DE102009027970A1 - Cosmetic composition containing ethoxylated amaranth oil - Google Patents

Abstract

The invention relates to cosmetic agents containing ethoxylated amaranth oil and surfactants in a cosmetic carrier and further active ingredients, in particular selected from native oils, polymers, silicone oils and ester oils.

Description

The The invention relates to cosmetic compositions containing ethoxylated amaranth oil and surfactants in a cosmetic carrier and other active ingredients, in particular selected from native oils, polymers, silicone oils and ester oils.

The cosmetic treatment keratinic fibers, especially of human Hair is an important part of human body care. Thus, human hair is today in many ways with hair cosmetic Treated preparations.

The known active ingredients can but not all needs sufficiently cover. There is therefore still a need for active ingredients or drug combinations for cosmetic products with good nourishing properties and good biodegradability. Furthermore, the compatibility Of the cosmetic compositions an extremely important criterion.

cleaning supplies for skin and hair must not only have good cleaning power, but should continue for the skin and mucous membranes well tolerated and even more often Do not use excessive defatting or dryness. In addition will from modern compositions a significantly improved condition the skin in terms of the moisture balance of the dry skin expected. The wetting of skin and hair with impurities should significantly delayed become.

Natural oils, for example Soybean oil, are difficult to incorporate in surface-active agents. Become on the other hand their ethoxylates, such as ethoxylated Soybean oil, used, so is not sufficient conditioning, too low combing wet and dry fibers, too low a gloss. Even the use of Amaranthöl does not lead to a satisfactory Result, because amaranth oil not stable incorporated into the formulations. The task of the present Invention is the conditioning properties and the shine of keratinic fibers in the application of surfactant Significantly improve resources.

Surprisingly It was found that this ethoxylated amaranth oil in excellent Way is suitable.

• a) mindestens ein ethoxiliertes Amaranthöl und
• b) mindestens ein anionisches, amphoteres, kationisches oder nichtionisches Tensid und
• c) ein wässriger Träger.

A first subject of the present invention is therefore a composition for the treatment of keratinic fibers, in particular human hair, containing

• a) at least one ethoxylated amaranth oil and
• b) at least one anionic, amphoteric, cationic or nonionic surfactant and
• c) an aqueous carrier.

Farther are distinguished compositions of the invention containing the material complex according to the invention by a significantly improved state of the keratinic fibers in terms of moisture content of the keratinic fibers. Finally it became more surprising Way established that the compositions of the invention to a significantly delayed Repuriation of keratinic fibers lead.

The Ingredients a) and b) are described in detail below. As far as below the active ingredient complex (A) is spoken refers this statement is necessarily contained in the compositions according to the invention Ingredients a), and b).

Hair treatment agents For the purposes of the present invention, for example, hair shampoos, hair conditioners, conditioning shampoos, hair conditioners, hair conditioners, hair wraps, Hair Tonics, hair dye shampoos or their combinations.

Under combing is understood according to the invention both the combability wet fiber, as well as combability the dry fiber.

When Griff defines the tactility of a fiber collective, whereby the expert sensory the parameters fullness and suppleness of the Collective feels and rated.

Shaping is understood to mean the ability to give a shape change to a group of previously treated keratin-containing fibers, in particular human hair. In the hair cosmetics will too talked about dressing.

When cosmetic carriers are particularly suitable according to the invention O / W, W / O and W / O / W emulsions in Form of creams or gels or surfactant-containing foaming solutions, such as shampoos, foam aerosols or other preparations, especially for the application on the hair are suitable. The cosmetic carriers can in particular aqueous or watery-alcoholic be.

One aqueous cosmetic carrier contains at least 50% by weight of water.

For the purposes of the present invention, aqueous-alcoholic cosmetic carriers comprise aqueous solutions containing 3 to 70% by weight of a C ₁ -C ₆ -alcohol, in particular methanol, ethanol or propanol, isopropanol, butanol, isobutanol, tert-butanol, n-Pentanol, iso-pentanols, n-hexanol, iso-hexanols, glycol, glycerol, 1,2-pentanediol, 1,5-pentanediol, 1,2-hexanediol or 1,6-hexanediol to understand. The compositions according to the invention may additionally contain further organic solvents, for example methoxybutanol, benzyl alcohol, ethyl diglycol or 1,2-propylene glycol. Preference is given to all water-soluble organic solvents.

When Ingredient a) the agents according to the invention contain at least one ethoxylate the amaranth. Amaranth oil is a natural oil and has an average molecular weight of 1388 g / mol. This Amaranthöl becomes after usual Process ethoxylated. The ethoxylates according to the invention have one average degree of ethoxylation of from 5 to 100 moles of ethylene oxide, preferably from 10 to 100 moles, more preferably from 10 to 90, and most preferably from 10 to 80 moles of ethylene oxide.

According to the invention it can be preferred when the Amaranthölethoxilate a limited homolog distribution exhibit. These are also obtained by conventional methods.

The Amaranthölethoxilate are in the compositions of the invention in an amount based on the total composition of 0.01 to 10 wt .-%, preferably from 0.01 to 7.5 wt .-%, in particular of 0.1 contain up to 5.0 wt .-%.

When Ingredient b) surfactants are used, and in principle both anionic as well as zwitterionic, ampholytic, nonionic and cationic surfactants are suitable. The selection is aimed according to the type of remedy. In the case of a shampoo, in particular at least one surfactant from the group of anionic, the zwitterionic or nonionic surfactant Substances chosen. It is preferred that at least one anionic and at least a zwitterionic surfactant Substance selected becomes. These surface-active substances are particularly preferred chosen from the group of particularly mild surfactants. there is The relationship between anionic and zwitterionic surfactants between 10: 1 and 1: 5. Most preferably, the ratio is 5: 1 to 1: 2.

• – lineare und verzweigte Fettsäuren mit 8 bis 30 C-Atomen (Seifen),
• – Ethercarbonsäuren der Formel R-O-(CH₂-CH₂O)_x-CH₂-COOH, in der R eine lineare Alkylgruppe mit 8 bis 30 C-Atomen und x = 0 oder 1 bis 16 ist und deren Salze,
• – Acylsarcoside mit 8 bis 24 C-Atomen in der Acylgruppe,
• – Acyltauride mit 8 bis 24 C-Atomen in der Acylgruppe,
• – Acylisethionate mit 8 bis 24 C-Atomen in der Acylgruppe,
• – Sulfobernsteinsäuremono- und -dialkylester mit 8 bis 24 C-Atomen in der Alkylgruppe und Sulfobernsteinsäuremono-alkylpolyoxyethylester mit 8 bis 24 C-Atomen in der Alkylgruppe und 1 bis 6 Oxyethylgruppen.
• – lineare Alkansulfonate mit 8 bis 24 C-Atomen,
• – lineare Alpha-Olefinsulfonate mit 8 bis 24 C-Atomen,
• – Alpha-Sulfofettsäuremethylester von Fettsäuren mit 8 bis 30 C-Atomen,
• – Alkylsulfate und Alkylpolyglykolethersulfate der Formel R-O(CH₂-CH₂O)_x-OSO₃H, in der R eine bevorzugt lineare Alkylgruppe mit 8 bis 30 C-Atomen und x = 0 oder 1 bis 12 ist,
• – Hydroxysulfonate im wesentlichen entsprechend mindestens einer der beiden folgenden Formeln oder deren deren Mischungen sowie deren salzen, CH₃-(CH₂)_y-CHOH-(CH₂)_p-(CH-SO₃M)-(CH₂)_z-CH₂-O-(C_nH_2nO)_x-H, und/oder CH₃-(CH₂)_y-(CH-SO₃M)-(CH₂)_p-CHOH-(CH₂)_z-CH₂-O-(C_nH_2nO)_x-H wobei in beiden Formeln y und z = 0 oder ganze Zahlen von 1 bis 18, p = 0, 1 oder 2 und die Summe (y + z + p) eine Zahl von 12 bis 18, x = 0 oder eine Zahl von 1 bis 30 und n eine ganze Zahl von 2 bis 4 sowie M = H oder Alkali-, insbesondere Natrium, Kalium, Lithium, Erdalkali-, insbesondere Magnesium, Calcium, Zink und/oder einem Ammoniumion, welches gegebenenfalls substituiert sein kann, insbesondere Mono-, Di-, Tri- oder Tetraammoniumionen mit C1 bis C4 Alkyl-, Alkenyl- oder Arylresten,
• – sulfatierte Hydroxyalkylpolyethylen- und/oder Hydroxyalkylenpropylenglykolether der Formel R¹-(CHOSO₃M)-CHR³-(OCHR⁴-CH₂)n-OR² mit R¹, einem linearen Alkylrest mit 1 bis 24 C-Atomen, R² für einen linearen oder verzweigten, gesättigten Alkylrest mit 1 bis 24 C-Atomen, R³ für Wasserstoff oder einen linearen Alkylrest mit 1 bis 24 C-Atomen, R⁴ für Wasserstoff oder einen Methylrest und M für Wasserstoff, Ammonium, Alkylammonium, Alkanolammonium, worin die Alkyl- und Alkanolreste je 1 bis 4 C-Atome aufweisen, oder ein Metallatom ausgewählt aus Lithium, Natrium, Kalium, Calcium oder Magnesium und n für eine Zahl im Bereich von 0 bis 12 stehen und weiterhin die Gesamtzahl der in R¹ und R³ enthaltenen C-Atome 2 bis 44 beträgt,
• – Sulfonate ungesättigter Fettsäuren mit 8 bis 24 C-Atomen und 1 bis 6 Doppelbindungen,
• – Ester der Weinsäure und Zitronensäure mit Alkoholen, die Anlagerungsprodukte von etwa 2–15 Molekülen Ethylenoxid und/oder Propylenoxid an Fettalkohole mit 8 bis 22 C-Atomen darstellen,
• – Alkyl- und/oder Alkenyletherphosphate der Formel, R¹(OCH₂CH₂)_n-O-(PO-OX)-OR², in der R¹ bevorzugt für einen aliphatischen Kohlenwasserstoffrest mit 8 bis 30 Kohlenstoffatomen, R² für Wasserstoff, einen Rest (CH₂CH₂O)_nR² oder X, n für Zahlen von 1 bis 10 und X für Wasserstoff, ein Alkali- oder Erdalkalimetall oder NR³R⁴R⁵R⁶, mit R³ bis R⁶ unabhängig voneinander stehend für Wasserstoff oder einen C₁ bis C₄-Kohlenwasserstoffrest, steht,
• – sulfatierte Fettsäurealkylenglykolester der Formel RCO(AlkO)_nSO₃M in der RCO- für einen linearen oder verzweigten, aliphatischen, gesättigten und/oder ungesättigten Acylrest mit 6 bis 22 C-Atomen, Alk für CH₂CH₂, CHCH₃CH₂ und/oder CH₂CHCH₃, n für Zahlen von 0,5 bis 5 und M für ein Metall steht, wie Alkalimetall, insbesondere Natrium, Kalium, Lithium, Erdalkalimetall, insbesondere Magnesium, Calcium, Zink, oder Ammoniumion, wie ⁺NR³R⁴R⁵R⁶, mit R³ bis R⁶ unabhängig voneinander stehend für Wasserstoff oder einen C1 bis C4-Kohlenwasserstoffrest,
• – Monoglyceridsulfate und Monoglyceridethersulfate der Formel R⁸OC-(OCH₂CH₂)_x-OCH₂-[CHO(CH₂CH₂O)_yH]-CH₂O(CH₂CH₂O)_z-SO₃X, in der R⁸CO für einen linearen oder verzweigten Acylrest mit 6 bis 22 Kohlenstoffatomen, x, y und z in Summe für 0 oder für Zahlen von 1 bis 30, vorzugsweise 2 bis 10, und X für ein Alkali- oder Erdalkalimetall steht. Typische Beispiele für im Sinne der Erfindung geeignete Monoglycerid(ether)sulfate sind die Umsetzungsprodukte von Laurinsäuremonoglycerid, Kokosfettsäuremonoglycerid, Palmitinsäuremonoglycerid, Stearinsäuremonoglycerid, Ölsäuremonoglycerid und Talgfettsäuremonoglycerid sowie deren Ethylenoxidaddukte mit Schwefeltrioxid oder Chlorsulfonsäure in Form ihrer Natriumsalze. Vorzugsweise werden Monoglyceridsulfate eingesetzt, in der R⁸CO für einen linearen Acylrest mit 8 bis 18 Kohlenstoffatomen steht,
• – Amidethercarbonsäuren, R¹-CO-NR²-CH₂CH₂-O-(CH₂CH₂O)_nCH₂COOM, mit R¹ als geradkettigen oder verzweigten Alkyl- oder Alkenylrest mit einer Zahl an Kohlenstoffatomen in der Kette von 2 bis 30, n steht für eine ganze Zahl von 1 bis 20 und R² steht für Wasserstoff, einen Methyl-, Ethyl-, Propyl-, Isopropyl-, n-Butyl-, t-Butyl- oder iso-Butylrest und M steht für Wasserstoff oder ein Metall wie Alkalimetall, insbesondere Natrium, Kalium, Lithium, Erdalkalimetall, insbesondere Magnesium, Calcium, Zink, oder ein Ammoniumion, wie ⁺NR³R⁴R⁵R⁶, mit R³ bis R⁶ unabhängig voneinander stehend für Wasserstoff oder einen C1 bis C4-Kohlenwasserstoffrest. Derartige Produkte sind beispielsweise von der Firma Chem-Y unter der Produktbezeichnung Akypo^® erhältlich.
• – Acylglutamate der Formel XOOC-CH2CH2CH(C(NH)OR)-COOX, in der RCO für einen linearen oder verzweigten Acylrest mit 6 bis 22 Kohlenstoffatomen und 0 und/oder 1, 2 oder 3 Doppelbindungen und X für Wasserstoff, ein Alkali- und/oder Erdalkalimetall, Ammonium, Alkylammonium, Alkanolammonium oder Glucammonium steht,
• – Kondensationsprodukte aus einem wasserlöslichen Salz eines wasserlöslichen Eiweißhydrolysats mit einer C8–C30-Fettsäure. Solche Produkte sind unter dem Warenzeichen Lamepon^®, Maypon^®, Gluadin^®, Hostapon^® KCG oder Amisoft^® seit langem im Handel erhältlich.
• – Alkyl- und/oder Alkenyl-Oligoglykosidcarboxylate, -sulfate, -phosphate und/oder -isethionate,
• – Acyllactylate und
• – Hydroxymischethersulfate.

