WO2012084336A2 - Agents de traitement capillaire contenant un ou plusieurs tensioactifs et un ou plusieurs hydrolysats de kératine cationiques - Google Patents

Agents de traitement capillaire contenant un ou plusieurs tensioactifs et un ou plusieurs hydrolysats de kératine cationiques Download PDF

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WO2012084336A2
WO2012084336A2 PCT/EP2011/069932 EP2011069932W WO2012084336A2 WO 2012084336 A2 WO2012084336 A2 WO 2012084336A2 EP 2011069932 W EP2011069932 W EP 2011069932W WO 2012084336 A2 WO2012084336 A2 WO 2012084336A2
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weight
preferred
acid
cationic
hair treatment
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PCT/EP2011/069932
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German (de)
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WO2012084336A3 (fr
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Thomas Hippe
Marlene Battermann
Denise Fuhr
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Henkel Ag & Co. Kgaa
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Publication of WO2012084336A3 publication Critical patent/WO2012084336A3/fr

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    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q5/00—Preparations for care of the hair
    • A61Q5/002—Preparations for repairing the hair, e.g. hair cure
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/40—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing nitrogen
    • A61K8/41—Amines
    • A61K8/416—Quaternary ammonium compounds
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/64—Proteins; Peptides; Derivatives or degradation products thereof
    • A61K8/65—Collagen; Gelatin; Keratin; Derivatives or degradation products thereof

