WO2011015796A2

WO2011015796A2 - Combination of a visible radiation and a peptide agent increasing the expression of a substrate of cytochrome c oxidase, in particular for improving the appearance of the skin and/or hair

Info

Publication number: WO2011015796A2
Application number: PCT/FR2010/051670
Authority: WO
Inventors: Julien Laboureau; Quang Lan Nguyen; Dang-Man Pham
Original assignee: L'oreal
Priority date: 2009-08-07
Filing date: 2010-08-06
Publication date: 2011-02-10
Also published as: WO2011015796A3; FR2948876B1; FR2948876A1

Abstract

The present invention more specifically relates to a cosmetic treatment method, in particular for improving the appearance of the skin and/or hair, including simultaneously and/or consecutively administering: at least one peptide agent increasing the expression of at least one substrate of cytochrome C oxidase, and optionally at least one substrate of cytochrome C oxidase; and at least one visible radiation having a predominant wavelength activating the cytochrome C oxidase. In particular, said visible radiation has at least one predominant wavelength activating the cytochrome C oxidase of 550 to 1000 nm, in particular 550 to 800 nm, preferably 620 to 700 nm, and most preferably 640 to 680 nm, and is preferably used at a dose of 0.01 to 200 J/cm², preferably 0.1 to 30 J/cm², more preferably 1 to 30 J/cm², or even 5 to 30 J/cm². The invention also relates to a composition and to a kit.

Description

Association of a light radiation and a peptide-type agent increasing the expression of a cytochrome C oxidase substrate, in particular to improve the appearance of the skin and / or the hair

The present invention relates to the field of care of the skin and / or hair and in particular the improvement of the appearance of the skin and / or hair by light radiation. By 'skin' is meant the skin of the face and / or body as well as the scalp.

The present invention relates more specifically to a cosmetic treatment method intended in particular to improve the appearance of the skin and / or the hair, comprising the simultaneous and / or sequential administration:

at least one peptide-like agent increasing the expression of at least one cytochrome C oxidase substrate, and optionally at least one cytochrome C oxidase substrate; and

at least one light radiation having at least one predominant wavelength activating cytochrome C oxidase.

The cosmetic treatment method according to the present invention comprises, in particular, the simultaneous and / or sequential administration to a subject, in particular to a subject with healthy skin:

"Healthy skin" means skin that does not show any lesion and / or infection.

In particular, said light radiation according to the invention has (emits) at least one predominant wavelength activating cytochrome C oxidase ranging from (between) 550 to 1000 nm (red and infra-red emission spectrum), in particular from 550 to

800 nm, preferably from 620 to 700 nm, and even more preferably from 640 to 680nm; and is preferably used at a dose ranging from 0.01 to 200 J / cm ² , preferably from 0.1 to 30 J / cm ² , more preferably from 1 to 30 J / cm ² , or even from 5 to 30 J / cm ² .

The invention also relates to a composition comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium:

at least one peptide-like agent increasing the expression of at least one cytochrome C oxidase substrate, and optionally at least one cytochrome C oxidase substrate, and

at least one emitting and / or filtering compound, especially under light exposure, a light radiation having at least one predominant wavelength activating Cytochrome C oxidase.

The invention also relates to a kit which will be detailed below. According to a first alternative, the methods, compositions, and kits according to the present invention will implement the peptide-type agent increasing the expression of at least one cytochrome C oxidase substrate in the absence of substrate addition. cytochrome C oxidase.

According to another optional alternative, the methods, compositions, and kits according to the present invention will implement the agent of peptide nature increasing the expression of at least one cytochrome C oxidase substrate with, in addition, at least one substrate of the cytochrome C oxidase.

Maintaining a youthful appearance and / or healthy skin and / or hair leads to the unceasing search for new compounds and / or new non-invasive methods of treatment to maintain or improve the appearance of the skin and / or hair.

For a few years, we have been turning to aesthetic treatments using visible light and / or infrared light, laser, LED, etc. In particular, we speak of 'photocosmetic treatment'.

In particular, the use by dermatologists and beauticians of lasers and IPL (Intense Pulsed Light) is known to treat the signs of skin aging, in particular wrinkles, but these technologies are susceptible, under certain conditions (high intensity and / or long duration). treatment) to generate damage to the dermis, which can cause erythema, edema or pain. The use of the LED (Light-emitting diode) which specifically activates, for a given wavelength, chromophores or cellular acceptors in the cutaneous tissue, and thereby initiates a cascade of biological metabolisms intended for revitalize / improve / regenerate / stimulate the functionality and appearance of the skin.

The application WO2004 / 075985 describes in particular treatment methods using defined light radiation in the visible and / or infra-red, optionally in combination with a photosensitizing active, to reduce wrinkles, rejuvenate the skin, promote healing and tissue repair, treat hypopigmentary disorders. It is described the repeated and controlled application in several stages of light radiation, over periods of several hours.

Moreover, agents of a peptide nature, for example the hydrolysates of vegetable proteins or certain specific peptides, are known to increase the expression of cytochrome C.

Thus, the applications FR 2915381, FR 2915380, FR 2915382 and FR 2915385 respectively describe a hydrolyzate of soy protein, rice, corn, amaranth, and the application FR 2915393 describing activator peptides.

However, there remains the need to develop systems that are easy to implement and do not have the skin damage that can be generated by excessive application (nature of the light source, intensity, duration) of light radiation.

This is what the Applicant has achieved by combining the administration of at least one peptide-like agent increasing the expression of a substrate of Cytochrome C oxidase and optionally at least one substrate of cytochrome C oxidase, and at least one light radiation having at least one predominant wavelength activating cytochrome C oxidase.

This combination advantageously makes it possible to reduce the duration and / or the intensity of the light radiation administered while keeping a good efficiency.

The Applicant has discovered, surprisingly and unexpectedly, that the administration of a peptide-type agent increasing the expression of a substrate of Cytochrome C oxidase (and optionally at least one cytochrome C oxidase substrate) associated with light radiation having at least one predominant wavelength ranging from 550 to 800 nm (emission spectrum of red light) led to an activity increased this enzyme and allowed to ensure the proper functioning of the mitochondrial respiratory chain, to increase the production of energy and thus in particular to fight against the signs of aging and dehydration of the skin and / or hair. The proper functioning of the respiratory chain also ensures in return a better protection against the alterations induced by UV radiation.

Cytochrome C oxidase is present in the different cell types of skin and hair.

It is known to be involved in energy metabolism in the mitochondrial respiratory chain or redox chain, which controls the energy level, metabolism and homeostasis of cells.

This enzyme is a photoacceptor activated by red light: when photons are absorbed by the redox chain, they transfer their energy to the respiratory system leading, via the electrochemical potential change of the photoactivated cell and the Ca-mediated intracellular signal transduction. ²⁺ and cAMP, to a cascade of events in the cell (DNA and RNA synthesis, proliferative cell activity) and energy production in the form of ATP.

This enzyme has the capacity to catalyze the transfer of electrons to molecular oxygen to transform it into water molecules without forming harmful intermediate free radicals to the cell, according to the following scheme:

Diagram of the reaction leading to the production of ATP and water molecules from oxygen CytC oxidase

Cytochrome C, one of its substrates, is a small 15kDa heme protein with a protoporphyrinic IX catalytic site containing iron associated with the inner mitochondrial membrane. It is a soluble protein, unlike the others cytochromes. It is an essential component of the respiratory chain. Cytochrome C is a highly conserved protein across the spectrum of species, found in plants, animals, and many single-celled organisms. It is known analogues, known as cytochrome C1, C2 and C3.

It is also known that the number of mutations in the mitochondrial DNA of cutaneous cells, in particular fibroblasts, increases with age, especially at the level of coding sequences for cytochrome oxidase (GS Gerhard et al., Mechanisms of Ageing and development, 123, 2002: 155-166), which has the effect of altering energy production and decreasing the overall metabolism of skin cells.

