WO2010000573A2

WO2010000573A2 - Imidazoline-containing hair-conditioning agents

Info

Publication number: WO2010000573A2
Application number: PCT/EP2009/057077
Authority: WO
Inventors: Marcus Krueger; Dieter Goddinger
Original assignee: Henkel Ag & Co. Kgaa
Priority date: 2008-07-04
Filing date: 2009-06-09
Publication date: 2010-01-07
Also published as: WO2010000573A3; DE102008031702A1; EP2317972A2

Abstract

The invention relates to cosmetic preparations, especially hair-conditioning agents, which contain at least one imidazoline derivative with at least two long fatty groups and at least one monoalkyltrimethylammonium salt with a chain length of the alkyl group of 16 to 24 carbon atoms.

Description

"Hair conditioning agents with imidazolines"

The invention relates to hair treatment compositions containing cationic imidazolines and monoalkyltrimethylammonium salts and the use of these agents for the treatment of skin and hair.

Not least due to the heavy use of hair, for example by dyeing or perming, as well as by the cleaning of the hair with shampoos and by environmental pollution, the importance of care products with the longest possible effect increases.

However, the known active ingredients can not cover all needs sufficiently. There is therefore still a need for active ingredients or combinations of active substances for cosmetic products with good care properties and good biodegradability. In particular in dye-containing and / or electrolyte-containing formulations, there is a need for additional skin-care active ingredients which can be incorporated without problems into known formulations.

Quaternary ammonium compounds of the mono-, di- and / or trialkylammonium type have been known for a long time. A disadvantage of these compounds, however, is their lack of biodegradability. Therefore, cationic compounds containing at least one ester group, the so-called ester quats, have been developed. These, however, show a sensation of being unpleasantly dull in terms of the feel and feel of wet skin and hair as well as the touch and feel of the rewashed skin or hair, which is also perceived as "squeaky" audible. Cationic imidazolines are known to the person skilled in the art as a further class of cationic surfactants, for example from International Publication WO 2006/012930. However, the imidazolines are not able to convince in all properties expected of a hair care agent.

Surprisingly, however, it has been found that cationic imidazolines of the formula I, in particular those which have a chain length of the radical R of at least 18 C atoms, preferably 20 C atoms, particularly preferably 21 C atoms, in combination with monoalkyltrimethylammonium salts having a chain length of the alkyl group of 16 to 24 carbon atoms satisfies the requirements of hair care compositions in an excellent manner. Furthermore, the properties of these inventive Compositions are again significantly improved if further at least one amine and / or a quaternized amine, in particular at least one amidoamine and / or a cationized amidoamine are used.

The use of these combinations leads to surprisingly good properties of the treated skin and hair, in particular to improved combing, to improved gloss and to improved elasticity, as well as to a markedly increased washfastness of dyed hair and to a longer shelf life in one Simultaneous better forming performance in corrugations such as water wave and perm.

A first subject of the present invention is therefore a composition for the treatment of keratinic fibers, comprising a) at least 0.01% by weight of a quaternary imidazoline derivative having at least two long fatty residues according to formula I and b) from 0.01 to 5.0% by weight. % of a monoalkyltrimethylammonium salt having a chain length of the alkyl radical of 16 to 24 carbon atoms and c) a cosmetic carrier.

The compositions according to the invention contain an active ingredient combination of at least two constituents, the constituents a) and b) being used within a certain weight ratio to one another. In preferred agents according to the invention, the weight ratio of imidazoline derivatives a) of the formula I to one of the other cationic compounds b) is 50: 1 to 1: 1, preferably 20: 1 to 1: 1, more preferably 5: 1 to 1: 1 and especially 2 , 5: 1 to 1: 1.

Ingredients a) and b) are described in detail below. As far as below the active ingredient complex (A) is spoken, this statement refers to the ingredients contained in the inventive compositions a), and b).

Hair treatment compositions for the purposes of the present invention are, for example, hair dyes, bleaching agents, hair shampoos, hair conditioners, conditioning shampoos, hair sprays, hair rinses, hair treatments, hair wraps, hair tonics, perming solutions, hair dye shampoos, hair dyes, hair fixatives, hair dressings, hair styling preparations, hair lotions , Mousse, hair gels, hair waxes or combinations thereof. In view of the fact that the consumer, but in particular men often shy away from the use of several different means and / or several application steps, means according to the invention are preferably those means which the consumer, in particular the man applies anyway. Preferred agents according to the invention are therefore shampoos, conditioners or hair tonics.

By combing is understood according to the invention both the combability of the wet fiber, as well as the combability of the dry fiber. As a measure of the combing used the combing work or the force used during the combing serves a Fiber collective. The measurement parameters can be judged by the expert or sensory

Measuring devices are quantified.

As a handle defines the tactility of a fiber collective, the expert sensory the

Parameter abundance and suppleness of the collective feels and evaluates.

Shaping is understood to mean the ability to give a shape change to a group of previously treated keratin-containing fibers, in particular human hair. Hair cosmetics also speak of hair styling.

In the context of an oxidative hair treatment, the action of an oxidative cosmetic agent containing at least one oxidizing agent on hair in a cosmetic carrier is defined according to the invention.

Suitable cosmetic vehicles according to the invention are in particular O / W, W / O and W / O / W.

Emulsions in the form of creams or gels or surfactant-containing foaming solutions, such as shampoos, foam aerosols or other preparations, in particular for the

Application on the hair are suitable. But it is also conceivable to integrate the ingredients in a powdered or tablet-like formulation, which is dissolved in water before use. The cosmetic carriers may in particular be aqueous or aqueous-alcoholic.

An aqueous cosmetic carrier contains at least 50% by weight of water.

For the purposes of the present invention, aqueous-alcoholic cosmetic carriers include aqueous solutions containing from 3 to 70% by weight of a C ₁ -C ₆ -alkoxy, in particular methanol, ethanol or propanol, isopropanol, butanol, isobutanol, tert-butanol, n-pentanol, iso-pentanols, n-hexanol, iso-hexanols, glycol, glycerol, 1, 2-pentanediol, 1, 5-pentanediol, 1, 2-hexanediol or 1, 6-hexanediol to understand. The compositions according to the invention may additionally contain further organic solvents, for example methoxybutanol, benzyl alcohol, ethyl diglycol or 1,2-propylene glycol. Preference is given to all water-soluble organic solvents.

As ingredient a) the agents according to the invention contain at least one quaternary imidazoline compound, i. a compound having a positively charged imidazoline ring. The formula I shown below shows the structure of these compounds.

S- O

Formula I The radicals R independently of one another each represent a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched hydrocarbon radical having a chain length of 18 to 30 carbon atoms. The preferred compounds of the formula I each contain the same hydrocarbon radical for R. The chain length of the radicals R is at least 18 carbon atoms. Preference is given to compounds having a chain length of at least 19 carbon atoms and more preferably having at least 20 carbon atoms. A very particularly preferred compound of the formula I has a chain length of 21 carbon atoms. A commercial product of this chain length is known, for example, under the name Quaternium-91. In formula I is shown as the counterion methosulfate. However, according to the invention, the counterions also include the halides, such as chloride, fluoride, bromide, or else phosphates.

The imidazolines of the formula I are present in the compositions according to the invention in amounts of from 0.01 to 20% by weight, preferably in amounts of from 0.01 to 10% by weight and very particularly preferably in amounts of from 0.1 to 7.5% by weight. % contain. The very best results are obtained with amounts of from 0.1 to 5% by weight, based in each case on the total composition of the particular agent.

As ingredient b) Monoalkyltrimethylammoniumsalze be understood with a chain length of the alkyl radical of 16 to 24 carbon atoms. These compounds have the structure shown in the formula (Tkat1-1)

R1

R4-N ⁺ - R2 R3

wherein R 1, R 2 and R 3 are each a methyl group and R 4 is a saturated, branched or unbranched alkyl radical having a chain length of 16 to 24 carbon atoms and A ^"is an anion selected from the physiologically acceptable anions The halides are exemplified by the anion , Fluoride, chloride, bromide, sulfate (methosulfate) of the general formula RSO ₃ ^" in which R has the meaning of saturated or unsaturated alkyl radicals having 1 to 4 carbon atoms, or anionic radicals of organic acids such as maleate, fumarate, oxalate, tartrate, citrate, lactate or acetate, called.

Particularly preferred compounds of the formula (Tkat1-1) have as anion the chloride or methosulfate having a methyl group as radical R1 to R3, and furthermore as radical R4 a saturated, branched or unbranched alkyl radical, very particularly preferably unbranched alkyl radical having a chain length of 18 to 24, most preferably having a chain length of 22 to 24 carbon atoms.

Examples of compounds of the formula (Tkat1-1) are cetyltrimethylammonium chloride, cetyltrimethylammonium bromide, cetyltrimethylammonium methosulfate, Stearyltrimethylammonium chloride, behenyltrimethylammonium chloride,

Behenyltrimethylammonium bromide and behenyltrimethylammoniumninethosulfate. Preference is given to cetyltrimethylammonium and behenyltrimethylammonium salts. Particularly preferred are the latter in the form of methosulfates and bromides. Most preferred are cetyltrimethylammonium methosulfate and behenyltrimethylammonium methosulfate and most preferred is behenyltrimethylammonium methosulfate.

The compounds of the formula (Tkat1-1) are used in the compositions according to the invention in an amount of 0.01 to 5.0% by weight. Preferably, 0.1 to 5.0 wt.% Are used. Particular preference is given to amounts of from 0.1 to 3.0% by weight. The quantities are based on the total composition.

In a particularly preferred embodiment of the invention, the compositions according to the invention furthermore comprise at least one amine and / or cationized amine, in particular an amidoamine and / or a cationized amidoamine with the following

Structural formulas:

R ¹ --NH - (CH ₂ ) _n --NR ² R ³ (Tkat7) and / or

R ¹ --NH - (CH ₂ ) _n --NR ² R ³ R ⁴ (Tkatδ) wherein R ^{1 is} an acyl or alkyl radical having 6 to 30 C atoms, which may be branched or unbranched, saturated or unsaturated, and wherein the acyl radical and / or the alkyl radical may contain at least one OH group, and

R 2, R 3 and R 4 are each, independently of one another, hydrogen or an alkyl radical having 1 to 4 C

Atoms which may be the same or different, saturated or unsaturated, and

X ^"is an anion and n is an integer between 1 and 10.

The anion is selected from the physiologically acceptable anions. Examples of these are the halide ions, fluoride, chloride, bromide, sulfate of the general formula RSO ₃ ^" , wherein R is the

Meaning of saturated or unsaturated alkyl radicals having 1 to 4 carbon atoms, or anionic organic acid radicals such as maleate, fumarate, oxalate, tartrate, citrate, lactate or acetate.

Preference is given to a composition in which the amine and / or the quaternized amine according to general formulas (Tkat7) and / or (Tkatδ) is an amidoamine and / or a quaternized

Amidoamine is where R1 is a branched or unbranched, saturated or unsaturated

Acyl radical having 6 to 30 carbon atoms, which may contain at least one OH group means.

Preference is given here to a fatty acid radical of oils and waxes, in particular natural

Oils and waxes, is. Examples include lanolin, bees or candellila waxes in

Consideration.

Also preferred are those amidoamines and / or quaternized amidoamines in which R2, R3 and / or R4 in formulas (Tkat7) and / or (Tkatδ) is a radical according to the general formula

CH ₂ CH ₂ OR 5, where R 5 is the meaning of alkyl radicals having 1 to 4 carbon atoms, Hydroxyethyl or hydrogen may have. The preferred size of n in the general formulas (Tkat7) and / or (Tkatδ) is an integer between 2 and 5.

