucose, oc-D-galactose and galacturonic acid, for instance Fucogel 1000 PP® (from Solabia),
i) anionic polysaccharides, in particular of biotechnological origin, such as anionic polysaccharide bearing as repeating unit a tetrasaccharide composed of L-fucose, D- glucose and glucuronic acid, such as the product bearing the INCI name Biosaccharide
Gum-4 sold under the reference Glycofilm 1.5P by the company Solabia,
and mixtures thereof.
The additional gelling agent may be present in the composition according to the invention in a content ranging from 0.1% to 15% by weight, preferably from 0.2% to 10% by weight and better still from 0.2% to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
According to one embodiment, the composition comprises at least one additional gelling agent chosen from gums, in particular xanthan gum, modified starches, in particular rice starch, and pectins, and mixtures thereof.
In particular, the composition comprises a gum, in particular xanthan gum, in a content ranging from 0.1% to 0.5% by weight, a modified starch, in particular rice starch, in a content ranging from 1% to 5% by weight, and a pectin in a content ranging from 0.1% to 0.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
According to one embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises less than 1.5% by weight of synthetic thickening or gelling polymers, preferably less than 1%, better still less than 0.5%, or even less than 0.2% by weight. It may be totally free of synthetic thickening or gelling polymers.
Such synthetic polymers are, for example, acrylic polymers (of the Carbopol family), acrylic/alkyl acrylate copolymers or (co)polymers based on 2-acrylamido-2- methylpropanesulfonic acid (for example the polymers sold under the name Pemulen, Sepigel or Simulgel, or Aristoflex). According to one embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises less than 5%), preferably less than 2% and preferably less than 1% of oils (besides the essential oils). In particular, it may be free of oils other than the essential oils. In particular, the composition comprises less than 5%, preferably less than 2% and preferably less than 1% of fatty substance that is liquid, solid or pasty at 25°C (besides the essential oils).
According to one embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises less than 5%, preferably less than 2% and preferably less than 1% of emulsifier (or surfactant).
In a known manner, the cosmetic or dermatological composition of the invention may also contain adjuvants that are common in cosmetics or dermatology, such as preserving agents, solvents, fragrances, fillers, UV-screening agents, odour absorbers, dyestuffs, basic agents, acids, and additional active agents for caring for greasy skin.
Fillers that may be mentioned include mineral fillers such as silica, clays, ceramic beads, talc or magnesium silicate (particle size: 5 microns) sold under the name Luzenac 15 MOO® by the company Luzenac, or organic fillers such as starches, which are preferably unmodified, for instance corn starch, for example the product sold under the name Amidon de Mai's B® by the company Roquette, rice starch, for instance the rice starch Remy DR I® sold by the company Remy, Natpure Hollow Bead or Cellulobead D-10 spheres, Nylon microspheres such as those sold under the name Orgasol 2002 UD Nat Cos® by the company Atochem, microspheres based on expanded vinylidene chloride/acrylonitrile/methacrylonitrile copolymer containing isobutane, such as the products sold under the name Expancel 551 DE® by the company Expancel.