Definitions

  • the invention relates to hair treatment compositions containing certain surfactant (s) and cationic keratin hydrolyzate (s) and to the use of these hair splitting reduction agents.
  • Keratin fiber care products affect the natural structure and properties of hair.
  • the hair is treated with special active ingredients, for example quaternary ammonium salts or special polymers, usually in the form of a rinse.
  • this treatment improves the combability, the hold and the fullness of the hair and reduces the split rate.
  • the known active ingredients can not cover all needs sufficiently.
  • this raw material significantly improves the whitening, combability and luster of hair when it is used in hair treatment preparations in a concentration of at least 0.5% by weight.
  • active ingredients or active substance combinations for cosmetic products with good care properties and good biodegradability.
  • surfactant- and / or electrolyte-containing formulations there is a need for additional skin care ingredients that can be easily incorporated into known formulations and are not weakened in their action due to incompatibilities with other ingredients.
  • a first object of the present invention is therefore the use of hair treatment compositions for the prevention and / or treatment of hair splitting, containing
  • R ' is a straight-chain or branched, saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon radical having 1 to 24 carbon atoms
  • X is -C ( O ) 0- or -N + (R 1 " 2 ) R IV - or -N (R m ) R lv - or -C (O) -N (R V ) R VI -,
  • Hair treatment compositions for the purposes of the present invention are, for example, hair shampoos, hair conditioners, conditioning shampoos, hairsprays, hair conditioners, hair treatments, hair wraps, hair tonics, perming solutions, hair dye shampoos, hair dyes, hair fixatives, hair dressings, hairstyling preparations, hair lotions, mousses, hair gels , Hair waxes or their combinations.
  • agents according to the invention are preferably those agents which the man uses anyway.
  • Preferred agents according to the invention are therefore shampoos, conditioners or hair tonics.
  • the agents according to the invention contain as the first essential ingredient at least one surfactant, surfactants depending on the field of application being referred to as surfactants or as emulsifiers and being selected from anionic, cationic, zwitterionic, ampholytic and nonionic surfactants and emulsifiers.
  • surfactants depending on the field of application being referred to as surfactants or as emulsifiers and being selected from anionic, cationic, zwitterionic, ampholytic and nonionic surfactants and emulsifiers.
  • Hair treatment compositions which are preferred according to the invention are characterized in that they contain, based on their weight, from 0.5 to 70% by weight, preferably from 1 to 60% by weight and in particular from 5 to 25% by weight of anionic and / or nonionic (s) and / or cationic and / or amphoteric surfactant (s).
  • Suitable anionic surfactants and emulsifiers for the compositions according to the invention are all anionic surfactants suitable for use on the human body. These are characterized by a water-solubilizing, anionic group such as. As a carboxylate, sulfate, sulfonate or phosphate group and a lipophilic alkyl group having about 8 to 30 carbon atoms. In addition, glycol or polyglycol ether groups, ester, ether and amide groups as well as hydroxyl groups may be present in the molecule.
  • anionic surfactants and emulsifiers are, in each case in the form of the sodium, potassium and ammonium as well as the mono-, di- and trialkanolammonium salts having 2 to 4 C atoms in the alkanol group,
  • R CO is a linear or branched acyl radical having 6 to 22 carbon atoms and 0, 1, 2 or 3 double bonds and X is hydrogen, an alkali and / or alkaline earth metal, ammonium, alkylammonium, alkanolammonium or glucammonium, for example acylglutamates, which derived from fatty acids having 6 to 22, preferably 12 to 18 carbon atoms, such as C w - or C 2 / i8 coconut fatty acid, lauric acid, myristic acid, palmitic acid and / or stearic acid, in particular sodium-N-cocoyl and sodium-N stearoyl-L-glutamate,
  • esters of a hydroxy-substituted di- or tricarboxylic acid of the general formula (II)
  • X H or a -CH 2 COOR group
  • esters of sulfosuccinic acid or sulfosuccinates of general formula (III) are examples of esters of sulfosuccinic acid or sulfosuccinates of general formula (III),
  • Alkyl sulfates and alkyl polyglycol ether sulfates of the formula R- (O-CH 2 -CH 2) x -OSO 3 H, in which R is a preferably linear alkyl group with 8 to 30 C atoms and x 0 or 1-12,
  • Esters of tartaric acid and citric acid with alcohols the addition products of about 2-15 molecules of ethylene oxide and / or propylene oxide to C 8 .
  • Monoglyceride sulfates and monoglyceride ether sulfates Monoglyceride sulfates and monoglyceride ether sulfates.
  • Preferred anionic surfactants and emulsifiers are acylglutamates, acyl isethionates, acyl sarcosinates and acyl taurates, each with a linear or branched acyl radical having 6 to 22 carbon atoms and 0, 1, 2 or 3 double bonds, which in particularly preferred embodiments of an octanoyl, decanoyl, lauroyl , Myristoyl, palmitoyl and stearoyl radical, esters of tartaric acid, citric acid or succinic acid or the salts of these acids with alkylated glucose, in particular the products with the INCI name Disodium Coco-Glucoside Citrate, Sodium Coco-Glucoside Tartrate and Disodium Coco-glucosides sulfosuccinates, alkyl polyglycol ether sulfates and ether carboxylic acids having 8 to 18 carbon atoms in the alkyl group and up to 12 ethoxy groups in the
  • Zwitterionic surfactants and emulsifiers are those surface-active compounds which carry in the molecule at least one quaternary ammonium group and at least one --COO ( - ) or -SO 3 ( - ) group.
  • Particularly suitable zwitterionic surfactants and emulsifiers are the so-called betaines such as N-alkyl-N, N-dimethylammonium glycinates, for example cocoalkyldimethylammonium glycinate, N-acylaminopropyl-N, N-dimethylammonium glycinates, for example cocoacylaminopropyldimethylammonium glycinate, and 2-alkyl-3 carboxymethyl-3-hydroxyethyl-imidazolines each having 8 to 18 carbon atoms in the alkyl or acyl group, and the cocoacylaminoethylhydroxyethylcarboxymethylglycinate.
  • alkyl sulfates, alkyl polyglycol ether sulfates and ether carboxylic acid salts having 10 to 18 C atoms in the alkyl group and up to 12 glycol ether groups in the molecule and sulfosuccinic acid mono- and dialkyl esters having 8 to 18 C atoms in the alkyl group and sulfosuccinic monoalkylpolyoxyethylester with 8 to 18 carbon atoms in the alkyl group and 1 to 6 oxyethyl groups.
  • Particularly preferred anionic surfactants are the alkali metal or ammonium salts of lauryl ether sulfate having a degree of ethoxylation of 2 to 4 EO.
  • Particularly preferred hair treatment compositions according to the invention are characterized in that they contain, based on their weight, from 0.1 to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.25 to 17.5% by weight and in particular from 5 to 15% by weight of anionic (s ) Surfactant (s), more preferably fatty alcohol ether sulfates of the formula
  • n represents values of from 5 to 21, preferably from 7 to 19, particularly preferably from 9 to 17 and in particular from 1 to 13 and k for values of 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9 or 10, preferably 1, 2 or 3 and especially 2
  • M is a cation from the group Na + , K + NH 4 + , Vi Mg 2+ , Vi Zn 2+ , preferably Na + , stand.
  • Zwitterionic surfactants and emulsifiers are those surface-active compounds which carry in the molecule at least one quaternary ammonium group and at least one --COO ( - ) or -SO 3 ( - ) group.
  • Particularly suitable zwitterionic surfactants and emulsifiers are the so-called betaines, such as N-alkyl-N, N-dimethylammonium glycinates, for example cocoalkyldimethylammonium glycinate, N-acylaminopropyl-N, N-dimethylammonium glycinates, for example cocoacylaminopropyldimethylammonium glycinate, and 3-carboxymethyl-3-hydroxyethyl imidazolines having in each case 8 to 18 C atoms in the alkyl or acyl group, and the cocoacylaminoethylhydroxyethylcarboxymethylglycinate.
  • Ampholytic surfactants and emulsifiers are understood to mean those surface-active compounds which, apart from a C 8 -C 24 -alkyl or -acyl group, contain at least one free amino group and at least one -COOH or -SO 3 H group and are capable of forming internal salts
  • suitable ampholytic surfactants are N-alkylglycines, N-alkylaminopropionic acids, N-alkylaminobutyric acids, N-alkyliminodipropionic acids, N-hydroxyethyl-N-alkylamidopropylglycines, N-alkyltaurines, N-alkylsarcosines, 2-alkylaminopropionic acids and alkylaminoacetic acids each having about 8 to 24 C atoms in the alkyl group.
  • Particularly preferred ampholytic surfactants are N-cocoalkylaminopropionate, cocoacylaminoethylaminopropionate