Also preferred are amidoamines and / or quaternized amidoamines of the general formulas (Tkat7) and / or (Tkatδ) in which the anion X ^"is a halide ion or a compound of the general formula RSO ₃ ^" , where R is the meaning of saturated or unsaturated alkyl radicals having 1 to 4 carbon atoms.

The alkyl radical having 1 to 4 carbon atoms of R 2, R 3 and R 4 and / or the alkyl radical having 1 to 4 carbon atoms of RSO ₃ ^" in the general formula (Tkat7) and / or (Tkatδ) may contain at least one hydroxyl group.

The alkylamidoamines can both be present as such and converted by protonation in a correspondingly acidic solution into a quaternary compound in the composition. According to the invention, the cationic alkylamidoamines are preferred. Suitable amidoamines to be used according to the invention, which may optionally be quaternized, are, for example, amidoamines: Witcamine 100 (Witco, INCI name: Cocamidopropyl Dimethylamine), Incromine BB (Croda, INCI name: behenamidopropyl dimethylamine), Mackin 401 (McIntyre, INCI name: isostearylamidopropyl dimethylamine) and other Mackine types, Adogen S1δV (Witco, INCI name: Stearylamidopropyl Dimethylamine), and as permanent cationic aminoamines: Rewoquat RTM 50 (Witco Surfactants GmbH, INCI name: Ricinoleamidopropyltrimonium Methosulfate), Empigen CSC (Albright & Wilson, INCI name: Cocamidopropyltrimonium chloride), Swanol Lanoquat DES-50 (Nikko, INCI name: Quatemium-33), Rewoquat UTM 50 (Witco Surfactants GmbH, Undecyleneamidopropyltrimonium Methosulfate). The amidoamines or quaternized amidoamines according to the general formulas (Tkat7) and (Tkatδ) can be used individually or in any desired combinations with each other, amounts of from 0.01 to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.01 to 10% by weight. and most preferably in amounts of from 0.1 to 7.5% by weight. The very best results are obtained with amounts of from 0.1 to 5% by weight, based in each case on the total composition of the particular agent.

As a further ingredient in addition to the compelling components a) and b), the compositions according to the invention preferably contain at least one silicone polymer selected from the group of dimethiconols and / or the group of amino-functional silicones and / or the group of dimethicones and / or the group of cyclomethicones. These ingredients are described below.

The dimethicones according to the invention can be both linear and branched as well as cyclic or cyclic and branched. Linear dimethicones can be represented by the following structural formula

(Sil) are represented:

(SiR ¹ ₃ ) - O - (SiR ² ₂ - O -) _x - (SiR ¹ ₃ ) (Sil)

Branched dimethicones can be represented by the structural formula (SM .1):

The radicals R ¹ and R ² are each independently hydrogen, a methyl radical, a C ² to C 30 linear, saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon radical, a phenyl radical and / or an aryl radical. Non-limiting examples of the groups represented by R ¹ and R ² include alkyl groups such as methyl, ethyl, propyl, isopropyl, butyl, isobutyl, pentyl, isopentyl, neopentyl, amyl, isoamyl, hexyl, isohexyl and the like; Alkenyl radicals such as vinyl, halovinyl, alkylvinyl, allyl, haloallyl, alkylallyl; Cycloalkyl radicals such as cyclobutyl, cyclopentyl, cyclohexyl and the like; Phenyl radicals, benzyl radicals, halohydrocarbon radicals such as 3-chloropropyl, 4-bromobutyl, 3,3,3-trifluoropropyl, chlorocyclohexyl, bromophenyl, chlorophenyl and the like, and sulfur containing radicals such as mercaptoethyl, mercaptopropyl, mercaptohexyl, mercaptophenyl and the like; Preferably, R ¹ and R ^{2 is} an alkyl radical containing from 1 to about 6 carbon atoms, and most preferably R ¹ and R ^{2 are} methyl. Examples of R ¹ include methylene, ethylene, propylene, hexamethylene, decamethylene, -CH ₂ CH (CH ₃ ) CH ₂ -, phenylene, naphthylene, -CH ₂ CH ₂ SCH ₂ CH ₂ -, -CH ₂ CH ₂ OCH ₂ - , -OCH ₂ CH ₂ -, -OCH ₂ CH ₂ CH ₂ -, -CH ₂ CH (CH ₃ ) C (O) OCH ₂ -, - (CH ₂ ) ₃ CC (O) OCH ₂ CH ₂ -, C ₆ H ₄ C ₆ H ₄ -, -C ₆ H ₄ CH ₂ C ₆ H ₄ -; and - (CH ₂ ) ₃ C (O) SCH ₂ CH ₂ -. Preferred as R ¹ and R ² are methyl, phenyl and C ² to C 22 alkyl radicals. Of the C2 to C22 alkyl radicals, lauryl, stearyl and behenyl radicals are particularly preferred. The numbers x, y and z are integers and each run independently from 0 to 50,000. The molecular weights of Dimethicone lie between 1,000 D and 10000000 D. The viscosities are between 100 and 10,000,000 cPs measured at 25 ⁰ C by means of a glass capillary viscometer according to Dow Corning Corporate Test Method CTM 0004 dated 20 July 1970. Preferred viscosities are 1000-5000000 cPs, most preferred viscosities are between 10,000 and 3,000,000 cps. The most preferred range is between 50,000 and 2,000,000 cps. Most preferred are viscosities around the range of about 60,000 cps. The word "about" defines a deviation from the stated value following the word "about" which is customary in the art for technically manufactured products. By way of example, reference may be made here to the product "Dow Corning 200 with 6000 OcSt." The dimethicones (Sil) are present in the compositions according to the invention in amounts of 0.01 to 10% by weight, preferably 0.01 to 8% by weight, particularly preferably 0 , 1 to 7.5 wt.% And in particular 0.1 to 5 wt.% Based on the total composition. Particularly preferred agents according to the invention contain one or more amino-functional silicones. Such silicones may be represented, for example, by the formula (Si-2)

M (R _a Q _b Si0 ₍₄ - _a - _{b) / 2} ) _x (R _c Si0 ₍₄ - _{c) / 2} ) _y M (Si-2) wherein in the above formula

R is a hydrocarbon or a hydrocarbon radical having from 1 to about 6

Carbon atoms, Q is a polar radical of the general formula -R ¹ HZ, wherein

R ^{1 is} a divalent linking group bonded to hydrogen and the radical Z composed of carbon and hydrogen atoms, carbon, hydrogen and oxygen atoms or carbon, hydrogen and nitrogen atoms, and

Z is an organic, amino-functional group containing at least one amino-functional group; a assumes values in the range of about 0 to about 2, b takes values in the range of about 1 to about 3, a + b is less than or equal to 3, and c is a number in the range of about 1 to about 3, and x a number ranging from 1 to about 2,000, preferably from about 3 to about 50, and most preferably from about 3 to about 25; and y is a number ranging from about 20 to about 10,000, preferably from about 125 to about 10,000 and most preferably from about 150 to about 1000, and M is a suitable silicone end group as known in the art, preferably trimethylsiloxy.

Non-limiting examples of the groups represented by R in formula (Si-2) include alkyl groups such as methyl, ethyl, propyl, isopropyl, isopropyl, butyl, isobutyl, amyl, isoamyl, hexyl, isohexyl and the like; Alkenyl radicals such as vinyl, halovinyl, alkylvinyl, allyl, haloallyl, alkylallyl; Cycloalkyl radicals such as cyclobutyl, cyclopentyl, cyclohexyl and the like; Phenyl radicals, benzyl radicals, halohydrocarbon radicals such as 3-chloropropyl, 4-bromobutyl, 3,3,3-trifluoropropyl, chlorocyclohexyl, bromophenyl, chlorophenyl and the like, and sulfur-containing radicals such as mercaptoethyl, mercaptopropyl, mercaptohexyl, mercaptophenyl and the like; preferably R is an alkyl radical containing from 1 to about 6 carbon atoms, and most preferably R is methyl. Examples of R ¹ include methylene, ethylene, propylene, hexamethylene, decamethylene, - CH ₂ CH (CH ₃ ) CH ₂ -, phenylene, naphthylene, -CH ₂ CH ₂ SCH ₂ CH ₂ -, -CH ₂ CH ₂ OCH ₂ - , -OCH ₂ CH ₂ -, - OCH ₂ CH ₂ CH ₂ -, -CH ₂ CH (CH ₃ ) C (O) OCH ₂ -, - (CHz) ₃ CC (O) OCH ₂ CH ₂ -, -C ₆ H ₄ C ₆ H ₄ -, -C ₆ H ₄ CH ₂ C ₆ H ₄ -; and - (CH ₂ ) ₃ C (O) SCH ₂ CH ₂ -.

Z is according to formula (Si-2) an organic, amino-functional radical containing at least one functional amino group. A possible formula for said Z is NH (CH ₂ ) _Z NH ₂ , where z is a integer greater than or equal to 1. Another possible formula for said Z is -NH (CH ₂ ) _Z (CH ₂ ) _zz NH, wherein both z and zz independently of one another are an integer greater than or equal to 1, this structure comprising diamino ring structures, such as piperazinyl. Said Z is most preferably an -NHCH ₂ CH ₂ NH ₂ radical. Another possible formula for said Z is - N (CH ₂ ) _Z (CH ₂ ) _ZZ NX ₂ or -NX ₂ , wherein each X of X _{2 is} independently selected from the group consisting of hydrogen and alkyl groups of 1 to 12 carbon atoms, and zz is 0. Q according to formula (Si-2) is most preferably a polar amino-functional radical of formula - CH ₂ CH ₂ CH ₂ NH ₂ CH ₂ CH ₂ NH ₂ .

In the formula (Si-2), α assumes values in the range of 0 to 2, b takes values in the range of 2 to 3, a + b is less than or equal to 3, and c is a number in the range of 1 to 3. The molar ratio of the R _a Q _b SiO ₍₄ _{a a} _{b) / 2} units to the R ₀ SiO ₍₄ _{C) / 2} units in formula (Si-2) is in the range of about 1: From 2 to 1: 65, preferably from about 1: 5 to about 1:65, and most preferably from about 1:15 to about 1: 20. If one or more of the above formula (Si-2) silicones are used then the various variable substituents in the above formula may be different for the various silicone components present in the silicone blend.

