FR2948876A1 - ASSOCIATION OF LUMINOUS RADIATION AND A PEPTIDE AGENT INCREASING THE EXPRESSION OF A SUBSTRATE OF CYTOCHROME C OXIDASE TO IMPROVE THE APPEARANCE OF THE SKIN AND / OR THE HAIR - Google Patents

Abstract

The present invention more specifically relates to a cosmetic treatment method intended in particular to improve the appearance of the skin and / or the hair, comprising the simultaneous and / or sequential administration of: at least one peptide-increasing agent, expression of at least one substrate of cytochrome C oxidase, and optionally at least one substrate of cytochrome C oxidase; and at least one light radiation having at least one predominant wavelength activating cytochrome C oxidase. In particular, said light radiation has at least one predominant wavelength activating the cytochrome C oxidase ranging from 550 to 1000 nm, in particular from 550 to 800 nm, preferably from 620 to 700 nm, and even more preferably from 640 to 680 nm; and is preferably used at a dose ranging from 0.01 to 200J / cm, preferably from 0.1 to 30J / cm, more preferably from 1 to 30J / cm, or even from 5 to 30J / cm. The invention also relates to a composition and a kit.

Description

The present invention relates to the field of the care of the skin and / or the hair and in particular the improvement of the appearance of the skin and / or the hair by light radiation.

By 'skin' is meant the skin of the face and / or body as well as the scalp. The present invention relates more specifically to a method. cosmetic treatment intended in particular to improve the appearance of the skin and / or the hair, comprising the simultaneous and / or sequential administration of at least one agent of peptide nature increasing the expression of at least one substrate of the cytochrome C oxidase, and optionally at least one substrate of cytochrome C oxidase; and at least one light radiation having at least one predominant wavelength activating cytochrome C oxidase. 15

The cosmetic treatment method according to the present invention comprises, in particular, the simultaneous and / or sequential administration to a subject, in particular to a healthy-skinned subject of at least one peptidic agent increasing the expression of at least one substrate of cytochrome C oxidase, and optionally at least one substrate of cytochrome C oxidase; and at least one light radiation having at least one predominant wavelength activating cytochrome C oxidase. By "healthy skin" is meant skin which does not show any lesion and / or infection.

In particular, said light radiation according to the invention has (emits) at least one predominant wavelength activating the cytochrome C oxidase ranging from 550 to 1000 nm. (Red and infrared emission spectrum), in particular from 550 to 800 nm, preferably from 620 to 700 nm, and still more preferably from 640 to 680 nm; and is preferably used at a dose ranging from 0.01 to 200 J / cm 2, preferably from 0.1 to 30 J / cm 2, more preferably from 1 to 30 J / cm 2, or even from 5 to 30 J / cm 2.

The invention also relates to a composition comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium: at least one peptide-like agent increasing the expression of at least one cytochrome C oxidase substrate, and optionally at least one substrate cytochrome C oxidase, and at least one emitting and / or filtering compound, especially under light exposure, a light radiation having at least one predominant wavelength activating Cytochrome C oxidase.

The invention also relates to a kit which will be detailed below.

According to a first alternative, the methods, compositions, and kits according to the present invention will use the peptide-type agent increasing the expression of at least one cytochrome C oxidase substrate in the absence of substrate addition. cytochrome C oxidase. According to another optional alternative, the methods, compositions, and kits according to the present invention will use the agent of peptide nature increasing the expression of at least one cytochrome C oxidase substrate with, in addition, at least one substrate of the cytochrome C oxidase. Maintaining a youthful appearance and / or healthy skin and / or hair leads to the unceasing search for new compounds and / or new non-invasive methods of treatment to maintain or improve the appearance of the skin and / or or hair.

For a few years, we have been turning to aesthetic treatments using visible light and / or infrared, laser, LED light, etc. In particular, we speak of 'photocosmetic treatment'. In particular, the use by dermatologists and beauticians of lasers and IPL (Intense Pulsed Light) to treat the signs of skin aging, in particular wrinkles, is known, but these technologies are susceptible under certain conditions (high intensity and / or long duration of treatment) to generate damage to the dermis, which can cause erythema, edema or pain.

It is also known to use the LED (Light-emitting diode) which specifically activates, for a given wavelength, chromophores or cellular acceptors in the cutaneous tissue, and thereby initiates a cascade of biological metabolisms intended for a given wavelength. In order to revitalize / improve / regenerate / stimulate the functionality and the appearance of the skin, Application WO20041075985 describes, in particular, treatment methods using visible and / or infra-red light radiation, optionally combination with a photosensitizing active, to reduce wrinkles, rejuvenate the skin, promote healing and tissue repair, treat hypopigmentary disorders. It is described the repeated and controlled application in several stages of light radiation over periods of several hours. Furthermore, agents of a peptide nature, for example plant protein hydrolyzates or certain specific peptides, are known to increase the expression of cytochrome C. Thus, the applications FR 2915381, FR 2915380, FR 2915382 and FR 2915385 respectively describe a hydrolyzate of soy protein, rice, corn, amaranth, and the application FR 2915393 describing activator peptides. However, there remains the need to develop systems that are easy to implement and do not have the skin damage that can be generated by excessive application (nature of the light source, intensity, duration) of light radiation.

This is what the Applicant has achieved by combining the administration of at least one peptide-like agent increasing the expression of a substrate of Cytochrome C oxidase and optionally at least one substrate of cytochrome C oxidase. and at least one light radiation having at least one predominant wavelength activating cytochrome C oxidase.

This combination advantageously makes it possible to reduce the duration and / or the intensity of the light radiation administered while keeping a good efficiency.

The Applicant has discovered, surprisingly and unexpectedly, that the administration of a peptide-like agent increasing the expression of a substrate of Cytochrome C oxidase (and optionally at least one substrate of cytochrome C 35 oxidase ) associated with a light radiation having at least a predominant wavelength ranging from 550 to 800 nm (emission spectrum of red light) led to an increased activity of this enzyme and made it possible to ensure the proper functioning of the chain mitochondrial respiratory, to increase the production of energy and so in particular to fight against the signs of aging and cellular dehydration of the skin and / or hair. The proper functioning of the respiratory chain also ensures in return a better protection against the alterations induced by UV radiation.

Cytochrome C oxidase is present in the different cell types of skin and hair. It is known to be involved in energy metabolism at the level of the mitochondrial respiratory chain or redox chain, which controls the energy level, the metabolism and the homeostasis of the cells. This enzyme is a photoacceptor activated by red light: when photons are absorbed by the redox chain, they transfer their energy to the respiratory system leading, via the electrochemical potential change of the photoactive cell and the transduction of intracellular signals mediated by the redox chain. Cal + and cAMP, a cascade of events in the cell (DNA and RNA synthesis, proliferative activity of cells) and energy production in the form of ATP.

