WO2011151114A1 - Polyolpartialester zur anwendung in kosmetik - Google Patents
Polyolpartialester zur anwendung in kosmetik Download PDFInfo
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- WO2011151114A1 WO2011151114A1 PCT/EP2011/056616 EP2011056616W WO2011151114A1 WO 2011151114 A1 WO2011151114 A1 WO 2011151114A1 EP 2011056616 W EP2011056616 W EP 2011056616W WO 2011151114 A1 WO2011151114 A1 WO 2011151114A1
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/92—Oils, fats or waxes; Derivatives thereof, e.g. hydrogenation products thereof
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
- A61K8/33—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
- A61K8/37—Esters of carboxylic acids
- A61K8/375—Esters of carboxylic acids the alcohol moiety containing more than one hydroxy group
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
- A61Q17/00—Barrier preparations; Preparations brought into direct contact with the skin for affording protection against external influences, e.g. sunlight, X-rays or other harmful rays, corrosive materials, bacteria or insect stings
- A61Q17/04—Topical preparations for affording protection against sunlight or other radiation; Topical sun tanning preparations
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- C—CHEMISTRY; METALLURGY
- C07—ORGANIC CHEMISTRY
- C07C—ACYCLIC OR CARBOCYCLIC COMPOUNDS
- C07C69/00—Esters of carboxylic acids; Esters of carbonic or haloformic acids
- C07C69/02—Esters of acyclic saturated monocarboxylic acids having the carboxyl group bound to an acyclic carbon atom or to hydrogen
- C07C69/22—Esters of acyclic saturated monocarboxylic acids having the carboxyl group bound to an acyclic carbon atom or to hydrogen having three or more carbon atoms in the acid moiety
- C07C69/30—Esters of acyclic saturated monocarboxylic acids having the carboxyl group bound to an acyclic carbon atom or to hydrogen having three or more carbon atoms in the acid moiety esterified with trihydroxylic compounds
-
- C—CHEMISTRY; METALLURGY
- C07—ORGANIC CHEMISTRY
- C07C—ACYCLIC OR CARBOCYCLIC COMPOUNDS
- C07C69/00—Esters of carboxylic acids; Esters of carbonic or haloformic acids
- C07C69/02—Esters of acyclic saturated monocarboxylic acids having the carboxyl group bound to an acyclic carbon atom or to hydrogen
- C07C69/22—Esters of acyclic saturated monocarboxylic acids having the carboxyl group bound to an acyclic carbon atom or to hydrogen having three or more carbon atoms in the acid moiety
- C07C69/33—Esters of acyclic saturated monocarboxylic acids having the carboxyl group bound to an acyclic carbon atom or to hydrogen having three or more carbon atoms in the acid moiety esterified with hydroxy compounds having more than three hydroxy groups
-
- C—CHEMISTRY; METALLURGY
- C07—ORGANIC CHEMISTRY
- C07C—ACYCLIC OR CARBOCYCLIC COMPOUNDS
- C07C69/00—Esters of carboxylic acids; Esters of carbonic or haloformic acids
- C07C69/76—Esters of carboxylic acids having a carboxyl group bound to a carbon atom of a six-membered aromatic ring
- C07C69/78—Benzoic acid esters
-
- C—CHEMISTRY; METALLURGY
- C11—ANIMAL OR VEGETABLE OILS, FATS, FATTY SUBSTANCES OR WAXES; FATTY ACIDS THEREFROM; DETERGENTS; CANDLES
- C11C—FATTY ACIDS FROM FATS, OILS OR WAXES; CANDLES; FATS, OILS OR FATTY ACIDS BY CHEMICAL MODIFICATION OF FATS, OILS, OR FATTY ACIDS OBTAINED THEREFROM
