WO2011039097A1 - Procede de deformation permanente des cheveux au moyen d'un mercaptosiloxane, utilisation et composition - Google Patents
Procede de deformation permanente des cheveux au moyen d'un mercaptosiloxane, utilisation et composition Download PDFInfo
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- WO2011039097A1 WO2011039097A1 PCT/EP2010/064031 EP2010064031W WO2011039097A1 WO 2011039097 A1 WO2011039097 A1 WO 2011039097A1 EP 2010064031 W EP2010064031 W EP 2010064031W WO 2011039097 A1 WO2011039097 A1 WO 2011039097A1
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- keratin
- silicones
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
- A61K8/84—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions otherwise than those involving only carbon-carbon unsaturated bonds
- A61K8/89—Polysiloxanes
- A61K8/896—Polysiloxanes containing atoms other than silicon, carbon, oxygen and hydrogen, e.g. dimethicone copolyol phosphate
- A61K8/899—Polysiloxanes containing atoms other than silicon, carbon, oxygen and hydrogen, e.g. dimethicone copolyol phosphate containing sulfur, e.g. sodium PG-propyldimethicone thiosulfate copolyol
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
- A61Q5/00—Preparations for care of the hair
- A61Q5/04—Preparations for permanent waving or straightening the hair
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K2800/00—Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
- A61K2800/80—Process related aspects concerning the preparation of the cosmetic composition or the storage or application thereof
- A61K2800/94—Involves covalent bonding to the substrate
Definitions
- the invention relates to a method for the cosmetic treatment of hair during a permanent hair deformation operation comprising a step of applying a composition comprising a silicone functionalized with one or more mercapto groups of molecular weight less than 10. 000, as well as the use of this method and a particular composition comprising the functionalized silicone.
- the first technique for obtaining a permanent deformation of the hair consists, in a first step, in opening the disulfide bonds --SS - of keratin (keratocystin) with the aid of a composition containing a suitable reducing agent such as the ammonium thioglycolate and sulphites (reduction step) then, after having rinsed the hair thus treated, generally with water, to reconstitute in a second time said disulfide bonds by applying to hair previously put under tension for example by curlers, an oxidizing composition (oxidation step, also called fixation) so as finally to give the hair the desired shape.
- a suitable reducing agent such as the ammonium thioglycolate and sulphites
- This technique thus makes it possible to perform the waving (permanent process) and / or the straightening (straightening) of the hair.
- the new form imposed on the hair by a chemical treatment as above is eminently durable over time and resists particularly the action of washing with water or shampoo, and this as opposed to simple conventional techniques of temporary deformation, such as styling.
- the second technique for obtaining a permanent deformation of hair consists of carrying out an operation called lanthionization, with the aid of a composition containing a base belonging to the family of hydroxides. It leads to replace disulfide bonds (-CH2-SS-CH2-) by lanthionine bonds (-CH 2 -S-CH 2 -). This Operation of lanthionization involves two consecutive chemical reactions:
- the first reaction is a beta-elimination on cystine caused by a hydroxide ion, leading to the cleavage of this bond and dehydroalanine training, as shown in the following reaction scheme.
- the second reaction is a reaction with dehydroalanine thio l.
- the double bond of the dehydroalanine formed is a reactive double bond. It can react with the thio group of the cysteine residue that has been released to form a new bond called a bridge or lanthionine bond or residue.
- This second reaction is illustrated by the following reaction scheme.
- this lanthionization technique does not require a fixation step, since the formation of lanthionine bridges is irreversible. It is therefore carried out in a single step and allows indifferently to achieve either the waving of the hair, or their shaping or their decreption or their smoothing. However, it is mainly used for shaping naturally frizzy hair.
- the Applicant has surprisingly discovered that by applying to the hair, during a permanent deformation operation, such as a perm, a smoothing, a straightening or a decripping, a composition comprising a silicone functionalized by one or more These groups, whose molecular weight is less than 10 000, together with a heat application stage, made it possible to give the hair a smooth feel, a reduction in mass and a control of the volume and frizzy with moisture, these effects being remanent to at least 5 shampoos, as well as a relaxing effect of curls on wavy and curly hair.
- a permanent deformation operation such as a perm, a smoothing, a straightening or a decripping, a composition comprising a silicone functionalized by one or more These groups, whose molecular weight is less than 10 000, together with a heat application stage, made it possible to give the hair a smooth feel, a reduction in mass and a control of the volume and frizzy with moisture, these effects being remanent to
- GB 1 1 82 939 discloses a hair treatment process comprising a step of applying a reducing composition, a step of applying an aqueous dispersion of an organic silicone containing at least one mercaptoalkyl substituent, then an oxidation step. This method makes it possible to provide significant improvements in terms of shine and body of the hair, and a more durable shaping of the hair with moisture.
