WO2012038114A2

WO2012038114A2 - Colour preservation by means of conditioning agents containing reducing agents

Info

Publication number: WO2012038114A2
Application number: PCT/EP2011/062034
Authority: WO
Inventors: Konstantin Goutsis; Frank Janssen; Erik Schulze Zur Wiesche
Original assignee: Henkel Ag & Co. Kgaa
Priority date: 2010-09-20
Filing date: 2011-07-14
Publication date: 2012-03-29
Also published as: WO2012038114A3; DE102010041035A1

Abstract

The invention relates to multi-component packaging units (kit-of-parts) for changing the colour of human hair, comprising a plurality of components assembled separately from each other, wherein a container (A) contains a colour change preparation (I) and a container (B) contains a conditioning preparation (II), which contains at least 0.5 wt % of a reducing agent in a cosmetically compatible carrier medium.

Description

"Color retention by reducing agent-containing conditioning agents"

The present application relates to multi-component packaging units for gentle color change of human hair. Furthermore, multi-stage processes for the application of these multi-component packaging units in the color change of human hair are described.

The dyeing of hair has always been the desire of many consumers, as this is on the one hand by covering of graying hair a rejuvenated appearance and on the other hand by fashionable coloring an individual type change is possible. By brightening a much desired bleaching of the hair can be achieved.

To provide color-modifying cosmetic agents, in particular for keratin-containing fibers such as human hair, the skilled person knows various systems depending on the requirements of the color change.

For permanent, intensive colorations with corresponding fastness properties, so-called oxidation colorants are used. Such colorants contain oxidation dye precursors, subdivided into so-called developer components and coupler components which form the actual dyes with one another under the influence of oxidizing agents. The oxidation dyes are usually characterized by long-lasting dyeing results.

For temporary dyeings usually dyeing or tinting agents are used which contain so-called substantive dyes as a coloring component. These are dye molecules that attach directly to the substrate and do not require an oxidative process to form the paint. These two dyeing systems can also be combined to achieve specific nuances.

Finally, in particular natural shades can be achieved by air oxidation of so-called natural dye precursors based on indole derivatives.

The oxidizing agents contained in Blondiermitteln are able to lighten the hair fiber by the oxidative destruction of the hair dye melanin. For a moderate blonding effect, the use of hydrogen peroxide - optionally with the use of ammonia or other alkalizing agents - as the oxidant alone, is sufficient to achieve a stronger Bleaching effect is usually a mixture of hydrogen peroxide and peroxodisulfate salts and / or Peroxomonosulfatsalzen used.

In particular, dyeing systems with dye precursors are, however, in need of improvement in terms of their fastness properties, in particular to weather influences, hair washes or other influences, such as sweat or swimming pool water. In particular, a constant, but noticeable decrease in staining by multiple, repeated hair washes after the staining treatment is undesirable because the result obtained initially by the staining changed over time.

Oxidative color changes are almost inevitably accompanied by damage to the hair, since the remaining structural constituents of the hair are oxidatively damaged. This damage effect is further enhanced by the mostly alkaline reaction medium. Depending on the severity of the degree of damage, this ranges from rough, brittle and difficult to comb hair over a reduced resistance and tear resistance of the hair to hair breakage. Usually this damage is counteracted by the use of aftertreatment agents, in particular conditioning agents. However, such conditioning usually does not completely restore hair to the pretreatment state. Accordingly, there continues to be a need for effective post-treatment agents.

It was therefore the object of the present invention to provide novel methods for changing the color of hair, which allow dyeings which are superior in their authenticity, in particular their washing resistance to the usual marketed agents. In addition, the oxidative color change should lead to no or only a reduced hair damage as possible.

As part of the investigations on the above object, it has now surprisingly been found that a color change process followed by a reductive aftertreatment leads to markedly improved fastness properties in oxidative dyeings and reduced damage to the hair, in particular the fiber structure, in oxidative color change treatments in general.

A first subject of the present invention is therefore a multi-component packaging unit (kit of parts) for dyeing human hair, which comprises a plurality of separately prepared components, and which is characterized in that a) a container (A) a color change preparation (I) containing at least one color-modifying component in a cosmetically acceptable carrier medium, and b) a container (B) contains a conditioning preparation (II) containing in a cosmetically acceptable carrier medium at least 0.5 wt .-%, based on the total weight of the preparation (II), of a reducing agent.

The multi-component packaging unit can be essentially applied to human hair. Although the compositions according to the invention are primarily suitable for the color change of keratin-containing fibers, there is in principle no obstacle to their use also on keratinic fibers in general or other fields, such as the color change of other fiber materials. According to the invention, keratin-containing or keratinic fibers are understood to mean furs, wool, feathers, but in particular human hair.

A multi-component packaging unit comprises a plurality of individual components, which are packaged separately from each other, as well as a common packaging for these components, such as a folding box. Therein, the components are each provided separately in different containers. In the context of the present invention, container is understood to be a casing which is present in the form of an optionally reclosable bottle, a tube, a can, a sachet, a sachet or a similar wrapping. The wrapping material according to the invention are no limits. However, these are preferably casings made of glass or plastic.

In addition, the packaging unit can include application aids, such as combs, brushes or brushes, personal protective clothing, in particular disposable gloves, as well as instructions for use.

For the purposes of the present invention, a cosmetically acceptable carrier medium is a liquid or solid preparation which is suitable for stabilizing the active ingredients under storage conditions. The cosmetic carrier is preferably aqueous, alcoholic or aqueous-alcoholic. For the purpose of hair treatment, such carriers are for example creams, emulsions, gels or surfactant-containing foaming solutions, such as shampoos, foam aerosols or other preparations which are suitable for use on the hair.

An aqueous carrier according to the invention contains at least 30 wt .-%, in particular at least 50 wt .-% water, based on the total weight of the component. For the purposes of the present invention, alcoholic carriers are to be understood as meaning compositions comprising at least 50% by weight of a C ₄ -alcohol, based on the total weight of the component, in particular ethanol or isopropanol. In the context of the present invention, aqueous-alcoholic carriers are water-containing compositions containing 3 to 70% by weight of a C 1 -C 4 -alcohol, based on the total weight of the component, in particular Ethanol or isopropanol, to understand. The components according to the invention may additionally contain other organic solvents, for example 4-methoxybutanol, ethyldiglycol, 1, 2-propylene glycol, n-propanol, n-butanol, n-butylene glycol, glycerol, diethylene glycol monoethyl ether, and diethylene glycol mono-n-butyl ether. Preference is given to all water-soluble organic solvents.

The color change preparation (I) of the kit according to the invention contains as essential ingredient at least at least one oxidation dye precursor and / or at least one direct dye and / or at least one natural dye precursor and / or at least one bleach activator.

In the context of a first preferred embodiment of the present invention, the color change preparations (I) according to the invention comprise at least one oxidation dye precursor.

Preference is given to a combination of at least one oxidation dye precursor of the developer type and at least one oxidation dye precursor of the coupler type.

It may be preferred according to the invention to use as the developer component a p-phenylenediamine derivative or one of its physiologically acceptable salts. Particularly preferred p-phenylenediamines (1, 4-diaminobenzenes) are selected from p-phenylenediamine (1, 4-diaminobenzene), p-toluenediamine (1, 4-diamino-2-methylbenzene), 2-chloro-p-phenylenediamine , N, N-bis- (2-hydroxyethyl) -p-phenylenediamine, N-phenyl-p-phenylenediamine, 2- (2-hydroxyethyl) -p-phenylenediamine and N- (4-amino-3-methylphenyl) N- [3- (1H-imidazol-1-yl) propyl] amine and its physiologically acceptable salts.

It may further be preferred according to the invention to use as developer component compounds which contain at least two aromatic nuclei which are substituted by amino and / or hydroxyl groups. Preferred binuclear developer components are in particular Ν, Ν'-bis (2-hydroxyethyl) -N, N'-bis (4'-aminophenyl) -1, 3-diamino-propan-2-ol and bis (2-hydroxy -5- aminophenyl) -methane and their physiologically acceptable salts.

Furthermore, it may be preferred according to the invention to use as the developer component a p-amino phenol derivative or one of its physiologically tolerable salts. Preferred p-aminophenols are in particular p-aminophenol (4-aminophenol), N-methyl-p-aminophenol, and 4-amino-3-methylphenol and their physiologically tolerated salts.

Further, the developer component may be selected from o-aminophenol and its derivatives such as 2-amino-5-methylphenol and its physiologically acceptable salts. Furthermore, the developer component may be selected from heterocyclic developer components, such as the pyridine, pyrimidine, pyrazole, pyrazolo-pyrimidine derivatives and their physiologically acceptable salts. Preferred pyrimidine derivatives are in particular 2,4,5,6-tetraaminopyrimidine and 4-hydroxy-2,5,6-triaminopyrimidine and their physiologically acceptable salts. A preferred pyrazole derivative is 4,5-diamino-1- (2-hydroxyethyl) pyrazole and its physiologically acceptable salts.