- C11C3/00—Fats, oils, or fatty acids by chemical modification of fats, oils, or fatty acids obtained therefrom
- C11C3/003—Fats, oils, or fatty acids by chemical modification of fats, oils, or fatty acids obtained therefrom by esterification of fatty acids with alcohols
-
- C—CHEMISTRY; METALLURGY
- C11—ANIMAL OR VEGETABLE OILS, FATS, FATTY SUBSTANCES OR WAXES; FATTY ACIDS THEREFROM; DETERGENTS; CANDLES
- C11C—FATTY ACIDS FROM FATS, OILS OR WAXES; CANDLES; FATS, OILS OR FATTY ACIDS BY CHEMICAL MODIFICATION OF FATS, OILS, OR FATTY ACIDS OBTAINED THEREFROM
- C11C3/00—Fats, oils, or fatty acids by chemical modification of fats, oils, or fatty acids obtained therefrom
- C11C3/02—Fats, oils, or fatty acids by chemical modification of fats, oils, or fatty acids obtained therefrom by esterification of fatty acids with glycerol
-
- C—CHEMISTRY; METALLURGY
- C11—ANIMAL OR VEGETABLE OILS, FATS, FATTY SUBSTANCES OR WAXES; FATTY ACIDS THEREFROM; DETERGENTS; CANDLES
- C11C—FATTY ACIDS FROM FATS, OILS OR WAXES; CANDLES; FATS, OILS OR FATTY ACIDS BY CHEMICAL MODIFICATION OF FATS, OILS, OR FATTY ACIDS OBTAINED THEREFROM
- C11C3/00—Fats, oils, or fatty acids by chemical modification of fats, oils, or fatty acids obtained therefrom
- C11C3/02—Fats, oils, or fatty acids by chemical modification of fats, oils, or fatty acids obtained therefrom by esterification of fatty acids with glycerol
- C11C3/025—Fats, oils, or fatty acids by chemical modification of fats, oils, or fatty acids obtained therefrom by esterification of fatty acids with glycerol with a stoechiometric excess of glycerol
-
- C—CHEMISTRY; METALLURGY
- C11—ANIMAL OR VEGETABLE OILS, FATS, FATTY SUBSTANCES OR WAXES; FATTY ACIDS THEREFROM; DETERGENTS; CANDLES
- C11C—FATTY ACIDS FROM FATS, OILS OR WAXES; CANDLES; FATS, OILS OR FATTY ACIDS BY CHEMICAL MODIFICATION OF FATS, OILS, OR FATTY ACIDS OBTAINED THEREFROM
- C11C3/00—Fats, oils, or fatty acids by chemical modification of fats, oils, or fatty acids obtained therefrom
- C11C3/04—Fats, oils, or fatty acids by chemical modification of fats, oils, or fatty acids obtained therefrom by esterification of fats or fatty oils
- C11C3/06—Fats, oils, or fatty acids by chemical modification of fats, oils, or fatty acids obtained therefrom by esterification of fats or fatty oils with glycerol
-
- C—CHEMISTRY; METALLURGY
- C11—ANIMAL OR VEGETABLE OILS, FATS, FATTY SUBSTANCES OR WAXES; FATTY ACIDS THEREFROM; DETERGENTS; CANDLES
- C11C—FATTY ACIDS FROM FATS, OILS OR WAXES; CANDLES; FATS, OILS OR FATTY ACIDS BY CHEMICAL MODIFICATION OF FATS, OILS, OR FATTY ACIDS OBTAINED THEREFROM
- C11C3/00—Fats, oils, or fatty acids by chemical modification of fats, oils, or fatty acids obtained therefrom
- C11C3/04—Fats, oils, or fatty acids by chemical modification of fats, oils, or fatty acids obtained therefrom by esterification of fats or fatty oils
- C11C3/08—Fats, oils, or fatty acids by chemical modification of fats, oils, or fatty acids obtained therefrom by esterification of fats or fatty oils with fatty acids
Definitions
- the invention relates to polyol partial esters
- Cosmetic products for skin care applications usually consist of emulsions containing oily bodies.
- cosmetic emulsions usually contain
- cosmetic active ingredients intended to have special effects for the protection and regeneration of the skin.
- Cosmetic oil bodies should preferably give a caring, but not sticky or oily feeling on the skin.
