WO2010067323A1 - Procédé de traitement d'une fibre kératinique avec la lumière pour obtenir la rémanence de sa forme préalablement à l'irradiation - Google Patents

Procédé de traitement d'une fibre kératinique avec la lumière pour obtenir la rémanence de sa forme préalablement à l'irradiation Download PDF

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Publication number
WO2010067323A1
WO2010067323A1 PCT/IB2009/055646 IB2009055646W WO2010067323A1 WO 2010067323 A1 WO2010067323 A1 WO 2010067323A1 IB 2009055646 W IB2009055646 W IB 2009055646W WO 2010067323 A1 WO2010067323 A1 WO 2010067323A1
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WO
WIPO (PCT)
Prior art keywords
fiber
stress
irradiation
light
hair
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Application number
PCT/IB2009/055646
Other languages
English (en)
Inventor
Henri Samain
Original Assignee
L'oreal
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Filing date
Publication date
Application filed by L'oreal filed Critical L'oreal
Publication of WO2010067323A1 publication Critical patent/WO2010067323A1/fr

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Classifications

    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A45—HAND OR TRAVELLING ARTICLES
    • A45D—HAIRDRESSING OR SHAVING EQUIPMENT; EQUIPMENT FOR COSMETICS OR COSMETIC TREATMENTS, e.g. FOR MANICURING OR PEDICURING
    • A45D7/00—Processes of waving, straightening or curling hair
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A45—HAND OR TRAVELLING ARTICLES
    • A45D—HAIRDRESSING OR SHAVING EQUIPMENT; EQUIPMENT FOR COSMETICS OR COSMETIC TREATMENTS, e.g. FOR MANICURING OR PEDICURING
    • A45D1/00—Curling-tongs, i.e. tongs for use when hot; Curling-irons, i.e. irons for use when hot; Accessories therefor
    • A45D1/02—Curling-tongs, i.e. tongs for use when hot; Curling-irons, i.e. irons for use when hot; Accessories therefor with means for internal heating, e.g. by liquid fuel
    • A45D1/04—Curling-tongs, i.e. tongs for use when hot; Curling-irons, i.e. irons for use when hot; Accessories therefor with means for internal heating, e.g. by liquid fuel by electricity
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A45—HAND OR TRAVELLING ARTICLES
    • A45D—HAIRDRESSING OR SHAVING EQUIPMENT; EQUIPMENT FOR COSMETICS OR COSMETIC TREATMENTS, e.g. FOR MANICURING OR PEDICURING
    • A45D19/00—Devices for washing the hair or the scalp; Similar devices for colouring the hair
    • A45D19/012—Devices for colouring or bleaching separated strands of hair, e.g. highlighting
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A45—HAND OR TRAVELLING ARTICLES
    • A45D—HAIRDRESSING OR SHAVING EQUIPMENT; EQUIPMENT FOR COSMETICS OR COSMETIC TREATMENTS, e.g. FOR MANICURING OR PEDICURING
    • A45D2/00—Hair-curling or hair-waving appliances ; Appliances for hair dressing treatment not otherwise provided for
    • A45D2/001—Hair straightening appliances
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A45—HAND OR TRAVELLING ARTICLES
    • A45D—HAIRDRESSING OR SHAVING EQUIPMENT; EQUIPMENT FOR COSMETICS OR COSMETIC TREATMENTS, e.g. FOR MANICURING OR PEDICURING
    • A45D2/00—Hair-curling or hair-waving appliances ; Appliances for hair dressing treatment not otherwise provided for
    • A45D2/12—Hair winders or hair curlers for use parallel to the scalp, i.e. flat-curlers
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A45—HAND OR TRAVELLING ARTICLES
    • A45D—HAIRDRESSING OR SHAVING EQUIPMENT; EQUIPMENT FOR COSMETICS OR COSMETIC TREATMENTS, e.g. FOR MANICURING OR PEDICURING
    • A45D7/00—Processes of waving, straightening or curling hair
    • A45D7/06—Processes of waving, straightening or curling hair combined chemical and thermal
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61B—DIAGNOSIS; SURGERY; IDENTIFICATION
    • A61B18/00—Surgical instruments, devices or methods for transferring non-mechanical forms of energy to or from the body
    • A61B18/18—Surgical instruments, devices or methods for transferring non-mechanical forms of energy to or from the body by applying electromagnetic radiation, e.g. microwaves
    • A61B18/20—Surgical instruments, devices or methods for transferring non-mechanical forms of energy to or from the body by applying electromagnetic radiation, e.g. microwaves using laser
    • A61B18/203—Surgical instruments, devices or methods for transferring non-mechanical forms of energy to or from the body by applying electromagnetic radiation, e.g. microwaves using laser applying laser energy to the outside of the body
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A45—HAND OR TRAVELLING ARTICLES
    • A45D—HAIRDRESSING OR SHAVING EQUIPMENT; EQUIPMENT FOR COSMETICS OR COSMETIC TREATMENTS, e.g. FOR MANICURING OR PEDICURING
    • A45D2200/00—Details not otherwise provided for in A45D
    • A45D2200/20—Additional enhancing means
    • A45D2200/205—Radiation, e.g. UV, infrared
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61B—DIAGNOSIS; SURGERY; IDENTIFICATION
    • A61B18/00—Surgical instruments, devices or methods for transferring non-mechanical forms of energy to or from the body
    • A61B2018/00315—Surgical instruments, devices or methods for transferring non-mechanical forms of energy to or from the body for treatment of particular body parts
    • A61B2018/00452—Skin
    • A61B2018/00476—Hair follicles
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61B—DIAGNOSIS; SURGERY; IDENTIFICATION
    • A61B18/00—Surgical instruments, devices or methods for transferring non-mechanical forms of energy to or from the body
    • A61B18/18—Surgical instruments, devices or methods for transferring non-mechanical forms of energy to or from the body by applying electromagnetic radiation, e.g. microwaves
    • A61B18/20—Surgical instruments, devices or methods for transferring non-mechanical forms of energy to or from the body by applying electromagnetic radiation, e.g. microwaves using laser
    • A61B2018/2035—Beam shaping or redirecting; Optical components therefor
    • A61B2018/20351—Scanning mechanisms
    • A61B2018/20355—Special scanning path or conditions, e.g. spiral, raster or providing spot overlap
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61N—ELECTROTHERAPY; MAGNETOTHERAPY; RADIATION THERAPY; ULTRASOUND THERAPY
    • A61N5/00—Radiation therapy
    • A61N5/06—Radiation therapy using light
    • A61N2005/0658—Radiation therapy using light characterised by the wavelength of light used
    • A61N2005/0659—Radiation therapy using light characterised by the wavelength of light used infrared
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61N—ELECTROTHERAPY; MAGNETOTHERAPY; RADIATION THERAPY; ULTRASOUND THERAPY
    • A61N5/00—Radiation therapy
    • A61N5/06—Radiation therapy using light
    • A61N2005/0658—Radiation therapy using light characterised by the wavelength of light used
    • A61N2005/0662—Visible light
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61N—ELECTROTHERAPY; MAGNETOTHERAPY; RADIATION THERAPY; ULTRASOUND THERAPY
    • A61N5/00—Radiation therapy
    • A61N5/06—Radiation therapy using light
    • A61N5/0613—Apparatus adapted for a specific treatment
    • A61N5/0616—Skin treatment other than tanning
    • A61N5/0617—Hair treatment