Preferred cosmetic or dermatological preparations of the invention contain an amino-functional silicone of the formula (Si-3), R _'a G ₃ - _a -Si (OSiG ₂₎ _n - (OSiG _b R' ₂ _ _b) _m -O-SiG ₃ - _a - R _'a (Si-3), wherein means:

G is -H, a phenyl group, -OH, -O-CH ₃ , -CH ₃ , -O-CH ₂ CH ₃ , -CH ₂ CH ₃ , -O-CH ₂ CH ₂ CH ₃ , -C / H ₂ C / H2C / H3, -L) ~ C / H (C / H3) 2) ~ C / H (L / H3) 2 -O ~ _J C / Π2C / H2C / Π2C / H3, -C / H2C / H2C / Π2C / Π3, -O-CH ₂ CH (CH ₃₎ _2, -CH ₂ CH (CHs) _2, -0-CH (CH ₃₎ CH ₂ CH _3, -CH (CH ₃₎ CH ₂ CH _3, - OC (CH ₃ ) ₃ , -C (CH ₃ ) ₃ ; a is a number between 0 and 3, in particular 0; b is a number between 0 and 1, in particular 1, m and n are numbers whose sum (m + n) is between 1 and 2000, preferably between 50 and 150, where n preferably values from 0 to 1999 and in particular from 49 to 149 and m preferably assumes values from 1 to 2000, in particular from 1 to 10,

R ^' is a monovalent radical selected from -QN (R ") - CH ₂ -CH ₂ -N (R") ₂ -QN (R ¹¹ J ₂ -QN ⁺ (R ") ₃ A- -QN ⁺ H (R ") ₂ ^a" QN ⁺ H ₂ (R ") ^a" -QN (R ") - CH ₂ -CH ₂ -N ⁺ R" H ₂ a ^", each Q is a chemical bond, -CH ₂ - , -CH ₂ -CH ₂ -, -CH ₂ CH ₂ CH ₂ -, -C (CHs) ₂ -, -CH ₂ CH ₂ CH ₂ CH ₂ -, -CH ₂ C (CH ₃ ) ₂ -, -CH (CH ₃ ) CH ₂ CH ₂ -, R "represents the same or different radicals from the group -H, -phenyl, -benzyl, -CH ₂ -CH (CH ₃ ) Ph, the Ci_ ₂₀ -alkyl radicals, preferably -CH ₃ , -CH ₂ CH ₃ , -CH ₂ CH ₂ CH ₃ , -CH (CH ₃ ) ₂ , -CH ₂ CH ₂ CH ₂ CH ₃ , -CH ₂ CH (CH ₃ ) ₂ , -CH (CH ₃ ) CH ₂ CH ₃ , -C (CH ₃ J ₃ , and A is an anion which is preferably selected from chloride, bromide, iodide or methosulfate.

Cationic silicone oils, such as the commercially available Dow Corning 929 emulsion (containing a hydroxylamino-modified silicone referred to as amodimethicone), DC 2-2078 (manufacturer Dow Corning, INCI name: Aminopropyl Phenyl Trimethicone), DC 5 are suitable according to the invention -7113 (manufacturer Dow Corning, INCI name: Silicone Quaternium 16), SM-2059 (manufacturer: General Electric) and SLM-55067 (manufacturer: Wacker).

Particularly preferred agents according to the invention are characterized in that they contain at least one amino-functional silicone of the formula (Si 3-a)

in which m and n are numbers whose sum (m + n) is between 1 and 2000, preferably between 50 and 150, where n preferably values of 0 to 1999 and in particular of 49 to 149 and m preferably values of 1 to 2000 , in particular from 1 to 10 assumes. These silicones are referred to as trimethylsilylamodimethicones according to the INCI declaration and are available, for example, under the name Q2-7224 (manufacturer: Dow Corning, a stabilized trimethylsilylamodimethicone).

Particular preference is also given to compositions according to the invention which contain at least one amino-functional silicone of the formula (Si-3b)

contain, in which

R is -OH, a (optionally ethoxylated and / or propoxylated) (Ci to C ₂₀ ) -

Alkoxy group or a -CH ₃ group, R 'is -OH, a (Ci to C ₂₀ ) alkoxy group or a -CH ₃ group and m, n1 and n2 are numbers whose sum (m + n1 + n2) is between 1 and 2000, preferably between 50 and 150, the sum (n1 + n2) preferably having values from 0 to 1999 and in particular from 49 to 149 and m preferably assumes values of from 1 to 2000, in particular from 1 to 10.

These silicones are according to the INCI declaration as amodimethicone, or as functionalized

Amodimethicones, such as bis (C13-15 alkoxy) PG amodimethicones (for example as

Commercial product: DC 8500 from Dow Corning available), Trideceth-9 PG-Amodimethicone

(For example, available as a commercial product Silcare Silicone SEA Clariant).

In addition to the amino-functional silicones described above, preference is given to using amino-functional silicones which are terminated by terminal amino groups, which in turn are particularly preferably quaternary. Excellently suitable are diquaternary silicones. Suitable diquaternary silicones are selected from compounds of the general formula (Si3c)

[R ¹ R ² R ³ N ⁺ -A-SiR ⁷ R ⁸ - (O-SiR ⁹ R ¹⁰ ) _n -O-SiR ¹¹ R ¹² -A-N ⁺ R ⁴ R ⁵ R ⁶ ] 2X ^" (Si 3c) where R 1 to R 6 independently of one another are C 1 to C 22 -alkyl radicals, which

Preferably at least one of the radicals has at least 8 carbon atoms and the other radicals have 1 to 4 carbon atoms, the radicals R 7 to R 12 are identical or different and independently of one another and are C 1 - to C 10 -alkyl or phenyl,

A is a divalent organic linking group, n is a number from 0 to 200, preferably from 10 to 120, particularly preferably from 10 to 40, and

X ^"is an anion.

The divalent linking group is preferably a C1 to C12 alkylene or

Alkoxyalkylene group which may be substituted with one or more hydroxyl groups.

Particularly preferred is the group - (CH ₂ ) _S -O-CH ₂ -CH (OH) -CH ₂ -.

The anion X ^' can be a halide ion, an acetate, an organic carboxylate or a

Compound of the general formula RSO ₃ ^" , wherein R is the meaning of C1 to C4

Has alkyl radicals.

A preferred diquaternary silicone has the general formula (Si3d)

[RN ⁺ Me ₂ -A- (SiMe ₂ O) _n -SiMe ₂ -A-N ⁺ Me ₂ R] 2 CH ₃ COO ^" (Si 3d), where A is the group - (CH ₂ ) ₃ -O-CH ₂ - CH (OH) - CH ₂ -ist,

R is an alkyl radical having at least 8 C atoms and n is a number from 10 to 120.

Suitable silicone polymers having two terminal quaternary ammonium groups are known under the INCI name Quaternium-80. These are dimethylsiloxanes with two terminal trialkylammonium groups. Such diquaternary polydimethylsiloxanes are marketed by Evonik under the trade names Abil ^® Quat 3270, 3272 and 3474th Cosmetic or dermatological preparations preferred according to the invention are characterized in that, based on their weight, they contain 0.01 to 10% by weight, preferably 0.01 to 8% by weight, particularly preferably 0.1 to 7.5% by weight and in particular from 0.2 to 5% by weight of amino-functional silicone (s) and / or diquaternary silicone.

The cyclic dimethicones designated as cyclomethicones according to INCI are also preferably used according to the invention. Here, cosmetic or dermatological preparations according to the invention are preferred which contain at least one silicone of the formula (Si-4)

in which x is a number from 3 to 200, preferably from 3 to 10, more preferably from 3 to 7 and in particular 3, 4, 5 or 6 stands.

Agents which are likewise preferred according to the invention are characterized in that they contain at least one silicone of the formula (Si-5)

R _{3 is} Si [O-SiR 2] χ- (CH ₂ ) _n - [O-SiR ₂ ] _y -O-SiR 3 (Si-5), in which R is identical or different radicals from the group -H, Phenyl, benzyl, -CH ₂ -CH (CH ₃ ) Ph, the d. ₂₀ -alkyl radicals, preferably -CH ₃ , -CH ₂ CH ₃ , -CH ₂ CH ₂ CH ₃ , -CH (CH ₃ ) ₂ , -CH ₂ CH ₂ CH ₂ H ₃ , -CH ₂ CH (CH ₃ ) ₂ , -CH (CH ₃ ) CH ₂ CH ₃ , -C (CH ₃ ) ₃ , x or y is a number from 0 to 200, preferably from 0 to 10, more preferably from 0 to 7 and in particular 0, 1, 2, 3, 4, 5 or 6, and n is a number from 0 to 10, preferably from 1 to 8 and especially for 2, 3, 4, 5, 6.

As further silicones in addition to the dimethicones, dimethiconols, amodimethicones and / or cyclomethicones according to the invention, water-soluble silicones can be present in the compositions according to the invention.

With preference, these additional silicones are water-soluble.

Corresponding hydrophilic silicones are, for example, from the compounds of the formulas

(Si-6) and / or (Si-7). Particularly preferred water-soluble surfactants

Silicone base are selected from the group of dimethicone copolyols which are preferably alkoxylated, in particular polyethoxylated or polypropoxylated.

Dimethicone copolyols according to the invention are preferably polyoxyalkylene-modified

Dimethylpolysiloxanes of the general formulas (Si-6) or (Si-7) understood:

O) _b -R (Si-6)

R ¹ - Si- ^■ [OSi (CH ₃₎ _2] _x - (OC ₂ H ₄₎ _a - (OC ₃ H ₆₎ _b -OR "

(Si-7) where the radical R is a hydrogen atom, an alkyl group having 1 to 12 C atoms, an alkoxy group having 1 to 12 C atoms or a hydroxyl group, the radicals R 'and R "are alkyl groups having 1 to 12 C atoms, x is an integer from 1 to 100, preferably from 20 to 30, y is an integer from 1 to 20, preferably from 2 to 10 and a and b are integers from 0 to 50, preferably from 10 to 30.

Particularly preferred dimethicone copolyols according to the invention are, for example, the products sold commercially under the trade name SILWET (Union Carbide Corporation) and DOW CORNING (Dow).

Dimethicone copolyols particularly preferred according to the invention are Dow Corning 190 and Dow Corning 193 (Dow).

The dimethicone copolyols are present in the compositions according to the invention in amounts of from 0.01 to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.01 to 8% by weight, more preferably from 0.1 to 7.5% by weight and in particular from 0.1 to 5% by weight. % of dimethicone copolyol based on the composition. Finally, among the silicone compounds Dimethiconole (Si8) understood. Dimethiconols form a further group of silicones which are particularly preferred according to the invention. The dimethiconols according to the invention can be both linear and branched as well as cyclic or cyclic and branched. Linear dimethiconols can be represented by the following structural formula (Si8 - I): (SiOHR ¹ ₂ ) - O - (SiR ² ₂ - O -) _x - (SiOHR ¹ ₂ ) (Si 8 - I) Branched dimethiconols can be represented by the structural formula ( Si8 - II) are shown:

The radicals R ¹ and R ² are each independently hydrogen, a methyl radical, a C ² to C 30 linear, saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon radical, a phenyl radical and / or an aryl radical. Non-limiting examples of the groups represented by R ¹ and R ² include alkyl groups such as methyl, ethyl, propyl, isopropyl, butyl, isobutyl, pentyl, isopentyl, neopentyl, amyl, isoamyl, hexyl, isohexyl and the like; Alkenyl radicals such as vinyl, halovinyl, alkylvinyl, allyl, haloallyl, alkylallyl; Cycloalkyl radicals such as cyclobutyl, cyclopentyl, cyclohexyl and the like; Phenyl radicals, benzyl radicals, halohydrocarbon radicals such as 3-chloropropyl, 4-bromobutyl, 3,3,3-trifluoropropyl, chlorocyclohexyl, bromophenyl, chlorophenyl and the like, and sulfur containing radicals such as mercaptoethyl, mercaptopropyl, mercaptohexyl, mercaptophenyl and the like; Preferably, R ¹ and R ^{2 is} an alkyl radical containing from 1 to about 6 carbon atoms, and most preferably R ¹ and R ^{2 are} methyl. Examples of R ¹ include methylene, ethylene, propylene, hexamethylene, decamethylene, -CH ₂ CH (CH ₃ ) CH ₂ -, phenylene, naphthylene, -CH ₂ CH ₂ SCH ₂ CH ₂ -, -CH ₂ CH ₂ OCH ₂ - , -OCH ₂ CH ₂ -, -OCH ₂ CH ₂ CH ₂ -, -CH ₂ CH (CH ₃ ) C (O) OCH ₂ -, - (CH ₂ ) ₃ CC (O) OCH ₂ CH ₂ -, C ₆ H ₄ C ₆ H ₄ -, -C ₆ H ₄ CH ₂ C ₆ H ₄ -; and - (CH ₂ ) ₃ C (O) SCH ₂ CH ₂ -. Preferred as R ¹ and R ² are methyl, phenyl and C ² to C 22 alkyl radicals. Of the C2 to C22 alkyl radicals, lauryl, stearyl and behenyl radicals are particularly preferred. The numbers x, y and z are integers and each run independently from 0 to 50,000. The molecular weights of the dimethiconols are between 1,000 D and 10000000 D. The viscosities are between 100 and 10,000,000 cPs measured at 25 ⁰ C by means of a glass capillary viscometer according to Dow Corning Corporate Test Method CTM 0004 dated 20 July 1970. Preferred viscosities are from 1000 to 5,000,000 cPs, most preferred viscosities are between 10,000 and 3,000,000 cps. The most preferred range is between 50,000 and 2,000,000 cps.