This enzyme has the capacity to catalyze the transfer of electrons to molecular oxygen 20 to transform it into water molecules without forming harmful intermediate free radicals to the cell, according to the following scheme

Scheme of the reaction leading to the production of ATP and water molecules from oxyte CytC oxidase 4CytC (Fe2 +) +02 + 4H + ADP + PO Cytochrome C, one of its substrates, is a small heme protein 15kDa having a protoporphyrinic catalytic IX site containing iron associated with the inner membrane of mitochondria. It is a soluble protein, unlike other cytochromes. It is an essential component of the respiratory chain. Cytochrome C 35 is a highly conserved protein across the spectrum of species, found in plants, animals and many unicellular organisms. It is known analogues, known as cytochrome C1, C2 and C3. 25 + + 2H2O 4CytC (Fe ATP It is also known that the number of mutations in the mitochondrial DNA of cutaneous cells, in particular fibroblasts, increases with age, especially at the level of coding sequences for cytochrome oxidase ( GS Gerhard et al., Mechanisms of Aging and Development, 123, 2002: 155-166), which has the effect of impairing energy production and decreasing the overall metabolism of skin cells. of mutations in the DNA of the mitochondrial genome, especially in DNA sequences coding for proteins involved in the mitochondrial respiratory chain, the alteration of these proteins leads to a decrease in the consumption of oxygen, a change in membrane potential, a decrease in the production of ATP and an increase in the synthesis of MMPs.These mechanisms are reflected in particular by a loss of hydration at the level of skin cells, collagen degradation and decreased energy metabolism of cells. The combination according to the invention therefore makes it possible to maintain the energetic stock (ATP) of the cells and a production of water molecules so that all the cellular functions are ensured. The invention therefore relates to the combination of at least one peptide-like agent increasing the expression of at least one cytochrome C oxidase substrate, and optionally at least one cytochrome C oxidase substrate, with at least one at least one light radiation having at least one predominant wavelength activating cytochrome C oxidase, in particular light radiation having at least one predominant wavelength ranging from 550 to 1000 nm (emission spectrum of red light and / or infra-red), in a cosmetic treatment process, a composition, or a kit intended in particular to improve the appearance of the skin and / or the hair. The peptide-like agent increasing the expression of the cytochrome C oxidase substrate, and optionally the cytochrome C oxidase substrate, can be formulated in a composition for topical and / or route administration. 35, oral. The light radiation having at least one predominant wavelength activating cytochrome C oxidase may be in the form of a device, or alternatively, in the form of a capable compound. to emit and / or let specifically pass, especially under light exposure; a light radiation having at least one predominant wavelength activating cytochrome C oxidase. In the latter case, said compound emitting and / or filtering said cytochrome C oxidase-activating light radiation can be formulated in the same composition as the peptide-type agent increasing the expression of at least one cytochrome C oxidase substrate and optionally the substrate of cytochrome C oxidase, or in a separate composition. The invention therefore relates, in particular, to a cosmetic process intended in particular to improve the appearance of the skin and / or the hair, comprising the simultaneous and / or sequential administration of a) at least one agent of peptide nature increasing the expression of at least one substrate of cytochrome C oxidase, and optionally at least one substrate of cytochrome C oxidase; and b) at least one light radiation having at least one predominant wavelength activating cytochrome C oxidase. Advantageously, all the cosmetic processes according to the present invention are used on subjects with healthy skin.

By "light radiation having at least one predominant wavelength" is meant according to the invention a light radiation distinct from white light comprising all the wavelengths of the spectrum. Indeed, it is known that each wavelength has a specific target in the cells of the skin and / or the hair, called a chromophore or photoacitator. The Applicant has indeed shown that certain wavelengths were capable of activating cytochrome C oxidase, while others had no effect or were likely to inhibit it. Preferably, the light radiation has at least one predominant wavelength ranging from 550 to 1000 nm (red light emission spectrum 550-800 nm and infra-red 800-1000 nm). In particular, the light radiation has at least one predominant wavelength ranging from 550 to 800 nm (emission spectrum of red light), in particular from 620 to 700 nm, and even more preferably from 640 to 680 nm. In particular, light radiation whose emission spectrum has an optimum peak around 660nm, preferably around 660 nm + 1 100 nm, in particular around 660 nm +/- 40 nm, and in a manner that is all preferably around 660 nm + 1- 15 nm. According to a preferred embodiment, the light radiation having at least one predominant wavelength activating cytochrome C oxidase is applied to the skin and / or the hair, in particular at the level of the areas of skin and / or hair treated with composition comprising at least one peptide-like agent increasing the expression of at least one cytochrome C oxidase substrate, and optionally at least one cytochrome C oxidase substrate, at a dose ranging from 0.01 to 200 J / cm 2, Preferably from 0.1 to 30 JIcm2. "Sequential" means a successive (immediate) or delayed administration. In the case of delayed administration, the administration of the light radiation 20 may take place a few minutes, hours, days or even weeks after administration of the peptide-type agent according to the invention and optionally at least one cytochrome C substrate. oxidase. By way of example, the delayed delivery of the light radiation may take place 24 to 48 hours after administration of the peptide-type agent according to the invention. According to a preferred embodiment, the peptide-type agent according to the invention will be administered twice daily (every 12 hours) and the light radiation will be applied once a day. In the case of sequential administration and advantageously, the peptide-like agent increasing the expression of the substrate of cytochrome C oxidase, and optionally the substrate of cytochrome C oxidase, is administered before the administration of the light radiation. having at least one predominant wavelength activating the cytochrome C oxidase, but said peptide-like agent and optionally said substrate may (also) and in a complementary manner be administered after a substrate + light radiation session having at least one wave length. predominant activating cytochrome C oxidase.

According to a particular embodiment, the light radiation having at least one predominant wavelength activating cytochrome C oxidase is a compound emitting and / or filtering, especially under light or UV exposure, said light radiation activating the cytochrome C oxidase said compound can be formulated in the composition comprising said peptidic agent increasing the expression of the cytochrome C oxidase substrate and optionally the cytochrome C oxidase substrate, or else in another topical composition intended to be applied in an off-set manner (before or after) . According to another embodiment, a patch, in particular iontophoretic, impregnated with at least one peptide-like agent increasing the expression of at least one cytochrome C oxidase substrate and optionally a substrate of cytochrome C oxidase, is used. and provided with diodes emitting said light radiation activating cytochrome C oxidase. The implementation of the method according to the invention may further comprise a step prior to or concomitant with the steps of the method according to the invention, aimed at improving the penetration of the peptide-type agent increasing the expression of at least one substrate. cytochrome C oxidase and optionally the cytochrome C oxidase substrate, for example by cooling the skin, iontophoresis, or an occlusive system. It is also possible to promote the penetration of the peptide-like agent increasing the expression of at least one cytochrome C oxidase substrate and optionally the cytochrome C oxidase substrate, by practicing a prior chemical or mechanical peel on the zone to be treated. treat. Such an association according to the invention has the effect of ensuring the proper functioning of the mitochondrial respiratory chain, and thus makes it possible to increase the production of energy and in particular to fight against the signs of aging and cellular dehydration at the level of skin and / or hair. The combination according to the invention therefore makes it possible in particular to maintain and / or improve the energetic metabolism of the cells of the skin and / or the hair; maintain and / or improve the hydration of the skin and / or the hair; maintain and / or improve the biomechanical properties of the skin (elasticity, firmness, tonicity); to prevent and / or treat the signs of aging of the skin and / or the hair; to improve the skin barrier function to promote the regeneration of dermal and / or epidermal cells, in particular to prevent and / or improve the surface state of cracks and / or frostbites, for example linked to a deficiency of cellular oxygenation (ischemic cellular situations) caused by cold and altitude).

The method according to the invention aims to: improve the hydration of the skin and / or the hair; and / or - improve the skin barrier function; and / or - to promote the regeneration of the dermal and / or epidermal cells, in particular to improve the surface condition of the cracks and / or frostbites, and / or to prevent and / or fight against the signs of aging of the skin and / or hair; and / or - to prevent and / or treat the hair loss, the slowing down of their growth, their graying, the decrease in their diameter, their vigor.

According to one particular embodiment, the method according to the invention aims at improving the hydration of the skin and / or the hair. According to another mode, the method according to the invention aims to improve the skin barrier function.

According to yet another embodiment, the process according to the invention aims to promote the regeneration of dermal and / or epidermal cells, in particular to improve the surface state of cracks and / or frostbites.