  • Particularly preferred hair treatment compositions according to the invention are characterized in that they contain amphoteric surfactant (s) from the groups of N-alkylglycines, N-alkylpropionic acids, N-alkylaminobutyric acids, N-alkyliminodipropionic acids, N-hydroxyethyl-N-alkylamidopropylglycines, N-alkyltaurines, N-alkyl sarcosines, 2-alkylaminopropionic acids having in each case about 8 to 24 C atoms in the alkyl group, alkylaminoacetic acids each having about 8 to 24 C atoms in the alkyl group, N-cocoalkylaminopropionate, cocoacylaminoethylaminopropionates, C 2 -C 18 -acylsarcosine, N- Alkyl-N, N-dimethylammonium glycinates, for example cocoalkyl dimethylammoni
  • amphoteric surfactant (s) in amounts of 0.5 to 9 wt .-%, preferably from 0.75 to 8 wt .-% and in particular from 1 to 7.5 wt .-%, each based on the total agent included.
  • Particularly preferred hair treatment compositions contain as amphoteric surfactants betaines of the formula (VI) (VI)
  • R is a straight-chain or branched, saturated or mono- or polyunsaturated alkyl or alkene radical having 8 to 24 carbon atoms.
  • Cocoamidopropylbetaine Representatives derived from coconut fatty acids, are preferred and are referred to as Cocoamidopropylbetaine. According to the invention, particular preference is given to using surfactants of the formula (VI) which are a mixture of the following representatives:
  • agents according to the invention are preferred which, based on their weight, are from 0.25 to 8% by weight, more preferably from 0.5 to 7% by weight, more preferably from 0.75 to 6.5% by weight and in particular 1 to 5.5 wt .-% of surfactant (s) of the formula (VI).
  • the hair-treatment compositions according to the invention may be used with particular preference as amphoteric surfactants betaines of the formula (VII)
  • R is a straight-chain or branched, saturated or mono- or polyunsaturated alkyl or alkene radical having 8 to 24 carbon atoms.
  • These surfactants are referred to according to the INCI nomenclature as amphoacetates, wherein the representatives derived from coconut fatty acids are preferred and are referred to as cocoamphoactetates.
  • surfactants of this type always also contain betaines of the formula (VIIa)
  • R is a straight-chain or branched, saturated or mono- or polyunsaturated alkyl or alkene radical having 8 to 24 carbon atoms and M is a cation.
  • surfactants are referred to according to the INCI nomenclature as Amphodiacetate, wherein the representatives derived from coconut fatty acids are preferred and are referred to as Cocoamphodiactetate.
  • surfactants of the formula (VII) which have a
  • agents according to the invention are preferred, which - based on their weight - 0.25 to
  • nonionic surfactants are alkyl polyglycosides. Accordingly, hair treatment compositions according to the invention are preferred which contain as nonionic surfactants - based on their weight - 0.1 to 20 wt .-% alkylpolyglycosides of the general formula RO- (Z) x , where R is alkyl, Z for sugar and x for the number the sugar units stands.
  • alkylpolyglycosides corresponding to the general formula RO - (Z) x , where R is alkyl, Z is sugar and x is the number of sugar units.
  • R is alkyl
  • Z is sugar
  • x is the number of sugar units.
  • sugar building block Z it is possible to use any desired mono- or oligosaccharides. Usually, sugars with 5 or 6 carbon atoms and the corresponding oligosaccharides are used. Preferred sugar building blocks are glucose, fructose, galactose, arabinose and sucrose; Glucose is particularly preferred.
  • alkylpolyglycosides which can be used according to the invention contain on average 1, 1 to 5 sugar units. Alkyl polyglycosides having x values of 1.1 to 2.0 are preferred. Very particular preference is given to alkyl glycosides in which x is 1: 1 to 1, 8.
  • compositions according to the invention which can be used particularly advantageously in the compositions according to the invention, especially in admixture with alkylpolyglycosides, are glutamates, asparaginates and sulfoacetates.
  • hair treatment compositions according to the invention are preferred which contain, based on their weight, 0.1 to 20% by weight of fatty acid glutamates (acylglutamates) and / or fatty acid asparaginates (acylasparaginates) and / or alkylsulfoacetates (sulfoacetic acid alkyl esters).
  • R-CO is a linear or branched acyl radical having 6 to 22 carbon atoms and 0 and / or 1, 2 or 3 double bonds and X is hydrogen, an alkali and / or alkaline earth metal, ammonium, alkylammonium, alkanolammonium or glucammonium , Products for sale are available, for example, from Hoechst AG, Frankfurt / DE or Ajinomoto Co. Inc., Tokyo / JP.
  • acylglutamates are anionic surfactants derived from fatty acids having 6 to 22, preferably 12 to 18 carbon atoms, such as C12 / 14 or C12 / 18 coconut fatty acid, lauric acid, myristic acid, palmitic acid and / or stearic acid. Particularly preferred are sodium N-cocoyl and sodium N-stearoyl-L-glutamate.
  • compositions according to the invention may contain the alkyl and / or alkenyl oligoglucosides and the acyl glutamates in a weight ratio of 1:99 to 99: 1, preferably 10:90 to 90:10 and in particular 80:20 to 50:50.
  • R-CO is a linear or branched acyl radical having 6 to 22 carbon atoms and 0 and / or 1, 2 or 3 double bonds and X is hydrogen, an alkali and / or alkaline earth metal, ammonium, alkylammonium, alkanolammonium or glucammonium , Products for sale are available, for example, from Hoechst AG, Frankfurt / DE or Ajinomoto Co. Inc., Tokyo / JP.
  • acylasparaginates are anionic surfactants derived from fatty acids having 6 to 22, preferably 12 to 18 carbon atoms, such as C12 / 14 or C12 / 18 coconut fatty acid, lauric acid, myristic acid, palmitic acid and / or stearic acid. Particularly preferred are sodium N-cocoyl and sodium N-stearoyl-L-aspartate.
  • the agents according to the invention may also contain the alkyl and / or alkenyl oligoglucosides and the acylasparaginates in a weight ratio of 1:99 to 99: 1, preferably 10:90 to 90:10 and in particular 80:20 to 50:50.
  • Sulfoacetates are usually salts of esters of sulfoacetic acid and can be represented by the general formula
  • R is a linear or branched alkyl or alkenyl radical having 6 to 22 carbon atoms and 0 and / or 1, 2 or 3 double bonds and X is hydrogen, an alkali and / or alkaline earth metal, ammonium, alkylammonium, alkanolammonium or glucammonium stands.
  • X is hydrogen, an alkali and / or alkaline earth metal, ammonium, alkylammonium, alkanolammonium or glucammonium stands.
  • Particularly preferred is the use of the sodium salt of sulfoacetic acid with the INCI name: sodium lauryl sulfoacetate):
  • Sodium lauryl sulphoacetate is a white, free-flowing powder which reacts neutrally, with good foaming power, wetting power and dispersibility.
  • cationic surfactants of the quaternary ammonium compound type, as described below. Esterquats according to the formula (Tkat1 -2) form the first group.
  • radicals R1, R2 and R3 are each independently and may be the same or different.
  • the radicals R1, R2 and R3 mean:
  • branched or unbranched alkyl radical having 1 to 4 carbon atoms, which may contain at least one hydroxyl group, or
  • an aryl or alkaryl radical for example phenyl or benzyl, the radical (--X - R4), with the proviso that at most 2 of the radicals R1, R2 or R3 can stand for this radical:
  • the rest - (X - R4) is contained at least 1 to 3 times.
  • n 1 to 200, preferably 1 to 100, particularly preferably 1 to 50, and particularly preferably 1 to 20 with R 5 in the meaning of hydrogen, methyl or ethyl,
  • hydroxyalkyl group of one to four carbon atoms which may be branched or unbranched, and which contains at least one and at most 3 hydroxy groups.
  • Examples are: -CH 2 OH, -CH 2 CH 2 OH, -CHOHCHOH, -CH 2 CHOHCH 3 , -CH (CH 2 OH) 2 , -COH (CH 2 OH) 2 , -CH 2 CHOHCH 2 OH, CH 2 CH 2 CH 2 OH and hydroxybutyl radicals,
  • R6-0-CO- wherein R6 is a saturated or unsaturated, branched or unbranched or cyclic saturated or unsaturated alkyl radical having 6 to 30 carbon atoms, which may contain at least one hydroxy group, and which optionally further with 1 to 100 ethylene oxide units and or 1 to 100 propylene oxide units may be ethoxylated, or
  • R 7 -CO- wherein R 7 is a saturated or unsaturated, branched or unbranched or cyclic saturated or unsaturated alkyl radical having 6 to 30 carbon atoms, which may contain at least one hydroxy group, and which optionally further with 1 to 100 ethylene oxide units and / or 1 to 100 propylene oxide units can be ethoxylated,
  • A is a physiologically acceptable organic or inorganic anion and is defined here as representative of all structures also described below.
  • the anion of all described cationic compounds is selected from the halide ions, fluoride, chloride, bromide, iodide, sulfates of the general formula RSO 3 " , wherein R has the meaning of saturated or unsaturated alkyl radicals having 1 to 4 carbon atoms, or anionic radicals of organic acids such as Maleate, fumarate, oxalate, tartrate, citrate, lactate or acetate.
  • Such products are marketed under the trademarks Rewoquat ®, Stepantex® ®, Dehyquart® ®, ® and Armocare® Akypoquat ®.
  • the products Armocare ® VGH-70, Dehyquart ® F-75, Dehyquart ® C-4046 Dehyquart ® L80, Dehyquart ® F-30, Dehyquart ® AU-35, Rewoquat ® WE18, Rewoquat ® WE38 DPG, Stepantex ® VS 90 and Akypoquat ® 131 are examples of these esterquats.
  • Tkat1 -2 Further compounds of the formula (Tkat1 -2) which are particularly preferred according to the invention include the formula (Tkat1 -2.1), the cationic betaine esters.