Examples of such products include the following commercial products: Botanisil NU-150M (Botanigenics), Dow Coming 1-1254 Fluid, Dow Corning 2-9023 Fluid, Dow Corning 2-9026 Fluid, Ultrapure Dimethiconol (Ultra Chemical), Unisil SF- R (Universal Preserve), X-21-5619 (Shin-Etsu Chemical Co.), Abil OSW 5 (Degussa Care Speciales), ACC DL-9430 Emulsion (Taylor Chemical Company), AEC Dimethiconol & Sodium Dodecylbenzenesulfonate (A & E Connock (Perfumery & Cosmetics) Ltd.), BC Dimethiconol Emulsion 95 (Basildon Chemical Company, Ltd.), Cosmetic Fluid 1401, Cosmetic Fluid 1403, Cosmetic Fluid 1501, Cosmetic Fluid 1401 DC (all aforementioned Chemsil Silicones, Inc.), Dow Corning 1401 Fluid, Dow Corning 1403 Fluid, Dow Corning 1501 Fluid, Dow Corning 1784 HVF Emulsion, Dow Corning 9546 Silicone Elastomer Blend (all aforementioned Dow Corning Corporation), Dub Gel Sl 1400 (Stearinerie Dubois FiIs), HVM 4852 Emulsion (Crompton Corporation), Jeesilc 6056 ( Jeen International Corporation), Lubrasil, Lubrasil DS (both Guardian Laboratories), Nonychosine E, Nonychosine V (both exsymol), SanSurf Petrolatum-25, Satin Finish (both Collaborative Laboratories, Inc.), Silatex-D30 (Cosmetic Ingredient Resources), Silsoft 148, Silsoft E-50, Silsoft E-623 (all previously mentioned Crompton Corporation), SM555, SM2725, SM2765, SM2785 (all GE Silicones mentioned above), Taylor T-SiI CD-1, Taylor TME-4050E (all Taylor Chemical Company), TH V 148 (Crompton Corporation), Tixogel CYD-1429 (Sud-Chemie Performance Additives), Wacker-Belsil CM 1000, Wacker-Belsil CM 3092, Wacker-Belsil CM 5040, Wacker-Belsil DM 3096, Wacker Belsil DM 3112 VP, Wacker-Belsil DM 8005 VP, Wacker-Belsil DM 60081 VP (all to aforementioned Wacker-Chemie GmbH).

The dimethiconols (Si8) are present in the compositions according to the invention in amounts of from 0.01 to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.01 to 8% by weight, particularly preferably from 0.1 to 7.5% by weight and in particular from 0.1 to 5% by weight of dimethiconol based on the composition.

Furthermore, cosmetic oils can additionally be used in the active ingredient combination (A) according to the invention. Preferably, these oil bodies have a melting point of less than 50 ⁰ C, more preferably less than 45 ⁰ C, most preferably less than 40 ⁰ C, most preferably less than 35 ⁰ C and most preferably the cosmetic oils in a

Temperature less than 30 ⁰ C flowable. In the following, these oils are defined and described in more detail.

Examples of natural and synthetic cosmetic oils include: vegetable oils. Examples of such oils are sunflower oil, olive oil, soybean oil, rapeseed oil, almond oil, jojoba oil, orange oil, wheat germ oil, peach kernel oil and the liquid portions of coconut oil. Also suitable, however, are other triglyceride oils such as the liquid portions of beef tallow as well as synthetic triglyceride oils. liquid paraffin oils, isoparaffin oils and synthetic hydrocarbons and di-n-alkyl ethers having a total of from 12 to 36 carbon atoms, in particular 12 to 24 carbon atoms, such as di-n-octyl ether, di-n-decyl ether, di-n-nonyl ether Di-n-undecyl ether, di-n-dodecyl ether, n-hexyl n-octyl ether, n-octyl n-decyl ether, n-decyl n-undecyl ether, n-undecyl n-dodecyl ether and n-hexyl-n Undecyl ether and di-tert-butyl ether, di-iso-pentyl ether, di-3-ethyldecyl ether, tert-butyl-n-octyl ether, iso-pentyl-n-octyl ether and 2-methyl-pentyl-n-octyl ether. The compounds are available as commercial products 1, 3-di- (2-ethyl-hexyl) - cyclohexane (Cetiol ^® S), and di-n-octyl ether (Cetiol ^® OE) may be preferred.

Esteröle. Ester oils are to be understood as meaning the esters of C ₆ - C ₃₀ fatty acids with C ₂ - C ₃₀ fatty alcohols. The monoesters of the fatty acids are preferably alcohols having 2 to 24 C Atoms. Examples of fatty acid components used in the esters are caproic, caprylic, 2-ethylhexanoic, capric, lauric, isotridecanoic, myristic, palmitic, palmitoleic, stearic, isostearic, oleic, elaidic, petroselic, linoleic, linolenic Behenic acid and erucic acid. Examples of the fatty alcohol components in the ester oils are isopropyl alcohol, caproic alcohol, capryl alcohol, 2-ethylhexyl alcohol, capric alcohol, lauryl alcohol, isotridecyl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, palmoleyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, elaidyl alcohol, petroselinyl alcohol, linolyl alcohol, linolenyl alcohol, elaeostearyl alcohol, arachyl alcohol, Gadoleyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, erucyl alcohol and brassidyl alcohol. According to the invention, particularly preferred are isopropyl myristate (IPM Rilanit ^®), isononanoic acid C16-18 alkyl ester (Cetiol ^® SN), 2-ethylhexyl palmitate (Cegesoft ^® 24), stearic acid-2-ethylhexyl ester (Cetiol ^® 868), cetyl oleate, glycerol tricaprylate, Kokosfettalkohol- caprate / caprylate (Cetiol ^® LC), n-butyl stearate, oleyl erucate (Cetiol ^® J 600), isopropyl palmitate (IPP Rilanit ^®), oleyl Oleate (Cetiol ^®), hexyl laurate (Cetiol ^® A), di-n-butyl adipate (Cetiol ^® B), myristyl myristate (Cetiol ^® MM), cetearyl isononanoate (Cetiol ^® SN), oleic acid decyl ester (Cetiol ^® V).

Dicarboxylic acid esters such as di-n-butyl adipate, di- (2-ethylhexyl) adipate, di- (2-ethylhexyl) succinate and di-isotridecyl acelate, and diol esters such as ethylene glycol dioleate, ethylene glycol diisotridecanoate, propylene glycol di (2- ethylhexanoate), propylene glycol diisostearate,

Propylene glycol di-pelargonate, butanediol diisostearate, neopentyl glycol dicaprylate, symmetrical, asymmetrical or cyclic esters of carbonic acid with fatty alcohols, glycerol carbonate or dicaprylyl carbonate (Cetiol ^® CC),

Trifatty acid esters of saturated and / or unsaturated linear and / or branched fatty acids with glycerol,

Fatty acid partial glycerides, ie monoglycerides, diglycerides and their technical mixtures. With the use of technical products production reasons may still contain small amounts of triglycerides. The partial glycerides preferably follow the formula (D4-I),

CH ₂ O (CH ₂ CH ₂ O) _m R ¹

CHO (CH ₂ CH ₂ O) _n R ² (D4-I)

CH ₂ O (CH ₂ CH ₂ O) _q R ³ in the R ¹ , R ² and R ^{3 is} independently of one another hydrogen or a linear or branched, saturated and / or unsaturated acyl radical having 6 to 22, preferably 12 to 18, Carbon atoms are provided with the proviso that at least one of these groups is an acyl radical and at least one of these groups is hydrogen. The sum (m + n + q) is 0 or numbers from 1 to 100, preferably 0 or 5 to 25. Preferably, R ^{1 is} an acyl radical and R ² and R ^{3 are} hydrogen and the sum (m + n + q) is 0. Typical examples are mono- and / or diglycerides based on caproic, caprylic, 2-ethylhexanoic, capric, lauric, isotridecanoic, myristic, palmitic, palmitic, stearic, isostearic, oleic, elaidic, petroselic, linoleic, linolenic , Elaeostearic acid, arachidic acid, gadoleic acid, behenic acid and erucic acid. Preferably, oleic acid monoglycerides are used.

Natural oils include, for example, amaranth seed oil, apricot kernel oil, argan oil, avocado oil, babassu oil, cottonseed oil, borage seed oil, camelina oil, thistle oil, peanut oil, pomegranate seed oil, grapefruit seed oil, hemp oil, hazelnut oil, elderflower seed oil, currant seed oil, jojoba oil, cocoa butter, linseed oil, macadamia nut oil, corn oil, almond oil, marula oil , Evening primrose oil, olive oil, palm oil, rapeseed oil, rice oil, sea buckthorn fruit oil, sea buckthorn seed oil, sesame oil, shea butter, soybean oil, sunflower oil, grape seed oil, walnut oil or wild rose oil.

In many cases, the agents contain at least one surface-active substance, with both anionic and zwitterionic, ampholytic, nonionic and cationic surface-active substances being suitable in principle. The choice of surfactants depends on the nature of the agent. In the case of a shampoo, in particular at least one surfactant is selected from the group of anionic, zwitterionic or nonionic surface-active substances. It is preferred here that at least one anionic and at least one zwitterionic surface-active substance is chosen. These surface-active substances are particularly preferably selected from the group of particularly mild surface-active substances. In many cases, however, it has proved to be advantageous to select the surfactants from anionic, zwitterionic or nonionic surfactants. The ratio between anionic and zwitterionic surface-active substances is between 10: 1 and 1: 5. The ratio is particularly preferably 5: 1 to 1: 2.

Suitable anionic surfactants (tanion) in preparations according to the invention are all anionic surfactants suitable for use on the human body. In the compositions according to the invention it is particularly advantageous if mild anionic surfactants are used as anionic surfactants. The following anionic surfactants are particularly preferred according to the invention:

Acyl lactylates, hydroxy mixed ether sulfates,

Ethercarbonsäuren the formula RO- (CH ₂ -CH ₂ O) _x -CH ₂ -COOH, in which R is a linear alkyl group having 8 to 30 carbon atoms and x = 0 or 1 to 16 and their salts,

Acylsarcosides having 8 to 24 C atoms in the acyl group, acyl taurides having 8 to 24 C atoms in the acyl group, Acyl isethionates having 8 to 24 carbon atoms in the acyl group,

Sulfobernsteinsäuremono- and dialkyl esters having 8 to 24 carbon atoms in the alkyl group and sulfosuccinic monoalkylpolyoxyethylester having 8 to 24 carbon atoms in the alkyl group and 1 to 6 oxyethyl groups.