- the oil bodies contained in emulsions have it too
- Silicone oils especially cyclomethicones, are widely used cosmetic oil bodies which are a good
- silicone oils also have significant weaknesses in their compatibility with cosmetic agents. Due to its strongly hydrophobic character Silicone oils are barely able to dissolve active substances with a polar character in particular. Furthermore, silicone oils
- Polyol partial esters such as, for example, partial esters of glycerol with fatty acids, are known per se in cosmetics.
- DE 19631004 and DE 19543696 describe cosmetic preparations comprising one or more
- esters mentioned herein are glycerol monocaprylate (GMCy, glycerol monocaprinate GMC, glycerol monostearate GMS,
- Glycerol monoundecylate GMU diglycerol monocaprinate DMC, triglycerol monolaurate TML, triglycerol monomyristate TMM.
- Diglycerol monoesters or higher polyglycerol esters produce improved stability of W / O emulsions.
- EP 1762216 discloses liquid make-up remover with nonionic surfactants and Glycerinpartialestern a C6 to C12 fatty acid, wherein the total content of mono- and Diesters is more than 50% and the weight ratio of mono- to diesters is 4 or less.
- EP 1800650 describes hydroxy esters from the esterification of a polyol with C4-C16 acids, with a high proportion of monoesters.
- EP 531684 describes combinations of glycerol diesters having a total of 13 to 20 carbon atoms with polyalcohols and detergent surfactants. The amount of surfactant in the
- Cleaning agent is 10 to 50% and is
- EP 522624 discloses glyceryl caprylates and glyceryl caprate as preferred emulsifiers for specific lipstick W / O emulsions.
- DE 102008013023 describes a process for the preparation of octanoic acid glycerol esters having a molar ratio
- Glycerol to octanoic acid in the range 1 to 1 to 1 to 0.45.
- glycerol partial esters with a high proportion of monoglyceride are well suited to assist the penetration of cosmetic agents into the skin.
- Typical products for which such an effect is claimed are, for example, AKOLINE products of the company
- the AKOLINE products are partial esters of the Glycerol with caprylic / capric acid with a
- a similarly advertised product is, for example, IMWITOR 308 from Sasol. This is a partial ester of glycerol with caprylic acid with a monoglyceride content> 80%.
- Both the product IMWITOR 308 (melting point 30-34 ° C) and the AKOLINE products (melting point 25-28 ° C) are solid or pasty crystalline masses at room temperature.
- Use of such solid glycerol partial esters with a monoglyceride content> 50% as cosmetic oils with good spreadability and light skin feel is therefore impossible.
- these Glycerinpartialester high monoglyceride content as
- Glycerolpartialester of the prior art therefore also described as emulsifiers and not as an oil body, see also the product documentation ALKOLINE, Imwitor 308 as well as EP0522624.
- the object of the invention was therefore at least one
- Another object of the invention are cosmetic and pharmaceutical formulations containing Polyolpartialester invention.
- Another object of the present invention is the use of the polyol partial esters according to the invention as a solubilizer for cosmetic active ingredients, as well as
- Another object of the invention is the use of polyol partial esters according to the invention for the solvation of UV filters, especially in cosmetic
- the polyol partial esters according to the invention are at least one of the polyol partial esters according to the invention.
- Room temperature liquid and can be used as oil body in
- the polyol partial esters according to the invention are notable in particular for a non-oil, non-sticky, dry
- non-volatile substitutes for cyclomethicones are non-volatile substitutes for cyclomethicones.
- Polyolpartialester is that they as an oil body in
- cosmetic formulations with active ingredients used be able to provide for a better effectiveness of the active ingredients used, as they are
- Penetration enhancers such as glyceryl monocaprylate (solid product) is the very high compatibility of the
- Polyol partial esters with typical nonpolar cosmetic oils e.g. Mineral oil.
- Another advantage of the polyol partial esters according to the invention is that they are readily distributable on the skin.
- renewable raw materials can be produced.
- Polyolpartialester is that the miscibility with other oil phases is given without melting or
- Polyolpartialester increased sun protection for UV sunscreen filter substances is achieved than with conventional solvents.