As coupler components m-phenylenediamine derivatives, naphthols, resorcinol and resorcinol derivatives, pyrazolones and m-aminophenol derivatives are generally used. Suitable coupler substances are, in particular, 1-naphthol, 1, 5- and 2,7-dihydroxynaphthalene, 1-acetoxy-2-methoxynaphthalene, resorcinol, 4-chloro-resorcinol and 2-amino-3-hydroxypyridine and their physiologically tolerated salts ,

According to preferred coupler components are

(A) m-Aminophenol and its derivatives such as 5-amino-2-methylphenol, 3-amino-2-chloro-6-methylphenol, 5-amino-4-chloro-2-methylphenol, 5- (2'-hydroxyethyl ) - amino-2-methylphenol and 2,4-dichloro-3-aminophenol,

(B) o-aminophenol and its derivatives, for example 2-amino-5-ethylphenol,

(C) m-Diaminobenzene and its derivatives, such as 2,4-diaminophenoxyethanol, 1, 3-bis (2 ', 4'-diaminophenoxy) propane, 1-methoxy-2-amino-4- (2 '-hydroxyethylamino) benzene, 2,6-bis (2'-hydroxyethylamino) -1-methylbenzene, 2 - ({3 - [(2-hydroxyethyl) amino] -4-methoxy-5-methylphenyl} amino ) ethanol and 2 - ({3 - [(2-hydroxyethyl) amino] -2-methoxy-5-methylphenyl} amino) ethanol,

(D) o-diaminobenzene and its derivatives,

(E) di- or trihydroxybenzene derivatives such as, for example, resorcinol, 2-methylresorcinol and 1,2,4-trihydroxybenzene,

(F) pyridine derivatives such as, for example, 3-amino-2-methylamino-6-methoxypyridine, 2,6-diaminopyridine, 2,6-dihydroxy-3,4-dimethylpyridine, 2-amino-3-hydroxypyridine and 3,5- Diamino-2,6-dimethoxypyridine,

(G) naphthalene derivatives such as 1-naphthol, 2-methyl-1-naphthol, 1, 5 and 2,7-dihydroxynaphthalene,

(H) morpholine derivatives such as 6-hydroxybenzomorpholine,

(I) quinoxaline derivatives,

(J) pyrazole derivatives such as 1-phenyl-3-methylpyrazol-5-one,

(K) indole derivatives such as 6-hydroxyindole,

(L) pyrimidine derivatives or

(M) Methylenedioxybenzene derivatives such as 1- (2'-hydroxyethyl) amino-3,4-methylenedioxybenzene and their physiologically acceptable salts.

Particularly preferred coupler components according to the invention are 1-naphthol, 1, 5- and 2,7-dihydroxynaphthalene, 5-amino-2-methylphenol, 2-amino-3-hydroxypyridine, resorcinol, 4-chlororesorcinol, 2-methylresorcinol and 2, 6-Dihydroxy-3,4-dimethylpyridine and their physiologically acceptable salts.

The color change preparation (I) according to the invention optionally contains both the developer components and the coupler components preferably in an amount of 0.005 to 20 wt .-%, preferably 0.1 to 5 wt .-%, each based on their total weight. In this case, developer components and coupler components are generally used in approximately molar amounts to each other. Although the molar use has proven to be expedient, a certain excess of individual oxidation dye precursors is not disadvantageous, so that developer components and coupler components in a molar ratio of 1: 0.5 to 1: 3, in particular 1: 1 to 1: 2 , may be included.

In a further embodiment of the present invention, the color change preparations (I) according to the invention comprise at least one precursor of a naturally-analogous dye. As precursors of naturally-analogous dyes such indoles and indolines are preferably used which have at least one hydroxy or amino group, preferably as a substituent on the six-membered ring. Particularly preferred derivatives of indoline are 5,6-dihydroxyindoline, 2,3-dioxoindoline (isatin) and their physiologically acceptable salts. A particularly preferred derivative of indole is 5,6-dihydroxyindole and its physiologically acceptable salts.

The color change preparations (I) according to the invention optionally contain the indole or indoline derivatives preferably in an amount of 0.05 to 10 wt .-%, preferably 0.2 to 5 wt .-%, each based on their total weight.

In a further preferred embodiment, the color change preparations (I) according to the invention comprise at least one substantive dye. Direct dyes can be subdivided into anionic, cationic and nonionic substantive dyes. The substantive dyes are preferably selected from nitrophenylenediamines, nitroaminophenols, azo dyes, anthraquinones, indophenols and their physiologically acceptable salts.

Particularly suitable anionic direct dyes are 2,4-dinitro-1-naphthol-7-sulfonic acid disodium salt (Cl 10.316, Acid Yellow 1, Food Yellow No. 1), 2- (indan-1, 3-dione) 2-yl) - quinoline-x, x-sulfonic acid (mixture of mono- and disulfonic acid) (Cl 47.005, D & C Yellow No. 10, Food Yellow No. 13, Acid Yellow 3, Yellow 10), 5-hydroxy-1 - (4-sulfophenyl) -4 - [(4-sulfophenyl) azo] - pyrazole-3-carboxylic acid trisodium salt (Cl 19.140, Food Yellow No. 4, Acid Yellow 23), 3 - [(4-phenylamino) phenyl] azobenzenesulfonic acid, sodium salt (Cl 13.065, Ki406, Acid Yellow 36), 4 - [( 2-hydroxynaphth-1-yl) azo] -benzenesulfonic acid sodium salt (Cl 15.510; Acid Orange 7), 6-hydroxy-5 - [(4-sulfonaphth-1-yl) azo] -2,4-naphthalene-disulfonic acid trisodium salt (Cl 16.255; Ponceau 4R; Acid Red 18), 8-amino-1-hydroxy-2- (phenylazo) -3,6-naphthalenedisulfonic acid disodium salt (Cl 17,200, Acid Red 33, Red 33), N- [6- (Diethylamino) -9- (2,4-disulfophenyl) -3H-xanthen-3-ylidene] -N-ethylethanammonium hydroxide, inner salt, sodium salt (CI 45, 100; Acid Red 52), 2 ', 4 ', 5', 7'-tetrabromo-4,5,6,7-tetrachloro-3 ', 6'-dihydroxyspiro [isobenzofuran-1 (3H), 9' [9H] -xanthene] -3-one disodium salt (Cl 45.410; Acid Red 92), 3-hydroxy-4 - [(4-methyl-2-sulfonphenyl) azo] -2-naphthalenecarboxylic acid calcium salt (Cl 15.850: 1, Pigment Red 57: 1), 1, 4 -Bis [(2-sulfo-4-methylphenyl) amino] -9,10-anthraquinone disodium salt (Cl 6 1, 570; Acid Green 25), bis [4- (dimethylamino) phenyl] - (3,7-disulfo-2-hydroxynaphth-1-yl) carbenium inner salt, sodium salt (CI 44,090; Food Green No. 4; Acid Green 50), N- [4 - [(2,4-disulfophenyl) [4- [ethyl (phenylmethyl) amino) phenyl] methylene] -2,5-cyclohexadiene-1-yliden] -N-ethylbenzene methanaminium hydroxide, inner Salt, sodium salt (CI 42.080, Acid Blue 7), (2-sulfophenyl) di [4- (ethyl ((4-sulfophenyl) methyl) -amino) -phenyl] -carbenium-disodium salt betaine (CI 42.090, Acid Blue 9, FD & C Blue No. 1), 1-amino-4- (cyclohexylamino) -9,10-anthraquinone-2-sulfonic acid, sodium salt (Cl 62045, Acid Blue 62), 1-hydroxy-4 - [(4-methyl-2-) sulfophenyl) amino] -9,10-anthraquinone sodium salt (Cl 60.730, D & C Violet No. 2, Acid Violet 43), 5-amino-4-hydroxy-6 - [(4-nitrophenyl) -azo] -3- ( phenylazo) -2,7-naphthalenedisulfonic acid disodium salt (Cl 20,470, Acid Black 1), 3-hydroxy-4 - [(2-hydroxynaphth-1-yl) azo] -7-nitro-1-naphthalene sulfonic acid-chromium complex (3: 2) (Cl 15.71 1, Acid Black 52) and 3 ', 3 ", 4.5.5', 5", 6.7-Oct abromphenolsulfonphthalein (tetrabromophenol blue).

Preferred anionic substantive dyes are those having the international designations or trade names Acid Yellow 1, Acid Yellow 10, Acid Yellow 23, Acid Yellow 36, Acid Orange 7, Acid Red 33, Acid Red 52, Pigment Red 57: 1, Acid Blue 7 , Acid Green 50, Acid Violet 43, Acid Black 1, Acid Black 52 and tetrabromophenol blue known compounds.

Suitable cationic substantive dyes are, in particular, di [4- (diethylamino) phenyl] [4- (ethylamino) naphthyl] carbenium chloride (CI 42,595, Basic Blue 7), di [4- (dimethylamino) phenyl] [4- (phenylamino ) naphthyl] carbenium chloride (Cl 44.045; Basic Blue 26), 8-amino-2-bromo-5-hydroxy-4-imino-6 - [(3- (trimethylammonio) phenyl) amino] -1 (4H) - naphthalene chloride (Cl 56.059, Basic Blue No. 99), tri (4-amino-3-methylphenyl) carbenium chloride (Cl 42.520, Basic Violet 2), di (4-amino-phenyl) (4-amino-3 -methylphenyl) carbenium chloride (Cl 42.510 Basic Violet 14), 1 - [(4-aminophenyl) azo] -7- (trimethylammonio) -2-naphthol chloride (Cl 12.250, Basic Brown 16), 1 - [ (4-Amino-3-nitrophenyl) azo] -7- (trimethylammonio) -2-naphthol chloride (Cl 12.251, Basic Brown 17), 3 - [(4-amino-2,5-dimethoxyphenyl) azo] -N , N, N-trimethylbenzylaminium chloride (Cl 12,605, Basic Orange 69), 2 - [((4-dimethylamino) phenyl) azo] -1,3-dimethyl-1H-imidazolium chloride (Basic Red 51), 2 - hydroxy-1 - [(2-methoxyphenyl) azo] -7- (trimethylam mono) naphthalene chloride (Cl 12,245; Basic Red 76), 2- [4-aminophenyl] azo] -1,3-dimethyl-1H-imidazolium chloride (Basic Orange 31), 3-methyl-1-phenyl-4 - [(3- (trimethylammonio) phenyl) azo] pyrazol-5-one chloride (Cl 12,719, Basic Yellow 57), 1-methyl-4 - ((methylphenylhydrazono) methyl) pyridinium methylsulfate (Basic Yellow 87), 1- (2-morpholinopropylamino) -4 -hydroxy-9,10-anthraquinone methylsulfate, 4-formyl-1-methylquinolonium p-toluenesulfonate and substantive dyes containing a heterocycle having at least one quaternary nitrogen atom.

Suitable nonionic substantive dyes are in particular nonionic nitro and quinone dyes and neutral azo dyes.