Suitable anionic surfactants (tanion) in preparations according to the invention are all anionic surfactants suitable for use on the human body. Typical examples of anionic surfactants are:

• - linear and branched fatty acids with 8 to 30 carbon atoms (soaps),
• Ether carboxylic acids of the formula RO- (CH ₂ -CH ₂ O) _x -CH ₂ -COOH, in which R is a linear alkyl group having 8 to 30 C atoms and x = 0 or 1 to 16 and salts thereof,
• Acylsarcosides having 8 to 24 C atoms in the acyl group,
• Acyltaurides having 8 to 24 carbon atoms in the acyl group,
• Acyl isethionates having 8 to 24 C atoms in the acyl group,
• - Sulfobernsteinsäuremono- and dialkyl esters having 8 to 24 carbon atoms in the alkyl group and sulfosuccinic monoalkylpolyoxyethylester having 8 to 24 carbon atoms in the alkyl group and 1 to 6 oxyethyl groups.
• - linear alkanesulfonates having 8 to 24 carbon atoms,
• - linear alpha-olefin sulfonates having 8 to 24 carbon atoms,
• Alpha-sulfofatty acid methyl esters of fatty acids having 8 to 30 C atoms,
• Alkyl sulfates and alkyl polyglycol ether sulfates of the formula RO (CH ₂ -CH ₂ O) _x -OSO ₃ H, in which R is a preferably linear alkyl group having 8 to 30 C atoms and x = 0 or 1 to 12,
• Hydroxysulfonates essentially corresponding to at least one of the following two formulas or mixtures thereof _and salts thereof, CH ₃ - (CH ₂ ) _y -CHOH- (CH ₂ ) _p - (CH-SO ₃ M) - (CH ₂ ) _z - CH ₂ -O- (C _n H _2n O) _x -H, and / or CH ₃ - (CH ₂ ) _y - (CH-SO ₃ M) - (CH ₂ ) _p -CHOH- (CH ₂ ) _z - CH ₂ -O- (C _n H _2n O) _x -H where in both formulas y and z = 0 or integers from 1 to 18, p = 0, 1 or 2 and the sum (y + z + p) a number from 12 to 18, x = 0 or a number from 1 to 30 and n an integer from 2 to 4 and M = H or alkali metal, in particular sodium, potassium, lithium, alkaline earth metal, in particular magnesium, calcium, zinc and / or an ammonium ion, which may optionally be substituted, in particular mono-, di-, tri- or tetraammonium ions with C1 to C4 alkyl, alkenyl or aryl radicals,
• - Sulfated Hydroxyalkylpolyethylen- and / or Hydroxyalkylenpropylenglykolether of formula R ¹ - (CHOSO ₃ M) -CHR ³ - (OCHR ⁴ -CH ₂ ) n-OR ² with R ¹ , a linear alkyl radical having 1 to 24 carbon atoms, R ² for a linear or branched, saturated alkyl radical having 1 to 24 C atoms, R ^{3 is} hydrogen or a linear alkyl radical having 1 to 24 C atoms, R ^{4 is} hydrogen or a methyl radical and M is hydrogen, ammonium, alkylammonium, alkanolammonium, wherein the alkyl and alkanol radicals each have 1 to 4 carbon atoms, or a metal atom selected from lithium, sodium, potassium, calcium or magnesium and n are a number in the range of 0 to 12 and further the total number of in R ¹ and R ³ contains C atoms 2 to 44,
• Sulfonates of unsaturated fatty acids having 8 to 24 C atoms and 1 to 6 double bonds,
• Esters of tartaric acid and citric acid with alcohols which are adducts of about 2-15 molecules of ethylene oxide and / or propylene oxide with fatty alcohols containing 8 to 22 carbon atoms,
• Alkyl and / or alkenyl ether phosphates of the formula R ¹ (OCH ₂ CH ₂ ) _n -O- (PO-OX) -OR ² , in the R ^{1 is} preferably an aliphatic hydrocarbon radical having 8 to 30 carbon atoms, R ^{2 is} hydrogen, a radical (CH ₂ CH ₂ O) _n R ² or X, n is from 1 to 10 and X is hydrogen, an alkali metal radical or alkaline earth metal or NR ³ R ⁴ R ⁵ R ⁶ , where R ³ to R ⁶ independently of one another represent hydrogen or a C ₁ to C ₄ -hydrocarbon radical,
• - Sulfated fatty acid alkylene glycol esters of the formula RCO (AlkO) _n SO ₃ M in the RCO- for a linear or branched, aliphatic, saturated and / or unsaturated acyl radical having 6 to 22 carbon atoms, Alk for CH ₂ CH ₂ , CHCH ₃ CH ₂ and / or CH ₂ CHCH ₃ , n is from 0.5 to 5 and M is a metal such as alkali metal, especially sodium, potassium, lithium, alkaline earth metal, especially magnesium, calcium, zinc, or ammonium ion such as ⁺ NR ³ R ⁴ R ⁵ R ⁶ , where R ³ to R ⁶ independently of one another represent hydrogen or a C ¹ to C ⁴ hydrocarbon radical,
• Monoglyceride sulfates and monoglyceride ether sulfates of the formula R ⁸ OC- (OCH ₂ CH ₂ ) _x -OCH ₂ - [CHO (CH ₂ CH ₂ O) _y H] -CH ₂ O (CH ₂ CH ₂ O) _z -SO ₃ X, in which R ⁸ CO is a linear or branched acyl radical having 6 to 22 carbon atoms, x, y and z are in total 0 or numbers of 1 to 30, preferably 2 to 10, and X is an alkali or alkaline earth metal. Typical examples of monoglyceride (ether) sulfates suitable for the purposes of the invention are the reaction products of lauric acid monoglyceride, coconut fatty acid monoglyceride, palmitic acid monoglyceride, stearic acid monoglyceride, oleic acid monoglyceride and tallow fatty acid monoglyceride and their ethylene oxide adducts with sulfur trioxide or chlorosulfonic acid in the form of their sodium salts. Preferably monoglyceride sulfates are used, in which R ⁸ CO is a linear acyl radical having 8 to 18 carbon atoms,
• - Amidethercarbonsäuren, R ¹ -CO-NR ² -CH ₂ CH ₂ -O- (CH ₂ CH ₂ O) _n CH ₂ COOM, with R ¹ as a straight-chain or branched alkyl or alkenyl radical having a number of carbon atoms in the chain of 2 to 30, n is an integer from 1 to 20, and R ² is hydrogen, methyl, ethyl, propyl, isopropyl, n-butyl, t-butyl or iso-butyl, and M is is hydrogen or a metal such as alkali metal, in particular sodium, potassium, lithium, alkaline earth metal, in particular magnesium, calcium, zinc, or an ammonium ion, such as ⁺ NR ³ R ⁴ R ⁵ R ⁶ , with R ³ to R ⁶ independently of one another for hydrogen or a C1 to C4 hydrocarbon radical. Such products are obtainable, for example, by the company Chem Y under the product name Akypo ^®.
• Acylglutamates of the formula XOOC-CH 2 CH 2 CH (C (NH) OR) -COOX in which RCO is a linear or branched acyl radical having 6 to 22 carbon atoms and 0 and / or 1, 2 or 3 double bonds and X is hydrogen, an alkali metal and / or alkaline earth metal, ammonium, alkylammonium, alkanolammonium or glucammonium,
• - Condensation products of a water-soluble salt of a water-soluble protein hydrolyzate with a C8-C30 fatty acid. Such products are available under the trademark Lamepon® ^®, Maypon ^®, Gluadin® ^®, Hostapon® ^® KCG or Amisoft ^® long been commercially.
• Alkyl and / or alkenyl oligoglycoside carboxylates, sulfates, phosphates and / or isethionates,
• Acyl lactylates and
• - Hydroxymix ether sulfates.

If the mild anionic surfactants contain polyglycol ether chains, it is particularly preferred that they have a narrow homolog distribution. Further, in the case of mild anionic surfactants having polyglycol ether units, it is preferable that the number of glycol ether groups is 1 to 20, preferably 2 to 15, more preferably 2 to 12. Particularly mild anionic surfactants having polyglycol ether groups with no restricted homolog distribution can be obtained, for example on the one hand the number of polyglycol ether groups is 4 to 12 and Zn or Mg ions are selected as the counterion. One example is the commercial product Texapon.RTM ^® ASV.

Especially suitable zwitterionic surfactants are the so-called betaines such as the N-alkyl-N, N-dimethylammonium glycinates, for example, the cocoalkyl dimethyl ammonium glycinate, N-acylaminopropyl N, N-dimethyl ammonium glycinates, for example, the Kokosacylaminopropyldimethylammoniumglycinat, and 2-Alkyl-3-carboxymethyl-3-hydroxyethyl-imidazolines each having 8 to 18 carbon atoms in the alkyl or acyl group and Kokosacylaminoethylhydroxyethylcarboxymethylglycinat. A preferred zwitterionic surfactant is that under the INCI name Cocamidopropyl betaine known fatty acid amide derivative.

Ampholytic surfactants (Tampho) are understood as meaning those surface-active compounds which are capable of forming internal salts. Examples of suitable ampholytic surfactants are N-alkylglycines, N-alkylpropionic acids, N-alkylaminobutyric acids, N-alkyliminodipropionic acids, N-hydroxyethyl-N-alkylamidopropylglycines, N-alkyltaurines, N-alkylsarcosines, 2-alkylaminopropionic acids and alkylaminoacetic acids each having about 8 to 24 C Atoms in the alkyl group. Typical examples of amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants are alkylbetaines, alkylamidobetaines, aminopropionates, aminoglycinates, imidazolinium betaines and sulfobetaines. Particularly preferred ampholytic surfactants are N-cocoalkylaminopropionate, cocoacylaminoethylaminopropionate and C ₁₂ -C ₁₈ acylsarcosine.