Alkylpolyglykolethersulfate of the formula RO (CH ₂ -CH ₂ O) _x -OSO ₃ H, in which R is a preferably linear alkyl group having 8 to 30 carbon atoms and x = 0 or 1 to 12,

Esters of tartaric acid and citric acid with alcohols which are adducts of about 2-15 molecules of ethylene oxide and / or propylene oxide with fatty alcohols having 8 to 22 C atoms,

Alkyl and / or alkenyl ether phosphates of the formula, R ¹ (OCH ₂ CH ₂ ) _n -O- (PO-OX) -OR ² , in which R ^{1 is} preferably an aliphatic hydrocarbon radical having 8 to 30 carbon atoms, R ^{2 is} hydrogen , a radical (CH ₂ CH ₂ O) _n R ² or X, n is from 1 to 10 and X is hydrogen, an alkali or alkaline earth metal or NR ³ R ⁴ R ⁵ R ⁶ , with R ³ to R ⁶ independently standing one another for hydrogen or a C ₁ - to C ₄ -hydrocarbon radical,

Monoglyceride sulfates and monoglyceride ether sulfates of the formula

ROC- (OCH ₂ CH ₂ ) _x -OCH ₂ - [CHO (CH ₂ CH ₂ O) _y H] -CH ₂ O (CH ₂ CH ₂ O) _z -SO ₃ X in which RCO is a linear or branched one Acyl radical having 6 to 22 carbon atoms, x, y and z in total for 0 or for numbers from 1 to 30, preferably 2 to 10, and X stands for an alkali or alkaline earth metal. Typical examples of monoglyceride (ether) sulfates suitable for the purposes of the invention are the reaction products of lauric acid monoglyceride, coconut fatty acid monoglyceride, palmitic acid monoglyceride, stearic acid monoglyceride, oleic acid monoglyceride and tallow fatty acid monoglyceride and their ethylene oxide adducts with sulfur trioxide or chlorosulfonic acid in the form of their sodium salts. Preferably used are monoglyceride sulfates in which RCO is a linear acyl radical having 8 to 18 carbon atoms, amide ether carboxylic acids, R ¹ -CO-NR ² -CH ₂ CH ₂ -O- (CH ₂ CH ₂ O) _n CH ₂ COOM, with R ^{1 is} a straight-chain or branched alkyl or alkenyl radical having a number of carbon atoms in the chain of 2 to 30, n is an integer from 1 to 20 and R ² is hydrogen, a methyl, ethyl, propyl, isopropyl -, n-butyl, t-butyl or iso-butyl radical and M is hydrogen or a metal such as alkali metal, in particular sodium, potassium, lithium, alkaline earth metal, in particular magnesium, calcium, zinc, or an ammonium ion, such as ⁺ NR ³ R ⁴ R ⁵ R ⁶ , with R ³ to R ⁶ independently of one another represent hydrogen or a C ¹ to C ⁴ hydrocarbon radical. Such products are available, for example, by the company Chem Y under the product Akypo ^®. Condensation products of a water-soluble salt of a water-soluble protein hydrolyzate with a suitable C8 - C30 fatty acid derivative, for example a fatty acid halide. Such products are available under the trademark Lamepon® ^®, Maypon ^®, Gluadin® ^®, Hostapon® ^® KCG or Amisoft ^® has long been in the trade,

Acylglutamates and

Aspartates.

If the mild anionic surfactants contain polyglycol ether chains, it is particularly preferred that they have a narrow homolog distribution. Also, in the case of mild anionic surfactants having polyglycol ether units, it is preferred that the number of glycol ether groups is 1 to 20, preferably 2 to 15, more preferably 2 to 12. Particularly mild anionic surfactants having polyglycol ether without restricted homologue distribution may for example be obtained even if the one hand, the number of polyglycol ether amounts to 4 to 12 and are chosen as a counter ion Zn or Mg ions. Examples of these are the commercial product Texapon ASV ^®.

Zwitterionic surfactants (tweets) are those surface-active compounds which carry at least one quaternary ammonium group and at least one -COO ⁽⁾ or -SO ₃ '^"' group in the molecule. Alkyl-N, N-dimethylammonium glycinates, for example, the cocoalkyl-di-methylammoniumglycinat, N-acyl-aminopropyl-N, N-dimethylammoniumglycinate, for example Kokosacylaminopropyl-dimethylammoniumglycinat, and 2-alkyl-3-carboxymethyl-3-hydroxyethyl-imidazoline each having 8 to 18 carbon atoms in the alkyl or acyl group and the Kokosacylaminoethylhydroxyethylcarboxymethylglycinat.A preferred zwitterionic surfactant is known under the INCI name Cocamidopropyl Betaine fatty acid amide derivative.

Ampholytic surfactants (tampho) are understood as meaning those surface-active compounds which contain, in addition to a C ₈ _{-C 2 -alkyl} or -acyl group in the molecule, at least one free amino group and at least one -COOH or -SO ₃ H group and for the formation of internal Salts are capable. Examples of suitable ampholytic surfactants are N-alkylglycines, N-alkylpropionic acids, N-alkylaminobutyric acids, N-alkyliminodipropionic acids, N-hydroxyethyl-N-alkylamidopropylglycines, N-alkyltaurines, N-alkylsarcosines, 2-alkylaminopropionic acids and alkylaminoacetic acids each having about 8 to 24 C Atoms in the alkyl group. Typical examples of amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants are alkylbetaines, alkylamidobetaines, aminopropionates, aminoglycinates, imidazolinium betaines and sulfobetaines.

Particularly preferred ampholytic surfactants are N-cocoalkylaminopropionate, acylaminoethylaminopropionat the coconut and the C ₂ - C ₈ - sarcosine. Nonionic surfactants (Tnio) contain, for example, a polyol group, a polyalkylene glycol ether group or a combination of polyol and polyglycol ether group as the hydrophilic group. Such compounds are, for example

Addition products of 2 to 50 moles of ethylene oxide and / or 0 to 5 moles of propylene oxide onto linear and branched fatty alcohols having 6 to 30 carbon atoms, the fatty alcohol polyglycol ethers or the fatty alcohol polypropyleneglycol ethers or mixed fatty alcohol polyethers,

Addition products of 2 to 50 moles of ethylene oxide and / or 0 to 5 moles of propylene oxide to linear and branched fatty acids having 6 to 30 carbon atoms, the fatty acid polyglycol ethers or the Fettsäurepolypropylenglykolether or mixed fatty acid polyethers,

Addition products of 2 to 50 moles of ethylene oxide and / or 0 to 5 moles of propylene oxide to linear and branched alkylphenols having 8 to 15 carbon atoms in the alkyl group, the Alkylphenolpolyglykolether or the Alkylpolypropylenglykolether, or mixed Alyklphenolpolyether, with a methyl or C ₂ - C ₆ - Alkylrest endgruppenverschlossene addition products of 2 to 50 moles of ethylene oxide and / or 0 to 5 moles of propylene oxide to linear and branched fatty alcohols having 8 to 30 carbon atoms, to fatty acids having 8 to 30 carbon atoms and to alkylphenols having 8 to 15 carbon atoms in the alkyl group, such as those available under the trade names Dehydol ^® LS, LT Dehydol ^® types (Cognis),

C ₂ -C ₃ o-fatty acid mono- and diesters of addition products of 1 to 30 mol ethylene oxide onto glycerol,

Addition products of 5 to 60 moles of ethylene oxide with castor oil and hydrogenated castor oil,

Polyol fatty acid esters, such as the commercially available product ^® Hydagen HSP (Cognis) or Sovermol ^® - types (Cognis), alkoxylated triglycerides, alkoxylated fatty acid alkyl esters of formula (Tnio-1)

R ¹ CO- (OCH ₂ CHR ² ) _W OR ³ (Tnio-1) in the R ¹ CO for a linear or branched, saturated and / or unsaturated acyl radical having 6 to 22 carbon atoms, R ^{2 is} hydrogen or methyl, R ³ is linear or branched alkyl radicals having 1 to 4 carbon atoms and w is numbers from 1 to 20,

Amine oxides,

Hydroxymix ethers, as described for example in DE-OS 19738866,

Sorbitan fatty acid esters and adducts of ethylene oxide with sorbitan fatty acid esters such as the polysorbates, Sugar fatty acid esters and addition products of ethylene oxide with sugar fatty acid esters, addition products of ethylene oxide onto fatty acid alkanolamides and fatty amines,

Sugar surfactants of the alkyl and alkenyl oligoglycoside type of formula (E4-II),

in which R ^{4 is} an alkyl or alkenyl radical having 4 to 22 carbon atoms, G is a sugar radical having 5 or 6 carbon atoms and p is a number from 1 to 10.

Sugar surfactants of the fatty acid N-alkylpolyhydroxyalkylamide type, a nonionic surfactant of the formula (Tnio-3),

R ⁵ CO-NR ⁶ - [Z] (Tnio-3) in the R ⁵ CO for an aliphatic acyl radical having 6 to 22 carbon atoms, R ^{6 is} hydrogen, an alkyl or hydroxyalkyl radical having 1 to 4 carbon atoms and [Z] a linear or branched polyhydroxyalkyl having 3 to 12 carbon atoms and 3 to 10 hydroxyl groups.

A very particularly preferred embodiment contains, in addition to the obligatory ingredients and in addition to the already described as further particularly preferred amines and / or cationized amines, in particular the amidoamines and / or cationized amidoamines additionally at least one further cationic compound. This cationic compound can be a cationic surfactant and / or a cationic polymer or at least one cationic surfactant and one cationic polymer. Cationic in the sense of the invention in this embodiment is also to be understood as an amphoteric polymer. For the description and definition of both the other cationic surfactants and the cationic and / or amphoteric polymers will be discussed in the following description at a given place.

Cationic surfactants (Tkat) are generally derived from ammonium ions and have a

structure

(NR ¹ R ² R ³ RV A ^~ (Tkati) with a corresponding negatively charged counterion A. Such cationic

Ammonium compounds are well known to those skilled in the art. The radicals R 1 to R 4 may each independently of one another comprise straight-chain, branched, cyclic, aromatic saturated or unsaturated alkyl and / or alkenyl chains having at least 1 to 30 carbon atoms,

Hydrogen, -OH or hydroxyethyl mean.

Further cationic surfactants are, for example, the esterquats. Cationic surfactants (Tkat) of the quaternary type are particularly preferably usable according to the invention

Ammonium compounds, the ester quats. Preferred quaternary ammonium compounds are ammonium halides, in particular chlorides and bromides, such as dialkyldimethylammonium chlorides and trialkylmethylammonium chlorides, for example distearyldimethylammonium chloride, lauryldimethylammonium chloride, lauryldimethylbenzylammonium chloride and tricetylmethylammonium chloride, and the imidazolium compounds known under the INCI names Quaternium-27 and Quaternium-83. According to the invention, cationic compounds having at least two behenyl radicals are particularly preferably usable. Commercially available, these substances are, for example, under the designations Genamin ^® KDMP (Clariant).

Esterquats are known substances which contain both at least one ester function and at least one quaternary ammonium group as a structural element. Preferred ester quats are quaternized ester salts of fatty acids with triethanolamine, quaternized ester salts of fatty acids with diethanolalkylamines and quaternized ester salts of fatty acids with 1,2-dihydroxypropyldialkylamines. Such products are marketed under the trade names Stepantex® ^®, ^® and Dehyquart® Armocare® ^®. The products Armocare ^® VGH-70, a N, N-bis (2-palmitoyloxyethyl) dimethylammonium chloride, as well as Dehyquart ^® F-75, Dehyquart ^® C-4046, Dehyquart ^® L80 and Dehyquart ^® AU-35 are examples of such esterquats ,

Another example of a suitable cationic surfactant, quaternary sugar derivative is the commercially available product Glucquat ^® 100 is, according to INCI nomenclature a "lauryl methyl Gluceth-10

Hydroxypropyl Dimonium Chloride ".