The method according to the invention is also intended to prevent and / or fight against the signs of aging of the skin and / or hair. In particular, the method according to the invention aims at attenuating the visible or tactile irregularities of the surface of the skin, in particular attenuating the wrinkles and fine lines, attenuating the cutaneous spots, reducing the alterations of the microrelief and / or smoothing the skin, promote regeneration of the skin tissue, lighten the complexion and / or improve the dullness of the complexion, maintain and / or improve the biomechanical properties of the skin (elasticity, firmness, tone), maintain and / or improve hydration of the skin, and / or maintain and / or improve the skin's texture. It is also intended to prevent and / or treat hair loss, slowing down of their growth, graying, decrease in their diameter, and their vigor. AGENTS OF PEEPICITY INCREASING EXPRESSION ''. AT LEAST ONE SUBSTRATE OF CYTOCHROME C OXIDASE

In the context of the present invention, the term "agent of peptidic nature" increasing the expression of at least one substrate of cytochrome C oxidase, any agent of a peptide nature capable of increasing the expression of at least one substrate. cytochrome C oxidase, in particular, by activation of the protein synthesis of the Cytochrome C oxidase substrate (in particular via regulation of the gene encoding said substrate). 15 As part of. the present invention is understood to mean by agent of peptidic nature increasing the expression of cytochrome C any agent of peptide nature capable of increasing the expression of cytochrome C in particular, by activation of the protein synthesis of Cytochrome C (in particular via regulation of the gene coding for Cytochrome C protein).

In the context of the present invention, the term "peptide-type agent" is intended to mean a hydrolyzate of proteins, preferably plant proteins, a peptide comprising from 2 to 50 amino acids, preferably from 3 to 20 amino acids and more preferably from 5 to 10 acids. amines, or mixtures thereof.

In the context of the present invention, as agent of peptide nature increasing the expression of at least one substrate of cytochrome C oxidase, mention may be made preferably of a peptide-like agent increasing the expression of cytochrome C. Aggressively, the peptide-type agent according to the invention is rich in biomimetic peptides of proteins of the mitochondrial respiratory chain.

According to one embodiment of the present invention, the agent of peptide nature increasing the expression of at least one substrate of cytochrome C oxidase, and in particular cytochrome C, is a peptide-like extract originating from the Hydrolysis of plant proteins (vegetable protein hydrolyzate) It thus mainly contains polypeptides or peptides.

The vegetable protein hydrolyzate may be obtained by conventional techniques known to those skilled in the art. In particular, it can be obtained according to one of the techniques described in application FR 2 915 381. Preferably, it will be obtained according to the method described in either of Examples 1 and 2 of the application FR 2. 915,381 incorporated herein by reference. Generally, vegetable proteins are extracted from the plant (seed or any other part of the plant) according to methods known to those skilled in the art. Advantageously, they will be extracted from the grain, and preferentially grain freed from its envelope by a dehulling step. The hydrolysis can then be carried out according to several methods known to those skilled in the art. The hydrolysis will preferably be arranged. The soy proteins thus extracted can be brought into contact with an enzymatic cocktail in the presence of water so that they are hydrolyzed, and then a filtration is carried out in order to separate the hydrolyzate. Among. the enzymes may be cited endoproteases of plant origin (papain, bromelain, ficin). Hydrolysis can also be done using microorganisms (Aspergillus, Rhizopus, Bacillus). Also, the hydrolysis can take place on a crude extract. This will then follow a purification of the peptide fragments. Any plant source can be used in the present invention. Preferably, the protein hydrolysates will be chosen from hydrolysates of rice, corn, soybean (Glycine max L.), linseed, amaranth, preferably soybean (Glycine max L.) proteins. In particular, mention may be made of the cytochrome C activator, otherwise known as the "cytochrome cinducing active ingredient" (Cl) proposed by Vincience and capable of increasing the expression of cytochrome C and the activity of cytochrome C oxidase (A). Perrin et al., 35 Vincience, SID May 2007).

As a peptide-like agent increasing the expression of cytochrome C, mention may also be made of an extract of a peptic nature originating from the hydrolysis of rice proteins or hydrolyzate of rice proteins (in particular Oryza saliva L.), such as that described in the application FR 2 915 380 incorporated herein by reference or such as those sold by the companies Pentapharm and Silab under the respective names Colhibin and Nutripeptidese GR - an extract of a peptic nature derived from the hydrolysis of soy protein or soy protein hydrolyzate (Glycine Max L.) such as that described in the application FR 2 915 381 incorporated herein by reference. Among the soy protein hydrolysates, mention may be made for example of the soy hydrolysates marketed by the companies COLETICA and / or BASF Beauty Care Solutions under the trade name Phytokine (CAS number: 68607-88-5; INCI name: Hydrolyzed Soy Protein) or an extract of hydrolysed soy protein such as RIDULISSE Ce from SILAB, Soyaline (Soyaline Oligopeptides, -proline enriched, arginine and aspartic acid obtained by enzymatic hydrolysis) from Solabia (EU INCI name: Hydrolyzed Soy Protein), Soymilk extract (Cosmetochem International Ltd), or any extract having the name INCI Hydrolyzed Soy Protein; a. extract of a peptic nature derived from the hydrolysis of proteins of flax or hydrolyzate of flax proteins; an extract of a peptic nature resulting from the hydrolysis of maize proteins or hydrolyzate of maize proteins (in particular Zea mays L) such as that described in the application FR 2 915 382 incorporated herein by reference to a peptic extract derived from hydrolysis of proteins amaranth or hydrolyzate protein amaranth (including Amaranthus Hypochondriacus.) Such as that described in the application FR 2 915 385 incorporated herein by reference.

According to a particular embodiment, the peptide-like agent increasing the expression of cytochrome C is a rice protein hydrolyzate. According to another particular embodiment, the peptide-type agent increasing the expression of cytochrome C is a protein hydrolyzate of flax.

According to another particular embodiment, the peptide-type agent increasing the expression of cytochrome C is a hydrolyzate of maize proteins.

According to another particular embodiment, the peptide-type agent increasing the expression of cytochrome C is a hydrolyzate of amaranth proteins. According to a preferred embodiment, the peptide-type agent increasing the expression of cytochrome C is a soy protein hydrolyzate (Glycine Max L.) Advantageously it is a peptide extract of soybean available under the commercial reference Dynachondrinee ISR with one or the other Vincience Companies, ISP Personal Care, or ISP VINCIENCE. According to another embodiment, the agent of peptidic nature increasing the expression of cytochrome C is a peptide or a mixture of peptides comprising from 3 to 50 amino acids, preferably from 3 to 20 amino acids and more preferably from 5 to 10 amino acids. The peptide-like agent increasing the expression of cytochrome C can thus be chosen from the Gin-Cys-His-Thr-Val-Glu-Lys, Gln-Cys-His-Ser-Ala-Glu-Arg, Asn peptides. -Pro-Lys-Lys-Tyr-Ile, Tyr-Leu-Lys-Lys-Ala, Tyr-Leu-Lys-Lys-Ala-NH2, Pro-Gly-Thr-Lys-Met, Tyr-lle-Lys-Arg -Ala-NH2, Tyr-Leu-Arg-Arg-Val, Tyr-Leu-Lys-Lys-NH2, Tyr-Leu-Lys, or mixtures thereof. According to another particular embodiment, the peptide-type agent increasing the expression of cytochrome C is the GIn-Cys-lis-Thr-Val-Glu-Lys peptide.

According to another particular embodiment, the peptide-type agent increasing the expression of cytochrome C is the GIn-Cys-His-Ser-Ala-Glu-Arg peptide. According to another particular embodiment, the peptide-type agent increasing the expression of cytochrome C is the peptide Asn-Pro-Lys-Lys-Tyr-Ile. According to another particular embodiment, the peptide-type agent increasing the expression of cytochrome C is the Tyr-Leu-Lys-Lys-Ala peptide.