• – Anlagerungsprodukte von 2 bis 50 Mol Ethylenoxid und/oder 0 bis 5 Mol Propylenoxid an lineare und verzweigte Fettalkohole mit 6 bis 30 C-Atomen, die Fettalkoholpolyglykolether bzw. die Fettalkoholpolypropylenglykolether bzw. gemischte Fettalkoholpolyether,
• – Anlagerungsprodukte von 2 bis 50 Mol Ethylenoxid und/oder 0 bis 5 Mol Propylenoxid an lineare und verzweigte Fettsäuren mit 6 bis 30 C-Atomen, die Fettsäurepolyglykolether bzw. die Fettsäurepolypropylenglykolether bzw. gemischte Fettsäurepolyether,
• – Anlagerungsprodukte von 2 bis 50 Mol Ethylenoxid und/oder 0 bis 5 Mol Propylenoxid an lineare und verzweigte Alkylphenole mit 8 bis 15 C-Atomen in der Alkylgruppe, die Alkylphenolpolyglykolether bzw. die Alkylpolypropylenglykolether, bzw. gemischte Alyklphenolpolyether,
• – mit einem Methyl- oder C₂-C₆-Alkylrest endgruppenverschlossene Anlagerungsprodukte von 2 bis 50 Mol Ethylenoxid und/oder 0 bis 5 Mol Propylenoxid an lineare und verzweigte Fettalkohole mit 8 bis 30 C-Atomen, an Fettsäuren mit 8 bis 30 C-Atomen und an Alkylphenole mit 8 bis 15 C-Atomen in der Alkylgruppe, wie beispielsweise die unter den Verkaufsbezeichnungen Dehydol^® LS, Dehydol^® LT (Cognis) erhältlichen Typen,
• – C₁₂-C₃₀-Fettsäuremono- und -diester von Anlagerungsprodukten von 1 bis 30 Mol Ethylenoxid an Glycerin,
• – Anlagerungsprodukte von 5 bis 60 Mol Ethylenoxid an Rizinusöl und gehärtetes Rizinusöl,
• – Polyolfettsäureester, wie beispielsweise das Handelsprodukt Hydagen^® HSP (Cognis) oder Sovermol^®-Typen (Cognis),
• – alkoxilierte Triglyceride,
• – alkoxilierte Fettsäurealkylester der Formel (Tnio-1) R¹CO-(OCH₂CHR²)_wOR³ (Tnio-1) in der R¹CO für einen linearen oder verzweigten, gesättigten und/oder ungesättigten Acylrest mit 6 bis 22 Kohlenstoffatomen, R² für Wasserstoff oder Methyl, R³ für lineare oder verzweigte Alkylreste mit 1 bis 4 Kohlenstoffatomen und w für Zahlen von 1 bis 20 steht,
• – Aminoxide,
• – Hydroxymischether, R¹O[CH₂CH(CH₃)O]_x(CH₂CHR²O)_y[CH₂CH(OH)R³]_z mit R¹ stehend für einen linearen oder verzweigten, gesättigten oder ungesättigten Alkyl- und/oder Alkenylrest mit 2 bis 30 C-Atomen, R² stehend für Wasserstoff, einen Methyl-, Ethyl-, Propyl- oder iso-Propylrest, R³ stehend für einen linearen oder verzweigten Alkylrest mit 2 bis 30 C-Atomen, x stehend für 0 oder eine Zahl von 1 bis 20, Y für eine Zahl von 1 bis 30 und z stehend für die Zahl 1, 2, 3, 4 oder 5.
• – Sorbitanfettsäureester und Anlagerungeprodukte von Ethylenoxid an Sorbitanfettsäureester wie beispielsweise die Polysorbate,
• – Zuckerfettsäureester und Anlagerungsprodukte von Ethylenoxid an Zuckerfettsäureester,
• – Anlagerungsprodukte von Ethylenoxid an Fettsäurealkanolamide und Fettamine,
• – Zuckertenside vom Typ der Alkyl- und Alkenyloligoglykoside,
• – Zuckertenside vom Typ der Fettsäure-N-alkylpolyhydroxyalkylamide,
• – Fettsäureamidpolyglycolether, Fettaminpolyglycolether,
• – Mischether bzw. Mischformale und Polysorbate.

Nonionic surfactants (Tnio) are for example

• Addition products of 2 to 50 moles of ethylene oxide and / or 0 to 5 moles of propylene oxide onto linear and branched fatty alcohols having 6 to 30 carbon atoms, the fatty alcohol polyglycol ethers or the fatty alcohol polypropyleneglycol ethers or mixed fatty alcohol polyethers,
• Addition products of 2 to 50 moles of ethylene oxide and / or 0 to 5 moles of propylene oxide to linear and branched fatty acids having 6 to 30 carbon atoms, the fatty acid polyglycol ethers or the fatty acid polyethers or mixed fatty acid polyethers,
• Addition products of 2 to 50 mol of ethylene oxide and / or 0 to 5 mol of propylene oxide onto linear and branched alkylphenols having 8 to 15 C atoms in the alkyl group, the alkylphenol polyglycol ethers or the alkylpolypropylene glycol ethers, or mixed alkylpolyolpolyethers,
• - with a methyl or C ₂ -C ₆ alkyl radical end-capped addition products of 2 to 50 moles of ethylene oxide and / or 0 to 5 moles of propylene oxide to linear and branched fatty alcohols having 8 to 30 carbon atoms, to fatty acids having 8 to 30 C atoms and onto alkylphenols having 8 to 15 carbon atoms in the alkyl group, such as those available under the trade names Dehydol ^® LS, LT Dehydol ^® types (Cognis),
• C ₁₂ -C ₃₀ -fatty acid mono- and diesters of addition products of 1 to 30 mol of ethylene oxide with glycerol,
• Adducts of 5 to 60 moles of ethylene oxide with castor oil and hydrogenated castor oil,
• - polyol, such as the commercially available product ^® Hydagen HSP (Cognis) or Sovermol ^® grades (Cognis),
• - alkoxylated triglycerides,
• Alkoxylated fatty acid alkyl esters of the formula (Tnio-1) R ¹ CO- (OCH ₂ CHR ² ) _w OR ³ (Tnio-1) in the R ¹ CO is a linear or branched, saturated and / or unsaturated acyl radical having 6 to 22 carbon atoms, R ^{2 is} hydrogen or methyl, R ^{3 is a} linear or branched alkyl radical having 1 to 4 carbon atoms and w is a number from 1 to 20 stands,
• - amine oxides,
• - Hydroxymischether, R ¹ O [CH ₂ CH (CH ₃ ) O] _x (CH ₂ CHR ² O) _y [CH ₂ CH (OH) R ³ ] _z with R ^{1 is} a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated alkyl R ^{2 is} hydrogen, a methyl, ethyl, propyl or isopropyl radical, R ^{3 is} a linear or branched alkyl radical having 2 to 30 C atoms, x is 0 or a number from 1 to 20, Y is a number from 1 to 30 and z is the number 1, 2, 3, 4 or 5.
• Sorbitan fatty acid esters and adducts of ethylene oxide with sorbitan fatty acid esters such as the polysorbates,
• Sugar fatty acid esters and addition products of ethylene oxide with sugar fatty acid esters,
• Adducts of ethylene oxide with fatty acid alkanolamides and fatty amines,
• - sugar surfactants of the alkyl and alkenyl oligoglycoside type,
• Sugar surfactants of the fatty acid N-alkyl polyhydroxyalkylamide type,
• Fatty acid amide polyglycol ethers, fatty amine polyglycol ethers,
• - Mischether or mixed formals and polysorbates.

Farther is at least one quaternary imidazoline compound as cationic surfactant, d. H. a compound containing a positively charged imidazoline ring has included. The formula I shown below shows the structure of these compounds.

The radicals R independently of one another each represent a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched hydrocarbon radical having a chain length of 8 to 30 carbon atoms. The preferred compounds of the formula I each contain the same hydrocarbon radical for R. The chain length of the radicals R is preferably 12 carbon atoms. Particular preference is given to compounds having a chain length of at least 16 carbon atoms and very particularly preferably having at least 20 carbon atoms. A very particularly preferred compound of the formula I has a chain length of 21 carbon atoms. A product of this chain length is for example under the name Quaternium-91 or the trade names Crodazosoft ^® DBQ, which in addition quaternium-91 further cetrimonium methosulfates and cetearyl alcohol contains, and Crodazosoft ^® SCQ, which in addition to quaternium-91 also PPG-3 benzyl ether myristates , known. In formula I is shown as the counterion methosulfate. However, according to the invention, the counterions also include the halides, such as chloride, fluoride, bromide, or else phosphates. Particularly examples according to the invention are obtainable, for example, under the INCII names Quaternium-27, Quaternium-72, Quaternium-83 and Quaternium-91. On bevorzugtesten the commercial products Crodazosoft ^® DBQ and Crodazosoft ^® SCQ are bezeihungsweise quaternium-91, is used.

The Imidazolines of formula I are in the compositions of the invention in amounts of from 0.01 to 20% by weight, preferably in amounts of from 0.05 to 10 wt .-% and most preferably in amounts of 0.1 to 7.5 Wt .-% included. The best results are with quantities from 0.1 to 5 wt .-% in each case based on the total composition of the respective agent.

Furthermore, the following cationic surfactants according to the formula (Tkat-2) can be used. RCO-XN ⁺ R ¹ R ² R ³ A ^- (Tkat-2)

R here stands for a substituted or unsubstituted, branched or straight-chain alkyl or alkenyl radical having 11 to 35 carbon atoms in the chain,
X is -O- or -NR ⁵ -,
R is an alkylene group having 2 to 6 C atoms, which may be unsubstituted or substituted, in which case substitution with an -OH or -NH group is preferred in the case of a substitution,
R ² , R ³ each independently represent an alkyl or hydroxyalkyl group having 1 to 6 C atoms in the chain, which chain may be straight or branched.

R5 stands for Hydrogen or a C1 to C6 straight-chain or branched, Alkyl or alkenyl radical which also substituted by a hydroxy group can be.

Within this structural class, the compounds of one of the following structures are preferably used: CH ₃ (CH ₂ ) ₂₀ CONH (CH ₂ ) ₃ -N ⁺ (CH ₃ ) ₂ -CH ₂ CH ₃ A ^- (Tkat-3) CH ₃ (CH ₂ ) ₂₀ CONH (CH ₂ ) ₃ -N ⁺ (CH ₃ ) ₂ -CH ₂ (CHOH) CH ₂ OH A ^- (Tkat-4) CH ₃ (CH 2) ₂₀ COOCH ₂ CHOHCH ₂ -N ⁺ (CH ₃ ) ₃ A ^- (Tkat-5) CH ₃ (CH ₂ ) ₂₀ CONH (CH ₂ ) ₃ -N ⁺ (CH ₃ ) ₂ -CH ₂ CH ₂ OH A ^- (Tkat-6)

Examples for such Commercial products are Schercoquat BAS, Lexquat AMG-BEO, Akypoquat 131 or Incroquat Behenyl HE.

Farther can Esterquats according to the formula (Tkat1-2).

• – ein verzweigter oder unverzweigter Alkylrest mit 1 bis 4 Kohlenstoffatomen, welcher mindestens eine Hydroxylgruppe enthalten kann, oder
• – ein gesättigter oder ungesättigter, verzweigter oder unverzweigter oder ein cyclischer gesättigter oder ungesättigter Alkylrest mit 6 bis 30 Kohlenstoffatomen, welcher mindestens eine Hydroxylgruppe enthalten kann, oder
• – ein Aryl oder Alkarylrest, beispielsweise Phenyl oder Benzyl,
• – den Rest (-A-R4), mit der Maßgabe, daß höchstens 2 der Reste R1, R2 oder R3 für diesen Rest stehen können:

Here, the radicals R1, R2 and R3 are each independently and may be the same or different. The radicals R1, R2 and R3 mean:

• A branched or unbranched alkyl radical having 1 to 4 carbon atoms which may contain at least one hydroxyl group, or
• A saturated or unsaturated, branched or unbranched or cyclic saturated or unsaturated alkyl radical having from 6 to 30 carbon atoms which may contain at least one hydroxyl group, or
• An aryl or alkaryl radical, for example phenyl or benzyl,
• - the radical (-A-R4), with the proviso that at most 2 of the radicals R1, R2 or R3 may be this radical:

Of the Rest - (A-R4) is included at least 1 to 3 times.