- EP 0 295 780 also discloses a hair treatment process comprising the application of a reducing composition comprising an organic silicone functionalized with a mercaptoalkyl group, and then the application of an oxidizing composition. This method makes it possible to carry out the permanent shaping of the hair while conferring a conditioning effect resistant to washes.
- the object of the invention is therefore a cosmetic hair treatment method, during a permanent hair deformation operation, comprising:
- a fixing step for closing said disulfide bonds by applying an oxidizing composition (B) to the keratinous fibers in the case of the application of one or more reducing agents as a breaking agent,
- one or more silicones (i) of molecular weight less than 10,000 and functionalized with one or more mercapto groups are introduced into the composition (A) and / or into the oxidizing composition (B) and / or applied to the keratinous fibers between the step of applying the composition (A) and the fixing step by application of the oxidizing composition (B), by means of an intermediate composition (C) containing them,
- the subject of the invention is also the use of the cosmetic treatment method to obtain a smooth touch of the hair, an increase in the lightness of the hair and a control of the volume of the hair with moisture.
- the invention finally relates to kits that can be used for implementing the method according to the invention.
- the invention finally relates to compositions comprising one or more silicones (i) with a molecular weight of less than 10,000 and functionalized with one or more particular mercapto groups.
- the functionalized silicone or silicones (i) used in the process according to the invention are chosen from compounds of the following formulas:
- R 1 denotes a hydrocarbon chain comprising 1 to 100 carbon atoms, saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, optionally cyclic, optionally interrupted by a heteroatom selected from N, O, S, P.
- R 1 denotes, preferably, a C 1 -C 10 alkylene group, more preferably a propylene group
- R 2 denotes an alkyl group containing from 1 to 6 carbon atoms or an alkoxy group containing from 1 to 6 carbon atoms.
- R 2 denotes, preferably, a methyl group or a methoxy group.
- n 0 to 132
- m varies from 1 to 132.
- the functionalized silicone or silicones (i) are introduced into the composition (A) comprising one or more di-sulfide linkage agents of the keratin, and / or in the oxidizing composition (B) and / or in an intermediate composition (C).
- the functionalized silicone or silicones are introduced into the composition (A).
- the functionalized silicone or silicones (i) may be introduced into the compositions of the invention, and in particular into the composition (A), just before the application of said compositions to the keratinous fibers.
- the functionalized silicone or silicones (i) may be introduced into the composition (A) and / or (B) and / or (C) either in pure form, or in the presence of one or more silicone or hydrocarbon solvents, or in the presence of latex form.
- the content of silicone functionalized (i) in the composition (A) and / or (B) and / or (C) generally varies from 0.5 to 50%, preferably from 0.5 to 5%, better still from 1 to 2% by weight of the total weight of the composition containing it.
- mercaptosiloxane in which the mercapto functional groups are located at the end of the chain, marketed by SHIN-ETSU under the reference X-22-167B and the mercaptosiloxane. , in which the mercapto functions are pending, marketed by SHIN-ETSU under the reference KF-2001.
- composition (A) used for disrupting the disulfide bonds of keratin in the process according to the invention generally comprises one or more disulfide bonding agents of the keratin chosen from thiolated reducing agents, non-thiolated organic reducing agents, mineral and / or organic hydroxides and or their precursors.