Definitions

  • the present invention relates to cosmetic treatment of keratinous fibers. More particularly, the invention relates to a permanent modification to the shape of hairs and eyelashes.
  • One purpose may be to increase or decrease the volume of the hair.
  • Hairdressing methods exist that make use of drying keratinous fibers while they are in a given shape. That approach, which is implemented when setting or blow-drying, relies on ionic bonds being created inside the keratinous fibers, and it has the advantage of damaging keratinous fibers very little or not at all. Nevertheless, shaping performed in that way does not persist after the hair has been washed, and even without washing, the shape does not last for more than a few days.
  • Another approach relies on using chemical compounds capable of interacting with certain covalent bonds of keratinous fibers.
  • Such treatments are known as chemical treatments for permanent modification of shape.
  • Various chemical compositions may be used, such as thiol reducing agents, in particular thioglycolic acid and cysteine, or alkaline or sulfite reducing agents.
  • Such chemical compounds serve to modify bonds internal to keratinous fibers, such as the disulfide bonds of proteins or peptide bonds.
  • the shape as obtained in this way withstands washing well and may last for several months. Nevertheless, that type of chemical treatment can make fibers porous, damages them, and weakens them, and can lead to them taking on an appearance that is rough, or even softened when wet.
  • coloring or bleaching is generally not associated with permanent chemical shaping, since both methods weaken keratinous fibers and using them in combination could lead to hairs breaking, e.g. at their bases or at their tips.
  • chemical shaping treatments can give off disagreeable odors, e.g. a thiol odor, when they are applied or subsequently when the hair is washed.
  • EP 0 685 220, US 4 792 341, US 5 303 722, EP 0 685 180, and US 5 246 019 disclose techniques for bleaching hair by subjecting it to light pulses.
  • Infrared light is also used in known manner for accelerating chemical processes for treating hair. In itself, it does not provide an effect of transforming the shape of hair.
  • US 5 875 789 describes a method of deforming hair with the help of ultrasound. That method is described as enabling a permanent wave to be made, or enabling hair to be smoothed, as desired, with the changeover from one shape to the other being reversible.
  • WO 2007/134224 describes a device for activating a hair treatment.
  • the object of the present invention is to make available a method for shaping keratinous fibers, in particular hair, that enables hair to be degraded less and that is more compatible with other hair treatments such as coloring and/or bleaching.
  • the present invention provides a method of treating keratinous fibers, the method comprising the steps consisting in: a) shaping at least a portion of at least one keratinous fiber; and b) exposing said portion to at least one light pulse tending to confer remanent deformation to the fiber, in particular a remanent shape corresponding to the shape to which the fiber has been put.
  • the exposure to the light pulse may enable internal bonds, such as covalent bonds, for example, to be formed within the fiber, thereby contributing to making the shape remanent .
  • curly or frizzy hair can be made smooth, or hair that is naturally smooth can be curled or twisted.
  • the treatment may be performed with or without bleaching the keratinous fibers.
  • the treatment may be performed over one or more portions of the fiber, e.g. portions that are each less than 1 millimeter (mm) in length, and possibly less than 300 micrometers ( ⁇ m) .
  • the treatment may confer on the fiber a change in the direction of its longitudinal axis of at least 5° on either side of the treated portion.
  • the light pulse (s) may be emitted via at least one light outlet of an irradiation device.
  • the invention makes it possible to avoid damaging the keratinous fibers. Another advantage is that the shaping treatment of the invention is compatible with coloring or bleaching or with chemical treatments. In addition, the treatment does not give off any odor and it does not leave any residual odor.
  • the treatment method of the invention may be performed completely dry, e.g. achieving a saving in time and making it possible to view the shape of the hair while it is being treated.
  • the method according to the invention may, for example, exclude the application on the keratinous fibers of a composition which can be activated by exposure to light.
  • the method may also be performed without coming into contact with the scalp, thereby making it suitable for people having a scalp that is sensitive.
  • the treated keratinous fibers may be hairs of the body, hairs of the head, eyelashes, or eyebrows.
  • the shaping of the keratinous fibers may be performed in various ways, e.g. by applying a bending, straightening, compression, twisting, traction, and/or tension stress thereon. Bending may be performed with or without tension along the fiber. Twisting may take place with or without bending, with or without tension along the fiber.
  • the fiber may be under tension or without tension while it is being irradiated.
  • Direct tension i.e. tension that is applied at the same time as the light treatment, or remembered tension, e.g. created prior to the light treatment: in order to straighten curly hair or in order to curl stiff hair.
  • Shaping may be performed at least by applying a stress to the fiber, said stress being exerted by a stress-applying device, that , for example, comes into contact with at least one keratinous fiber.
  • the stress may exist at the time of irradiation or it may cease to exist prior to irradiation, with the fiber conserving a certain amount of deformation associated with the application of the stress.
  • Shaping may be performed with the help of an article that is malleable or otherwise deformable and that is capable of conserving the shape into which it is put, and to which the fiber (s) for treatment is/are secured.
  • the application of stress may comprise a step of positioning keratinous fibers in a keratinous fiber guide passage of the stress-applying device, so that the fibers take on the desired shape in front of the light outlet from the irradiation device that delivers the light pulse (s) .
  • the stress-applying device and the irradiation device may be incorporated within a single appliance.
  • a force e.g. a traction force
  • the traction may be exerted by pinching or pulling or moving by friction with a tool coming into contact therewith.
  • the tension may be exerted by blowing or by suction.
  • a step of pointing the light outlet relative to the portion of keratinous fiber that is to be set in its shape may precede the step of exposing it to the light pulse (s) .
  • a manual, automatic, or semiautomatic step of adjusting the irradiation device and/or the stress- applying device may precede the shaping step and/or the light-exposure step.
  • the shaping may be performed at least in part by a treatment involving wetting the keratinous fiber, e.g. with water, and possibly also drying it.
  • the stress may, for example, be exerted at least by a treatment that includes wetting the fiber.
  • the shaping may be performed at least in part by a composition that is applied to the surface of the keratinous fiber, e.g. a composition that induces a stress on the keratinous fiber on drying.
  • the stress may, for example, be exerted at least by one composition applied to the surface of the fiber, in particular a composition that induces a stress on the fiber on drying.
  • a plurality of mutually separate segments of the keratinous fiber may be treated.
  • the mutually separate segments may be treated, either in succession or simultaneously.
  • the treated keratinous fiber may be subjected, prior to irradiation, to a mechanical stress that is variable or not as a function of position along the keratinous fiber.
  • a mechanical stress that is variable or not as a function of position along the keratinous fiber.
  • the same shape or different shapes may be given to different segments of the treated fiber prior to irradiating them.
  • the stresses applied to these segments may differ in terms of magnitude and/or direction .
  • steps a) and b) may be applied successively at least twice to the same portion of keratinous fiber or on different portions.
  • steps a) and b) may be applied successively at least twice to the same portion of keratinous fiber or on different portions.
  • Repeating step a) may optionally consist in maintaining the portion of fiber in the configuration it had during the first irradiation, or in progressively increasing the applied stress, e.g. in order to increase or decrease the curvature and/or the twist of the fiber.
  • the light pulse may satisfy at least one of the following characteristics, and preferably most or even all of them: • the number of shots is greater than or equal to 2, better 5, or even 10, 100, or 1000;
  • pulse duration may lie in the range 10 ⁇ 18 seconds (s) to 10 "5 s, for example 10 ⁇ 16 s to 10 ⁇ 5 s, better in the range 10 "15 s to 10 "7 s;
  • the wavelength may lie in the range 300 nanometers (nm) to 2000 nm, for example 400 nm to 2000 nm, e.g. lying in the range 400 nm to 1050 nm, better in the range 500 nm to 600 nm;
  • the energy density per unit area, for example of the treated fiber may lie in the range O.OlxlO "3 joules per square millimeter (J/mm 2 ) to 5OxIO "3 J/mm 2 , for example
  • 0,IxIO- 3 J/mm 2 to 5OxIO "3 J/mm 2 e.g. it may lie in the range 0.5 millijoules per square millimeter (mJ/mm 2 ) to
  • the peak power may lie in the range 10 6 watts (W) to lOOOxlO 9 W, e.g. at a density of 1 gigawatts per square millimeter (GW/mm 2 ) to 100 GW/mm 2 -
  • the wavelength of the light pulse may be greater than 400 nm.
  • the wavelength of the light pulse may be less than
  • the treatment may include selecting one treatment condition amongst several, as a function of the desired degree of remanent deformation. For example, it is possible to select the frequency of the shots and/or the number of shots as a function of the desired result.
  • a given portion of keratinous fiber may be subjected during treatment to a plurality of pulses, in particular to a number lying in the range 1 to 10,000 pulses, better 5 to 10,000 pulses, preferably at a pulse frequency (or repetition rate) lying in the range 5 hertz (Hz) to
  • 10 5 Hz for example 10 to 10 5 Hz, better 100 Hz to 10 5 Hz, better still 500 Hz to 10 5 Hz.
  • a variable irradiation may, for example, be exerted on the fiber as a function of position along the fiber.
  • Two segments of a single fiber may be treated with light pulses that differ, e.g. in frequency of shots, number of shots, and/or fluence.
  • light pulses that differ, e.g. in frequency of shots, number of shots, and/or fluence.
  • For given stress that may enable different shapes to be obtained after irradiation without modifying the adjustment of the stress-applying device. For example, this makes it possible to use a single stress-applying device while obtaining varying results.
  • the irradiation device may comprise a laser, e.g. associated with at least one optical component for deflecting and/or diffracting the beam it produces and/or a scanner device enabling the beam it produces to be deflected.
  • scanning may make it possible to treat in succession a plurality of segments of a single keratinous fiber and/or a plurality of fibers of a single mesh.
  • the irradiation device may include a non-linear optical component, e.g. a wavelength divider, so as to modify the wavelength of the light leaving the laser before it reaches the fibers.
  • the irradiation device may include a collimator device and/or one or more light filters, e.g. adapted to the color of the keratinous fibers being treated.
