WO2012038114A2 - Conservation de la couleur à l'aide d'agents de conditionnement contenant des agents de réduction - Google Patents

Conservation de la couleur à l'aide d'agents de conditionnement contenant des agents de réduction Download PDF

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Publication number
WO2012038114A2
WO2012038114A2 PCT/EP2011/062034 EP2011062034W WO2012038114A2 WO 2012038114 A2 WO2012038114 A2 WO 2012038114A2 EP 2011062034 W EP2011062034 W EP 2011062034W WO 2012038114 A2 WO2012038114 A2 WO 2012038114A2
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WIPO (PCT)
Prior art keywords
preparation
acid
amino
hair
conditioning
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PCT/EP2011/062034
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German (de)
English (en)
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WO2012038114A3 (fr
Inventor
Konstantin Goutsis
Frank Janssen
Erik Schulze Zur Wiesche
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Henkel Ag & Co. Kgaa
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Publication of WO2012038114A2 publication Critical patent/WO2012038114A2/fr
Publication of WO2012038114A3 publication Critical patent/WO2012038114A3/fr

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    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61QSPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q5/00Preparations for care of the hair
    • A61Q5/004Preparations used to protect coloured hair
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/46Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing sulfur
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61QSPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q5/00Preparations for care of the hair
    • A61Q5/002Preparations for repairing the hair, e.g. hair cure
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61QSPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q5/00Preparations for care of the hair
    • A61Q5/10Preparations for permanently dyeing the hair
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61QSPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q5/00Preparations for care of the hair
    • A61Q5/12Preparations containing hair conditioners
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K2800/00Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
    • A61K2800/80Process related aspects concerning the preparation of the cosmetic composition or the storage or application thereof
    • A61K2800/88Two- or multipart kits

