WO2010049390A1

WO2010049390A1 - Cosmetic and dermatological compositions for the reduction of facial expression wrinkles

Info

Publication number: WO2010049390A1
Application number: PCT/EP2009/064082
Authority: WO
Inventors: Soraya Heinen; Marianne Waldmann-Laue; Olaf HOLTKÖTTER
Original assignee: Henkel Ag & Co. Kgaa
Priority date: 2008-10-27
Filing date: 2009-10-26
Publication date: 2010-05-06
Also published as: DE102008053271A1

Abstract

The invention relates to compositions which are suitable for substantially reducing wrinkles in three dimensions. Said compositions contain at least one DNA repair enzyme and at least one oligopeptide which can have an N-C2-C24 acyl group and/or can be esterified, and additionally, based on the respective weight of the composition, 0.001 to 1% by weight of at least one hydroxystilbene oligomer, the alkyl ethers thereof and/or the esters thereof, 0.001 to 2% by weight of at least one apple core extract, and at least one oil-soluble UV filter which comprises at least one alkyl-substituted and/or alkxoy-substituted dibenzyolmethane derivative, in a cosmetically acceptable carrier.

Description

Cosmetic and dermatological compositions for reducing expression lines

The invention relates to topical cosmetic or dermatological compositions for wrinkle reduction.

Means and treatment methods for treating mature or intrinsically or extrinsically aged or photodamaged skin, especially for anti-wrinkle treatment, are a significant cosmetic challenge.

Any change in our facial expression through the muscles activates micro-contractions of the skin. As a result of their constant repetition, clearer facial expressions become more and more apparent over time. While these expression lines may be desirable partly because they give a sympathetic appearance (laughing lines), they present in the form of forehead wrinkles, Zwischenbrauenfalte (wrinkles), so-called "crow's feet" and upper lip wrinkles, especially in the second half of life a cosmetic challenge. Medical Mimic wrinkles can be counteracted by weakening or even paralyzing the activity of facial expressions for a maximum period of one year, for which treatment with botulinum toxin has been established, but with the disadvantage of high prices, medical treatment and the associated risks as well possible hypersensitivity that may affect the naturalness of the facial expression.

It is an object of the present invention to provide preparations for the treatment and significant reduction of facial wrinkles, which have so far outperformed commercially available products.

Cosmetic or dermatological topical compositions which allow improved treatment of wrinkles, particularly wrinkles, due to photoinduced skin aging are disclosed in European Patent Application EP 1 634 576 A1 and contain at least one DNA in a suitable cosmetic or dermatological carrier Repair enzyme and at least one oligopeptide which may have at least one NC ₂ -C ₂₄ acyl radical and / or be esterified. In a night cream exemplarily there also apple kernel extract is contained. It has now been found that the known compositions containing at least one DNA repair enzyme and at least one oligopeptide having at least one NC ₂ -C ₂₄ acyl radical and / or esterified, also for relaxation of the muscles and thus the clearer Reduction of facial wrinkles are suitable when incorporating other ingredients in the compositions. The present invention is in a first embodiment, a cosmetic or dermatological topical composition containing at least one DNA repair enzyme and at least one oligopeptide, which have at least one NC ₂ -C ₂₄ acyl radical and / or esterified, which additionally in each case based on the weight of the composition - in a cosmetically acceptable carrier: a) 0.001 to 1 wt .-% of at least one hydroxystilbene oligomer, its or their alkyl ethers and / or its or their esters, b) 0.001 to 2 wt. c) at least one oil-soluble UV filter comprising at least one alkyl- and / or alkoxy-substituted dibenzoylmethane derivative.

Preferred compositions according to the invention are characterized in that the DNA repair enzyme is selected from photolyase and T 4 endonuclease V and mixtures of these enzymes.

The DNA repair enzymes can be encapsulated both in liposomes and freely, that is to say in their encapsulated form. Liposome encapsulation can preferably be carried out with phospholipids, particularly preferably with lecithin. Particularly preferred according to the invention is the use of at least one liposome-encapsulated DNA repair enzyme. Liposome-encapsulated photolyase is commercially available for. B. under the product name Photosomes ™ (INCI name: Aqua, lecithin, plankton extract) liposome-encapsulated T4N5 z. B. under the name Ultrasomes ™ (INCI name: Aqua, lecithin, Micrococcus Lysate) from AGI Dermatics, USA, available. Since a longer period of storage of both the commercial product and the compositions of the invention between the encapsulated aqueous phase containing the enzyme and the non-encapsulated outer aqueous phase equilibrium, a part of the DNA repair enzymes is present without encapsulation.

In the compositions according to the invention, the commercial products Photosomes ™ or Ultrasomes ™ are preferred in amounts of 0.1-10% by weight, more preferably 0.5-5.0% by weight and most preferably 1.0-0.4% by weight .-%, based on the total agent included.

Preferred compositions according to the invention are characterized in that at least one DNA repair enzyme is present in total amounts of 0.00001-1% by weight, preferably 0.0001-0.1% by weight, particularly preferably 0.001-0.01-0.05 Wt .-% and most preferably 0.002 - 0.005 wt .-%, is contained.

Very particularly preferred compositions according to the invention are characterized in that they contain 0.00001-1% by weight, preferably 0.0001-0.1% by weight, more preferably 0.001-0.05% by weight, based on the weight of the composition % and most preferably 0.002 to 0.005% by weight of at least one DNA repair enzyme from the group photolyase and T4 endonuclease V and mixtures of these enzymes. Among the oligopeptides contained in the compositions according to the invention, which may also be referred to as amino acid oligomers, according to the invention are peptides having 2-30, preferably 2-15, amino acids.

The amino acids and / or the NC ₂ -C ₂₄ -acylamino acids are selected according to the invention from alanine, arginine, asparagine, aspartic acid, canavanine, citrulline, cysteine, cystine, dipalmitoylhydroxyproline, desmosine, glutamine, glutamic acid, glycine, histidine, homophenylalanine, hydroxylysine, hydroxyproline , Isodesmosin, isoleucine, leucine, lysine, methionine, methylnorleucine, ornithine, phenylalanine, proline, pyroglutamic acid, sarcosine, serine, taurine, threonine, thyroxine, tryptophan, tyrosine, VaNn, N-acetyl-L-cysteine, zinc pyroglutamate, sodium octanoylglutamate , Sodium decanoylglutamate, sodium lauroylglutamate, sodium myristoylglutamate, sodium cetoylglutamate and sodium stearoylglutamate. Particularly preferred are lysine, serine, zinc and sodium pyroglutamate and sodium lauroylglutamate. The C ₂ -C ₂₄ acyl radical with which said amino acids on the amino group can be derivatized is selected from an acetyl, propanoyl, butanoyl, pentanoyl, hexanoyl, heptanoyl, octanoyl, nonanoyl, decanoyl , Undecanoyl, lauroyl, tridecanoyl, myristoyl, pentadecanoyl, cetoyl, palmitoyl, stearoyl, elaidoyl, arachidoyl or behenoyl radicals. Mixtures of C ₈ -C ₁₈ acyl radicals are also used as cocoyl radicals and are also preferred substituents.

With the abovementioned C ₂ -C ₂₄ -acyl radicals, the amino acids which carry an OH group can also be esterified at this OH group. A preferred example of this according to the invention is hydroxyproline, which is N-acylated and esterified with two, preferably linear, C ₂ -C ₂₂ fatty acid residues, more preferably dipalmitoylhydroxyproline, which is e.g. B. Sepilift DPHP available from the company Seppic.

The physiologically acceptable salts of the preferred oligopeptides according to the invention, which contain acid groups and can form salts, are selected from the ammonium, alkali metal, magnesium, calcium, aluminum, zinc and manganese salts. Preferred are the sodium, potassium, magnesium, aluminum, zinc and manganese salts. The oligomers of the amino acids and / or the NC ₂ -C ₂₄ -acylamino acids are preferably selected from di-, tri-, tetra-, penta-, hexa- or pentadecapeptides which may be N-acylated and / or esterified. Many of these amino acid oligomers or oligopeptides stimulate the collagen synthesis or are able to recruit immune system cells, such as mast cells and macrophages, which then, via the release of growth factors repair processes in the tissue, eg. B. Collagen synthesis, induce, or are able to bind to the sequence Arg-Phe-Lys in thrombospondin I (TSP-1) and thus active TGF-ß (tissue growth factoή, the synthesis of collagen in dermal fibroblasts Such amino acid oligomers or oligopeptides can be used as anti-aging agents.