Finally, cationic surfactants of the present invention are also cationic

Compounds of the following general structure understood:

RCO-XN ⁺ R ¹ R ² R ³ R ⁴ A ^" (Tkat-2)

R here stands for a substituted or unsubstituted, branched or straight-chain alkyl or alkenyl radical having 11 to 35 carbon atoms in the chain,

X is - O - or - NR ⁵ -,

R ¹ represents an alkylene group having 2 to 6 C atoms, which may be unsubstituted or substituted, in which case substitution with an -OH or -NH group is preferred in the case of a substitution,

R ² , R ³ and R ⁴ each independently represent an alkyl or hydroxyalkyl group

1 to 6 C atoms in the chain, which chain may be straight or branched. Examples of radicals according to the invention are methyl, ethyl, propyl, isopropyl, butyl, isobutyl, tert-butyl,

Pentyl, iso-pentyl, neo-pentyl, hexyl, iso-hexyl, hydroxyalkyl, dihydroxyalkyl, hydroxyethyl,

Hydroxypropyl, dihydroxypropyl, hydroxybutyl, dihydroxybutyl, trihydroxybutyl, trihydroxypropyl,

dihydroxyethyl,

R5 is hydrogen or a C1 to C6 straight or branched alkyl or

Alkenyl radical, which may also be substituted by a hydroxy group, especially methyl,

Ethyl, propyl, isopropyl, butyl, isobutyl, tert-butyl, pentyl, isopentyl, neopentyl, hexyl, iso-butyl Hexyl, hydroxyethyl, hydroxypropyl, dihydroxypropyl, hydroxybutyl, dihydroxybutyl,

Trihydroxybutyl, trihydroxypropyl, dihydroxyethyl and

A ^" represents a halide such as fluoride, chloride or bromide, an alkyl sulfate such as a methosulfate or ethosulfate, a phosphate, a citrate, tartrate, maleate or fumarate

Within this structural class, the compounds are preferably one of the following

Structures used:

CH ₃ (CH ₂₎ ₂ OCONH (CH ₂₎ ₃ - N ⁺ (CHs) ₂ -CH ₂ CH ₃ A ^"(Tkat-3)

CH ₃ (CH ₂ ) ₂₀ CONH (CH ₂ ) ₃ - N ⁺ (CH ₃ ) ₂ -CH ₂ (CHOH) CH ₂ OH A ^" (Tkat-4)

CH ₃ (CH 2) ₂₀ COOCH ₂ CHOHCH ₂ - N ⁺ (CH ₃ ) ₃ A ^" (Tkat-5)

CH ₃ (CH ₂ ) ₂₀ CONH (CH ₂ ) ₃ - N ⁺ (CH ₃ ) ₂ -CH ₂ CH ₂ OH A ^" (Tkat-6)

Examples of such commercial products are Schercoquat BAS, Lexquat AMG-BEO, Akypoquat

131 or Incroquat Behenyl HE.

The cationic surfactants (Tkat) are preferably used in the compositions according to the invention

Amounts of 0.05 to 10 wt .-%, based on the total agent included. Amounts of 0.1 to

5 wt .-% are particularly preferred.

Of course, it is also preferable in the case of the cationic surfactants to select mild cationic surfactants. The corresponding mild cationic surfactants include in particular alkylamidoamines, quaternized amidoamines, esterquats, cationic

Surfactants of the formula (Tkat-2) and cationic surfactants having at least one behenyl radical in the

Molecule.

The surfactants (T) are used in amounts of 0.05-45% by weight, preferably 0.1-30% by weight and very particularly preferably 0.5-25% by weight, based on the total agent used according to the invention ,

Emulsifiers which can be used according to the invention are, for example

Addition products of 4 to 30 moles of ethylene oxide and / or 0 to 5 moles of propylene oxide to linear fatty alcohols having 8 to 22 carbon atoms, to fatty acids having 12 to 22 carbon atoms and to alkylphenols having 8 to 15 carbon atoms in the alkyl group,

C ₁₂ -C ₂₂ fatty acid mono- and diesters of addition products of from 1 to 30 moles of ethylene oxide onto polyols having from 3 to 6 carbon atoms, in particular to glycerol,

Ethylene oxide and polyglycerol addition products to methyl glucoside fatty acid esters, fatty acid alkanolamides and fatty acid glucamides,

C ₈ -C ₂₂ -alkylmono- and -oligoglycosides and their ethoxylated analogues, where C ¹ degrees of gyration of from 1.1 to 5, in particular 1.2 to 2.0, and glucose as sugar component are preferred, Glucosides mixtures of alkyl (oligo) and fatty alcohols, for example, the commercially available product ^® Montanov 68,

Partial esters of polyols having 3-6 carbon atoms with saturated fatty acids having 8 to 22 carbon atoms,

Sterols. Examples of zoosterols are cholesterol and lanosterol. Examples of suitable phytosterols are ergosterol, stigmasterol and sitosterol. Examples of mushrooms and yeasts are mycosterols.

Phospholipids, e.g. Lecithins or phosphatidylcholines from egg yolk or plant seeds (e.g., soybeans).

Fatty acid esters of sugars and sugar alcohols, such as sorbitol,

Polyglycerols and polyglycerol derivatives such as polyglycerol poly-12-hydroxystearate (commercial product Dehymuls ^® PGPH),

Linear and branched fatty acids with 8 to 30 C atoms and their Na, K, ammonium,

Ca, Mg and Zn salts.

The agents according to the invention preferably contain the emulsifiers in amounts of 0.1-25% by weight, in particular 0.5-15% by weight, based on the total agent.

Very particularly cationic and / or amphoteric and / or zwitterionic polymers are used as further ingredients in the compositions according to the invention. Here, nonionic polymers are also considered.

Preferred cationic groups are quaternary ammonium groups. In particular, those polymers in which the quaternary ammonium group is bonded via a C 1-4 hydrocarbon group to a polymer main chain constructed from acrylic acid, methacrylic acid or derivatives thereof have proven to be particularly suitable.

Suitable polymers having quaternary amine groups are, for example, the polymers described in the CTFA Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary under the names Polyquaternium, such as methylvinylimidazolium chloride / inylpyrrolidone copolymer (Polyquaternium-16) or quaternized vinylpyrrolidone / dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate copolymer (Polyquaternium-11). A particularly suitable homopolymer is the optionally crosslinked, poly (methacryloyloxyethyltrimethylammonium chloride) with the INCI name Polyquaternium 37. Such products are, for example, under the names Rheocare ^® CTH (Cosmetic Rheologies) and Synthalen ^® CR (3V Sigma) are commercially available. Suitable cationic polymers derived from natural polymers are cationic ones

Derivatives of polysaccharides, for example, cationic derivatives of cellulose, starch or

Guar. Also suitable are chitosan and chitosan derivatives. Cationic polysaccharides have the general formula (P-3) GOB-N + R _a R _b R _c X

G is an anhydroglucose residue, for example starch or cellulose anhydroglucose;

B is a divalent linking group, for example alkylene, oxyalkylene, polyoxyalkylene or

hydroxyalkylene;

R ₃ , R _b and R _c are independently alkyl, aryl, alkylaryl, arylalkyl, alkoxyalkyl or

Alkoxyaryl each having up to 18 carbon atoms, wherein the total number of carbon atoms in R _a , R _b and R _{c is} preferably not more than 20;

X ^' is a common counter anion and is preferably chloride.

A cationic cellulose is sold under the name Polymer JR 400 from Amerchol ^® and has the INCI designation Polyquaternium-10 degrees. Another cationic cellulose carries the

INCI name Polyquaternium-24 and is under the trade name Polymer LM-200 of

Amerchol distributed. Other commercial products are the compounds Celquat ^® H 100, Celquat ^® L and 200. The commercial products mentioned are preferred cationic celluloses.

Suitable cationic guar derivatives are marketed under the trade name Jaguar ^® and have the INCI name guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride. Furthermore, particularly suitable cationic guar derivatives are also available from the company Hercules under the name

N-Hance ^® on the market. Further cationic guar derivatives are available from Cognis under the

Designation Cosmedia ^® distributed. A preferred cationic guar derivative is the

Commercial product AquaCat® ^® from. Hercules. This raw material is an already pre-dissolved cationic guar derivative.

Other preferred cationic polymers are for example quaternised CeIIu lose-derivatives, such as are available under the names of Celquat ^® and Polymer JR ^® commercially. The compounds Celquat ^® H 100, Celquat ^® L 200 and Polymer JR ^® 400 are preferred quaternized cellulose derivatives, cationic alkyl polyglycosides, cationized honey, for example the commercial product Honeyquat ^® 50, cationic guar derivatives, in particular under the trade name Cosmedia ^® guar and ^Jaguar® products, polymeric dimethyldiallylammonium salts and their copolymers with esters and amides of acrylic acid and methacrylic acid. Under the names Merquat ^® 100 (Poly (dimethyldiallylammonium chloride)) and Merquat ^® 550 (dimethyldiallylammonium chloride-acrylamide copolymer) are examples of such cationic polymers, Copolymers of vinylpyrrolidone with quaternized derivatives of dialkylaminoalkyl acrylate and methacrylate, such as diethyl sulfate quaternized vinylpyrrolidone-dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate copolymers. Such compounds are sold under the names Gafquat ^® 734 and Gafquat ^® 755 commercially,

Vinylpyrrolidone-vinyl imidazolium copolymers, such as those offered under the names Luviquat ^® FC 370, FC 550, FC 905 and HM 552, quaternized polyvinyl alcohol, as well as by the names of Polyquaternium 2, Polyquaternium 17, Polyquaternium 18 and Polyquaternium 27, having quaternary Nitrogen atoms in the polymer backbone,

Vinylpyrrolidone-vinylcaprolactam-acrylate terpolymers, such as those offered with acrylic acid esters and acrylamides as the third monomer building commercially, for example, under the name Aquaflex ^® SF 40.

Can be used as cationic polymers are sold under the names Polyquaternium-24 (commercial product z. B. Quatrisoft ^® LM 200), known polymers. , Gaffix ^® VC 713 (manufactured by ISP): Also according to the invention can be used the copolymers of vinylpyrrolidone, such as the commercial products Copolymer 845 (ISP manufacturer) are Gafquat ^® ASCP 1011, Gafquat ^® HS 110, Luviquat ^® 8155 and Luviquat ^® MS 370 available are. According to the invention preferred cationic polymers are cationic cellulose derivatives and chitosan and its derivatives, in particular the commercial products Polymer ^® JR 400, Hydagen ^® HCMF and Kytamer ^® PC, cationic guar derivatives, cationic honey derivatives, in particular the commercial product Honeyquat ^® 50, cationic Alkylpolyglycodside according to DE-PS 44 13 686 and polymers of the type Polyquaternium-37.

Furthermore, cationized protein hydrolysates are to be counted among the cationic polymers, wherein the underlying protein hydrolyzate from the animal, for example from collagen, milk or keratin, from the plant, for example from wheat, corn, rice, potatoes, soy or almonds, marine life forms, for example from fish collagen or algae, or biotechnologically derived protein hydrolysates. The protein hydrolyzates on which the cationic derivatives according to the invention are based can be obtained from the corresponding proteins by chemical, in particular alkaline or acid hydrolysis, by enzymatic hydrolysis and / or a combination of both types of hydrolysis. The hydrolysis of proteins usually results in a protein hydrolyzate having a molecular weight distribution of about 100 daltons up to several thousand daltons. Preference is given to those cationic protein hydrolyzates whose underlying protein content has a molecular weight of 100 to 25,000 daltons, preferably 250 to 5000 daltons. Furthermore, among cationic protein hydrolyzates quaternized amino acids and their Understand mixtures. The quaternization of the protein hydrolysates or amino acids is often carried out using quaternary ammonium salts such as N, N-dimethyl-N- (n-alkyl) -N- (2-hydroxy-3-chloro-n-propyl) ammonium halides. Furthermore, the cationic protein hydrolysates may also be further derivatized. As typical examples of the cationic protein hydrolysates and derivatives according to the invention, those mentioned under the INCI names in the "International Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary and Handbook", (seventh edition 1997, The Cosmetic, Toiletry, and Fragrance Association 1101 17 ^th Street, NW, Suite 300 Washington, DC 20036-4702) and commercially available products. The cationic polymers are preferably contained in the compositions according to the invention in amounts of from 0.05 to 10% by weight, based on the total agent. Amounts of 0.1 to 5 wt .-% are particularly preferred.