• 1) -(CH2)n- mit n = 1 bis 20, vorzugsweise n = 1 bis 10 und besonders bevorzugt n = 1–5, oder
• 2) -(CH2-CHR5-O)n- mit n = 1 bis 200, vorzugsweise 1 bis 100, besonders bevorzugt 1 bis 50, und besonders bevorzugt 1 bis 20 mit R5 in der Bedeutung von Wasserstoff, Methyl oder Ethyl,

und R4 steht für:

• 1) R6-O-CO-, worin R6 einen gesättigten oder ungesättigten, verzweigten oder unverzweigten oder einen cyclischen gesättigten oder ungesättigten Alkylrest mit 6 bis 30 Kohlenstoffatomen ist, welcher mindestens eine Hydroxygruppe enthalten kann, und welcher gegebenenfalls weiterhin mit 1 bis 100 Ethylenoxideinheiten und/oder 1 bis 100 Propylenoxideinheiten oxethyliert sein kann, oder
• 2) R7-CO-, worin R7 einen gesättigten oder ungesättigten, verzweigten oder unverzweigten oder einen cyclischen gesättigten oder ungesättigten Alkylrest mit 6 bis 30 Kohlenstoffatomen ist, welcher mindestens eine Hydroxygruppe enthalten kann, und welcher gegebenenfalls weiterhin mit 1 bis 100 Ethylenoxideinheiten und/oder 1 bis 100 Propylenoxideinheiten oxethyliert sein kann,

und Q steht für ein physiologisch verträgliches organisches oder anorganisches Anion.Herein A stands for:

• 1) - (CH 2) n - with n = 1 to 20, preferably n = 1 to 10 and particularly preferably n = 1-5, or
• 2) - (CH 2 -CHR 5 -O) n - where n = 1 to 200, preferably 1 to 100, particularly preferably 1 to 50, and particularly preferably 1 to 20 with R 5 in the meaning of hydrogen, methyl or ethyl,

and R4 stands for:

• 1) R 6 -O-CO-, wherein R 6 is a saturated or unsaturated, branched or unbranched or cyclic saturated or unsaturated alkyl radical having 6 to 30 carbon atoms, which may contain at least one hydroxy group, and which optionally further with 1 to 100 ethylene oxide units and or 1 to 100 propylene oxide units may be ethoxylated, or
• 2) R 7 -CO-, wherein R 7 is a saturated or unsaturated, branched or unbranched or cyclic saturated or unsaturated alkyl radical having 6 to 30 carbon atoms, which may contain at least one hydroxy group, and which optionally further with 1 to 100 ethylene oxide units and / or 1 to 100 propylene oxide units can be ethoxylated,

and Q is a physiologically acceptable organic or inorganic anion.

Such products are marketed under the trademarks Rewoquat ^®, Stepantex® ^{®, ®} and Dehyquart® Armocare® ^®. The products Armocare ^® VGH-70, a N, N-bis (2-palmitoyloxyethyl) dimethylammonium chloride, as well as Dehyquart ^® F-75, Dehyquart ^® C-4046, Dehyquart ^® L80, Dehyquart ^® F-30, Dehyquart ^® AU 35, Rewoquat ^® WE18, Rewoquat WE38 ^® DPG and Stepantex ^® VS 90 are examples of such esterquats.

Further particularly according to the invention preferred compounds of the formula (Tkat1-2) belong to the formula (Tkat1-2.1), the cationic betaine esters.

R8 corresponds in its meaning R7.

When additional ingredient can Monoalkyltrimethylammonium salts with a chain length of Alkyl radicals of 16 to 24 carbon atoms may be included.

These compounds have the structure shown in the formula (Tkat1-1)

In which R1, R2 and R3 for each represents a methyl group and R4 is a saturated, branched or unbranched Alkyl radical with one chain length from 16 to 24 carbon atoms. Examples of compounds of the formula (Tkat1-1) are cetyltrimethylammonium chloride, cetyltrimethylammonium bromide, Cetyltrimethylammonium methosulfate, stearyltrimethylammonium chloride, Behenyltrimethylammonium chloride, behenyltrimethylammonium bromide and behenyl trimethyl ammonium methosulfate.

In a particularly preferred embodiment of the invention, the compositions according to the invention furthermore comprise at least one amine and / or cationized amine, in particular an amidoamine and / or a cationized amidoamine having the following structural formulas: R ¹ -NH- (CH ₂ ) _n -NR ² R ³ (Tkat 7) and or R ¹ -NH- (CH ₂ ) _n -NR ² R ³ R ⁴ (Tkat8) wherein R1 is an acyl or alkyl radical having 6 to 30 carbon atoms, which may be branched or unbranched, saturated or unsaturated, and wherein the acyl radical and / or the alkyl radical may contain at least one OH group, and
R 2, R 3 and R 4 are each independently of one another hydrogen or an alkyl radical having 1 to 4 C atoms, which may be identical or different, saturated or unsaturated, and
X ^- an anion and
n is an integer between 1 and 10.

Prefers is a composition in which the amine and / or the quaternized Amine according to more general Formulas (Tkat7) and / or (Tkat8) an amidoamine and / or a quaternized Amidoamine is where R1 is a branched or unbranched, more saturated or unsaturated Acyl radical having 6 to 30 carbon atoms, which is at least one OH group may contain. Preference is given here to a fatty acid radical from oils and waxing, especially from natural oils and waxes. As examples therefor Consider lanolin, bee or candellila waxes.

Also preferred are those amidoamines and / or quaterized amidoamines in which R2, R3 and / or R4 in formulas (Tkat7) and / or (Tkat8) are a radical according to the general formula CH ₂ CH ₂ OR 5, where R 5 is the meaning of alkyl radicals having 1 to 4 carbon atoms, hydroxyethyl or hydrogen. The preferred size of n in the general formulas (Tkat7) and / or (Tkat8) is an integer between 2 and 5.

Also preferred are amidoamines and / or quaternized amidoamines of the general formulas (Tkat7) and / or (Tkat8) in which the anion X ^{- is} a halide ion or a compound of the general formula RSO ₃ ^- , where R is the meaning of saturated or unsaturated alkyl radicals having 1 to 4 carbon atoms.

The alkyl radical having 1 to 4 carbon atoms of R 2, R 3 and R 4 and / or the alkyl radical having 1 to 4 carbon atoms of RSO ₃ ^- in the general formula (Tkat7) and / or (Tkat8) may contain at least one hydroxyl group.

The Alkylamidoamines can both present as such and by protonation in correspondingly acidic solution in a quaternary Compound be transferred in the composition. According to the invention preferred are the cationic alkylamidoamines.

When to be used according to the invention Amidoamines, which may be quaternized if necessary, come for example, as amidoamines: Witcamine 100 (Witco, INCI name: Cocamidopropyl dimethylamine), Incromine BB (Croda, INCI name: Behenamidopropyl dimethylamine), Mackine 401 (Mclntyre, INCI name: Isostearylamidopropyl dimethylamine) and other mackin types, Adogen S18V (Witco, INCI name: Stearylamidopropyl dimethylamine), and as permanent cationic aminoamines: Rewoquat RTM 50 (Witco Surfactants GmbH, INCI name: Ricinoleamidopropyltrimonium Methosulfate), Empigen CSC (Albright & Wilson, INCI name: Cocamidopropyltrimonium chloride), Swanol Lanoquat DES-50 (Nikko, INCI name: Quaternium-33), Rewoquat UTM 50 (Witco Surfactants GmbH, Undecyleneamidopropyltrimonium Methosulfate).

The anion of all cationic compounds is selected from the physiologically acceptable anions. Examples of these are the halide ions, fluoride, chloride, bromide, sulfate of the general formula RSO ₃ ^- , in which R has the meaning of saturated or unsaturated alkyl radicals having 1 to 4 carbon atoms, or anionic radicals of organic acids such as maleate, fumarate, oxalate, tartrate, Citrate, lactate or acetate, called.

The The aforementioned cationic surfactants may be used individually or in any desired Combinations are used together, with quantities between 0.01 to 20 wt .-%, preferably in amounts of 0.01 to 10 wt .-% and very particularly preferably in amounts of from 0.1 to 7.5% by weight. The best results are achieved with amounts of 0.1 to 5 % By weight, based in each case on the total composition of the respective Received by means.

The Surfactants (T) are used in amounts of 0.05-45% by weight, preferably 0.1-30% by weight. and most preferably from 0.5 to 25% by weight, based on the entire used in the invention Medium, used.

Highly preferred Compositions containing the active ingredient combination (A) according to the invention are characterized in that it further comprises at least one native oil or at least an ester oil or at least one silicone oil or at least one polymer.

Ester oils are understood as meaning the esters of C ₆ -C ₃₀ -fatty acids with C ₂ -C ₃₀ -fatty alcohols. The monoesters of the fatty acids with alcohols having 2 to 24 carbon atoms are preferred. Examples of fatty acid components used in the esters are caproic acid, caprylic acid, 2-ethylhexanoic acid, capric acid, lauric acid, isotridecanoic acid, myristic acid, palmitic acid, palmitoleic acid, stearic acid, isostearic acid, oleic acid, elaidic acid, petroselinic acid, linoleic acid, linolenic acid, elaeostearic acid, arachidic acid, gadoleic acid, behenic acid and Erucic acid and its technical mixtures. Examples of the fatty alcohol components in the ester oils are isopropyl alcohol, caproic alcohol, capryl alcohol, 2-ethylhexyl alcohol, capric alcohol, lauryl alcohol, isotridecyl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, palmoleyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, elaidyl alcohol, petroselinyl alcohol, linolyl alcohol, linolenyl alcohol, elaeostearyl alcohol, arachyl alcohol, gadoleyl alcohol, Behenyl alcohol, erucyl alcohol and brassidyl alcohol and their technical mixtures. According to the invention, particularly preferred are isopropyl myristate (IPM Rilanit ^®), isononanoic acid C16-18 alkyl ester (Cetiol ^® SN), 2-ethylhexyl palmitate (Cegesoft ^® 24), stearic acid-2-ethylhexyl ester (Cetiol ^® 868), cetyl oleate, glycerol tricaprylate, Kokosfettalkohol- caprate / caprylate (Cetiol ^® LC), n-butyl stearate, oleyl erucate (Cetiol ^® J 600), isopropyl palmitate (IPP Rilanit ^®), oleyl Oleate (Cetiol ^®), hexyl laurate (Cetiol ^® A), di-n-butyl adipate (Cetiol ^® B), myristyl myristate (Cetiol ^® MM), cetearyl isononanoate (Cetiol ^® SN), oleic acid decyl ester (Cetiol ^® V). Of course, the ester oils may also be alkoxylated with ethylene oxide, propylene oxide, or mixtures of ethylene oxide and propylene oxide. The alkoxylation can be found both on the fatty alcohol part and on the fatty acid part and on both parts of the ester oils. However, preference is given according to the invention if the fatty alcohol was first alkoxylated and then esterified with fatty acid. In the formula (D4-II), these compounds are generally shown.

R 1 is a saturated or unsaturated, branched or unbranched, cyclic saturated cyclic unsaturated acyl radical having 6 to 30 carbon atoms, AO is ethylene oxide, propylene oxide or butylene oxide,
X is a number between 1 and 200, preferably 1 and 100, more preferably between 1 and 50, most preferably between 1 and 20, most preferably between 1 and 10 and most preferably between 1 and 5,
R 2 represents a saturated or unsaturated, branched or unbranched cyclic saturated cyclic unsaturated alkyl, alkenyl, alkynyl, phenyl or benzyl radical having from 6 to 30 carbon atoms. Examples of fatty acid moieties used as radical R1 in the esters are caproic acid, caprylic acid, 2-ethylhexanoic acid, capric acid, lauric acid, isotridecanoic acid, myristic acid, palmitic acid, palmitoleic acid, stearic acid, isostearic acid, oleic acid, elaidic acid, petroselinic acid, linoleic acid, linolenic acid, elaeostearic acid, arachidic acid, gadoleic acid , Behenic acid and erucic acid and their technical mixtures. Examples of the fatty alcohol moieties R2 in the ester oils are benzyl alcohol, isopropyl alcohol, caproic alcohol, capryl alcohol, 2-ethylhexyl alcohol, capric alcohol, lauryl alcohol, isotridecyl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, palmoleyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, elaidyl alcohol, petroselinyl alcohol, linolyl alcohol, linolenyl alcohol, elaeostearyl alcohol , Arachyl alcohol, gadoleyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, erucyl alcohol and brassidyl alcohol and their technical mixtures. A particularly preferred ester oil according to the invention is obtainable, for example, under the INCI name PPG-3 benzyl ether myristate.

• – Dicarbonsäureester wie Di-n-butyladipat, Di-(2-ethylhexyl)-adipat, Di-(2-ethylhexyl)-succinat und Di-isotridecylacelaat sowie Diolester wie Ethylenglykol-dioleat, Ethylenglykol-di-isotridecanoat, Propylenglykol-di(2-ethylhexanoat), Propylenglykol-di-isostearat, Propylenglykol-di-pelargonat, Butandiol-di-isostearat, Neopentylglykoldicaprylat, sowie
• – symmetrische, unsymmetrische oder cyclische Ester der Kohlensäure mit Fettalkoholen, beispielsweise Glycerincarbonat oder Dicaprylylcarbonat (Cetiol^® CC),
• – Trifettsäureester von gesättigten und/oder ungesättigten linearen und/oder verzweigten Fettsäuren mit Glycerin,
• – Fettsäurepartialglyceride, das sind Monoglyceride, Diglyceride und deren technische Gemische. Typische Beispiele sind Mono- und/oder Diglyceride auf Basis von Capronsäure, Caprylsäure, 2-Ethylhexansäure, Caprinsäure, Laurinsäure, Isotridecansäure, Myristinsäure, Palmitinsäure, Palmoleinsäure, Stearinsäure, Isostearinsäure, Ölsäure, Elaidinsäure, Petroselinsäure, Linolsäure, Linolensäure, Elaeostearinsäure, Arachinsäure, Gadoleinsäure, Behensäure und Erucasäure sowie deren technische Mischungen. Vorzugsweise werden Ölsäuremonoglyceride eingesetzt.