According to another particular embodiment, the peptide-type agent increasing the expression of cytochrome C is the Tyr-Leu-Lys-Lys-AIa-NI2 peptide. According to another particular embodiment, the peptide-type agent increasing the expression of cytochrome C is the Pro-Gly-Thr-Lys-Met peptide. According to another particular embodiment, the peptide-type agent increasing the expression of cytochrome C is the peptide Tyr-Ile-Lys-Arg-Ala-NH2. According to another particular embodiment, the agent of increasing peptide nature, the expression of cytochrome C is the peptide Tyr-LeurArg-Arg-Val ,. According to another particular embodiment, the agent of peptide nature increasing the expression of cytochrome C is the peptide Tyr-Leu-Lys-Lys-NI-12: According to another particular embodiment, the agent of nature Peptide increasing the expression of cytochrome C is the peptide Tyr-Leu-Lys. Thus, the agent of peptide nature increasing the expression of. Cytochrome C may be selected from a rice protein hydrolyzate, a soy protein hydrolyzate, a linseed protein hydrolyzate, a corn protein hydrolyzate, amaranth protein hydrolyzate, the Gln-Cys-His-peptides. Thr-Val-Glu-Lys, Gln-Cys-His-Ser-Ala-Glu-Arg, Asn-Pro-Lys-Lys-Tyr-Ile, Tyr-Leu-Lys-Lys-Ala, Tyr-Leu-Lys- Lys-Ala-NH2, Pro-Gly-Thr-Lys-Met, Tyr-Ile-Lys-Arg-Ala-NH2 Tyr-Leu-Arg-Arg-Val, Tyr-Leu-Lys-Lys-NI2; Tyr-Leu-Lys. The peptide-like agent increasing the expression of cytochrome C may also be a mixture of a vegetable protein hydrolyzate (such as one or more of those specifically described above) and a peptide or mixtures thereof. peptides, in particular, such as those specifically described above. Other peptidic agents which increase the expression of cytochrome C, which can be used according to the invention, can be selected by those skilled in the art, for example in an in vitro test on human fibroblasts consisting in incubating fibroblasts. in a growth medium adapted to their growth and their synthetic activities, to put them in the presence or not (control) of a sufficient quantity of the agent to be tested, for example 0.0001, 0.001, 0.1 1, 3% to be measured by immunofluorescent labeling on cell culture and / or Western. Blot using an antibody specific for cytochrome C, the expression of cytochrome C induced by the presence of the agent to be tested select the agents for which an increase in the expression of cytochrome C is obtained with respect to the control, preferably an increase of more than 10% or even more than 20% relative to the control, particularly when the agent is added at the concentration of 1% in the culture medium. This test can also be used to check the increase in the expression of Cytochrome C of any agent of peptide nature according to the invention.

SUBSTRATE OF CYTOCHROME C OXIDASE

In addition to the peptide-like agent increasing the expression of the substrate of cytochrome C oxidase, it will be possible optionally to use a substrate of cytochrome C oxidase. This option may be advantageous for boosting the effect resulting from the implementation of the method, a composition, or a kit according to the invention.

As substrate of the cytochrome C oxidase usable in the present invention is meant in particular derivatives of compounds having a protoporphyrinic catalyst site IX containing iron. Advantageously, in the context of the present invention, the substrate of cytochrome C oxidase is selected from cytochrome C, one of its cytochrome analogs C1, C2 or C3, and mixtures thereof. In a preferred embodiment, the substrate of cytochrome C oxidase is cytochrome C. Cytochrome C is marketed by SIGMA, for example in a kit associating it with a cytochrome C oxidase sold under the name Cytocox 1.

According to a first embodiment, the agent of peptide nature increasing the expression of at least one substrate of cytochrome C oxidase and optionally the substrate of cytochrome C oxidase is (are) formulated in a composition intended for administration. topically on the skin. According to another embodiment, the peptide-like agent increasing the expression of at least one cytochrome C oxidase substrate and optionally the cytochrome C oxidase substrate is (are) formulated in a composition for oral administration.

It may be further advantageous to combine topical and oral administrations to optimize the desired effects.

The agent of peptide nature increasing the expression of at least one substrate of cytochrome C oxidase will generally be present in a composition of the invention in a content ranging from 0.0001 to 20% by weight, preferably from 0, 01. 10% by weight, and most preferably 0.02 to 5% by weight. relative to the total weight of said composition.

The substrate of cytochrome C oxidase, when present, will generally be present in a composition of the invention in a content of from 0.0001 to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.01 to 10% by weight, and very preferably, from 0.02 to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of said composition.

The highest weight contents are generally reserved for solid form (eg powder) or patch applications.

LUMINOUS RADIATION THAT ACTIVATES CYTOCHROME C OXIDASE

"Cytochrome C oxidase-activating light radiation" means light radiation used under conditions (wavelength, intensity, duration of exposure) such that they can stimulate the enzymatic activity of cytochrome C oxidase. in the presence of an agent of peptide nature increasing the expression of at least one of its substrates, and optionally at least one of its substrates, and in particular to stimulate the following reaction leading to an energy production (ATP) and of water molecules. CytC oxidase 4CytC (Fe2 +) +02 + 4H + 4CytC (Fe3 +) + 2H2O ADP z- + PO42-ATP A light radiation activating the cytochrome C oxidase, usable according to the invention, can be selected according to an in vitro test as described in Example 1 below, consisting in: - exposing or not (control) cytochrome C oxidase and its substrate (cytochrome C), to light rays of given wavelengths, for example to Unedose of 2.7Joule , evaluating the effect of said light radiation on the activity of the enzyme, relative to a control, and -selecting the light radiation capable of increasing the activity of said enzyme, in particular of increasing by at least 10 the activity of said enzyme relative to the control kept away from light. The Applicant has in fact been able to show that if a light radiation having at least one predominant wavelength corresponding to the emission spectrum of the red light (2.7 Joule dose) was capable of activating cytochrome C oxidase (+ 33%), other wavelengths (eg green light around 535nm and blue light around 447nm) had no effect. When the light radiation is absorbed by a tissue, it delivers energy to the tissue, which itself responds to light radiation as a function of wavelength, intensity and exposure time to said light radiation. The intensity of the light radiation used according to the invention does not exceed preferably 150mW / cm 2, and preferably is greater than 0.01 mW / cm 2. This intensity range provides treatment efficacy over a reasonable period of time without causing damage to the treated skin tissue.

The duration of exposure to light radiation activating cytochrome C oxidase will be defined, depending on the intensity of said radiation, so that the total energy delivered (dose) on the skin and / or the hair is 0 0.1 to 200 J / cm 2, preferably 0.1 to 30 J / cm 2, more preferably 1 to 30 J / cm 2; from 5 to 30J / cm2. Energy (in Joule) = Intensity (in Watt) x Time (in second) 35 Without limitation, the exposure time to a device emitting a light radiation activating the cytochrome C oxidase may range from 20 minutes to 120 minutes, preferably 30 minutes. at 120 minutes and even more preferably from 60 minutes to 90 minutes. Depending on the surface condition of the skin and / or the hair to be treated and the desired effect, it may be advantageous to carry out several applications per day of said light radiation activating cytochrome C oxidase in combination with the peptide-like agent increasing the expression of at least one cytochrome C oxidase substrate and optionally at least one cytochrome C oxidase substrate, or one application per day or one application per week for a period of one to several months 10 According to a preferred embodiment, the light radiation activating the cytochrome C oxidase will in particular be a light radiation having at least a predominant wavelength ranging from 550 to 1000 nm, preferably from 550 to 800 nm, in particular from 620 to 700 nm, and even more preferably from 640 to 680 nm; preferably used at a dose ranging from 0.01 to 200 μl cm 2, preferably from 0.1 to 30 J / cm 2, more preferably from 1 to 30 J / cm 2, or even from 5 to 30 J / cm 2. According to a preferred embodiment, the light radiation having at least one predominant wavelength activating the cytochrome C oxidase is thus applied to the skin and / or the hair, in particular in the areas of skin and / or hair treated by the composition comprising at least one peptide-like agent increasing the expression of at least one cytochrome C oxidase substrate and optionally at least one cytochrome C oxidase substrate, at a dose ranging from 0.01 to 200 μCf 2, preferably from 0.1 to 30J / cm 2. As light radiation having at least one predominant wavelength activating the cytochrome C oxidase usable according to the invention may be used in particular: light radiation emitted by a device (source physics, a light radiation emitted by a compound (chemical / biological source, and mixtures thereof) Devices emitting light radiation activating cytochrome C oxidase According to a first embodiment of the invention, light radiation having at least one predominant wavelength activating cytochrome C. oxidase is emitted by a device.