UV radiation is also responsible for an increase in mutations in the DNA of the mitochondrial genome, especially in DNA sequences encoding proteins involved in the mitochondrial respiratory chain. The alteration of these proteins leads to a decrease of the oxygen consumption, a variation of the membrane potential, a decrease of the production of ATP and an increase of the synthesis of the MMPs. These mechanisms result in particular in a loss of hydration in the cells of the skin, collagen degradation and a decrease in energy metabolism of the cells.

The combination according to the invention therefore makes it possible to maintain the energetic stock (ATP) of the cells and a production of water molecules so that all the cellular functions are ensured.

The invention thus relates to the combination of at least one peptide-like agent increasing the expression of at least one cytochrome C oxidase substrate, and optionally at least one cytochrome C oxidase substrate, with at least one light radiation having at least one predominant wavelength activating cytochrome C oxidase, in particular light radiation having at least one predominant wavelength ranging from 550 to 1000 nm (emission spectrum of red light and / or below red), in a cosmetic treatment process, a composition, or a kit intended in particular to improve the appearance of the skin and / or the hair.

The peptide-like agent increasing the expression of the substrate of cytochrome C oxidase, and optionally the substrate of cytochrome C oxidase, can be formulated in a composition for topical and / or oral administration.

The light radiation having at least one predominant wavelength activating cytochrome C oxidase, may be in the form of a device, or alternatively, in the form of a compound capable of emitting and / or leaving specifically pass, especially under light exposure, a light radiation having at least one predominant wavelength activating cytochrome C oxidase. In the latter case, said compound emitting and / or filtering said cytochrome C oxidase-activating light radiation can be formulated in the same composition as the peptide-type agent increasing the expression of at least one cytochrome C oxidase substrate and optionally the substrate of cytochrome C oxidase, or in a separate composition.

The invention therefore relates in particular to a cosmetic process intended in particular to improve the appearance of the skin and / or the hair, comprising the simultaneous and / or sequential administration:

a) at least one peptide-like agent increasing the expression of at least one cytochrome C oxidase substrate, and optionally at least one cytochrome C oxidase substrate; and

b) at least one light radiation having at least one predominant wavelength activating cytochrome C oxidase. Advantageously, all the cosmetic processes according to the present invention are implemented on subjects with healthy skin.

By "light radiation having at least one predominant wavelength" is meant according to the invention a light radiation distinct from the white light comprising all the wavelengths of the spectrum. In particular, we mean light radiation having a wavelength that predominates the others, that is to say the one having the maximum intensity (optimal peak).

More precisely, by light radiation having at least one predominant wavelength ranging from 550 to 1000 nm, according to the invention is meant a light radiation whose wavelength predominates the others, that is to say the one with the maximum instability (optimal peak) is between 550 and 1000 nm. Thus, according to the present invention, when the light radiation is polychromatic, its predominant wavelength will be between 550 and 1000 nm, in particular between 620 and 700 nm, and even more preferably between 640 and 680 nm. When the light radiation is monochromatic, its wavelength will be between 550 and 1000 nm, in particular between 620 and 700 nm, and even more preferably between 640 and 680 nm.

It is known that each wavelength has a specific target in the cells of the skin and / or hair, called a chromophore or photoacceptor.

The Applicant has indeed shown that certain wavelengths were capable of activating cytochrome C oxidase, while others had no effect or were likely to inhibit it.

Preferably, the light radiation has at least one predominant wavelength ranging from 550 to 1000 nm (emission spectrum of 550-800 nm red light and 800-1000 nm infra-red).

In particular, the light radiation has at least one predominant wavelength ranging from 550 to 800 nm (emission spectrum of red light), in particular from 620 to 700 nm, and even more preferably from 640 to 680 nm.

In particular, light radiation whose emission spectrum has an optimum peak (maximum intensity) around 660 nm, preferably around 660 nm +/- 100 nm, in particular around 660 nm +/- 40 nm, will be used. and most preferably around 660 nm +/- 15 nm.

More particularly, light radiation having at least one predominant wavelength ranging from 550 to 800 nm, and preferably having an intensity maximun (optimal peak) around 660 nm, in particular around 660 nm + /, will be used. - 40 nm.

According to one preferred embodiment, the light radiation exhibiting at least one predominant wavelength activating cytochrome C oxidase is applied to the skin and / or the hair, in particular at the level of the skin and / or hair zones treated with a composition. comprising at least one peptide-like agent increasing the expression of at least one cytochrome C oxidase substrate, and optionally at least one cytochrome C oxidase substrate, at a dose ranging from 0.01 to 200 J / cm 2, preferably from 0.1 to 30J / cm 2.

"Sequential" means a successive (immediate) or delayed administration. In the case of delayed administration, the admission of light radiation may take place a few minutes, hours, days or weeks after administration of the peptide-type agent according to the invention and optionally at least one substrate of cytochrome C oxidase.

By way of example, the delayed delivery of the light radiation may take place 24 to 48 hours after administration of the peptide-type agent according to the invention.

According to a preferred embodiment, the peptide-type agent according to the invention will be administered twice daily (every 12 hours) and the light radiation will be applied once a day.

In the case of sequential administration and advantageously, the agent of peptide nature increasing the expression of the cytochrome C oxidase substrate, and optionally the substrate of cytochrome C oxidase, is administered before the administration of the light radiation exhibiting at least one predominant wavelength activating the cytochrome C oxidase, but said agent of peptide nature and optionally said substrate can (may) also and in a complementary manner be administered after a substrate session + light radiation having at least one length predominant wave activating cytochrome C oxidase.

According to a particular embodiment, the light radiation having at least one predominant wavelength activating cytochrome C oxidase is a compound emitting and / or filtering, especially under light or UV exposure, said light radiation activating cytochrome C oxidase; said compound may be formulated in the composition comprising said peptide-enhancing agent increasing the expression of the cytochrome C oxidase substrate and optionally the cytochrome C oxidase substrate, or else in another topical composition intended to be applied in an off-set manner ( before or after).

According to another embodiment, a patch, in particular iontophoretic, impregnated with at least one peptide-like agent increasing the expression of at least one cytochrome C oxidase substrate and optionally a substrate of cytochrome C oxidase, is used. and provided with diodes emitting said light radiation activating cytochrome C oxidase.

The implementation of the method according to the invention may further comprise a step prior to or concomitant with the steps of the method according to the invention, aimed at improving the penetration of the peptide-type agent increasing the expression of at least one substrate. cytochrome C oxidase and optionally the cytochrome C substrate oxidase, for example by cooling the skin, by iontophoresis, or by an occlusive system.

It is also possible to promote the penetration of the peptide-like agent increasing the expression of at least one cytochrome C oxidase substrate and optionally the cytochrome C oxidase substrate, by practicing a prior chemical or mechanical peel on the zone to be treated. treat.

Such an association according to the invention has the effect of ensuring the proper functioning of the mitochondrial respiratory chain, and thus enables the production of energy to be increased and, in particular, to combat the signs of aging and cellular dehydration at the level of the skin and / or hair. The combination according to the invention therefore makes it possible in particular to maintain and / or improve the energetic metabolism of the cells of the skin and / or the hair; maintain and / or improve the hydration of the skin and / or the hair; maintain and / or improve the biomechanical properties of the skin (elasticity, firmness, tonicity); to prevent and / or treat the signs of aging of the skin and / or the hair; improve the skin barrier function; promote the regeneration of dermal and / or epidermal cells, in particular to prevent and / or improve the surface state of cracks and / or frostbites, for example linked to a deficiency of cellular oxygenation (ischemic cellular situations caused in particular by the cold and altitude). The method according to the invention aims to:

to improve the hydration of the skin and / or the hair; and or

improve the skin barrier function; and or

to promote the regeneration of dermal and / or epidermal cells, in particular to improve the surface condition of cracks and / or frostbites, and / or to prevent and / or fight against the signs of aging of the skin and / or the hair; and or

prevent and / or treat hair loss, slowing down their growth, graying them, reducing their diameter, their vigor.

According to one particular embodiment, the method according to the invention aims at improving the hydration of the skin and / or the hair. According to another mode, the method according to the invention aims to improve the skin barrier function.