Fillers that may also be mentioned include exfoliant particles that allow scrubbing of the skin. Exfoliant particles that may be used include exfoliant or scrubbing particles of mineral, plant or organic origin. Thus, it is possible to use polyethylene beads or powder, such as those sold under the name Microthene MN 727 or Microthene MN 710-20 by the company Equistar or such as the powder sold under the name Gotalene 120 Incolore 2 by the company Dupont; Nylon particles, such as those sold by the company Arkema under the name Orgasol 2002 Exd Nat Cos; polyvinyl chloride powder; pumice, for instance ponce 3/B from Eyraud; ground shells of fruit kernels, such as ground apricot kernels or walnut shells; sawdust, wood flour, cork flour; glass beads; alumina (aluminium oxide) (INCI name: Alumina), for instance the product sold under the name Dermagrain 900 by the company Marketech International; sugar crystals; beads that melt when applied to the skin, for instance the spheres based on mannitols and cellulose sold under the name Unispheres by the company Induchem, agar- based capsules sold under the name Primasponge by the company Cognis, and spheres based on jojoba esters sold under the name Floraspheres by the company Floratech; and mixtures thereof.
The amounts of these various adjuvants are those conventionally used in the field under consideration, and represent, for example, from 0.01% to 20% of the total weight of the composition. Needless to say, a person skilled in the art will take care to select this or these optional additional ingredients and/or active agents, and/or the amount thereof, such that the advantageous properties of the essential oil according to the invention are not, or are not substantially, adversely affected by the envisaged addition. The composition according to the invention may be cosmetic or dermatological.
For the purposes of the present invention, a cosmetic composition denotes a composition that is capable of producing an aesthetic effect and comfort on the skin, or alternatively that has a beauty purpose, for example in order to protect it, keep it in good condition, modify its appearance, and especially embellish it.
The composition according to the invention is preferably in the form of an aqueous gel.
The composition according to the invention contains a physiologically acceptable medium, i.e. a medium that is compatible with the skin, the nails, mucous membranes, tissues and the hair.
The physiologically acceptable medium is preferentially a cosmetically or pharmaceutically acceptable medium, especially a dermatologically acceptable medium, i.e. a medium that has no unpleasant odour, colour or appearance, and that does not cause the user any unacceptable stinging, tautness or redness.
According to one preferred embodiment of the invention, the composition has a pH preferably close to that of the skin, between 4 and 7. The examples that follow illustrate the invention without limiting its scope. The compounds are, depending on the case, cited as the chemical names or as the CTFA names (International Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary and Handbook). The compositions are manufactured in a manner that is conventional to those skilled in the art. The amounts are given as mass percentages relative to the total weight of the composition.
Examples 1 and 2: care compositions for greasy skin
Figure imgf000015_0001
Procedure:
The laponite or kaolin is introduced into the water/glycerol mixture with stirring. After 20 minutes, the xanthan gum and the pectin may be added. This is followed by the introduction of the mixture of essential oils and of alcohol. The starch powder is added at the end.
The appearance of the compositions is observed 24 hours after manufacture: comparative composition 2 is thick and has globules of essential oil at the surface.
RECTI FI ED SH EET (RULE 91)
! SA/ EP The composition of Example 1 according to the invention is a smooth, homogeneous gel. These examples show that the choice of a laponite makes it possible to obtain a non-greasy composition incorporating moisturizing and antibacterial active agents, which is stable and homogeneous, when compared with a conventional clay, and which is suitable for treating greasy skin.