Very particularly preferred compositions according to the invention are characterized in that they contain 0.00001-1% by weight, preferably 0.0001-0.1% by weight, more preferably 0.001-0.05% by weight, based on the weight of the composition .-% and extremely preferably 0.002 to 0.005 wt .-% of at least one di-, tri-, tetra-, penta- or hexapeptide which may be acylated and / or esterified with at least one NC ₂ -C ₂₄ acyl radical, and mixtures of these substances ,

According to preferred, optionally N-acylated and / or esterified dipeptides are acetyl-citrullyl-arginine (eg Exsy-algins of exsymol with the INCI name Acetyl Citrull Amido Arginine), Tyr-Arg (dipeptide-1), Val- Trp (dipeptide-2), Asn-Phe, Asp-Phe, N-palmitoyl-.beta.-Ala-His, N-acetyl-Tyr-Arg-hexyldecylester (eg, calmosensins from Sederma), carnosine (.beta. His) and N-palmitoyl-Pro-Arg. According to preferred, optionally N-acylated and / or esterified tripeptides are Gly-His-Lys, z. B. under the name "Omega-CH Aktιvator" by the company GfN or in acylated form (N-palmitoyl-Gly-His-Lys) under the name Biopeptide CL is available from Sederma, but (in acylated form) also a component The tri-peptide Gly-His-Lys can also be used as a copper salt (Cu ²⁺ ) and as such can be obtained from ProCyte Corporation, and analogs of Gly-His-Lys can be used According to the invention, Ala, Leu and Ne are suitable for the substitution of Gly.The inventively preferred amino acids which can replace His or Lys include a side chain with a nitrogen atom which is predominantly charged at pH 6, e.g. Pro, Lys, Arg, His, desmosine and isodesmosine, more preferably Lys is replaced by Arg, Orn or citrulline Another preferred tripeptide according to the invention is G ly-His-Arg (INCI name: tripeptide-3) and its derivative N-myristoyl-Gly-His-Arg, which is available, for example, as Collasyn 314-GR from Therapeutic Peptide Inc.; Further preferred tripeptides according to the invention are selected from Lys-Val-Lys, Lys-Val-Dab (Dab = diaminobutyric acid), Lys-Phe-Lys, Lys-Ile-Lys, Dab-Val-Lys, Lys-Val-Orn, Lys- Val-Dap (Dap = diaminopropionic acid), Dap-Val-Lys, palmitoyl-Lys-Val-Lys, e.g. Available from Pentapharm under the name SYNO-COLL, Lys-Pro-Val, Tyr-Tyr-Val, Tyr-Val-Tyr, Val-Tyr-Val (Tripeptide-2), Tripeptide-4 (e.g. ATPeptide, available via IMPAG), His-Ala-Orn N-elaidoyl-Lys-Phe-Lys and N-acetyl-Arg-Lys-Arg-NH2.

According to preferred, optionally N-acylated and / or esterified tetrapeptides are selected from the Rigin and Rigin-based tetrapeptides and ALAMCAT tetrapeptides. Rigin has the sequence Gly-Gln-Pro-Arg. Rigin-based tetrapeptides include the Rigin analogs and Rigin derivatives, in particular the invention particularly preferred N-Palmιtoyl-Gly-Gln-Pro-Arg, the z. B. is available under the name Eyeliss of Sederma, but also forms part of the product Matrixyl 3000 of Sederma. The Rigin analogs include those in which the four amino acids are rearranged and / or in which a maximum of two amino acids are substituted to Rigin, z. For example, the sequence AIa-Gln-Thr-Arg. Preferably, at least one of the amino acids of the sequence has a Pro or Arg, and more preferably, the Tetrapeptide includes both Pro and Arg, and their order and position may vary. The substituting amino acids can be selected from any amino acid defined below. Especially preferred Rigin-based tetrapetides include: Xaa-Xbb-Arg-Xcc, Xaa-Xbb-Xcc-Pro, Xaa-Xbb-Pro-Arg, Xaa-Xbb-Pro-Xcc, Xaa-Xbb-Xcc-Arg, where Xaa, Xbb and Xcc may be the same or different amino acids and wherein Xaa is selected from Gly and the amino acids which may substitute Gly, Xbb is selected from GIn and the amino acids which may substitute for GIn, Xcc is selected from Pro or Arg and the amino acids, which can substitute Pro and Arg.

The preferred amino acids that can replace GIy include an aliphatic side chain, e.g. B. β-Ala, Ala, VaI, Leu, Pro, Sarcosine (Sar) and Isoleucine (Ne). The preferred amino acids which can replace GIn include a side chain having an amino group predominantly uncharged at neutral pH (pH 6-7), e.g. Asn, Lys, Orn, 5-hydroxyproline, citrulline and canavanine.

The preferred amino acids which can replace Arg include a side chain having a nitrogen atom predominantly charged at pH 6, e.g. Pro, Lys, His, Desmosine and Isodesmosin.

As Rigin analogs according to the invention Gly-Gln-Arg-Pro and Val-Val-Arg-Pro are preferred. ALAMCAT tetrapeptides are tetrapeptides which contain at least one amino acid with an aliphatic side chain, eg. B. β-Ala, Ala, VaI, Leu, Pro, Sarcosine (Sar) and Isoleucine (Ne). Furthermore, ALAMCAT tetrapeptides include at least one amino acid having a side chain with an amino group predominantly uncharged at neutral pH (pH 6-7), e.g. GIn, Asn, Lys, Orn, 5-hydroxyproline, citrulline and canavanine. Furthermore, ALAMCAT tetrapeptides include at least one amino acid having a side chain with a nitrogen atom predominantly charged at pH 6, e.g. Arg, Pro, Lys, His, Desmosin and Isodesmosin. As the fourth amino acid, ALAMCAT tetrapeptides may contain any amino acid; however, preferably the fourth amino acid is also selected from the three abovementioned groups.

Optionally N-acylated and / or esterified pentapeptides which are preferred according to the invention are selected from Lys-Thr-Thr-Lys-Ser and its N-acylated derivatives, particularly preferably N-palmitoyl-Lys-Thr-Thr-Lys-Ser, which can be obtained under the Matrixyl is available from Sederma, further N-palmitoyl-Tyr-Gly-Gly-Phe-Met, Val-Val-Arg-Pro-Pro, N-palmitoyl-Tyr-Gly-Gly-Phe-Leu, Gly- Pro-Phe-Pro-Leu and N-Benzyloxycarbonyl-Gly-Pro-Phe-Pro-Leu (the latter two are serine proteinase inhibitors for the inhibition of desquamation). Preferred, if appropriate, N-acylated and / or esterified hexapeptides according to the invention are Val-Gly-Val-Ala-Pro-Gly and its N-acylated derivatives, particularly preferably N-palmitoyl-Val-Gly-Val-Ala-Pro-Gly available under the name Biopeptide EL from the company Sederma, furthermore Ala-Asp-Leu-Lys-Pro-Thr (hexapeptide-3, for example peptides 02 from Vincience), acetyl-hexapeptide-3 (Argireline from Lipotec), Hexapeptide-4 (e.g., Collasyn 6KS from Therapeutic Peptide Inc. (TPI)), hexapeptyl-5 (e.g., Collasyn 6VY from TPI), myristoyl hexapeptide-5 (e.g., Collasyn 614VY from TPI), myristoyl Hexapeptide-6 (eg Collasyn 614VG from TPI), Ala-Arg-His-methylnorleucine homophenylalanine-Trp (hexapeptide-7), hexapeptide-8 (eg Collasyn 6KS from TPI), myristoyl hexapeptide-8 (eg Collasyn Lipo-6KS from TPI), hexapeptide-9 (eg Collaxyl from Vincience) and hexapeptide-10 (eg Collaxyl from Vincience or Seriseline from Lipotec) , Hexapeptide-11 (eg, Peptamide-6 from Arch Personal Care), Ala-Arg-His-Leu-Phe-Trp (hexapeptide-1), acetyl hexapeptide-1 (e.g., modulene from Vincience), acetyl Glutamyl hexapeptyl-1 (e.g., SNAP-7 from Centerchem), hexapeptide-2 (e.g., melanostatine-DM from Vincience), and Val-Val-Arg-Pro-Pro-Pro. An inventively preferred Pentadecapep- tid is z. As the raw material Vinci 01 by Vincience (Pentadecapeptide-1). Another preferred amino acid oligomer is the peptide derivative L-glutamylaminoethyl-indole (glistine exsymol).