According to yet another embodiment, the process according to the invention aims at promoting the regeneration of dermal and / or epidermal cells, in particular improving the surface state of cracks and / or frostbites.

The method according to the invention is also intended to prevent and / or fight against the signs of aging of the skin and / or hair.

In particular, the method according to the invention aims at attenuating the visible or tactile irregularities of the surface of the skin, in particular attenuating the wrinkles and fine lines, attenuating the cutaneous spots, reducing the alterations of the microrelief and / or smoothing the skin, promoting the regeneration of the skin tissue, lighten the complexion and / or improve the dullness of the complexion, maintain and / or improve the biomechanical properties of the skin (elasticity, firmness, tone), maintain and / or improve the skin hydration , and / or maintain and / or improve the grain of the skin.

It also aims to prevent and / or treat hair loss, slowing down their growth, their graying, the decrease in their diameter, their vigor.

AGENTS OF PEPTIDE NATURE INCREASING THE EXPRESSION OF AT LEAST ONE SUBSTRATE OF CYTOCHROME C OXIDASE

In the context of the present invention, the term "agent of peptidic nature increasing the expression of at least one substrate of cytochrome C oxidase", any agent of peptide nature capable of increasing the expression of at least one cytochrome C oxidase substrate, in particular, by activation of the protein synthesis of the Cytochrome C oxidase substrate (in particular via regulation of the gene encoding said substrate).

In the context of the present invention, the term "agent of peptidic nature increasing the expression of cytochrome C" any agent of a peptide nature capable of increasing the expression of cytochrome C in particular, by activation of the protein synthesis of Cytochrome C (in particular via regulation of the gene coding for the Cytochrome C protein). In the context of the present invention, the term "agent of peptide nature" is understood to mean a hydrolyzate of proteins, preferably plant proteins, a peptide comprising from 2 to 50 amino acids, preferably from 3 to 20 amino acids and more preferably from 5 to 10 amino acids ; or their mixtures.

In the context of the present invention, as agent of peptide nature increasing the expression of at least one substrate of cytochrome C oxidase, mention may be made preferably of a peptide-like agent increasing the expression of cytochrome C. Aggressively, the agent of peptide nature according to the invention is rich in peptides biomimetic proteins of the mitochondrial respiratory chain.

According to one embodiment of the present invention, the agent of peptide nature increasing the expression of at least one substrate of cytochrome C oxidase, and in particular cytochrome C, is a peptide-like extract originating from hydrolysis. vegetable protein (vegetable protein hydrolyzate). It thus contains mainly polypeptides or peptides.

The vegetable protein hydrolyzate may be obtained by conventional techniques known to those skilled in the art.

In particular it can be obtained according to one of the techniques described in the application FR 2 915 381. Preferably, it will be obtained according to the method described in one or the other of Examples 1 and 2 of the application FR 2 915 381 incorporated herein by reference.

Generally, vegetable proteins are extracted from the plant (seed or any other part of the plant) according to methods known to those skilled in the art. Advantageously, they will be extracted from the grain, and preferentially grain freed from its envelope by a dehulling step. The hydrolysis can then be carried out according to several methods known to those skilled in the art. The hydrolysis will preferably be arranged. The soy proteins thus extracted can be brought into contact with an enzymatic cocktail in the presence of water so that they are hydrolyzed, and then a filtration is carried out in order to separate the hydrolyzate.

Among the enzymes that may be mentioned are endoproteases of plant origin (papain, bromelain, ficin). Hydrolysis can also be done using microorganisms (Aspergillus, Rhizopus, Bacillus). Also, the hydrolysis can take place on a crude extract. This will then follow a purification of the peptide fragments.

Any plant source can be implemented in the present invention.

Preferably, the protein hydrolysates will be chosen from hydrolysates of rice, corn, soybean (Glycine max L.), linseed, amaranth, preferably soybean (Glycine max L.) proteins.

There may be mentioned in particular the activator of cytochrome C, otherwise called Cytochrome c-inducing active ingredient (Cl) proposed by Vincience and capable of increasing the expression of cytochrome C and the activity of cytochrome C oxidase (A. Perrin et al., Vincience, SID May 2007).

As a peptide-like agent increasing the expression of cytochrome C, mention may also be made of:

an extract of a peptic nature originating from the hydrolysis of rice proteins or rice protein hydrolyzate (in particular Oryza saliva L.) such as that described in application FR 2 915 380 incorporated herein by reference or such as those marketed by the companies Pentapharm and Silab under the respective names Colhibin ^® and Nutripeptides ^® GR;

an extract of a peptic nature originating from the hydrolysis of soy protein or hydrolyzate of soy protein (Glycine Max L.) such as that described in patent application FR 2 915 381 incorporated herein by reference. Among the soy protein hydrolysates, mention may be made for example of the soy hydrolysates marketed by the companies COLETICA and / or BASF Beauty Care Solutions under the trade name Phytokine® (CAS number: 68607-88-5; INCI name: Hydrolyzed Soy Protein) or a hydrolysed soy protein extract such as RIDULISSE C ^® from SILAB, Soyaline ^® (soy oligomptides, proline-rich, arginine and aspartic acid obtained by enzymatic hydrolysis) from Solabia (INCI name EU: Hydrolyzed Soy Protein), Soymilk extract (Cosmetochem International Ltd), or any extract having the INCI name "Hydrolyzed Soy Protein";

an extract of a peptic nature originating from the hydrolysis of proteins of flax or hydrolyzate of flax proteins; an extract of a peptic nature originating from the hydrolysis of maize proteins or hydrolyzate of maize proteins (in particular Zea mays L.) such as that described in application FR 2 915 382 incorporated herein by reference;

a peptic extract from the hydrolysis of amaranth proteins

Hypochondriacus) such as that described in the application FR 2 915 385 incorporated herein by reference.

According to a particular embodiment, the peptide-like agent increasing the expression of cytochrome C is a rice protein hydrolyzate.

According to another particular embodiment, the peptide-type agent increasing the expression of cytochrome C is a protein hydrolyzate of flax. According to another particular embodiment, the peptide-type agent increasing the expression of cytochrome C is a hydrolyzate of maize proteins.

According to another particular embodiment, the peptide-type agent increasing the expression of cytochrome C is a hydrolyzate of amaranth proteins.

According to a preferred embodiment, the peptide-type agent increasing the expression of cytochrome C is a soy protein hydrolyzate (Glycine Max L.) Advantageously it is a peptide extract of soybean available under the Dynachondrine ^® ISR commercial reference from one of the Vincience Companies, ISP Personal Care or ISP VINCIENCE.

According to another embodiment, the agent of peptidic nature increasing the expression of cytochrome C is a peptide or a mixture of peptides comprising from 3 to 50 amino acids, preferably from 3 to 20 amino acids and more preferably from 5 to 10 amino acids.

The peptide-like agent increasing the expression of cytochrome C can thus be chosen from the peptides Gln-Cys-His-Thr-Val-Glu-Lys, Gln-Cys-His-Ser-Ala-Glu-Arg, Asn- Pro-Lys-Lys-Tyr-lle, Tyr-Leu-Lys-Lys-Ala, Tyr-Leu-Lys-Lys-Ala-NH ₂ , Pro-Gly-Thr-Lys-Met, Tyr-lle-Lys-Arg -Ala-NH ₂ , Tyr-Leu-Arg-Arg-Val, Tyr-Leu-Lys-Lys-NH ₂ , Tyr-Leu-Lys, or mixtures thereof. According to another particular embodiment, the peptide-type agent increasing the expression of cytochrome C is the Gln-Cys-His-Thr-Val-Glu-Lys peptide.

According to another particular embodiment, the peptide-type agent increasing the expression of cytochrome C is the Gln-Cys-His-Ser-Ala-Glu-Arg peptide.

According to another particular embodiment, the peptide-type agent increasing the expression of cytochrome C is the peptide Asn-Pro-Lys-Lys-Tyr-Ile. According to another particular embodiment, the peptide-type agent increasing the expression of cytochrome C is the Tyr-Leu-Lys-Lys-Ala peptide.