- the thiolated reducing agents are generally chosen from reducing agents of formula
- X represents a sulfur atom
- R represents a linear, branched or cyclic, saturated or unsaturated C 1 -C 20 hydrocarbon radical, or a formamidino or guanidino group, optionally interrupted by one or more heteroatoms, and optionally comprising one or more substituents chosen from one or more groups; hydroxy, carboxyl (COOH), (Ci-C 30) alkyl carboxy (COOR), thiol, oxy (CO), amino, mono- (Ci-C 3 o) alkyl-amino, di- (Ci-C 3 o) alkyl amino, (CONH 2), (C 1 -C 30 ) alkyl-CON-, mono- (C 1 -C 30 ) alkyl-NCO-, di- (C 1 -C 3 ) alkyl-NCO-, a halogenated group, the group or groups being a linear, branched or cyclic, saturated or unsaturated C 1 -C 20 hydrocarbon radical, optionally interrupted by one or more heteroatom
- alkyl substituents when two alkyl substituents are borne by one and the same nitrogen atom, they may form a C5-C7 ring, such as a piperazine, which may or may not be substituted, by one or more alkyl, hydroxyalkyl, amino or alkylamino groups, halogen atom,
- thiol reducing agents that may be used in the reducing composition used according to the invention, mention may be made of thiolated reducing agents chosen from thioglycolic acid, thiolactic acid, glycerol monothioglycolate, cysteamine, N acetyl-cysteamine, N-propionyl-cysteamine, cysteine, N-acetyl-cysteine, thiomalic acid, pantheatin, 2,3-dimercaptosuccinic acid, N- (mercaptoalkyl) - ⁇ -hydroxyalkylamides, N-mono- or N, N-dialkylmercapto-4-butyramides, aminomercapto-alkylamides, N- (mercaptoalkyl) succinamic acid derivatives and N- (mercaptoalkyl) succinimides, alkylamino mercaptoalkylamides, azeotropic mixture of thioglyconate of 2- hydroxy
- the non-thiolated organic reducing agents may be chosen from phosphines, sulphites, sulfinic compounds, borohydrides, reducing sugars and reductones.
- phosphine By way of example of phosphine, mention may be made of monophosphines or diphosphines as described in series FR2870119.
- sulfinic compounds By way of example of sulfinic compounds, mention may be made of the formamidine sulfinic acid derivatives.
- borohydride As an example of borohydride, mention may be made of sodium or potassium borohydride.
- reducing sugars By way of example of reducing sugars, mention may be made in a nonlimiting manner of ribose, glucose, maltose, galactose, lactose or xylose.
- reductones By way of example of reductones, mention may be made in a nonlimiting manner of ascorbic acid and erythorbic acid.
- inorganic or organic hydroxides are understood to mean the compounds of structure (X p + ) (OH " ) q
- the inorganic or organic hydroxides may be chosen from sodium hydroxide, lithium hydroxide, potassium hydroxide, calcium hydroxide and guanidine hydroxide.
- As precursors of organic hydroxides mention may be made of guanidine carbonate.
- the disrupting agent or agents of the disulfide bonds of keratin generally represent from 0.1% to 50%, preferably from 2% to 10%, by weight relative to the total weight of the composition (A).
- composition (A) used in the process according to the invention may comprise one or more co smetic active agents.
- This or these cosmetic active agents are generally chosen from anionic, cationic, nonionic, amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants, swelling and penetration agents, disulfide compounds of reducing agents, for example dithioglycolic acid, thickening polymers of natural or synthetic origin, fixing polymers, conditioning agents, such as cationic polymers, cations, cationic surfactants, silicones other than those of the invention and chitosans and their derivatives, hydrophobic solvents, fatty alcohols, direct dyes, in particular cationic or natural dyes, oxidation dyes, organic or inorganic pigments, UV filters, fillers, for example nacres, TiO 2 , resins and clays, perfumes, peptizers, vitamins, amino acids, preservatives and chelating agents.
- anionic, cationic, nonionic, amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants swelling and penetration agents
- disulfide compounds of reducing agents for example dithioglycolic
- compositions optionally present in the composition (A) used according to the invention are in particular the following: (i) Anionic active surfactant (s):
- anionic surfactants which may be used, alone or as mixtures, in the context of the present invention, mention may be made in particular (nonlimiting list) of the salts (in particular alkaline salts, in particular of sodium, ammonium salts, amine salts, aminoalcohol salts or magnesium salts) of the following compounds: alkyl sulphates, alkyl ether sulphates, such as sodium lauryl ether sulphate, alkyl amido ether sulphates, alkyl aryl ether lyesulfates, monoglyceride sulphates; alkylsulfonates, alkylphosphates, alkylamidesulfonates, alkylarylsulfonates, ⁇ -olefinsulfonates, paraffin sulfonates; (C 6 -C 24) alkylsulfosuccinates, (C 6 -C 24) alkylsulfosuccinates, (C 6 -C 24)
- alkyl polyglycoside carboxylic esters such as citrate alkylglucosides, tartrate alkylpolyglycosides and alkylpolyglycoside sulfosuccinates, alkylsulfosuccinamates; acylisethionates and N-acyltaurates, the alkyl or acyl radical of all these different compounds preferably comprising from 12 to 20 carbon atoms, and the aryl radical preferably denoting a phenyl or benzyl group.
- anionic surfactants that can still be used, mention may also be made of fatty acid salts such as the salts of oleic, ricinoleic, palmitic and stearic acids, coconut oil acid or hydrogenated coconut oil acid; acyl lactylates whose acyl radical has 8 to 20 carbon atoms.