Amphoteric polymers, as well as the cationic polymers, are most preferred

Polymers.

Very particular preference is given to using amphoteric polymers according to the invention

Copolymers of diallyldimethylammonium chloride and acrylic acid. These copolymers are under the INCI name Polyquaternium-22, inter alia, with the trade name

Merquat ^® sold 280 (Nalco).

Very particularly preferably used according to the invention amphoteric polymers are terpolymers of diallyldimethylammonium chloride, acrylamide and acrylic acid. These copolymers are sold under the INCI name Polyquaternium-39, among others, with the trade name Merquat ^®

Plus 3330 (Nalco).

The amphoteric polymers are preferably contained in the agents according to the invention in amounts of from 0.05 to 10% by weight, based on the total agent. Amounts of 0.1 to 5 wt .-% are particularly preferred.

Preferred anionic copolymers are acrylic acid-acrylamide copolymers and in particular polyacrylamide copolymers with sulfonic acid-containing monomers. A particularly preferred anionic copolymer consists of 70 to 55 mol% of acrylamide and 30 to 45 mol% of 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid, wherein the sulfonic acid group is wholly or partly in the form of sodium, potassium, ammonium, mono- or triethanolammonium Salt is present. This copolymer may also be crosslinked, with crosslinking agents preferably polyolefinically unsaturated compounds such as tetraallyloxyethane, allylsucrose, allylpentaerythritol and methylenebisacrylamide are used. Such a polymer is contained in the commercial product Sepigel ^® 305 from SEPPIC. The use of this compound, which in addition to the polymer component contains a hydrocarbon mixture (Ci ₃ -Ci ₄ -lsoparaffin) and a nonionic emulsifier (laureth-7), has proved to be particularly advantageous in the context of the teaching of the invention. Also sold under the name Simulgel ^® 600 as a compound with isohexadecane and polysorbate 80 Natriumacryloyldimethyltaurat copolymers have proven to be particularly effective according to the invention.

Likewise preferred anionic homopolymers are uncrosslinked and crosslinked polyacrylic acids. Allyl ethers of pentaerythritol, sucrose and propylene may be preferred crosslinking agents. Such compounds are for example available under the trademark Carbopol ^® commercially.

Copolymers of maleic anhydride and methyl vinyl ether, especially those with crosslinks, are also color-retaining polymers. A 1, 9-decadiene crosslinked maleic acid-methyl vinyl ether copolymer is available under the name ^® Stabileze QM.

The anionic polymers are preferably contained in the agents according to the invention in amounts of from 0.05 to 10% by weight, based on the total agent. Amounts of 0.1 to 5 wt .-% are particularly preferred.

An inventively particularly preferred polyurethane is available under the trade name Luviset.RTM ^® PUR (BASF).

In a further embodiment, the agents according to the invention can be nonionic

Contain polymers.

Suitable nonionic polymers are, for example:

Vinylpyrrolidone / vinyl ester copolymers, as sold, for example, under the trademark Luviskol ^® (BASF). Luviskol ^® VA 64 and Luviskol ^® VA 73, each vinylpyrrolidone / vinyl acetate copolymers, are also preferred nonionic polymers.

Cellulose ethers such as hydroxypropyl cellulose, hydroxyethyl cellulose and hydroxypropylcellulose Methylhy-, as sold for example under the trademark Culminal® ^® and Benecel ^® (AQUALON) and Natrosol ^® grades (Hercules).

Starch and its derivatives, in particular starch, such as Structure XL ^® (National Starch), a multifunctional, salt-tolerant starch; shellac

Polyvinylpyrrolidones, as sold for example under the name Luviskol ^® (BASF).

The nonionic polymers are preferably contained in the compositions according to the invention in amounts of from 0.05 to 10% by weight, based on the total agent. Amounts of 0.1 to 5 wt .-% are particularly preferred. The polymers (P) are preferably present in the compositions used according to the invention in amounts of from 0.01 to 30% by weight, based on the total composition. Amounts of from 0.01 to 25, in particular from 0.01 to 15 wt .-%, are particularly preferred.

The following ingredients additionally contribute to the achievement and further enhancement of the effects of the invention.

With particular preference the compositions according to the invention contain fatty substances (fat) as further active ingredient. Fat substances (fat) are understood to mean fatty acids, fatty alcohols, natural and synthetic waxes, which can be in solid form as well as liquid in aqueous dispersion, and natural and synthetic cosmetic oil components.

As fatty acids (Fatac) can be used linear and / or branched, saturated and / or unsaturated fatty acids having 6 to 30 carbon atoms. Preference is given to fatty acids having 10 to 22 carbon atoms. Among these could be mentioned, for example, isostearic as the commercial products Emersol ^® 871 and Emersol ^® 875, and isopalmitic acids such as the commercial product Edenor ^® IP 95, and all other products sold under the trade names Edenor ^® (Cognis) fatty acids. Further typical examples of such fatty acids are caproic, caprylic, 2-ethylhexanoic, capric, lauric, isotridecanoic, myristic, palmitic, palmitoleic, stearic, isostearic, oleic, elaidic, petroselic, linoleic, linoleic and erucic acid. The use of stearic acid is usually preferred. The amount used is 0.1 - 15 wt.%, Based on the total mean. The amount is preferably 0.5-10% by weight, with amounts of 1-5% by weight being particularly advantageous.

As fatty alcohols (fatal) it is possible to use saturated, mono- or polyunsaturated, branched or unbranched fatty alcohols with C ₆ -C ₃₀ -, preferably C ₁₀ -C ₂₂ -and very particularly preferably C ₁₂ -C ₂₂ -carbon atoms. Decanols, octanols, dodecadienol, decadienol, oleyl alcohol, eruca alcohol, ricinoleic alcohol, stearyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, lauryl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, arachidyl alcohol, caprylic alcohol, capric alcohol, linoleyl alcohol, linolenyl alcohol and behenyl alcohol are, for example, decanol, octanolol, dodecadienol, decadienol , as well as their Guerbet alcohols, this list should have exemplary and non-limiting character. However, the fatty alcohols are derived from preferably natural fatty acids. Also usable according to the invention are those fatty alcohol cuts which represent a mixture of different fatty alcohols. Such substances are for example under the names Stenol ^® , for example Stenol ^® 1618 or Lanette ^®, eg Lanette ^® O or Lorol® ^®, eg Lorol® ^® C8, Lorol® ^® C14, C18 Lorol® ^®, ^® Lorol® C8-18, HD Ocenol ^®, Crodacol ^®, eg Crodacol ^® CS, Novol ^®, 16 or Isocarb ^® 24 available for purchase Eutanol ^® G, Guerbitol ^® 16, Guerbitol ^® 18, Guerbitol ^® 20, Isofol ^® 12, Isofol ^® 16, lsofol ^® 24, Isofol ^® 36, Isocarb 12 ^®, ^® Isocarb. Of course, wool wax alcohols, as are commercially available, for example under the names of Corona ^®, White Swan ^®, Coronet ^® or Fluilan ^® can be used according to the invention. The fatty alcohols are used in amounts of from 0.1 to 30% by weight, based on the total preparation, preferably in amounts of from 0.1 to 20% by weight.

As natural or synthetic waxes (Fatwax), solid paraffins or isoparaffins, carnauba waxes, beeswaxes, candelilla waxes, ozokerites, ceresin, spermaceti, sunflower wax, fruit waxes such as apple wax or citrus wax, microwaxes of PE or PP can be used according to the invention. Such waxes are available, for example, from Kahl & Co., Trittau.

The amount used is 0.1-50 wt.% Based on the total agent, preferably 0.1 to 20 wt.% And particularly preferably 0.1 to 15 wt.% Based on the total agent. The total amount of oil and fat components in the compositions according to the invention is usually 0.5-75% by weight, based on the total agent. Amounts of 0.5-35 wt .-% are preferred according to the invention.

Another inventive synergistic active ingredient in the inventive

Compositions with the active substance complex according to the invention are protein hydrolysates and / or its derivatives (P).

According to the invention, protein hydrolysates of both vegetable and animal or marine or synthetic origin can be used.

Animal protein hydrolysates are, for example, elastin, collagen, keratin, silk and milk protein protein hydrolysates, which may also be present in the form of salts. Such products are, for example, under the trademarks Dehylan ^® (Cognis), Promois ^® (Interorgana)

Collapuron ^® (Cognis), Nutrilan® ^® (Cognis), Gelita-Sol ^® (German Gelatinefabriken Stoess & Co)

Lexein ^® (Inolex) and kerasol tm ^® (Croda) sold.

Plant proteins and their hydrolysates are, for example, products based on wheat,

Oats, rice, corn, potatoes Moringa or soy. Such products are, for example, among the

Trademark Gluadin ^® (Cognis), diamine ^® (Diamalt) ^® (Inolex), Hydrosoy ^® (Croda)

Hydro Lupine ^® (Croda), hydro Sesame ^® (Croda), Hydro tritium ^® (Croda) and Crotein ^® (Croda), and

Available Puricare ^® LS 9658 by the company. Laboratoires Sérobiologiques.

Further preferred protein hydrolysates according to the invention are of maritime origin. These include, for example, collagen hydrolyzates of fish or algae as well as protein hydrolysates of

Mussels or pearl hydrolyzates. The protein hydrolysates (P) are present in the compositions in concentrations of 0.001% by weight to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.05% by weight to 15% by weight and most preferably in amounts of 0.05% by weight. up to 5% by weight.

The effect of the compositions according to the invention can be further increased by a 2-pyrrolidinone-5-carboxylic acid and its derivatives (J). Another object of the invention is therefore the use of derivatives of 2-pyrrolidinone-5-carboxylic acid. Preference is given to the sodium, potassium, calcium, magnesium or ammonium salts in which the ammonium ion carries, in addition to hydrogen, one to three C 1 to C ₄ alkyl groups. The sodium salt is most preferred. The amounts used in the inventive compositions are 0.05 to 10 wt.%, Based on the total agent, particularly preferably 0.1 to 5, and in particular 0.1 to 3 wt.%.

Another preferred group of ingredients of the compositions according to the invention with the active ingredient complex according to the invention are vitamins, provitamins or vitamin precursors. Vitamins, pro-vitamins and vitamin precursors are particularly preferred, which are assigned to the groups A, B, C, E, F and H.

The group of substances called vitamin A includes retinol (vitamin A ₁ ) and 3,4-didehydroretinol (vitamin A ₂ ). The ß-carotene is the provitamin of retinol. As vitamin A component according to the invention, for example, vitamin A acid and its esters, vitamin A aldehyde and vitamin A alcohol and its esters such as the palmitate and the acetate into consideration. The agents according to the invention preferably contain the vitamin A component in amounts of 0.05-1% by weight, based on the total preparation. The vitamin B group or the vitamin B complex include, among others

Vitamin B ₁ (thiamine) Vitamin B ₂ (riboflavin)

Vitamin B ₃ . Under this name, the compounds nicotinic acid and nicotinamide (niacinamide) are often performed. Preferred according to the invention is the nicotinic acid amide which is contained in the agents used according to the invention preferably in amounts of from 0.05 to 1% by weight, based on the total agent.