It may be particularly preferred according to the invention to use combinations of at least two oligopeptides. Particularly preferred according to the invention are combinations of N-palmitoyl-Gly-His-Lys and N-palmitoyl-Gly-Gln-Pro-Arg, as obtainable, for example, in the raw material Matrixyl 3000 from Sederma.

Compositions preferred according to the invention are characterized in that they comprise at least one oligopeptide which may contain at least one NC ₂ -C ₂₄ -acyl residue and / or be esterified and which is selected from Tyr-Arg and its N-acylated derivatives, in particular N-acylated derivatives. Acetyl-Tyr-Arg-hexyldecylester, Gly-His-Lys and its N-acylated derivatives, in particular N-palmitoyl-Gly-His-Lys, Gly-His-Arg, and its N-acylated derivatives, especially N-myristoyl-Gly -His-Arg, Lys-Val-Lys and its N-acylated derivatives, in particular Palmitoyl-Lys-Val-Lys, Val-Tyr-Val, Gly-Gln-Pro-Arg (Rigin), Rigin analogs and Rigin derivatives , in particular N-palmitoyl-Gly-Gln-Pro-Arg, Lys-Thr-Thr-Lys-Ser and its N-acylated derivatives, in particular N-palmitoyl-Lys-Thr-Thr-Lys-Ser, Val-Gly-Val -Ala-Pro-Gly and its N-acylated derivatives, in particular N-palmitoyl-Val-Gly-Val-Ala-Pro-Gly, acetyl-hexapeptide-3, hexapeptide-4, hexapeptide-5, myristoyl hexapeptide-5, myristoyl Hexap eptide-6, hexapeptide-8, hexapeptide-9, hexapeptide-10, L-glutamylaminoethyl-indole, as well as combinations of these substances, in particular combinations of N-palmitoyl-Gly-His-Lys and N-palmitoyl-Gly-Gln-Pro Arg. Particularly preferred compositions according to the invention are characterized in that at least one oligopeptide is used in total amounts of 0.000001-1% by weight, preferably 0.00001-0.1% by weight, particularly preferably 0.0001-0.001-0.01. 0.05% by weight, and most preferably 0.002-0.005% by weight

Very particularly preferred compositions according to the invention are characterized in that they contain 0.00001-1% by weight, preferably 0.0001-0.1% by weight, more preferably 0.001-0.05% by weight, based on the weight of the composition % and most preferably 0.002 to 0.005 wt .-% of at least one oligopeptide from the group Tyr-Arg and its N-acylated derivatives, in particular N-acetyl-Tyr-Arg-hexyl decyl ester, Gly-His-Lys and its N -acylated derivatives, in particular N-palmitoyl-Gly-His-Lys, Gly-His-Arg, and its N-acylated derivatives, in particular N-myristoyl-Gly-His-Arg, Lys-Val-Lys and its N-acylated derivatives , in particular Palmitoyl-Lys-Val-Lys, Val-Tyr VaI, Gly-Gln-Pro-Arg (Rigin), Rigin analogs and Rigin derivatives, especially N-palmitoyl-Gly-Gln-Pro-Arg, Lys-Thr-Thr-Lys-Ser and its N-acylated derivatives, in particular N-palmitoyl-Lys-Thr-Thr-Lys-Ser, Val-Gly-Val-Ala-Pro-Gly and its N-acylated derivatives, in particular N-palmitoyl-Val-Gly-Val-Ala-Pro-Gly, Acetyl-hexapeptide-3, hexapeptide-4, hexapeptide-5, myristoyl hexapeptide-5, myristoyl hexapeptide-6, hexapeptide-8, hexapep-tide-9, hexapeptide-10, L-glutamylaminoethyl-indole, and combinations of these substances, in particular Combinations of N-palmitoyl-Gly-His-Lys and N-palmitoyl-Gly-Gln-Pro-Arg.

The compositions according to the invention additionally contain, based on their weight, from 0.001 to 1% by weight of at least one hydroxystilbene oligomer, its or their alkyl ethers and / or their esters or their esters.

Hydroxystilbenes are an extensive group of natural products, mostly phytoalexins; many of them are derived from conifers and are often present as glycosides and / or methyl ethers. But they can also be produced synthetically. Also with acids, for example with phosphoric acid, esterified hydroxystilbenes are suitable for the compositions according to the invention. Most hydroxystilbenes are in the (E) -form, but some also occur in the (Z) -form. Among the most important representatives is Pinosylvin (3,5-stilbendiol). In the (E) form, pinosylvin forms needles that are insoluble in water, soluble in acetone. (E) - u. (Z) isomers occur in addition to the corresponding mono- and dimethyl ethers in pine, pine and other softwoods. Resveratrol (3,4 ', 5-stilbentriol, 3,4', 5-trihydroxystilbene, structure see general formula RESV-I, where R ¹ = OH and R ² = H) is a phytoalexin from the roots of Veratrum grandiflorum and the Bark of Pinus sibirica and comes among others in Eucalyptus-, Polygonum- u. Nothofagus species, especially in the rhizome of Polygonum cuspidatum. Piceatannol (3,3 ', 4,5-stilbentetrol, 3,3', 4,5'-tetrahydroxystilbene, astringenin) forms needles in the (E) -form. It was isolated from spruce trees.

The attack of a hydroxyl group on the ethylenic double bond of another hydroxystilbene molecule to form a Dihydrofuranrings can oligomerize hydroxystilbene. Known examples of the oligomers of hydroxystilbenes are the dimers of resveratrol, in particular the (E) -resveratrol, the so-called viniferins, in particular the trans-epsilon-viniferin (see formula RESV-II).

trans-epsilon-viniferin (RESV-II)

Known trimers and tetramers of resveratrol are Vitisin E (see formula RESV-III) and Vitisin D (see formula RESV-IV).

W "J E

Vitisin E (RESV-I

Whistle D

Vitisin D (RESV-IV)

The molecular formula of trans-epsilon-viniferine is C ₂₈ H ₂₂ θ ₆ (CAS: 62218-08-0). One finds this substance in free form or as glycoside in variable amounts in various plant species, including Vitaceae, Umbelhferae, Myrtaceae, Dipterocarpaceae, Cyperaceae, Gnetaceae, legumes, Gramineae, Sericeae, Haemodoraceae, Musaceae, Polygonaceae, Pinaceae, Cupressaceae, Cesalpiniaceae, Poaceae, et Solanaceae, in particular in Balanocarpus zeylanicus, Caragana chamlagu, Caragana sinica, Carex fedia, Carex humilis, Carex kobomugi, Carex pendula, Carex pumila Thunb, Cyphostemma crotalarioides, Gnetum hainanense, Gnetum ula, Gnetum venosum, Hopea parviflora, Iris clarkei, Neobalanocarpus heimii , Paeoni lactiflora, Parthenocissus tricuspidata, Polygonum cuspidatum, Polygonum multiflorum, Shorea disticha, Shorea hemsleyana, Sophora davidii, Sophora leachiana, Sophora nuttaliana, Vatica rassak, Vatica affinis, Vitis amurensis, Vitis betulifolia, Vitis flexuosa, Vitis heyneana, Vitis quinquangularis, Vitis coignetiae, Vitis vinifera. Known in the art is the hormone-like action of the trans-epsilon-viniferin, which in turn resembles the action of the retinoids.

The hydroxystilbene oligomers are particularly preferably extracted from the Vitaceae, in particular from the stems of grapes, since these are readily available in terms of quantity. Suitable extractants are both water and organic solvents. Preferred organic solvents are ethyl acetate and / or diethyl ether. Disturbing lipids which are also extracted with, for example, can be removed by means of petroleum ether, hexane or chloroform. Preferred extraction methods are carried out by means of organic solvents and microwave or ultrasound treatment, or by maceration Lixiviation or by extraction by supercritical fluids. The thus enriched extracts are advantageously filtered, washed and most preferably freeze-dried. According to the invention, oligomers of hydroxystilbenes are dimers, trimers, tetramers, pentamers and hexamers of hydroxystilbenes. Particularly preferred are the dimers, trimers and tetramers, exceptionally preferred are the dimers of hydroxystilbenes.

The oligomerization is carried out according to the invention particularly preferably by the attack of a hydroxyl group on the ethylenic double bond of another Hydroxystilben molecule to form a Dihydrofuranrings, as exemplified above the example of (E) - Resveratrol and the oligomers formed from trans-epsilon-viniferin, Vitisin E and Vitisin D is described.

In principle, however, other oligomerization reactions are possible and may be preferred, for example the condensation of two or more hydroxystilbene molecules via the hydroxyl groups to form ether bonds. Since the oligomers formed by condensation are sterically less hindered than the oligomers formed on the ethylenic stilbene double bond, in addition to the dimers, trimers, tetramers, pentamers and hexamers also higher oligomers, such as heptamers and octamers, are possible.