  • a treatment system is used that is arranged to servo-control the operation of the irradiation device to movement of the stress-applying device relative to the keratinous fiber or to movement of the fiber relative to the irradiation device in the absence of a stress-application device.
  • the light pulses may be emitted at predefined intervals onto the keratinous fiber while the fiber is moving relative to the irradiation device.
  • a sensor for sensing movement of the keratinous fibers may transmit a signal representative of the movement of the keratinous fibers relative to the irradiation device to a computer unit of the treatment system, which unit executes a program, e.g. a program having settings that may be adjusted as a function of characteristics of the stress-applying device and of the irradiation device.
  • a program e.g. a program having settings that may be adjusted as a function of characteristics of the stress-applying device and of the irradiation device.
  • Step a) of shaping may be performed manually, e.g. by deforming keratinous fibers in bending and/or in twisting, using a clamp or tongs or some other hand-held tool, e.g. a brush or a comb.
  • the tool used for shaping the hair may optionally be left in the hair, e.g. being constituted by a curler or by a small article of plastics material such as an article in the form of a hollow cylinder in which fibers may be engaged and enabling light to be transmitted.
  • the irradiation step may be followed by a step of automatically releasing the keratinous fibers from the clamp or other tool used for shaping.
  • Irradiation may be triggered by the user or it may be triggered automatically, e.g. when a certain contact pressure with the keratinous fiber (s) is achieved and/or when the irradiation device is in a certain position relative to the fiber (s) for treatment and/or when a desired degree of deformation of the fiber has been reached.
  • a deformation of the fiber may be observed by a camera and irradiation may be triggered when the fiber passes through a predefined deformation state .
  • the present invention also provides a treatment system for inducing remanent deformation in at least a portion of at least one keratinous fiber, in particular a mesh of hair, the system comprising:
  • a device for shaping at least a portion of the keratinous fiber, in particular the mesh of hair e.g. by applying a stress in bending, straightening, compression, twisting, and/or traction;
  • an irradiation device for exposing said portion of keratinous fiber as shaped in this way to a light pulse that tends to confer remanent deformation to the fiber, in particular deformation corresponding to that conferred by the stress-applying device.
  • the present invention also provides a system for treating, for example for inducing remanent deformation in, at least a portion of at least one keratinous fiber, in particular a mesh of hair, the system comprising: • a device for applying a bending, straightening, compression, twisting, and/or traction stress to at least a portion of the fiber; and
  • an irradiation device for exposing said at least a portion of the keratinous fiber as stressed in this way to a light pulse that tends to confer remanent deformation to the fiber, in particular a deformation corresponding to that conferred by the stress-applying device .
  • the remanent modification to the shape that is induced by the treatment may be visible to the naked eye.
  • the stress-applying device may for example create an angle along the longitudinal axis of the fiber, e.g. an angle lying in the range 5° to 180°, or even more.
  • the stress-applying device and the light outlet from the irradiation device may be incorporated in a common handpiece, thus enabling them to be manipulated simultaneously by the user.
  • the entire irradiation device may be portable and incorporated in the handpiece.
  • the light outlet is connected by one or more optical fibers to a light generator, e.g. a laser.
  • the light generator may form part of a base station that remains stationary during treatment.
  • the handpiece includes a light generator that is electrically powered by a base station connected to the handpiece by at least one electric cable.
  • the treatment system may optionally include a device for cooling or heating the keratinous fibers exposed to the light pulse (s) .
  • the cooling device may be incorporated in the handpiece or it may be situated at least in part in a base station connected to the handpiece by at least one duct in which air or a liquid flows .
  • Cooling the fibers may enable the irradiation energy to be increased. Heating the fibers may be useful for shaping them prior to irradiating them.
  • the treatment system e.g. the handpiece and/or the stress-applying device, may present a grip surface defined by two branches of a pair of tongs or by a handle.
  • the tongs may be used for example to shape the hair, when actuated prior to the irradiation being applied.
  • the treatment system may be arranged to apply a composition onto the fiber (s) for treatment or after irradiation.
  • the treatment system may include a reservoir of fluid for application to the keratinous fibers, e.g. for direct or indirect application.
  • the applied fluid may be a keratinous fiber conditioning fluid that is applied to the fibers prior to irradiation.
  • the fluid may have tension properties and may comprise, for example: polymers, resins or reactive polymers or materials capable of shrinking or expanding over time, by evaporation or by curing.
  • the conditioning fluid may be at the origin of the shape given to the fibers prior to irradiation, for example it may curl them or it may stiffen them, or it may contribute to holding them in a shape that is given to them by the user, where the user is a hairdresser, for example.
  • the conditioning fluid may also be medium having a refractive index that is greater than or equal to 1.3, for example less or equal to 1.5, e.g. an alcohol, a polyol, a ketone, or a silicone.
  • a fluid having a relatively high refractive index can facilitate the transmission of light to the fiber and can improve the effectiveness of the irradiation treatment.
  • the fiber (s) may be irradiated by the treatment system in a treatment zone that is defined at least in part by a wall of the treatment system, into which the light outlet opens out.
  • the outlet may be defined by a window, a lens, or the end of a light pipe, for example.
  • the light outlet may also be defined by a movable member such as a mirror, for example, optionally under the control of one or more motors so as to be capable of controlling the direction in which light is emitted.
  • a pilot light may be emitted before the irradiation so as to determine the location of the impact of the treatment light beam, where appropriate.
  • a deformable material may fill a housing of the treatment zone, so as to press the fiber (s) for treatment against the above-mentioned wall or against a guide passage, in order to perform shaping.
  • a protective shield may be placed facing the light outlet behind the fiber (s) for treatment, so as to prevent the light rays from propagating outside the treatment system.
  • the treatment system may be arranged to prevent irradiation being triggered in situations that do not enable the looked-for result to be obtained, e.g. situations that might degrade the fiber or that might be ineffective .
  • Triggering and/or application of stress may be performed automatically during movement of a handpiece of the treatment system along the fibers.
  • Figures 2 to 4 are schematic diagrams showing examples of treated keratinous fibers
  • Figure 5 is a block diagram of an example of a treatment system
  • Figures 10 and 11 are bloc diagrams showing examples of methods of the invention.
  • Figure 12 shows an example of a two-hair setup for performing remanent deformation tests.
  • the invention implements irradiation of keratinous fibers by pulsed light, i.e. by using pulses of light.
  • pulsed light i.e. by using pulses of light.
  • These pulses may be generated in a variety of ways, preferably with the help of a laser, however other sources, e.g. a flash lamp, may be envisaged providing they are capable of delivering pulses suitable for inducing remanent deformation in keratinous fibers.
  • the light used for the treatment of the invention presents a pulse duration that is relatively short and a peak power that is relatively large.
  • the duration d of a pulse is the duration d during which the light power reaching keratinous fibers is greater than or equal to half its peak power Pc, as shown in Figure 1.
  • keratinous fibers are exposed locally, at a given location, to a plurality of successive pulses.
  • the successive pulses serve to diminish the risk of damaging the keratinous fibers, with the fibers then being irradiated progressively.
  • the duration of a pulse may lie for example in the range 10 ⁇ 16 s to 10 ⁇ 5 s, and better in the range 10 ⁇ 15 s to 10 "7 s.
  • the number of light pulses to which a given portion of keratinous fibers is exposed may be adjusted as a function of the energy density per unit area of the radiation that reaches the keratinous fibers, as a function of the color of the keratinous fibers, and as a function of the treatment that is to be performed.
  • the shots are preferably fired at a repetition rate that is greater than or equal to 5 Hz, or to 100 Hz, or indeed greater than or equal to 200 Hz, 500 Hz, or 1 kHz, while preferably being less than 100 kHz.
  • the memorization by the keratinous fiber of the shape imparted to it is obtained very quickly under the effect of the light, for example in less than one millisecond.
  • the dominant wavelength of the light reaching the fibers may lie in the range 300 nm to 10,000 nm, preferably in the range 400 nm to 2000 nm.
  • the dominant wavelength may lie in the visible, ultraviolet, or infrared spectrum.
  • various optical filters, absorbent or dichroic filters may be used to filter the light irradiating the fiber, such as for example filters that reject ultraviolet light or colored filters that enable the natural or artificial color of the keratinous fibers to be protected.
  • the colored filters make it possible, for example, to eliminate or reduce strongly certain components of the light, e.g. components corresponding to the absorption bands of hair dyes, or to other absorption bands.
  • the characteristics of the emitted light may be adjusted manually or automatically, the optical components being designed, for example, to be changed or moved so as to modify the focusing or the dominant wavelength of the light.
  • the wavelength of the light projected onto the fiber for treatment may be selected automatically or manually.
  • a user may act manually to change an optical component such as a lens or a filter through which the light radiation passes in use.
  • Servo-control may also be provided to perform automatic adjustment of irradiation parameters, e.g. by adjusting one or more optical components, said optical component (s) being moved by actuators under the control of one or more control signals, for example.
  • the control signals may be transmitted by the calculation unit of the processor system, e.g. as a function of data received from one or more sensors, such as for example an optical sensor or a camera capable of detecting different kinds or colors of hair.
  • Automatic adjustment may also be performed, at least on the basis of answers to a questionnaire concerning the hair of the person for treatment.
  • the electrical power supply to the irradiation device may be independent, e.g. it may be portable and incorporated in a handpiece.
  • picosecond lasers of pulse duration in the range of 10 "12 s to 1 ns.
  • flash-pumped lasers that generally present a pulse duration of around one-tenth of a picosecond to one nanosecond, or diode-pumped lasers of pulse duration that generally lies in the range one nanosecond to about one hundred nanoseconds.