Definitions

  • the present application relates to multi-component packaging units for gentle color change of human hair. Furthermore, multi-stage processes for the application of these multi-component packaging units in the color change of human hair are described.
  • the dyeing of hair has always been the desire of many consumers, as this is on the one hand by covering of graying hair a rejuvenated appearance and on the other hand by fashionable coloring an individual type change is possible. By brightening a much desired bleaching of the hair can be achieved.
  • oxidation colorants For permanent, intensive colorations with corresponding fastness properties, so-called oxidation colorants are used. Such colorants contain oxidation dye precursors, subdivided into so-called developer components and coupler components which form the actual dyes with one another under the influence of oxidizing agents. The oxidation dyes are usually characterized by long-lasting dyeing results.
  • dyeing or tinting agents which contain so-called substantive dyes as a coloring component. These are dye molecules that attach directly to the substrate and do not require an oxidative process to form the paint. These two dyeing systems can also be combined to achieve specific nuances.
  • the oxidizing agents contained in Blondierstoffn are able to lighten the hair fiber by the oxidative destruction of the hair dye melanin.
  • the use of hydrogen peroxide - optionally with the use of ammonia or other alkalizing agents - as the oxidant alone, is sufficient to achieve a stronger Bleaching effect is usually a mixture of hydrogen peroxide and peroxodisulfate salts and / or Peroxomonosulfatsalzen used.
  • dyeing systems with dye precursors are, however, in need of improvement in terms of their fastness properties, in particular to weather influences, hair washes or other influences, such as sweat or swimming pool water.
  • hair washes or other influences such as sweat or swimming pool water.
  • a constant, but noticeable decrease in staining by multiple, repeated hair washes after the staining treatment is undesirable because the result obtained initially by the staining changed over time.
  • Oxidative color changes are almost inevitably accompanied by damage to the hair, since the remaining structural constituents of the hair are oxidatively damaged. This damage effect is further enhanced by the mostly alkaline reaction medium. Depending on the severity of the degree of damage, this ranges from rough, brittle and difficult to comb hair over a reduced resistance and tear resistance of the hair to hair breakage. Usually this damage is counteracted by the use of aftertreatment agents, in particular conditioning agents. However, such conditioning usually does not completely restore hair to the pretreatment state. Accordingly, there continues to be a need for effective post-treatment agents.
  • a first subject of the present invention is therefore a multi-component packaging unit (kit of parts) for dyeing human hair, which comprises a plurality of separately prepared components, and which is characterized in that a) a container (A) a color change preparation (I) containing at least one color-modifying component in a cosmetically acceptable carrier medium, and b) a container (B) contains a conditioning preparation (II) containing in a cosmetically acceptable carrier medium at least 0.5 wt .-%, based on the total weight of the preparation (II), of a reducing agent.
  • kit of parts for dyeing human hair, which comprises a plurality of separately prepared components, and which is characterized in that a) a container (A) a color change preparation (I) containing at least one color-modifying component in a cosmetically acceptable carrier medium, and b) a container (B) contains a conditioning preparation (II) containing in a cosmetically acceptable carrier medium at least 0.5 wt .-%, based on the total weight of
  • the multi-component packaging unit can be essentially applied to human hair.
  • compositions according to the invention are primarily suitable for the color change of keratin-containing fibers, there is in principle no obstacle to their use also on keratinic fibers in general or other fields, such as the color change of other fiber materials.
  • keratin-containing or keratinic fibers are understood to mean furs, wool, feathers, but in particular human hair.
  • a multi-component packaging unit comprises a plurality of individual components, which are packaged separately from each other, as well as a common packaging for these components, such as a folding box.
  • the components are each provided separately in different containers.
  • container is understood to be a casing which is present in the form of an optionally reclosable bottle, a tube, a can, a sachet, a sachet or a similar wrapping.
  • the wrapping material according to the invention are no limits. However, these are preferably casings made of glass or plastic.
  • packaging unit can include application aids, such as combs, brushes or brushes, personal protective clothing, in particular disposable gloves, as well as instructions for use.
  • application aids such as combs, brushes or brushes, personal protective clothing, in particular disposable gloves, as well as instructions for use.
  • a cosmetically acceptable carrier medium is a liquid or solid preparation which is suitable for stabilizing the active ingredients under storage conditions.
  • the cosmetic carrier is preferably aqueous, alcoholic or aqueous-alcoholic.
  • such carriers are for example creams, emulsions, gels or surfactant-containing foaming solutions, such as shampoos, foam aerosols or other preparations which are suitable for use on the hair.
  • An aqueous carrier according to the invention contains at least 30 wt .-%, in particular at least 50 wt .-% water, based on the total weight of the component.
  • alcoholic carriers are to be understood as meaning compositions comprising at least 50% by weight of a C 4 -alcohol, based on the total weight of the component, in particular ethanol or isopropanol.
  • aqueous-alcoholic carriers are water-containing compositions containing 3 to 70% by weight of a C 1 -C 4 -alcohol, based on the total weight of the component, in particular Ethanol or isopropanol, to understand.
  • the components according to the invention may additionally contain other organic solvents, for example 4-methoxybutanol, ethyldiglycol, 1, 2-propylene glycol, n-propanol, n-butanol, n-butylene glycol, glycerol, diethylene glycol monoethyl ether, and diethylene glycol mono-n-butyl ether. Preference is given to all water-soluble organic solvents.
  • the color change preparation (I) of the kit according to the invention contains as essential ingredient at least at least one oxidation dye precursor and / or at least one direct dye and / or at least one natural dye precursor and / or at least one bleach activator.
  • the color change preparations (I) according to the invention comprise at least one oxidation dye precursor.
  • p-phenylenediamine derivative or one of its physiologically acceptable salts.
  • Particularly preferred p-phenylenediamines are selected from p-phenylenediamine (1, 4-diaminobenzene), p-toluenediamine (1, 4-diamino-2-methylbenzene), 2-chloro-p-phenylenediamine , N, N-bis- (2-hydroxyethyl) -p-phenylenediamine, N-phenyl-p-phenylenediamine, 2- (2-hydroxyethyl) -p-phenylenediamine and N- (4-amino-3-methylphenyl) N- [3- (1H-imidazol-1-yl) propyl] amine and its physiologically acceptable salts.
  • developer component compounds which contain at least two aromatic nuclei which are substituted by amino and / or hydroxyl groups.
  • Preferred binuclear developer components are in particular ⁇ , ⁇ '-bis (2-hydroxyethyl) -N, N'-bis (4'-aminophenyl) -1, 3-diamino-propan-2-ol and bis (2-hydroxy -5- aminophenyl) -methane and their physiologically acceptable salts.
  • p-amino phenol derivative or one of its physiologically tolerable salts.
  • Preferred p-aminophenols are in particular p-aminophenol (4-aminophenol), N-methyl-p-aminophenol, and 4-amino-3-methylphenol and their physiologically tolerated salts.
  • the developer component may be selected from o-aminophenol and its derivatives such as 2-amino-5-methylphenol and its physiologically acceptable salts.
  • the developer component may be selected from heterocyclic developer components, such as the pyridine, pyrimidine, pyrazole, pyrazolo-pyrimidine derivatives and their physiologically acceptable salts.
  • Preferred pyrimidine derivatives are in particular 2,4,5,6-tetraaminopyrimidine and 4-hydroxy-2,5,6-triaminopyrimidine and their physiologically acceptable salts.
  • a preferred pyrazole derivative is 4,5-diamino-1- (2-hydroxyethyl) pyrazole and its physiologically acceptable salts.
  • coupler components m-phenylenediamine derivatives, naphthols, resorcinol and resorcinol derivatives, pyrazolones and m-aminophenol derivatives are generally used.
  • Suitable coupler substances are, in particular, 1-naphthol, 1, 5- and 2,7-dihydroxynaphthalene, 1-acetoxy-2-methoxynaphthalene, resorcinol, 4-chloro-resorcinol and 2-amino-3-hydroxypyridine and their physiologically tolerated salts ,
  • (F) pyridine derivatives such as, for example, 3-amino-2-methylamino-6-methoxypyridine, 2,6-diaminopyridine, 2,6-dihydroxy-3,4-dimethylpyridine, 2-amino-3-hydroxypyridine and 3,5- Diamino-2,6-dimethoxypyridine,
  • naphthalene derivatives such as 1-naphthol, 2-methyl-1-naphthol, 1, 5 and 2,7-dihydroxynaphthalene,
  • coupler components according to the invention are 1-naphthol, 1, 5- and 2,7-dihydroxynaphthalene, 5-amino-2-methylphenol, 2-amino-3-hydroxypyridine, resorcinol, 4-chlororesorcinol, 2-methylresorcinol and 2, 6-Dihydroxy-3,4-dimethylpyridine and their physiologically acceptable salts.
  • the color change preparation (I) optionally contains both the developer components and the coupler components preferably in an amount of 0.005 to 20 wt .-%, preferably 0.1 to 5 wt .-%, each based on their total weight.
  • developer components and coupler components are generally used in approximately molar amounts to each other.
  • a certain excess of individual oxidation dye precursors is not disadvantageous, so that developer components and coupler components in a molar ratio of 1: 0.5 to 1: 3, in particular 1: 1 to 1: 2 , may be included.
  • the color change preparations (I) according to the invention comprise at least one precursor of a naturally-analogous dye.
  • precursors of naturally-analogous dyes such indoles and indolines are preferably used which have at least one hydroxy or amino group, preferably as a substituent on the six-membered ring.
  • Particularly preferred derivatives of indoline are 5,6-dihydroxyindoline, 2,3-dioxoindoline (isatin) and their physiologically acceptable salts.