The hydroxystilbene oligomers can be formed from identical monomers (= homooligomerization) or from different monomers (= hetero-oligomerization). Preferred according to the invention are the homo-oligomers, based on the non-derivatized, ie, for example, unetherified or non-esterified, hydroxystilbene monomers. The derivatization of the hydroxystilbene, for example the etherification or esterification of the OH groups, can take place before or after the oligomerization. The derivatization after the oligomerization can lead to an unsymmetrical substitution pattern. Particularly preferred compositions according to the invention comprise, based on the weight of the composition, 0.002 to 0.75% by weight, preferably 0.003 to 0.5% by weight, more preferably 0.004 to 0.25% by weight and in particular 0.005 to 0 1% by weight of at least one hydroxystilbene oligomer from the group of the hydroxystilbene monomers of the general formula (RESV-Ia) or (RESV-Ib):

(E) -hydroxystilbene (RESV-Ia)

(Z) -hydroxystilbenes (RESV-Ib), wherein the radicals R ¹ to R ¹⁰ independently of one another represent a hydrogen atom, an OH group, an alkyl group which is preferably a C 1 -C ₄ -alkyl group, an alkoxy group which is preferred a dC ₄ alkyl radical, a glycoside radical, a completely or partially neutralized phosphate group -OPO ₃ , a completely or partially neutralized sulfate group -OSO ₃ or an ester group -OCOR 'with R'COOH = organic acid may be, wherein at least one R ¹ to R ^{10 is} selected from an OH group, an alkoxy group which preferably carries a C 1 -C ₄ -alkyl radical, a glycoside radical, a completely or partially neutralized phosphate group -OPO ₃ , a completely or partially neutralized sulfate group -OSO ₃ and an ester group -OCOR 'with R'COOH = organic acid.

The alkyl group in the formulas RESV-I a and RESV-I b is preferably selected according to the invention from a methyl, ethyl, n-propyl, i-propyl, n-butyl, sec-butyl, tert-butyl - Group and 2-ethylhexyl group, more preferably selected from a methyl group. The alkoxy group in the formulas RESV-I a and RESV-I b is preferably selected according to the invention from a methoxy, ethoxy, n-propoxy, i-propoxy, n-butoxy, sec-butoxy, tert-butoxy Group and 2-ethylhexoxy group, more preferably selected from a methoxy group.

The glycoside radical in the formulas RESV-I a and RESV-I b is preferably selected according to the invention from a radical derived from D-glucose, fructose, D-galactose, L-arabinose, ribose, D-xylose, lyxose, Allose, altrose, mannose, gulose, idose, talose, fucose, and sucrose, wherein D-glucose, D-apiose, L-rhamnose, L-rhamnoglycosides, rutinose (6-0-alpha-L-rhamnopyranosyl-D-glucose) , D-glucuronic acid, D-galacturonic acid and neohesperidosis are particularly preferred.

The organic acid R'COOH, which is used for the esterification of the compounds represented in the formulas RESV-I a and RESV-I b, is preferably selected according to the invention from the linear and branched, saturated, monounsaturated and polyunsaturated, optionally aromatic dC ₃₀ -monocarboxylic acids, in particular formic acid, acetic acid, propionic acid, butanoic acid, pentanoic acid, valeric acid, isovaleric acid, hexanoic acid, sorbic acid ((E, E) -2,4-hexadienoic acid), 2-ethylhexanoic acid, heptanoic acid, benzoic acid, octanoic acid, nonanoic acid, decanoic acid, Undecanoic acid, lauric acid, tridecanoic acid, tetradecanoic acid, myristic acid, palmitic acid, palmitoleic acid, stearic acid, oleic acid, elaidic acid, petroselinic acid ((Z) -6-octadecenoic acid), linoleic acid, Linolenic acid, arachidic acid, arachidonic acid, (all-Z) -5,8,11,14,17-eicosapentaenoic acid, behenic acid, erucic acid, (all-Z) -4,7,10,13,16,19-docosahexaenoic acid, further preferred selected from the linear and branched, saturated, monounsaturated and polyunsaturated, optionally aromatic C ₂ -C ₂ o-hydroxymono-, -di- and tricarboxylic acids, in particular glycolic acid, lactic acid, tartaric acid, citric acid, 2-hydroxybutanoic acid, 2,3 Dihydroxypropanoic acid, 2-hydroxypentanoic acid, 2-hydroxyhexanoic acid, 2-hydroxyheptanoic acid, 2-hydroxyoctanoic acid, 2-hydroxydecanoic acid, 2-hydroxydodecanoic acid, 2-hydroxytetradecanoic acid, 2-hydroxyhexadecanoic acid, 2-hydroxyoctadecanoic acid,

Ricinoleic acid, mandelic acid (hydroxyphenylacetic acid), 4-hydroxymandelic acid, malic acid (malic acid), erytharic acid, threaric acid, glucaric acid, galactaric acid, mannaric acid, gular acid, 2-hydroxy-2-methylsuccinic acid, gluconic acid, glucuronic acid, galacturonic acid and salicylic acid, wherein hexanoic acid, sorbic acid ((E, E) -2,4-hexadienoic acid), 2-ethylhexanoic acid, octanoic acid, decanoic acid, lauric acid, myristic acid, palmitic acid, stearic acid, glycolic acid and lactic acid are particularly preferable.

Particularly preferred according to the invention are the oligomers of the (E) -hydroxystilbenes, in particular the dimers of the (E) -hydroxystilbenes.

Hydroxystilbene oligomers particularly preferred according to the invention are formed from the following hydroxystilbene monomers:

4'-hydroxystilbene (R ¹ = OH),

2 ', 4'-dihydroxystilbene (R ¹ = R ⁵ = OH),

3 ', 4'-dihydroxystilbene (R ² = R ⁵ = OH),

4,4'-dihydroxystilbene (R ¹ = R ⁹ = OH),

3,5-dihydroxystilbene (Pinosylvin) (R ³ = R ⁴ = OH),

3-hydroxy-5-methoxystilbene (Pinosylvinmonomethylether, (R ³ = OH, R ⁴ = -OCH ₃ )

2 ', 4', 4-trihydroxystilbene (R ¹ = R ⁵ = R ⁹ = OH),

3 ', 4', 4-trihydroxystilbene (R ² = R ⁵ = R ⁹ = OH),

2,4,4'-trihydroxystilbene (R ¹ = R ⁸ = R ⁹ = OH),

3,4,4'-trihydroxystilbene (R ¹ = R ³ = R ⁹ = OH),

3,4 ', 5-trihydroxystilbene (resveratrol) (R ¹ = R ³ = R ⁴ = OH),

2 ', 3,4-trihydroxystilbene (R ¹ = R ⁵ = R ⁶ = OH),

2,3 ', 4-trihydroxystilbene (R ⁵ = R ⁶ = R ⁸ = OH),

2 ', 2,4'-trihydroxystilbene (R ¹ = R ⁵ = R ⁸ = OH),

2,4,4 ', 5-Tetrahydroxystιlben (R ¹ = R ⁴ = R ⁸ = R ⁹ = OH),

2 ', 3,4', 5-tetrahydroxystilbene (R ¹ = R ³ = R ⁴ = R ⁵ = OH),

2,2 ', 4,4'-tetrahydroxystilbene (R ¹ = R ⁵ = R ⁸ = R ⁹ = OH),

3,3 ', 4', 5-tetrahydroxystilbene (piceatannol) (R ¹ = R ³ = R ⁴ = R ⁶ = OH),

2,3 ', 4,4'-tetrahydroxystilbene (R ¹ = R ⁶ = R ⁸ = R ⁹ = OH),

3,3 ', 4,4'-tetrahydroxystilbene (R ¹ = R ³ = R ⁶ = R ⁹ = OH),

3,3 ', 4', 5,5'-pentahydroxystilbene (R ¹ = R ² = R ³ = R ⁴ = R ⁶ = OH),

2,2 ', 4,4', 6-pentahydroxystilbene (R ¹ = R ⁵ = R ⁸ = R ⁹ = R ¹⁰ = OH), 2,3 ', 4,4', 6-pentahydroxystilbene (R ¹ = R ⁶ = R ⁸ = R ⁹ = R ¹⁰ = OH), 2,2 ', 4,4', 6,6'-hexahydroxystilbene (R ¹ = R ⁵ = R ⁷ = R ⁸ = R ⁹ = R ¹⁰ = OH), where R ^* = H not mentioned, that is, all other substituents R represent a hydrogen atom, and wherein all compounds in both the (E) -form as well as in the (Z) -form, wherein the compounds which are in the (E) -form are particularly preferred.