- Polyolpartialester between 1: 0.90 and 1: 0.35, preferably between 1: 0.83 and 1: 0.40 and more preferably between 1: 0.70 and 1: 0.45.
- a glycerol partial ester may contain at least two of the glycerol esters selected from glycerol monoester (or monoglyceride), glycerol diester (or diglyceride) and glycerol triester (or triglyceride) of the full esters is explicitly included in this context as a possible constituent of the mixture.
- Polyol partial esters which are preferred according to the invention are characterized in that they have a melting point of less than 22 ° C., in particular less than 20 ° C., at 1 bar pressure.
- Preferred polyols are sugars, such as pentoses and hexoses, and sugar alcohols, and their anhydrides, especially those selected from the group comprising, preferably consisting of sorbitol, mannitol, xylitol, erythritol, arabitol, sorbitan and simple polyols, in particular pentaerythritol, trimethylolmethane, trimethylolethane .
- unsubstituted, linear or branched carboxylic acids are used to obtain the polyol partial esters.
- These are preferably saturated according to the invention, but it can also be used for certain questions
- aromatic carboxylic acids in particular benzoic acid.
- Polyol partial esters are in particular saturated, none
- Heteroatom-containing carboxylic acids comprises, preferably consists of, neopentanoic acid, isoamylic acid, pentanoic acid, n-hexanoic acid, 2-ethylbutanoic acid, cyclohexanecarboxylic acid, n-octanoic acid, 2-ethylhexanoic acid, isononanoic acid, 3,5-trimethylhexanoic acid, n-decanoic acid, isobutanoic acid, Decanoic acid, lauric acid and 2-butyloctanoic acid,
- Polyolpartialester present.
- those polyol partial esters are preferred in which each individual polyol ester of a certain degree of esterification (such as monoesters, diesters, triesters) contained in the polyol partial ester is not more than 80% by weight, preferably not more than 70% by weight and especially preferably not more than 60 wt .-% based on the total Polyolpartialester makes.
- those polyol partial esters are preferred in which the content of monoester less than 60 wt .-%, in particular less is 50% by weight, more preferably less than 45% by weight, based on the total polyol partial ester.
- polyol partial esters according to the invention are further obtainable by thermal methods known per se to the person skilled in the art, for example as described in US Pat
- esterification is under
- Polyol partial ester is preferably carried out at 120-260 ° C, more preferably 160-250 ° C.
- an enzymatically catalyzed esterification reaction is the
- Reaction progress can be monitored, for example, on the acid number, for example by the method of DIN53402 or DIN EN ISO 2114, the product, so that it is preferable to carry out the reaction until the desired acid number is reached.
- a preferred embodiment is characterized in that to obtain the Polyol partial ester a mixture of n-octanoic acid and n-decanoic acid in a weight ratio of 40 to 80 to 20 to 60, preferably from 50 to 70 to 30 to 50, in particular from 55 to 65 to 35, is used, wherein it is particularly preferred according to the invention in that, per mole of OH group contained in the polyol, a total of 0.45 to 0.70 mol, preferably 0.48 to 0.52 mol, of acyl groups of octanoic acid and decanoic acid are esterified in the polyol partial ester.
- the polyol used is in particular glycerol.
- Another object of the invention are cosmetic and pharmaceutical formulations containing Polyolpartialester invention. Since polyol partial esters according to the invention promote a penetration of low molecular weight substances, in particular cosmetic and pharmaceutical active ingredients such as listed below by way of example, into the uppermost skin layers, preferred formulations comprise at least one cosmetic and / or pharmaceutical active substance.
- active ingredient generally includes active substances which have a desired physiological or
- Examples of such active substances are tocopherol, tocopherol acetate, tocopherol palmitate, ascorbic acid,
- Deoxyribonucleic acid Deoxyribonucleic acid, coenzyme Q10, retinol, bisabolol, allantoin, phytantriol, panthenol, AHA acids, amino acids, hyaluronic acid, alpha hydroxy acids, polyglutamic acid, creatine (and creatine derivatives), guanidine (and
- Guanidine derivatives Guanidine derivatives
- ceramides phytosphingosine (and
- Sphingosine derivatives Sphingosine derivatives
- pseudoceramides Sphingolipids
- percentages by weight are based on the total formulation, and the percentages by weight of components (a), (b), (c) (d) and (e) preferably add up to 100 percent by weight.