  • a particularly preferred derivative of indole is 5,6-dihydroxyindole and its physiologically acceptable salts.
  • the color change preparations (I) according to the invention optionally contain the indole or indoline derivatives preferably in an amount of 0.05 to 10 wt .-%, preferably 0.2 to 5 wt .-%, each based on their total weight.
  • the color change preparations (I) according to the invention comprise at least one substantive dye.
  • Direct dyes can be subdivided into anionic, cationic and nonionic substantive dyes.
  • the substantive dyes are preferably selected from nitrophenylenediamines, nitroaminophenols, azo dyes, anthraquinones, indophenols and their physiologically acceptable salts.
  • Particularly suitable anionic direct dyes are 2,4-dinitro-1-naphthol-7-sulfonic acid disodium salt (Cl 10.316, Acid Yellow 1, Food Yellow No. 1), 2- (indan-1, 3-dione) 2-yl) - quinoline-x, x-sulfonic acid (mixture of mono- and disulfonic acid) (Cl 47.005, D & C Yellow No. 10, Food Yellow No. 13, Acid Yellow 3, Yellow 10), 5-hydroxy-1 - (4-sulfophenyl) -4 - [(4-sulfophenyl) azo] - pyrazole-3-carboxylic acid trisodium salt (Cl 19.140, Food Yellow No.
  • Preferred anionic substantive dyes are those having the international designations or trade names Acid Yellow 1, Acid Yellow 10, Acid Yellow 23, Acid Yellow 36, Acid Orange 7, Acid Red 33, Acid Red 52, Pigment Red 57: 1, Acid Blue 7 , Acid Green 50, Acid Violet 43, Acid Black 1, Acid Black 52 and tetrabromophenol blue known compounds.
  • Suitable cationic substantive dyes are, in particular, di [4- (diethylamino) phenyl] [4- (ethylamino) naphthyl] carbenium chloride (CI 42,595, Basic Blue 7), di [4- (dimethylamino) phenyl] [4- (phenylamino ) naphthyl] carbenium chloride (Cl 44.045; Basic Blue 26), 8-amino-2-bromo-5-hydroxy-4-imino-6 - [(3- (trimethylammonio) phenyl) amino] -1 (4H) - naphthalene chloride (Cl 56.059, Basic Blue No.
  • Suitable nonionic substantive dyes are in particular nonionic nitro and quinone dyes and neutral azo dyes.
  • Particularly suitable blue nitro dyes are 1,4-bis [(2-hydroxyethyl) amino] -2-nitrobenzene (HC Violet BS), 1- (2-hydroxyethyl) amino-2-nitro-4- [di (2-hydroxyethyl) amino] -benzene (HC Blue 2), 4- [di (2-hydroxyethyl) amino] -1 - [(2-methoxyethyl) amino] -2-nitrobenzene (HC Blue 1: 1), 4- [ethyl (2 - hydroxyethyl) amino] -1 - [(2-hydroxyethyl) amino] -2-nitrobenzene hydrochloride (HC Blue 12), 1- (2-hydroxyethyl) amino-2-nitro-4-N-ethyl-N- (2-hydroxyethyl) aminobenzene (HC Blue 15), 1-amino-3-methyl-4 - [(2-hydroxyethyl) amino] -6-nitrobenzene (HC Violet 1), 1- (3-hydroxypropylamino)
  • Suitable red nitro dyes are in particular 1-amino-4 - [(2-hydroxyethyl) amino] -2-nitrobenzene (HC Red 7), 2-amino-4,6-dinitrophenol (pikramic acid) and their salts, 1, 4-diamino 2-nitrobenzene (Cl 76.070), 4-amino-2-nitro-diphenylamine (HC Red 1), 1-amino-4- [di (2-hydroxyethyl) -amino] -2-nitrobenzene hydrochloride (HC Red 13), 1-amino-4 - [(2-hydroxyethyl) amino] -5-chloro-2-nitrobenzene, 4-amino-1 - [(2-hydroxyethyl) amino] -2-nitrobenzene (HC Red 3 ), 4 - [(2-hydroxyethyl) amino] -3-nitrotoluene, 4-amino-3-nitrophenol, 4 - [(2-hydroxyethyl) amino] -3-nitrophenol
  • Particularly suitable yellow nitro dyes are 1,2-diamino-4-nitrobenzene (Cl 76.020), 1 - [(2-hydroxyethyl) amino] -2-nitrobenzene (HC Yellow 2), 1- (2-hydroxyethoxy) -2- [ (2-hydroxyethyl) amino] -5-nitrobenzene (HC Yellow 4), 1-amino-2 - [(2-hydroxyethyl) amino] -5-nitrobenzene (HC Yellow 5), 4- [(2,3-dihydroxypropyl ) -amino] -3-nitro-1-trifluoromethylbenzene (HC Yellow 6), 2 - [(2-hydroxyethyl) amino] -1-methoxy-5-nitrobenzene, 2-amino-4-nitrophenol, 1 - (2-Hydroxyethoxy) -3-methylamino-4-nitrobenzene, 2,3- (dihydroxypropoxy) -3-methylamino-4-nitrobenzene, 3 - [(2-amin
  • Suitable quinone dyes are, in particular, 1 - [(2-hydroxyethyl) amino] -4-methylamino-9,10-anthraquinone (Cl 61, 505, Disperse Blue 3), mixtures of 1,4-bis [(2-hydroxyethyl) amino] - anthra-9,10-quinone with 1 - [(2-hydroxyethyl) amino] -4 - [(3-hydroxypropyl) amino] anthra-9,10-quinone and 1,4-bis [(3-hydroxypropyl) amino ] anthra-9,10-quinone (Disperse Blue 377), 1,4-diamino-9,10-anthraquinone (Cl 61, 100, Disperse Violet 1), 1-amino-4- (methylamino) -9,10- anthraquinone (CI 61, 105, Disperse Violet 4, Solvent Violet No.
  • Suitable neutral azo dyes are in particular 1 - [di (2-hydroxyethyl) amino] -3-methyl-4 - [(4-nitrophenyl) azo] benzene (Cl 11, 210, Disperse Red 17), 1 - [di (2 -hydroxyethyl) amino] -4 - [(4-nitrophenyl) azo] benzene (Disperse Black 9), 4 - [(4-aminophenyl) azo] -1 - [di (2-hydroxyethyl) amino] -3- methylbenzene (HC Yellow 7), 2,6-diamino-3 - [(pyridin-3-yl) azo] pyridine, 4 - [(4-nitrophenyl) azo] aniline (Cl 1, 005; Disperse Orange 3).
  • the color change preparations (I) according to the invention may also be naturally occurring dyes such as indigo (Indigoferia tinctoria), henna red (Lawsonia inermis), henna neutral or henna black.
  • indigo Indigoferia tinctoria
  • henna red Lawsonia inermis
  • henna neutral or henna black Other preferred natural dyes are included, for example, in chamomile flower, sandalwood, black tea, buckthorn bark, sage, bluewood, madder root, catechu and alkano root.
  • the color change preparations (I) according to the invention optionally contain the substantive dyes preferably in an amount of 0.01 to 20 wt .-%, based on their total weight.
  • the color change preparations (I) according to the invention comprise at least one bleach activator.
  • Additional bleach activators which may be used within the scope of this invention include peroxo compounds, furthermore compounds which give peroxycarboxylic acids and / or substituted perbenzoic acid under perhydrolysis conditions, carbonic acid derivatives, alkyl carbonates, carbamates, silyl carbonates and carbamates, and also cationic heterocycles.
  • the bleach activator is preferably selected from ammonium peroxodisulfate, alkali metal peroxodisulfates, ammonium peroxomonosulfate, alkali metal hydrogen peroxomonosulfates, alkali metal peroxodiphosphates and alkaline earth metal peroxides.
  • Particularly preferred bleach activators are ammonium peroxodisulfate, potassium peroxodisulfate, sodium peroxodisulfate, potassium hydrogen peroxomonosulfate, potassium peroxodiphosphate, magnesium peroxide and barium peroxide.
  • Particularly preferred bleach activators according to the invention are inorganic salts selected from peroxomonosulfates and / or peroxodisulfates. Furthermore, it has proved to be particularly preferred in the work of the present invention, when the color change preparations (I) contain at least two different peroxodisulfates.
  • Preferred peroxodisulfate salts are combinations of ammonium peroxodisulfate and potassium peroxodisulfate and / or sodium peroxodisulfate.
  • a further embodiment of this subject of the invention is therefore characterized in that the color-changing preparation (I) contains at least one inorganic persulfate or peroxodisulfate salt, in particular ammonium peroxodisulfate, potassium peroxodisulfate and / or sodium peroxodisulfate.
  • the peroxo compounds are contained in an amount of from 0.1 to 85% by weight, especially in an amount of from 0.5 to 75% by weight, based on the total weight of the color-changing preparation (I).
  • the use of persulfate salts or peroxodisulfate salts is generally carried out in the form of an optionally dedusted powder, a paste or a molding pressed into the mold.
  • the color-changing preparations (I) may contain, instead of and / or in addition to the solid peroxo compounds, a further bleaching-force activator.
  • Bleaching-force activators which can be used are compounds which, under perhydrolysis conditions, give aliphatic peroxycarboxylic acids having preferably 1 to 10 C atoms, in particular 2 to 4 C atoms, and / or optionally substituted perbenzoic acid.
  • TAED tetraacetylethylenediamine
  • DADHT 1,5-diacetyl-2,4-dioxohexahydro-1,3,5-triazine
  • TAGU tetraacetylglycoluril
  • NOSI N-nonanoylsuccinimide
  • n-nonanoyl or isononanoyl oxybenzenesulphonate n- or i-NOBS
  • phthalic anhydride triacetin, ethylene glycol diacetate and 2,5-diacetoxy-2,5-dihydrofuran.
  • carbonate salts or bicarbonate salts are preferably selected from the group of the ammonium, alkali metal (in particular sodium and potassium) and alkaline earth metal (in particular magnesium and calcium), carbonate salts or bicarbonate salts.
  • Particularly preferred carbonate or bicarbonate salts are ammonium hydrogencarbonate, ammonium carbonate, sodium bicarbonate, sodium carbonate, potassium bicarbonate, potassium carbonate, magnesium carbonate and calcium carbonate.
  • At least one cationic pyridinium derivative can be present in the color change preparation (I) as bleaching-force activator.
  • Preferred compounds are 4-acyl-pyridinium derivatives, 2-acylpyridinium derivatives and 3,4-dihydroiso- quinolinium derivatives. Particularly preferred are 2-acetyl-1-methylpyridinium p-toluenesulfonate and 4-acetyl-1-methylpyridinium p-toluenesulfonate and also N-methyl-3,4-dihydroisoquinoline-p-toluenesulfonate.
  • the bleach activators used in addition to or instead of peroxo compounds are preferably present in amounts of from 0.05 to 10% by weight, in particular in amounts of from 0.2 to 5% by weight, based in each case on the total weight of the color change preparation.
  • an oxidation-containing preparation is added to the preparation shortly before use.
  • dyeing formulations (I) which contain at least one oxidation dye precursor and / or at least one bleach activator, this may be preferred.
  • a further embodiment of the first subject of the invention is therefore a multi-component packaging unit, which is characterized in that the multicomponent packaging unit comprises in a further container (C) additionally at least one oxidizing agent preparation (III) containing at least one oxidizing agent in a cosmetically acceptable carrier medium.
  • the oxidizing agent preparation (III) preferably contains hydrogen peroxide as the oxidizing agent.
  • hydrogen peroxide itself is used as the aqueous solution.
  • Hydrogen peroxide can also be used in the form of a solid addition compound of hydrogen peroxide to inorganic or organic compounds such as sodium percarbamide, polyvinylpyrrolidinone n H 2 0 2 (n is a positive integer greater than 0), urea peroxide and melamine peroxide.
  • Hydrogen peroxide in the oxidizing agent preparation (III) is preferably 0.1 to 25% by weight, more preferably 1 to 20% by weight, and particularly preferably 4.5 to 9% by weight, each calculated to 100% Hydrogen peroxide and based on the total weight of the preparation included.