Particularly suitable blue nitro dyes are 1,4-bis [(2-hydroxyethyl) amino] -2-nitrobenzene (HC Violet BS), 1- (2-hydroxyethyl) amino-2-nitro-4- [di (2-hydroxyethyl) amino] -benzene (HC Blue 2), 4- [di (2-hydroxyethyl) amino] -1 - [(2-methoxyethyl) amino] -2-nitrobenzene (HC Blue 1: 1), 4- [ethyl (2 - hydroxyethyl) amino] -1 - [(2-hydroxyethyl) amino] -2-nitrobenzene hydrochloride (HC Blue 12), 1- (2-hydroxyethyl) amino-2-nitro-4-N-ethyl-N- (2-hydroxyethyl) aminobenzene (HC Blue 15), 1-amino-3-methyl-4 - [(2-hydroxyethyl) amino] -6-nitrobenzene (HC Violet 1), 1- (3-hydroxypropylamino) -4- [di (2-hydroxyethyl) amino] -2-nitrobenzene (HC Violet 2).

Suitable red nitro dyes are in particular 1-amino-4 - [(2-hydroxyethyl) amino] -2-nitrobenzene (HC Red 7), 2-amino-4,6-dinitrophenol (pikramic acid) and their salts, 1, 4-diamino 2-nitrobenzene (Cl 76.070), 4-amino-2-nitro-diphenylamine (HC Red 1), 1-amino-4- [di (2-hydroxyethyl) -amino] -2-nitrobenzene hydrochloride (HC Red 13), 1-amino-4 - [(2-hydroxyethyl) amino] -5-chloro-2-nitrobenzene, 4-amino-1 - [(2-hydroxyethyl) amino] -2-nitrobenzene (HC Red 3 ), 4 - [(2-hydroxyethyl) amino] -3-nitrotoluene, 4-amino-3-nitrophenol, 4 - [(2-hydroxyethyl) amino] -3-nitrophenol, 4 - [(2-nitro) phenyl) amino] phenol (HC Orange 1), 1 - [(2-aminoethyl) amino] -4- (2-hydroxyethoxy) -2-nitrobenzene (HC Orange 2), 1-amino-5-chloro-4- [ (2,3-dihydroxypropyl) amino] -2-nitrobenzene (HC Red 10), 5-chloro-1,4- [di (2,3-dihydroxypropyl) amino] -2-nitrobenzene (HC Red 1 1), 2 - [(2-hydroxyethyl) amino] -4,6-dinitrophenol and its salts, 4-ethylamino-3-nitrobenzoic acid, 2 - [(4-amino-2-nitrophenyl) -amino] -benzoic acid, 2-chloro-6 ethylamino-4 -nitrophenol, 2-amino-6-chloro-4-nitrophenol, 4 - [(3-hydroxypropyl) amino] -3-nitrophenol (HC Red BN), 1, 2,3,4-tetrahydro-6-nitroquinoxaline, 6 -Hydroxy-5 - ((2-methoxy-5-methyl-4-sulfophenyl) azo) -2-naphthalenesulfonic acid (Curry Red).

Particularly suitable yellow nitro dyes are 1,2-diamino-4-nitrobenzene (Cl 76.020), 1 - [(2-hydroxyethyl) amino] -2-nitrobenzene (HC Yellow 2), 1- (2-hydroxyethoxy) -2- [ (2-hydroxyethyl) amino] -5-nitrobenzene (HC Yellow 4), 1-amino-2 - [(2-hydroxyethyl) amino] -5-nitrobenzene (HC Yellow 5), 4- [(2,3-dihydroxypropyl ) -amino] -3-nitro-1-trifluoromethylbenzene (HC Yellow 6), 2 - [(2-hydroxyethyl) amino] -1-methoxy-5-nitrobenzene, 2-amino-4-nitrophenol, 1 - (2-Hydroxyethoxy) -3-methylamino-4-nitrobenzene, 2,3- (dihydroxypropoxy) -3-methylamino-4-nitrobenzene, 3 - [(2-aminoethyl) amino] -1-methoxy-4-nitrobenzene hydrochloride (HC Yellow 9), 1-chloro-2,4-bis [(2-hydroxyethyl) amino] -5-nitro- benzene (HC Yellow 10), 2 - [(2-hydroxyethyl) amino] -5-nitrophenol (HC Yellow 1: 1), 1 - [(2'-ureidoethyl) amino] -4-nitrobenzene, 1-amino 4 - [(2-aminoethyl) amino] -5-methyl-2-nitrobenzene, 4 - [(2-hydroxyethyl) amino] -3-nitro-1-methylbenzene, 1-chloro-4 - [(2-hydroxyethyl) amino] -3-nitrobenzene (HC Yellow 12), 4 - [(2-hydroxyethyl) amino] -3-nitro-1-trifluoromethylbenzene (HC Yellow 13).

Suitable quinone dyes are, in particular, 1 - [(2-hydroxyethyl) amino] -4-methylamino-9,10-anthraquinone (Cl 61, 505, Disperse Blue 3), mixtures of 1,4-bis [(2-hydroxyethyl) amino] - anthra-9,10-quinone with 1 - [(2-hydroxyethyl) amino] -4 - [(3-hydroxypropyl) amino] anthra-9,10-quinone and 1,4-bis [(3-hydroxypropyl) amino ] anthra-9,10-quinone (Disperse Blue 377), 1,4-diamino-9,10-anthraquinone (Cl 61, 100, Disperse Violet 1), 1-amino-4- (methylamino) -9,10- anthraquinone (CI 61, 105, Disperse Violet 4, Solvent Violet No. 12), 2-hydroxy-1,4-naphthoquinone (Lawsone, CI 75,480, Natural Orange 6), 1,4-bis [(2,3-dihydroxypropyl ) amino] -9,10-anthracenedione (HC Blue 14).

Suitable neutral azo dyes are in particular 1 - [di (2-hydroxyethyl) amino] -3-methyl-4 - [(4-nitrophenyl) azo] benzene (Cl 11, 210, Disperse Red 17), 1 - [di (2 -hydroxyethyl) amino] -4 - [(4-nitrophenyl) azo] benzene (Disperse Black 9), 4 - [(4-aminophenyl) azo] -1 - [di (2-hydroxyethyl) amino] -3- methylbenzene (HC Yellow 7), 2,6-diamino-3 - [(pyridin-3-yl) azo] pyridine, 4 - [(4-nitrophenyl) azo] aniline (Cl 1, 005; Disperse Orange 3).

Furthermore, the color change preparations (I) according to the invention may also be naturally occurring dyes such as indigo (Indigoferia tinctoria), henna red (Lawsonia inermis), henna neutral or henna black. Other preferred natural dyes are included, for example, in chamomile flower, sandalwood, black tea, buckthorn bark, sage, bluewood, madder root, catechu and alkano root.

The color change preparations (I) according to the invention optionally contain the substantive dyes preferably in an amount of 0.01 to 20 wt .-%, based on their total weight.

In a further embodiment of the present invention, the color change preparations (I) according to the invention comprise at least one bleach activator. Additional bleach activators which may be used within the scope of this invention include peroxo compounds, furthermore compounds which give peroxycarboxylic acids and / or substituted perbenzoic acid under perhydrolysis conditions, carbonic acid derivatives, alkyl carbonates, carbamates, silyl carbonates and carbamates, and also cationic heterocycles.

The bleach activator is preferably selected from ammonium peroxodisulfate, alkali metal peroxodisulfates, ammonium peroxomonosulfate, alkali metal hydrogen peroxomonosulfates, alkali metal peroxodiphosphates and alkaline earth metal peroxides. Particularly preferred bleach activators are ammonium peroxodisulfate, potassium peroxodisulfate, sodium peroxodisulfate, potassium hydrogen peroxomonosulfate, potassium peroxodiphosphate, magnesium peroxide and barium peroxide.

Particularly preferred bleach activators according to the invention are inorganic salts selected from peroxomonosulfates and / or peroxodisulfates. Furthermore, it has proved to be particularly preferred in the work of the present invention, when the color change preparations (I) contain at least two different peroxodisulfates. Preferred peroxodisulfate salts are combinations of ammonium peroxodisulfate and potassium peroxodisulfate and / or sodium peroxodisulfate. A further embodiment of this subject of the invention is therefore characterized in that the color-changing preparation (I) contains at least one inorganic persulfate or peroxodisulfate salt, in particular ammonium peroxodisulfate, potassium peroxodisulfate and / or sodium peroxodisulfate. The peroxo compounds are contained in an amount of from 0.1 to 85% by weight, especially in an amount of from 0.5 to 75% by weight, based on the total weight of the color-changing preparation (I). The use of persulfate salts or peroxodisulfate salts is generally carried out in the form of an optionally dedusted powder, a paste or a molding pressed into the mold.

The color-changing preparations (I) may contain, instead of and / or in addition to the solid peroxo compounds, a further bleaching-force activator.

Bleaching-force activators which can be used are compounds which, under perhydrolysis conditions, give aliphatic peroxycarboxylic acids having preferably 1 to 10 C atoms, in particular 2 to 4 C atoms, and / or optionally substituted perbenzoic acid. Preference is given to tetraacetylethylenediamine (TAED), 1,5-diacetyl-2,4-dioxohexahydro-1,3,5-triazine (DADHT), tetraacetylglycoluril (TAGU), N-nonanoylsuccinimide (NOSI), n-nonanoyl or isononanoyl oxybenzenesulphonate (n- or i-NOBS), phthalic anhydride, triacetin, ethylene glycol diacetate and 2,5-diacetoxy-2,5-dihydrofuran.

As bleach activator of the carbonic acid derivatives type, it is preferred according to the invention to use carbonate salts or bicarbonate salts. These are preferably selected from the group of the ammonium, alkali metal (in particular sodium and potassium) and alkaline earth metal (in particular magnesium and calcium), carbonate salts or bicarbonate salts. Particularly preferred carbonate or bicarbonate salts are ammonium hydrogencarbonate, ammonium carbonate, sodium bicarbonate, sodium carbonate, potassium bicarbonate, potassium carbonate, magnesium carbonate and calcium carbonate.