Furthermore, ester oils are to be understood as meaning:

• Dicarboxylic acid esters such as di-n-butyl adipate, di- (2-ethylhexyl) adipate, di- (2-ethylhexyl) succinate and di-isotridecyl acelate, and diol esters such as ethylene glycol dioleate, ethylene glycol diisotridecanoate, propylene glycol di (2 ethylhexanoate), propylene glycol diisostearate, propylene glycol di-pelargonate, butanediol diisostearate, neopentyl glycol dicaprylate, and the like
• - symmetrical, asymmetrical or cyclic esters of carbonic acid with fatty alcohols, for example glycerol carbonate or dicaprylyl carbonate (Cetiol ^® CC),
• Triflic acid esters of saturated and / or unsaturated linear and / or branched fatty acids with glycerol,
• - fatty acid partial glycerides, ie monoglycerides, diglycerides and their technical mixtures. Typical examples are mono- and / or diglycerides based on caproic acid, caprylic acid, 2-ethylhexanoic acid, capric acid, lauric acid, isotridecanoic acid, myristic acid, palmitic acid, palmitoleic acid, stearic acid, isostearic acid, oleic acid, elaidic acid, petroselinic acid, linoleic acid, linolenic acid, elaeostearic acid, arachidic acid, Gadoleic acid, behenic acid and erucic acid and their technical mixtures. Preferably, oleic acid monoglycerides are used.

The Esteröle be in the inventive compositions in an amount of 0.01 to 20% by weight, preferably 0.01 to 10.0% by weight, more preferably 0.01 to 7.5% by weight, most preferably from 0.1 to 5.0 wt .-% used. Of course, it is possible according to the invention also several Esteröle to use at the same time.

• – pflanzliche Öle. Beispiele für solche Öle sind Sonnenblumenöl, Olivenöl, Sojaöl, Rapsöl, Mandelöl, Jojobaöl, Orangenöl, Weizenkeimöl, Pfirsichkernöl und die flüssigen Anteile des Kokosöls. Geeignet sind aber auch andere Triglyceridöle wie die flüssigen Anteile des Rindertalgs sowie synthetische Triglyceridöle.
• – flüssige Paraffinöle, Isoparaffinöle und synthetische Kohlenwasserstoffe sowie Di-n-alkylether mit insgesamt zwischen 12 bis 36 C-Atomen, insbesondere 12 bis 24 C-Atomen, wie beispielsweise Di-n-octylether, Di-n-decylether, Di-n-nonylether, Di-n-undecylether, Di-n-dodecylether, n-Hexyl-n-octylether, n-Octyl-n-decylether, n-Decyl-n-undecylether, n-Undecyl-n-dodecylether und n-Hexyl-n-Undecylether sowie Di-tert-butylether, Di-iso-pentylether, Di-3-ethyldecylether, tert.-Butyl-n-octylether, iso-Pentyl-n-octylether und 2-Methyl-pentyl-n-octylether. Die als Handelsprodukte erhältlichen Verbindungen 1,3-Di-(2-ethyl-hexyl)-cyclohexan (Cetiol^® S) und Di-n-octylether (Cetiol^® OE) können bevorzugt sein.

Furthermore, natural oils can additionally be used with the material combination (A) according to the invention. The natural oils may also be waxy or solid at room temperature. Preferably, these oils, oil bodies, a melting point less than 50 ° C, more preferably less than 45 ° C, most preferably less than 40 ° C, most preferably less than 35 ° C and most preferably the cosmetic oils are smaller at a temperature flowable at 30 ° C. Under the natural oils according to the invention are also understood synthetic oils such as hydrocarbons. In the following, these oils are defined and described in more detail. For example, the oils according to the invention include:

• - vegetable oils. Examples of such oils are sunflower oil, olive oil, soybean oil, rapeseed oil, almond oil, jojoba oil, orange oil, wheat germ oil, peach kernel oil and the liquid portions of coconut oil. Also suitable, however, are other triglyceride oils such as the liquid portions of beef tallow as well as synthetic triglyceride oils.
• Liquid paraffin oils, isoparaffin oils and synthetic hydrocarbons and di-n-alkyl ethers having a total of from 12 to 36 carbon atoms, in particular 12 to 24 carbon atoms, such as, for example, di-n-octyl ether, di-n-decyl ether, di-n- nonyl ether, di-n-undecyl ether, di-n-dodecyl ether, n-hexyl n-octyl ether, n-octyl n-decyl ether, n-decyl n-undecyl ether, n-undecyl n-dodecyl ether and n-hexyl n-undecyl ether and di-tert-butyl ether, di-iso-pentyl ether, di-3-ethyldecyl ether, tert-butyl n-octyl ether, iso-pentyl n-octyl ether and 2-methyl-pentyl-n-octyl ether. The compounds are available as commercial products 1,3-di- (2-ethyl-hexyl) -cyclohexane (Cetiol ^® S), and di-n-octyl ether (Cetiol ^® OE) may be preferred.

When natural oils come for example, amaranth seed oil, Apricot kernel oil, Argan oil, Avocado oil, babassu oil, cottonseed oil, borage seed oil, camelina oil, safflower oil, peanut oil, pomegranate seed oil, grapefruit seed oil, hemp oil, hazelnut oil, elderflower seed oil, currant seed oil, jojoba oil, cocoa butter, Linseed oil, macadamia nut oil, Corn oil, Almond oil, marula oil, Evening primrose oil, Olive oil, Palm oil, Rapeseed oil, Rice bran oil, Sea buckthorn oil, Sea buckthorn seed oil, Sesame oil, Shea butter, soybean oil, Sunflower oil, Grape seed oil, Walnut oil or wild rose oil according to the invention into consideration.

The be natural oils in the inventive compositions in an amount of 0.01 to 20% by weight, preferably 0.01 to 10.0% by weight, more preferably 0.01 to 7.5% by weight, most preferably from 0.1 to 5.0 wt .-% used. Of course, it is possible according to the invention also several of natural oils at the same time to use.

When other highest preferred ingredient for increasing the effect of the active ingredient complex (A) contain the agents of the invention preferably at least one silicone polymer selected from the group of dimethiconols and / or the group of amino-functional silicones and / or the Group of dimethicones and / or the group of cyclomethicones. These Ingredients are described below.

The dimethicones according to the invention can be both linear and branched as well as cyclic or cyclic and branched. Linear dimethicones can be represented by the following structural formula (Si1): (SiR ¹ ₃ ) -O- (SiR ² ₂ -O-) _x - (SiR ¹ ₃ ) (Si ¹ )

Branched dimethicones can be represented by the structural formula (Si1.1):

The radicals R ¹ and R ² are each independently hydrogen, a methyl radical, a C ² to C 30 linear, saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon radical, a phenyl radical and / or an aryl radical. The numbers x, y and z are integers and each run independently from 0 to 50,000. The molecular weights of the dimethicones are between 1000 D and 10,000,000 D. The viscosities are between 100 and 10,000,000 cPs measured at 25 ° C. with the aid of a glass capillary viscometer according to the Dow Corning Corporate Test Method CTM 0004 of 20 July 1970. Preferred viscosities are between 1,000 and 5,000,000 cPs, most preferred viscosities are between 10,000 and 3,000,000 cps. The most preferred range is between 50,000 and 2,000,000 cps. Most preferred are viscosities around the range of about 60,000 cps. For example, reference is made here to the product "Dow Corning 200 with 60000 cSt".

Particularly preferred cosmetic or dermatological preparations according to the invention are characterized in that they contain at least one silicone of the formula (Si1.2) (CH ₃ ) ₃ Si [O-Si (CH ₃ ) ₂ ] _x -O-Si (CH ₃ ) ₃ (Si 1.2), in which x is a number from 0 to 100, preferably from 0 to 50, more preferably from 0 to 20 and in particular 0 to 10.

The Dimethicones (Si1) are present in amounts in the compositions according to the invention from 0.01 to 10% by weight, preferably 0.01 to 8% by weight, especially preferably 0.1 to 7.5 wt .-% and in particular 0.1 to 5 wt .-% based included on the entire composition.

Particularly preferred agents according to the invention contain one or more amino-functional silicones. Such silicones may, for. By the formula (Si-2) M (R _a Q _b SiO _{(4-ab) / 2} ) _x (R _c SiO _{(4-c) / 2} ) _y M (Si-2) Be described, taking in the above formula
R is a hydrocarbon or a hydrocarbon radical having 1 to about 6 carbon atoms,
Q is a polar radical of the general formula -R ¹ HZ,
wherein
R ^{1 is} a divalent linking group bonded to hydrogen and the radical Z together consists of carbon and hydrogen atoms, carbon, hydrogen and oxygen atoms or carbon, hydrogen and nitrogen atoms, and
Z is an organic, amino-functional group containing at least one amino-functional group;
a assumes values in the range of about 0 to about 2,
b takes values in the range of about 1 to about 3,
a + b is less than or equal to 3, and
c is a number in the range of about 1 to about 3, and
x is a number ranging from 1 to about 2,000, preferably from about 3 to about 50, and most preferably from about 3 to about 25, and
y is a number ranging from about 20 to about 10,000, preferably from about 125 to about 10,000, and most preferably from about 150 to about 1,000, and
M is a suitable silicone end group, as is known in the art, preferably trimethylsiloxy.

Z is according to formula (Si-2) an organic, amino-functional radical containing at least one functional amino group. A possible formula for said Z is NH (CH ₂ ) _z NH ₂ , where z is an integer greater than or equal to 1. Another possible formula for said Z is -NH (CH ₂ ) _z (CH ₂ ) _zz NH, wherein both z and zz independently of one another are an integer greater than or equal to 1, this structure comprising diamino ring structures, such as piperazinyl. Said Z is most preferably an -NHCH ₂ CH ₂ NH ₂ radical. Another possible formula for said Z is -N (CH ₂ ) _z (CH ₂ ) _zz NX ₂ or -NX ₂ , wherein each X of X _{2 is} independently selected from the group consisting of hydrogen and alkyl groups of 1 to 12 carbon atoms, and zz is 0. Q according to formula (Si-2) is most preferably a polar amino-functional radical of formula -CH ₂ CH ₂ CH ₂ NHCH ₂ CH ₂ NH ₂ .

In of formula (Si-2) adopts a values in the range of 0 to 2, b decreases Values ranging from 2 to 3, a + b is less than or equal to 3, and c is a number in the range of 1 to 3. According to the invention are suitable cationic silicone oils such as the commercially available Dow Corning products (DC) 929 Emulsion, DC 2-2078, DC 5-7113, SM-2059 (General Electric) as well as SLM-55067 (Wacker).

enthalten, worin m und n Zahlen sind, deren Summe (m + n) zwischen 1 und 2000, vorzugsweise zwischen 50 und 150 beträgt, wobei n vorzugsweise Werte von 0 bis 1999 und insbesondere von 49 bis 149 und m vorzugsweise Werte von 1 bis 2000, insbesondere von 1 bis 10 annimmt.Particularly preferred agents according to the invention are characterized in that they contain at least one amino-functional silicone of the formula (Si 3-a)

in which m and n are numbers whose sum (m + n) is between 1 and 2000, preferably between 50 and 150, where n preferably values of 0 to 1999 and in particular of 49 to 149 and m preferably values of 1 to 2000 , in particular from 1 to 10 assumes.

These Silicones are classified as trimethylsilylamodimethicones according to the INCI declaration and are for example under the name Q2-7224 (Manufacturer: Dow Corning, a stabilized trimethylsilylamodimethicone) available.

enthalten, worin
R für -OH, eine (gegebenenfalls ethoxylierte und/oder propoxylierte) (C₁ bis C₂₀)-Alkoxygruppe oder eine -CH₃-Gruppe steht,
R' für -OH, eine (C₁ bis C₂₀)-Alkoxygruppe oder eine -CH₃-Gruppe und
m, n1 und n2 Zahlen sind, deren Summe (m + n1 + n2) zwischen 1 und 2000, vorzugsweise zwischen 50 und 150 beträgt, wobei die Summe (n1 + n2) vorzugsweise Werte von 0 bis 1999 und insbesondere von 49 bis 149 und m vorzugsweise Werte von 1 bis 2000, insbesondere von 1 bis 10 annimmt.Particular preference is also given to compositions according to the invention which contain at least one amino-functional silicone of the formula (Si-3b)

contain, in which
R is -OH, an (optionally ethoxylated and / or propoxylated) (C ₁ to C ₂₀ ) alkoxy group or a -CH ₃ group,
R 'is -OH, a (C ₁ to C ₂₀ ) alkoxy group or a -CH ₃ group and
m, n1 and n2 are numbers whose sum (m + n1 + n2) is between 1 and 2000, preferably between 50 and 150, the sum (n1 + n2) preferably having values from 0 to 1999 and in particular from 49 to 149 and m preferably assumes values of from 1 to 2000, in particular from 1 to 10.