  • color change preparation (I) and the oxidizing agent preparation (III) are combined in a ratio by weight of from 3: 1 to 1: 3 with one another to give the ready-to-use colorant.
  • the pH values are pH values which were measured at a temperature of 22 ° C.
  • the oxidizing agent preparation (III) preferably has a weakly acidic pH of 3 to 6.
  • the color change preparations (I) preferably have an alkaline pH, preferably an alkaline pH of 8 to 12, in particular from 9 to 1 1, 5 and particularly preferably from 9.5 to 1 1.
  • a further, preferred embodiment of the first subject of the invention is therefore a multi-component packaging unit, which is characterized in that the color change preparation (I) contains at least one alkalizing agent.
  • the alkalizing agent is preferably selected from the group consisting of ammonia, monoethanolamine, 2-amino-2-methylpropanol, triethanolamine, sodium hydroxide and potassium hydroxide.
  • the proportion of the alkalizing agent in the color-changing preparation (I) is preferably sufficient to bring the color-change preparation (I) and the oxidizing agent preparation (III) ready-to-use colorant to a preferably an alkaline pH of 8 to 12, especially 9 to 11.5 particularly preferably from 9.5 to 1 1, adjust.
  • the preparation (I) and (III) preferably contains a surface-active compound, in particular a surfactant.
  • a surfactant in particular a surfactant.
  • anionic, nonionic, zwitterionic and amphoteric surfactants are particularly suitable.
  • a particularly preferred embodiment of the first subject of the invention is therefore a multicomponent packaging unit, which is characterized in that the color change preparation (I) additionally contains at least one anionic, nonionic, zwitterionic and / or amphoteric surfactant.
  • Suitable anionic surfactants in preparations according to the invention are all anionic surfactants suitable for use on the human body. These are characterized by a water-solubilizing, anionic group such as a carboxylate, sulfate, sulfonate or phosphate group and a lipophilic alkyl group of about 8 to 30 carbon atoms.
  • anionic group such as a carboxylate, sulfate, sulfonate or phosphate group
  • a lipophilic alkyl group of about 8 to 30 carbon atoms.
  • glycol or polyglycol ether groups, ester, ether and amide groups and hydroxyl groups may be present in the molecule.
  • Suitable anionic Surfactants are linear and branched fatty acids having 8 to 30 carbon atoms (soaps), alkyl ether carboxylic acids, acylsarcosides, acyl taurides, acyl isethionates, sulfosuccinic acid mono-, dialkyl and sulfosuccinic monoalkylpolyoxyethylester, linear alkanesulfonates, linear ⁇ -olefinsulfonates, alkyl sulfates and alkyl ether sulfates and alkyl and / or alkenyl phosphates.
  • Preferred anionic surfactants are alkyl sulfates, alkyl ether sulfates and alkyl ether carboxylic acids having in each case 10 to 18 C atoms in the alkyl group and up to 12 glycol ether groups in the molecule.
  • Examples of such surfactants are the compounds with the INCI names Sodium Laureth Sulfate, Sodium Lauryl Sulfate, Sodium Myreth Sulfate or Sodium Laureth Carboxylate.
  • Zwitterionic surfactants are surface-active compounds which carry at least one quaternary ammonium group and at least one carboxylate, sulfonate or sulfate group in the molecule.
  • Particularly suitable zwitterionic surfactants are the so-called betaines such as N-alkyl-N, N-dimethylammonium glycinates, for example cocoalkyldimethylammonium glycinate, N-acylaminopropyl-N, N-dimethylammonium glycinates, for example cocoacylaminopropyl-dimethylammonium glycinate, and Alkyl-3-carboxymethyl-3-hydroxyethyl imidazoline having in each case 8 to 18 carbon atoms in the alkyl or acyl group and the Kokosacyl- aminoethylhydroxyethylcarboxymethylglycinat.
  • a preferred zwitterionic surfactant is the fatty acid amide derivative known by the
  • Amphoteric surfactants are understood as meaning those surface-active compounds which, apart from a C 8 -C 24 -alkyl or -acyl group in the molecule, contain at least one free amino group and at least one -COOH or -SO 3 H group and are capable of forming internal salts .
  • suitable amphoteric surfactants are N-alkylglycines, N-alkylpropionic acids, N-alkylaminobutyric acids, N-alkyliminodipropionic acids, N-hydroxyethyl-N-alkylamidopropylglycines, N-alkyltaurines, N-alkylsarcosines, 2-alkylaminopropionic acids and alkylaminoacetic acids each having about 8 to 24 C Atoms in the alkyl group.
  • Particularly preferred amphoteric surfactants are N-cocoalkylaminopropionate, cocoacylaminoethylaminopropionate and
  • Nonionic surfactants contain as hydrophilic group z.
  • a polyol group for example, a polyalkylene glycol ether group or a combination of polyol and polyglycol ether group.
  • Such compounds are, for example, adducts of 4 to 50 moles of ethylene oxide and / or 0 to 5 moles of propylene oxide with linear and branched fatty alcohols, fatty acids and alkylphenols, each having 8 to 20 carbon atoms in the alkyl group, ethoxylated mono-, di- and Triglycerides, such as glycerol monolaurate + 20 ethylene oxide, and glycerol monostearate + 20 ethylene oxide, sorbitan fatty acid esters and adducts of ethylene oxide with sorbitan fatty acid esters such as the polysorbates (TWEEN 20, TWEEN 21, TWEEN 60, TWEEN 61, TWEEN 81), addition products of ethylene oxide onto fatty acid alkan
  • Suitable nonionic surfactants are in particular C 8 -C 22 -alkyl mono- and -oligo- glycosides and their ethoxylated analogs and alkylene oxide addition products of saturated or unsaturated linear fatty alcohols with 2 to 30 mol of ethylene oxide per mole of fatty alcohol.
  • the anionic, nonionic, zwitterionic or amphoteric surfactants are used in amounts of from 0.1 to 50% by weight, preferably from 1 to 30% by weight and very particularly preferably from 1 to 25% by weight, based on the total amount of the dyeing preparation (I). used.
  • the conditioning preparation (II) of the multi-component packaging unit of the first subject of the invention contains at least 0.5% by weight of a reducing agent, based on the total weight of the preparation (II).
  • Suitable reducing agents are physiologically acceptable organic and inorganic reducing agents. Preference is given here to organic thiol compounds and inorganic sulfur salts.
  • An embodiment of the first subject of the invention is therefore a multicomponent packaging unit, which is characterized in that the conditioning preparation (II) contains as reducing agent an organic thiol compound and / or an inorganic sulfur salt.
  • the organic thiol compound of the conditioning preparation (II) still has at least one further functional group selected from an amino group, a hydroxy group or a carboxylic acid group. If the thiol compound additionally has a carboxylic acid group, this is most preferred.
  • the organic thiol compound can be used as an uncharged compound. If the thiol compound contains protonatable or deprotonatable structural units, it is also possible to use these as a physiologically acceptable salt or, if possible, as a zwitterionic inner salt.
  • carboxylic acid group-containing thiol compounds are preferably present in the form of the corresponding carboxylate compound.
  • Carboxylatzy a deprotonated carboxylic acid group is called, which is negatively charged after cleavage of the acidic proton.
  • To neutralize the negative charge and the total charge balance must be a positively charged counterion.
  • the positive counterion is an alkali metal cation, in particular sodium (Na + ) or potassium (K + ), an ammonium ion (NH 4 + ) or a positively charged organic ammonium ion (eg HO-CH 2 -CH 2 - NI-l3 + ).
  • Exemplary and particularly suitable thiol compounds of the conditioning preparation (II) are cysteine, cysteine hydrochloride, thioglycolic acid, ammonium thioglycolate, ethanolamine thioglycolate and thiolactic acid.
  • An embodiment of the first subject of the invention is therefore a multicomponent packaging unit, which is characterized in that the conditioning preparation (II) contains as reducing agent at least one compound which is selected from the group formed by cysteine, thio-glycolic acid, thio-lactic acid and / or their physiologically acceptable salts.
  • Physiologically acceptable salts are the already mentioned deprotonation of carboxylic acids, but also cationic compounds in which in particular amine groups in the thiol compound by means of suitable acids, in particular mineral acids such as hydrochloric acid, hydrogen bromide or sulfuric acid, organic acids such as citric acid, tartaric acid or acetic acid , or organic sulfonic acids, such as p-toluenesulfonic acid, benzenesulfonic acid or methanesulfonic acid, are converted into the corresponding protonation.
  • suitable acids in particular mineral acids such as hydrochloric acid, hydrogen bromide or sulfuric acid, organic acids such as citric acid, tartaric acid or acetic acid, or organic sulfonic acids, such as p-toluenesulfonic acid, benzenesulfonic acid or methanesulfonic acid, are converted into the corresponding protonation.
  • organic thiol compound are thio-lactic acid and / or their cosmetically acceptable salts.
  • an inorganic sulfur salt can be further used as the reducing agent of the conditioning preparation (II).
  • a sulfur salt is to be understood as meaning a salt which contains at least one sulfur atom in its empirical formula.
  • Sulfur salts suitable as reducing agents are in particular sulfides (S 2 ⁇ ), sulfites (S0 3 2 ⁇ ), dithionites (S 2 0 4 2 ⁇ ) and thiosulfates (S 2 0 3 2 ⁇ ), preferably with ammonium, alkali metal or alkaline earth metal cations for charge balance. Ammonium and sodium salts are preferred here.
  • An embodiment of the first subject of the invention is a multicomponent packaging unit which is characterized in that the conditioning preparation (II) contains as reducing agent at least one compound selected from sodium sulfide, sodium sulfite, sodium thiosulfate and / or sodium dithionite.
  • the inorganic sulfur salt is sodium dithionite.
  • the conditioning preparation (II) preferably contains the reducing agent (s) in a proportion by weight of from 0.5 to 25% by weight, preferably from 0.7 to 15% by weight, particularly preferably from 1.0 to 10% by weight, in each case based on the total weight of the preparation (II).
  • the conditioning preparation preferably contains further additives which are suitable for conditioning and improving the care state of the hair.
  • conditioning preparation (I) contains at least one cationic surfactant.
  • Suitable cationic surfactants are, for example, quaternized fatty acid esters of aminoalkanols and quaternized fatty acid amides of diaminoalkanes.
  • examples of such surfactants are the commercial products Schercoquat BAS, Lexquat AMG-BEO, Akypoquat 131 or Incroquat Behenyl HE.