Said device may in particular be selected from a device emitting white light associated with a specific filter passing said radiation activating cytochrome C oxidase; lasers; IPL; LEDs and their combinations. As devices emitting a light emitting activating cytochrome C oxidase usable according to the invention, there may be mentioned In particular, said device emits light radiation having at least one predominant wavelength ranging from 550 to 1000 nm, in particular from 550 at 800 nm, chosen in particular from: My lasers, IPL, LEDs; a device emitting white light associated with a specific filter passing at least a predominant wavelength ranging from 550 to 1000 nm (emission spectrum of red and / or infrared), and combinations thereof. 20 - the white light, natural or artificial, associated with a specific filter or a screen device allowing at least one predominant wavelength activating the cytochrome C oxidase (ex: wavelength of the red emission spectrum and / or infra-red): ARC-lamps (eg Xenon lamp) and incandescent lamps are examples of devices emitting artificial white light. By natural white light is meant daylight, which will be associated with a screen device specifically allowing predominantly a color (ex red) activating the cytochrome G oxidase. lasers (for Light Amplification by the Stimulated Emission of Radiation), it is a light source of very high intensity and monochromatic. Unlike white light (photons of various wavelengths emitted anarchically at different times and in different directions), the light radiation emitted by a laser is a light composed of photons emitted at the same time and in the same light. direction. Three elements characterize lasers the wavelength (λ); The mode. continuous emission (power delivered constant), pulsed (energy is delivered by pulses whose frequency and power are adjustable), and ultra-pulsed (the pulses have a duration and a fixed power, but the power is considerable and the extremely short duration); and power: from a few mW to tens of thousands of watts.

- IPL: Intense pulse light: The fundamental difference between laser and IPL lies in the fact that IPL can deliver hundreds or even thousands of colors at a time while the laser delivers only one wavelength. These machines make it possible to choose the wavelength adapted to the problem to be treated, just by changing the filter. They are also called non-coherent light source. This is emission of light pulses of high intensity overall. This technology can deliver a broad spectrum of wavelength emission that is absorbed by multiple chromophores. We can treat large areas at a time.

the LEDs Light emitting diode (LED, Light Emitting Diode see "The 15 newest Medical breakthrough for skin renewal and Shrinking pores (2004)") The LED: the LED usually emits light at a low intensity of a few milliwatts; classifies them in the category of low power lasers (1 to a few tens of mW).

According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, devices of the LED type will be used.

Examples of LED type devices emitting activating light radiation. commercially available cytochrome C oxidase, there may be mentioned in particular: a) devices that may be used in particular in skin care and / or hair care institutes, such as OmniluxTM system (633nm) from Photo Therapeutics Ltd . -: LumiphaseTM system (660nm) from OPUSMED Inc; Lightwave system (630 nm and IR 880nm) from Lightwave Technologies DelphiaTM and HydroFacialTM (600-700nm and IR 700-1000nm) systems from Edge Systems Corp .; RevitaLight system (625nm; IR 940nm) from Skincare Systems Inc. b) devices that can be used at home, such as those sold on the internet (specialized sites or sales sites, such as e-Bay); we can cite for example the Mini photon Photo Rejuvenation. The light radiation according to the invention is preferably substantially monochromatic (predominant wavelength) with a wavelength ranging from 550 to 1000 nm, preferably from 550 to 800 nm, in particular from 620 to 700 nm; still more preferably from 640 to 680nm, and more preferably around 660nm. According to a particular mode, it may be advantageous to have a device sequentially emitting a green light radiation and a red or infra-red light radiation, to implement the anti-aging effects of one and the other of these lights. In this case, the red light radiation treatment sessions will preferably be shifted in time with respect to the green radiation treatment sessions, to avoid any interference between the effects of the different wavelengths. The sequential application of two devices emitting at different wavelengths thus makes it possible to take advantage of the benefits of each light without interference from one another. Compounds emitting light radiation activating cytochrome C oxidase

According to another embodiment of the invention; or in addition to a device as described above, the light radiation having at least one predominant wavelength activating cytochrome C oxidase is emitted by a compound chosen from the metabolites or emitting active agents, in particular under light exposure (visible , UV), such a predominant wavelength activating cytochrome C oxidase, a light-filtering compound for specifically passing said predominant cytochrome C oxidase-activating wavelength, and mixtures thereof.

According to a preferred embodiment, said compound emits light radiation having at least one predominant wavelength activating cytochrome C oxidase ranging from 550 to 1000 nm, preferably from 550 to 800 nm, in particular from 620 to 700 nm, and still more preferably from 640 to 680nm. . 35 According to a particular mode; said compound emits said light radiation when under light (visible, UV) exposure. This light exposure may be exposure to daylight ('natural' light) or exposure to artificial light using a device. In particular, a device emitting a white or colored light or UV light intended to excite will be used. said compound to enable it to emit said predominant wavelength (ex red). The intensity of this light exposure will be such that it allows said compound to emit said radiation activating cytochrome C oxidase, in particular at a dose ranging from 0.01 to 200 J / cm 2, preferably from 0.1 to 30 J / cm 2, more preferably from 1 to 30 J / cm 2, or even from 5 to 30 J / cm 2.

10. According to another embodiment, said compound emits light radiation without exposure to light: this is the case for compounds with an exothermic reaction (thermoluminescence), or compounds with a chemiluminescence or bioluminescence reaction. According to a variant, said compound emits light radiation, in particular of infra-red type, via an exothermic reaction or thermoluminescence (release of heat); for example by solubilizing CaCl 2 (calcium chloride), ZnCl 2 (zinc chloride), or AlCl 3 (aluminum chloride). This reaction can take place at the time of application to the skin of an anhydrous composition containing said compound, the skin intrinsically containing a sufficient amount of water to trigger the exothermic reaction. According to another variant, said compound emits light radiation by chemiluminescence or bioluminescence reaction. The bioluminescence reaction of luciferin in the presence of the enzyme luciferase, d.'ATP, a mineral (eg magnesium) and dioxygen, which exists naturally in fireflies luciferin + ATP, may be mentioned in particular. + oxyluciferin + AMP + PP; + light

The compound may further be capable of filtering the light that activates the cytochrome C oxidase according to the invention when subjected to natural or artificial light exposure.

These chromic phenomena and the corresponding compounds are described in particular in the reference book Chromic Phenomena, Peter Bamfield's Technological Applications of Color Chemistry, The Royal Society of. Chemistry, 2001 '.

Metabolites and active agents emitting and / or filtering red light These substances are more particularly metabolites or emitting active agents, in particular under light (visible, UV) exposure, light between 550 to 800 nm, preferably from 620 to 700 nm and even more preferentially from 640 to 680nm.

There may be mentioned anthocyanins of red color; pigments or red dyes; iron complexes III; Phosphorescent substances; fluorescent substances and their mixtures.

By way of example, mention may in particular be made of red anthocyanins such as carthamine, cyanidin, delphinidin, pelargonin and betanin; red polyphenols; lycopene, braziléine, Rocou extract, Garance, red pigments, iron complexes III, and mixtures thereof. Preferably, lycopene, delphinidin and mixtures thereof will be used. Red pigments that may be mentioned include carminic acid; laccaic acid, phycoerythrines (algae), and mixtures thereof. Complex iron III compounds include, in particular, complexes with salicylic acid and derivatives (salicylates), with antibacterials such as octopirox, with thiocyanate, and mixtures thereof. As phosphorescent substances, excitable under visible or UV light, there may be mentioned phosphorescent pigments. By "red phosphorescent pigments" is meant the conventional phosphorescent pigments listed hereinafter but also any cosmetically acceptable substance which emits phosphorescent red light radiation with a wavelength of between about 550 to 800 nm, preferably 620 to 700 nm. and even more preferably from 640 to 680 nm.

The presence of phosphorescent pigments provides a continuous source of red light to the composition, the phosphorescence is activated by UV exposure conventionally present in daylight and its effect lasts several hours.