These silicones are according to the INCI declaration as amodimethicone, or as functionalized Amodimethicones, such as, for example, bis (C13-15 alkoxy) PG amodimethicones (available, for example, as a commercial product: DC 8500 from Dow Corning), trideceth-9 PG amodimethicones (available, for example, as the commercial product Silcare silicones SEA from Clariant). Suitable diquaternary silicones are selected from compounds of the general formula (Si3c) [R ¹ R ² R ³ N ⁺ -A-SiR ⁷ R ⁸ - (O-SiR ⁹ R ¹⁰ ) _n -O-SiR ¹¹ R ¹² -AN ⁺ R ⁴ R ⁵ R ⁶ ] 2X ^- (Si 3c) where the radicals R 1 to R 6 independently of one another are C 1 to C 22 -alkyl radicals which may contain hydroxyl groups and where preferably at least one of the radicals has at least 8 C atoms and the remaining radicals have 1 to 4 C atoms, the radicals R 7 to R 12 are independently the same or different and are C1 to C10 alkyl or phenyl, A is a divalent organic linking group, n is a number from 0 to 200, preferably from 10 to 120, most preferably from 10 to 40, and X ^- a Anion is.

The divalent linking group is preferably a C1 to C12 alkylene or alkoxyalkylene group which may be substituted with one or more hydroxyl groups. Particularly preferred is the group - (CH ₂ ) ₃ -O-CH ₂ -CH (OH) -CH ₂ -.

The anion X ^- can be a halide ion, an acetate, an organic carboxylate or a compound of the general formula RSO ₃ ^- , in which R has the meaning of C 1 - to C 4 -alkyl radicals.

A preferred diquaternary silicone has the general formula (Si3d) [RN ⁺ Me ₂ -A- (SiMe ₂ O) _n -SiMe ₂ -AN ⁺ Me ₂ R] 2CH ₃ COO ^- (Si 3d), where A is the group - (CH ₂ ) ₃ -O-CH ₂ -CH (OH) -CH ₂ -,
R is an alkyl radical having at least 8 C atoms and n is a number from 10 to 120.

Suitable silicone polymers having two terminal quaternary ammonium groups are known under the INCI name Quaternium-80. These are dimethylsiloxanes with two terminal trialkylammonium groups. Such diquaternary polydimethylsiloxanes are marketed by Evonik under the trade names Abil ^® Quat 3270, 3272 and 3474th Cosmetic or dermatological preparations which are preferred according to the invention are characterized in that, based on their weight, they contain 0.01 to 10% by weight, preferably 0.01 to 8% by weight, particularly preferably 0.1 to 7.5% by weight. % and in particular 0.2 to 5 wt.% of amino-functional silicone (s) and / or diquaternary silicone.

As a silicone, the compositions of the invention may contain at least one polyammonium-polysiloxane compound. The polyammonium-polysiloxane compounds may be obtained for example under the trade name Baysilone® ^® GE Bayer Silicones. The products named Baysilone TP 3911, SME 253 and SFE 839 are preferred. Very particular preference is given to the use of Baysilone TP 3911 as the active component of the compositions according to the invention. The polyammonium-polysiloxane compounds are very particularly preferred in the compositions according to the invention in an amount of from 0.01 to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.01 to 7.5, particularly preferably from 0.01 to 5.0% by weight from 0.05 to 2.5% by weight each based on the total composition.

enthalten, in der x für eine Zahl von 3 bis 200, vorzugsweise von 3 bis 10, weiter bevorzugt von 3 bis 7 und insbesondere 3, 4, 5 oder 6, steht. Erfindungsgemäß ebenfalls bevorzugte Mittel sind dadurch gekennzeichnet, dass sie mindestens ein Silikon der Formel (Si-5) R₃Si-[O-SiR₂]_x-(CH₂)_n-[O-SiR₂]_y-O-SiR₃ (Si-5), enthalten, in der R für gleiche oder verschiedene Reste aus der Gruppe -H, -Phenyl, -Benzyl, -CH₂-CH(CH₃)Ph, der C_1-20-Alkylreste, vorzugsweise -CH₃, -CH₂CH₃, -CH₂CH₂CH₃, -CH(CH₃)₂, -CH₂CH₂CH₂H₃, -CH₂CH(CH₃)₂, -CH(CH₃)CH₂CH₃, -C(CH₃)₃, steht, x bzw. y für eine Zahl von 0 bis 200, vorzugsweise von 0 bis 10, weiter bevorzugt von 0 bis 7 und insbesondere 0, 1, 2, 3, 4, 5 oder 6, stehen, und n für eine Zahl von 0 bis 10, bevorzugt von 1 bis 8 und insbesondere für 2, 3, 4, 5, 6 steht.The cyclic dimethicones designated as cyclomethicones according to INCI are also preferably used according to the invention. Here, cosmetic or dermatological preparations according to the invention are preferred which contain at least one silicone of the formula (Si-4)

in which x is a number from 3 to 200, preferably from 3 to 10, more preferably from 3 to 7 and in particular 3, 4, 5 or 6 stands. Agents which are likewise preferred according to the invention are characterized in that they contain at least one silicone of the formula (Si-5) R ₃ Si [O-SiR ₂ ] _x - (CH ₂ ) _n - [O-SiR ₂ ] _y -O-SiR ₃ (Si-5), in which R is identical or different radicals from the group -H, -phenyl, -benzyl, -CH ₂ -CH (CH ₃ ) Ph, the C _1-20 -alkyl radicals, preferably -CH ₃ , -CH ₂ CH ₃ , -CH ₂ CH ₂ CH ₃ , -CH (CH ₃ ) ₂ , -CH ₂ CH ₂ CH ₂ H ₃ , -CH ₂ CH (CH ₃ ) ₂ , -CH (CH ₃ ) CH ₂ CH ₃ , - C (CH ₃ ) ₃ , x and y are a number from 0 to 200, preferably from 0 to 10, more preferably from 0 to 7 and especially 0, 1, 2, 3, 4, 5 or 6, stand and n is a number from 0 to 10, preferably from 1 to 8 and in particular from 2, 3, 4, 5, 6.

When further silicones in addition to the dimethicones according to the invention, dimethiconols, Amodimethicones and / or cyclomethicones can be water-soluble silicones in the compositions of the invention be included.

Appropriate hydrophilic silicones are, for example, from the compounds of Formulas (Si-6) and / or (Si-7) is selected. Especially preferred water-soluble Silicone-based surfactants are selected from the group of dimethicone copolyols which is preferably alkoxylated, in particular polyethoxylated or polypropoxylated are.

worin der Rest R steht für ein Wasserstoffatom, eine Alkylgruppe mit 1 bis 12 C-Atomen, eine Alkoxygruppe mit 1 bis 12 C-Atomen oder eine Hydroxylgruppe, die Reste R' und R'' bedeuten Alkylgruppen mit 1 bis 12 C-Atomen, x steht für eine ganze Zahl von 1 bis 100, bevorzugt von 20 bis 30, y steht für eine ganze Zahl von 1 bis 20, bevorzugt von 2 bis 10 und a und b stehen für ganze Zahlen von 0 bis 50, bevorzugt von 10 bis 30.Dimethicone copolyols are understood according to the invention as meaning preferably polyoxyalkylene-modified dimethylpolysiloxanes of the general formulas (Si-6) or (Si-7):

in which the radical R is a hydrogen atom, an alkyl group having 1 to 12 C atoms, an alkoxy group having 1 to 12 C atoms or a hydroxyl group, the radicals R 'and R "are alkyl groups having 1 to 12 C atoms, x is an integer from 1 to 100, preferably from 20 to 30, y is an integer from 1 to 20, preferably from 2 to 10, and a and b are integers from 0 to 50, preferably from 10 to 30th

Especially Preferred dimethicone copolyols according to the invention are, for example commercially available under the trade name SILWET (Union Carbide Corporation) and DOW CORNING distributed products. Particularly according to the invention preferred dimethicone copolyols are Dow Corning 190 and Dow Corning 193.

The dimethicone copolyols are present in the compositions according to the invention in amounts of from 0.01 to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.01 to 8% by weight, particularly preferably from 0.1 to 7.5% by weight and in particular from 0.1 to 5 wt .-% of dimethicone copolyol based on the composition. Finally, among the silicone compounds Dimethiconole (Si8) understood. The dimethiconols according to the invention can be both linear and branched as well as cyclic or cyclic and branched. Linear dimethiconols can be represented by the following structural formula (Si8-I): (SiOHR ¹ ₂ ) -O- (SiR ² ₂ -O-) _x - (SiOHR ¹ ₂ ) (Si 8 -I)

Branched dimethiconols can be represented by the structural formula (Si8-II):

The radicals R ¹ and R ² are each independently hydrogen, a methyl radical, a C ² to C 30 linear, saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon radical, a phenyl radical and / or an aryl radical. The numbers x, y and z are integers and each run independently from 0 to 50,000. The molecular weights of the dimethiconols are between 1000 D and 10,000,000 D. The viscosities are between 100 and 10,000,000 cPs measured at 25 ° C. with the aid of a glass capillary viscometer according to the Dow Corning Corporate Test Method CTM 0004 of 20 July 1970. Preferred viscosities are between 1,000 and 5,000,000 cPs, most preferred viscosities are between 10,000 and 3,000,000 cps. The most preferred range is between 50,000 and 2,000,000 cps.

When examples for Such products are called the following commercial products: Dow Corning 1-1254 Fluid, Dow Corning 2-9023 Fluid, Dow Corning 2-9026 Fluid, Abil OSW 5 (Degussa Care Specialties), Dow Corning 1401 Fluid, Dow Corning 1403 Fluid, Dow Corning 1501 Fluid, Dow Corning 1784 HVF Emulsion, Dow Corning 9546 Silicone Elastomer Blend, SM555, SM2725, SM2765, SM2785 (all four aforementioned GE Silicones), Wacker-Belsil CM 1000, Wacker-Belsil CM 3092, Wacker-Belsil CM 5040, Wacker-Belsil DM 3096, Wacker-Belsil DM 3112 VP, Wacker-Belsil DM 8005 VP, Wacker-Belsil DM 60081 VP (all Wacker-Chemie GmbH mentioned above). The dimethiconols (Si8) are in the compositions of the invention in amounts of from 0.01 to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.01 to 8% by weight, particularly preferably 0.1 to 7.5 wt .-% and in particular 0.1 to 5 wt .-% of dimethiconol based on the composition.

Farther are in a high preferred embodiment Polymers for increasing the effect of the active ingredient complex (A) included.

The cationic polymers can Homo- or copolymers, wherein the quaternary nitrogen groups either in the polymer chain or preferably as a substituent on one or more of the monomers are contained. The ammonium group-containing Monomers can be copolymerized with non-cationic monomers. suitable cationic monomers are unsaturated, radically polymerizable compounds which contain at least one carry cationic group, in particular ammonium-substituted vinyl monomers such as trialkylmethacryloxyalkylammonium, trialkylacryloxyalkylammonium, Dialkyldiallylammonium and quaternary Vinylammoniummonomere with cyclic, cationic nitrogen-containing groups such as pyridinium, Imidazolium or quaternary Pyrrolidones, e.g. B. alkylvinylimidazolium, alkylvinylpyridinium, or Alyklvinylpyrrolidon salts. The alkyl groups of these monomers are preferably lower alkyl groups such as C1 bis C7-alkyl groups, more preferably C1 to C3-alkyl groups.

The Ammonium group-containing monomers may be non-cationic Be copolymerized monomers. Suitable comonomers are, for example Acrylamide, methacrylamide; Alkyl and Dialkylacrylamide, alkyl and dialkylmethacrylamide, alkyl acrylate, Alkyl methacrylate, vinylcaprolactone, vinylcaprolactam, vinylpyrrolidone, Vinyl ester, e.g. As vinyl acetate, vinyl alcohol, propylene glycol or Ethylene glycol, wherein the alkyl groups of these monomers preferably C 1 - to C 7 -alkyl groups, more preferably C 1 - to C 3 -alkyl groups are.

suitable Polymers with quaternary Amine groups are, for example, those in the CTFA Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary described under the names Polyquaternium Polymers such as methylvinylimidazolium chloride / vinylpyrrolidone copolymer (Polyquaternium-16) or quaternized vinyl pyrrolidone / dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate Copolymer (Polyquaternium-11).