  • esterquats such as the products Armocare VGH-70, an N, N-bis (2-palmitoyloxyethyl) dimethylammonium chloride, and also Dehyquart F-75, Dehyquart C-4046, Dehyquart L80, Dehyquart F-30, Dehyquart AU-35, Rewoquat WE18, Rewoquat WE38 DPG and Stepantex VS 90. are examples of such esterquats.
  • cationic surfactants suitable according to the invention are monoalkyltrimethylammonium salts, such as, for example, compounds cetyltrimethylammonium chloride, cetyltrimethylammonium bromide, cetyltrimethylammonium methosulfate, stearyltrimethylammonium chloride, behenyltrimethylammonium chloride, behenyltrimethylammonium bromide and behenyltrimethylammonium methosulfate and dialkyldimethylammonium salts, for example distearyldimethylammonium chloride
  • cationic surfactants which are suitable according to the invention are quaternizable or cationic alkylamidoamines.
  • Quaternizable alkylamines include Witcamine 100 (INCI name: cocamidopropyl dimethylamine), Incromine BB (INCI name: behenamidopropyl dimethylamine), Mackine 401 (INCI name: isostearylamidopropyl dimethylamine) and other types of mackine, and Adogen S18V (INCI).
  • suitable permanent cationic aminoamines include Rewoquat RTM 50 (INCI name: Ricinoleamidopropyltrimonium Methosulfate), Empigen CSC (INCI name: Cocamidopropyltrimonium chloride), Swanol Lanoquat DES-50 (INCI name: Quatemium-33) , Rewoquat UTM 50 (Undecyleneamidopropyltrimonium Methosulfate).
  • cationic imidazoline compounds are suitable as cationic surfactant according to the invention. These include, for example, the compounds with the INCI names Quaternium-91 or Quaternium-87.
  • the anion of all of the previously described cationic compounds is selected from the physiologically acceptable anions.
  • exemplary of these are the halide ions, fluoride, chloride, Bromide, sulfate of the general formula RSO 3 " , wherein R has the meaning of saturated or unsaturated alkyl radicals having 1 to 4 carbon atoms, or anionic organic acid residues such as maleate, fumarate, oxalate, tartrate, citrate, lactate or acetate, called.
  • the abovementioned cationic surfactants can be used individually or in any desired combinations with each other, amounts of between 0.01% and 20% by weight, preferably in amounts of from 0.01% to 10% by weight, and very particularly preferably in amounts of 0, 1 to 7.5 wt .-% included. The very best results are obtained with amounts of 0.1 to 5 wt .-%, each based on the total composition of the conditioning (II).
  • the conditioning preparation contains at least one silicone.
  • Preferred silicones are selected from the group of dimethicones and / or the group of cyclomethicones and / or the group of dimethiconols and / or the group of amino-functional silicones.
  • the compositions according to the invention more preferably contain no cyclomethicones in addition to the selected silicones.
  • Suitable dimethicones are the commercial products designated Dow Corning 1664.
  • Suitable dimethiconols are, for example, the commercial products Dow Corning 1-1254 Fluid, Dow Corning 2-9023 Fluid, Dow Coming 2-9026 Fluid, Abil OSW, Dow Coming 1401 Fluid, Dow Corning 1403 Fluid, Dow Corning 1501 Fluid, Dow Corning 1784 HVF Emulsion, Dow Corning 9546 Silicone Elastomer Blend, SM555, SM2725, SM2765, SM2785, Wacker-Belsil CM 1000, Wacker-Belsil CM 3092, Wacker-Belsil CM 5040, Wacker Belsil DM 3096, Wacker-Belsil DM 31 12 VP, Wacker-Belsil DM 8005 VP, Wacker-Belsil DM 60081 VP.
  • amino-functional silicones which are suitable according to the invention are cationic silicone oils, such as, for example, the commercially available products Dow Corning 929 Emulsion, DC 2-2078, DC 5-71 13, SM-2059 and SLM-55067, and also trimethylsilylamodimethicone, such as Q2-7224.
  • cationic silicone oils such as, for example, the commercially available products Dow Corning 929 Emulsion, DC 2-2078, DC 5-71 13, SM-2059 and SLM-55067
  • trimethylsilylamodimethicone such as Q2-7224.
  • Other suitable aminofunctional silicones according to the invention are amodimethicones, for example bis (C 3 -C 5 -alkoxy) PG amodimethicone (commercial product DC 8500) and trideceth-9 PG-amodimethicone (commercial product Silcare Silicone SEA).
  • suitable amino-functional silicones are, for example, the commercial products SilSense Q Plus, Dow Coming 5-71 13 (Silicone Quaternium-16), Dow Corning 5-7070 (Silicone Quaternium-16 / Glycidoxy Dimethicone Crosspolymer), Silquat Polyether Fatty Quats Type Siltech AD (Silicone Quaternium-8), Silquat AC and Silquat D208, silicones of the SilCare Silicone SEA type, and Abilquat T-60 (Silicone Quaternium-22) and Abil Quat 3270, 3272 and 3474 (Quaternium-80).
  • Conditioning compositions (II) which are preferred according to the invention are characterized in that, based on their weight, they contain 0.01 to 10% by weight, preferably 0.01 to 8% by weight, particularly preferably 0.1 to 7.5% by weight. % and in particular 0.2 to 5 wt .-% silicone (s) included.
  • the conditioning formulations (II) according to the invention may contain at least one ester oil.
  • Preferred ester oils are isopropyl myristate (Rilanit IPM), monosulfonic acid C 6 -C 8 alkyl ester (Cetiol SN), 2-ethylhexyl palmitate (Cegesoft 24), stearic acid 2-ethylhexyl ester (Cetiol 868), cetyl oleate, glycerol tricaprylate, coconut fatty alcohol caprinate caprylate (Cetiol LC), n-butyl stearate, oleyl erucate (Cetiol J 600), isopropyl palmitate (Rilanit IPP), oleyl oleate (Cetiol), lauric acid hexyl ester (Cetiol A), di-n-butyl adipate (Cetiol B
  • ester oils alkoxylated with ethylene oxide, propylene oxide, or mixtures of ethylene oxide and propylene oxide such as PPG-3 benzyl ether myristate (Crodamol STS).
  • ester oils are dicarboxylic acid esters such as di-n-butyl adipate, di- (2-ethylhexyl) adipate, di- (2-ethylhexyl) succinate and di-isotrixyl oxalate and diol esters such as ethylene glycol dioleate, ethylene glycol di-isotridecanoate, Propylene glycol di (2-ethylhexanoate), propylene glycol diisostearate, propylene glycol di-pelargonate, butanediol diisostearate, neopentyl glycol dicaprylate.
  • ester oil Likewise suitable as ester oil are symmetrical, unsymmetrical or cyclic esters of carbonic acid with fatty alcohols, for example glycerol carbonate or dicaprylyl carbonate (Cetiol CC) and triflic acid esters of saturated and / or unsaturated linear and / or branched fatty acids with glycerol, and fatty acid partial glycerides, such as monoglycerides, diglycerides and their technical mixtures.
  • glycerol carbonate or dicaprylyl carbonate Cetiol CC
  • triflic acid esters of saturated and / or unsaturated linear and / or branched fatty acids with glycerol and fatty acid partial glycerides, such as monoglycerides, diglycerides and their technical mixtures.
  • ester oils are used in the conditioning formulations (II) according to the invention in an amount of from 0.01 to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.01 to 10.0% by weight, particularly preferably from 0.01 to 7.5% by weight. , most preferably from 0.1 to 5.0 wt .-% used.
  • Cationic polymers are polymers which have in the main and / or side chain a group which is "temporarily” or “permanently” cationic.
  • Suitable polymers having quaternary amine groups are, for example, the polymers described in the CTFA Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary under the names Polyquaternium, such as methylvinylimidazolium chloride / vinylpyrrolidinone copolymer (Polyquaternium-16), quaternized vinylpyrrolidinone / dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate copolymer (Polyquaternium-11, trade names Gafquat 755 N and 734).
  • copolymers of vinylpyrrolidinone and Imidazoliminmethochlorid (Luviquat HM 550) and vinylpyrrolidinone / Methacrylamidopropyltri- methylammonium chloride copolymers (Gafquat HS 100).
  • homopolymers such as poly (methacryloyloxyethyltrimethylammonium chloride) (INCI name Polyquaternium-37) with the trade names Rheocare CTH, Synthalen CR, Salcare SC 95 and Salcare SC 96.
  • cationic polymers are cationic alkylpolyglycosides, cationized honey, for example the commercial product Honeyquat 50, polymeric dimethyldiallylammonium salts and their copolymers with esters and amides of acrylic acid and methacrylic acid, such as Merquatl OO (poly (dimethyldiallylammonium chloride)) and Merquat 550 (dimethyldiallylammonium chloride-acrylamide Copolymer), vinylpyrrolidinone-vinylimidazolium methochloride copolymers, such as, for example, Luviquat FC 370, FC 905 and HM 552, quaternized polyvinyl alcohol, vinylpyrrolidinone-vinylcaprolactam-acrylate terpolymers, such as Aquaflex SF 40, and those known under the names Polyquaternium-2, Polyquaternium-17, Polyquaternium-18 and Polyquaternium-27 known polymers with quaternary nitrogen atoms in the commercial
  • Suitable cationic polymers may be derived from natural polymers, in particular cationic derivatives of polysaccharides, for example cationic derivatives of cellulose, starch or guar. Also suitable are chitosan and chitosan derivatives.
  • cationic celluloses are the polymers with the trade names Polymer JR 400 (INCI name Polyquaternium-10), Polymer LM-200 (INCI name Polyquaternium-24), Celquat H 100 and Celquat L 200 (Polyquaternium-4) and SoftCAT SX 400 X, SL 5, SL 100 and SK-MH (Polyquaternium-67).
  • Suitable cationic guar derivatives are sold, for example, under the trade names Jaguar, N-Hance, Cosmedia Guar and AquaCat (INCI name Guar Hydroxypropyltrimonium Chloride).
  • chitosan is chitosan, optionally also its quaternized, alkylated and / or hydroxyalkylated derivatives.
  • suitable commercial products are Flonac or Kytamer PC and Hydagen CMF, Hydagen HCMF and Chitolam NB / 101.
  • Cationic polymers preferred according to the invention are cationic cellulose derivatives, chitosan and its derivatives, in particular the commercial products PolymerJR 400, Hydagen HCMF and Kytamer PC, cationic guar derivatives and cationic honey derivatives, in particular the commercial product Honeyquat 50.
  • the particularly preferred cationic polymeric compounds are Polyquaternium-37, Polyquaternium-10, Polyquaternium-1 1 and Polyquaternium-16.
  • cationized protein hydrolysates can be used as cationic polymers according to the invention, the underlying protein hydrolyzate being derived from the animal, for example from Collagen, milk or keratin, from the plant, for example from wheat, corn, rice, potatoes, soy or almonds, marine life forms, such as fish collagen or algae, or biotechnologically derived protein hydrolysates may originate. Preference is given to those cationic protein hydrolyzates whose underlying protein content has a molecular weight of 100 to 25,000 daltons, preferably 250 to 5000 daltons.