As fluorescent substances, excitable under visible light, UV or near IR, there may be mentioned in particular fluorescent pigments such as Red Nile (excitation 552nm / emission 636nm); glycoconjugate or non-glycoconjugated porphyrin derivatives (420-440 excitation / 650-680 nm emission), and mixtures thereof. In particular, the metabolites or active agents emitting light between 550 and 800 nm, in particular under light exposure, may be chosen from red anthocyanins, such as carthamine, cyanidin, delphinidin, pelargonin, betanine; polyphenols of red color; lycopene; Brazilein, Rocou extract, Garance, red pigments, iron III complexes with salicylic acid, octopirox or thiocyanate, red phosphorescent substances, red fluorescent substances, and mixtures thereof. Preferably, the anthocyanins of red color and / or lycopene will be used. Other red light-filtering compounds It is also possible to use, alternatively and / or in combination with the compounds emitting a light radiation activating the cytochrome C oxidase described above, compounds capable of filtering light in order to specifically pass the light that activates the light. cytochrome C oxidase. By way of example, mention may be made of holographic pigments comprising a polymer matrix in which a volume hologram is recorded, which act as prisms and have the property, by choosing the appropriate refractive index, of emitting light. red when lit by white light. These systems are described by the Applicant in application FR0758017. The volume hologram converts the incident light into one or more beams with spatial and spectral dependencies depending on the parameters of the hologram. An example of a volume hologram is the Denisyuk hologram which is a reflection hologram obtainable in a holographic film using a single laser beam, serving both as an object beam and as a reference beam. as disclosed in EP 1 754 968 A2 and at http://www.smartholograms.com/site/sections/technology/creating-sensors.htm and in EP 1 369 681 A1 (see FIGS. 1b in particular), these publications being incorporated by reference. These red light filtering compounds require light exposure, natural or artificial, to pass specifically the light radiation activating cytochrome C oxidase. These compounds emitting and / or filtering the light that activates cytochrome C oxidase can be used at concentrations sufficient to emit and / or ensure the passage of a quantity of light radiation activating cytochrome C oxidase.

Said emitting and / or filtering compound, in particular under light exposure, a light radiation having at least one predominant wavelength activating cytochrome C oxidase, is present in at least one of the compositions used in the invention, in a content of from 0.0001% to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.001% to 10% by weight, and most preferably from 0.01% to 5% by weight, based on the total weight of said composition. According to a first embodiment, said emitting and / or filtering compound, in particular under light exposure, a light radiation having at least one predominant wavelength activating cytochrome C oxidase, is present in the composition comprising said peptide-increasing agent. expression of the substrate of cytochrome C oxidase and optionally the substrate of cytochrome C oxidase.

According to an alternative method, said emitting and / or filtering compound, especially under light exposure, a light radiation having at least one predominant wavelength of activation of cytochrome C oxidase, is present in a composition distinct from the composition comprising said agent. These compounds that emit and / or filter the light radiation activating the cytochrome C oxidase are used in an amount sufficient to provide a cytokrome C oxidase substrate and enhance the expression of the cytochrome C oxidase substrate and optionally the cytochrome C oxidase substrate. light emission flux from 0.1 to a few tens of mW; Those skilled in the art will adapt the duration of exposure to this light radiation emitted by said compound according to the characteristics of said compound and the desired effect. For purely indicative purposes, the areas of skin and / or the hair to be treated may receive a total energy (dose) delivered to the skin and / or the hair ranging from 0.01 to 200 J / cm 2, preferably from 0.1 to 30 J / cm 2, more preferably from 1 to 30 J / cm 2, or even 30 J / cm 2. According to one particular embodiment, the agent of peptide nature increasing the expression of the substrate of cytochrome C oxidase, and optionally the substrate of the cytochrome C oxidase, is (or is) formulated in a composition intended for administration by 15 topically on the skin.

In another embodiment, the peptide-like agent increasing the expression of the cytochrome C oxidase substrate, and optionally the cytochrome C oxidase substrate, is (or is) formulated in a composition intended for administration by the route Orally.

Preferably, topical administration will be used.

The subject of the invention is also a composition comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium, a) at least one agent of peptide nature increasing the expression of at least one substrate of cytochrome C oxidase, and optionally at least one substrate of cytochrome C oxidase, and at least one emitting and / or filtering compound, especially under light exposure, at least one light radiation having at least one predominant wavelength activating Cytochrome C oxidase.

Said emitting and / or filtering compound, especially under light exposure, radiation having at least one predominant wavelength activating cytochrome C oxidase is as defined above. In particular, it can be chosen from emitting and / or filtering metabolites and active agents, in particular under light exposure, a radiation of predominant wavelength ranging from 550 to 800 nm, preferably from 620 to 700 nm, and more preferably from 640 to 700 nm. at 680nm. By way of examples, there may be mentioned in particular anthocyanins of red color, such as carthamine, cyanidine, delphinidin, pelargonin, betanine; polyphenols of red color; lycopene braziline, Rocou extract, Galance, red pigments, iron III complexes with salicylic acid, octopirox or thiocyanate, red phosphorescent substances, red fluorescent substances, and their mixtures. Preferably, the red anthocyanins, the yycopene and mixtures thereof will be used.

The emitting and / or filtering compound, especially under light exposure, a light radiation having at least one predominant wavelength activating cytochrome C oxidase is present in the composition in a content as described above.

In a preferred embodiment, the cytochrome C oxidase substrate is selected from cytochrome C, one of its cytochrome analogs C1, C2 or C3, and mixtures thereof. It may be present in the composition in the contents described above.

The agent of peptide nature increasing the expression of at least one substrate of cytochrome C oxidase is as described above and may be present in the composition in the contents described above.

The composition may be a cosmetic or pharmaceutical composition. Preferably, it will be a cosmetic composition.

According to a first embodiment, the composition is intended for topical application to the skin and / or the hair.

In another embodiment, the composition is for oral administration.

The composition may further comprise an agent promoting the penetration of said compounds, such as solvents, desquamating agents, and mixtures thereof. Those skilled in the art will ensure that the choice of these additional ingredients is compatible with the application of a device emitting light radiation activating cytochrome C oxidase and does not alter the desired properties.

The subject of the invention is also a kit comprising: a) a composition comprising at least one peptide-type agent increasing the expression of at least one cytochrome C oxidase substrate and at least one compound capable of emitting and / or or filtering light radiation having at least one predominant wavelength activating cytochrome C oxidase, and optionally at least one cytochrome C oxidase substrate; b) a first device allowing said compound present in the first composition to emit and / or filtering said light radiation having at least one predominant wavelength activating cytochrome C oxidase.

According to an alternative, the invention relates to a kit comprising: a) a first composition comprising at least one peptide-type agent increasing the expression of at least one cytochrome C oxidase substrate and optionally at least one cytochrome C substrate; oxidase; b) a second composition comprising at least one compound capable of emitting and / or filtering light radiation having at least one predominant wavelength activating cytochrome C oxidase; c) optionally, a first device enabling said compound present in the second composition to emit and / or filter said light radiation having at least one predominant wavelength activating cytochrome C oxidase. In the case of a compound capable of emitting light radiation activating cytochrome C oxidase, the first device excites said compound so as to emit said light radiation activating cytochrome C oxidase. Said first device may in particular be a device emitting light radiation, having wavelengths of visible, UV and / or near-IR light, a distinct composition intended to be applied to the skin and / or the hair, comprising an additional compound required for the chemiluminescence, bioluminescence or thermoluminescence reaction with said compound.

In particular, the first device may be a device emitting light radiation having wavelengths of visible light and / or UV, depending on the nature of the compound present in the second composition. The device may emit light radiation selected from white light, colored light, and UV light. Preferably it will be visible light and particluier red light. In the case of a compound capable of filtering the cytochrome C oxidase-activating light radiation, the first device is generally light radiation which is filtered by said compound into a light radiation activating cytochrome C oxidase. According to one particular embodiment, the kits described above may furthermore comprise a second device emitting light radiation having at least one predominant wavelength activating cytochrome C oxidase.