  • femtosecond lasers which are generally diode pumped, and which make use of materials presenting broadband gain together with an appropriate mode-blocking device, whether a semiconductor device or a dye device.
  • femtosecond lasers making use of a frequency-doubled neodymium YAG laser (532 nm) (flash or diode pumped) for pumping a titanium-sapphire material (at around 800 nm) .
  • the irradiation device comprises a laser having a cavity made of two mirrors situated on either side of a broadband amplifier material, e.g. based on titanium-sapphire or based on ytterbium.
  • the cavity may also be formed by an optical fiber of an amplifier material.
  • the irradiation device may include a mode- blocking device.
  • the irradiation device may include a lens associated with the laser, having a numerical aperture lying in the range 0.1 to 10, for example, such as a lens used for reading optical data storage disks.
  • the irradiation device may also include a coupler for injecting the pump light and a coupler for extracting the laser pulses.
  • the pump light may for example be produced by a diode, but it could also be produced by a flash lamp or by another laser .
  • each shot may for example have a peak power lying in the range 1 megawatt (MW) to 1000 GW, better in the range 1 MW to 100 GW.
  • the irradiation device uses a laser of mean electrical power lying in the range
  • the number of shots to which a treated portion is subjected may, for example, lie in the range 1 to 10,000 shots, preferably in the range 5 to 1000 shots.
  • the light reaching the keratinous fibers may for example, present fluence of about 0.1 joules per square centimeter (J/cm 2 ) to a few J/cm 2 , e.g. less than 5 J/cm 2 .
  • the fluence may vary over the range 0.01 mJ/mm 2 to 50 mJ/mm 2 , e.g. as a function of efficiencies, of pulse duration, or of adjustments performed at a function of hair type.
  • a user interface e.g. with a screen and one or more selection keys, may for example enable various different modes of operation to be selected and/or enable pulse duration, energy per shot, and/or shot frequency to be modified, as described below.
  • Non-linear optical components may be used for doubling or tripling frequency or for spreading the light spectrum reaching the treated fibers.
  • the irradiation device may include a collimator device for collimating the light beam and may thus use a lower power laser for identical irradiation energy, but the laser must nevertheless be of sufficient power to perform the desired treatment on hair.
  • the collimator device may be adjustable so as to adjust the fluence of the light reaching the keratinous fibers.
  • the adjustment may be performed manually or automatically, e.g. as a function of the color of the keratinous fibers for treatment or as a function of the adjusted or stored degree of deformation.
  • the collimation device may include a plurality of converging and/or diverging lenses.
  • the irradiation device may be used in the proximity of the hair, or use may be made of light transport.
  • Various optical elements may be used for transporting light, such as collimation optics, one or more mirrors, and/or optical deflectors and/or a light pipe, such as one or more optical fibers.
  • An optical deflector may be used for directing the path of light rays as a function of addressing data.
  • the optical deflector may be controlled by the computer unit for bringing the light beam onto the portion of the keratinous fibers that is to be treated.
  • the irradiation device may also be fitted with light confinement or absorption means for the purpose of trapping light and preventing it from diffusing away from a treatment zone.
  • the light outlet may be of any form, and it may be single or multiple.
  • the irradiation device may include a circular light outlet or an outlet that is in the form of one or more slots, which may have a variety of profiles.
  • Treated fibers Various types of keratinous fiber may be treated.
  • the invention is preferably applied to hair.
  • a keratinous fiber F may be treated at one or more locations Z along its length, as shown in Figures 2 and
  • Figure 2 there can be seen a hair F that is treated at two segments that are spaced apart from each other, the segments being situated between the base of the fiber where it is attached to the scalp C, and its free end.
  • Figure 3 shows treatment being applied to a distal portion of the hair F.
  • the point of impact of light pulses on the fiber (s) for treatment may for example describe a predefined trajectory at the surface of the treated fiber (s), e.g. a helix, as shown in Figure 4.
  • the light enables proteins to be reorganized.
  • a shape is imposed to the hair or to a mesh of keratinous fibers or at least to a portion of a keratinous fiber, prior to irradiating it.
  • this shaping of keratinous fibers may be performed in conventional manner by styling the hair, e.g. by blow-drying, setting, permanent wave, or straightening.
  • the shaping may also be performed using a device for applying a stress to the hair, which device may be secured to the irradiation device.
  • Various shapes may be given to the fibers before they are treated, for example they may be waved, smoothed, curled, deformed at the base, at the tip, creased at one or more locations along their length, or twisted.
  • a stiff fiber (radius of curvature of 20 cm or more) may be shaped on rollers having a radius of 0.25 cm to 3 cm, so as to give it a radius of curvature close to the radius of curvature of the roller or greater than that.
  • Precise shapes may be imposed to hair prior to irradiation, such as one or more waves, one or more rounded curves, a spiral, a helix, a bent line shape, undulation, a looped shape, a staircase shape, a shape that is polygonal, in particular triangular, so as to produce a variety of appearance effects.
  • both stress and irradiation may be applied to one or more keratinous fibers to perform shaping contrary to shaping previously obtained by means of a stress-applying device, e.g. using jaws of a different shape, e.g. of opposite shape, for the purpose of clamping into the fibers.
  • Chemicals used for a permanent wave may be used as well as the stress-applying device so as to maintain the shape prior to irradiation, e.g. with the doses of active chemicals being reduced.
  • the irradiation treatment may be complemented by active chemical compounds such as those used for chemical transformation shaping, e.g. thioglycolic acid, cysteine, esters of thioglycolic acid, sulfites, alkaline compounds such as sodium hydroxide, lithium hydroxide, or salts of guanidine or of potassium.
  • active chemical compounds such as those used for chemical transformation shaping, e.g. thioglycolic acid, cysteine, esters of thioglycolic acid, sulfites, alkaline compounds such as sodium hydroxide, lithium hydroxide, or salts of guanidine or of potassium.
  • the treatment may take place at a single location on the fibers or at a plurality of locations on each fiber.
  • the spacing between two treated locations on a fiber may be very small, e.g. less than or equal to 1 mm, or greater, e.g. greater than or equal to 1 mm, typically 1 cm ... .
  • a fiber may have one or more treated segments.
  • 2 mm segments are stressed mechanically, e.g. to give them a projecting or reentrant angle, and then irradiated, said segments being spaced apart from one another by 2 cm, for example, with the segments being treated in succession, for example, by moving the handpiece along the fiber.
  • the spacing between the treated zones on a fiber may be constant or random.
  • successive deformations in different planes. For example, successive treatments may be performed, each imparting a remanent deformation through an angle in the plane, with the planes of the various imparted deformations themselves turning about the axis of the fiber, thereby making it possible to produce a helical deformation.
  • the deformation plane may be directed by the user or by the treatment system acting automatically.
  • the treatment may be performed solely at the roots of the hair or on hair situated above the neck, which is generally too short to be treated by conventional methods.
  • the treatment system 10 may comprise a computer unit 60, e.g. comprising one or more microcontrollers or microprocessors and more generally any computer means capable of executing a program in order to manage the operation of the various components of the treatment system.
  • a computer unit 60 e.g. comprising one or more microcontrollers or microprocessors and more generally any computer means capable of executing a program in order to manage the operation of the various components of the treatment system.
  • the computer unit 60 includes or is associated with a memory 61 that serves, for example, to store operating parameters of the treatment system and that may contain a program that is executed by the computer system 60 for the purpose of operating the treatment system.
  • the memory 61 may be of any type.
  • the computer unit 60 may control the operation of a light generator 70 of an irradiation device 20, e.g. a laser, via any appropriate interface.
  • the computer unit 60 may control the nature of the pulses that are emitted and may also trigger or not trigger said pulses .
  • the computer unit 60 may also control one or more actuators 71 of the irradiation device 20, e.g. making it possible to act on the emitted light, e.g. on its direction or its degree of collimation .
  • the computer unit 60 may exchange information with a user interface 62, e.g. including a keyboard or a screen, and possibly with a network interface 64 for communication with a server, e.g. for the purpose of updating software managing the operation of the treatment system.
  • the treatment system 10 may include for example a communications port, acting over a wired or wireless connection, e.g. for communicating with a gateway providing access to the Internet, such as an Ethernet port.
  • the port may equally well be a communications port for communicating with an appliance such as a personal computer, such as a universal serial bus (USB) port or any other type of communications port.
  • USB universal serial bus
  • the computer unit 60 may also receive information from one or more sensors 50, which sensors may form part of the irradiation device 20, and/or a device for applying stress, e.g. for the purpose of informing the computer unit 60 about the movements of the treated fibers relative to a light outlet of the irradiation device .
  • the computer unit 60 may manage a certain number of functions associated with safe use of the treatment system.
  • the computer unit 60 may also control the operation of at least one actuator 55 for applying a stress to the fibers for treatment.
  • the computer unit 60 may also receive data from one or more cameras or some other optical detector, the data serving for example to inform the treatment system about the nature and/or the shape of the hair for treatment.
  • the use of the treatment system may include a step of applying stress to at least a portion of keratinous fibers disposed in a shape that is imposed by the treatment system, followed by a step of subjecting the keratinous fibers while shaped in this way to irradiation from the irradiation device, which device produces a light beam with sufficient energy to modify the internal bonds of the keratinous fibers, which can then become "frozen” in the imposed shape.
  • the device for applying a stress to the treated fiber (s) may comprise, for example, a clamp arranged to apply pressure on a mesh of keratinous fibers.
  • the treatment system may also be arranged in such a manner that the portion subjected to stress in this way is irradiated.
  • the treatment system includes a handpiece.
  • a handpiece e.g. at a hairdresser's or at home, and it enables numerous manipulations to be performed.
  • the treatment system 10 shown in Figure 6 has two jaws 102 and 103 that are suitable for being clamped one against the other to impose a shape to at least a portion of at least one keratinous fiber F.