  • the cationic polymers are preferably in the conditioning formulations (II) in an amount of 0.01 to 5 wt .-%, preferably 0.01 to 3.0 wt .-% and particularly preferably in an amount of 0.05 to 3, 0 wt .-%, each based on the total weight of the conditioning preparation containing.
  • the conditioning formulations (II) may contain amphoteric polymers.
  • amphoteric polymers are terpolymers of dimethyldiallylammonium chloride, sodium acrylate and acrylamide (Polyquaternium-39, trade names Merquat Plus 3300 and Merquat Plus 3330), copolymers of diallyldimethylammonium chloride and acrylic acid (INCI name Polyquaternium-22), such as, for example Commercial products Merquat 280 or Merquat 281.
  • amphoteric polymers are contained in the agents according to the invention preferably in proportions by weight of 0.01 to 10 wt .-%, preferably 0.01 to 5 wt .-%, each based on the total agent.
  • cosmetic oils may additionally be used in the conditioning preparation.
  • These oil bodies preferably have a melting point of less than 50.degree. C., more preferably less than 40.degree. C. and more preferably less than 30.degree.
  • Suitable oils are, for example, vegetable oils, such as amaranth seed oil, apricot kernel oil, argan oil, avocado oil, babassu oil, cottonseed oil, borage seed oil, camelina oil, thistle oil, peanut oil, pomegranate seed oil, grapefruit seed oil, hemp oil, hazelnut oil, elderflower seed oil, currant seed oil, jojoba oil, cocoa butter, the liquid ones Proportions of coconut oil, linseed oil, macadamia nut oil, corn oil, almond oil, marula oil, evening primrose oil, olive oil, orange oil, palm oil, peach kernel oil, rapeseed oil, rice oil, sea buckthorn oil, sea buckthorn seed oil, sesame oil, shea butter, soybean oil, sunflower oil, grapeseed oil, walnut oil, wheat germ oil or wild rose oil, others Triglyceride oils such as the liquid fractions of beef tallow and synthetic triglyceride oils, further liquid paraffin oils, isoparaffin oils
  • the conditioning agents contain at least one surface-active substance, wherein in principle both anionic and zwitterionic, ampholytic, nonionic and cationic surface-active substances are suitable.
  • Further preferred conditioning formulations (II) of the first subject of the invention contain at least one carbohydrate, a sugar alcohol or sugar.
  • Monosaccharides, disaccharides, trisaccharides and oligosaccharides, aminodeoxy sugars, deoxysugars and thiosugars are particularly advantageous here.
  • Examples include sorbitol, inositol, mannitol, tetrite, pentite, hexite, threitol, erythritol, adonite, arabitol, xylitol, dulcitol, erythrose, threose, arabinose, ribose, xylose, lyxose, glucose, galactose, mannose, allose, altrose, gulose , Idose, talose, fructose, sorbose, psicose, tegatose, deoxyribose, glucosamine, galactosamine, rhamnose, digitoxose, thioglucose, sucrose, trehalose, lactose, maltose, cellobiose, melibiose, gestiobiose, rutinose, raffinose
  • compositions according to the invention are preferred which, based on the weight of the composition, contain 0.01 to 5% by weight, preferably 0.05 to 4% by weight, particularly preferably 0.05 to 3.5 Wt .-% and in particular 0.1 to 2.5 wt .-% of carbohydrates.
  • Preferred conditioning formulations (II) of the first subject of the invention further contain vitamins, provitamins or vitamin precursors in the compositions.
  • the compositions according to the invention preferably contain vitamins, provitamins and vitamin precursors from groups A, B, E, F and H. Vitamin B and biotin are very particularly preferred.
  • the conditioning preparations (II) are preferably in liquid or pasty form, in each case preferably on an aqueous basis.
  • the pH of this formulation may be adjusted to a value of pH 2 to pH 11.
  • the pH values are pH values which were measured at room temperature (about 22 ° C.).
  • common acidifying and alkalizing agents are known to the person skilled in the art.
  • the alkalizing agents which can be used for adjusting the pH are typically selected from ammonia, inorganic salts, in particular the alkali and alkaline earth metals, organic alkalizing agents, in particular especially alkanolamines, amines and basic amino acids.
  • Acidifying agents which are preferred according to the invention are indulgent acids, such as lactic acid, citric acid, acetic acid, malic acid or tartaric acid, dilute mineral acids and their acid-reacting salts in water and organic phosphonic or sulfonic acids.
  • To stabilize the pH further appropriate pH buffer systems can be added.
  • conditioning preparations (II) have a neutral to acidic pH of from pH 2 to 7, in particular from pH 2.5 to 6.
  • the components (I), (II) and, if appropriate, (III) of the multicomponent packaging unit of the first subject of the invention may contain further cosmetic active substances and auxiliary substances.
  • the ready-to-use preparations preferably have a viscosity which makes it possible for the agent to be applied well on the one hand and on the other hand to have such a flow behavior that it guarantees the agent a sufficiently long action time on the weft.
  • the components contain at least one thickener for adjusting the viscosity of the preparations.
  • these thickeners there are no fundamental restrictions. Both organic and purely inorganic thickening agents can be used.
  • Suitable additional thickening agents are
  • nonionic, synthetic polymers such as vinylpyrrolidinone / vinyl acrylate copolymers, polyvinylpyrrolidinone, polyethylene glycols and polysiloxanes;
  • anionic, synthetic polymers such as, for example, polyacrylic acids or crosslinked polyacrylic acids;
  • cationic, synthetic polymers such as quaternized cellulose ethers, quaternary group polysiloxanes, dimethyldiallylammonium chloride polymers, acrylamide-dimethyldiallylammonium chloride copolymers, diethyl sulfate-quaternized dimethylaminoethylmethacrylate-vinylpyrrolidinone copolymers, vinylpyrrolidinone-imidazolinium methochloride copolymers and quaternized polyvinylalcohol ;
  • guar gums such as nonionic guar gums, scleroglucan gums or xanthan gums, gum arabic, ghatti gum, karaya gum, gum tragacanth, carrageenan gum, agar, locust bean gum, pectins, alginates, starch fractions and derivatives such as amylose, Amylopectin and dextrins, as well as cellulose derivatives such as methylcellulose, carboxyalkylcelluloses and hydroxyalkylcelluloses;
  • nonionic, fully synthetic polymers such as polyvinyl alcohol or polyvinylpyrrolidinone; such as inorganic thickening agents, especially phyllosilicates such as bentonite, especially smectites such as montmorillonite or hectorite.
  • the cosmetic compositions according to the invention may comprise further active ingredients, auxiliaries and additives, such as natural or synthetic waxes, such as solid paraffins or isoparaffins, carnauba waxes, beeswaxes, candelilla waxes, ozokerites, ceresin, sunflower wax, fruit waxes such as apple wax or citrus wax, microwaxes PE or PP,
  • auxiliaries and additives such as natural or synthetic waxes, such as solid paraffins or isoparaffins, carnauba waxes, beeswaxes, candelilla waxes, ozokerites, ceresin, sunflower wax, fruit waxes such as apple wax or citrus wax, microwaxes PE or PP,
  • Purine and purine derivatives such as purine, adenine, guanine, uric acid, hypoxanthine, 6-purinethiol, 6-thioguanine, xanthine, caffeine, theobromine or theophylline,
  • Carnitine and carnitine derivatives such as carnitine, carnitine tartrate, carnitine magnesium citrate, acetylcarnitine, betalain, 1,1-dimethyl-proline, choline, choline chloride, choline bitartrate, choline dihydrogen citrate and ⁇ , ⁇ , ⁇ -trimethylglycine,
  • Taurine and taurine derovates, in particular 2-aminoethanesulfonic acid and N-monomethyltaurine, ⁇ , ⁇ -dimethyltaurine, tauryllysylate, taurine tartrate, taurine ornithine, lysyl taurine, ornithiotentaurine, taurocholic acid and hypotaurine,
  • Protein hydrolysates in particular animal protein hydrolysates, such as elastin, collagen, keratin, silk and milk protein protein hydrolysates, vegetable protein hydrolysates, such as soybean, almond, pea, Moringa, potato and wheat protein hydrolysates, and maritime Protein hydrolysates such as fish or algae collagen hydrolyzates and shell hydrolyzate protein hydrolysates, plant extracts such as green tea, oak bark, stinging nettle, witch hazel, hops, henna, chamomile, burdock, horsetail, hawthorn, linden, almond, aloe vera , Spruce needle, horse chestnut, sandalwood, juniper, coconut, mango, apricot, acai berry, cranberry, lime, wheat, kiwi, melon, orange, grapefruit, sage, rosemary, birch, mallow, valerian, meadowfoam, quenelle, yarrow, thyme , Lemon balm,
  • Fatty alcohols in particular saturated, mono- or polyunsaturated, branched or unbranched fatty alcohols with C 6 -C 30 -, preferably C 0 -C 22 - and very particularly preferably C 12 -C 22 carbon atoms, such as oleyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, Lauryl alcohol, linoleyl alcohol, and behenyl alcohol, as well as Guerbet alcohols, fatty acids such as 2-ethylhexanoic acid, isotridecanoic acid, myristic acid, palmitic acid, palmitoleic acid, stearic acid, isostearic acid, oleic acid, linoleic acid, linolenic acid, behenic acid and erucic acid and their technical mixtures,
  • Biochinones especially ubiquinone and coenzyme Q-10,
  • UV-protection filters with a negative effect in the range of UV-A, UV-B and UV-C light both as water-soluble and oil-soluble filters Cellulose ethers, such as hydroxypropylcellulose, hydroxyethylcellulose and methylhydroxypropylcellulose, as marketed, for example, under the trademarks Culminal and Benecel (AQUALON) and Natrosol types (Hercules).
  • Starch and its derivatives in particular starch ethers, for example Structure XL (National
  • Starch or Structure ZEA, multifunctional, salt-tolerant starches
  • Structurants such as maleic acid and lactic acid
  • Swelling agents such as urea, allantoin, carbonates or hydantoin
  • Anti-dandruff agents such as Piroctone Olamine, Zinc Omadine and Climbazole,
  • Complexing agents such as EDTA, HEDP, EDDS, NTA, ⁇ -alaninediacetic acid and phosphonic acids, opacifiers such as latex, styrene / PVP and styrene / acrylamide copolymers
  • Pearlescing agents such as ethylene glycol mono- and distearate and PEG-3-distearate,
  • Propellants such as propane-butane mixtures, N 2 O, dimethyl ether, C0 2 and air,
  • the additional active ingredients and auxiliaries are preferably used in the agents according to the invention in amounts of from 0.0001 to 25% by weight, in particular from 0.0005 to 15% by weight, based on the total weight of the components.
  • a preferred embodiment of the first subject of the invention is a multi-component packaging unit, comprising three separately manufactured components, which is characterized in that