According to another particular embodiment, the peptide-type agent increasing the expression of cytochrome C is the Tyr-Leu-Lys-Lys-Ala-NH ₂ peptide.

According to another particular embodiment, the peptide-type agent increasing the expression of cytochrome C is the Pro-Gly-Thr-Lys-Met peptide.

According to another particular embodiment, the peptide-type agent increasing the expression of cytochrome C is the Tyr-Ile-Lys-Arg-Ala-NH ₂ peptide.

According to another particular embodiment, the peptide-type agent increasing the expression of cytochrome C is the Tyr-Leu-Arg-Arg-Val peptide. According to another particular embodiment, the peptide-type agent increasing the expression of cytochrome C is the peptide Tyr-Leu-Lys-Lys-NH ₂ .

According to another particular embodiment, the agent of peptidic nature increasing the expression of cytochrome C is the Tyr-Leu-Lys peptide.

Thus, the peptide-like agent increasing the expression of cytochrome C can be chosen from a rice protein hydrolyzate, a soy protein hydrolyzate, a flax protein hydrolyzate, a corn protein hydrolyzate, a protein hydrolyzate. amaranth, the Gln-Cys-His-Thr-Val-Glu-Lys, Gln-Cys-His-Ser-Ala-Glu-Arg, Asn-Pro-Lys-Lys-Tyr-lle, Tyr-Leu-peptides Lys-Lys-Ala, Tyr-Leu-Lys-Lys-Ala-NH ₂ , Pro-Gly-Thr-Lys-Met, Tyr-Ile-Lys-Arg-Ala-NH _2, Tyr-Leu-Arg-Arg- Val, Tyr-Leu-Lys-Lys-NH _2, Tyr-Leu-Lys. The peptide-like agent increasing the expression of cytochrome C may also be a mixture of a vegetable protein hydrolyzate (such as one or more of those specifically described above) and a peptide or mixtures thereof. peptides, in particular, such as those specifically described above.

Other peptidic agents which increase the expression of cytochrome C, which can be used according to the invention, can be selected by those skilled in the art, for example in an in vitro test on human fibroblasts consisting of:

incubate fibroblasts in a culture medium adapted to their growth and their synthesis activities;

put them in the presence or not (control) of a sufficient quantity of the agent to be tested, for example 0.0001, 0.001, 0.1, 1, 3%;

measure by immunofluorescent staining on cell culture and / or Western Blot using an antibody specific for cytochrome C, the expression of cytochrome C induced by the presence of the agent to be tested;

select the agents for which an increase in the expression of cytochrome C with respect to the control is obtained, preferably an increase of more than 10% or even more than 20% relative to the control, in particular when the agent is added to the concentration of 1% in the culture medium.

This test can also be implemented to verify the increase in the expression of Cytochrome C of any agent of peptide nature according to the invention.

SUBSTRATE OF CYTOCHROME C OXIDASE

In addition to the peptide-like agent increasing the expression of the substrate of cytochrome C oxidase, it will be possible optionally to use a substrate of cytochrome C oxidase.

This option may be advantageous for boosting the effect resulting from the implementation of the method, a composition, or a kit according to the invention.

As substrate of the cytochrome C oxidase usable in the present invention is meant in particular derivatives of compounds having a protoporphyrinic catalyst site IX containing iron. Advantageously, in the context of the present invention, the substrate of cytochrome C oxidase is selected from cytochrome C, one of its cytochrome analogs C1, C2 or C3, and mixtures thereof.

In a preferred mode, the substrate of cytochrome C oxidase is cytochrome C.

Cytochrome C is in particular marketed by SIGMA, for example in a kit associating it with a cytochrome C oxidase sold under the name Cytocox 1.

According to a first embodiment, the peptide-type agent increasing the expression of at least one cytochrome C oxidase substrate and optionally the substrate of cytochrome C oxidase is (are) formulated in a composition intended to topical administration to the skin. According to another embodiment, the agent of peptidic nature increasing the expression of at least one cytochrome C oxidase substrate and optionally the cytochrome C oxidase substrate is (are) formulated in a composition intended for oral administration. It may be further advantageous to combine topical and oral administrations to optimize the desired effects.

The agent of peptide nature increasing the expression of at least one substrate of cytochrome C oxidase will generally be present in a composition of the invention in a content ranging from 0.0001 to 20% by weight, preferably from 0, From 1 to 10% by weight, and most preferably from 0.02 to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of said composition.

The substrate of cytochrome C oxidase, when present, will generally be present in a composition of the invention in a content ranging from 0.0001 to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.01 to 10% by weight, and any preferably, from 0.02 to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of said composition.

The highest weight contents are generally reserved for solid form applications (eg powder) or patch applications. LUMINOUS RADIATION THAT ACTIVATES CYTOCHROME C OXIDASE

By 'light activating cytochrome C oxidase' is meant light radiation used under conditions (wavelength, intensity, duration of exposure) such that they can stimulate the enzymatic activity of cytochrome C oxidase in the presence an agent of peptide nature increasing the expression of at least one of its substrates, and optionally at least one of its substrates, and in particular stimulating the following reaction leading to an energy production (ATP) and molecules of water.

CytC oxidase

4CytC (Fe + 2H ₂ O

A light radiation activating the cytochrome C oxidase, usable according to the invention, can be selected according to an in vitro test as described in Example 1 below, consisting of:

- to expose or not (control) cytochrome C oxidase and its substrate (cytochrome C), to light radiation of given wavelengths, for example at a dose of

2,7Joule,

- evaluate the effect of said light radiation on the activity of the enzyme, compared to a control, and

selecting the light radiation capable of increasing the activity of said enzyme, in particular of increasing by at least 10% the activity of said enzyme relative to the control kept out of the light.

The Applicant has indeed been able to show that if a light radiation having at least one predominant wavelength corresponding to the emission spectrum of the red light (dose 2.7 Joule) was capable of activating the cytochrome C oxidase (+33 %), other wavelengths (eg green light around 535nm and blue light around 447nm) had no effect.

When the light radiation is absorbed by a tissue, it delivers energy to the tissue, which itself responds to light radiation as a function of wavelength, intensity and exposure time to said light radiation. The intensity of the light radiation used according to the invention does not exceed preferably 150 mW / cm ² , and preferably is greater than 0.01 mW / cm ² . This intensity range provides treatment efficiency over a reasonable period of time without causing damage to the treated skin tissue. Thus, according to the present invention, the intensity of the light radiation will preferably be between 0.01 mW / cm ² and 150 mW / cm ² . Advantageously, it will be between 1 mW / cm ² and 50 mW / cm ² .

The duration of exposure to light radiation activating cytochrome C oxidase will be defined, as a function of the intensity of said radiation, so that the total energy delivered (dose) on the skin and / or the hair is 0, 01 to 200J / cm ² , preferably from 0.1 to 30J / cm ² , more preferably from 1 to 30J / cm ² , or even from 5 to 30J / cm ² .

Energy (in Joule) = Intensity (in Watt) x Time (in second) Non-limiting, the exposure time to a device emitting light radiation activating cytochrome C oxidase may range from 20 minutes to 120 minutes, preferably 30 minutes at 120 minutes and even more preferentially from 60 minutes to 90 minutes. The exposure time may be less than 20 minutes, so that the exposure time is between 1 minute and 120 minutes.

Depending on the surface condition of the skin and / or the hair to be treated and the desired effect, it may be advantageous to carry out several applications per day of said light radiation activating cytochrome C oxidase in combination with the agent of peptide nature increasing the expression of at least one cytochrome C oxidase substrate and optionally at least one cytochrome C oxidase substrate, or one application per day, or even one application per week, for a duration of one to several months.

According to a preferred embodiment, the light radiation activating the cytochrome C oxidase will in particular be a light radiation having at least one predominant wavelength ranging from 550 to 1000 nm, preferably from 550 to 800 nm, in particular from 620 to 700 nm, and even more preferably from 640 to 680 nm; preferably used at a dose ranging from 0.01 to 200 J / cm ² , preferably from 0.1 to 30 J / cm ² , more preferably from 1 to 30 J / cm ² , or even from 5 to 30 J / cm ² .