In a further, preferred embodiment, at least one cationic pyridinium derivative can be present in the color change preparation (I) as bleaching-force activator. Preferred compounds are 4-acyl-pyridinium derivatives, 2-acylpyridinium derivatives and 3,4-dihydroiso- quinolinium derivatives. Particularly preferred are 2-acetyl-1-methylpyridinium p-toluenesulfonate and 4-acetyl-1-methylpyridinium p-toluenesulfonate and also N-methyl-3,4-dihydroisoquinoline-p-toluenesulfonate.

The bleach activators used in addition to or instead of peroxo compounds are preferably present in amounts of from 0.05 to 10% by weight, in particular in amounts of from 0.2 to 5% by weight, based in each case on the total weight of the color change preparation.

For the color-change preparations (I), it may be preferred if an oxidation-containing preparation is added to the preparation shortly before use. In particular, in the case of dyeing formulations (I) which contain at least one oxidation dye precursor and / or at least one bleach activator, this may be preferred.

A further embodiment of the first subject of the invention is therefore a multi-component packaging unit, which is characterized in that the multicomponent packaging unit comprises in a further container (C) additionally at least one oxidizing agent preparation (III) containing at least one oxidizing agent in a cosmetically acceptable carrier medium.

The oxidizing agent preparation (III) preferably contains hydrogen peroxide as the oxidizing agent. Preferably, hydrogen peroxide itself is used as the aqueous solution. Hydrogen peroxide can also be used in the form of a solid addition compound of hydrogen peroxide to inorganic or organic compounds such as sodium percarbamide, polyvinylpyrrolidinone n H ₂ 0 ₂ (n is a positive integer greater than 0), urea peroxide and melamine peroxide.

Hydrogen peroxide in the oxidizing agent preparation (III) is preferably 0.1 to 25% by weight, more preferably 1 to 20% by weight, and particularly preferably 4.5 to 9% by weight, each calculated to 100% Hydrogen peroxide and based on the total weight of the preparation included.

It is preferred to combine the color change preparation (I) and the oxidizing agent preparation (III) only immediately before use and then to apply the application mixture in a timely manner, preferably within a few minutes, to the hair to be treated. Preferably, color change preparation (I) and oxidant preparation (III) are mixed in a ratio by weight of from 3: 1 to 1: 3 with one another to give the ready-to-use colorant.

Oxidative dyeing processes on keratin fibers usually take place in an alkaline medium. To preserve the keratin fibers as well as the skin as much as possible, the setting is one too high pH but not desirable. For the purposes of the present invention, the pH values are pH values which were measured at a temperature of 22 ° C.

On the other hand, it may be useful for stability reasons to store certain ingredients at a neutral or slightly acidic pH and only at the time of application to suspend an alkaline environment. These ingredients include hydrogen peroxide. Consequently, the oxidizing agent preparation (III) preferably has a weakly acidic pH of 3 to 6.

In order to ensure a good dyeing performance, the color change preparations (I) preferably have an alkaline pH, preferably an alkaline pH of 8 to 12, in particular from 9 to 1 1, 5 and particularly preferably from 9.5 to 1 1.

A further, preferred embodiment of the first subject of the invention is therefore a multi-component packaging unit, which is characterized in that the color change preparation (I) contains at least one alkalizing agent. The alkalizing agent is preferably selected from the group consisting of ammonia, monoethanolamine, 2-amino-2-methylpropanol, triethanolamine, sodium hydroxide and potassium hydroxide.

The proportion of the alkalizing agent in the color-changing preparation (I) is preferably sufficient to bring the color-change preparation (I) and the oxidizing agent preparation (III) ready-to-use colorant to a preferably an alkaline pH of 8 to 12, especially 9 to 11.5 particularly preferably from 9.5 to 1 1, adjust.

For improved miscibility of the preparations (I) and (III) and better application properties of the resulting colorants, in particular the preparation (I) and / or optionally (III) preferably contains a surface-active compound, in particular a surfactant. In this case, anionic, nonionic, zwitterionic and amphoteric surfactants are particularly suitable.

A particularly preferred embodiment of the first subject of the invention is therefore a multicomponent packaging unit, which is characterized in that the color change preparation (I) additionally contains at least one anionic, nonionic, zwitterionic and / or amphoteric surfactant.

Suitable anionic surfactants in preparations according to the invention are all anionic surfactants suitable for use on the human body. These are characterized by a water-solubilizing, anionic group such as a carboxylate, sulfate, sulfonate or phosphate group and a lipophilic alkyl group of about 8 to 30 carbon atoms. In addition, glycol or polyglycol ether groups, ester, ether and amide groups and hydroxyl groups may be present in the molecule. Examples of suitable anionic Surfactants are linear and branched fatty acids having 8 to 30 carbon atoms (soaps), alkyl ether carboxylic acids, acylsarcosides, acyl taurides, acyl isethionates, sulfosuccinic acid mono-, dialkyl and sulfosuccinic monoalkylpolyoxyethylester, linear alkanesulfonates, linear α-olefinsulfonates, alkyl sulfates and alkyl ether sulfates and alkyl and / or alkenyl phosphates. Preferred anionic surfactants are alkyl sulfates, alkyl ether sulfates and alkyl ether carboxylic acids having in each case 10 to 18 C atoms in the alkyl group and up to 12 glycol ether groups in the molecule. Examples of such surfactants are the compounds with the INCI names Sodium Laureth Sulfate, Sodium Lauryl Sulfate, Sodium Myreth Sulfate or Sodium Laureth Carboxylate.

Zwitterionic surfactants are surface-active compounds which carry at least one quaternary ammonium group and at least one carboxylate, sulfonate or sulfate group in the molecule. Particularly suitable zwitterionic surfactants are the so-called betaines such as N-alkyl-N, N-dimethylammonium glycinates, for example cocoalkyldimethylammonium glycinate, N-acylaminopropyl-N, N-dimethylammonium glycinates, for example cocoacylaminopropyl-dimethylammonium glycinate, and Alkyl-3-carboxymethyl-3-hydroxyethyl imidazoline having in each case 8 to 18 carbon atoms in the alkyl or acyl group and the Kokosacyl- aminoethylhydroxyethylcarboxymethylglycinat. A preferred zwitterionic surfactant is the fatty acid amide derivative known by the INCI name Cocamidopropyl Betaine.

Amphoteric surfactants are understood as meaning those surface-active compounds which, apart from a C ₈ -C ₂₄ -alkyl or -acyl group in the molecule, contain at least one free amino group and at least one -COOH or -SO ₃ H group and are capable of forming internal salts , Examples of suitable amphoteric surfactants are N-alkylglycines, N-alkylpropionic acids, N-alkylaminobutyric acids, N-alkyliminodipropionic acids, N-hydroxyethyl-N-alkylamidopropylglycines, N-alkyltaurines, N-alkylsarcosines, 2-alkylaminopropionic acids and alkylaminoacetic acids each having about 8 to 24 C Atoms in the alkyl group. Particularly preferred amphoteric surfactants are N-cocoalkylaminopropionate, cocoacylaminoethylaminopropionate and C ₂ -C ₈ acylsarcosine.

Nonionic surfactants contain as hydrophilic group z. For example, a polyol group, a polyalkylene glycol ether group or a combination of polyol and polyglycol ether group. Such compounds are, for example, adducts of 4 to 50 moles of ethylene oxide and / or 0 to 5 moles of propylene oxide with linear and branched fatty alcohols, fatty acids and alkylphenols, each having 8 to 20 carbon atoms in the alkyl group, ethoxylated mono-, di- and Triglycerides, such as glycerol monolaurate + 20 ethylene oxide, and glycerol monostearate + 20 ethylene oxide, sorbitan fatty acid esters and adducts of ethylene oxide with sorbitan fatty acid esters such as the polysorbates (TWEEN 20, TWEEN 21, TWEEN 60, TWEEN 61, TWEEN 81), addition products of ethylene oxide onto fatty acid alkanolamides and fatty amines , as well as alkyl polyglycosides. Suitable nonionic surfactants are in particular C ₈ -C ₂₂ -alkyl mono- and -oligo- glycosides and their ethoxylated analogs and alkylene oxide addition products of saturated or unsaturated linear fatty alcohols with 2 to 30 mol of ethylene oxide per mole of fatty alcohol.

The anionic, nonionic, zwitterionic or amphoteric surfactants are used in amounts of from 0.1 to 50% by weight, preferably from 1 to 30% by weight and very particularly preferably from 1 to 25% by weight, based on the total amount of the dyeing preparation (I). used.

The conditioning preparation (II) of the multi-component packaging unit of the first subject of the invention contains at least 0.5% by weight of a reducing agent, based on the total weight of the preparation (II).

Suitable reducing agents are physiologically acceptable organic and inorganic reducing agents. Preference is given here to organic thiol compounds and inorganic sulfur salts.

An embodiment of the first subject of the invention is therefore a multicomponent packaging unit, which is characterized in that the conditioning preparation (II) contains as reducing agent an organic thiol compound and / or an inorganic sulfur salt.

It is preferred if the organic thiol compound of the conditioning preparation (II) still has at least one further functional group selected from an amino group, a hydroxy group or a carboxylic acid group. If the thiol compound additionally has a carboxylic acid group, this is most preferred.

The organic thiol compound can be used as an uncharged compound. If the thiol compound contains protonatable or deprotonatable structural units, it is also possible to use these as a physiologically acceptable salt or, if possible, as a zwitterionic inner salt.

In particular, carboxylic acid group-containing thiol compounds are preferably present in the form of the corresponding carboxylate compound. As Carboxylatgruppe a deprotonated carboxylic acid group is called, which is negatively charged after cleavage of the acidic proton. To neutralize the negative charge and the total charge balance must be a positively charged counterion. It is advantageous if the positive counterion is an alkali metal cation, in particular sodium (Na ⁺ ) or potassium (K ⁺ ), an ammonium ion (NH ₄ ⁺ ) or a positively charged organic ammonium ion (eg HO-CH ₂ -CH ₂ - NI-l3 ⁺ ). Exemplary and particularly suitable thiol compounds of the conditioning preparation (II) are cysteine, cysteine hydrochloride, thioglycolic acid, ammonium thioglycolate, ethanolamine thioglycolate and thiolactic acid.