Claims

1. Leave-on aqueous composition comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium: a) at least one laponite;
b) at least one essential oil ; and
c) at least one additional hydrophilic gelling agent chosen from gelling agents of natural origin, polysaccharides of biotechnological origin, and mixtures thereof.
2. Composition according to Claim 1, characterized in that the laponite is a sodium, lithium and magnesium silicate.
3. Composition according to either of the preceding claims, characterized in that the laponite is present in a content ranging from 0.1% to 15% by weight, preferably ranging from 0.5% to 10% by weight, better still from 1% to 5% by weight and even better still from 2% to 4% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
4. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the essential oil is chosen from the following essential oils: lemon catnip, citronella, clove, lemongrass, lemon balm, green oregano, rosemary cineole, mountain savory, thymol thyme, and mixtures thereof.
5. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it comprises the following essential oils: lemon catnip, citronella, clove, lemongrass, lemon balm, green oregano, rosemary cineole, mountain savory, thymol thyme.
6. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it comprises:
- from 0.005% to 0.1% by weight, preferably 0.007% to 0.05% by weight and better still from 0.008%> to 0.02% by weight of each following essential oil: lemon catnip, citronella, clove, green oregano, mountain savory, thymol thyme. - from 0.001% to 0.01% by weight and preferably from 0.002% to 0.05% by weight of essential oil of balm and
- from 0.001% to 0.01% by weight and preferably from 0.002% to 0.005% by weight of essential oil of balm and
- from 0.05% to 0.5% by weight and preferably from 0.1% to 0.4% by weight of each following essential oil: lemongrass and rosemary cineole.
7. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it comprises:
0.01%) by weight of each following essential oil: lemon catnip, citronella, clove, green oregano, thymol thyme.
0.015%) by weight of essential oil of mountain savory,
0.005%) by weight of essential oil of balm,
0.1%) by weight of essential oil of rosemary cineole and
0.33%) by weight of essential oil of lemongrass.
8. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the essential oil(s) are present in the said composition in a total content ranging from 0.001%) to 10%) by weight, preferentially from 0.01% to 5% by weight, more particularly from 0.05% to 1% by weight, better still from 0.1% to 1% by weight and even better still from 0.3% to 0.5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
9. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it comprises a water-miscible polyol.
10. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it comprises glycerol.
1 1. Composition according to either of the preceding claims, characterized in that the water-miscible polyol is present in a content ranging from 1% to 20% by weight, preferably from 1% to 15% by weight, better still from 2% to 10% by weight and even better still from 3% to 7% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
12. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the additional gelling agent is chosen from gums, in particular xanthan gum, and pectins, and mixtures thereof.
13. Composition according to the preceding claim, characterized in that the additional gelling agent is present in a content ranging from 0.1% to 15% by weight, preferably from 0.2% to 10% by weight and better still from 0.2% to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
14. Non-therapeutic cosmetic process for caring for greasy skin and/or acne-prone skin, comprising the topical application to the said skin of a composition as defined in any one of Claims 1 to 13.
PCT/EP2011/072588 2010-12-20 2011-12-13 Leave-on composition comprising a laponite and an essential oil WO2012084605A2 (en)

Applications Claiming Priority (4)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
FR1060830A FR2968989B1 (en) 2010-12-20 2010-12-20 NON-RINSE COMPOSITION COMPRISING LAPONITE AND ESSENTIAL OIL
FR1060830 2010-12-20
US201161436215P 2011-01-26 2011-01-26
US61/436,215 2011-01-26

Publications (3)

Publication Number Publication Date
WO2012084605A2 WO2012084605A2 (en) 2012-06-28
WO2012084605A9 true WO2012084605A9 (en) 2013-03-28
WO2012084605A3 WO2012084605A3 (en) 2013-08-22

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FR (1) FR2968989B1 (en)
WO (1) WO2012084605A2 (en)

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Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
FR2998478B1 (en) * 2012-11-23 2015-06-05 Oreal USE OF A MIXTURE OF ESSENTIAL OILS AS A DESQUAMANT AGENT
FR2999925B1 (en) * 2012-12-20 2015-02-06 Oreal ESSENTIAL OIL OF CATARAN CITRONNEE TO PREVENT SKIN AGING.
FR3004939B1 (en) * 2013-04-26 2015-05-22 Oreal SATUREJA MONTANA ESSENTIAL OIL WITH HIGH GERANIOL CONTENT AND USE FOR TREATING FAT SKINS AND / OR ASSOCIATED AESTHETIC DEFECTS
CN114797730B (en) * 2022-05-23 2023-09-01 浙江科磊新材料有限公司 Preparation device and preparation process of modified hectorite

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GB1304090A (en) * 1970-11-27 1973-01-24
US20080274072A1 (en) * 2007-05-04 2008-11-06 John Manolas Insect repellants and insecticides
FR2930434B1 (en) * 2008-04-25 2012-06-08 Courtage Et De Diffusion Codif Internat Soc D USE OF A ORGANOPHILE CLAY FOR THE PRODUCTION OF SELF-GELIFYING MASKS FOR COSMETIC USE

Also Published As

Publication number Publication date
WO2012084605A2 (en) 2012-06-28
WO2012084605A3 (en) 2013-08-22
FR2968989B1 (en) 2013-02-15
FR2968989A1 (en) 2012-06-22

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