The invention further relates to a kit comprising a) a composition comprising at least one peptide-like agent increasing the expression of at least one cytochrome C oxidase substrate and optionally at least one cytochrome C oxidase substrate; ) a device emitting light radiation having at least one predominant wavelength activating cytochrome C oxidase.

The device emitting light radiation having at least one predominant wavelength activating the cytochrome C oxidase is especially chosen from a device emitting white light associated with a specific filter passing through said light radiation activating cytochrome C oxidase (in particular a light radiation having at least one predominant wavelength corresponding to the emission spectrum of red and / or infra-red light), lasers, IPL, LEDs, and combinations thereof.

The agent of peptide nature increasing the expression of at least one substrate of cytochrome C oxidase is as described above, and may be used in the contents described above. The substrate of Cytochrome C oxidase is as described above, and may be used in the contents described above.

Examples of compounds emitting and / or filtering, especially under light exposure, radiation having at least one predominant wavelength activating cytochrome C oxidase are described above.

The kit according to the invention may be a cosmetic kit or a pharmaceutical kit. Preferably, it will be a cosmetic kit.

The constitutive compositions of these kits may be compositions intended for topical or oral administration. Preferably, these will be compositions for topical administration.

GALENICAL

The compositions used in the process, the composition or the kit according to the invention, as described above, are intended for topical and / or oral application.

The composition generally comprises a physiologically acceptable medium, that is to say compatible with the skin and / or its integuments. It is preferably a cosmetically acceptable medium, that is to say which has a pleasant odor, color and feel and which does not generate discomfort (tingling, redness, tightness) unacceptable, susceptible to divert the consumer from using this composition.

For oral administration, in particular in "oral cosmetics", it may be in the form of capsules, capsules, dragees, granules, chewable paste, gels, oral syrups, tablets or any other form known to those skilled in the art. Preferably, it is a topical composition. By topical composition is meant a composition intended for local application on any surface of the body, including the skin, the mucous or semi-mucous membranes, the scalp, the hair. For topical application to the skin, the composition may have the. form of an aqueous solution, hydroalcoholic or oily, optionally gelled, emulsion of liquid or semi-liquid consistency of the milk type, obtained by dispersion of a fatty phase in an aqueous phase (O / W) or conversely (E / H), a triple emulsion (E / HIE or H / E / H), or suspension or emulsion of soft, semi-solid or solid consistency of the cream or gel type, of a liquid, pasty or solid anhydrous product or else microemulsions, microcapsules, microparticles or a vesicular dispersion of ionic type (liposomes or oleosomes) and / or nonionic (niosomes) and / or a dispersion of tiny spheres. It is also possible to envisage a composition in the form of a foam or in the form of a spray or an aerosol then comprising a propellant under pressure; or as a patch or pad soaked. The composition can thus be in the form of a lotion; serum, milk, HIE or EIH cream, gel, ointment, ointment, powder, balm, patch, soaked pad, soap, bread, mousse.

Depending on the area of the target body and the desired intensity of application, the skilled person can choose from among various forms of composition a composition intended to remain applied to the skin even after exposure to light radiation having at least a length of predominant wave activating the cytochrome C oxidase, this composition may be a dispersion of the lotion or gel type, a liquid or semi-liquid emulsion of the milk type, obtained by dispersion of a fatty phase in an aqueous phase (H / E) or conversely (W / O), or a suspension or emulsion of soft, semi-solid or solid consistency of the cream or gel type, or multiple emulsions (E / H / E or H / E / H), a microemulsion, a vesicular dispersion of ionic and / or nonionic type, or a wax / aqueous phase dispersion, a composition which remains in contact with the skin only during the duration of exposure to said cytochrome C oxidizing light radiation ase, such as a mask, in the form of cream that the user can apply specifically to the areas to be treated and then remove, or a soaked patch of a substrate; in this form of administration, the masks or patches must be sufficiently transparent to let the light activating the cytochrome C oxidase. The invention will now be illustrated by the following nonlimiting examples. Figure 1 montage of the in vitro test of the activation of cytochrome C oxidase by red light. Figure 2 emission spectrum of the red light used in the examples

Example 1 Activation of Cvtochrome C oxidase by specific light radiation (red light emission spectrum) The following example measures the stimulating effect of light radiation having a predominant wavelength ranging from 550 to 800nm, particularly from 620 to 700nm on the activity of cytochrome C oxidase.

The exposure of this enzyme to said light radiation stimulates the production of ATP and water molecules according to the following chemical reaction CytC oxidase

4CytC (Fe2 +), + 02+ 4H + 4CytC (Fe3 +) + 2H2O2 ADP + PO4 ATP. 30 Description of the protocol

General principle The principle of this work is to compare the activity of cytochrome C oxidase with or without prior exposure to light radiation having a wavelength ranging from 620 to 700 nm; Materials and reagents 2948876. 33 - light source, with optical fiber (internal diameter 3mm) and IL-1700 photometer probe SED 033 (# 6600) produces light radiation whose emission spectrum is shown in Figure 2 - Cytochrome c (0.22 mM) and Cytochrome c Oxidase (0.32 U / mI): CYTOCOXI kit from SIGMA The reduction of the protein is done by adding the solution of 0.1 M DTT (dithiothreitol) or a final concentration of 0.5 mM. The absorbance is measured at 550 nm and at 565 nm: the A550 / A565 ratio must be between 10 and 20 (checks the conformity of the initial solutions). 10 Mode of exposure of the enzymes The enzyme (dehydrated powder form Cu enzyme solution) is arranged in a conical Ependorf tube. The amount is adjusted so that all the enzymes are subjected to light radiation (wavelength between 620 and 700 nm) by an optical fiber of diameter 3 mm. The light exposure is continuous and the energy provided by the light is 0.45mW / cm2 (see Figure 1: circuit diagram and Figure 2: Emission spectrum of the red light used in the tests). Ependorf tubes are placed in an ice bucket for the duration of the exposure in order to avoid an effect of temperature. The control enzyme (not exposed to said light radiation) is prepared at the same time, in the same manner and protected from said light radiation by a support preventing the supply of external light (aluminum foil). The cytochrome C oxidase is exposed to light radiation (duration of 30 to 90 min), ie an equivalent dose of between 0.8 Joule / cm 2 and 2.4 Joule / cm 2, in solution at a concentration of 0.15 U / ml in a TRIS-HCL pH buffer. 7 containing 0.5 mM sucrose. After exposure, the cytochrome C oxidase is incubated with its substrate, ferrocytochrome C Fe> in a mixture containing 10 mM TRIS HCL PH 7 and 120 mM KCL. The activity of the enzyme is evaluated from the beginning of the reaction. Measurement of Enzyme Activity The absorption of cytochrome C at 550 nm varies with its oxidation state. This property is the basis of our measurement test. Cytochrome C is reduced by Dithiothreitol and reoxidized by cytochrome C oxidase: 125 pI for the control and 125 pI for the sample to be tested are available in the eppendorfs. The sample to be tested is then placed under luminous radiation for a period of 90 minutes.

The variation of the absorbance A550 / min is then measured: The enzymatic activity is then calculated according to the following formula. U / ml (dA / minx dil x 1.1) / (enzyme vol) x 21.84)

The luminous radiation emitting a predominant wavelength in the red significantly stimulates the activity of cytochrome C oxidase (+ 33%) for a duration of irradiation of 90 min, ie a dose equivalent to 2.4 Joule / cm '. Example 2 Examples of formulations Composition associated with a device The formula described below will be applied to the face or body just before prolonged exposure (30 minutes to 1 hour 30 minutes) to light radiation having at least one predominant wavelength from 550 to 1000 nm, preferably from 620 to 700 nm. For example, an OmniluxTM system (633 nm) device from Photo Therapeutics Ltd or a Lightwave TM system (630nm and 880nm) device from OPUSMED Inc. Skin care cream: Ammonium oil-in-water emulsion will be used. Polyacryldimethyltauramide 1.00% (Hostacerin AMPS Clariant) Cyclohexasiloxane 5.0% Glycerin 1.70% Stearyl alcohol 0.30% Glyceryl stearate / PEG-100 stearate 0.70% Dimyristyl tartrate / cetearyl alcohol / C12-15 0.50% pareth -7 / PPG-25 laureth-25 Xanthan gum 0.20% Dynachondrin ISR 0.5% Preservatives 0, 50% Water qs 100% The formula described above may optionally include cytochrome C (0.5%, in%). weight relative to the total weight of the composition). In this case, the amount of water will be reduced by 0.5%.