An embodiment of the first subject of the invention is therefore a multicomponent packaging unit, which is characterized in that the conditioning preparation (II) contains as reducing agent at least one compound which is selected from the group formed by cysteine, thio-glycolic acid, thio-lactic acid and / or their physiologically acceptable salts.

Physiologically acceptable salts are the already mentioned deprotonation of carboxylic acids, but also cationic compounds in which in particular amine groups in the thiol compound by means of suitable acids, in particular mineral acids such as hydrochloric acid, hydrogen bromide or sulfuric acid, organic acids such as citric acid, tartaric acid or acetic acid , or organic sulfonic acids, such as p-toluenesulfonic acid, benzenesulfonic acid or methanesulfonic acid, are converted into the corresponding protonation.

Particularly preferred as organic thiol compound are thio-lactic acid and / or their cosmetically acceptable salts.

As the reducing agent of the conditioning preparation (II), an inorganic sulfur salt can be further used. According to the invention, a sulfur salt is to be understood as meaning a salt which contains at least one sulfur atom in its empirical formula. Sulfur salts suitable as reducing agents are in particular sulfides (S ^{2 ~} ), sulfites (S0 ₃ ^{2 ~} ), dithionites (S ₂ 0 ₄ ^{2 ~} ) and thiosulfates (S ₂ 0 ₃ ^{2 ~} ), preferably with ammonium, alkali metal or alkaline earth metal cations for charge balance. Ammonium and sodium salts are preferred here.

An embodiment of the first subject of the invention is a multicomponent packaging unit which is characterized in that the conditioning preparation (II) contains as reducing agent at least one compound selected from sodium sulfide, sodium sulfite, sodium thiosulfate and / or sodium dithionite.

Particularly preferred as the inorganic sulfur salt is sodium dithionite.

The conditioning preparation (II) preferably contains the reducing agent (s) in a proportion by weight of from 0.5 to 25% by weight, preferably from 0.7 to 15% by weight, particularly preferably from 1.0 to 10% by weight, in each case based on the total weight of the preparation (II). The conditioning preparation preferably contains further additives which are suitable for conditioning and improving the care state of the hair.

These include cationic, in particular cationic, surfactants. A preferred embodiment of the present invention is characterized in that the conditioning preparation (I) contains at least one cationic surfactant.

Suitable cationic surfactants are, for example, quaternized fatty acid esters of aminoalkanols and quaternized fatty acid amides of diaminoalkanes. Examples of such surfactants are the commercial products Schercoquat BAS, Lexquat AMG-BEO, Akypoquat 131 or Incroquat Behenyl HE.

Further suitable cationic surfactants are, for example, esterquats, such as the products Armocare VGH-70, an N, N-bis (2-palmitoyloxyethyl) dimethylammonium chloride, and also Dehyquart F-75, Dehyquart C-4046, Dehyquart L80, Dehyquart F-30, Dehyquart AU-35, Rewoquat WE18, Rewoquat WE38 DPG and Stepantex VS 90. are examples of such esterquats.

Further cationic surfactants suitable according to the invention are monoalkyltrimethylammonium salts, such as, for example, compounds cetyltrimethylammonium chloride, cetyltrimethylammonium bromide, cetyltrimethylammonium methosulfate, stearyltrimethylammonium chloride, behenyltrimethylammonium chloride, behenyltrimethylammonium bromide and behenyltrimethylammonium methosulfate and dialkyldimethylammonium salts, for example distearyldimethylammonium chloride

Further cationic surfactants which are suitable according to the invention are quaternizable or cationic alkylamidoamines. Quaternizable alkylamines include Witcamine 100 (INCI name: cocamidopropyl dimethylamine), Incromine BB (INCI name: behenamidopropyl dimethylamine), Mackine 401 (INCI name: isostearylamidopropyl dimethylamine) and other types of mackine, and Adogen S18V (INCI). Name: stearylamidopropyl dimethylamine), suitable permanent cationic aminoamines include Rewoquat RTM 50 (INCI name: Ricinoleamidopropyltrimonium Methosulfate), Empigen CSC (INCI name: Cocamidopropyltrimonium chloride), Swanol Lanoquat DES-50 (INCI name: Quatemium-33) , Rewoquat UTM 50 (Undecyleneamidopropyltrimonium Methosulfate).

Finally, cationic imidazoline compounds are suitable as cationic surfactant according to the invention. These include, for example, the compounds with the INCI names Quaternium-91 or Quaternium-87.

The anion of all of the previously described cationic compounds is selected from the physiologically acceptable anions. Exemplary of these are the halide ions, fluoride, chloride, Bromide, sulfate of the general formula RSO ₃ ^" , wherein R has the meaning of saturated or unsaturated alkyl radicals having 1 to 4 carbon atoms, or anionic organic acid residues such as maleate, fumarate, oxalate, tartrate, citrate, lactate or acetate, called.

The abovementioned cationic surfactants can be used individually or in any desired combinations with each other, amounts of between 0.01% and 20% by weight, preferably in amounts of from 0.01% to 10% by weight, and very particularly preferably in amounts of 0, 1 to 7.5 wt .-% included. The very best results are obtained with amounts of 0.1 to 5 wt .-%, each based on the total composition of the conditioning (II).

Furthermore, in a further preferred embodiment, the conditioning preparation contains at least one silicone.

Preferred silicones are selected from the group of dimethicones and / or the group of cyclomethicones and / or the group of dimethiconols and / or the group of amino-functional silicones. According to the invention, the compositions according to the invention more preferably contain no cyclomethicones in addition to the selected silicones.

Examples of suitable dimethicones are the commercial products designated Dow Corning 1664. Suitable dimethiconols are, for example, the commercial products Dow Corning 1-1254 Fluid, Dow Corning 2-9023 Fluid, Dow Coming 2-9026 Fluid, Abil OSW, Dow Coming 1401 Fluid, Dow Corning 1403 Fluid, Dow Corning 1501 Fluid, Dow Corning 1784 HVF Emulsion, Dow Corning 9546 Silicone Elastomer Blend, SM555, SM2725, SM2765, SM2785, Wacker-Belsil CM 1000, Wacker-Belsil CM 3092, Wacker-Belsil CM 5040, Wacker Belsil DM 3096, Wacker-Belsil DM 31 12 VP, Wacker-Belsil DM 8005 VP, Wacker-Belsil DM 60081 VP. Examples of amino-functional silicones which are suitable according to the invention are cationic silicone oils, such as, for example, the commercially available products Dow Corning 929 Emulsion, DC 2-2078, DC 5-71 13, SM-2059 and SLM-55067, and also trimethylsilylamodimethicone, such as Q2-7224. Other suitable aminofunctional silicones according to the invention are amodimethicones, for example bis (C ₃ -C ₅ -alkoxy) PG amodimethicone (commercial product DC 8500) and trideceth-9 PG-amodimethicone (commercial product Silcare Silicone SEA). Further suitable amino-functional silicones are, for example, the commercial products SilSense Q Plus, Dow Coming 5-71 13 (Silicone Quaternium-16), Dow Corning 5-7070 (Silicone Quaternium-16 / Glycidoxy Dimethicone Crosspolymer), Silquat Polyether Fatty Quats Type Siltech AD (Silicone Quaternium-8), Silquat AC and Silquat D208, silicones of the SilCare Silicone SEA type, and Abilquat T-60 (Silicone Quaternium-22) and Abil Quat 3270, 3272 and 3474 (Quaternium-80). Conditioning compositions (II) which are preferred according to the invention are characterized in that, based on their weight, they contain 0.01 to 10% by weight, preferably 0.01 to 8% by weight, particularly preferably 0.1 to 7.5% by weight. % and in particular 0.2 to 5 wt .-% silicone (s) included.

Furthermore, the conditioning formulations (II) according to the invention may contain at least one ester oil. Preferred ester oils are isopropyl myristate (Rilanit IPM), monosulfonic acid C ₆ -C ₈ alkyl ester (Cetiol SN), 2-ethylhexyl palmitate (Cegesoft 24), stearic acid 2-ethylhexyl ester (Cetiol 868), cetyl oleate, glycerol tricaprylate, coconut fatty alcohol caprinate caprylate (Cetiol LC), n-butyl stearate, oleyl erucate (Cetiol J 600), isopropyl palmitate (Rilanit IPP), oleyl oleate (Cetiol), lauric acid hexyl ester (Cetiol A), di-n-butyl adipate (Cetiol B), myristyl myristate (Cetiol MM ), Cetearyl isononanoate (Cetiol SN), oleic acid decyl ester (Cetiol V). Also suitable are ester oils alkoxylated with ethylene oxide, propylene oxide, or mixtures of ethylene oxide and propylene oxide, such as PPG-3 benzyl ether myristate (Crodamol STS). Further suitable ester oils are dicarboxylic acid esters such as di-n-butyl adipate, di- (2-ethylhexyl) adipate, di- (2-ethylhexyl) succinate and di-isotrixyl oxalate and diol esters such as ethylene glycol dioleate, ethylene glycol di-isotridecanoate, Propylene glycol di (2-ethylhexanoate), propylene glycol diisostearate, propylene glycol di-pelargonate, butanediol diisostearate, neopentyl glycol dicaprylate. Likewise suitable as ester oil are symmetrical, unsymmetrical or cyclic esters of carbonic acid with fatty alcohols, for example glycerol carbonate or dicaprylyl carbonate (Cetiol CC) and triflic acid esters of saturated and / or unsaturated linear and / or branched fatty acids with glycerol, and fatty acid partial glycerides, such as monoglycerides, diglycerides and their technical mixtures.