- active ingredients are selected from the group consisting of: tocopherol, tocopherol acetate,
- Hyaluronic acid alpha hydroxy acids, polyglutamic acid, creatine (and creatine derivatives), guanidine (and
- Guanidine derivatives Guanidine derivatives
- ceramides phytosphingosine (and
- Sphingosine derivatives Sphingosine derivatives
- pseudoceramides Sphingolipids
- essential oils Sphingopeptides and oligopeptides
- Another object of the present invention are cosmetic sunscreen formulations containing
- cosmetic sunscreen formulation is to be understood as meaning a cosmetic composition for topical application
- compositions which, because of its ingredients, is conspicuously suitable for reducing the radiation arriving on the surface for a surface exposed to UV radiation.
- compositions fall in particular those which are at least one of the following
- Cosmetic sunscreen formulations according to the invention preferably contain UV light protection filters.
- UVB filters can be oil-soluble or water-soluble.
- oil-soluble UVB sunscreens e.g. to call :
- 4-aminobenzoic acid derivatives e.g.
- esters of salicylic acid e.g. 2-ethylhexyl salicylate, 4-isopropylbenzyl salicylate, homomenthyl salicylate,
- Triazine derivatives such as 2, 4, 6-trianilino- (p-carbo-2'-ethyl-1 '-hexyloxy) -1, 3, 5-triazine, octyltriazone and those described in EP 1180359 and DE 2004/027475, Propane-1,3-diones such as 1- (4-tert-butylphenyl) -3- (4'-methoxyphenyl) propane-1,3-dione.
- Suitable water-soluble UVB sunscreen filters are: 2-phenylbenzimidazole-5-sulfonic acid and its alkali,
- UVA photoprotective filters are in particular derivatives of benzoylmethane in question, such as, for example, 1- (4'-tert-butylphenyl) -3- (4'-methoxyphenyl) propane-1, 3-dione or 1-phenyl-3- (4 '-isopropylphenyl) propane-1,3-dione.
- benzoylmethane such as, for example, 1- (4'-tert-butylphenyl) -3- (4'-methoxyphenyl) propane-1, 3-dione or 1-phenyl-3- (4 '-isopropylphenyl) propane-1,3-dione.
- UV-A and UV-B filters can also be used in mixtures.
- insoluble pigments are also used for this purpose, namely finely dispersed
- Metal oxides or salts in question such as
- Titanium dioxide zinc oxide, iron oxide, alumina, ceria, zirconia, silicates (talc), barium sulfate and
- Zinc stearate The particles should have an average diameter of less than 100 nm, e.g. between 5 and 50 nm and in particular between 15 and 30 nm. You may have a spherical shape, but it can also be used those particles that have a
- a relatively new class of sunscreen filters are micronized organic ones
- Pigments such as 2, 2'-methylenebis ⁇ 6- (2H-benzotriazole-2-yl) -4- (1,1,3,3-tetramethylbutyl) -phenol ⁇ with a particle size of ⁇ 200 nm, which is available, for example, as a 50% aqueous dispersion.
- UV light protection filters can be found in the review by P. Finkel in S ⁇ FW Journal 122, 543 (1996). In addition to the two groups mentioned above primary
- UV sunscreen filters can also be secondary
- UV stabilizers are used, which interrupt the photochemical reaction chain, which is triggered when UV radiation penetrates into the skin.
- Sunscreen formulations contain these preferably the lipophilic, hydrophobic UV sunscreen filter substances, in particular triazine derivatives.