  • the first color-changing preparation (I) in a cosmetically acceptable carrier medium contains at least one oxidation dye precursor and at least one alkalizing agent selected from ammonia, monoethanolamine, 2-amino-2-methylpropanol, triethanolamine, sodium hydroxide and potassium hydroxide,
  • the second oxidation preparation (III) contains a cosmetically acceptable carrier medium hydrogen peroxide in a proportion of 0.01 to 12 wt .-%, based on the total weight of component (III), and
  • the conditioning preparation (II) in a cosmetically acceptable carrier medium at least one reducing agent selected from thio-lactic acid, thio-glycolic acid, cysteine and / or their cosmetically acceptable salts and / or selected from sodium sulfide, sodium sulfite, sodium thiosulfate and / or sodium dithionite.
  • a further preferred embodiment of the first subject of the invention is a multi-component packaging unit, comprising three separately manufactured components, which is characterized in that
  • the first color-changing preparation (I) in a cosmetically acceptable carrier medium contains at least one oxidation dye precursor and at least one alkalizing agent selected from ammonia, monoethanolamine, 2-amino-2-methylpropanol, triethanolamine, sodium hydroxide and potassium hydroxide,
  • the second oxidation preparation (III) contains a cosmetically acceptable carrier medium hydrogen peroxide in a proportion of 0.01 to 12 wt .-%, based on the total weight of component (III), and
  • the conditioning preparation (II) in a cosmetically acceptable carrier medium at least one reducing agent selected from thio-lactic acid, thio-glycolic acid, cysteine and / or their cosmetically acceptable salts.
  • a further preferred embodiment of the first subject of the invention is a multi-component packaging unit, comprising three separately manufactured components, which is characterized in that
  • the first color-changing preparation (I) in a cosmetically acceptable carrier medium contains at least one oxidation dye precursor and at least one alkalizing agent selected from ammonia, monoethanolamine, 2-amino-2-methylpropanol, triethanolamine, sodium hydroxide and potassium hydroxide,
  • the second oxidation preparation (III) contains a cosmetically acceptable carrier medium hydrogen peroxide in a proportion of 0.01 to 12 wt .-%, based on the total weight of component (III), and
  • the conditioning preparation (II) in a cosmetically acceptable carrier medium at least one reducing agent selected from sodium sulfide, sodium sulfite, sodium thiosulfate and / or sodium dithionite containing.
  • a further preferred embodiment of the first subject of the invention is a multi-component packaging unit, comprising three separately manufactured components, which is characterized in that
  • the first color-changing preparation (I) in a cosmetically acceptable carrier medium contains at least one oxidation dye precursor and at least one alkalizing agent selected from ammonia, monoethanolamine, 2-amino-2-methylpropanol, triethanolamine, sodium hydroxide and potassium hydroxide
  • the second oxidation preparation (III) contains a cosmetically acceptable carrier medium hydrogen peroxide in a proportion of 0.01 to 12 wt .-%, based on the total weight of component (III), and
  • the conditioning preparation (II) in a cosmetically acceptable carrier medium at least one reducing agent selected from thio-lactic acid and / or their cosmetically acceptable salts.
  • a further preferred embodiment of the first subject of the invention is a multi-component packaging unit, comprising three separately manufactured components, which is characterized in that
  • the first color-changing preparation (I) in a cosmetically acceptable carrier medium contains at least one oxidation dye precursor and at least one alkalizing agent selected from ammonia, monoethanolamine, 2-amino-2-methylpropanol, triethanolamine, sodium hydroxide and potassium hydroxide,
  • the second oxidation preparation (III) contains a cosmetically acceptable carrier medium hydrogen peroxide in a proportion of 0.01 to 12 wt .-%, based on the total weight of component (III), and
  • the conditioning preparation (II) in a cosmetically acceptable carrier medium as a reducing agent at least ammonium thiolactate in a cosmetically acceptable carrier medium as a reducing agent at least ammonium thiolactate.
  • a further preferred embodiment of the first subject of the invention is a multi-component packaging unit, comprising three separately manufactured components, which is characterized in that
  • the first color-changing preparation (I) in a cosmetically acceptable carrier medium contains at least one oxidation dye precursor and at least one alkalizing agent selected from ammonia, monoethanolamine, 2-amino-2-methylpropanol, triethanolamine, sodium hydroxide and potassium hydroxide,
  • the second oxidation preparation (III) contains a cosmetically acceptable carrier medium hydrogen peroxide in a proportion of 0.01 to 12 wt .-%, based on the total weight of component (III), and
  • the components of the multicomponent packaging unit of the first subject of the invention are applied to the color change of keratinic fibers, in particular for the reduction of hair damage and to improve the color content, individually and successively.
  • multicomponent packaging unit comprises an oxidation preparation (III)
  • it is preferred according to the invention if first the color change preparation (I) with the oxidizing agent preparation (III) to an application ready immediately before use Color change agent is mixed and this is applied to the hair to be dyed. After completion of the color change, the conditioning preparation (II) is then applied.
  • a second object of the present invention is therefore a process for dyeing human hair, which is characterized in that
  • a color change preparation (I) of a multicomponent packaging unit of the first subject of the invention is applied to the hair,
  • a conditioning preparation (II) of a multicomponent packaging unit of the first subject of the invention is applied to the hair, left on the hair for an exposure time of 1 to 25 minutes and then washed with water.
  • An exposure phase at room temperature is also according to the invention.
  • the temperature during the exposure time between 20 ° C and 40 ° C, in particular between 25 ° C and 38 ° C.
  • the agents give good treatment results even at physiologically compatible temperatures of below 45 ° C.
  • aqueous preparation in particular with water itself or with a surfactant-containing cleaning agent.
  • a cleaning agent can in particular serve a commercial shampoo, in particular then can be dispensed with the detergent and the rinsing can be done with tap water, if the application preparation has a strong surfactant-containing carrier medium.
  • a color change preparation (I) and an oxidation preparation of a multi-component packaging unit of the first subject of the invention is mixed to a ready-color change agent and this colorant is applied to the hair, left on the hair for an exposure time of 10 to 45 minutes and then washed with water , and
  • a conditioning preparation (II) of a multicomponent packaging unit of the first subject of the invention is applied to the hair, left on the hair for an exposure time of 1 to 25 minutes and then washed with water.
  • a period of a few Minutes are up to a few hours, but preferably the process steps take place directly after one another or directly after completion of the rinsing process of the color change preparation or of the colorant.
  • Preference is given in each case to a process in which the color change preparation (I) is left on the hair for 10 to 45 minutes, preferably for 10 to 30 minutes. Preference is furthermore given to a process in which the hair is treated with the conditioning preparation (II) for 1 to 25, preferably for 5 to 20 minutes.
  • the preferred embodiments of the first subject of the invention also apply mutatis mutandis for the second subject of the invention.
  • a third object of the present invention is the cosmetic use of a multi-component packaging unit of the first subject of the invention for reducing hair damage in the color change of human hair.
  • a fourth object of the present invention is the cosmetic use of a multi-component packaging unit of the first subject of the invention for improving the washing fastness of dyeing human hair.
  • Carboxylates (15-25%), Lauryl Glucosides (10-20%), Aqua (Cognis)
  • Turpinal SL about 58-61% active substance; INCI name: Etidronic Acid, Aqua
  • Dyeing preparation (I) and oxidation preparation (III) were mixed in equal parts by weight to give a ready-to-use coloring agent.
  • For the dyeing process four times the amount of this application mixture was applied to hair strands (white, Euronaturhaar white (Kerling ENHw)) of about 0.7 g in weight. After a contact time of 30 min at 32 ° C, the tresses were washed with water and dried with a towel.
  • the dyed streaks were each treated with about 10 ml of the conditioning preparations IIa to IM. After an exposure time of 10 minutes at 32 ° C, the strands were rinsed with water and dried with a towel.
  • the tresses were then subjected to typical hair washes with a commercial shampoo.
  • AE V (AL) 2 + (Aa) 2 + (Ab) 2
  • ⁇ _, Aa and Ab represent the difference in L, a and b values, respectively, between untreated and untreated hair
  • the ⁇ value gives the distance between the AE values before and after the hair wash. It is therefore a measure of the washing resistance of the dyeing. The smaller the ⁇ value, the higher the washing resistance
  • Cystine is a component of human hair. Cystine shows at a wavelength of 6200 cm “1 to 5500 cm “ 1 typical oscillations in the NIR spectrum (near-infra-red). The disulfide bridge contained in cystine can be oxidatively broken during a hair treatment, and the resulting thiol is converted by further oxidation into the sulfonic acid group of cysteic acid. Thus, the hair changes in its cysteic acid content, which increases with greater oxidative damage. Cysteic acid shows in the NIR spectrum at a wavelength of 5020 cm "1 - 4020 cm “ 1 .
  • the decrease in cystine and the increase in cysteic acid therefore, is an indicator of hair damage that can be determined by NIR analysis.
  • a detailed description of the method can be found in Evaluation of Physical Properties of Human Hair by Diffuse Reflectance Near-Infrared Spectroscopy, Y. Miyamae, Y. Yamakawa and Y. Ozaki in Applied Spectroscopy, 2007, Vol. 61 (2), p. 212 ff.
  • the strands treated with the conditioning formulations of the present invention show a lower level of cysteic acid in the treated strands and therefore result in reduced hair damage.