  • the jaw 102 is stationary relative to the irradiation device 20, which device has a light outlet (not visible in Figure 6) that opens out into the jaw 102, for example .
  • the jaw 103 which may be movable relative to the jaw 102, may clamp the fiber (s) F present in the treatment zone 109 defined between the jaws 102 and 103.
  • the jaws 102 and 103 are actuated manually. Under such circumstances, the jaws 102 and 103 may be carried by two branches, e.g. branches that are hinged together (not shown) . In a variant, the jaws 102 and 103 are moved by an actuator.
  • the facing surfaces of the jaws 102 and 103 are respectively concave and convex, so as to impart curvature to the keratinous fiber (s) F.
  • the surfaces of the jaws that are to come into contact with the fiber (s) F for irradiation may present a variety of shapes, e.g. flat, rounded, twisted, or forming complementary angles.
  • the clamping between the two jaws 102 and 103 imposes a shape to each keratinous fiber, for example a crease, a rounded shape, a curve, or a helix, or it may keep them straight.
  • the jaws 102 and 103 may be made of a material that is rigid or that has elastic properties or it may be made of a composite material, e.g. a plastics material, metal, wood, leather, silicone, or rubber, or out of other materials commonly used in cosmetics.
  • the jaws may present respectively a male shape and a female shape. At least one of the two jaws may deform on bearing against the opposite jaw, where appropriate.
  • the jaws serving to impart a shape may also be two plates that are moved towards each other so as to flatten a mesh of hair.
  • At least one of the jaws may be made of a material that is transparent to light, that reflects light, or that is opaque. At least one of the jaws may form a light shield so as to prevent light from leaving the treatment zone. At least one of the jaws may be interchangeable, so as to be replaced for example by a jaw of a different shape .
  • the clamping force between the two jaws 102 and 103 may be detected by a pressure sensor so as to trigger irradiation of the portion under stress automatically once a threshold is exceeded.
  • the surface (s) of the stress- applying device that come into contact with the keratinous fiber (s) to impart a shape thereto prior to irradiation may themselves be heated, e.g. to a temperature lying in the range 80 0 C to 200 0 C.
  • the treatment system may be made in modular manner.
  • the system may comprise a base module having auxiliary modules added thereto for particular applications.
  • the auxiliary modules may be mechanical modules physically connected to the base module or they may be software modules contained in a memory. Different auxiliary modules may serve for example to impart different shapes to hair, e.g. to stress hair or to impart curves in the form of waves.
  • a complementary auxiliary module may also be added to perform treatment that is complementary to the shaping treatment.
  • a liquid dispenser and/or a heater device associated therewith may be included in such a complementary mechanical module, for example.
  • the treatment system may be used on dry hair or on wet hair.
  • the treatment system may also include an adhesive member such as a patch or an adhesive strip, for example, for the purpose of holding hair in place or of disturbing light.
  • the adhesive member may be deformed manually for the purpose of applying stress, where appropriate.
  • the stress-applying device may optionally itself allow light pulses to pass therethrough so as to reach the portion of keratinous fibers that is to be irradiated.
  • the device for applying stress on the keratinous fiber (s) for shaping may include at least one roller around which the hair is wound prior to being irradiated.
  • the roller may be fastened to the hair by means of a curler or it may be incorporated in the treatment system.
  • Figure 7 shows another example of a treatment system 10.
  • the treatment zone 109 is defined between a light outlet 110 of the irradiation device 20 and a guide surface 111 situated at a distance from the light outlet 110.
  • the guide surface 111 is defined by a finger 104 or by any other portion of the treatment system 10.
  • the guide surface 111 may be smooth or it may be provided with one or more portions in relief for guiding and/or combing hair, e.g. ribs or teeth.
  • the guide surface 111 serves to impart a predefined shape to the keratinous fibers F in contact therewith, prior to being irradiated by the irradiation device 20.
  • traction may be exerted for example on the fibers F along an arrow T shown in Figure 7, the fibers F being held by the scalp C. This traction may be exerted manually or with the help of an article secured to the hair.
  • the thickness of the treatment zone 109 defined between the light outlet 110 and the guide surface 111 lies for example in the range 0.5 mm to 5 mm, this thickness being optionally preset or adjustable.
  • the guide surface 111 may be opaque to light, e.g. being reflective, so as to reflect the light back towards the fibers for treatment.
  • the guide surface 111 may be given a variety of shapes as a function of the shape it is desired to confer in remanent to the keratinous fibers.
  • the keratinous fiber (s) may be pressed against the guide surface 111 as a result of friction where the fiber (s) come(s) into contact with the guide surface 111, because of microrelief thereon, or as a result of using a material having a high coefficient of friction and/or by rotating the guide surface about its axis.
  • the guide surface 111 may be smooth and slippery so that it does not catch hair.
  • the portion 104 of the treatment system 10 that defines the guide surface 111 may conduct light and may also define a light outlet, or it may define the only light outlet of the treatment system.
  • the portion 104 of the treatment system that defines the guide surface 111 may be solid or hollow. Making it in the form of a hollow part can be advantageous, e.g. enabling a cooling liquid or gas to flow therethrough or enabling an optical component or a sensor to be inserted therein .
  • the guide surface 111 may be defined by a rotary member such as a roller, thereby making it possible simultaneously to impart a shape to the keratinous fibers and to control the movement of the treatment system relative to the keratinous fibers, e.g. so as to enable light pulses to be sent at predefined intervals along the treated fiber (s) .
  • a stress may also be applied to the keratinous fibers prior to irradiation by expanding an elastically deformable member, e.g. an elastically deformable member that is compressed so as to reduce its volume, inserted into the treatment zone, and then released. Its expansion in the treatment zone then exerts stress on the keratinous fiber (s), and may serve, for example, to press them against a light outlet and/or against a guide surface .
  • the treatment system may include a first guide surface that is hollow and an expandable member located inside that guide surface.
  • the guide surface may be defined by at least two mutually-movable portions, e.g.
  • the light outlet may open out from one and/or the other of the guide surface and the expandable member, or it may be independent from both of them.
  • Figure 8 is a diagram showing an example of a treatment system 10 configured to apply a composition contained in a reservoir 2011 onto the keratinous fibers F.
  • application may take place for example prior to irradiation, with the composition being applied, for example, onto the fibers by means of at least one applicator pad 2012 or by any other applicator means, e.g. a block of porous material that is fed with the composition contained in the reservoir 2011.
  • the light outlet may open out for example into a treatment zone 109 of the treatment system 10 that is situated downstream from the applicator means 2012, where "downstream" is relative to the travel direction of the fibers F, so that the fibers are coated in composition prior to being irradiated.
  • the composition contained in the reservoir 2011 is intended, for example, to encourage the transmission of light to the fibers, by coating the fibers in a medium having a refractive index greater than that of air, and/or to encourage shaping of the fibers in a desired shape .
  • a composition may be applied to the hair prior to irradiation, or in a variant after irradiation, by a variety of other suitable means, e.g. by spraying.
  • the fibers may be subjected to heating and/or irradiation, e.g. for the purpose of accelerating drying of the composition or for forcing a transformation or a modification thereof.
  • the applicator means 2012 may be fed by a variety of means, e.g.
  • the composition may be applied in identified manner on the keratinous fibers for treatment, e.g. at those locations that are to be irradiated.
  • the composition applied to the fibers may also seek to complete the treatment performed by imparting color to the fibers, where the color may be applied to the fibers all along their length while the shaping treatment remains restricted to certain locations only of the fibers .
  • the orientation of the incident light on the treated fiber (s) may be imposed by the treatment system, or in a variant it may depend on the orientation of the light outlet, as determined by the user of the treatment system.
  • the orientation of the light may be controlled by the treatment unit, e.g. as a function of the manner in which the hair is shaped prior to irradiation, e.g. depending on the nature of the tool used for imparting shape to the hair prior to irradiation.
  • irradiation may be performed using a treatment system 10 comprising a hood located above a person, the hood being provided with one or more optical fibers 302 connecting a light generator to one or more light outlets, which outlets may be pointed manually or automatically towards the hair for treatment.
  • An opaque shield 201 may be placed behind the hair relative to the light outlet (s) so as to prevent lost light reaching the clothes or the skin of the user.
  • the hair of the person under the treatment system 10 may be shaped, e.g. by hairdressing.
  • the light outlet (s) may be movable relative to the hood, or the hood may be movable relative to the person being treated, so as to make it possible to irradiate a larger amount of hair that is to be set into shape.
  • the light outlets are pointed under the control of the computer unit of the treatment system as a function of image analysis, e.g. using one or more cameras, which cameras may be placed under the hood, for example.
  • hair can be irradiated at different angles, on its inner face or its outer face.
  • a control for selecting the irradiated portion and/or the direction of the irradiation may serve to adapt or to modulate the shaping.
  • irradiation directions may be input via a man/machine interface and stored in the form of settings data.
  • the light ray production characteristics of the irradiation device may also be adjusted and stored as settings data.
  • a library of stored data may serve, for example, to load parameters automatically as a function of an input command depending on the desired result.
  • the user may also input a stored instruction that determines various operating parameters.
  • a sensor of hair movement relative to the processor system may serve to trigger the application of stress and/or irradiation at determined intervals, e.g. at regular intervals.
  • the treatment system may trigger the application of stress followed by irradiation and then immediately afterwards order the stress to be released.
  • the irradiation is particularly fast, it is possible to use the appliance while moving it quickly.
  • the treatment system may include a movement sensor, e.g. including at least one roller in contact with the mesh of hair, and turning as a function of the relative movements between the mesh and the treatment system.