Hydroxystilbene oligomers particularly preferably used according to the invention are selected from trans-epsilon-viniferin, Vitisin E and Vitisin D and mixtures thereof, furthermore selected from mono-, di-, tri-, tetra- and pentamethoxy-trans-epsilon-viniferin, trans- epsilon-viniferin mono-, di-, tri-, tetra- and pentaalkanoates, in particular trans epsilon-viniferin mono-, di-, tri-, tetra- and pentapalmitate, mono-, di-, tri-, tetra- , Penta, hexa and heptamethoxy-Vitisin E, Vitisin E-mono-, di-, tri-, tetra-, penta-, hexa- and heptaalkanoates, in particular Vitisin E-mono-, di-, tri-, tetra- , Penta-, hexa- and heptapalmitate, mono-, di-, tri-, tetra-, penta-, hexa-, hepta-, octa-, nona- and decamethoxy- Vitisin D, Vitisin D-mono-, di-, Tris, tetra, penta, hexa, hepta, octa, nona and decaalkanoates, especially vitisin D mono-, di-, tri-, tetra-, penta-, hexa-, hepta-, octa- , Nona and decapalmitate, as well as mixtures thereof.

Particularly preferred compositions according to the invention are characterized in that they contain, based on the weight of the composition, from 0.0015 to 0.5% by weight, preferably from 0.002 to 0.25% by weight, more preferably from 0.003 to 0.1% by weight. % and in particular 0.004 to 0.05 wt .-% trans-epsilon-viniferin, Vitisin E and Vitisin D and mixtures thereof.

The compositions according to the invention also contain from 0.001 to 2% by weight of at least one apple seed extract.

An apple seed extract which is particularly preferred according to the invention is the commercial product Ederline of the manufacturer Seporga. Ederline contains phytohormones, isoflavonoids, phytosterols, triterpenoids, tocopherols and natural waxes. According to the manufacturer, in vitro tests with cultured skin cells show effects on the synthesis of collagen type I and collagen type III as well as on fibronectin. Furthermore, a positive effect of Ederline on the skin relief was measured in volunteer studies. In addition, the manufacturer's claims claim antioxidant and anti-inflammatory effects.

The experimental studies with Ederline have been performed on isolated cells of the skin. Described positive effects of Ederline on collagen type I and III and fibronectin could not be confirmed on the whole skin model. It is therefore assumed that the findings obtained on single cells can not be transferred to the skin organ in its three-dimensional structure.

The product Ederline is once in water-soluble form as Ederline-H (INCI: PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor OiI, PPG-2-Ceteareth-9, Pyrus Malus (Apple) Fruit Extract), and in fat-soluble form as Ederline-L (INCI., Hexyldecanol, Pyrus malus (Apple) Fruit Extract) available. Suitable amounts of edderline according to the invention are from 0.1 to 10% by weight, preferably from 1 to 8% by weight and more preferably from 3 to 5% by weight, based in each case on the entire composition. Based on the content of active ingredients, apple seed extracts according to the invention in amounts of 0.001 to 2 wt .-%, preferably 0.01 to 1, 6 wt .-% and particularly preferably 0.03 to 1 wt .-%, each based on the entire composition, used.

Particularly preferred compositions according to the invention are characterized in that they contain, based on the weight of the composition, 0.001-2% by weight, preferably 0.01-1.6% by weight and particularly preferably 0.03-1% by weight. Apple Kernel Extract (s) (based on Active Ingredient Content).

As a further essential ingredient, the compositions according to the invention comprise at least one oil-soluble UV filter comprising at least one alkyl- and / or alkoxy-substituted dibenzoylmethane derivative.

Alkyl and / or alkoxy-substituted dibenzoylmethane derivatives which are preferred according to the invention are characterized in that one of the phenyl radicals has at least one alkyl group selected from methyl, ethyl, n-propyl, isopropyl, n-butyl, sec-butyl, tert-butyl, n -Pentyl, isopentyl, neopentyl, 2-ethylhexyl, and the other phenyl radical having at least one alkoxy group selected from methoxy, ethoxy, n-propoxy, isopropoxy, n-butoxy, sec-butoxy, tert-butoxy, n-pentoxy, Isopentoxy, neopentoxyl, 2-ethylhexoxy, is substituted. Particularly preferred substituents are isopropyl, tert-butyl and methoxy. Preferred alkyl- and / or alkoxy-substituted dibenzoylmethane derivatives according to the invention are selected from 2-methyldibenzoylmethane, 4-methyldibenzoylmethane, 4-isopropyldibenzoylmethane, 4-tert-butyldibenzoylmethane, 2,4-dimethyldibenzoylmethane, 2,5-dimethyldibenzoylmethane, 4,4'-diisopropyldibenzoylmethane , 4,4'-dimethoxydibenzoylmethane, 4-tert-butyl-4'-methoxydibenzoylmethane, 2-methyl-5-isopropyl-4'-methoxydibenzoylmethane, 2-methyl-5-tert-butyl-4'-methoxydibenzoylmethane, 2,4 Dimethyl 4'-methoxydibenzoylmethane, 2,6-dimethyl-4-tert-butyl-4'-methoxydibenzoylmethane. Particularly preferred is 4-tert-butyl-4'-methoxydibenzoylmethane with the INCI name butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane (also referred to as 1- (4'-tert-butylphenyl) -3- (4'-methoxyphenyl) propane-1, 3-dione ), an oil-soluble organic sunscreen, the z. B. as PARSOL ^® 1789 from DSM or as Eusolex ^® 9020 from Merck KGaA is available.

Particularly preferred compositions according to the invention contain, based on the weight of the composition, from 0.01 to 5% by weight, preferably from 0.05 to 4% by weight, more preferably from 0.1 to 3% by weight, particularly preferably 0, 25 to 2 wt .-% and in particular 0.5 to 1, 5 wt .-% 4- (tert-butyl) -4'-methoxydibenzoylmethane. The compositions of the invention may further contain cosmetic adjuvants and other active ingredients such as are commonly used in such compositions, e.g. As preservatives, preservatives, bactericides, perfumes, dyes, thickeners, wetting and / or moisturizing substances, fats, oils, waxes, alcohols, polyols, polymers, electrolytes, organic solvents or silicone derivatives. Advantageous preservatives are, for example, formaldehyde releasers (such as, for example, DMDM hydantoin), iodopropyl butylcarbamates, parabens, phenoxyethanol, ethanol, benzoic acid and the like.

The preservative system preferably also comprises preserving aids, such as, for example, octoxyglycerol, 1, 2-pentanediol, 1, 5-pentanediol, 1, 2-hexanediol, 1, 6-hexanediol, 1, 2-heptanediol, 1, 2-octanediol, 1, 8-octanediol, 1,2-nonanediol, 1,2-decanediol, 1,10-decanediol, 1,2-undecanediol, 1,2-dodecanediol, 1,2-tridecanediol or 1,2-tetradecanediol. Particularly preferred compositions are also obtained when antioxidants are used as additives or active ingredients. According to the invention, the compositions preferably contain at least one antioxidant. As favorable, but nevertheless optional to be used antioxidants all suitable or customary for cosmetic and / or dermatological applications or antioxidants can be used, in particular tocopherol, tocopheryl acetate or dimethylmethoxy chromanol, available under the trade name Lipochroman-6 from Lipotec.

Further advantageously, the active ingredient (s) are selected from the group comprising catechins and bile acid esters of catechins and aqueous or organic extracts of plants or plant parts which have a content of catechins or bile acid esters of catechins, such as the leaves of the plant family Theaceae, in particular Species Camellia sinensis (green tea). Particularly advantageous are their typical ingredients (such as, for example, polyphenols or catechins, caffeine, vitamins, sugars, minerals, amino acids, lipids).

Catechins represent a group of compounds which are to be regarded as hydrogenated flavones or anthocyanidins and derivatives of "catechin" (catechol, 3, 3 ', 4', 5,7-flavanpentaol, 2- (3,4-dihydroxyphenyl) -chroman -3,5,7-triol). Also epicatechin ((2R, 3R) -3,3 ', 4', 5,7-flavanpentaol) is an advantageous active ingredient in the context of the present invention

Also advantageous are herbal extracts containing catechins, especially extracts of green tea, such as. B. extracts from leaves of the plants of the species Camellia spec, especially the teas Camellia sinenis, C. assamica, C. taliensis or C. irrawadiensis and crosses of these with, for example, Camellia japonica. Further preferred active substances are polyphenols or catechins from the group (-) - catechin, (+) - catechin, (-) - catechin gallate, (-) - gallocatechin gallate, (+) - epicatechin, (-) - epicatechin, (-) -Epi- catechin gallate, (-) - epigallocatechin, (-) - epigallocatechin gallate.