  • R8 corresponds in its meaning R7.
  • esterquats with tradenames Armocare ® VGH-70 are, as well as Dehyquart ® F-75, Dehyquart ® L80, Stepantex ® VS 90 and Akypoquat ® 131st
  • Tkat2 Another group are quaternary imidazoline compounds.
  • the formula (Tkat2) shown below shows the structure of these compounds.
  • the radicals R independently of one another each represent a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched hydrocarbon radical having a chain length of 8 to 30 carbon atoms.
  • the preferred compounds of the formula (Tkat2) contain for R the same hydrocarbon radical.
  • the chain length of the radicals R is preferably 12 to 21 carbon atoms.
  • A stands for an anion as previously described. Examples according to the invention are available, for example, under the INCII names Quaternium-27, Quaternium-72, Quaternium-83 and Quaternium-91. Quaternium 91 is highly preferred according to the invention.
  • compositions according to the invention furthermore comprise at least one amine and / or cationized amine, in particular an amidoamine and / or a cationized amidoamine having the following structural formulas:
  • R 1 is an acyl or alkyl radical having 6 to 30 C atoms, which may be branched or unbranched, saturated or unsaturated, and wherein the acyl radical and / or the alkyl radical may contain at least one OH group, and
  • R2, R3 and R4 are each independently
  • hydroxyalkyl group having one to 4 carbon atoms having at least one and at most three hydroxy groups, for example -CH 2 OH, -CH 2 CH 2 OH, -CHOHCHOH, -CH 2 CHOHCH 3 , -CH (CH 2 OH) 2 , -COH (CH 2 OH) 2 , -CH 2 CHOHCH 2 OH, -CH 2 CH 2 CH 2 OH and hydroxybutyl radicals, and A is an anion as previously described and
  • n is an integer between 1 and 10.
  • R1 is a branched or unbranched, saturated or unsaturated acyl radical having 6 to 30 carbon atoms, which may contain at least one OH group means.
  • amidoamines and / or quaternized amidoamines in which R 2, R 3 and / or R 4 in the formula (Tkat3) represent a radical according to the general formula CH 2 CH 2 OR 5, where R 5 is the meaning of alkyl radicals having 1 to 4 carbon atoms , Hydroxyethyl or hydrogen.
  • the preferred size of n in the general formula (Tkat8) is an integer between 2 and 5.
  • the alkylamidoamines can both be present as such and converted by protonation in a correspondingly acidic solution into a quaternary compound in the composition. According to the invention, the cationic alkylamidoamines are preferred.
  • Witcamine ® 100 Incromine ® BB, Mackine ® 401 and other Mackine ® grades, Adogen ® S18V, and as a permanent cationic aminoamines: Rewoquat ® RTM 50, Empigen ® CSC, Swanol ® Lanoquat DES-50, Rewoquat ® UTM 50, Schercoquat® ® BAS ® Lexquat AMG-BEO, or Incroquat ® behenyl HE.
  • Alkyltrimethylammonium chlorides having preferably 10 to 18 carbon atoms in the alkyl radical and / or dialkyldimethylammonium chlorides having preferably 10 to 18 carbon atoms in the alkyl radical and / or trialkylmethylammonium chlorides preferably having 10 to 18 carbon atoms in the alkyl radical and / or cetyltrimethylammonium chloride and / or stearyltrimethylammonium chloride and / or distearyldimethylammonium chloride and or lauryldimethylammonium chloride and / or lauryldimethylbenzylammonium chloride and / or tricetylmethylammonium chloride
  • the abovementioned cationic surfactants can be used individually or in any desired combinations with one another, with amounts of from 0.01 to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.01 to 7.5% by weight, and very particularly preferably from 0 to 0, 1 to 5.0% by weight. The very best results are obtained with amounts of from 0.1 to 3.0% by weight, based in each case on the total composition of the particular agent.
  • the agents according to the invention contain at least one proteolipid of the formula (I)
  • R ' is a straight-chain or branched, saturated or unsaturated
  • Hydrocarbon radical having 1 1 to 24 carbon atoms Hydrocarbon radical having 1 1 to 24 carbon atoms
  • the cationic Keratinhydrolysate be used within certain amounts in the inventive compositions.
  • Preferred hair treatment compositions according to the invention contain - based on their weight - from 0.01 to 0.5 wt .-%, preferably 0.02 to 0.5 wt .-%, particularly preferably 0.05 to 0.5 wt .-%, further preferably 0.1 to 0.5 wt .-% and in particular 0.1 to 0.35 wt .-% cationic Keratinhydrolysate.
  • the radical R " in formula (I) represents a peptide or a protein or a protein hydrolyzate, each based on keratin.
  • the molecular weight of the cationic keratin hydrolyzate contained in the agents according to the invention is from 500 to 10,000 Da, preferably from 750 to 5000 Da, more preferably from 750 to 2000 Da and in particular from 800 to 1500 Da.
  • radical R "of the cationic keratin hydrolysates used in the agents according to the invention contains no methionine It is further preferred if the radical R " of the cationic keratin hydrolysates used in the agents according to the invention contains large amounts of cysteine and / or cystine.
  • Croquat® WKP Croquat® WKP.
  • Another product according to the invention is available as a commercial product Promois® WK-HCAQ.
  • the most preferred product carries the INCI name Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Keratin.
  • Protein hydrolysates are product mixtures obtained by acid, alkaline or enzymatically catalyzed degradation of proteins (proteins). According to the invention, protein hydrolysates of both vegetable and animal origin can be used.
  • Animal protein hydrolysates are, for example, elastin, collagen, keratin, silk and milk protein hydrolysates, which may also be present in the form of salts.
  • Such products are, for example, under the trademarks Dehylan ® (Cognis), Promois® ® (Interorgana) Collapuron ® (Cognis), Nutrilan® ® (Cognis), Gelita-Sol ® (German Gelatinefabriken Stoess & Co), Lexein ® (Inolex) and kerasol tm ® (Croda) sold.
  • Preferred according to the invention is the use of protein hydrolysates of plant origin, eg. Soybean, almond, rice, pea, potato and wheat protein hydrolysates.
  • Such products are, for example, under the trademarks Gluadin ® (Cognis), diamine ® (Diamalt) ® (Inolex) and Crotein ® (Croda) available.
  • the radical R " is selected from keratin or keratin hydrolysates
  • Preferred hair treatment agents according to the invention are characterized in that they contain at least one cationic keratin hydrolyzate of the formula (I) in which R " for keratin or a keratin hydrolyzate is.
  • Particularly preferred groupings RX- are listed in the tables of the preamble DE 102009048299.7. This is expressly and fully incorporated by reference. The groups disclosed therein are bound in still further preferred embodiments of the present invention to keratin or keratin hydrolyzate as a group R " .
  • particularly preferred hair treatment compositions according to the invention are characterized in that they contain at least one cationic keratin hydrolyzate of the formula (I) in which X is -N + (CH 3 ) 2 -CH 2 -CH (OH) -CH 2 - and R 'is - (CH 2 ) 17 -CH 3 .
  • wt .-% Based on its weight - 0.01 to 10 wt .-%, preferably 0.05 to 7 wt .-%, particularly preferably 0 , 1 to 5 wt .-%, more preferably 0.25 to 2.5 wt .-% and in particular 0.5 to 2.0 wt .-% protein hydrolyzate (s), preferably keratin hydrolyzate (s) included.
  • compositions according to the invention can be further enhanced by using certain care substances.
  • care substances are preferably selected from certain groups of known care substances, since these care substances harmonize perfectly with the proteolipids employed in accordance with the formulation and the care effect.
  • Hair treatment compositions which are preferred according to the invention are characterized in that they additionally contain care substances (e), based on their weight, in amounts of from 0.001 to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.005 to 7.5% by weight, particularly preferably from 0.01 to 5 Wt .-% and in particular 0.05 to 2.5 wt .-%, with preferred care substance (s) are selected from the group i-L-carnitine and / or its salts;
  • the surfactant / cationic Keratinhydrolysat combination is combined with at least one care substance which is selected from L-carnitine and / or its salts, panthenol and / or pantothenic acid, 2-furanones and / or derivatives thereof, in particular pantolactone , Taurine and / or its salts, niacinamide, ubiquinones, ectoine, allantoin.
  • care substance which is selected from L-carnitine and / or its salts, panthenol and / or pantothenic acid, 2-furanones and / or derivatives thereof, in particular pantolactone , Taurine and / or its salts, niacinamide, ubiquinones, ectoine, allantoin.
  • L-carnitine can form addition compounds and double salts.
  • L-carnitine derivatives which are preferred according to the invention are selected in particular from acetyl-L-carnitine, L-carnitine fumarate, L-carnitine citrate, lauroyl-L-carnitine and particularly preferably L-carnitine tartrate.
  • the L-carnitine compounds mentioned are available, for example, from Lonza GmbH (Wuppertal, Germany).