  • the sensor may have two rollers that are free to rotate and that are clamped onto the mesh of hair.
  • the execution of a program by the computer unit serves for example to trigger irradiation and/or to trigger a clamping action on the hair under the control of an actuator, in a manner that is synchronized and timed.
  • the treatment system may include a user interface for adjusting various operating parameters, e.g. stresses to be applied and/or irradiation to be exercised.
  • the interface comprises a display screen controlled by the computer unit.
  • the screen may display monitoring information and/or it may propose menus for adjusting parameters.
  • one menu may propose setting the physical characteristics of the light source, such as heat power, frequency, irradiation direction, and/or gaps between two treated portions. Parameters relating to shaping, such as stress pressure and/or orientation of the stress may also be adjusted, where appropriate.
  • a menu may also propose options that can be selected, such as hair type or hair color or shape desired for the hair, where these selectable options correspond for example to previously- stored settings for programs that can be executed by the computer unit of the treatment system.
  • new selectable options may be created as a function of settings adjusted by the user, thus making it possible to propose menus that are upgradable .
  • the proposed operating options or modes may be illustrated on the screen by diagrams or photos, animations or simulations, corresponding to the type of operation being proposed.
  • a camera may serve for example to acquire an image that is subsequently processed by the treatment unit in order to generate viewable data giving a preview of shaping treatment.
  • the interface may include adjustable sliders or buttons .
  • the interface may be provided on the handpiece and/or on a base station connected to the handpiece.
  • adjustment may be performed by selecting preset parameters or it may be performed by moving a slider past positions indicating for example light hair or dark hair.
  • the settings may be read from memory by the treatment unit prior to applying a stress or applying irradiation, so as to adjust a stress-applying actuator, if any, or so as to adjust the irradiation device.
  • Adjustments may be stored in the stress-applying device and may be read automatically by the irradiation device, so as to apply the adjustments, e.g. so as to produce a command.
  • Storing data contained in the stress-applying device may be useful when a single irradiation device is used with a plurality of different stress-applying devices, given the modular construction of the treatment system, for example.
  • the treatment system may include a control button for triggering irradiation, e.g. in the form of a pushbutton.
  • the irradiation device may be suitable for use in different applications, e.g. shaping and/or bleaching.
  • the user interface may serve to select another irradiation function, e.g. for the purpose of bleaching keratinous fibers or cauterizing them or even cutting them, the various functions being used independently or in combination.
  • provision may be made to perform simultaneously a step of setting the shape of the hair, and a step of bleaching the hair.
  • irradiation may transform the fiber, tending to set it straight, and also to bleach it.
  • Adjustment may be made so that the shaping is accentuated to a greater or lesser extent. For example, the efficiency, the number of shots, the duration of exposure, or other parameters may be adjusted so that after being irradiated the fiber conserves a desired shape intermediate between that which was imparted thereto immediately before irradiation and its initial shape prior to the application of stress.
  • the method of the invention may comprise a step StepOl of adjusting irradiation, e.g. by using one or more sliders.
  • a step StepO2 the user positions a mesh of hair in front of the light outlet (s) of the treatment system.
  • the user may apply stress.
  • the stress may be applied by the user, e.g. by holding the mesh of hair with a comb and tensioning the hair against a guide passage in order to take on a desired shape.
  • the stress may also be applied by clamping between jaws, or otherwise, e.g. with the help of at least one actuator controlled by the treatment system.
  • irradiation may for example be triggered manually, e.g. by the user pressing on a pushbutton.
  • the irradiation is applied in compliance with the previously-adjusted settings.
  • an end-of-irradiation light or sound warning signal may be issued in step StepO5.
  • the user may then treat another portion of the mesh of the hair and repeat steps StepO2 to StepO5.
  • a handpiece of the treatment system is moved along a mesh of hair that passes through the treatment zone.
  • the user may treat a plurality of zones along a given mesh of hair.
  • the user may also treat a different mesh of hair.
  • the treatment system may also be semiautomatic so that once the hair has been put under stress, irradiation may be triggered automatically, possibly followed by the stress being released automatically by a controlled actuator .
  • the treatment system may include an irradiation device that is servo-controlled to a pressure that is applied manually by the user, with irradiation being triggered automatically above a determined pressure or with irradiation adjusted as a function of a measured pressure, in application of a determined irradiation triggering and adjustment program.
  • the irradiation adjustment program may be selected, for example, as a function of an order input by the user, so as to come close to a given result as a function of the pressure applied by the user.
  • shape modification may be modulated by acting on the irradiation and/or on the stress, or more generally on both the applied stress and the irradiation .
  • Verification programs may also be executed in parallel to verify a set of safety parameters, e.g. stemming from sensors or from an analysis of electrical magnitude (s) while the treatment system is in operation so that in the event of there being a danger of the keratinous fibers being damaged, the settings are modified or irradiation or the application of stress is stopped.
  • a set of safety parameters e.g. stemming from sensors or from an analysis of electrical magnitude (s) while the treatment system is in operation so that in the event of there being a danger of the keratinous fibers being damaged, the settings are modified or irradiation or the application of stress is stopped.
  • An optimization program may also be executed prior to shaping and irradiation in order to verify the effectiveness of the treatment and in the event of ineffectiveness being detected, in order to modify the settings so as to be able to come closer to the desired result .
  • SteplO may be performed as in StepOl, e.g. relating to the following:
  • a step Stepll may then be performed for positioning keratinous fibers.
  • the positioning may be detected for example with the help of a movement sensor.
  • the treatment system may move on to a step Stepl2 of applying a stress to the keratinous fibers.
  • the treatment unit sends an activation signal to an actuator.
  • An associated pressure sensor may serve to determine when the stress is applied.
  • the irradiation device emits at least one light pulse, depending on the previously-adjusted setting.
  • the keratinous fibers may be released in step Stepl4.
  • An end of shaping cycle test may then be executed in a step Stepl5.
  • This end-of-cycle test comprises, for example, inspecting the position of a trigger button, which may be activated or not activated by the user, and/or analyzing the signal delivered by the movement sensor. When the movement sensor is stationary for a determined duration, then the program may assume that the mesh of hair is no longer in the appliance.
  • step Stepll the program loops back to step Stepll, for example.
  • the hair Fa formed a downwardly extending loop supporting the hair Fb that formed an upwardly extending loop.
  • Each of the hairs was held at its ends and a predefined tension was applied tending to move the hairs apart .
  • a first setup was used as a control and was subjected to no treatment.
  • a second setup was subjected to chemical treatment using conventional permanent wave liquids, e.g. under the trademark Dulcia Vital, comprising a reducing agent and a fixing agent, each applied for 5 minutes.
  • conventional permanent wave liquids e.g. under the trademark Dulcia Vital
  • Four other setups were subjected to laser irradiation .
  • the laser used came from the supplier Amplitude System, under the trademark S-Pulse, delivering pulses having a duration of about 500 femtoseconds (fs) and a wavelength of 1030 nm.
  • the maximum energy per shot was about 1 mJ and the shot frequency was about 10 kHz.
  • the laser was fitted with a frequency doubler so that the light reaching the hair had a wavelength of 515 nm.
  • Movable mirrors were disposed between the hairs and the laser outlet, thereby enabling the laser beam to be positioned.
  • Collimator optics were used for enlarging the beam to a diameter of about 300 ⁇ m.
  • the energy per shot was estimated at 0.5 mJ and the energy per square millimeter was 5 mJ.
  • the peak power was about 10 GW for the beam, and given the concentration of the beam power was delivered to the fiber at a density of 1 GW/mm 2 .
  • the hairs were released immediately after the laser treatment.
  • the hairs were separated after treatment and then washed in water with shampoo for ten repeated washing and rinsing cycles, including drying over a period of several minutes, each hair being held at one end.
  • a very high degree of remanent deformation can be achieved in less than one second and that it is possible to modulate the angle of the remanent deformation by varying the treatment conditions.
  • the shape given to a keratinous fiber can be varied by acting solely on a tiny portion thereof, e.g. a portion having a length of less than 1 mm, e.g. having a length of 300 ⁇ m.
  • Other treatments may be executed simultaneously with the treatment seeking to confer remanent deformation, e.g. chemical coloring, chemical bleaching, complementary chemical shaping treatments, straightening, hair care, hair washing, and/or care of the scalp.
  • At least one other treatment as defined above may also be performed before or after the method of the invention.
  • the irradiation to which the keratinous fibers are subjected may be completed by ultrasound treatment, by infrared (IR) or microwave heating, or by other pulsed or non-pulsed light irradiation, by decreasing or increasing surface tension, or indeed by surface abrasion.
  • IR infrared
  • microwave heating or by other pulsed or non-pulsed light irradiation, by decreasing or increasing surface tension, or indeed by surface abrasion.
  • the shaping prior to the light irradiation and/or the light irradiation may be performed while hot, e.g. at a temperature lying in the range 80 0 C to 220 0 C.
  • the treatment system may also deliver at least one gas or spray on the keratinous fiber (s) while implementing the method of the invention, for example it may deliver steam, cold air, air with determined humidity, water, or at least one solvent or other fluid.
  • the treatment system may be arranged to bleach fibers over a certain length, e.g. over their entire length, and to induce remanent deformation over a shorter distance .
  • the treatment other than that seeking to confer remanent deformation may take place at the same location as the remanent deformation treatment, or at some other location .
  • the other treatment may seek, for example, to color the fibers or to bleach the fibers over their entire length, while the treatment of the invention serves to confer remanent deformation to certain localized positions only.