According to a preferred embodiment, the light radiation having at least one predominant wavelength activating cytochrome C oxidase is thus applied to the skin and / or the hair, in particular at the level of the areas of skin and / or hair treated with the composition comprising at least one agent of peptide nature increasing the expression of at least one substrate of cytochrome C oxidase and optionally at least one a substrate of cytochrome C oxidase, at a dose ranging from 0.01 to 200J / cm ² , preferably from 0.1 to 30J / cm ² .

As light radiation having at least one predominant wavelength activating the cytochrome C oxidase usable according to the invention, it is possible in particular to use:

a luminous radiation emitted by a device ('physical' source), a luminous radiation emitted by a compound ('chemical / biological' source),

and their mixtures.

Devices emitting light radiation activating cvtochrome C oxidase

According to a first embodiment of the invention, the light radiation having at least one predominant wavelength activating the cytochrome C oxidase is emitted by a device.

Said device may in particular be selected from a device emitting white light associated with a specific filter passing said radiation activating cytochrome C oxidase; lasers; NPL; LEDs and their combinations.

In particular, said device emits light radiation having at least one predominant wavelength ranging from 550 to 1000 nm, in particular from 550 to 800 nm, chosen especially from: lasers, NPL, LEDs; a device emitting white light associated with a specific filter passing at least a predominant wavelength ranging from 550 to 1000 nm (emission spectrum of red and / or infrared), and combinations thereof.

As devices emitting light radiation activating cytochrome C oxidase usable according to the invention, there may be mentioned in particular: the white light, natural or artificial, associated with a specific filter or a screen device allowing at least one predominant wavelength activating the cytochrome C oxidase (ex: wavelength of the emission spectrum of red and / or infra-red): ARC lamps (eg Xenon lamps) and incandescent lamps are examples of devices that emit artificial white light. By natural white light, we mean the light of day, which will be associated with a screen device specifically letting predominantly a color (eg red) activating cytochrome C oxidase. - lasers (for Light Amplification by the Stimulated Emission of Radiation), it is a light source of very high intensity and monochromatic.

Unlike white light (photons of various wavelengths emitted anarchically at different times and in different directions), the light radiation emitted by a laser is a light composed of photons emitted at the same time and in the same light. direction.

Three elements characterize the lasers: the wavelength (λ); the transmission mode: continuous (power delivered constant), pulsed (the energy is delivered by pulses whose frequency and power are adjustable), and ultra-pulsed (the pulses have a duration and a fixed power, but the power is considerable and the duration extremely short); and the power: from a few mW to tens of thousands of watts.

- HPL: Intense light source.

The fundamental difference between laser and IPL lies in the fact that IPL can deliver hundreds or even thousands of colors at a time while the laser delivers only one wavelength. These machines make it possible to choose the wavelength adapted to the problem to be treated, just by changing the filter. They are also called "non coherent light source".

This is emission of light sources of high intensity overall.

This technology can deliver a broad spectrum of wavelength emission that is absorbed by multiple chromophores. We can treat large areas at a time.

- LEDs: Light emitting diode (LED, Light Emitting Diode see "The newest medical breakthrough for skin renewal and Shrinking pores (2004)").

The LED: the LED usually emits light at a low intensity of a few milliwatts; they are classified in the category of low-power lasers (1 to a few tens of mW). According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, devices of the LED type will be used.

Examples of LED devices emitting commercially available cytochrome C oxidase light radiation include:

a) devices that can be used in particular in skin and / or hair care institutes, such as:

Omnilux ™ System (633nm) from Photo Therapeutics Ltd .;

- Lumiphase ™ System (660nm) from OPUSMED Inc;

Lightwave System (630 nm and IR 880nm) from Lightwave Technologies;

Delphia ™ and HydroFacial ™ (600-700nm and IR 700-1,000nm) Systems from Edge Systems Corp .;

RevitaLight System (625nm; IR 940nm) from Skincare Systems

Inc.

b) devices likely to be used at home, such as those marketed in particular on the internet (specialized sites or sales sites, such as e-Bay); we can cite for example the Mini photon Photo Rejuvenation.

The light radiation according to the invention is preferably substantially monochromatic (predominant wavelength) with a wavelength ranging from 550 to 10 00 nm, preferably from 550 to 800 nm, in particular ranging from 620 to 700 nm, more preferably from 640 to 680nm, and better still around 660nm.

According to a particular mode, it may be advantageous to have a device emitting sequentially a green light radiation and a red or infra-red light radiation, to complement the anti-aging effects of one and the other of these lights. In this case, the red light radiation treatment sessions will preferably be shifted in time with respect to the green radiation treatment sessions, to avoid any interference between the effects of the different wavelengths.

The sequential application of two devices emitting at different wavelengths thus makes it possible to take advantage of the benefits of each light without interference from one another. Compounds emitting light radiation activating cytochrome C oxidase

According to another embodiment of the invention, or in addition to a device as described above, the light radiation having at least one predominant wavelength activating cytochrome C oxidase is emitted by a compound chosen from the metabolites or active agents emitting, in particular under light exposure (visible, UV), such a predominant wavelength activating cytochrome C oxidase, a light-filtering compound for specifically passing the said predominant wavelength activating cytochrome C oxidase, and their mixtures.

According to a preferred embodiment, said compound emits light radiation having at least one predominant wavelength activating cytochrome C oxidase ranging from 550 to 1000 nm, preferably from 550 to 800 nm, in particular from 620 to 700 nm, and more preferably from 640 to 680nm. .

According to a particular mode, said compound emits said light radiation when it is under light exposure (visible, UV). This light exposure may be exposure to daylight ('natural' light) or exposure to artificial light implementing a device. In particular, use will be made of a device emitting a white or colored light or UV to excite said compound to enable it to emit said predominant wavelength (eg red).

The intensity of this light exposure will be such that it allows said compound to emit said radiation activating cytochrome C oxidase, in particular at a dose ranging from 0.01 to 200J / cm ² , preferably from 0.1 to 30 J. / cm ² , more preferably from 1 to 30J / cm ² , or even from 5 to 30J / cm ² .

According to another embodiment, said compound emits light radiation without exposure to light: this is the case for compounds with an exothermic reaction (thermoluminescence), or compounds with a chemiluminescence or bioluminescence reaction.

According to a variant, said compound emits light radiation, in particular of the infra-red type, via an exothermic reaction or thermoluminescence (release of heat); for example by solubilizing CaCl 2 (calcium chloride), ZnCl 2 (zinc chloride), or AlCl 3 (aluminum chloride). This reaction can take place at the time of application to the skin of an anhydrous composition containing said compound, the skin intrinsically containing a sufficient amount of water to trigger the exothermic reaction.

According to another variant, said compound emits light radiation by chemiluminescence or bioluminescence reaction.

There may be mentioned the bioluminescence reaction of luciferin in the presence of the enzyme luciferase, ATP, a mineral (eg magnesium) and dioxygen, which exists naturally in fireflies:

luciferin + ATP + O ₂ → oxyluciferin + AMP + PP ₁ + light

The compound may also be capable of filtering the light radiation activating the cytochrome C oxidase according to the invention, when it is subjected to a light exposure, natural or artificial.

These chromic phenomena and the corresponding compounds are in particular described in the reference work 'Chromic Phenomena, Technological Applications of Color Chemistry, Peter Bamfield, The Royal Society of Chemistry, 2001'. Metabolites and active substances emitting and / or filtering red light

These substances are more particularly metabolites or emitting active, especially under light exposure (visible, UV), light between 550 to 800nm, preferably from 620 to 700nm and even more preferably from 640 to 680nm. We can mention in particular:

- anthocyanins of red color; pigments or red dyes; iron complexes III;

phosphorescent substances;

fluorescent substances;

and their mixtures.

By way of example, mention may in particular be made of red anthocyanins such as carthamine, cyanidin, delphinidin, pelargonin and betanin; red polyphenols; lycopene; braziline, Rocou extract, Garance, red pigments, iron complexes III, and mixtures thereof.