In a further preferred embodiment, the compositions according to the invention contain at least one flavonoid or at least one flavonoid-rich plant extract.

The flavonoids preferred according to the invention include the glycosides of the flavones, the flavanone, the 3-hydroxyflavone (flavonols), the aurones and the isoflavones. Particularly preferred flavonoids are selected from naringin (aurantiine, naringenin-7-rhamnoglucoside), α-glucosylrutin, α-glucosylmyricetin, α-glucosylisoquercetin, α-glucosylquercetin, Dihydroquercetin (taxifolin), hesperidin (3 ', 5,7-trihydroxy-4'-methoxyflavanone-7-rhamnoglucoside, hesperitin-7-O-rhamnoglucoside), neohesperidin, rutin (3,3', 4 ', 5, 7-pentahydroxyflavone-3-rhamnoglucoside, quercetin-3-rhamnoglucoside), troxerutin (3,5-dihydroxy-3 ', 4', 7-tris (2-hydroxyethoxy) -flavone-3- (6-O- (6- deoxy-α-L-mannopyranosyl) -β-D-glucopyranoside)), monoxerutin (3,3 ', 4', 5-tetrahydroxy-7- (2-hydroxyethoxy) -flavone-3- (6-O- (6 -deoxy-α-L-mannopyranosyl) -β-D-glucopyranoside), diosmin (3 ', 4', 7-trihydroxy-5-methoxyflavanone-7-rhamnoglucoside), eriodictin and apigenin-7-glucoside (4 ', 5,7-trihydroxyflavone-7-glucoside). Extremely preferred flavonoids according to the invention are α-glucosylrutin, naringin and apigenin-7-glucoside.

Also preferred are the biflavonoids constructed from two flavonoid units, e.g. B. occur in gingko species. Other preferred flavonoids are the chalcones, especially phloricin, hesperidin methyl chalcone and neohesperidin dihydrochalcone. Particularly preferred compositions according to the invention are characterized in that they contain at least one flavonoid in a total amount of from 0.0001 to 1% by weight, preferably from 0.0005 to 0.5% by weight and more preferably from 0.001 to 0.1% by weight. %, in each case based on the flavonoid active substance in the entire cosmetic composition.

In a further preferred embodiment, the compositions according to the invention comprise at least one ubiquinone or a ubiquinol or derivatives thereof. Ubiquinols are the reduced form of ubiquinones. The preferred ubiquinones according to the invention have the formula (UBI-I):

(UBL-I)

with n = 6, 7, 8, 9 or 10.

Particularly preferred is the ubiquinone of the formula (UBI-I) with n = 10, also known as coenzyme Q10. Particularly preferred compositions according to the invention are characterized in that they contain at least one ubiquinone, ubiquinol or a derivative thereof in a total amount of 0.0001-1% by weight, preferably 0.001-0.5% by weight and particularly preferably 0.005-0, 1 wt .-%, each based on the total composition included.

In a further preferred embodiment, the compositions according to the invention contain silymarin. Silymarin provides according to the invention earlier than uniform Substance considered active substance concentrate from the fruits of the milk thistle (Silybum marianum) dar. The main constituents of the Silymarin are Silybin (Silymarin I), Silychristin (Silymarin II) and Silydianin, which belong to the group of Flavanolignane. Compositions which are particularly preferred according to the invention are characterized in that they contain silymarin in amounts of 0.00001 to 1% by weight, preferably 0.0001 to 0.01% by weight and more preferably 0.005 to 0.1% by weight, in each case based on the total composition.

In a further preferred embodiment, the compositions according to the invention comprise at least one naturally occurring xanthine derivative selected from caffeine, theophylline, theobromine and aminophylline. According to the invention, the naturally occurring xanthine derivatives are preferred in amounts of from 0.0001 to 1% by weight, more preferably from 0.001 to 0.5% by weight and most preferably from 0.005 to 0.1% by weight, based in each case on entire composition, included.

In a further preferred embodiment, the compositions according to the invention contain ectoine. Ectoin is the common name for 2-methyl-1, 4,5,6-tetrahydropyrimidine-4-carboxylate. According to the invention, ectoine is preferably present in amounts of from 0.0001 to 1% by weight, more preferably from 0.001 to 0.5% by weight, and most preferably from 0.005 to 0.01% by weight, based in each case on the total composition. In a further preferred embodiment, the compositions according to the invention comprise at least one natural betaine compound. Naturally preferred natural betaine compounds according to the invention are naturally occurring compounds with the atomic grouping R ₃ N ⁺ -CH ₂ -X-COO ^" according to ILJPAC Rule C-816.1 So-called betaine surfactants (synthetic) do not fall under the betaine compounds used according to the invention, nor do other zwitterionic compounds in which the positive charge on N or P and the negative charge is formally O, S, B or C, but which do not correspond to ILJPAC Rule C-816.1 Betaine compounds preferred according to the invention are betaine (Me ₃ N ⁺ -CH ₂ -COO ^" ), carnitine (Me ₃ N ⁺ -CH ₂ -CHOH-CH ₂ -COO ^" ), each with Me = methyl, and ergothionein = 2-mercapto-N ^α N ^α N ^α -trimethyl-L-histidinium Betaine of the formula (BETA-II)

The origin of the natural betaine compound used according to the invention may well be synthetic. Furthermore, salts and / or esters of natural betaine compounds according to the invention can preferably be used. Particularly preferred such derivatives are carnitine tartrate, propionyl carnitine and especially acetyl carnitine. Both enantiomers (D and L form) are to be used advantageously in the context of the present invention. It may also be advantageous to use any mixtures of enantiomers, for example a racemate of D and L form. Preferred compositions according to the invention are characterized in that they contain at least one natural betaine compound in a total amount of 0.01 to 5 wt.%, Preferably 0.1 to 3 wt.%, Particularly preferably 0.2 to 1 wt extraordinarily preferably 0.3-0.5% by weight, based in each case on the total composition according to the invention.

Further inventively preferred compositions are characterized in that they contain at least one conditioning agent. According to the invention, conditioning substances are to be understood as substances which are absorbed by keratinic materials, in particular on the skin, and improve the physical and sensory properties of both the skin and of the product as such. Conditioners smooth the top layer of the skin and make it soft and supple. Through the choice of conditioning agents (greasy - less greasy, fast or slow spreading, quickly or slowly absorbed into the skin and so on), the skin feel of the entire product can be adjusted.

Conditioning agents according to the invention are selected from fatty substances, in particular vegetable oils, such as sunflower oil, olive oil, soybean oil, rapeseed oil, almond oil, jojoba oil, orange oil, wheat germ oil, peach kernel oil and the liquid portions of coconut oil, lanolin and its derivatives, liquid paraffin oils, isoparaffin oils and synthetic hydrocarbons , Di-n-alkyl ethers having a total of 12 to 36 carbon atoms, z. As di-n-octyl ether and n-hexyl-n-octyl ether, fatty acids, especially linear and / or branched, saturated and / or unsaturated C ₈ - ₃ o fatty acids, fatty alcohols, particularly saturated, mono- or polyunsaturated, branched or unbranched fatty alcohols having 4-30 carbon atoms which may be ethoxylated with 1-75, preferably 5-20 ethylene oxide units and / or propoxylated with 3-30, preferably 9-14 propylene oxide units, ester oils, ie esters of C ₆ - ₃ o-fatty acids with C ₂ - ₃ o-fatty alcohols, hydroxycarboxylic acid alkyl esters, dicarboxylic acid esters such as di-n-butyl adipate and diol esters such as ethylene glycol dioleate or propylene glycol di (2-ethylhexanoate), symmetrical, asymmetrical or cyclic esters of carbonic acid with fatty alcohols, eg. B. Glycenncarbonat or dicaprylyl carbonate (Cetiol ^® CC), mono, - di- and tri fatty acid esters of saturated and / or unsaturated linear and / or branched fatty acids with glycerol, with 1 - 10, preferably 7-9 ethylene oxide units may be ethoxylated, z. B PEG-7 glyceryl cocoate, waxes, in particular insect waxes, plant waxes, fruit waxes, ozokerite, microwaxes, ceresin, paraffin waxes, triglycerides of saturated and optionally hydroxylated Ci ₆ - ₃ o fatty acids, eg. Hardened triglyceride fats, phospholipids, for example soybean lecithin, egg lecithin and cephalins, silicone compounds selected from decamethylcyclopentasiloxane, dodecamethylcyclohexasiloxane and silicone polymers which may, if desired, be cross-linked, e.g. B. polydialkylsiloxanes, polyalkylarylsiloxanes, ethoxylated and / or propoxylated polydialkylsiloxanes with the earlier INCI name dimethicone copolyol, as well as polydialkylsiloxanes, the amine and / or hydroxyl groups preferably substances with the INCI names dimethiconol, amodimethicone or trimethylsilylamodimethicones.