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Abstract

La présente invention concerne un procédé de traitement de fibres kératiniques, le procédé comprenant les étapes qui consistent en: a) la mise en forme d'au moins une partie d'au moins une fibre kératinique (F); et b) l'exposition de ladite partie à au moins une impulsion lumineuse (R) servant à procurer une déformation rémanente à la fibre, en particulier une forme rémanente correspondant à la forme dans laquelle la fibre a été configurée.
PCT/IB2009/055646 2008-12-10 2009-12-10 Procédé de traitement d'une fibre kératinique avec la lumière pour obtenir la rémanence de sa forme préalablement à l'irradiation WO2010067323A1 (fr)

Applications Claiming Priority (2)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
FR0858442A FR2939284B1 (fr) 2008-12-10 2008-12-10 Procede de traitement optique d'une fibre keratinique procurant une remanence de la forme precedent l'irradiation
FR0858442 2008-12-10

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WO2010067323A1 true WO2010067323A1 (fr) 2010-06-17

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FR (1) FR2939284B1 (fr)
WO (1) WO2010067323A1 (fr)

Cited By (19)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
WO2015094757A1 (fr) * 2013-12-19 2015-06-25 The Procter & Gamble Company Façonnage de fibres de kératine par utilisation d'un sucre
WO2015094756A1 (fr) * 2013-12-19 2015-06-25 The Procter & Gamble Company Façonnage de fibres de kératine en utilisant une amine ou une diamine
WO2015094759A1 (fr) * 2013-12-19 2015-06-25 The Procter & Gamble Company Façonnage de fibres de kératine utilisant un principe actif comprenant au moins deux groupes fonctionnels choisis entre -c(oh)- et -c(=o)oh
WO2016064675A1 (fr) * 2014-10-20 2016-04-28 Lexington International, Llc Dispositif électroluminescent mains libres
USD802211S1 (en) 2016-04-08 2017-11-07 Lexington International, Llc Stand for light emitting hands free device
USD804047S1 (en) 2016-04-08 2017-11-28 Lexington International, Llc Curved light emitting hands free device
US9877559B2 (en) 2013-12-19 2018-01-30 The Procter & Gamble Comany Methods for shaping fibrous material and treatment compositions therefor
US9918921B2 (en) 2013-12-19 2018-03-20 The Procter & Gamble Company Methods for shaping fibrous material and treatment compositions therefor
EP3453282A1 (fr) * 2017-09-10 2019-03-13 Koninklijke Philips N.V. Dispositif de coiffure
WO2019048357A1 (fr) * 2017-09-10 2019-03-14 Koninklijke Philips N.V. Dispositif de coiffage
US10434051B2 (en) 2014-12-19 2019-10-08 The Procter And Gamble Company Shaping keratin fibers using arabinose and ethylene carbonate
US10568826B2 (en) 2014-12-19 2020-02-25 The Procter And Gamble Company Shaping keratin fibres using a pretreatment and a protein crosslinking composition
CN112020315A (zh) * 2018-04-25 2020-12-01 皇家飞利浦有限公司 毛发造型设备
US10912726B2 (en) 2013-12-19 2021-02-09 The Procter And Gamble Company Shaping keratin fibres using a reducing composition and a fixing composition
US10945931B2 (en) 2015-06-18 2021-03-16 The Procter And Gamble Company Shaping keratin fibres using dialdehyde compounds
US11096879B2 (en) 2013-12-19 2021-08-24 The Procter And Gamble Plaza Shaping keratin fibres using an active agent comprising a functional group selected from the group consisting of: -C(=O)-, -C(=O)-H, and -C(=O)-O-
US11103434B2 (en) 2013-12-19 2021-08-31 The Procter And Gamble Company Shaping keratin fibres using carbonate ester
US11110046B2 (en) 2013-12-19 2021-09-07 The Procter And Gamble Company Shaping keratin fibres using 2-hydroxypropane-1,2,3-tricarboxylic acid and/or 1,2,3,4-butanetetracarboxylic acid
US11129784B2 (en) 2013-12-19 2021-09-28 The Procter And Gamble Company Shaping keratin fibres using oxoethanoic acid and/or derivatives thereof