The ester oils are used in the conditioning formulations (II) according to the invention in an amount of from 0.01 to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.01 to 10.0% by weight, particularly preferably from 0.01 to 7.5% by weight. , most preferably from 0.1 to 5.0 wt .-% used.

Another particularly advantageous ingredient is at least one cationically charged polymeric compound in the conditioning preparation (II). Cationic polymers are polymers which have in the main and / or side chain a group which is "temporarily" or "permanently" cationic.

Suitable polymers having quaternary amine groups are, for example, the polymers described in the CTFA Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary under the names Polyquaternium, such as methylvinylimidazolium chloride / vinylpyrrolidinone copolymer (Polyquaternium-16), quaternized vinylpyrrolidinone / dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate copolymer (Polyquaternium-11, trade names Gafquat 755 N and 734). Also suitable are copolymers of vinylpyrrolidinone and Imidazoliminmethochlorid (Luviquat HM 550) and vinylpyrrolidinone / Methacrylamidopropyltri- methylammonium chloride copolymers (Gafquat HS 100). Likewise suitable are homopolymers, such as poly (methacryloyloxyethyltrimethylammonium chloride) (INCI name Polyquaternium-37) with the trade names Rheocare CTH, Synthalen CR, Salcare SC 95 and Salcare SC 96.

Further preferred cationic polymers are cationic alkylpolyglycosides, cationized honey, for example the commercial product Honeyquat 50, polymeric dimethyldiallylammonium salts and their copolymers with esters and amides of acrylic acid and methacrylic acid, such as Merquatl OO (poly (dimethyldiallylammonium chloride)) and Merquat 550 (dimethyldiallylammonium chloride-acrylamide Copolymer), vinylpyrrolidinone-vinylimidazolium methochloride copolymers, such as, for example, Luviquat FC 370, FC 905 and HM 552, quaternized polyvinyl alcohol, vinylpyrrolidinone-vinylcaprolactam-acrylate terpolymers, such as Aquaflex SF 40, and those known under the names Polyquaternium-2, Polyquaternium-17, Polyquaternium-18 and Polyquaternium-27 known polymers with quaternary nitrogen atoms in the polymer main chain,

Other suitable cationic polymers may be derived from natural polymers, in particular cationic derivatives of polysaccharides, for example cationic derivatives of cellulose, starch or guar. Also suitable are chitosan and chitosan derivatives.

Examples of cationic celluloses are the polymers with the trade names Polymer JR 400 (INCI name Polyquaternium-10), Polymer LM-200 (INCI name Polyquaternium-24), Celquat H 100 and Celquat L 200 (Polyquaternium-4) and SoftCAT SX 400 X, SL 5, SL 100 and SK-MH (Polyquaternium-67).

Suitable cationic guar derivatives are sold, for example, under the trade names Jaguar, N-Hance, Cosmedia Guar and AquaCat (INCI name Guar Hydroxypropyltrimonium Chloride).

Another particularly suitable cationic natural polymer is chitosan, optionally also its quaternized, alkylated and / or hydroxyalkylated derivatives. Examples of suitable commercial products are Flonac or Kytamer PC and Hydagen CMF, Hydagen HCMF and Chitolam NB / 101.

Cationic polymers preferred according to the invention are cationic cellulose derivatives, chitosan and its derivatives, in particular the commercial products PolymerJR 400, Hydagen HCMF and Kytamer PC, cationic guar derivatives and cationic honey derivatives, in particular the commercial product Honeyquat 50. The particularly preferred cationic polymeric compounds are Polyquaternium-37, Polyquaternium-10, Polyquaternium-1 1 and Polyquaternium-16.

Furthermore, cationized protein hydrolysates can be used as cationic polymers according to the invention, the underlying protein hydrolyzate being derived from the animal, for example from Collagen, milk or keratin, from the plant, for example from wheat, corn, rice, potatoes, soy or almonds, marine life forms, such as fish collagen or algae, or biotechnologically derived protein hydrolysates may originate. Preference is given to those cationic protein hydrolyzates whose underlying protein content has a molecular weight of 100 to 25,000 daltons, preferably 250 to 5000 daltons.

The cationic polymers are preferably in the conditioning formulations (II) in an amount of 0.01 to 5 wt .-%, preferably 0.01 to 3.0 wt .-% and particularly preferably in an amount of 0.05 to 3, 0 wt .-%, each based on the total weight of the conditioning preparation containing.

Likewise, the conditioning formulations (II) may contain amphoteric polymers. Examples of amphoteric polymers are terpolymers of dimethyldiallylammonium chloride, sodium acrylate and acrylamide (Polyquaternium-39, trade names Merquat Plus 3300 and Merquat Plus 3330), copolymers of diallyldimethylammonium chloride and acrylic acid (INCI name Polyquaternium-22), such as, for example Commercial products Merquat 280 or Merquat 281.

The amphoteric polymers are contained in the agents according to the invention preferably in proportions by weight of 0.01 to 10 wt .-%, preferably 0.01 to 5 wt .-%, each based on the total agent.

Furthermore, cosmetic oils may additionally be used in the conditioning preparation. These oil bodies preferably have a melting point of less than 50.degree. C., more preferably less than 40.degree. C. and more preferably less than 30.degree.

Suitable oils are, for example, vegetable oils, such as amaranth seed oil, apricot kernel oil, argan oil, avocado oil, babassu oil, cottonseed oil, borage seed oil, camelina oil, thistle oil, peanut oil, pomegranate seed oil, grapefruit seed oil, hemp oil, hazelnut oil, elderflower seed oil, currant seed oil, jojoba oil, cocoa butter, the liquid ones Proportions of coconut oil, linseed oil, macadamia nut oil, corn oil, almond oil, marula oil, evening primrose oil, olive oil, orange oil, palm oil, peach kernel oil, rapeseed oil, rice oil, sea buckthorn oil, sea buckthorn seed oil, sesame oil, shea butter, soybean oil, sunflower oil, grapeseed oil, walnut oil, wheat germ oil or wild rose oil, others Triglyceride oils such as the liquid fractions of beef tallow and synthetic triglyceride oils, further liquid paraffin oils, isoparaffin oils and synthetic hydrocarbons and di-n-alkyl ethers having a total of 12 to 36 carbon atoms, in particular 12 to 24 carbon atoms, such as di-n-octyl - ether (H andelene product cetiol OE), di-n-decyl ether, di-n-nonyl ether, di-n-undecyl ether, di-n-decyl ether, n-hexyl n-octyl ether, n-octyl n-decyl ether, n-decyl n-undecyl ether, n-undecyl n-dodecyl ether, n-hexyl n-undecyl ether, di-tert-butyl ether, di-isopentyl ether, di-3-ethyl decyl ether, tert-butyl n-octyl ether, isobutyl Pentyl n-octyl ether and 2-methyl pentyl n-octyl ether. The amount used of the natural and synthetic cosmetic oil bodies in the conditioning formulations (II) used according to the invention is preferably from 0.1 to 30% by weight, based on the total agent, preferably from 0.1 to 20% by weight, and in particular 0.1 to 15% by weight.

In many cases, the conditioning agents contain at least one surface-active substance, wherein in principle both anionic and zwitterionic, ampholytic, nonionic and cationic surface-active substances are suitable. These compounds have already been explained in connection with the dyeing formulations (I).

Further preferred conditioning formulations (II) of the first subject of the invention contain at least one carbohydrate, a sugar alcohol or sugar. Monosaccharides, disaccharides, trisaccharides and oligosaccharides, aminodeoxy sugars, deoxysugars and thiosugars are particularly advantageous here. Examples include sorbitol, inositol, mannitol, tetrite, pentite, hexite, threitol, erythritol, adonite, arabitol, xylitol, dulcitol, erythrose, threose, arabinose, ribose, xylose, lyxose, glucose, galactose, mannose, allose, altrose, gulose , Idose, talose, fructose, sorbose, psicose, tegatose, deoxyribose, glucosamine, galactosamine, rhamnose, digitoxose, thioglucose, sucrose, trehalose, lactose, maltose, cellobiose, melibiose, gestiobiose, rutinose, raffinose and cellotriose. Regardless of the type of carbohydrate used, compositions according to the invention are preferred which, based on the weight of the composition, contain 0.01 to 5% by weight, preferably 0.05 to 4% by weight, particularly preferably 0.05 to 3.5 Wt .-% and in particular 0.1 to 2.5 wt .-% of carbohydrates.

Preferred conditioning formulations (II) of the first subject of the invention further contain vitamins, provitamins or vitamin precursors in the compositions. The compositions according to the invention preferably contain vitamins, provitamins and vitamin precursors from groups A, B, E, F and H. Vitamin B and biotin are very particularly preferred.

The conditioning preparations (II) are preferably in liquid or pasty form, in each case preferably on an aqueous basis. The pH of this formulation may be adjusted to a value of pH 2 to pH 11.

For the purposes of the present invention, the pH values are pH values which were measured at room temperature (about 22 ° C.). For the adjustment of the pH, common acidifying and alkalizing agents are known to the person skilled in the art. The alkalizing agents which can be used for adjusting the pH are typically selected from ammonia, inorganic salts, in particular the alkali and alkaline earth metals, organic alkalizing agents, in particular especially alkanolamines, amines and basic amino acids. Acidifying agents which are preferred according to the invention are indulgent acids, such as lactic acid, citric acid, acetic acid, malic acid or tartaric acid, dilute mineral acids and their acid-reacting salts in water and organic phosphonic or sulfonic acids. To stabilize the pH further appropriate pH buffer systems can be added.

Within the scope of one embodiment, it is particularly preferred if the conditioning preparations (II) have a neutral to acidic pH of from pH 2 to 7, in particular from pH 2.5 to 6.

The components (I), (II) and, if appropriate, (III) of the multicomponent packaging unit of the first subject of the invention may contain further cosmetic active substances and auxiliary substances.

The ready-to-use preparations preferably have a viscosity which makes it possible for the agent to be applied well on the one hand and on the other hand to have such a flow behavior that it guarantees the agent a sufficiently long action time on the weft.