The amount of fatty substances used is preferably 0.1 to 99% by weight, more preferably 2 to 50% by weight and most preferably 5 to 20% by weight, based in each case on the total composition according to the invention.

The cosmetic or dermatological compositions according to the invention are preferably in the form of a liquid, flowable or solid oil-in-water emulsion, water-in-oil emulsion, multiple emulsion, in particular an oil-in-water-in-oil or water-in Oil-in-water emulsion, macroemulsion, miniemulsion, microemulsion, PIT emulsion, nanoemulsion, Pickering emulsion, hydrodispersion, a hydrogel, a lipogel, a mono- or multiphase solution, a foam, a powder or a mixture with at least a polymer suitable as a medical adhesive. The agents may also be presented in anhydrous form, such as an oil or a balm. Here, the carrier may be a vegetable or animal oil, a mineral oil, a synthetic oil or a mixture of such oils.

In a particularly preferred embodiment of the agents according to the invention, the agents are present as microemulsions. In the context of the invention, microemulsions are understood as meaning, in addition to the thermodynamically stable microemulsions, also the so-called "PIT emulsions." These emulsions are systems containing the three components water, oil and emulsifier, which are oil-in-water at room temperature. When these systems are heated, microemulsions are formed in a certain temperature range (referred to as the phase inversion temperature or "PIT"), which convert to water-in-oil emulsions upon further heating and then O / W emulsions again However, these are also present at room temperature as microemulsions or as very finely divided emulsions having an average particle diameter of less than 400 nm and in particular of about 100 to 300 nm of about 200 nm.

In the preferred embodiment as an emulsion, the compositions according to the invention contain at least one surface-active substance as emulsifier or dispersant. Suitable emulsifiers are for example adducts of from 4 to 30 mol ethylene oxide and / or 0 to 5 mol propylene oxide onto linear fatty alcohols _ΣΣ Cs-C, to C ₂ - C ₂₂ fatty acids and C ₈ -C ₁₅ alkylphenols, C ₂ - C ₂₂ -fatty acid mono- and diesters of addition products of 1 to 30 mol of ethylene oxide onto C ₃ -C _e -polyols, in particular on glycerol, ethylene oxide and polyglycerol addition products of methylglucoside fatty acid esters, fatty acid alkanolamides and fatty acid glucamides, C ₈ -C ₂₂ - Alkylmono- and -oligoglycoside and their ethoxylated analogues, wherein Oligomerisierungsgrade of 1, 1 to 5, in particular 1, 2 to 2.0, and glucose are preferred as the sugar component, mixtures of alkyl (olιgo) -glu- cosiden and fatty alcohols, eg , Example, the commercially available product Montanov ^® 68, addition products of 5 to 60 moles of ethylene oxide to castor oil and hydrogenated castor oil, partial esters of polyols having 3-6 carbon atoms with saturated C ₈ -C ₂₂ -fatty acids, sterols, in particular cholesterol, lanosterol, beta-sitosterol, stigmasterol, campesterol and ergosterol as well as mycosterols, phospholipids, especially glucose phospholipids, fatty acid esters of sugars and sugar alcohols such as sorbitol, polyglycerols and polyglycerol, preferably Polyglyceryl-2-dipolyhydroxystearate (commercial product Dehymuls ^® PGPH) and polyglyceryl-3-diisostearate (commercial product Lameform ^® TGI) as well as linear and branched C ₈ -C ₃₀ fatty acids and their Na, K, ammonium, Ca, Mg and Zn salts. The compositions according to the invention preferably contain the emulsifiers in amounts of from 0.1 to 25% by weight, particularly preferably 0.5 to 15% by weight, based on the total composition.

In a particularly preferred embodiment, at least one nonionic emulsifier having an HLB value of 8 and below is included. Such preferred emulsifiers are in particular compounds of the general formula R ¹ -O-R ² , in which R ^{1 is} a primary linear alkyl, alkenyl or acyl group having 20-30 C atoms, preferably a behenyl radical, and R ^{2 is} hydrogen, a group having the formula - (C _n H _2n O) _x -H where x = 1 or 2 and n = 2 - 4 or a polyhydroxyalkyl group having 4-6 C atoms and 2-5 hydroxyl groups, preferably hydrogen. A particularly preferred compound R ¹ -O-R ² is behenyl alcohol. Further preferred emulsifiers with an HLB value of 8 and below are the adducts of 1 or 2 moles of ethylene oxide or propylene oxide with behenyl alcohol, erucyl alcohol, arachidyl alcohol or behenic acid or erucic acid. Preferably, the monoesters of C _ie -C ₃ o fatty acids with polyols such. As pentaerythritol, trimethylolpropane, diglycerol, sorbitol, glucose or methyl glucose. Examples of such products are z. B. sorbitan monobehenate or pentaerythritol monoerucate. The presence of emulsifiers of the general formula R ¹ -O-R ² can lead to lamellar structures in the emulsion, which can have particularly favorable effects on the restoration of the lamellar structure of the skin. Particularly preferred compositions according to the invention are therefore characterized in that they are present in the form of a lamellar structures oil-in-water emulsion.

In a further particularly preferred embodiment, the compositions according to the invention are in the form of a water-in-oil emulsion. Such water-in-oil emulsions can be formulated to have a higher viscosity so that they can be carefully sized into the skin. This supports the anti-cellulite effect of the compositions of the invention. Just as well, however, low-viscosity water-in-oil emulsions can be formulated, in particular based on the polymeric water-in-oil emulsifier PEG-30 dipolyhydroxystearate, available for. B. under the trade name Arlacel P 135 from Uniqema. In particular, with the help of this emulsifier sprayable water-in-oil emulsions can be formulated.

Other suitable additives are thickeners, for. B. anionic polymers of acrylic acid, methacrylic acid, crotonic acid, maleic anhydride and 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid, where the acidic groups in whole or in part as sodium, potassium, Ammonium, mono- or triethanolammonium salt may be present and wherein at least one nonionic monomer may be contained. Preferred nonionic monomers are acrylamide, methacrylamide, acrylic esters, methacrylic esters, vinylpyrrolidone, vinyl ethers and vinyl esters. Preferred anionic copolymers are acrylic acid-acrylamide copolymers and in particular polyacrylamide copolymers with sulfonic acid-containing monomers. These copolymers can also be present in crosslinked form. Suitable commercial products are ^β Sepigel 305, Simulgel ^® 600, Simulgel ^® NS and Simulgel ^® EC company SEPPIC. Further particularly preferred anionic homo- and copolymers are uncrosslinked and crosslinked polyacrylic acids Such compounds are for example the commercial products Carbopol ^® A particularly preferred anionic copolymer contains as monomer to 80-98% unsaturated, optionally substituted C. ₃ _6- carboxylic acid or its anhydride and to 2 - 20%, if desired, substituted acrylic acid esters of saturated C ₁₀ - ₃ o-carboxylic acids, wherein the copolymer can be crosslinked with the aforementioned crosslinking agents. Corresponding commercial products are Pemulen ^® and Carbopol ^® grades 954, 980, 1342 and ETD 2020 (ex BF Goodrich).

Suitable nonionic polymers include polyvinyl alcohols, which may be partially saponified, for. B. the commercial products Mowiol ^® and vinylpyrrolidone / vinyl ester copolymers and polyvinylpyrrolidones z. B. under the trademark Luviskol ^® (BASF) are sold. Further preferred additives are solvents such as ethanol, isopropanol, ethylene glycol, propylene glycol, propylene glycol monoethyl ether, glycerol and diethylene glycol, perfume oils, substances for adjusting the pH, complexing agents such as EDTA, NTA, .beta.-alaninediacetic acid and phosphonic acids, propellants such as propane-butane. Mixtures, pentane, isopentane, isobutane, N ₂ O, dimethyl ether, CO ₂ and air.