Preferably, lycopene, delphinidin and mixtures thereof will be used. Red pigments that may be mentioned include carminic acid, laccaic acid, phycoerythrites (algae), and mixtures thereof.

Preferred complexes of iron III include complexes with salicylic acid and derivatives (salicylates), with antibacterials such as octopirox, with thiocyanate, and mixtures thereof.

As phosphorescent substances, excitable under visible or UV light, there may be mentioned phosphorescent pigments.

By "red phosphorescent pigments" is meant the conventional phosphorescent pigments listed below but also any cosmetically acceptable substance which emits phosphorescent red light radiation with a wavelength of between about 550 to 800 nm, preferably from 620 to 700 nm. and even more preferably from 640 to 680 nm.

The presence of phosphorescent pigments provides a continuous source of red light to the composition, the phosphorescence is activated by UV exposure conventionally present in daylight and its effect lasts several hours.

As fluorescent substances, excitable under visible light, UV or near IR, there may be mentioned in particular fluorescent pigments such as Red Nile (excitation 552nm / emission 636nm); derivatives of glycoconjugated or non-glycoconjugated porphyrins (420-440 excitation / 650-680 nm emission), and mixtures thereof.

In particular, the metabolites or active agents emitting light between 550 and 800 nm, in particular under light exposure, may be chosen from red-colored anthocyanins, such as carthamine, cyanidin, delphinidin, pelargonin, betanine; polyphenols of red color; lycopene; braziline, Rocou extract, Garance, red pigments, iron III complexes with salicylic acid, octopirox or thiocyanate, red phosphorescent substances, red fluorescent substances, and mixtures thereof.

Preferably, the anthocyanins of red color and / or lycopene will be used.

Other compounds filtering red light It is also possible to use alternatively and / or in combination with the compounds emitting a light radiation activating the cytochrome C oxidase described above, compounds capable of filtering light to let specifically light radiation activating cytochrome C oxidase.

By way of example, mention may be made of holographic pigments comprising a polymeric matrix in which a volume hologram is recorded, which act as prisms and have the property, by choosing the appropriate refractive index, of emitting red light. when they are lit by white light. These systems are described by the Applicant in application FR0758017.

The volume hologram converts the incident light into one or more beams with spatial and spectral dependencies depending on the parameters of the hologram.

An example of a volume hologram is the "Denisyuk" hologram, which is a reflection hologram that can be obtained in a holographic film using a single laser beam, serving both as an object beam and as a beam of light. reference, as disclosed in the application EP 1 754 968 A2 and on the site http://www.smartholograms.com/site/sections/technology/creating-sensors.htm, and in the application EP 1 369 681 A1 (see figures 1 a and 1 b in particular), these publications being incorporated by reference.

These red light filtering compounds require light exposure, natural or artificial, to pass specifically the light radiation activating cytochrome C oxidase.

These compounds emitting and / or filtering the light that activates cytochrome C oxidase can be used at concentrations sufficient to emit and / or ensure the passage of a quantity of light radiation activating cytochrome C oxidase.

Said emitting and / or filtering compound, in particular under light exposure, a light radiation having at least one predominant wavelength activating cytochrome C oxidase, is present in at least one of the compositions used in the invention, in a content ranging from 0.0001% to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.001% to 10% by weight, and most preferably from 0.01% to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of said composition. According to a first embodiment, said emitting and / or filtering compound, in particular under light exposure, a light radiation having at least one predominant wavelength activating cytochrome C oxidase, is present in the composition comprising said agent of peptide nature increasing the expression of the substrate of cytochrome C oxidase and optionally the substrate of cytochrome C oxidase.

According to an alternative method, said emitting and / or filtering compound, in particular under light exposure, a light radiation having at least one predominant wavelength activating cytochrome C oxidase, is present in a composition distinct from the composition comprising said agent of nature peptide enhancing substrate expression of cytochrome C oxidase and optionally the substrate of cytochrome C oxidase.

These compounds emitting and / or filtering the light radiation activating cytochrome C oxidase are used in an amount sufficient to ensure a light emission flux of 0.1 to a few tens of mW.

Those skilled in the art will adapt the duration of exposure to this light radiation emitted by said compound according to the characteristics of said compound and the desired effect.

For purely indicative purposes, the areas of skin and / or the hair to be treated may receive a total energy (dose) delivered to the skin and / or the hair ranging from 0.01 to 200 J / cm ² , preferably 0.1 at 30J / cm ² , more preferably from 1 to 30J / cm ² , or even from 5 to 30J / cm ² .

According to one particular embodiment, the agent of peptide nature increasing the expression of the substrate of cytochrome C oxidase, and optionally the substrate of cytochrome C oxidase, is (or is) formulated in a composition intended for administration by the route topically on the skin.

In another embodiment, the peptide-like agent increasing the expression of the cytochrome C oxidase substrate, and optionally the cytochrome C oxidase substrate, is (or is) formulated in a composition intended for administration by the route oral.

Preferably, topical administration will be used. The subject of the invention is also a composition comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium,

a) at least one peptide-like agent increasing the expression of at least one cytochrome C oxidase substrate, and optionally at least one cytochrome C oxidase substrate, and

b) at least one emitting and / or filtering compound, especially under light exposure, at least one light radiation having at least one predominant wavelength activating Cytochrome C oxidase.

Said emitting and / or filtering compound, especially under light exposure, radiation having at least one predominant wavelength activating cytochrome C oxidase is as defined above.

In particular, it can be chosen from the emitting and / or filtering metabolites and active agents, in particular under light exposure, a predominantly wavelength radiation ranging from 550 to 800 nm, preferably from 620 to 700 nm, and more preferably from 640 to 700 nm. 680nm.

By way of examples, there may be mentioned in particular anthocyanins of red color, such as carthamine, cyanidin, delphinidin, pelargonin, betanin; polyphenols of red color; lycopene; braziline, Rocou extract, Garance, red pigments, iron III complexes with salicylic acid, octopirox or thiocyanate, red phosphorescent substances, red fluorescent substances, and mixtures thereof.

Preferably, red anthocyanins, lycopene and mixtures thereof will be used.

The emitting and / or filtering compound, especially under light exposure, a light radiation having at least one predominant wavelength activating cytochrome C oxidase is present in the composition in a content as described above.

According to a preferred embodiment, the substrate of cytochrome C oxidase is selected from cytochrome C, one of its cytochrome analogs C1, C2 or C3, and mixtures thereof. It may be present in the composition in the contents described above. The agent of peptide nature increasing the expression of at least one substrate of cytochrome C oxidase is as described above and may be present in the composition in the contents described above. The composition may be a cosmetic or pharmaceutical composition.

Preferably, it will be a cosmetic composition.

According to a first embodiment, the composition is intended for topical application to the skin and / or the hair.

According to another embodiment, the composition is intended for oral administration. The composition may further comprise an agent promoting the penetration of said compounds, such as solvents, desquamating agents, and mixtures thereof.

Those skilled in the art will ensure that the choice of these additional ingredients is compatible with the application of a device emitting light radiation activating cytochrome C oxidase and does not alter the desired properties.

The invention further relates to a kit comprising:

a) a composition comprising at least one peptide-like agent increasing the expression of at least one cytochrome C oxidase substrate and at least one compound capable of emitting and / or filtering light radiation having at least one length of predominant wave activating cytochrome C oxidase, and optionally at least one substrate of cytochrome C oxidase;

b) a first device enabling said compound present in the first composition to emit and / or filter said light radiation having at least one predominant wavelength activating cytochrome C oxidase.

According to an alternative, the invention relates to a kit comprising:

a) a first composition comprising at least one peptide-like agent increasing the expression of at least one cytochrome C oxidase substrate and optionally at least one cytochrome C oxidase substrate;

b) a second composition comprising at least one compound capable of emitting and / or filtering light radiation having at least one predominant wavelength activating cytochrome C oxidase;

c) optionally, a first device allowing said compound present in the second composition to emit and / or filter said light radiation having at least one predominant wavelength activating cytochrome C oxidase se.