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Abstract

L'invention concerne des unités d'emballage à plusieurs composants (kit d'éléments) pour la coloration de cheveux humains, comportant plusieurs composants emballés séparément les uns par rapport aux autres. Un contenant (A) contient une préparation de coloration (I) et un contenant (B) contient une préparation de conditionnement (II) qui renferme, dans un milieu support cosmétiquement acceptable, au moins 0,5 % en poids d'un agent de réduction.
PCT/EP2011/062034 2010-09-20 2011-07-14 Conservation de la couleur à l'aide d'agents de conditionnement contenant des agents de réduction WO2012038114A2 (fr)

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DE201010041035 DE102010041035A1 (de) 2010-09-20 2010-09-20 Farberhalt durch reduktionsmittelhaltige Konditioniermittel
DE102010041035.7 2010-09-20

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WO2012038114A3 WO2012038114A3 (fr) 2012-10-18

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Cited By (2)

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WO2016096283A1 (fr) * 2014-12-17 2016-06-23 Henkel Ag & Co. Kgaa Dérivés de résorcine dans des produits de transformation et de coloration simultanée de fibres kératiniques
CN111447875A (zh) * 2017-12-11 2020-07-24 汉高股份有限及两合公司 毛发状况检测装置和用于提供毛发状况信息的方法

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DE102013226074A1 (de) * 2013-12-16 2015-06-18 Henkel Ag & Co. Kgaa Mittel zur Haarfärbung mit intensiver Konditionierung

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US2776668A (en) * 1951-06-28 1957-01-08 Rubinstein Inc H Method and preparations for the permanent dyeing of keratinous material
US3242052A (en) * 1963-08-13 1966-03-22 Mead Johnson & Co Hair treatment with nu-acylcysteines
DE1253869B (de) * 1964-09-02 1967-11-09 Therachemie Chem Therapeut Verfahren und Mittel zur Erleichterung des Anfaerbens von Haaren mit direktziehendenFarbstoffen
WO2010063533A1 (fr) * 2008-12-05 2010-06-10 Unilever Nv Teinture de fibres kératiniques au moyen d'un prétraitement faisant intervenir un sel de fer et un fixateur de couleur comprenant un tanin hydrolysable

Non-Patent Citations (1)

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Title
Y. MIYAMAE, Y. YAMAKAWA, Y. OZAKI: "Evaluation of Physical Properties of Human Hair by Diffuse Reflectance Near-Infrared Spectroscopy", APPLIED SPECTROSCOPY, vol. 61, no. 2, 2007, pages 212 FF

Cited By (3)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
WO2016096283A1 (fr) * 2014-12-17 2016-06-23 Henkel Ag & Co. Kgaa Dérivés de résorcine dans des produits de transformation et de coloration simultanée de fibres kératiniques
US10307354B2 (en) 2014-12-17 2019-06-04 Henkel Ag & Co. Kgaa Resorcinol derivatives in compositions for simultaneous reshaping and coloring of keratinous fibers
CN111447875A (zh) * 2017-12-11 2020-07-24 汉高股份有限及两合公司 毛发状况检测装置和用于提供毛发状况信息的方法

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