- UV-B filters are the UV light protection filter substances 2-cyano-3-phenylcinnamic acid 2-ethylhexyl ester, 2,4-bis ⁇ [4- (2-ethylhexyloxy) -2-hydroxy] - phenyl ⁇ -6- (4-methoxyphenyl) -1, 3, 5-triazine, dioctylbutylami- dotriazone, 2-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone, 2-hydroxy-4-methoxy-4'-methylbenzophenone, 2,2 '- Dihydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone, di-2-ethylhexyl 4-methoxybenzmalonate, 2, 4, 6-tris [anilino (p-carbo-2'-ethyl-1 '-hexyloxy)] -1, 3, 5 triazine, 2,4-bis [5,1 (dimethylpropyl) benzoxazol-2-yl- (4-phenyl) -i
- Preferred UV-A filters are 1- (4'-tert-butylphenyl) -3- (4'-methoxyphenyl) propane-1,3-dione, 1-phenyl-3- (4'-isopropylphenyl) -propane -1, 3-dione used.
- UV-A filters are 4- (tert-butyl) -4'-methoxydibenzoylmethane (CAS No. 70356-09-1), which is available from Givaudan under the name Parsol 1789 and is sold by Merck under the trade name Eusolex® 9020, and hydroxybenzophenones according to DE 102004027475, especially before ⁇ Trains t of 2- (4 'diethylamino-2' -hydroxybenzoyl) -benzoic acid hexyl ester (also: Aminobenzophenone), which is available under the name Uvinul A Plus from BASF.
- 2- (4 'diethylamino-2' -hydroxybenzoyl) -benzoic acid hexyl ester also: Aminobenzophenone
- UV filter substances are further so-called broadband filters, i. Filter substances that absorb both UV-A and UV-B radiation.
- Filter substances that absorb both UV-A and UV-B radiation.
- preference is given to 2,2'-methylene-bis (6- (2H-benzotriazol-2-yl) -4- (1,1,3,3-tetramethylbutyl) -phenol, which is sold under the trade name Tinosorb® M available from BASF and 2- (2H-benzotriazol-2-yl) -4-methyl-6- [2-methyl-3- [1, 3, 3, 3-tetramethyl-l- [(trimethylsi- lyl) oxy] disiloxanyl] propyl] phenol (CAS No .: 155633-54-8) with the INCI name Drometrizole Trisiloxane,
- the amount of UV light protection filters is preferential ⁇ as 0.01-20%, preferably 0.05-15%, more preferably 0.1-10% based on the formulation.
- a further, preferably used, additional component in the sunscreen formulation according to the invention is the group of film formers in order to increase the water resistance of the sunscreen formulation
- PVP polyvinylpyrrolidone
- VA vinyl acetate
- PVP polyvinylpyrrolidone
- copolymers of polyvinylpyrrolidone PVP / hexadecene copolymer or the PVP / eicosene copolymer.
- Formulation may e.g. at least one additional one
- Hydrotropes (or polyols),
- Typical frame formulations for the respective applications are known in the art and are included, for example, in the brochures of the manufacturers of the respective basic substances and active ingredients. These existing formulations can usually be adopted unchanged. in the
- Formulations of the invention may, for example Ver ⁇ application in the form of an emulsion, a suspension, a solution, a cream, an ointment, a paste, a gel, an oil, a powder, an aerosol, a pin, egg ⁇ nes spray or a foam, Find.
- percentages by weight are based on the total formulation, and the percentages by weight of components (a), (b), (c) (d) and (e) preferably add up to 100 percent by weight.
- a further contribution to the solution of the aforementioned object is a method for producing the
- cosmetic sunscreen formulation according to the invention comprising the method steps
- Polyol partial esters as solubilizers or solvents for at least one UV sunscreen filter substance are Polyol partial esters as solubilizers or solvents for at least one UV sunscreen filter substance
- the term “increasing the light protection effect of at least one UV Sunscreen filter substance” an increase compared to conventional emollients, especially to understand Ethylhexyl palmitate, dicaprylyl carbonates, diethylhexyl carbonates, caprylic / capric triglycerides, C12-15 alkyl benzoates, octyldodecanol, isopropyl palmitates, isopropyl myristates, butylenes glycol dicaprylates / dicaprate and paraffin liquid : Does a formulation with conventional emollient have a certain SPF
- Penetration agent for cosmetic agents in the skin.