In the case of a compound capable of emitting light radiation activating cytochrome C oxidase, the first device excites said compound so as to emit said light radiation activating cytochrome C oxidase.

Said first device can be in particular:

a device emitting light radiation, having wavelengths of visible, UV and / or near-IR light,

a distinct composition intended to be applied to the skin and / or the hair, comprising an additional compound necessary for the chemiluminescence, bioluminescence or thermoluminescence reaction with said compound.

In particular, the first device may be a device emitting light radiation having wavelengths of visible light and / or UV, depending on the nature of the compound present in the second composition. The device may emit light radiation selected from white light, colored light, and UV light. Preferably it will be visible light and particluier red light.

In the case of a compound capable of filtering the light radiation activating cytochrome C oxidase, the first device is generally a light radiation which is filtered by said compound into a light radiation activating cytochrome C oxidase.

According to one particular embodiment, the kits described above may furthermore comprise a second device emitting light radiation having at least one predominant wavelength activating cytochrome C oxidase.

The invention further relates to a kit comprising:

a) a composition comprising at least one peptide-like agent increasing the expression of at least one cytochrome C oxidase substrate and optionally at least one cytochrome C oxidase substrate; b) a device emitting light radiation having at least one predominant wavelength activating cytochrome C oxidase.

The device emitting light radiation having at least one predominant wavelength activating the cytochrome C oxidase is especially chosen from a device emitting white light associated with a specific filter passing through said light radiation activating cytochrome C oxidase (in particular a light radiation having at least one predominant wavelength corresponding to the emission spectrum of red and / or infra-red light), lasers, NPLs, LEDs, and combinations thereof.

The agent of peptide nature increasing the expression of at least one substrate of cytochrome C oxidase is as described above, and may be implemented in the contents described above.

The substrate of Cytochrome C oxidase is as described above, and may be used in the contents described above.

Examples of compounds emitting and / or filtering, especially under light exposure, radiation having at least one predominant wavelength activating cytochrome C oxidase are described above.

The kit according to the invention may be a cosmetic kit or a pharmaceutical kit.

Preferably, it will be a cosmetic kit. The constitutive compositions of these kits may be compositions intended for topical or oral administration.

Preferably, it will be compositions for topical administration.

GALENICAL

The compositions used in the process, the composition or the kit according to the invention, as described above, are intended for topical and / or oral application.

The composition generally comprises a physiologically acceptable medium, that is to say compatible with the skin and / or its integuments. It is preferably a medium cosmetically acceptable, that is to say that has a pleasant smell, color and touch and that does not generate discomfort (tingling, redness, tightness) unacceptable, likely to divert the consumer to use this composition. For oral administration, in particular in 'oral cosmetics', it may be in the form of capsules, capsules, lozenges, granules, chewing gels, gels, oral syrups, tablets or any other form of administration. another form known to those skilled in the art. Preferably, it is a topical composition.

By topical composition is meant a composition intended for local application on any surface of the body, including the skin, the mucous or semi-mucous membranes, the scalp, the hair. For topical application to the skin, the composition may have the form of an aqueous solution, hydroalcoholic or oily optionally gelled, emulsion of liquid or semi-liquid consistency of the milk type, obtained by dispersion of a fatty phase in a aqueous phase (O / W) or conversely (W / O), a triple emulsion (W / O / W or H / E / H), or suspension or emulsion of soft, semi-solid or solid consistency cream or gel, a liquid anhydrous, pasty or solid product or microemulsions, microcapsules, microparticles or a vesicular dispersion of ionic type (liposomes or oléosomes) and / or nonionic (niosomes) and / or d a scattering of tiny spheres.

It is also possible to envisage a composition in the form of a foam or in the form of a spray or an aerosol then comprising a propellant under pressure; or as a patch or pad soaked.

The composition may thus be in the form of a lotion, serum, milk, O / W or W / O cream, gel, ointment, ointment, powder, balm, patch, soaked swab, soap, bread, mousse.

Depending on the area of the target body and the desired intensity of application, the skilled person may choose from various forms of composition:

a composition intended to remain applied to the skin even after exposure to light radiation having at least one predominant wavelength activating cytochrome C oxidase, this composition may be a dispersion of the lotion or gel type, an emulsion of liquid consistency or semi-liquid of the milk type, obtained by dispersion of a fatty phase in an aqueous phase (O / W) or conversely (EIH), or a suspension or emulsion of soft, semi-solid or solid consistency of the cream or gel type, or multiple emulsions (W / O) / E or H / E / H), a microemulsion, a vesicular dispersion of ionic and / or nonionic type, or a wax dispersion / aqueous phase;

a composition which remains in contact with the skin only during the duration of the exposure to said light radiation activating cytochrome C oxidase, such as a mask, in the form of a cream which the user can apply specifically to the areas to be treated then remove then; or a patch soaked with a substrate; in this form of administration, the masks or patches must be sufficiently transparent to let the light activating the cytochrome C oxidase.

The invention will now be illustrated by the following nonlimiting examples.

Figure 1: assembly of the in vitro test of the activation of cytochrome C oxidase by red light.

Figure 2: emission spectrum of the red light used in the examples

Example 1 Activation of Cytochrome C Oxidase by Specific Light Radiation (Emission Spectrum of Red Light)

The following example measures the stimulatory effect of light radiation having a predominant wavelength ranging from 550 to 800 nm, in particular from 620 to 700 nm, on the activity of cytochrome C oxidase.

The exposure of this enzyme to said light radiation stimulates the production of ATP and water molecules according to the following chemical reaction:

CytC oxidase

4CytC (Fe ²⁺ + 2H ₂ O

Description of the protocol General principle: The principle of this work is to compare the activity of cytochrome C oxidase with or without prior exposure to light radiation having a wavelength ranging from 620 to 700 nm. Materials and reagents

- light source, with optical fiber (internal diameter 3mm) and IL-1700 Photometer + SED probe 033 (# 6600): produces a luminous radiation whose emission spectrum is presented in FIG. 2;

- Cytochrome c (0.22 mM) and Cytochrome c Oxidase (0.32 U / ml): CYTOCOX1 kit from SIGMA

The reduction of the protein is done by adding the solution of 0.1 M DTT (dithiothreitol) or a final concentration of 0.5 mM.

The absorbance is measured at 550 nm and at 565 nm; the ratio A550 / A565 must be between 10 and 20 (check the conformity of the initial solutions)

Mode exposure of enzymes

The enzyme (dehydrated powder form or enzyme solution) is placed in a tube

Ependorf conical. The amount is adjusted so that all the enzymes are subjected to light radiation (wavelength between 620 and 700 nm) by an optical fiber of diameter 3 mm. The light exposure is continuous and the energy provided by the light is 0.45mW / cm ² (see Figure 1: circuit diagram and Figure 2: Emission spectrum of the red light used in the tests).

Ependorf tubes are placed in an ice bucket for the duration of the exposure in order to avoid an effect of temperature. The control enzyme (not exposed to said light radiation) is prepared at the same time, in the same manner and protected from said light radiation by a support preventing the supply of external light (aluminum foil).

Cytochrome C oxidase is exposed to light radiation (duration of 30 to 90 min), ie an equivalent dose of between 0.8 Joule / cm ² and 2.4 Joule / cm ² , in solution at a concentration of 0.15 U / ml in a TRIS-HCL buffer. pH 7 containing 0.5 mM sucrose.

After exposure, cytochrome C oxidase is incubated with its substrate, the

ferrocytochrome C Fe2 + in a mixture containing 10 mM TRIS HCL PH 7 and 120 mM KCL

The activity of the enzyme is evaluated from the beginning of the reaction.

Measurement of enzyme activity

The absorption of cytochrome C at 550 nm varies with its oxidation state. This property is the basis of our measurement test.

Cytochrome C is reduced by Dithiothreitol and reoxidized by cytochrome C oxidase.

The eppendorfs have 125 μl for the control and 125 μl for the sample to be tested.