Thus, it has proved to be advantageous if the components contain at least one thickener for adjusting the viscosity of the preparations. With regard to these thickeners, there are no fundamental restrictions. Both organic and purely inorganic thickening agents can be used.

Suitable additional thickening agents are

nonionic, synthetic polymers, such as vinylpyrrolidinone / vinyl acrylate copolymers, polyvinylpyrrolidinone, polyethylene glycols and polysiloxanes;

anionic, synthetic polymers, such as, for example, polyacrylic acids or crosslinked polyacrylic acids;

cationic, synthetic polymers, such as quaternized cellulose ethers, quaternary group polysiloxanes, dimethyldiallylammonium chloride polymers, acrylamide-dimethyldiallylammonium chloride copolymers, diethyl sulfate-quaternized dimethylaminoethylmethacrylate-vinylpyrrolidinone copolymers, vinylpyrrolidinone-imidazolinium methochloride copolymers and quaternized polyvinylalcohol ;

naturally occurring thickeners such as nonionic guar gums, scleroglucan gums or xanthan gums, gum arabic, ghatti gum, karaya gum, gum tragacanth, carrageenan gum, agar, locust bean gum, pectins, alginates, starch fractions and derivatives such as amylose, Amylopectin and dextrins, as well as cellulose derivatives such as methylcellulose, carboxyalkylcelluloses and hydroxyalkylcelluloses;

nonionic, fully synthetic polymers, such as polyvinyl alcohol or polyvinylpyrrolidinone; such as inorganic thickening agents, especially phyllosilicates such as bentonite, especially smectites such as montmorillonite or hectorite.

Furthermore, the cosmetic compositions according to the invention may comprise further active ingredients, auxiliaries and additives, such as natural or synthetic waxes, such as solid paraffins or isoparaffins, carnauba waxes, beeswaxes, candelilla waxes, ozokerites, ceresin, sunflower wax, fruit waxes such as apple wax or citrus wax, microwaxes PE or PP,

Purine and purine derivatives such as purine, adenine, guanine, uric acid, hypoxanthine, 6-purinethiol, 6-thioguanine, xanthine, caffeine, theobromine or theophylline,

Carnitine and carnitine derivatives, such as carnitine, carnitine tartrate, carnitine magnesium citrate, acetylcarnitine, betalain, 1,1-dimethyl-proline, choline, choline chloride, choline bitartrate, choline dihydrogen citrate and Ν, Ν, Ν-trimethylglycine,

Taurine and taurine derovates, in particular 2-aminoethanesulfonic acid and N-monomethyltaurine, Ν, Ν-dimethyltaurine, tauryllysylate, taurine tartrate, taurine ornithine, lysyl taurine, ornithiotentaurine, taurocholic acid and hypotaurine,

Protein hydrolysates, in particular animal protein hydrolysates, such as elastin, collagen, keratin, silk and milk protein protein hydrolysates, vegetable protein hydrolysates, such as soybean, almond, pea, Moringa, potato and wheat protein hydrolysates, and maritime Protein hydrolysates such as fish or algae collagen hydrolyzates and shell hydrolyzate protein hydrolysates, plant extracts such as green tea, oak bark, stinging nettle, witch hazel, hops, henna, chamomile, burdock, horsetail, hawthorn, linden, almond, aloe vera , Spruce needle, horse chestnut, sandalwood, juniper, coconut, mango, apricot, acai berry, cranberry, lime, wheat, kiwi, melon, orange, grapefruit, sage, rosemary, birch, mallow, valerian, meadowfoam, quenelle, yarrow, thyme , Lemon balm, hominy, coltsfoot, marshmallow, meristem, ginseng, coffee, cocoa, Moringa, ginger root, Ayurvedic Pfla nzenextracts and echinacea,

Fatty alcohols, in particular saturated, mono- or polyunsaturated, branched or unbranched fatty alcohols with C ₆ -C ₃₀ -, preferably C ₀ -C ₂₂ - and very particularly preferably C 12 -C ₂₂ carbon atoms, such as oleyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, Lauryl alcohol, linoleyl alcohol, and behenyl alcohol, as well as Guerbet alcohols, fatty acids such as 2-ethylhexanoic acid, isotridecanoic acid, myristic acid, palmitic acid, palmitoleic acid, stearic acid, isostearic acid, oleic acid, linoleic acid, linolenic acid, behenic acid and erucic acid and their technical mixtures,

Biochinones, especially ubiquinone and coenzyme Q-10,

UV-protection filters with a negative effect in the range of UV-A, UV-B and UV-C light both as water-soluble and oil-soluble filters, Cellulose ethers, such as hydroxypropylcellulose, hydroxyethylcellulose and methylhydroxypropylcellulose, as marketed, for example, under the trademarks Culminal and Benecel (AQUALON) and Natrosol types (Hercules).

Starch and its derivatives, in particular starch ethers, for example Structure XL (National

Starch) or Structure ZEA, multifunctional, salt-tolerant starches;

direct dyes,

Structurants such as maleic acid and lactic acid,

Swelling agents such as urea, allantoin, carbonates or hydantoin,

Dimethylisosorbide and cyclodextrins,

Dyes for staining the agent,

Anti-dandruff agents such as Piroctone Olamine, Zinc Omadine and Climbazole,

Complexing agents such as EDTA, HEDP, EDDS, NTA, β-alaninediacetic acid and phosphonic acids, opacifiers such as latex, styrene / PVP and styrene / acrylamide copolymers

Pearlescing agents such as ethylene glycol mono- and distearate and PEG-3-distearate,

pigments

Stabilizing agent for hydrogen peroxide and other oxidizing agents,

Propellants such as propane-butane mixtures, N ₂ O, dimethyl ether, C0 ₂ and air,

antioxidants

Perfume oils, fragrances and fragrances.

With regard to further optional components and the amounts of these components used, reference is expressly made to the relevant manuals known to the person skilled in the art. The choice of these other substances will be made by those skilled in the art according to the desired properties of the agents. The additional active ingredients and auxiliaries are preferably used in the agents according to the invention in amounts of from 0.0001 to 25% by weight, in particular from 0.0005 to 15% by weight, based on the total weight of the components.

A preferred embodiment of the first subject of the invention is a multi-component packaging unit, comprising three separately manufactured components, which is characterized in that

i) the first color-changing preparation (I) in a cosmetically acceptable carrier medium contains at least one oxidation dye precursor and at least one alkalizing agent selected from ammonia, monoethanolamine, 2-amino-2-methylpropanol, triethanolamine, sodium hydroxide and potassium hydroxide,

ii) the second oxidation preparation (III) contains a cosmetically acceptable carrier medium hydrogen peroxide in a proportion of 0.01 to 12 wt .-%, based on the total weight of component (III), and

iii) the conditioning preparation (II) in a cosmetically acceptable carrier medium at least one reducing agent selected from thio-lactic acid, thio-glycolic acid, cysteine and / or their cosmetically acceptable salts and / or selected from sodium sulfide, sodium sulfite, sodium thiosulfate and / or sodium dithionite.

A further preferred embodiment of the first subject of the invention is a multi-component packaging unit, comprising three separately manufactured components, which is characterized in that

iii) the conditioning preparation (II) in a cosmetically acceptable carrier medium at least one reducing agent selected from thio-lactic acid, thio-glycolic acid, cysteine and / or their cosmetically acceptable salts.

iii) the conditioning preparation (II) in a cosmetically acceptable carrier medium at least one reducing agent selected from sodium sulfide, sodium sulfite, sodium thiosulfate and / or sodium dithionite containing.

i) the first color-changing preparation (I) in a cosmetically acceptable carrier medium contains at least one oxidation dye precursor and at least one alkalizing agent selected from ammonia, monoethanolamine, 2-amino-2-methylpropanol, triethanolamine, sodium hydroxide and potassium hydroxide, ii) the second oxidation preparation (III) contains a cosmetically acceptable carrier medium hydrogen peroxide in a proportion of 0.01 to 12 wt .-%, based on the total weight of component (III), and

iii) the conditioning preparation (II) in a cosmetically acceptable carrier medium at least one reducing agent selected from thio-lactic acid and / or their cosmetically acceptable salts.

ii) the conditioning preparation (II) in a cosmetically acceptable carrier medium as a reducing agent at least ammonium thiolactate.

iii) the conditioning preparation (II) in a cosmetically acceptable carrier medium as a reducing agent at least sodium dithionite.

The components of the multicomponent packaging unit of the first subject of the invention are applied to the color change of keratinic fibers, in particular for the reduction of hair damage and to improve the color content, individually and successively. If multicomponent packaging unit comprises an oxidation preparation (III), it is preferred according to the invention, if first the color change preparation (I) with the oxidizing agent preparation (III) to an application ready immediately before use Color change agent is mixed and this is applied to the hair to be dyed. After completion of the color change, the conditioning preparation (II) is then applied.

A second object of the present invention is therefore a process for dyeing human hair, which is characterized in that

in a first step, a color change preparation (I) of a multicomponent packaging unit of the first subject of the invention is applied to the hair,

is left on the hair for a period of 10 to 45 minutes and then washed with water, and

in a second step, a conditioning preparation (II) of a multicomponent packaging unit of the first subject of the invention is applied to the hair, left on the hair for an exposure time of 1 to 25 minutes and then washed with water.

During the exposure time of the agents on the fiber, it may be advantageous to support the brightening process by supplying heat. An exposure phase at room temperature is also according to the invention. In particular, the temperature during the exposure time between 20 ° C and 40 ° C, in particular between 25 ° C and 38 ° C. The agents give good treatment results even at physiologically compatible temperatures of below 45 ° C.

After the end of the reaction time, remaining preparations are rinsed out of the hair with an aqueous preparation, in particular with water itself or with a surfactant-containing cleaning agent. As a cleaning agent can in particular serve a commercial shampoo, in particular then can be dispensed with the detergent and the rinsing can be done with tap water, if the application preparation has a strong surfactant-containing carrier medium.