Vitamin B ₅ (pantothenic acid, panthenol and pantolactone). Panthenol and / or pantolactone are preferably used in the context of this group. Derivatives of panthenol which can be used according to the invention are, in particular, the esters and ethers of panthenol and also cationically derivatized panthenols. Individual representatives are, for example, panthenol triacetate, panthenol monoethyl ether and its monoacetate, as well as cationic panthenol derivatives. The said compounds of the vitamin B ₅ type are in the Agents according to the invention preferably in amounts of 0.05 to 10 wt .-%, based on the total agent. Amounts of 0.1-5 wt .-% are particularly preferred.

Vitamin B ₆ (pyridoxine and pyridoxamine and pyridoxal).

Vitamin C (ascorbic acid). Vitamin C is used in the agents according to the invention preferably in amounts of 0.1 to 3 wt .-%, based on the total agent. Use in the form of palmitic acid ester, glucosides or phosphates may be preferred. The use in combination with tocopherols may also be preferred. Vitamin E (tocopherols, especially α-tocopherol). Tocopherol and its derivatives, which include in particular the esters such as the acetate, the nicotinate, the phosphate and the succinate, are preferably present in the agents according to the invention in amounts of 0.05-1% by weight, based on the total agent.

Vitamin F. The term "vitamin F" is usually understood as meaning essential fatty acids, in particular linoleic acid, linolenic acid and arachidonic acid.

Vitamin H. Vitamin H is the compound (3aS, 4S, 6aR) -2-oxohexahydrothienol [3,4-d] - imidazole-4-valeric acid, for which, however, the trivial name biotin has meanwhile prevailed. Biotin is preferably present in the compositions according to the invention in amounts of from 0.0001 to 1.0% by weight, in particular in amounts of from 0.001 to 0.01% by weight. The compositions according to the invention preferably contain vitamins, provitamins and vitamin precursors from groups A, B, E and H. Panthenol, pantolactone, pyridoxine and its derivatives as well as nicotinic acid amide and biotin are particularly preferred.

Finally, the use of plant extracts (L) in the compositions according to the invention gives rise to further synergistic advantages. The extracts of green tea, oak bark, stinging nettle, witch hazel, hops, henna, chamomile, burdock root, horsetail, hawthorn, linden, almond, aloe vera, spruce needle, horse chestnut, sandalwood, juniper, coconut, mango, apricot, lime , Wheat, kiwi, melon, orange, grapefruit, sage, rosemary, birch, mallow, valerian, meadowfoam, quenelle, yarrow, thyme, lemon balm, toadstool, coltsfoot, marshmallow, meristem, ginseng, coffee, cocoa, moringa, ginger root and ayurvedic Plant extracts preferred. Traditional Ayurvedic plants include Aegle Marmelos (Bilwa), Cyperus Rotundus (Nagar Motha), Emblica officinalis (Amalki), Morida Citrifolia (Ashyuka), Tinospora Cordifolia (Guduchi), Santalum album, (Chandana), Crocus sativus (Kumkuma), Cinnamonum Zeylanicum and Nelumbo Nucifera (Kamala). For the purposes of the present invention, preference is given to cosmetic compositions containing Aegle Marmelos (Bilwa), Cyperus Rotundus (Nagar Motha), Emblica Officinalis (Amalki), Tinospora Cordifolia (Guduchi), Crocus Sativus (Kumkuma), Cinnamonum Zeylanicum and Nelumbo Nucifera (Kamala). Particularly preferred are cosmetic compositions containing Aegle Marmelos (Bilwa), Tinospora Cordifolia (Guduchi), Crocus sativus (Kumkuma), Cinnamonum Zeylanicum and Nelumbo nucifera (Kamala).

As a further essential ingredient, the agents according to the invention may contain purine and / or derivative (s) of purine. Here are inventively preferred cosmetic agents characterized in that they - based on their weight - 0.001 to 2.5 wt .-%, preferably 0.0025 to 1 wt .-%, particularly preferably 0.005 to 0.5 wt .-% and in particular from 0.01 to 0.1% by weight of purine (s) and / or purine derivative (s).

Among purine, the purines and the purine derivatives, some representatives are particularly preferred according to the invention. Cosmetic agents preferred according to the invention are characterized in that they contain purine and / or purine derivative (s) of the following compounds:

Purine, adenine, guanine, uric acid, hypoxanthine, 6-purinethiol, 6-thioguanine, xanthine,

Caffeine, theobromine, theophylline

Caffeine has proved particularly useful in hair cosmetic formulations, for example in shampoos, conditioners, hair lotions and / or lotions, preferably in amounts of from 0.005 to 0.25% by weight, more preferably from 0.01 to 0.1% by weight and in particular from 0.01 to 0.05 wt .-% (in each case based on the composition) can be used.

Another preferred active ingredient for additional use in the invention

Agent is taurine, 2-aminoethanesulfonic acid, and N-monomethyltaurine and N, N-dimethyltaurine.

Other taurine derivatives also include taurines, which naturally occur as metabolites in plant and / or animal and / or marine organisms.

These include, for example, although not preferred, degradation products of cysteine, especially cysteine sulfinic acid.

Other taurine derivatives in the context of the present invention are the taurocholic acid and

Hypotaurine.

Particularly preferred are agents according to the invention, which - based on their weight - 0.0001 bis

10.0 wt .-%, preferably 0.0005 to 5.0 wt .-%, particularly preferably 0.001 to 2.0 wt .-% and in particular 0.001 to 1, 0 wt .-% taurine and / or a derivative of the Taurines included.

In addition, it may prove advantageous if the compositions according to the invention contain penetration aids and / or swelling agents (M). These include, for example, urea and urea derivatives, guanidine and its derivatives, arginine and its derivatives, water glass, imidazole and its derivatives, histidine and its derivatives, benzyl alcohol, glycerol, glycol and glycol ethers, propylene glycol and propylene glycol ethers, for example propylene glycol monoethyl ether, carbonates, bicarbonates, Diols and triols, and in particular 1, 2-diols and 1, 3-diols such as 1, 2-propanediol, 1, 2-pentanediol, 1, 2-hexanediol, 1, 2-dodecanediol, 1, 3-propanediol, 1 , 6-hexanediol, 1, 5-pentanediol, 1, 4-butanediol. A particularly preferred group of swelling agents may be hydantoins. Therefore, compositions of the invention preferably contain 0.01 to 5 wt .-% hydantoin or at least one Hydatoinderivates. Hydantoin derivatives are particularly preferably used according to the invention, with 5-ureidohydantoin being particularly preferred. Regardless of whether hydantoin or hydantoin derivative (s) is / are used, amounts of from 0.02 to 2.5 wt .-% are very particularly preferred, from 0.05 to 1, 5 wt .-%, more preferably 0.075 to 1 wt .-% and in particular 0.1 to 0.25 wt .-% - each based on the total agent - most preferably.

In a particularly preferred embodiment, the active ingredient is at least one

Polyhydroxy compound containing at least 2 OH groups. Among these compounds are those having 2 to 12 OH groups, and especially those having 2, 3, 4, 5, 6 or 10

OH groups are preferred.

Polyhydroxy compounds having 2 OH groups are, for example, glycol (CH ₂ (OH) CH ₂ OH) and other 1, 2-diols such as H- (CH ₂ ) _n -CH (OH) CH ₂ OH where n = 1, 2, 3 , 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10, 11, 12, 13, 14,

15, 16, 17, 18, 19, 20. Also 1, 3-diols such as H- (CH ₂ ) _n -CH (OH) CH ₂ CH ₂ OH where n = 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6 , 7,

8, 9, 10, 11, 12, 13, 14, 15, 16, 17, 18, 19, 20 can be used according to the invention. The (n, n + 1) - or

(n, n + 2) diols with non-terminal OH groups can also be used.

Important representatives of polyhydroxy compounds having 2 OH groups are also the polyethylene and polypropylene glycols.

Among the polyhydroxy compounds having 3 OH groups, the glycerin has a prominent one

Importance.

In summary, compositions according to the invention are preferred in which the

Polyhydroxy compound is selected from ethylene glycol, propylene glycol, polyethylene glycol,

Polypropylene glycol, glycerin, glucose, fructose, pentaerythritol, sorbitol, mannitol, xyNt and theirs

Mixtures.

Regardless of the type of polyhydroxy compound having at least 2 OH groups used, agents according to the invention are preferred which, based on the weight of the agent, are from 0.01 to 5

Wt.%, Preferably 0.05 to 4 wt.%, Particularly preferably 0.05 to 3.5 wt.% And in particular 0.1 to 2.5 wt.% Polyhydroxy compound (s).

Other optional ingredients that can be used in cosmetic compositions are preservatives. Preservatives used are the substance classes listed in Appendix 6, Parts A and B of the European Cosmetics Regulation. Particularly preferred is mild preservation, ideally without the addition of typical preservatives.

In a further embodiment, the agents according to the invention should additionally contain at least one UV light protection filter. With regard to further optional components and the amounts of these components used, reference is expressly made to the relevant manuals known to the person skilled in the art.

As already mentioned, the high care effect of the agents according to the invention is of particular importance, in particular, since it gives excellent results even in the presence of oxidizing agents, for example in the context of oxidative hair dyeing.

A second subject of the invention is therefore a method for hair treatment, in which a cosmetic composition according to claim 1 is applied to the hair and rinsed after a contact time of the hair.

The exposure time is preferably a few seconds to 100 minutes, more preferably 1 to 50 minutes and most preferably 1 to 30 minutes.

The following examples are intended to illustrate the subject matter of the present invention without, however, limiting it.

Examples

All quantities are, unless otherwise stated, parts by weight.

The following formulations were provided using known preparation methods.

shampoo

shine Tonic

flush

Claims

claims:

A hair conditioning composition comprising a) at least 0.01% by weight of a quaternary imidazoline derivative having at least two long fat residues according to formula I and b) at least 0.01% by weight to 5.0% by weight of a monoalkyltrimethylammonium salt having a chain length of Alkylrestes of 16 to 24 carbon atoms and c) a cosmetic carrier.

2. Composition according to claim 1, characterized in that it contains at least one silicone selected from the group of dimethicones and / or the group of Cylomethicone and / or the group of amodimethicones and / or the group of dimethiconols.

3. Composition according to one of claims 1 or 2, characterized in that it contains at least one silicone selected from the group of dimethicones and at least one silicone selected from the group of Cyclomehicone.

4. Composition according to one of claims 1 to 3, characterized in that it further contains at least one further cationic compound.

5. Composition according to one of claims 1 to 4, characterized in that the further cationic compound is a cationic polymer.

6. Composition according to one of claims 1 to 5, characterized in that it additionally contains at least one substance from the group of vitamins, provitamins and vitamin precursors and their derivatives, with vitamins, pro-vitamins and vitamin precursors are preferred, the groups A, B, C, E, F and H are assigned.

7. Use of a preparation according to any one of claims 1 to 6 for the purification of skin and hair.

8. Use of a preparation according to one of claims 1 to 6 for the restructuring of keratinic fibers, in particular human hair.

9. A method for the treatment of skin or hair, wherein a preparation according to any one of claims 1 to 6 is applied to the skin and / or the hair, wherein the preparation is rinsed again after a contact time of 0 to 45 minutes.

10. A method for the treatment of skin or hair, wherein a preparation according to any one of claims 1 to 6 applied to the skin and / or hair and left there until the next wash.