The sample to be tested is then placed under luminous radiation for a period of

90 minutes.

The variation of the absorbance A550 / min is then measured.

The enzymatic activity is then calculated according to the following formula.

U / ml = (dA / min x dil x 1.1) / (enzyme vol) x 21.84).

The light emitting a predominant wavelength in the red significantly stimulates the activity of cytochrome C oxidase (+ 33%) for a duration of irradiation of 90 min, a dose equivalent to 2.4 Joule / cm ² .

Example 2 - Examples of Formulations

Composition associated with a device

The formula described below will be applied to the face or body just before prolonged exposure (30 minutes to 1 hour 30 minutes) to light radiation having at least one predominant wavelength ranging from 550 to 1000 nm, preferably from 620 to 1000 nm. at 700nm. For example, an Omnilux ™ System (633 nm) device from Photo Therapeutics Ltd or a Lightwave ™ System (630nm and 880nm) device from OPUSMED Inc will be used.

The formula described above may optionally include cytochrome C (0.5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition). In this case, the amount of water will be reduced by 0.5%.

Iontophoretic patch

According to another embodiment, a lontopatchTM commercial reference patch

(Travanti Pharma, Mendota Heights, MN, USA) is applied to an area previously treated with one of the creams above.

It is then connected to an electric current to deliver a galvanic current generated by a potential difference of 1V and comprising two electrodes, a Zn anode and an AgCl cathode and is exposed to light radiation having at least one wavelength predominantly from 550 to 1000nm.

This treatment is performed once a day for 30 to 45 minutes.

Red mask

Oily phase:

Octyl dodecanol 6%

Apricot kernel oil 6%

Triglycerides 5%

Kaolin 3%

Cetyl alcohol 2%

0.5% vitamin E acetate

Hydrogenated palm oil 6%

Liquid fraction of shea butter 5%

Aqueous phase :

0.4% Xanthan gum

Sucrose Cocoate / Sorbitan Stearate

(mixture sold by ICL under the name Arlaton 21 121 5.5%

Glycerin 3%

Dipyridamole 0.30%

Ethanol 5%

Dynachondrine ^® ISR 0.1%

Delphinidine 0.4%

Perfume 0.3%

Conservative qs

Water qspl OO

This mask is applied to the areas of the skin to be treated, then the subject is placed under a source of white light (natural or electric) for 45 minutes to 1 hour.

This mask may optionally include cytochrome C (0.1% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition). In this case, the amount of water will be reduced by 0.1%.

Claims

A cosmetic process intended in particular to improve the appearance of the skin and / or the hair, comprising the simultaneous and / or sequential administration:

a) at least one peptide-like agent increasing the expression of at least one cytochrome C oxidase substrate, and optionally, at least one cytochrome C oxidase substrate; and

b) at least one light radiation having at least one predominant wavelength activating cytochrome C oxidase.

2. Method according to claim 1, characterized in that the substrate of the cytochrome C oxidase optional is cytochrome C.

3. Method according to any one of claims 1 to 2, characterized in that the agent of peptide nature increases the expression of cytochrome C.

4. Method according to any one of claims 1 to 3, characterized in that the agent of peptide nature is an extract of a peptide nature derived from the hydrolysis of plant proteins.

5. Method according to claim 4, characterized in that said agent of peptide nature is selected from a hydrolyzate of rice protein, corn, soy (Glycine max L.), flax, amaranth.

6. Method according to claim 5, characterized in that said agent of peptide nature is a hydrolyzate of soy protein (Glycine max L.).

The method according to any one of claims 1 to 6, wherein the light radiation has at least one predominant wavelength ranging from 550 to 1000 nm, preferably from 550 to 800 nm, in particular from 620 to 700 nm, and more preferably from 640 to 680nm.

The method according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the light radiation having at least one predominant wavelength activating cytochrome C oxidase is applied to the skin and / or the hair, particularly at the skin and / or hair treated by the composition comprising at least one peptide-like agent increasing the expression of at least one cytochrome C oxidase substrate, and optionally at least one cytochrome C oxidase substrate, at a dose ranging from 0.01 to 200 J / cm ² preferably from 0.1 to 30J / cm ² .

9. Method according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the light radiation having at least one predominant wavelength activating the cytochrome C oxidase is emitted by a device chosen in particular from a device emitting white light associated with a filter. specific to said light radiation having at least one predominant wavelength activating cytochrome C oxidase; lasers; NPL; LEDs and their combinations.

10. Method according to claim 9, characterized in that said light radiation is emitted by an LED.

The method according to any one of claims 1 to 10, wherein the peptide-like agent increasing the expression of at least one cytochrome C oxidase substrate, and optionally the substrate of cytochrome C oxidase, is (or are) formulated in a composition for topical administration to the skin.

The method according to any one of claims 1 to 11, wherein the peptide-like agent increasing the expression of at least one cytochrome C oxidase substrate, and optionally the substrate of cytochrome C oxidase, is ( or are) formulated in a composition for oral administration.

The method according to any one of claims 1 to 12, wherein the substrate of cytochrome C oxidase is present in the composition in a content ranging from 0.0001 to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.01 to 10. % by weight, and most preferably, from 0.02 to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of said composition.

The method according to any one of claims 1 to 13, wherein the peptide-like agent increasing the expression of at least one cytochrome oxidase substrate is present in the composition in a content ranging from From 0.0001 to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.01 to 10% by weight, and most preferably from 0.02 to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of said composition.

15. Method according to any one of the preceding claims, aimed at:

to improve the hydration of the skin and / or the hair; and or

improve the skin barrier function; and or

16. A method according to any one of the preceding claims, aimed at attenuating the visible or tactile irregularities of the surface of the skin, in particular attenuating wrinkles and fine lines, attenuating cutaneous spots, reducing the alterations of the microrelief and / or smoothing the skin. skin, promote the regeneration of the skin tissue, lighten the complexion and / or improve the dullness of the complexion, maintain and / or improve the biomechanical properties of the skin (elasticity, firmness, tonicity), maintain and / or improve the hydration of the skin, and / or maintain and / or improve the skin's texture.

17. A composition comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium,

a) at least one peptide-like agent increasing the expression of at least one cytochrome C oxidase substrate, and optionally, at least one cytochrome C oxidase substrate, and

b) at least one emitting and / or filtering compound, especially under light exposure, a light radiation having at least one predominant wavelength activating Cytochrome C oxidase.

18. The composition according to claim 17, wherein said peptide-like agent increasing the expression of at least one cytochrome C oxidase substrate is as defined in any one of claims 3 to 6.

19. Kit comprising: a) a composition comprising at least one peptide-like agent increasing the expression of at least one cytochrome C oxidase substrate, and at least one compound capable of emitting and / or filtering light radiation having at least one length predominant wave-activating cytochrome C oxidase, and optionally, additionally at least one substrate of cytochrome C oxidase;

20. Kit comprising:

a) a first composition comprising at least one peptide-type agent increasing the expression of at least one cytochrome C oxidase substrate, and optionally, in addition, at least one cytochrome C oxidase substrate;

b) a second composition comprising at least one compound capable of emitting and / or filtering light radiation having at least one predominant wavelength activating cytochrome C oxidase; c) optionally, a first device allowing said compound present in the second composition to emit and / or filter said light radiation having at least one predominant wavelength activating cytochrome C oxidase.

21. Kit comprising:

a) a composition comprising at least one peptide-like agent increasing the expression of at least one cytochrome C oxidase substrate, and optionally, in addition, at least one cytochrome C oxidase substrate;

b) a device emitting light radiation having at least one predominant wavelength activating cytochrome C oxidase.

22. Kit according to claim 21, characterized in that the device emitting light radiation having at least one predominant wavelength activating the cytochrome C oxidase, is chosen from a device emitting white light associated with a specific filter passing through. said radiation bright activating cytochrome C oxidase, lasers, NPL, LEDs, and their combinations.

23. Kit according to any one of claims 21 to 22, characterized in that the agent of peptic nature increasing the expression of at least one substrate of cytochrome C oxidase is as described in one of claims 3 to 6.