  • Preferred hair treatment compositions according to the invention are characterized in that they contain, based on their weight, from 0.001 to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.005 to 7.5% by weight, particularly preferably from 0.01 to 5% by weight and in particular 0.05 contain up to 2.5 wt .-% L-carnitine or L-carnitine derivatives, preferred L-carnitine derivatives are selected from acetyl-L-carnitine, L-carnitine fumarate, L-carnitine citrate, lauroyl-L-carnitine and in particular L-carnitine tartrate.
  • Panthenol (IUPAC name: (+) - (R) -2,4-dihydroxy-N- (3-hydroxypropyl) -3,3-dimethylbutyramide) is converted to pantothenic acid in the body.
  • Pantothenic acid is a vitamin from the group of B vitamins (vitamin B5).
  • Preferred hair treatment compositions according to the invention are characterized in that they contain, based on their weight, from 0.01 to 5% by weight, preferably from 0.05 to 2.5% by weight, particularly preferably from 0.1 to 1.5% by weight. % and especially 0.25 to 1% by weight of panthenol (( ⁇ ) -2,4-dihydroxy- / V- (3-hydroxypropyl) -3,3-dimethyl-butyramide).
  • preferred hair treatment compositions contain - based on their weight - 0.01 to 15 wt .-%, preferably 0.025 to 12.5 wt .-%, particularly preferably 0.05 to 10 wt .-%, more preferably 0.1 to 7 , 5 wt .-% and in particular 0.5 to 5 wt .-% of at least one of the following furanone derivatives: (R) - (-) - 4-hydroxymethyl-Y-butyrolactone and / or DL-4-hydroxymethyl-y-butyrolactone and / or (S) - (+) - 4-hydroxymethyl- ⁇ -butyrolactone and / or R - (-) - 2-hydroxy-3,3-dimethyl- ⁇ -butyrolactone and / or D, L-2-hydroxy 3,3-dimethyl- ⁇ -butyrolactone and / or S (+) - 2-hydroxy-3,3-dimethyl- ⁇ -butyrolactone and / or 4-hydroxy-2
  • Another, more preferred care material that has activating properties is
  • compositions contain - based on their weight
  • Wt .-% more preferably 0.1 to 7.5 wt .-% and in particular 0.5 to 5 wt .-% taurine (2-
  • vitamin A includes retinol (vitamin A and 3,4-didehydroretinol (vitamin A 2 ) .beta.-carotene is the provitamin of retinol.
  • the vitamin A component is, for example, vitamin A acid and their esters, vitamin A-aldehyde and vitamin A-alcohol as well as its esters such as the palmitate and the acetate
  • the agents according to the invention contain the vitamin A component preferably in amounts of 0.05-1% by weight, based on the entire preparation.
  • the vitamin B group or the vitamin B complex include u. a.
  • Vitamin B 2 (riboflavin)
  • Vitamin B 3 the compounds nicotinic acid and nicotinamide (niacinamide) are often performed.
  • Preferred according to the invention is the nicotinic acid amide which is contained in the agents used according to the invention preferably in amounts of from 0.05 to 1% by weight, based on the total agent.
  • Vitamin B 5 pantothenic acid, panthenol and pantolactone. Panthenol and / or pantolactone are preferably used in the context of this group (see below).
  • Derivatives of panthenol which can be used according to the invention are, in particular, the esters and ethers of panthenol and also cationically derivatized panthenols. Individual representatives are, for example, the panthenol triacetate, the panthenol monoethyl ether and its monoacetate and also the cationic panthenol derivatives disclosed in WO 92/13829.
  • the said compounds of the vitamin B 5 type are preferably contained in the agents according to the invention in amounts of 0.05-10% by weight, based on the total agent. Amounts of 0.1-5 wt .-% are particularly preferred.
  • Vitamin B 6 pyridoxine and pyridoxamine and pyridoxal.
  • Vitamin C (ascorbic acid). Vitamin C is used in the agents according to the invention preferably in amounts of 0.1 to 3 wt .-%, based on the total agent. Use in the form of palmitic acid ester, glucosides or phosphates may be preferred. The use in combination with tocopherols may also be preferred.
  • Vitamin E tocopherols, especially ⁇ -tocopherol.
  • Tocopherol and its derivatives which include in particular the esters such as the acetate, the nicotinate, the phosphate and the succinate, are preferably present in the agents according to the invention in amounts of 0.05-1% by weight, based on the total agent.
  • Vitamin F is usually understood as meaning essential fatty acids, in particular linoleic acid, linolenic acid and arachidonic acid.
  • Vitamin H is the compound (3aS, 4S, 6aR) -2-oxohexahydrothienol [3,4-c] imidazole-4-valeric acid, for which, however, the common name biotin has meanwhile prevailed.
  • Biotin is preferably present in the compositions according to the invention in amounts of from 0.0001 to 1.0% by weight, in particular in amounts of from 0.001 to 0.01% by weight.
  • hair-treatment compositions according to the invention are preferred which, based on their weight, are 0.1 to 5% by weight, preferably 0.2 to 4% by weight, more preferably 0.25 to 3.5% by weight, more preferably Contain 0.5 to 3 wt .-% and in particular 0.5 to 2.5 wt .-% vitamins and / or pro-vitamins and / or vitamin precursors, preferably the groups A, B, C, E, F and H.
  • vitamin B 5 2,4-dihydroxy- / V- (3-hydroxypropyl) -3,3-dimethyl-butyramide, provitamin B 5 ) and / or pantothenic acid (vitamin B 3 , vitamin B 5 ) and / or Niacin, niacinamide or nicotinamide (vitamin B 3 ) and / or L-ascorbic acid (vitamin C) and / or thiamine (vitamin B 1 and / or riboflavin (vitamin B 2 , vitamin G) and / or biotin (vitamin B 7 , Vitamin H) and / or folic acid (vitamin B 9 , vitamin B c or vitamin M) and / or vitamin B 6 and / or vitamin B 2 .
  • compositions according to the invention can therefore contain from 0.0001 to 5% by weight of at least one biochinone of the formula (Ubi)
  • X, Y, Z are independently -O- or -NH- or NR- or a chemical bond
  • R, R 2 , R 3 independently represent a hydrogen atom or an optionally substituted aryl group or an optionally substituted (C 1 -C 4 ) alkyl group or a hydroxyalkyl group or a polyhydroxyalkyl group or an optionally substituted (C 6 -C 6 ) -alkylene group, or a (CrC ⁇ -Acyl radical, preferred radicals being selected independently of one another from -H, -CH 3 , -CH 2 CH 3 , -CH (CH 3) 2, - (CH 2) 3 CH 3, -CH (CH 3) CH 2 CH 3, -CH 2 CH (CH 3) 2, -C (CH 3) 3
  • R 4 is -CH 3 , -CH 2 CH 3 , - (CH 2 ) 2 CH 2 , -CH (CH 3 ) 2 , - (CH 2 ) 3 CH 3 ,
  • n stands for values from 1 to 20, preferably from 2 to 15 and in particular for 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10.
  • Particularly preferred hair treatment compositions according to the invention are characterized in that they contain as care substance - based on their weight - 0.0001 to 1 wt .-%, preferably 0.001 to 0.5 wt .-% and particularly preferably 0.005 to 0, 1 wt .-% containing at least one ubiquinone and / or at least one ubiquinol and / or at least one derivative of these substances, preferred agents containing a ubiquinone of the formula (Ubi)
  • n 6, 7, 8, 9 or 10, particularly preferably 10 (coenzyme Q10).
  • the agents according to the invention may also contain plastoquinones.
  • preferred agents according to the invention are characterized in that they are 0.0002 to 4 wt .-%, preferably 0.0005 to 3 wt .-%, particularly preferably 0.001 to 2 wt .-%, more preferably 0.0015 to 1 and in particular 0.002 to 0.5 wt .-% of at least one plastoquinone of the formula (Ubi-b)
  • n is from 1 to 20, preferably from 2 to 15 and in particular from 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10, with particularly preferred agents containing plastoquinone PQ-9.
  • the agents according to the invention may contain ectoin.
  • Hair treatment compositions which are preferred according to the invention are characterized in that they contain, based on their weight, from 0.001 to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.01 to 5% by weight, particularly preferably from 0.05 to 2.5% by weight and in particular from 0 , 1 to 1% by weight of (S) -2-methyl-1, 4,5,6-tetrahydro-4-pyrimidinecarboxylic acid (ectoine) and the physiologically tolerated salts of this compound and / or (S, S) -5- Hydroxy-2-methyl-1, 4,5,6-tetrahydro-4-pyrimidinecarboxylic acid (hydroxyectoine) and the physiologically acceptable salts of this compound.
  • particularly preferred hair treatment compositions contain, based on their weight, from 0.001 to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.01 to 5% by weight, particularly preferably from 0.05 to 2.5% by weight and in particular from 0.1 to 1 5% ureidohydantoin (allantoin).
  • compositions according to the invention may contain purine and / or purine derivatives as a care substance.
  • purine and / or purine derivatives with ubiquinones and / or plastoquinones as a care substance means that the hairs treated with appropriate agents show, inter alia, higher measured values in differential thermal analysis and improved wet and dry combabilities.
  • hair treatment compositions preferred according to the invention are characterized in that that it contains, as a care substance, based on its weight, from 0.001 to 2.5% by weight, preferably from 0.0025 to 1% by weight, particularly preferably from 0.005 to 0.5% by weight and in particular from 0.01 to 0, 1 wt .-% purine (s) and / or purine derivative (s), wherein the following compounds are preferred:
  • agents according to the invention are preferred in which the weight ratio of purine (derivative (s)) and biochinone (s) is 10: 1 to 1: 100, preferably 5: 1 to 1:50, particularly preferably 2: 1 to 1:20 and in particular 1: 1 to 1:10.
  • caffeine is a particularly preferred purine derivative
  • coenzyme Q10 is a particularly preferred biochinone.
  • Particularly preferred agents according to the invention are therefore characterized in that they contain, based on their weight, from 0.001 to 2.5% by weight, preferably from 0.0025 to 1% by weight, particularly preferably from 0.005 to 0.5% by weight and in particular 0.01 to 0.1 wt .-% caffeine and 0.0002 to 4 wt .-%, preferably 0.0005 to 3 wt .-%, particularly preferably 0.001 to 2 wt .-%, more preferably 0.0015 to 1 and in particular 0.002 to 0.5 wt .-% coenzyme Q10 included.
  • compositions of the invention may also contain flavonoids.
  • flavonoids There are well over 6500 different flavonoids known, which can be divided into flavonols, flavones, flavanones, isoflavonoids and anthocyanins.
  • flavonoids from all six groups can be used, with certain representatives from the individual groups are preferred as a care substance because of their particularly intense action.
  • Preferred flavonols are quercetin, rutin, kaempferol, myricetin, isorhamnetin, preferred flavanols are catechin, gallocatechin, epicatechin, epigallocatechin gallate, theaflavin, thearubigin, preferred flavones are luteolin, apigenin, morin, preferred flavanones are hesperetin, naringenin, eriodictyol, preferred isoflavonoids are genistein , Daidzein, and preferred anthocyanidins (anthocyanins) are cyanidin, delphinidin, malvidin, pelargonidin, peonidin, petunidin.
  • particularly preferred hair treatment compositions are characterized in that they - based on their weight - 0.001 to 2.5 wt .-%, preferably 0.0025 to 1 wt .-%, particularly preferably 0.005 to 0.5 wt .-% and in particular 0.01 to 0.1% by weight of flavonoids, in particular flavonols, more preferably 3,3 ', 4', 5,7-pentahydroxyflavone (quercetin) and / or 3,3 ', 4', 5,7-pentahydroxyflavone -3-0-rutinoside (rutin), included.
  • flavonoids in particular flavonols, more preferably 3,3 ', 4', 5,7-pentahydroxyflavone (quercetin) and / or 3,3 ', 4', 5,7-pentahydroxyflavone -3-0-rutinoside (rutin), included.
  • hair treatment compositions according to the invention which additionally contain 0.001 to 5 wt .-%, preferably 0.01 to 4 wt .-%, particularly preferably 0.02 to 2.5 wt .-% and in particular 0.1 to 1, 5 wt % Bisabolol and / or oxides of bisabolol, preferably (-) - alpha-bisabolol.
  • Creatine is also suitable as a care substance according to the invention.
  • Particularly preferred hair treatment compositions according to the invention contain - based on their weight - from 0.01 to 15 Wt .-%, preferably 0.025 to 12.5 wt .-%, particularly preferably 0.05 to 10 wt .-%, more preferably 0.1 to 7.5 wt .-% and in particular 0.5 to 5 wt. -% / V-methyl-guanidino-acetic acid (creatine).
  • compositions according to the invention may contain, in addition to the ingredients mentioned above and optional further ingredients, other substances which prevent, alleviate or cure hair loss.
  • other substances which prevent, alleviate or cure hair loss.
  • a content of hair root stabilizing agents is advantageous.
  • Propecia (finasteride) is currently the only product approved worldwide that has been proven efficacy and tolerability in numerous studies. Propecia causes less DHT to be produced from testosterone.
  • Minoxidil is probably the oldest proven hair restorer with or without supplemental additives. There are hair lotions containing 2% -5% minoxidil, as well as gels with up to 15% minoxidil.
  • spironolactone in the form of hair tonic and in combination with minoxidil can be used for external application.
  • Spironolactones act as androgen receptor blockers, i. the binding of DHT to the hair follicles is prevented.
  • hair treatment compositions according to the invention are preferred which additionally contain, based on their weight, from 0.001 to 5% by weight of hair root stabilizing substances, in particular minoxidil and / or finasteride and / or ketoconazole.
  • Additional antidandruff active ingredients for example climbazole, piroctone olamine or zinc pyrithione
  • climbazole, piroctone olamine or zinc pyrithione are used to purposefully reduce the amount of dandruff causing the dandruff, to restore the normal bacterial count to the normal percentage and to reduce the scaling to the physiological level.
  • laboratory tests have shown that the different species representatives of Pityrosporum ovale react differently to the antidandruff active ingredients. In order to maximally combat all dandruff is therefore a combination of anti-dandruff active ingredients most successful.
  • hair treatment compositions according to the invention are preferred which additionally contain, based on their weight, from 0.001 to 5% by weight of antidandruff active ingredients, in particular piroctone olamine (1-hydroxy-4-methyl-6- (2,4,4-tri-methylpentyl) -pyridine-2 ( 1 H) -one, compound with 2-aminoethanol, 1: 1) and / or zinc pyrithione and / or selenium sulfide and / or climbazole and / or salicylic acid or fumaric acid.
  • antidandruff active ingredients in particular piroctone olamine (1-hydroxy-4-methyl-6- (2,4,4-tri-methylpentyl) -pyridine-2 ( 1 H) -one, compound with 2-aminoethanol, 1: 1) and / or zinc pyrithione and / or selenium sulfide and / or climbazole and / or salicylic acid or fumaric acid.
  • the agents according to the invention may contain further care substances. Their presence is not absolutely necessary for achieving the effects according to the invention, but further effects, such as a pleasant touch or a pleasant application feel, can result from the use of these care substances.
  • the agents according to the invention may with particular preference contain one or more amino acids.
  • Amino acids that can be used particularly preferably according to the invention are from the group of glycine, alanine, valine, leucine, isoleucine, phenylalanine, Tyrosine, tryptophan, proline, aspartic acid, glutamic acid, asparagine, glutamine, serine, threonine, cysteine, methionine, lysine, arginine, histidine, ⁇ -alanine, 4-aminobutyric acid (GABA), betaine, L-cystine (L-cyss), L-carnitine, L-citrulline, L-theanine, 3 ', 4'-dihydroxy-L-phenylalanine (L-dopa), 5'-hydroxy-L-tryptophan, L-homocysteine, S-methyl-L-methionine, S-allyl-L-L-
  • Preferred agents according to the invention contain one or more amino acids in narrower quantitative ranges.
  • preferred hair treatment compositions according to the invention are characterized in that they contain as care substance - based on their weight - 0.01 to 5 wt .-%, preferably 0.02 to 2.5 wt .-%, particularly preferably 0.05 to 1, 5 Wt .-%, more preferably 0.075 to 1 wt .-% and in particular 0.1 to 0.25 wt .-% amino acid (s), preferably from the group of glycine and / or alanine and / or valine and / or lysine and / or leucine and / or threonine.
  • the agents according to the invention may contain at least one carbohydrate from the group of monosaccharides, disaccharides and / or oligosaccharides.
  • preferred hair treatment compositions according to the invention are characterized in that they contain as care substance - based on their weight - 0.01 to 5 wt .-%, preferably 0.05 to 4.5 wt .-%, particularly preferably 0.1 to 4 wt. -%, more preferably 0.5 to 3.5 wt .-% and in particular 0.75 to 2.5 wt .-% carbohydrate (s) selected from monosaccharides, disaccharides and / or oligosaccharides containing preferred carbohydrates are selected out
  • Monosaccharides in particular D-ribose and / or D-xylose and / or L-arabinose and / or D-glucose and / or D-mannose and / or D-galactose and / or D-fructose and / or sorbose and / or L.
  • -Fucose and / or L-rhamnose disaccharides in particular sucrose and / or maltose and / or lactose and / or trehalose and / or cellobiose and / or gentiobiose and / or isomaltose.
  • a particularly preferred group of ingredients are the silicones.
  • Silicone preferably a silicone, which is selected from:
  • polyalkyl siloxanes polyaryl siloxanes, polyalkylaryl siloxanes which are volatile or nonvolatile, straight chain, branched or cyclic, crosslinked or uncrosslinked;
  • grafted silicone polymers having a non-silicone organic backbone consisting of an organic backbone formed from organic monomers containing no silicone grafted with at least one polysiloxane macromer in the chain and optionally at least one chain end;
  • compositions according to the invention comprise the silicone (s) preferably in amounts of from 0.1 to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.25 to 7% by weight and in particular from 0.5 to 5% by weight. , in each case based on the total mean.
  • x is a number from 0 to 100, preferably from 0 to 50, more preferably from 0 to 20 and in particular 0 to 10.
  • Preferred silicones which can be used according to the invention have viscosities of 0.2 to 2 mm 2 s -1 at 20 ° C., silicones having viscosities of 0.5 to 1 mm 2 s -1 being particularly preferred.
  • agents according to the invention contain one or more amino-functionality
  • Silicones Such silicones may e.g. through the formula