Another embodiment of the second subject of the invention is a method which is characterized in that

First, a color change preparation (I) and an oxidation preparation of a multi-component packaging unit of the first subject of the invention is mixed to a ready-color change agent and this colorant is applied to the hair, left on the hair for an exposure time of 10 to 45 minutes and then washed with water , and

Between the application of the color change preparation (I) or of the ready-to-use colorant and the application of the conditioning preparation (II), a period of a few Minutes are up to a few hours, but preferably the process steps take place directly after one another or directly after completion of the rinsing process of the color change preparation or of the colorant.

Preference is given in each case to a process in which the color change preparation (I) is left on the hair for 10 to 45 minutes, preferably for 10 to 30 minutes. Preference is furthermore given to a process in which the hair is treated with the conditioning preparation (II) for 1 to 25, preferably for 5 to 20 minutes.

The preferred embodiments of the first subject of the invention also apply mutatis mutandis for the second subject of the invention.

A third object of the present invention is the cosmetic use of a multi-component packaging unit of the first subject of the invention for reducing hair damage in the color change of human hair.

A fourth object of the present invention is the cosmetic use of a multi-component packaging unit of the first subject of the invention for improving the washing fastness of dyeing human hair.

The embodiments of the first and second subject invention mutatis mutandis apply to the use of the third subject of the invention.

B E I S P I E L E

1. formulations

(Unless otherwise stated, the quantities are by weight) 1.1 Preparation of the dye preparation (I) (Table 1)

Raw material weight%

La nice D 9,00

Lorol C12-18 3.00

Texapon NSO 7.00

Plantapon LGC Sorb 5.00

Eumulgin B1 0,50

Eumulgin B2 0.50

Isostearic acid 2.0

Myristic acid 0.50

Potassium hydroxide, 50% by weight, aqueous 1, 20

5-amino-2-methylphenol 0.033

1, 2-propanediol 0.55

2-chloro-6-methyl-3-aminophenol 0.1 l p-toluenediamine sulfate 0.125

2-methylresorcinol 0.481

2,6-Dihydroxy-3,4-dimethylpyridine 0.66

4-amino-3-methylphenol 0.16

2,4,5,6-tetraaminopyrimidine sulfate 2,748

Resorcinol 0.214

Sodium sulfite 0.50

Ascorbic acid 0.40

Ammonium sulfate 0.20

Sodium silicate 0.50

Turpinal 0,20

Ammonia, 25% by weight, aqueous 8.90

Water Ad 100 1.2 Preparation of the Oxidizing Agent Preparation (III) (Table 2)

1.3 Preparation of Conditioning Preparations (II)

Basis (Table 3)

Used commercial products

La Nice D INCI name: Cetearyl Alcohol (Cognis)

Lorol C12-18 INCI name: Coconut Alcohol (Cognis)

Plantapon LGC Sorb Active substance content approx. 28-34%; INCI name: Lauryl Glucose

Carboxylates (15-25%), Lauryl Glucosides (10-20%), Aqua (Cognis)

Eumulgin B1 INCI name: Ceteareth-12 (Cognis)

Eumulgin B2 INCI name: Ceteareth-20 (Cognis)

Aculyn 33A about 28% solids in water; INCI name: Acrylates Copolymer

(Rohm & Haas) Texapon NSO approx. 27.5% active substance; INCI name: Sodium Laureth Sulfate (Cognis)

Turpinal SL about 58-61% active substance; INCI name: Etidronic Acid, Aqua

(Solutia)

Cutina GMS-V INCI name: Glyceryl Stearate (Cognis)

Dehyquart F 75 Active substance content approx. 68%; INCI name: Distearoylethyl- hydroxyethylmonium Methosulfate, Cetearyl Alcohol (Cognis)

Cremophor A25 INCI name: Ceteareth-25 (BASF)

Conditioning preparations (II) (Table 4)

2. Application

2.1 Application Example 1 - Washing Resistance

Dyeing preparation (I) and oxidation preparation (III) were mixed in equal parts by weight to give a ready-to-use coloring agent. For the dyeing process, four times the amount of this application mixture was applied to hair strands (white, Euronaturhaar white (Kerling ENHw)) of about 0.7 g in weight. After a contact time of 30 min at 32 ° C, the tresses were washed with water and dried with a towel.

Immediately thereafter, the dyed streaks were each treated with about 10 ml of the conditioning preparations IIa to IM. After an exposure time of 10 minutes at 32 ° C, the strands were rinsed with water and dried with a towel.

The tresses were then subjected to typical hair washes with a commercial shampoo.

Each strand of hair was colorimetrically measured after the dyeing process with subsequent aftertreatment and after 6 washes with a colorimeter from the company Datacolor, Spectraflash 450 type. As a measure of the dyeing power of the respective formulation, the ΔΕ value was used according to the following formula:

AE = V (AL) ² + (Aa) ² + (Ab) ² where ΔΙ_, Aa and Ab represent the difference in L, a and b values, respectively, between untreated and untreated hair

For each recipe and each hair type was a double determination, from the individual values in each case the mean value was formed.

The ΔΔΕ value gives the distance between the AE values before and after the hair wash. It is therefore a measure of the washing resistance of the dyeing. The smaller the ΔΔΕ value, the higher the washing resistance

The following results were obtained (Table 5):

It is clear from the results that the washing stability of the dyeings increases markedly when an aftertreatment with a conditioning preparation according to the invention took place (in each case lower ΔΔΕ values compared to the comparison after treatment with IN). The originally achieved color result is therefore more true to the aftertreatment according to the invention. When using ammonium thiolactate or concentrations of 1 or 2 wt .-% sodium dithionite in the conditioning preparation is still only a small color difference (ΔΕ value) compared to the aftertreatment not according to the invention.

2.2 Application example 2 - Hair structure damage by means of NIR analysis

Hair can be damaged by oxidative treatment such as oxidative staining. Cystine is a component of human hair. Cystine shows at a wavelength of 6200 cm ^"1 to 5500 cm ^{" 1} typical oscillations in the NIR spectrum (near-infra-red). The disulfide bridge contained in cystine can be oxidatively broken during a hair treatment, and the resulting thiol is converted by further oxidation into the sulfonic acid group of cysteic acid. Thus, the hair changes in its cysteic acid content, which increases with greater oxidative damage. Cysteic acid shows in the NIR spectrum at a wavelength of 5020 cm ^"1 - 4020 cm ^{" 1} . The decrease in cystine and the increase in cysteic acid, therefore, is an indicator of hair damage that can be determined by NIR analysis. A detailed description of the method can be found in Evaluation of Physical Properties of Human Hair by Diffuse Reflectance Near-Infrared Spectroscopy, Y. Miyamae, Y. Yamakawa and Y. Ozaki in Applied Spectroscopy, 2007, Vol. 61 (2), p. 212 ff.

After averaging from 9 independent measurements was for light brown hair strands (Kerling EHN 6-0), dyed according to Example 2.1 and a post-treatment with the conditioning preparations IIa, IIb and IM (10 wt .-% and 5 wt .-% ammonium thiolactate and Comparison), the respective amount of cysteic acid and thus determines the degree of damage of the strands.

The strands treated with the conditioning formulations of the present invention show a lower level of cysteic acid in the treated strands and therefore result in reduced hair damage.

Claims

claims

1 . Multi-component packaging unit (kit-of-parts) for changing the color of human hair, comprising a plurality of separately manufactured components, characterized in that

a. a container (A) contains a color change preparation (I) which contains at least one color-modifying component in a cosmetically acceptable carrier medium, and

b. a container (B) contains a conditioning preparation (II) containing in a cosmetically acceptable carrier medium at least 0.5 wt .-%, based on the total weight of the preparation (II), of a reducing agent.

2. Multi-component packaging unit according to claim 1, characterized in that the color change preparation (I) contains as color-modifying component at least one oxidation dye precursor.

3. Multi-component packaging unit according to one of claims 1 or 2, characterized in that the multi-component packaging unit in a further container (C) additionally at least one oxidizing agent preparation (III) containing in a cosmetically acceptable carrier medium at least one oxidizing agent comprises.

4. Multi-component packaging unit according to one of claims 1 to 3, characterized in that the conditioning preparation (II) contains as reducing agent an organic thiol compound and / or an inorganic sulfur salt.

5. Multi-component packaging unit according to one of claims 1 to 4, characterized in that the conditioning preparation (II) as a reducing agent at least one compound selected from thio-lactic acid, thio-glycolic acid, cysteine and / or their cosmetically acceptable salts.

6. multicomponent packaging unit according to one of claims 1 to 4, characterized in that the conditioning preparation (II) as a reducing agent at least one compound selected from sodium sulfide, sodium sulfite, sodium thiosulfate and / or sodium dithionite containing.

7. Multi-component packaging unit according to one of claims 1 to 6, characterized in that the conditioning preparation (II) or the reducing agent in a weight fraction of 0.5 to 25 wt .-%, preferably from 0.7 to 15 wt .-%, loading particularly preferably from 1, 0 to 10 wt .-%, each based on the total weight of the preparation (II).

8. A method for coloring human hair, characterized in that

in a first step, a color change preparation (I) containing in a cosmetically acceptable carrier medium at least one color-modifying component is applied to the hair, is left on the hair for a contact time of 10 to 45 minutes and then washed with water, and

in a second step, a conditioning preparation (II) which is applied to the hair in a cosmetically acceptable carrier medium containing at least 0.5% by weight, based on the total weight of the preparation (II), of a reducing agent, for a contact time of 1 leave on the hair for 25 minutes and then washed with water.

9. Use of a conditioning preparation (II) which contains in a cosmetically acceptable carrier medium at least 0.5 wt .-%, based on the total weight of the preparation (II), of a reducing agent, to reduce the damage to hair in the color change of human hair.

10. Use of a conditioning preparation (II) which contains in a cosmetically acceptable carrier medium at least 0.5 wt .-%, based on the total weight of the preparation (II), of a reducing agent, to improve the wash fastness of dyeings of human hair.