- penetration into the skin is understood to mean a penetration of the active substance into the uppermost skin layers
- polyol partial esters according to the invention as penetration promoters for cosmetic active ingredients in the skin and in the use of the invention
- Polyol partial esters for increasing the light protection effect of at least one UV light protection filter substance it is preferred to use those polyol partial esters according to the invention which have been described above as being preferred
- UV sun protection filter substances are preferably used which are preferred in the cosmetic sunscreen formulations described above, in particular in the above described
- Cosmetic active ingredients in the skin are preferably those cosmetic active ingredients used, which are described above as active ingredients preferably contained in compositions of the invention.
- the examples below the
- Precursor fatty acid (C8 / C10 fatty acid):
- VZ (saponification number): 315 mg KOH / g
- the skin is quality controlled by TEWL (measurement of transepidermal water loss), which should be between 10-30 g / m 2 h.
- TEWL measurement of transepidermal water loss
- the prepared pork skin strips are stored at -20 ° C for a maximum of 4 months. For the penetration test, the
- Skin strips are punched round pieces with a diameter of 1.5cm, which are stretched on the Franz cells. Thereafter, the test substance (20-40mg / cm 2 ) is distributed on the skin. The Franz diffusion cells were incubated for 24 hours at a temperature of 32 ° C and a
- Pig skin was cut into small pieces and placed in 5 ml of methanol and the emollient extracted from the skin for 24 h on the shaker at 300 rpm. In each case one untreated pig skin, as well as three
- 0.5 g of the emulsion and the same amount of sodium sulfate are transferred to a sample bottle. Then 20 ml of methanol are added. This solution is shaken on a circular shaker at 300 rpm.
- the supernatant is washed with a cotton swab from the skin and transferred to an Eppendorf tube filled with 1 ml methanol. This will be done with a tube shaker
- the skin is cut into small pieces with scissors and placed in a 15ml sample bottle. Then 5 ml of methanol are added. This sample bottle is shaken on a circular shaker at 300 rpm. After 24 hours, 1.5 ml of the suspension is filled into an Eppendorf tube and centrifuged at 13000 rpm for 3 min
- the receptor medium is pipetted into an Eppendorf tube and centrifuged at 13000 rpm for 3 min
- UV wavelength for retinol 272nm and 325nm respectively
- UV wavelength for phytosphingosine salicylate 300nm
- UV wavelength for retinol 272nm and 325nm respectively
- Fluorescence wavelengths excitation at 295nm and emission at 330nm
- the C8 / C10 esters of glycerol were chosen as substances for a meaningful comparative series.
- Known endpoints used were the (not according to the invention) triester of glycerol 4 'and the (not according to the invention) partial ester of glycerol with caprylic acid
- Polyol partial esters according to the invention cause a significantly increased penetration of the drug into the skin compared to the full caprylic / capric triglycerides.
- Penetration level as with the use of the known penetration enhancer glyceryl monocaprylate.
- Monoglyceride content lies in the significantly improved compatibility with common cosmetic oils (Table 4).
- Table 4 Comparison of the solubility of a polyol partial ester according to the invention in comparison to glyceryl monocaprylate in various common cosmetic emollients. It can be seen clearly from the solubility values in Table 4 that the polyol partial esters according to the invention have a significantly better compatibility with conventional ones
- Emollient / to the active ingredient active ingredient synthesis in the amount used in skin supernatant o
- the two UV-B filter Ethylhexyl Triazone were as filter substances (Uvinul ® T 150 (BASF SE)), and
- Benzophenone-3 (Uvinul M 40 ® (BASF SE) was used.
- Comparative formulations were used lotions with the standard Emollients diethylhexyl carbonates / C12-15 alkyl benzoates in the weight ratio 1/1 and Caprylic / Capric triglycerides.
- Titanium dioxides
- Cetearyl Glucoside 8 2.0% 2.0% 2.0% 2.0% 2.0%
- the described cosmetic emulsions serve to exemplify the usefulness of the polyol partial esters according to the invention in cosmetic emulsions.