- alkyl D galactoside uronic acids and their salts polyoxyalkylenated (C6-C24) ether carboxylic acids, polyoxyalkylenated (C 6 - C 24) aryl ether carboxylic acids, polyoxyalkylenated (C 6 - C24) polyoxyalkylenated carboxylic amido ether and their salts, in particular those containing from 2 to 50 alkylene oxide groups, in particular ethylene, and mixtures thereof.
- Nonionic surfactants are also well-known compounds per se (see in particular in this regard "Handbook of Surfactants” by MR PORTER, Blackie & Son editions (Glasgow and London), 1991, pp. 16-188). Thus, they may be chosen in particular from (non-limiting list) alcohols, alpha-diols, alkylphenols, lyoxylated, polypropoxylated, having a fatty chain comprising, for example, 8 to 18 carbon atoms, the number of oxide groups. ethylene or propylene oxide can go in particular from 2 to 50.
- polyethoxylated fatty amides preferably having from 2 to 30 moles of ethylene oxide, polyglycerolated fatty amides comprising on average 1 to 5 glycerol groups
- amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactant may be in particular (non-limiting list) derivatives of aliphatic secondary or tertiary amines, in which the aliphatic radical is a linear chain or branched having 8 to 18 carbon atoms and containing at least one anionic group water-solubilising (eg carboxylate, sulfonate, sulfate, phosphate or phosphonate); mention may also be made of (C 8 -C 20 ) alkylbetaines, such as coco-betaine, sulphobetaines, (C 8 -C 20 ) alkylamidoalkyl (C 1 -C 6 ) betaines or (C 8 -C 20 ) alkylamidoalkyl (C 1 -C 6 ) sulfobetaines.
- aliphatic secondary or tertiary amines in which the aliphatic radical is a linear chain or branched having 8 to 18 carbon atoms
- R 2 denotes a linear or branched C 5 -C 20 alkyl radical originating, for example, from an R 2 -COOH acid present in the hydrolyzed coconut oil, a heptyl, nonyl or undecyl radical, R 3 denotes a beta-hydroxyethyl group and R 4 a carboxymethyl group; R2'-CONHCH 2 CH 2 -N (B) (C)
- B represents -CH2CH2OX '
- X 'de notes the group -CH2CH2-COOH or a hydrogen atom
- Y * denotes -COOH or the radical -CH 2 - CHOH - SO3H
- Disodium Cocoamphodiacetate Disodium Lauroamphodiacetate, Disodium Caprylamphodiacetate, Disodium Capryloamphodiacetate, Disodium Cocoamphodipropionate, Disodium Lauroamphodipropionate, Disodium Caprylamphodipropionate, Disodium Capryloamphodipropionate, Lauroamphodipropionic Acid, Cocoamphodipropionic Acid .
- salts of primary, secondary or tertiary fatty amines, optionally polyoxyalkylenated quaternary ammonium salts such as tetraalkylammonium, alkylamidoalkyltrialkylammonium, trialkylbenzylammonium, trialkylhydroxyalkylammonium or alkylpyridinium chlorides or bromides; imidazoline derivatives; or oxides of amines with a cationic character.
- the thickener (s) optionally present in the composition (A) used according to the invention may be chosen from cellulose thickeners, for example hydroxyethylcellulose, hydroxypropylcellulose and carboxymethylcellulose, guar gum and its derivatives, for example. hydroxypropyl guar, sold by the company Rhodia under the reference Jaguar HP 105, gums of microbial origin, such as xanthan gum and scleroglucan gum, synthetic thickeners such as crosslinked homopolymers of acrylic acid.
- Carbomer, non-ionic, anionic, cationic or amphoteric associative polymers such as the polymers sold under the names Pemulen TR I or TR 2 by the company Goodrich, Salcare SC90 by the company Ciba, ACULYN 22, 28, 33, 44 or 46 by the company ROHM & HAAS and ELFACOS T210 and T212 by the company AKZO. Mention may also be made of thickening polymers of the po lyosidic type.
- the pH of the composition (A) preferably varies between 7 and 14,
- the pH varies from 8 to 9.5, when the composition (A) comprises a thio reducing agent.
- the pH varies from 1 to 14, when the composition (A) comprises an alkali metal hydroxide type.
- composition (A) can be in liquid form or in thickened form. It can be applied to the hot water bottle, brush, or directly to the tube.
- composition (A) is left for 5 minutes to 1 hour, preferably for 10 minutes to 30 minutes.