Iontophoretic patch According to another embodiment, a lontopatch ™ commercial reference patch (Travanti Pharma, Mendota Heights, MN, USA) is applied to an area previously treated with one of the creams above.

It is then connected to an electric current to deliver a galvanic current generated by a potential difference of 1V and having two electrodes, a Zn anode and an AgCl cathode and is exposed to light radiation having at least one length of light. predominant wave ranging from 550 to 1000nm. This treatment is carried out once a day for 30 to 45 minutes. Red mask Oily phase Octyl dodecanol 6% Apricot kernel oil 6% Triglycerides 5%. Kaolin 3% Cetyl Alcohol 2% Vitamin E Acetate 0.5% Hydrogenated Palm Oil 6% Liquid Shea Butter Fraction 5% Aqueous Phase: Xanthan Gum 0.4% Cocoate Desucrose / Sorbitan Stearate 5.5% (Blend sold by the company ICL under the name Arlaton 21121 Glycerine 3% Dipyridamole 0.30% Ethanol 5% Dynachondrine ISR 0.1% 2948876 '36 Delphinidine 0.4% Perfume 0.3% Preservative qs Water gsp100 This mask is applied to the areas of the skin to be treated, then the subject is placed under a source of white light (natural or electrical) for 45 minutes to 1 hour This mask may optionally include cytochrome C (0.1% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition In this case, the amount of water will be reduced by 0.1%.

Claims (23)

REVENDICATIONS1. Cosmetic process intended in particular to improve the appearance of the skin and / or the hair, comprising the simultaneous and / or sequential administration of: a) at least one agent of peptide nature increasing the expression of at least one substrate of the cytochrome C oxidase, and optionally, furthermore at least one substrate of cytochrome C oxidase; and b) at least one light radiation having at least one predominant wavelength activating cytochrome C oxidase. 2. Method according to claim 1, characterized in that the substrate of the cytochrome C oxidase optional is cytochrome C. 3. Method according to any one of claims 1 to 2, characterized in that the agent of peptide nature increases the expression of cytochrome C. 4. Method according to any one of claims 1 to 3, characterized in that the agent of peptide nature is an extract of a peptide nature derived from the hydrolysis of plant proteins. 5. Method according to claim 4, characterized in that said agent of peptide nature is selected from a hydrolyzate of rice protein, corn, soy (Glycine max L.), flax, amaranth. 6. Method according to claim 5, characterized in that said agent of peptide nature is a hydrolyzate of soy protein (Glycine max L.). 7. A method according to any one of claims 1 to 6, wherein the light radiation has at least one predominant wavelength ranging from 550 to 1000 nm, preferably from 550 to 800 nm, in particular from 620 to 700 nm, and more preferably from 640 to 680nm. The method according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the light radiation having at least one predominant wavelength activating cytochrome C oxidase is applied to the skin and / or the hair, especially at the level of the areas. skin and / or hair treated by the composition comprising at least one peptide-like agent increasing the expression of at least one cytochrome C oxidase substrate, and optionally at least one cytochrome C oxidase substrate, at a dose ranging from 0.01 to 200 J / cm 2, preferably from 0.1 to 30 J / cm 2. 9. Method according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the light radiation having at least one predominant wavelength activating the cytochrome C oxidase is emitted by a device chosen in particular from a device emitting white light associated with a filter. specific to said light radiation having at least one predominant wavelength activating cytochrome C oxidase; lasers; IPL; LEDs and their combinations. 10. Method according to claim 9, characterized in that said light radiation is emitted by an LED. The method according to any one of claims 1 to 10, wherein the peptide-like agent increasing the expression of at least one cytochrome C oxidase substrate, and optionally the substrate of cytochrome C oxidase, is (or are) formulated in a composition for topical administration to the skin. The method according to any one of claims 1 to 11, wherein the peptide-like agent increasing the expression of at least one cytochrome C oxidase substrate, and optionally the substrate of cytochrome C oxidase, is (or are) formulated in a composition for oral administration. 13. A process according to any one of claims 1 to 12, wherein the cytochrome C oxidase substrate is present in the composition in a content of from 0.0001 to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.01 to 10% by weight, and most preferably, from 0.02 to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of said composition. 35 The method according to any one of claims 1 to 13, wherein the peptide-like agent increasing the expression of at least one cytochrome oxidase substrate is present in the composition in a content of from 0.0001 to 20. % by weight, preferably from 0.01 to 10% by weight, and most preferably from 0.02 to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of said composition. 15. Method according to any one of the preceding claims, aimed at: improving the hydration of the skin and / or the hair; and / or improve the skin barrier function; and / or promote the regeneration of dermal and / or epidermal cells, in particular to improve the surface condition of cracks and / or frostbites, and / or - to prevent and / or fight against the signs of aging of the skin and / or hair ; and / or prevent and / or treat hair loss, slowing of their growth, their graying, the decrease in their diameter, their vigor. 16. A method according to any one of the preceding claims, aimed at attenuating the visible or tactile irregularities of the surface of the skin, in particular attenuating wrinkles and fine lines, attenuating cutaneous spots, reducing the alterations of the microrelief and / or smoothing the skin. skin, promote the regeneration of the skin tissue, lighten the complexion and / or improve the dullness of the complexion, maintain and / or improve the biomechanical properties of the skin (elasticity, firmness, tonicity), maintain and / or improve the hydration of the skin, and / or maintain and / or improve the skin's texture. 17. A composition comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium, a) at least one peptide-like agent increasing the expression of at least one cytochrome C oxidase substrate, and optionally, at least one cytochrome C oxidase substrate. and b) at least one emitting and / or filtering compound, especially under light exposure, a light radiation having at least one predominant wavelength activating Cytochrome C oxidase. 18. The composition according to claim 17, wherein said peptide-like agent increasing the expression of at least one cytochrome C oxidase substrate is as defined in any one of claims 3 to 6. 19. Kit comprising: 35a) a composition comprising at least one peptide-like agent increasing the expression of at least one cytochrome C oxidase substrate, and at least one compound capable of emitting and / or filtering light radiation having at least one predominant wavelength activating cytochrome C oxidase, and optionally, further, at least one substrate of cytochrome C oxidase; b) a first device allowing said compound present in the first composition to emit and / or filter said light radiation having at least one predominant wavelength activating cytochrome C oxidase. 20. A kit comprising: a) a first composition comprising at least one peptide-like agent increasing the expression of at least one cytochrome C oxidase substrate, and optionally, further, at least one cytochrome C oxidase substrate; b) a second composition comprising at least one compound capable of emitting and / or filtering light radiation having at least one predominant wavelength activating cytochrome C oxidase; C) optionally, a first device allowing said compound present in the second composition to emit and / or filter said light radiation having at least one predominant wavelength activating cytochrome C oxidase. 25 Kit comprising: a) a composition comprising at least one peptide-like agent increasing the expression of at least one cytochrome C oxidase substrate, and optionally, at least one cytochrome C oxidase substrate; B) a device emitting light radiation having at least one predominant wavelength activating cytochrome C oxidase. 22. Kit according to claim 21, characterized in that the device emitting light radiation having at least one predominant wavelength activating the cytochrome C oxidase, is chosen from a device emitting white light associated with a specific filter leaving passing said radiation activating cytochrome C oxidase, lasers, IPL, LEDs, and combinations thereof. 23. Kit according to any one of claims 21 to 22, characterized in that the agent of peptic nature increasing the expression of at least one substrate of cytochrome C oxidase is as described in one of the claims. 3 to 6.