  • R in the above formula is a hydrocarbon or a hydrocarbon radical having 1 to about 6 carbon atoms
  • Q is a polar radical of the general formula -R HZ, wherein R is a divalent linking group attached to hydrogen and the radical Z. is bonded, composed of carbon and hydrogen atoms, carbon, hydrogen and oxygen atoms or carbon, hydrogen and nitrogen atoms
  • Z is an organic, amino-functional group containing at least one amino-functional group
  • "a” assumes values in the range of about 0 to about 2
  • "b” assumes values in the range of about 1 to about 3
  • "a” + "b” is less than or equal to 3
  • "c” is a number in the range from about 1 to about 3
  • x is a number ranging from 1 to about 2,000, preferably from about 3 to about 50, and most preferably from about 3 to about 25
  • y is a number ranging from about 20 to about 10,000 , preferably from about 125 to about 10,000, and most preferably from about 150 to about
  • Non-limiting examples of the groups represented by R include alkyl groups such as methyl, ethyl, propyl, isopropyl, isopropyl, butyl, isobutyl, amyl, isoamyl, hexyl, isohexyl and the like; Alkenyl radicals such as vinyl, halovinyl, alkylvinyl, allyl, haloallyl, alkylallyl; Cycloalkyl radicals such as cyclobutyl, cyclopentyl, cyclohexyl and the like; Phenyl radicals, benzyl radicals, halohydrocarbon radicals such as 3-chloropropyl, 4-bromobutyl, 3,3,3-trifluoropropyl, chlorocyclohexyl, bromophenyl, chlorophenyl and the like, and sulfur containing radicals such as mercaptoethyl, mercaptopropyl,
  • R examples include methylene, ethylene, propylene, hexamethylene, decamethylene, -CH 2 CH (CI-13) Cl-12, phenylene, naphthylene, -CH 2 CH 2 SCH 2 CH 2 -, -CH 2 CH 2 OCH 2 -, -OCH 2 CH 2 -, -OCH 2 CH 2 CH 2 -, -CH 2 CH (CH 3 ) C (O) 2 -, - (CH 2 ) 3 CC (O) OCH 2 CH 2 -, -C 6 H 4 C 6 H 4 -, -C 6 H 4 CH 2 C 6 H 4 -; and - (CH 2) 3 C (O) SCH 2 CH 2 -.
  • Z is an organic, amino-functional radical containing at least one functional amino group.
  • a possible formula for Z is NH (CH 2 ) Z NH 2 , wherein z is 1 or more.
  • Another possible formula for Z is -NH (CH 2 ) Z (CH 2 ) zzNH, where both z and zz are independently 1 or more, this structure comprising diamino ring structures, such as piperazinyl.
  • Z is most preferably a -NHCH 2 CH 2 NH 2 radical.
  • Z is -N (CH 2 ) z (CH 2 ) zzNX 2 or -NX 2 , wherein each X of X 2 is independently selected from the group consisting of hydrogen and alkyl groups of 1 to 12 carbon atoms, and zz is 0 ,
  • Q is most preferably a polar, amine functional group of the formula -CH 2 CH 2 CH 2 NHCH 2 CH 2 NH 2 .
  • "a” assumes values in the range of about 0 to about 2
  • "b” assumes values in the range of about 2 to about 3
  • "a” + “b” is less than or equal to 3
  • the molar ratio of the R a Q b SiO (4 a a b) / 2 units to the R c SiO (4 c ) / 2 units is in the range from about 1: 2 to 1:65, preferably from about 1: 5 to about 1:65, and most preferably from about 1:15 to about 1:20.
  • Particularly preferred agents according to the invention are characterized in that they contain at least one amino-functional silicone of the formula (Si-IIa)
  • n and n are numbers whose sum (m + n) is between 1 and 2000, preferably between 50 and 150, where n preferably values of 0 to 1999 and in particular of 49 to 149 and m preferably values of 1 to 2000 , in particular from 1 to 10 assumes.
  • compositions according to the invention which are an amino-functional silicone of the formula (Si-IIb)
  • n1 and n2 are numbers whose sum (m + n1 + n2) is between 1 and 2,000, preferably between 50 and 150 , where the sum (n1 + n2) preferably assumes values from 0 to 1999 and in particular from 49 to 149 and m preferably values from 1 to 2000, in particular from 1 to 10.
  • silicones are referred to as amodimethicones according to the INCI declaration.
  • Agents preferred according to the invention are characterized in that, based on their weight, they contain 0.01 to 10% by weight, preferably 0.1 to 8% by weight, particularly preferably 0.25 to 7.5% by weight and in particular 0, 5 to 5 wt.% Amino-functional silicone (s) included.
  • agents according to the invention which contain at least one silicone of the formula Si-III
  • x is a number from 3 to 200, preferably from 3 to 10, more preferably from 30 to 7 and in particular 3, 4, 5 or 6.
  • R 3 is -Si- [O-SiR 2 ] x- (CH 2 ) n- [O-SiR 2 ] y -O-SiR 3 (Si-IV),
  • R is identical or different radicals from the group -H, -phenyl, -benzyl, -CH 2 -CH (CH 3 ) Ph, the C 1-20 alkyl, preferably -CH 3 , -CH 2 CH 3 , -CH 2 CH 2 CH 3 , -CH (CH 3 ) 2 , -CH 2 CH 2 CH 2 H 3 , -CH 2 CH (CH 3 ) 2 , -CH (CH 3 ) CH 2 CH 3 , -C (CH 3 ) 3 , x and y is a number from 0 to 200, preferably from 0 to 10, more preferably from 0 to 7 and especially 0, 1, 2, 3, 4, 5 or 6, and n is a number from 0 to 10, preferably from 1 to 8 and especially for 2.3 , 4, 5, 6 stands.
  • the silicones are preferably water-soluble. Agents preferred according to the invention are characterized in that they contain at least one water-soluble silicone.
  • an agent according to the invention may also contain UV filters (I).
  • the UV filters to be used according to the invention are not subject to any general restrictions with regard to their structure and their physical properties. On the contrary, all UV filters which can be used in the cosmetics sector and whose absorption maximum lies in the UVA (315-400 nm), in the UVB (280-315 nm) or in the UVC ( ⁇ 280 nm) range are suitable. UV filters with an absorption maximum in the UVB range, in particular in the range from about 280 to about 300 nm, are particularly preferred.
  • the UV filters used according to the invention can be selected, for example, from substituted benzophenones, p-aminobenzoic acid esters, diphenylacrylic acid esters, cinnamic acid esters, salicylic acid esters, benzimidazoles and o-aminobenzoic acid esters.
  • the water-insoluble compound in the teaching according to the invention has the higher effect on those water-soluble compounds which differ from it by one or more additional ionic groups.
  • water-insoluble are to be understood as meaning those UV filters which dissolve in water at 20 ° C. to not more than 1% by weight, in particular not more than 0.1% by weight.
  • these compounds should be soluble in the usual cosmetic oil components at room temperature to at least 0.1, in particular at least 1 wt .-%).
  • the use of water-insoluble UV filters may therefore be preferred according to the invention.
  • UV filters which have a cationic group, in particular a quaternary ammonium group.
  • Two preferred UV filters with cationic groups are those available as commercial products
  • Cinnamic acid compounds trimethylammonium chloride (lncroquat ® UV-283) and dodecyl tosylate (Escalol ® HP 610).
  • the teaching of the invention also includes the use of a combination of several UV filters.
  • the combination of at least one water-insoluble UV filter with at least one UV filter with a cationic group is preferred.
  • the UV filters are usually contained in the compositions according to the invention in amounts of from 0.1 to 5% by weight, based on the total agent. Levels of 0.4-2.5 wt .-% are preferred. In addition, it may prove advantageous if the compositions according to the invention contain penetration aids and / or swelling agents (M).
  • urea and urea derivatives include, for example, urea and urea derivatives, guanidine and its derivatives, arginine and its derivatives, water glass, imidazole and its derivatives, histidine and its derivatives, benzyl alcohol, glycerol, glycol and glycol ethers, propylene glycol and propylene glycol ethers, for example propylene glycol monoethyl ether, carbonates, bicarbonates, Diols and triols, and in particular 1, 2-diols and 1, 3-diols such as 1, 2-propanediol, 1, 2-pentanediol, 1, 2-hexanediol, 1, 2-dodecanediol, 1, 3-propanediol, 1 , 6-hexanediol, 1, 5-pentanediol, 1, 4-butanediol.
  • Another object of the present invention is a method for the treatment of keratinic fibers, in particular human hair, in which a hair treatment agent according to the invention applied to keratinic fibers and left there either until the next hair wash or rinsed after a contact time of 30 to 300 seconds.
  • a hair treatment agent according to the invention applied to keratinic fibers and left there either until the next hair wash or rinsed after a contact time of 30 to 300 seconds.
  • Proteolipid H (keratin) -O-C (O) - (CH 2 ) 16-CH 3
  • Proteolipid I (keratin) - N + (CH 3 ) 2 - (CH 2 ) i 6 -CH 3
  • Cetiol ® HE Coconut monoglyceride with approx. 7.3 EO units (INCI name: PEG-7 Glyceryl Cocoate) (Cognis)
  • Methyltriethanolammoniummethylsulfat-dialkylester- mixture (INCI name: Distearoylethyl Hydroxyethylmonium Methosulfate, Cetearyl Alcohol) (Henkel)
  • Gluadin ® W20 wheat protein hydrolyzate (at least 20% solids, INCI name:
  • Gafquaf 755 dimethylaminoethylmethacrylate-vinylpyrrolidone copolymer
  • Salicylic acid 0.2 0.2 0.2 0.2 0.2 0.2 0.2 0.2 0.2 0.2 0.2 0.2 0.2
  • Macadamia nut oil refined 0,2 0,2 0,2 0,2 0,2 0,2 0,2
  • Dehyquart F 75 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5
  • Gafquat 755N 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5
  • Salcare SC 96 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5