- the hair can be rinsed, preferably with water.
- the oxidizing composition (B) used in the process according to the invention generally comprises one or more oxidizing agents chosen from hydrogen peroxide, alkaline bromates, polythionates, persalts, such as perborates, percarbonates and persulfates, metal salts adsorbed or not, enzymes of the family of oxidases with 2 electrons.
- oxidizing agents chosen from hydrogen peroxide, alkaline bromates, polythionates, persalts, such as perborates, percarbonates and persulfates, metal salts adsorbed or not, enzymes of the family of oxidases with 2 electrons.
- the oxidizing agent is hydrogen peroxide in the form of hydrogen peroxide or alkaline bromates.
- the oxidizing agent is hydrogen peroxide in the form of hydrogen peroxide.
- the oxidizing agent (s) generally represent from 0.1% to 8%, preferably from 0.2% to 5%, by weight relative to the total weight of the oxidizing composition (B).
- the oxidizing composition used in the process according to the invention contains at least one stabilizing agent for hydrogen peroxide.
- pyrophosphates of alkali or alkaline earth metals such as tetrasodium pyrophosphate, stannates of alkali or alkaline earth metals, phenacetin or salts of acids and oxyquinoline, such as sodium sulfate. oxyquinine (8-hydroxyquinoline sulfate). More advantageously still, at least one stannate is used in combination or not with at least one pyrophosphate.
- the stabilizing agent (s) for hydrogen peroxide generally represent from 0.0001% to 5% by weight and preferably from 0.01 to 2% by weight relative to the total weight of the oxidizing composition (B).
- the oxidizing composition (B) used in the process according to the invention may also comprise one or more cosmetic active agents, such as those mentioned above with respect to the composition (A).
- the oxidizing composition may be in liquid form or in thickened form.
- the pH of the oxidizing composition ranges from 1 to
- the pH of the oxidizing composition (B) preferably varies from 1.5 to 5. Generally, the oxidizing composition (B) is left for 5 minutes to 1 hour, preferably for 10 minutes to 30 minutes.
- the cosmetically acceptable medium of compositions (A) and (B) and optionally (C) used in the process according to the invention is preferably an aqueous medium consisting of water and may advantageously contain one or more acceptable organic solvents.
- organic solvents such as ethyl alcohol, isopropyl alcohol, benzyl alcohol, and phenylethyl alcohol, or polyols or polyol ethers such as, for example, glycerol, monomethyl, monoethyl and monobutyl ethers of ethylene glycol, propylene glycol or its ethers such as, for example, propylene glycol monomethyl ether, butylene glycol, dipropylene glycol and diethylene glycol alkyl ethers such as, for example, monoethyl ether or monobutyl ether diethylene glycol.
- the organic solvents may then be present in concentrations of from about 0.1 to 20% and preferably from about 1 to 10% by weight based on the total weight of the composition.
- the composition is in the form of a solution, a dispersion or an emulsion.
- the reducing composition is in the form of a dispersion. It is then agitated before use.
- the reducing composition may also be in the form of an emulsion sufficiently homogeneous to be applied directly to the hair.
- the pH of the compositions (A), (B) and (C) used in the process according to the invention can be obtained and / or adjusted conventionally by adding either alkaline agents, such as, for example, ammonia, monoethanolamine, diethanolamine, triethanolamine, isopropanolamine, 1,3-propanediamine, an alkaline or ammonium carbonate or bicarbonate, all these compounds can of course be taken alone or as a mixture, or acidifying agents such as, for example, hydrochloric acid, acetic acid, lactic acid, boric acid, citric acid and phosphoric acid.
- alkaline agents such as, for example, ammonia, monoethanolamine, diethanolamine, triethanolamine, isopropanolamine, 1,3-propanediamine, an alkaline or ammonium carbonate or bicarbonate, all these compounds can of course be taken alone or as a mixture
- acidifying agents such as, for example, hydrochloric acid, acetic acid, lactic acid, boric acid, citric acid
- the method according to the invention comprises a step of heating the hair at a temperature ranging from 60 to 220 ° C, after application of the silicone or silicones (i).
- the heating step is carried out after the application of the compositions (A) or (B). This heating step can also be performed after the application of an intermediate composition if it does not contain silicones (i).
- the heating step is carried out after the application of the compositions (C) or (B).
- the heating step is carried out after the application of the composition (B).
- the step of heating the hair can be performed by drying the hair and / or by passing a heating tool.