- Titanium dioxides Trimethoxycaprylylsilane 5, 0%
- Citric Acid (10% Solution) (pH qs, set to 4.0)
Abstract
Description
Claims
Priority Applications (3)
Application Number | Priority Date | Filing Date | Title |
---|---|---|---|
US13/701,358 US20130071340A1 (en) | 2010-05-31 | 2011-04-27 | Polyol partial esters for use in cosmetics |
EP11717254.4A EP2576494A1 (de) | 2010-05-31 | 2011-04-27 | Polyolpartialester zur anwendung in kosmetik |
CN2011800269366A CN102933541A (zh) | 2010-05-31 | 2011-04-27 | 用于化妆品中的多元醇偏酯 |
Applications Claiming Priority (2)
Application Number | Priority Date | Filing Date | Title |
---|---|---|---|
DE102010029499A DE102010029499A1 (de) | 2010-05-31 | 2010-05-31 | Polyolpartialester zur Anwendung in Kosmetik |
DE102010029499.3 | 2010-05-31 |
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WO2011151114A1 true WO2011151114A1 (de) | 2011-12-08 |
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PCT/EP2011/056616 WO2011151114A1 (de) | 2010-05-31 | 2011-04-27 | Polyolpartialester zur anwendung in kosmetik |
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US (1) | US20130071340A1 (de) |
EP (1) | EP2576494A1 (de) |
CN (1) | CN102933541A (de) |
DE (1) | DE102010029499A1 (de) |
WO (1) | WO2011151114A1 (de) |
Cited By (3)
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DE102011085493A1 (de) | 2011-10-31 | 2013-05-02 | Evonik Industries Ag | Arjunolsäure zur Erhöhung der Sebumproduktion |
US9738797B2 (en) | 2012-04-20 | 2017-08-22 | Evonik Deguesse GmbH | Use of polyglycerol partial esters as defoamers |
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EP3500550B1 (de) | 2016-08-18 | 2021-03-17 | Evonik Operations GmbH | Vernetzte polyglycerinester |
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FR3113833B1 (fr) * | 2020-09-08 | 2023-12-01 | Oreal | Composition cosmetique contenant du retinol |
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JP2024513527A (ja) * | 2021-09-28 | 2024-03-25 | エルジー・ケム・リミテッド | 硬化性組成物 |
WO2024000404A1 (en) * | 2022-06-30 | 2024-01-04 | L'oreal | Composition for caring for and/or making up keratin materials |
CN115372521A (zh) * | 2022-09-21 | 2022-11-22 | 重庆智合生物医药有限公司 | 植物鞘氨醇和/或n-乙酰植物鞘氨醇的分离鉴定方法 |
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- 2010-05-31 DE DE102010029499A patent/DE102010029499A1/de not_active Withdrawn
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2011
- 2011-04-27 US US13/701,358 patent/US20130071340A1/en not_active Abandoned
- 2011-04-27 CN CN2011800269366A patent/CN102933541A/zh active Pending
- 2011-04-27 EP EP11717254.4A patent/EP2576494A1/de not_active Withdrawn
- 2011-04-27 WO PCT/EP2011/056616 patent/WO2011151114A1/de active Application Filing
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Cited By (3)
Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
---|---|---|---|---|
DE102011085497A1 (de) | 2011-10-31 | 2013-05-02 | Evonik Industries Ag | Kosmetische Formulierung |
DE102011085493A1 (de) | 2011-10-31 | 2013-05-02 | Evonik Industries Ag | Arjunolsäure zur Erhöhung der Sebumproduktion |
US9738797B2 (en) | 2012-04-20 | 2017-08-22 | Evonik Deguesse GmbH | Use of polyglycerol partial esters as defoamers |
Also Published As
Publication number | Publication date |
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DE102010029499A1 (de) | 2011-12-01 |
CN102933541A (zh) | 2013-02-13 |
EP2576494A1 (de) | 2013-04-10 |
US20130071340A1 (en) | 2013-03-21 |
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