Among the cationic polymers that can be included in the inventive composition, for example vinylpyrrolidone / dimethylaminoethyl copolymer available under the trade names Gafquat ^® 755 N and Gafquat ^® 734, United States is marketed by Gaf Co. and of which the Gafquat ^® 734 is particularly preferred suitable. Other cationic polymers are for example sold by the company BASF, Germany, under the trade name Luviquat ^® HM 550 copolymer of Polyvinyl pyrrolidone and imidazolimine which ^® by the company Calgon / USA under the trade name Merquat Plus 3300 sold terpolymer of dimethyl diallyl ammonium chloride, sodium acrylate and acrylamide and the product sold by the company ISP under the trade name Gafquat ^® HS 100 vinylpyrrolidone / methacrylamidopropyltrimethylammonium chloride copolymer.

Homopolymers of the general formula (P1), - {CH ₂ - [CR ¹ COO- (CH ₂ ) _m N ⁺ R ² R ³ R ⁴ ]} _n X ^- , in which R ¹ = -H or -CH ₃ , R ^2, R ³ and R ⁴ are independently selected from C1-4-alkyl, -alkenyl or -hydroxyalkyl groups, m = 1, 2, 3 or 4, n is a natural number and X ^- is a physiologically compatible organic or inorganic Anion is. In the context of these polymers, those are preferred according to the invention for which at least one of the following conditions applies: R ¹ is a methyl group, R ² , R ³ and R ⁴ are methyl groups, m is 2.

Suitable physiologically tolerated counterions X ^- include, for example, halide ions, sulfate ions, phosphate ions, methosulfate ions and organic ions such as lactate, citrate, tartrate and acetate ions. Preference is given to halide ions, in particular chloride. A particularly suitable homopolymer is, if desired, crosslinked, poly (methacryloyloxyethyltrimethylammonium chloride) with the INCI name Polyquaternium-37. Such products are available, for example under the names Rheocare ^® CTH (Cosmetic Rheologies) and Synthalen® ^® CR (3V Sigma) in trade.

The homopolymer is preferably used in the form of a non-aqueous polymer dispersion. Such polymer dispersions are available under the names Salcare ^® SC 95 and Salcare ^® SC 96 in the trade.

A copolymer preferred according to the invention is the crosslinked acrylamide-methacryloyloxyethyltrimethylammonium chloride copolymer. Such copolymers are commercially available under the name Salcare ^® SC 92nd

Suitable cationic polymers derived from natural polymers are cationic derivatives of polysaccharides, for example, cationic derivatives of cellulose, starch or guar. Also suitable are chitosan and chitosan derivatives. Cationic polysaccharides have the general formula (P-3) GOB-N + R _a R _b R _c X ^-

G is an anhydroglucose residue, for example starch or cellulose anhydroglucose;
B is a divalent linking group, for example, alkylene, oxyalkylene, polyoxyalkylene or hydroxyalkylene;
R _a , R _b and R _c are independently alkyl, aryl, alkylaryl, arylalkyl, alkoxyalkyl or alkoxyaryl each having up to 18 carbon atoms, wherein the total number of carbon atoms in R _a , R _b and R _{c is} preferably not more than 20 is;
X ^- is a common counteranion and is preferably chloride.

A cationic cellulose is sold under the name Polymer JR 400 from Amerchol ^® and has the INCI designation Polyquaternium-10 degrees. Another cationic cellulose bears the INCI name Polyquaternium-24 and is sold under the trade name Polymer LM-200 by Amerch1ol. Other commercial products are the compounds Celquat ^® H 100, Celquat ^® L and 200. The commercial products mentioned are preferred cationic celluloses.

Suitable cationic guar derivatives are marketed under the trade name Jaguar ^® and have the INCI name guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride. Further particularly suitable cationic guar derivatives are also used by the company. Hercules under the name N-Hance ^® commercially. Other cationic guar derivatives are marketed by the company. Cognis under the name Cosmedia® ^®. A preferred cationic guar derivative is the commercial product AquaCat® ^® from. Hercules. This raw material is an already pre-dissolved cationic guar derivative.

A suitable chitosan is sold, for example, by Kyowa Oil & Fat, Japan under the trade name Flonac ^®. A preferred chitosan is chitosoniumpyrrolidone is, for example, sold under the name Kytamer ^® PC by Amerchol, USA. Further chitosan derivatives are Hydagen® ^® CMF, Hydagen® ^® HCMF and Chitolam ^® NB / 101 freely available under the trade names in the trade.

Further preferred cationic polymers are, for example
cationic alkyl polyglycosides,
cationized honey, for example the commercial product Honeyquat ^® 50,
polymeric dimethyldiallylammonium salts and their copolymers with esters and amides of acrylic acid and methacrylic acid. Under the names Merquat ^® 100 (Poly (dimethyldiallylammonium chloride)) and Merquat ^® 550 (dimethyldiallylammonium chloride-acrylamide copolymer) are examples of such cationic polymers,
Vinylpyrrolidone vinylimidazoliummethochloride copolymers, such as those offered under the names Luviquat.RTM ^® FC 370, FC 550, FC 905 and HM 552,
quaternized polyvinyl alcohol,
and the polymers known under the names Polyquaternium 2, Polyquaternium 17, Polyquaternium 18 and Polyquaternium 27 with quaternary nitrogen atoms in the polymer main chain, vinylpyrrolidone-vinylcaprolactam-acrylate terpolymers, such as those commercially available with acrylic esters and acrylamides as the third monomer building example under the name Aquaflex ^® SF 40 are offered.

, Gaffix ^® VC 713 (manufactured by ISP): Also according to the invention can be used the copolymers of vinylpyrrolidone, such as the commercial products Copolymer 845 (ISP manufacturer) are Gafquat ^® ASCP 1011, Gafquat ^® HS 110, Luviquat ^® 8155 and Luviquat ^® MS 370 available are. Furthermore, cationized protein hydrolysates are to be counted among the cationic polymers, wherein the underlying protein hydrolyzate from the animal, for example from collagen, milk or keratin, from the plant, for example from wheat, corn, rice, potatoes, soy or almonds, marine life forms, for example from fish collagen or algae, or biotechnologically derived protein hydrolysates. As typical examples of the cationic protein hydrolyzates and derivatives according to the invention, those listed under the INCI names in the "International Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary and Handbook", (seventh edition 1997, The Cosmetic, Toiletry, and Fragrance Association 1101 17 ^th Street, NW, Suite 300 Washington, DC 20036-4702) and commercially available products.

The cationic polymers are preferred in the compositions of the invention in amounts of from 0.01 to 10% by weight, based on the total agent, contain. Levels of 0.05 to 5 wt .-% are particularly preferred.

Furthermore, amphoteric polymers can be used as polymers. The term amphoteric polymers includes both those polymers which contain in the molecule both free amino groups and free -COOH or SO ₃ H groups and are capable of forming internal salts, as well as zwitterionic polymers which in the molecule have quaternary ammonium groups and -COO ^- or -SO ₃ ^- groups, and summarized those polymers containing -COOH or SO ₃ H groups and quaternary ammonium groups.

• (i) Monomeren mit quartären Ammoniumgruppen der allgemeinen Formel (Mono1), R¹-CH=CR²-CO-Z-(C_nH_2n)-N⁽⁺⁾R²R³R⁴ A^(–) (Mono1) in der R¹ und R² unabhängig voneinander stehen für Wasserstoff oder eine Methylgruppe und R³, R⁴ und R⁵ unabhängig voneinander für Alkylgruppen mit 1 bis 4 Kohlenstoff-Atomen, Z eine NH-Gruppe oder ein Sauerstoffatom, n eine ganze Zahl von 2 bis 5 und das Anion einer organischen oder anorganischen Säure ist,
• (ii) Monomeren mit quartären Ammoniumgruppen der allgemeinen Formel (Mono2),
  
  worin R⁶ und R⁷ unabhängig voneinander stehen für eine (C₁ bis C₄)-Alkylgruppe, insbesondere für eine Methylgruppe und A^– das Anion einer organischen oder anorganischen Säure ist,
• (iii) monomeren Carbonsäuren der allgemeinen Formel (Mono3), R⁸-CH=CR⁹-COOH (Mono3) in denen R⁸ und R⁹ unabhängig voneinander Wasserstoff oder Methylgruppen sind.

Amphoteric and / or cationic polymers preferred according to the invention are those polymers in which a cationic group is derived from at least one of the following monomers:

• (i) monomers having quaternary ammonium groups of the general formula (Mono 1), R ¹ -CH = CR ² -CO-Z- (C _n H _2n ) -N ⁽⁺⁾ R ² R ³ R ⁴ A ^(-) (Mono 1) in which R ¹ and R ² independently of one another are hydrogen or a methyl group and R ³ , R ⁴ and R ⁵ are each independently alkyl groups having 1 to 4 carbon atoms, Z is an NH group or an oxygen atom, n is an integer of 2 to 5 and the anion is an organic or inorganic acid,
• (ii) monomers having quaternary ammonium groups of the general formula (mono 2),
  
  wherein R ⁶ and R ⁷ independently of one another represent a (C ₁ to C ₄ ) -alkyl group, in particular a methyl group and A ^{- is} the anion of an organic or inorganic acid,
• (iii) monomeric carboxylic acids of the general formula (mono 3), R ⁸ -CH = CR ⁹ -COOH (mono 3) in which R ⁸ and R ^{9 are} independently hydrogen or methyl groups.

Particular preference is given to those polymers in which monomers of type (i) are used, wherein R ³ , R ⁴ and R ^{5 are} methyl groups, Z is an NH group and A ^{(-) is} a halide, methoxysulfate or ethoxysulfate ion; Acrylamidopropyltrimethylammonium chloride is a particularly preferred monomer (i). As the monomer (ii) for the polymers mentioned, acrylic acid is preferably used.

Particularly preferred amphoteric polymers are copolymers of at least one monomer (Mono1) or (Mono2) with the monomer (Mono3), in particular copolymers of the monomers (Mono2) and (Mono3). Very particularly preferably used according to the invention amphoteric polymers are copolymers of diallyl dimethyl ammonium chloride and acrylic acid. These copolymers are sold under the INCI name Polyquaternium-22, among others, with the trade name Merquat ^® 280 (Nalco).

• (iv) monomere Carbonsäureamide der allgemeinen Formel (Mono4),
  
  in denen R¹⁰ und R¹¹ unabhängig voneinander Wasserstoff oder Methylgruppen sind und R¹² für ein Wasserstoffatom oder eine (C₁- bis C₈)-Alkylgruppe steht, enthalten.

In addition, the amphoteric polymers according to the invention in addition to a monomer (Mono1) or (Mono2) and a monomer (Mono3) additionally a monomer (Mono4)

• (iv) monomeric carboxylic acid amides of the general formula (mono 4),
  
  in which R ¹⁰ and R ¹¹ independently of one another are hydrogen or methyl groups and R ^{12 is} a hydrogen atom or a (C ₁ - to C ₈ ) -alkyl group.

Amphoteric polymers based on a comonomer (Mono4) which are very particularly preferably used according to the invention are terpolymers of diallyldimethylammonium chloride, acrylamide and acrylic acid. These copolymers are marketed ^® under the INCI name Polyquaternium-39, among others, with the trade name Merquat Plus 3330 (Nalco).

The amphoteric polymers can generally both directly and in salt form, by neutralizing the Polymers, for example, with an alkali metal hydroxide obtained is used according to the invention become.

The Amphoteric polymers are preferred in amounts in the compositions of the invention from 0.01 to 10 wt .-%, based on the total agent. Amounts of 0.01 to 5 wt .-% are particularly preferred.

at the anionic polymers are anionic polymers, which carboxylate and / or Have sulfonate groups. Examples of anionic monomers, from such polymers may be acrylic acid, methacrylic acid, crotonic acid, maleic anhydride and 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid. The can acidic groups in whole or in part as sodium, potassium, ammonium, Mono- or triethanolammonium salt present. Preferred monomers are 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid and acrylic acid.

When anionic polymers have proven to be particularly effective containing as sole or co-monomer 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid, wherein the sulfonic acid group wholly or partly as sodium, potassium, ammonium, mono- or Triethanolammonium salt may be present.

More preferably, the homopolymer of 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropansulfon acid, which is available for example under the name Rheothik ^® 11-80 is commercially.