- the heating step may be carried out by means of a hair dryer, a helmet, heating curlers, a straightener, a curling iron, a crimping iron, a wispy iron, an infra-red lamp, an exothermic system in the composition.
- the heating step is performed by means of a smoothing iron.
- the step of heating the hair is carried out at a temperature ranging from 80 to 220 ° C, preferably from 100 to 220 ° C, more preferably from 100 to 180 ° C.
- the method according to the invention comprises, after the oxidation fixing step, and after a possible exposure time, a step of rinsing the hair, preferably with water.
- a particular method according to the invention consists in applying several times the formulation containing at least one mercaptosiloxane with a mass of less than 10,000, possibly by interposing one or more cosmetic treatments, in particular a shampoo, until the desired intensity of treatment is obtained.
- the composition (A) containing one or more reducing agents as defined above is applied to dry or wet hair, optionally shampooed, previously wound on rolls having 2 to 30 mm in diameter.
- the composition can also be applied as the hair is rolled up.
- the reducing composition is then allowed to act for a period of 5 minutes to 1 hour, preferably for 5 to 30 minutes. We can then rinse.
- an intermediate composition (C) rinsed or not is applied.
- an oxidizing composition (B) for reforming the disulfide bonds of keratin generally for a time of exposure of 1 minute to one hour.
- the hair is usually rinsed thoroughly, preferably with water.
- a terminal shampoo can be performed.
- the step of heating the hair at a temperature ranging from 60 to 220 ° C is carried out as indicated above.
- composition (A) containing one or more reducing agents or one or more inorganic or organic hydroxides or their precursors is applied to the dry or wet hair.
- the composition (A) is optionally left for a period of 5 minutes to 1 hour, preferably for 5 to 30 minutes, then rinsed to remove the composition (A).
- the hair is smoothed or decreed generally with the aid of a comb. We can then rinse.
- an intermediate composition (C) rinsed or not is applied.
- composition (A) comprising one or more reducing agents
- oxidizing composition (B) as defined above is applied, which is generally allowed to act for 1 minute to one hour, then rinse the hair usually, usually with water.
- a terminal shampoo may be optionally performed.
- the step of heating the hair at a temperature ranging from 60 to 220 ° C is carried out as indicated above.
- the object of the invention is also to use the cosmetic treatment method as described above to obtain a smooth feel of the hair, an increase in the lightness of the hair and a control of the volume of the hair at humidity.
- the invention is further obj and a first multi-compartment device or kit, comprising;
- a first compartment comprising a composition (A) comprising one or more thio or other nonionic reducing agents,
- a second compartment comprising an oxidizing composition (B) and
- a third compartment comprising a composition (C) containing one or more silicones of molecular weight less than 10,000 and functionalized with one or more mercapto groups as defined above.
- Another object of the invention is a second multi-compartment device or kit, comprising:
- a first compartment comprising a composition (A) comprising one or more thiolated or non-thioated reducing agents, and one or more silicones with a molecular weight of less than 10,000 and functionalized with one or more mercapto groups as defined above, and
- a second compartment comprising an oxidizing composition (B).
- the subject of the invention is also a cosmetic composition
- a cosmetic composition comprising
- one or more agents breaking the disulfide bonds of keratin breaking the disulfide bonds of keratin.
- the invention finally has obj and a cosmetic composition comprising
- one or more silicones with a molecular weight of less than 10,000 and functionalized with one or more mercapto groups corresponding to the formula
- composition in a content ranging from 2 to 9% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition and one or more disulfide bond breakers of keratin in a content ranging from 0.5 to 3% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
- the disrupting agent or agents of the disulfide bonds of the hair keratin are chosen from thio reducing agents, non-thio reducing agents, mineral or organic hydroxides and / or their precursors.
- compositions whose formulations are given in the table below are prepared.
- the contents are expressed as a percentage by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
- compositions of Examples 1 to 4 are compositions according to the invention.
- composition is applied to a 2.7g brown Caucasian lock according to the following protocol:
- the locks are evaluated sensory according to the criteria of smooth, regularity of the fiber and sensation of decrease of the mass.
- Moisture resistance (evolution of wick moisture volume) is also evaluated by the following test: the wicks are placed in a glove box at 80% humidity at 20 ° C for 17 hours. . The shots of the wicks at the initial time and after 17 hours at 80% humidity at 20 ° C. are compared.
- the locks are evaluated after the application according to the protocol defined above, then after 5 shampoos, then after 1 0 shampoos.
- the locks treated with the compositions of Examples 1 to 4 have a smooth, even feel and a reduction in the sensation of hair mass, after application and after 5 shampoos.