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Abstract

L'invention concerne des agents de traitement capillaire contenant un ou plusieurs tensioactifs déterminés et un ou plusieurs hydrolysats de kératine cationiques déterminés, et l'utilisation de tels agents pour réduire la trichoptilose.
PCT/EP2011/069932 2010-12-21 2011-11-11 Agents de traitement capillaire contenant un ou plusieurs tensioactifs et un ou plusieurs hydrolysats de kératine cationiques WO2012084336A2 (fr)

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DE102010063788.2 2010-12-21
DE201010063788 DE102010063788A1 (de) 2010-12-21 2010-12-21 Haarbehandlungsmittel mit Tensid(en)und kationischen Keratinhydrolysat(en)

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WO2012084336A2 true WO2012084336A2 (fr) 2012-06-28
WO2012084336A3 WO2012084336A3 (fr) 2013-08-29

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Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
EP2724707A3 (fr) * 2012-10-25 2014-08-06 Henkel AG & Co. KGaA Produit de soin capillaire comprenant des principes actifs anti-pelliculaires et un hydrolysat de kératine cationique
WO2015048945A1 (fr) * 2013-10-01 2015-04-09 Henkel Ag & Co. Kgaa Agents de traitement capillaire à performances améliorées
US20160083333A1 (en) * 2014-09-22 2016-03-24 Evonik Degussa Gmbh Formulation comprising ester quats based on isopropanolamine and tetrahydroxypropyl ethylenediamine
EP2724711A3 (fr) * 2012-10-25 2016-06-15 Henkel AG & Co. KGaA Produit de soin capillaire comprenant des acides aminés sélectionnés et/ou des oligopeptides sélectionnés et un hydrolysat de kératine cationique sélectionné
EP2724749A3 (fr) * 2012-10-25 2016-07-20 Henkel AG & Co. KGaA Produit de soin capillaire comprenant des silicones aminofonctionnels sélectionnés et un hydrolysat de kératine cationique sélectionné
GB2547061A (en) * 2015-09-01 2017-08-09 Henkel Ag & Co Kgaa High-Performance hair treatment agents with a Proteolipid and a magnesium salt

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DE3725030A1 (de) 1987-07-29 1989-02-09 Henkel Kgaa Oberflaechenaktive hydroxysulfonate
WO1992013829A1 (fr) 1991-02-06 1992-08-20 Smith Ronald J Composes quaternaires de panthenol et utilisation desdits composes
DE102009048299A1 (de) 2009-10-05 2011-06-16 Henkel Ag & Co. Kgaa Haarbehandlungsmittel mit Tensid(en) und Proteolipid(en)

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JP3774166B2 (ja) * 2002-04-12 2006-05-10 株式会社マンダム 毛髪処理剤及び毛髪処理方法
DE10307116A1 (de) * 2003-02-19 2004-09-02 Hans Schwarzkopf & Henkel Gmbh & Co. Kg Haarbehandlungsmittel mit neuartiger Wirkstoffkombination

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DE3725030A1 (de) 1987-07-29 1989-02-09 Henkel Kgaa Oberflaechenaktive hydroxysulfonate
WO1992013829A1 (fr) 1991-02-06 1992-08-20 Smith Ronald J Composes quaternaires de panthenol et utilisation desdits composes
DE102009048299A1 (de) 2009-10-05 2011-06-16 Henkel Ag & Co. Kgaa Haarbehandlungsmittel mit Tensid(en) und Proteolipid(en)

Cited By (8)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
EP2724707A3 (fr) * 2012-10-25 2014-08-06 Henkel AG & Co. KGaA Produit de soin capillaire comprenant des principes actifs anti-pelliculaires et un hydrolysat de kératine cationique
EP2724711A3 (fr) * 2012-10-25 2016-06-15 Henkel AG & Co. KGaA Produit de soin capillaire comprenant des acides aminés sélectionnés et/ou des oligopeptides sélectionnés et un hydrolysat de kératine cationique sélectionné
EP2724749A3 (fr) * 2012-10-25 2016-07-20 Henkel AG & Co. KGaA Produit de soin capillaire comprenant des silicones aminofonctionnels sélectionnés et un hydrolysat de kératine cationique sélectionné
WO2015048945A1 (fr) * 2013-10-01 2015-04-09 Henkel Ag & Co. Kgaa Agents de traitement capillaire à performances améliorées
US20160083333A1 (en) * 2014-09-22 2016-03-24 Evonik Degussa Gmbh Formulation comprising ester quats based on isopropanolamine and tetrahydroxypropyl ethylenediamine
CN105434183A (zh) * 2014-09-22 2016-03-30 赢创德固赛有限公司 包含基于异丙醇胺和四羟基丙基乙二胺的酯基季铵化合物的配制物
GB2547061A (en) * 2015-09-01 2017-08-09 Henkel Ag & Co Kgaa High-Performance hair treatment agents with a Proteolipid and a magnesium salt
GB2547061B (en) * 2015-09-01 2018-01-10 Henkel Ag & Co Kgaa High-Performance hair treatment agents with a Proteolipid and a magnesium salt

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WO2012084336A3 (fr) 2013-08-29

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