Further objects of the present invention are the use of a cosmetic or dermatological topical composition according to the invention for the non-therapeutic, cosmetic treatment and / or minimization of skin wrinkles and wrinkles, the signs of intrinsic and extrinsic skin aging, tired and / or flabby skin, UV-damaged skin and or irritated skin and the use of a cosmetic or dermatological topical composition according to the invention for non-therapeutic, cosmetic relaxation of the musculature, in particular of the facial muscles.

For preferred embodiments of the uses according to the invention mutatis mutandis applies to the means of the invention.

A further subject of the present invention is a non-therapeutic method for the non-therapeutic, cosmetic treatment and / or minimization of skin wrinkles and wrinkles, the signs of intrinsic and extrinsic skin aging, tired and / or flabby skin, UV-damaged skin and / or or irritated skin, which is characterized in that a cosmetic or dermatological topical composition according to the invention is applied to the skin. Another object of the present invention is a non-therapeutic method for non-therapeutic, cosmetic relaxation of the muscles, in particular the facial muscles, which is characterized in that a cosmetic or dermatological topical composition according to any one of claims 1 to 8 is applied to the skin ,

Also for preferred embodiments of the method according to the invention mutatis mutandis applies to the means of the invention.

The following examples are intended to illustrate the subject matter of the invention without limiting it thereto.

Table: All amounts are in wt .-%.

List of raw materials used

The following investigations were carried out:

The skin-smoothing properties of the daily fluid according to the invention (see table above) were determined using the non-contact method FOITS (Fast Optical In Vivo Topometry of Human Skin).

The test panel included 29 subjects who twice daily applied a standardized amount of the cream of the invention to one eye for 4 weeks while the area around the other eye served as an untreated test control. The skin relief was determined by means of FOITS immediately before the start of treatment and after 28 days. For this purpose, the DIN parameters R _z (roughness value) and R _a (wrinkle depth), averaged over the entire test panel, were determined and corrected for the value of the untreated skin area.

Compared to the untreated skin area, a statistically significant smoothing of the skin relief for R _z was - 4.4%, for R _a - 4.9%, corresponding to a clearly visible smoothing of the skin.

Claims

claims:

1. Cosmetic or dermatological topical composition containing at least one DNA repair enzyme and at least one oligopeptide which have at least one NC ₂ -C ₂₄ acyl radical and / or may be esterified, characterized in that they additionally - in each case based on the Weight of the composition - in a cosmetically acceptable carrier: a) 0.001 to 1% by weight of at least one hydroxystilbene oligomer, its alkyl ethers and / or its esters, b) 0.001 to 2% by weight of at least one Apple seed extract, c) at least one oil-soluble UV filter comprising at least one alkyl- and / or alkoxy-substituted dibenzoylmethane derivative.

2. Composition according to claim 1, characterized in that it - based on the weight of the composition - 0.00001 - 1 wt -%, preferably 0.0001 - 0.1 wt .-%, particularly preferably 0.001-0.05 wt % and most preferably 0.002 to 0.005% by weight of at least one DNA repair enzyme from the group photolyase and T 4 endonuclease V and mixtures of these enzymes.

3. Composition according to one of claims 1 or 2, characterized in that it - based on the weight of the composition - 0.00001 - 1 wt .-%, preferably 0.0001 - 0.1 wt .-%, particularly preferably 0.001 0.05% by weight and most preferably 0.002-0.005% by weight of at least one di-, tri-, tetra-, penta- or hexapeptide which acylates and / or esterifies with at least one NC ₂ -C ₂₄ -acyl radical and mixtures of these substances.

4. Composition according to one of claims 1 to 3, characterized in that it - based on the weight of the composition - 0.00001 - 1 wt .-%, preferably 0.0001 - 0.1 wt .-%, particularly preferably 0.001 0.05% by weight and most preferably 0.002-0.005% by weight of at least one oligopeptide from the group Tyr-Arg and its N-acylated derivatives, in particular N-acetyl-Tyr-Arg-hexyldecylester, Gly-His-Lys and its N-acylated derivatives, in particular N-palmitoyl-Gly-His-Lys, Gly-His-Arg, and its N-acylated derivatives, in particular N-myristoyl-Gly-His-Arg, Lys-Val-Lys and its N-acylated derivatives. acylated derivatives, in particular Palmitoyl-Lys-Val-Lys, Val-Tyr-Val, Gly-Gln-Pro-Arg (Rigin), Rigin analogs and Rigin derivatives, in particular N-palmitoyl-Gly-Gln-Pro-Arg, Lys-Thr-Thr-Lys-Ser and its N-acylated derivatives, in particular N-palmitoyl-Lys-Thr-Thr-Lys-Ser, VaI-Gly-Val-Ala-Pro-Gly and its N-acylated derivatives, in particular N-palmitoyl Val-Gly-Val-Ala-Pro-Gly, Acetyl-Hexapeptide-3, Hexapeptide-4, Hexapeptide-5, Myristoyl Hexapeptide-5, Myristoyl Hexapeptide-6, Hexapeptide-8, Hexapeptide-9, Hexapeptide-10, L- Glutamylaminoethyl-indole, and combinations of these substances, in particular combinations of N-palmitoyl-Gly-His-Lys and N-palmitoyl-Gly-Gln-Pro-Arg.

5. Composition according to one of claims 1 to 4, characterized in that it - based on the weight of the composition - 0.002 to 0.75 wt .-%, preferably 0.003 to 0.5 wt .-%, more preferably 0.004 to 0 , 25 wt .-% and in particular 0.005 to 0.1 wt .-% of at least one hydroxystilbene oligomer from the group of hydroxystilbene monomers of the general formula (RESV-Ia) or (RESV-Ib) contains:

(E) -hydroxystilbene (RESV-Ia)

(Z) -hydroxystilbene (RESV-Ib), wherein the radicals R ¹ to R ^{10 are} independently a hydrogen atom, an OH group, an alkyl group, which is preferably a C 1 -C ₄ alkyl group, an alkoxy group, preferably a C-rC ₄ alkyl radical, a glycoside radical, a completely or partially neutralized phosphate group -OPO ₃ , a completely or partially neutralized sulfate group -OSO ₃ or an ester group -OCOR 'with R'COOH = organic acid may be, wherein at least one of the radicals R ¹ is selected from R ¹⁰ to an OH group, an alkoxy group, preferably having a Ci-C ₄ - alkyl group bears a glycoside radical, a completely or partially neutralized phosphoric phatgruppe -OPO ₃ , a completely or partially neutralized sulfate group -OSO ₃ and an ester group -OCOR 'with R'COOH = organic acid.

6. A composition according to any one of claims 1 to 5, characterized in that it - based on the weight of the composition - 0.0015 to 0.5 wt .-%, preferably 0.002 to 0.25 wt .-%, more preferably 0.003 to 0.1 wt .-% and in particular 0.004 to 0.05 wt .-% trans-epsilon-viniferin, Vitisin E and Vitisin D and mixtures thereof.

7. A composition according to any one of claims 1 to 6, characterized in that it - based on the weight of the composition - 0.001 - 2 wt .-%, preferably 0.01 - 1, 6 wt .-% and particularly preferably 0.03 - 1 wt .-% apple seed extract (s) (based on the content of active ingredients) contains.

8. Composition according to one of claims 1 to 7, characterized in that it - based on the weight of the composition - 0.01 to 5 wt .-%, preferably 0.05 to 4 wt .-%, more preferably 0.1 to 3 wt .-%, particularly preferably 0.25 to 2 wt .-% and in particular 0.5 to 1, 5 wt .-% 4- (tert-butyl) -4'-methoxydibenzoylmethane.

Use of a cosmetic or dermatological topical composition according to any one of claims 1 to 8 for the non-therapeutic, cosmetic treatment and / or minimization of skin wrinkles and wrinkles, the signs of intrinsic and extrinsic skin aging, tired and / or saggy skin, UV-damaged skin Skin and / or irritated skin.

10. Use of a cosmetic or dermatological topical composition according to any one of claims 1 to 8 for non-therapeutic, cosmetic relaxation of the muscles, in particular the facial muscles.

11. A non-therapeutic method of non-therapeutic, cosmetic treatment and / or minimization of skin wrinkles and wrinkles, signs of intrinsic and extrinsic skin aging, tired and / or flabby skin, UV-damaged skin and / or irritated skin, characterized in that a cosmetic or dermatological topical composition according to any one of claims 1 to 8 is applied to the skin.

12. A non-therapeutic method for non-therapeutic, cosmetic relaxation of the musculature, in particular of the facial musculature, which is characterized in that a cosmetic or dermatological topical A composition according to any one of claims 1 to 8 is applied to the skin.