- the wick treated with the composition according to Example 3 was evaluated sensitively by a panel of 7 experts compared to a wick which has not undergone any treatment. Seven out of seven experts evaluate the treated wick as being more refined, smoother and more homogeneous than a wick which has not undergone a cosmetic treatment.
- a wick treated with the control composition 1, which contains no reducing agent, has a smooth feel, but does not exhibit resistance to moisture.
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Abstract
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Priority Applications (4)
Application Number | Priority Date | Filing Date | Title |
---|---|---|---|
EP10757594A EP2482792A1 (fr) | 2009-09-29 | 2010-09-23 | Procede de deformation permanente des cheveux au moyen d'un mercaptosiloxane, utilisation et composition |
MX2012003531A MX338545B (es) | 2009-09-29 | 2010-09-23 | Procedimiento de deformacion permanente del cabello por medio de un mercaptosiloxano, utilizacion y composicion. |
US13/499,264 US20120247500A1 (en) | 2009-09-29 | 2010-09-23 | Process for permanently reshaping hair using mercaptosiloxane composition |
BR112012006938A BR112012006938A2 (pt) | 2009-09-29 | 2010-09-23 | processo de tratamento cosmético dos cabelos utilização do processo, dispositivos com vários compartimentos e composições cosméticas |
Applications Claiming Priority (4)
Application Number | Priority Date | Filing Date | Title |
---|---|---|---|
FR0956762 | 2009-09-29 | ||
FR0956762A FR2950529B1 (fr) | 2009-09-29 | 2009-09-29 | Procede de deformation permanente des cheveux au moyen d'un mercaptosiloxane, utilisation et composition |
US25138409P | 2009-10-14 | 2009-10-14 | |
US61/251,384 | 2009-10-14 |
Publications (1)
Publication Number | Publication Date |
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WO2011039097A1 true WO2011039097A1 (fr) | 2011-04-07 |
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Application Number | Title | Priority Date | Filing Date |
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PCT/EP2010/064031 WO2011039097A1 (fr) | 2009-09-29 | 2010-09-23 | Procede de deformation permanente des cheveux au moyen d'un mercaptosiloxane, utilisation et composition |
Country Status (6)
Country | Link |
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US (1) | US20120247500A1 (fr) |
EP (1) | EP2482792A1 (fr) |
BR (1) | BR112012006938A2 (fr) |
FR (1) | FR2950529B1 (fr) |
MX (1) | MX338545B (fr) |
WO (1) | WO2011039097A1 (fr) |
Cited By (1)
Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
---|---|---|---|---|
WO2013092779A2 (fr) | 2011-12-20 | 2013-06-27 | L'oreal | Composition cosmétique comprenant au moins une silicone fonctionnalisée avec un ou plusieurs groupes mercapto et au moins un sel hygroscopique |
Families Citing this family (16)
Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
---|---|---|---|---|
US9884002B2 (en) | 2013-06-28 | 2018-02-06 | L'oreal | Compositions and methods for treating hair |
US9789051B2 (en) | 2013-06-28 | 2017-10-17 | L'oreal | Compositions and methods for treating hair |
US9884003B2 (en) | 2013-06-28 | 2018-02-06 | L'oreal | Compositions and methods for treating hair |
US9788627B2 (en) | 2013-06-28 | 2017-10-17 | L'oreal | Compositions and methods for treating hair |
US9795555B2 (en) | 2013-06-28 | 2017-10-24 | L'oreal | Compositions and methods for treating hair |
US9839600B2 (en) | 2013-06-28 | 2017-12-12 | L'oreal | Compositions and methods for treating hair |
US9884004B2 (en) | 2013-06-28 | 2018-02-06 | L'oreal | Compositions and methods for treating hair |
US9789050B2 (en) | 2013-06-28 | 2017-10-17 | L'oreal | Compositions and methods for treating hair |
US9801804B2 (en) | 2013-06-28 | 2017-10-31 | L'oreal | Compositions and methods for treating hair |
US9795556B2 (en) | 2013-06-28 | 2017-10-24 | L'oreal | Compositions and methods for treating hair |
US9801808B2 (en) | 2014-12-19 | 2017-10-31 | Loreal | Hair styling compositions comprising latex polymers and wax dispersions |
US9814669B2 (en) | 2014-12-19 | 2017-11-14 | L'oreal | Hair cosmetic composition containing latex polymers and a silicone-organic polymer compound |