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WO2019199996A1 (fr) * 2018-04-10 2019-10-17 Coty Inc. Outil de durcissement d'ongles à led et procédés associés
FR3085854B1 (fr) * 2018-09-13 2021-07-30 Irisiome Systeme de laser impulsionnel destine aux traitements dermatologiques

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EP0273538A2 (fr) * 1986-12-26 1988-07-06 Takimae Toyosaku Fer à défriser les cheveux
US4792341A (en) 1986-06-19 1988-12-20 Clairol Incorporated Hair photobleaching
US5246019A (en) 1989-11-01 1993-09-21 Wella Aktiengesellschaft Process for bleaching hair under the influence of light
EP0685220A1 (fr) 1994-05-04 1995-12-06 L'oreal, S.A. Procédé de décoloration des cheveux par irradiation avec un laser, et dispositif
EP0685180A1 (fr) 1994-05-04 1995-12-06 L'oreal Procédé de décoloration des cheveux par irradiation laser avec refroidissement, et dispositif pour sa mise en oeuvre
JPH10262725A (ja) * 1997-03-26 1998-10-06 Matsushita Electric Works Ltd ヘアセット装置
US5875789A (en) 1995-05-12 1999-03-02 Eroica Corporation Ultra-sonic perming device and method
JP2004267297A (ja) * 2003-03-05 2004-09-30 Shinsaku Sakamoto 光による頭髪のカール形成具及び頭髪のカール形成方法。
WO2005104897A1 (fr) * 2004-05-04 2005-11-10 L'oreal Procede et systeme pour la decoloration optique de fibres keratiniques
WO2007134224A2 (fr) 2006-05-11 2007-11-22 Living Proof, Inc. Dispositifs et procédés à utiliser dans le cadre de traitements de la peau et des cheveux

Patent Citations (11)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
US4792341A (en) 1986-06-19 1988-12-20 Clairol Incorporated Hair photobleaching
EP0273538A2 (fr) * 1986-12-26 1988-07-06 Takimae Toyosaku Fer à défriser les cheveux
US5303722A (en) 1989-01-11 1994-04-19 Wella Aktiengesellschaft Apparatus for bleaching hair under the influence of light
US5246019A (en) 1989-11-01 1993-09-21 Wella Aktiengesellschaft Process for bleaching hair under the influence of light
EP0685220A1 (fr) 1994-05-04 1995-12-06 L'oreal, S.A. Procédé de décoloration des cheveux par irradiation avec un laser, et dispositif
EP0685180A1 (fr) 1994-05-04 1995-12-06 L'oreal Procédé de décoloration des cheveux par irradiation laser avec refroidissement, et dispositif pour sa mise en oeuvre
US5875789A (en) 1995-05-12 1999-03-02 Eroica Corporation Ultra-sonic perming device and method
JPH10262725A (ja) * 1997-03-26 1998-10-06 Matsushita Electric Works Ltd ヘアセット装置
JP2004267297A (ja) * 2003-03-05 2004-09-30 Shinsaku Sakamoto 光による頭髪のカール形成具及び頭髪のカール形成方法。
WO2005104897A1 (fr) * 2004-05-04 2005-11-10 L'oreal Procede et systeme pour la decoloration optique de fibres keratiniques
WO2007134224A2 (fr) 2006-05-11 2007-11-22 Living Proof, Inc. Dispositifs et procédés à utiliser dans le cadre de traitements de la peau et des cheveux

Cited By (27)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
US9918921B2 (en) 2013-12-19 2018-03-20 The Procter & Gamble Company Methods for shaping fibrous material and treatment compositions therefor
US9877559B2 (en) 2013-12-19 2018-01-30 The Procter & Gamble Comany Methods for shaping fibrous material and treatment compositions therefor
US11096879B2 (en) 2013-12-19 2021-08-24 The Procter And Gamble Plaza Shaping keratin fibres using an active agent comprising a functional group selected from the group consisting of: -C(=O)-, -C(=O)-H, and -C(=O)-O-
US9956155B2 (en) 2013-12-19 2018-05-01 The Procter & Gamble Company Shaping keratin fibres using an amine or a diamine
JP2016540797A (ja) * 2013-12-19 2016-12-28 ザ プロクター アンド ギャンブル カンパニー −ｃ（ｏｈ）−及び−ｃ（＝ｏ）ｏｈから選択される少なくとも２個の官能基を含む活性剤を使用した、ケラチン繊維の成形
WO2015094756A1 (fr) * 2013-12-19 2015-06-25 The Procter & Gamble Company Façonnage de fibres de kératine en utilisant une amine ou une diamine
WO2015094757A1 (fr) * 2013-12-19 2015-06-25 The Procter & Gamble Company Façonnage de fibres de kératine par utilisation d'un sucre
US10729630B2 (en) 2013-12-19 2020-08-04 The Procter & Gamble Company Shaping keratin fibres using an active agent comprising at least two functional groups selected from: —C(OH)- and —C(=O)OH
WO2015094759A1 (fr) * 2013-12-19 2015-06-25 The Procter & Gamble Company Façonnage de fibres de kératine utilisant un principe actif comprenant au moins deux groupes fonctionnels choisis entre -c(oh)- et -c(=o)oh
US11103434B2 (en) 2013-12-19 2021-08-31 The Procter And Gamble Company Shaping keratin fibres using carbonate ester
US11129784B2 (en) 2013-12-19 2021-09-28 The Procter And Gamble Company Shaping keratin fibres using oxoethanoic acid and/or derivatives thereof
US11154480B2 (en) 2013-12-19 2021-10-26 The Procter And Gamble Company Shaping keratin fibres using a sugar
US10912726B2 (en) 2013-12-19 2021-02-09 The Procter And Gamble Company Shaping keratin fibres using a reducing composition and a fixing composition
US11110046B2 (en) 2013-12-19 2021-09-07 The Procter And Gamble Company Shaping keratin fibres using 2-hydroxypropane-1,2,3-tricarboxylic acid and/or 1,2,3,4-butanetetracarboxylic acid
US11383097B2 (en) 2014-10-20 2022-07-12 Lexington International, Llc Light emitting hands free device
WO2016064675A1 (fr) * 2014-10-20 2016-04-28 Lexington International, Llc Dispositif électroluminescent mains libres
US10568826B2 (en) 2014-12-19 2020-02-25 The Procter And Gamble Company Shaping keratin fibres using a pretreatment and a protein crosslinking composition
US10434051B2 (en) 2014-12-19 2019-10-08 The Procter And Gamble Company Shaping keratin fibers using arabinose and ethylene carbonate
US10945931B2 (en) 2015-06-18 2021-03-16 The Procter And Gamble Company Shaping keratin fibres using dialdehyde compounds
USD804047S1 (en) 2016-04-08 2017-11-28 Lexington International, Llc Curved light emitting hands free device
USD802211S1 (en) 2016-04-08 2017-11-07 Lexington International, Llc Stand for light emitting hands free device
EP3681334B1 (fr) * 2017-09-10 2021-04-14 Koninklijke Philips N.V. Dispositif de coiffure
WO2019048357A1 (fr) * 2017-09-10 2019-03-14 Koninklijke Philips N.V. Dispositif de coiffage
EP3453282A1 (fr) * 2017-09-10 2019-03-13 Koninklijke Philips N.V. Dispositif de coiffure
US20210235835A1 (en) * 2018-04-25 2021-08-05 Koninklijke Philips N.V. Hair styling device
CN112020315A (zh) * 2018-04-25 2020-12-01 皇家飞利浦有限公司 毛发造型设备
US11937679B2 (en) * 2018-04-25 2024-03-26 Koninklijke Philips N.V. Hair styling device

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FR2939284A1 (fr) 2010-06-11
FR2939284B1 (fr) 2012-12-07

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