US10195122B2 (en) | 2014-12-19 | 2019-02-05 | L'oreal | Compositions and methods for hair |
US9814668B2 (en) | 2014-12-19 | 2017-11-14 | L'oreal | Hair styling compositions comprising latex polymers |
US9750678B2 (en) | 2014-12-19 | 2017-09-05 | L'oreal | Hair coloring compositions comprising latex polymers |
US10813853B2 (en) | 2014-12-30 | 2020-10-27 | L'oreal | Compositions and methods for hair |
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US2528378A (en) | 1947-09-20 | 1950-10-31 | John J Mccabe Jr | Metal salts of substituted quaternary hydroxy cycloimidinic acid metal alcoholates and process for preparation of same |
US2781354A (en) | 1956-03-26 | 1957-02-12 | John J Mccabe Jr | Imidazoline derivatives and process |
GB1182939A (en) | 1966-07-01 | 1970-03-04 | Dow Corning | A Method for Treating Hair |
GB1199776A (en) * | 1966-07-07 | 1970-07-22 | Dow Corning | Organosilicon Co-Polymers |
EP0295780A1 (fr) | 1987-06-13 | 1988-12-21 | Dow Corning Limited | Méthode et composition pour le traitement des cheveux |
US5776454A (en) | 1996-09-13 | 1998-07-07 | Dow Corning Corporation | Permanent waving with mercaptosilicones |
FR2870119A1 (fr) | 2004-05-17 | 2005-11-18 | Oreal | Utilisation pour le decapage de la couleur artificielle des fibres keratiniques d'une composition comprenant au moins une phosphine a titre d'agent reducteur majoritaire |
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NL120222C (fr) * | 1960-04-15 | |||
FR2663845B1 (fr) * | 1990-07-02 | 1994-01-07 | Oreal | Composition cosmetique reductrice pour permanente contenant un derive d'acide n-(mercapto alkyl) succinamique ou de n-(mercapto alkyl) succinimide, et son utilisation dans un procede de deformation permanente des cheveux. |
US6125856A (en) * | 1999-04-21 | 2000-10-03 | Phild Co., Ltd. | Hair repair, styling, and straightening process |
-
2009
- 2009-09-29 FR FR0956762A patent/FR2950529B1/fr active Active
-
2010
- 2010-09-23 US US13/499,264 patent/US20120247500A1/en not_active Abandoned
- 2010-09-23 BR BR112012006938A patent/BR112012006938A2/pt not_active IP Right Cessation
- 2010-09-23 EP EP10757594A patent/EP2482792A1/fr not_active Withdrawn
- 2010-09-23 WO PCT/EP2010/064031 patent/WO2011039097A1/fr active Application Filing
- 2010-09-23 MX MX2012003531A patent/MX338545B/es active IP Right Grant
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Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
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US2528378A (en) | 1947-09-20 | 1950-10-31 | John J Mccabe Jr | Metal salts of substituted quaternary hydroxy cycloimidinic acid metal alcoholates and process for preparation of same |
US2781354A (en) | 1956-03-26 | 1957-02-12 | John J Mccabe Jr | Imidazoline derivatives and process |
GB1182939A (en) | 1966-07-01 | 1970-03-04 | Dow Corning | A Method for Treating Hair |
GB1199776A (en) * | 1966-07-07 | 1970-07-22 | Dow Corning | Organosilicon Co-Polymers |
EP0295780A1 (fr) | 1987-06-13 | 1988-12-21 | Dow Corning Limited | Méthode et composition pour le traitement des cheveux |
US5776454A (en) | 1996-09-13 | 1998-07-07 | Dow Corning Corporation | Permanent waving with mercaptosilicones |
FR2870119A1 (fr) | 2004-05-17 | 2005-11-18 | Oreal | Utilisation pour le decapage de la couleur artificielle des fibres keratiniques d'une composition comprenant au moins une phosphine a titre d'agent reducteur majoritaire |
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Cited By (1)
Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
---|---|---|---|---|
WO2013092779A2 (fr) | 2011-12-20 | 2013-06-27 | L'oreal | Composition cosmétique comprenant au moins une silicone fonctionnalisée avec un ou plusieurs groupes mercapto et au moins un sel hygroscopique |
Also Published As
Publication number | Publication date |
---|---|
BR112012006938A2 (pt) | 2019-09-24 |
US20120247500A1 (en) | 2012-10-04 |
FR2950529B1 (fr) | 2013-02-22 |
MX338545B (es) | 2016-04-20 |
FR2950529A1 (fr) | 2011-04-01 |
MX2012003531A (es) | 2012-04-10 |
EP2482792A1 (fr) | 2012-08-08 |
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