Within this embodiment For example, it may be preferable to use copolymers of at least one anionic Use monomer and at least one nonionic monomer. In terms of The anionic monomers are based on the substances listed above directed. Preferred nonionic monomers are acrylamide, methacrylamide, acrylate, methacrylates, Vinyl pyrrolidone, vinyl ethers and vinyl esters.

Preferred anionic copolymers are acrylic acid-acrylamide copolymers and in particular polyacrylamide copolymers with sulfonic acid-containing monomers. Such a polymer is contained in the commercial product Sepigel ^® 305 from SEPPIC.

Also sold under the name Simulgel ^® 600 as a compound with isohexadecane and polysorbate-80 Natriumacryloyldimethyltaurat copolymers have proved to be particularly effective according to the invention.

Likewise preferred anionic homopolymers are uncrosslinked and crosslinked polyacrylic acids. Allyl ethers of pentaerythritol, sucrose and propylene may be preferred crosslinking agents. Such compounds are for example available under the trademark Carbopol ^® commercially.

Copolymers of maleic anhydride and methyl vinyl ether, especially those with crosslinks, are also color-retaining polymers. A 1.9-decadienes crosslinked maleic acid-methyl copolymer available under the name Stabileze® ^® QM.

The Anionic polymers are preferred in amounts in the inventive compositions from 0.05 to 10 wt .-%, based on the total agent. Amounts of 0.1 to 5 wt .-% are particularly preferred.

An inventively particularly preferred polyurethane is available under the trade name Luviset.RTM ^® PUR (BASF).

The agents according to the invention can in a further embodiment contain non-ionic polymers.

Suitable nonionic polymers are, for example:
Vinylpyrrolidone / vinyl ester copolymers, as sold, for example, under the trademark Luviskol ^® (BASF). Luviskol ^® VA 64 and Luviskol ^® VA 73, each vinylpyrrolidone / vinyl acetate copolymers, are also preferred nonionic polymers.
Cellulose ethers, such as hydroxypropylcellulose, hydroxyethylcellulose and methylhydroxypropylcellulose, as sold, for example under the trademarks Culminal ^® and Benecel ^® (AQUALON) and Natrosol ^® types (Hercules).
Starch and its derivatives, in particular starch, such as Structure XL ^® (National Starch), a multifunctional, salt-tolerant starch;
- shellac
Polyvinylpyrrolidones, as sold for example under the name Luviskol ^® (BASF).

The Nonionic polymers are in the compositions of the invention preferably in amounts of 0.05 to 10 wt .-%, based on the total Means, included. Amounts of 0.1 to 5 wt .-% are particularly preferred.

It According to the invention it is also possible that the used Preparations several, especially two different polymers same Charge and / or in each case an ionic and an amphoteric and / or not contain ionic polymer.

The Polymers (P) are in the compositions used according to the invention preferably in amounts of 0.01 to 30 wt .-%, based on the total Composition, included. Amounts of 0.01 to 25, in particular from 0.01 to 15 wt .-%, are particularly preferred. Of course, the Compositions of the invention further contain conventional ingredients in cosmetic compositions.

• – Anlagerungsprodukte von 4 bis 30 Mol Ethylenoxid und/oder 0 bis 5 Mol Pro pylenoxid an lineare Fettalkohole mit 8 bis 22 C-Atomen, an Fettsäuren mit 12 bis 22 C-Atomen und an Alkylphenole mit 8 bis 15 C-Atomen in der Alkylgruppe,
• – C₁₂-C₂₂-Fettsäuremono- und -diester von Anlagerungsprodukten von 1 bis 30 Mol Ethylenoxid an Polyole mit 3 bis 6 Kohlenstoffatomen, insbesondere an Glycerin,
• – Ethylenoxid- und Polyglycerin-Anlagerungsprodukte an Methylglucosid-Fettsäureester, Fettsäurealkanolamide und Fettsäureglucamide,
• – C₈-C₂₂-Alkylmono- und -oligoglycoside und deren ethoxylierte Analoga, wobei Oligomerisierungsgrade von 1,1 bis 5, insbesondere 1,2 bis 2,0, und Glucose als Zuckerkomponente bevorzugt sind,
• – Gemische aus Alkyl-(oligo)-glucosiden und Fettalkoholen zum Beispiel das im Handel erhältliche Produkt Montanov^® 68,
• – Anlagerungsprodukte von 5 bis 60 Mol Ethylenoxid an Rizinusöl und gehärtetes Rizinusöl,
• – Partialester von Polyolen mit 3-6 Kohlenstoffatomen mit gesättigten Fettsäuren mit 8 bis 22 C-Atomen,
• – Sterine, sowohl aus tierischem Gewebe (Zoosterine, Cholesterin, Lanosterin) wie aus pflanzlichen Fetten (Phytosterine, Ergosterin, Stigmasterin, Sitosterin) oder aus Pilzen und Hefen (Mykosterine),
• – Phospholipide (Lecithine, Phopshatidylcholine),
• – Fettsäureester von Zuckern und Zuckeralkoholen, wie Sorbit,
• – Polyglycerine und Polyglycerinderivate wie beispielsweise Polyglycerinpoly-12-hydroxystearat (Handelsprodukt Dehymuls^® PGPH).

Emulsifiers which can be used according to the invention are, for example

• - Addition products of 4 to 30 moles of ethylene oxide and / or 0 to 5 moles per propylene oxide to linear fatty alcohols having 8 to 22 carbon atoms, to fatty acids having 12 to 22 carbon atoms and to alkylphenols having 8 to 15 carbon atoms in the alkyl group .
• C ₁₂ -C ₂₂ -fatty acid mono- and diesters of addition products of from 1 to 30 mol of ethylene oxide onto polyols having from 3 to 6 carbon atoms, in particular to glycerol,
• Ethylene oxide and polyglycerol addition products to methyl glucoside fatty acid esters, fatty acid alkanolamides and fatty acid glucamides,
• C ₈ -C ₂₂ -alkylmono- and -oligoglycosides and their ethoxylated analogues, preference being given to degrees of oligomerization of from 1.1 to 5, in particular from 1.2 to 2.0, and glucose as the sugar component,
• Glucosides mixtures of alkyl (oligo) and fatty alcohols, for example, the commercially available product ^® Montanov 68, -
• Adducts of 5 to 60 moles of ethylene oxide with castor oil and hydrogenated castor oil,
• Partial esters of polyols having 3-6 carbon atoms with saturated fatty acids having 8 to 22 C atoms,
• - sterols, both from animal tissue (zoosterols, cholesterol, lanosterol) and from vegetable fats (phytosterols, ergosterol, stigmasterol, sitosterol) or from fungi and yeasts (mycosterols),
• - phospholipids (lecithins, phopshatidylcholines),
• Fatty acid esters of sugars and sugar alcohols, such as sorbitol,
• - Polyglycerols and polyglycerol derivatives such as polyglycerol poly-12-hydroxystearate (commercial product Dehymuls ^® PGPH).

The agents according to the invention contain the emulsifiers preferably in amounts of 0.1-25 wt .-%, in particular 0.5-15 wt .-%, based on the total mean.

As fatty acids (Fatac) can be used linear and / or branched, saturated and / or unsaturated fatty acids having 6-30 carbon atoms. Preferred are fatty acids with 10-22 carbon atoms. Among these could be mentioned, for example, isostearic as the commercial products Emersol ^® 871 and Emersol ^® 875, and isopalmitic acids such as the commercial product Edenor ^® IP 95, and all other products sold under the trade names Edenor ^® (Cognis) fatty acids. Further typical examples of such fatty acids are caproic, caprylic, 2-ethylhexanoic, capric, lauric, isotridecanoic, myristic, palmitic, palmitoleic, stearic, isostearic, oleic, elaidic, petroselic, linoleic, linolenic as well as their technical mixtures. Particularly preferred are usually the fatty acid cuttings obtainable from coconut oil or palm oil; In particular, the use of stearic acid is usually preferred.

The Amount used is thereby 0,1-15 Wt .-%, based on the total agent. The amount is preferably 0.5-10 Wt .-%, with very particularly advantageous amounts of 1-5 wt .-% could be.

As fatty alcohols (fatal) it is possible to use saturated, mono- or polyunsaturated, branched or unbranched fatty alcohols with C ₆ -C ₃₀ -, preferably C ₁₀ -C ₂₂ - and very particularly preferably C ₁₂ -C ₂₂ -carbon atoms. Decanols, octanols, dodecadienol, decadienol, oleyl alcohol, eruca alcohol, ricinoleic alcohol, stearyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, lauryl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, arachidyl alcohol, caprylic alcohol, capric alcohol, linoleyl alcohol, linolenyl alcohol and behenyl alcohol are, for example, decanol, octanolol, dodecadienol, decadienol , as well as their Guerbet alcohols, this list should have exemplary and non-limiting character. However, the fatty alcohols are derived from preferably natural fatty acids, which can usually be based on recovery from the esters of fatty acids by reduction. Also usable according to the invention are those fatty alcohol cuts which represent a mixture of different fatty alcohols. Such substances are, for example, under the names Stenol ^® , z. B. Stenol ^® 1618 or Lanette ^®, z. B. Lanette ^® O or Lorol ^®, z. B. Lorol® ^® C8, Lorol® ^® C14, C18 Lorol® ^{®, ®} Lorol® C8-18, HD Ocenol ^®, Crodacol ^®, z. B. Crodacol CS ^{®, ®} Novol, Eutanol ^® G, Guerbitol ^® 16, Guerbitol ^® 18, Guerbitol ^® 20, Isofol ^® 12, Isofol ^® 16, Isofol ^® 24, Isofol ^® 36, Isocarb 12 ^{®, ®} Isocarb 16 or Isocarb ^® 24 for sale. Of course, wool wax alcohols, as are commercially available, for example under the names of Corona ^®, White Swan ^®, Coronet ^® or Fluilan ^® can be used according to the invention. The fatty alcohols are used in amounts of 0.1-30 wt .-%, based on the total preparation, preferably in amounts of 0.1-20 wt .-%.

When natural or synthetic waxes (Fatwax) can be used according to the invention be solid paraffins or isoparaffins, carnauba waxes, bee waxes, Candelilla, ozokerite, ceresin, spermaceti, sunflower wax, Fruit waxes such as apple wax or citrus wax, Microwachse made of PE or PP. Such waxes are available for example via the Fa. Kahl & Co., Trittau.

The Amount used is 0.1-50 Wt .-% based on the total agent, preferably 0.1-20 wt .-% and more preferably 0.1-15 Wt .-% based on the total agent.

The Total amount of oil and fat components in the compositions of the invention is usually 0.5-75 Wt .-%, based on the total agent. Amounts of 0.5-35% by weight are preferred according to the invention.

One further inventive synergistic Active ingredient in the compositions according to the invention with the active ingredient complex according to the invention are protein hydrolysates and / or its derivatives (P).

According to the invention, protein hydrolysates both herbal and animal or marine or synthetic Origin are used.

Animal protein hydrolysates are, for example, elastin, collagen, keratin, silk and milk egg white protein hydrolysates, which may also be in the form of salts. Such products are, for example, under the trademarks Dehylan ^® (Cognis), Promois® ^® (Interorgana) Collapuron ^® (Cognis), Nutrilan® ^® (Cognis), Gelita-Sol ^® (German Gelatinefabriken Stoess & Co), Lexein ^® (Inolex) and kerasol tm ^® (Croda) sold.

Further preferred vegetable protein hydrolysates according to the invention are, for example, soybean, almond, pea, moringa, potato and wheat protein hydrolysates. Such products are, for example, under the trademarks Gluadin ^® (Cognis), diamine ^® (Diamalt) ^® (Inolex), Hydrosoy ^® (Croda), hydro Lupine ^® (Croda), hydro Sesame ^® (Croda), Hydro tritium ^® (Croda), Crotein ^® (Croda) and Puricare ^® LS 9658 from the Laboratoires Sérobiologiques available.

Further preferred protein hydrolysates according to the invention are of maritime origin. These include, for example, collagen hydrolyzates of fish or algae as well as protein hydrolysates of mussels or pearl hydrolyzates. Examples of pearl extracts according to the invention are the commercial products Pearl Protein Extract BG ^® or Crodarom ^® Pearl.

The Protein hydrolysates (P) are in concentrations in the compositions from 0.001% by weight up to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.05% by weight up to 15% by weight and most preferably in amounts of 0.05 Wt .-% up to 5 wt .-% included.

The effect of the compositions according to the invention can be further enhanced by a 2-pyrrolidinone-5-carboxylic acid and its derivatives (J). Preference is given to the sodium, potassium, calcium, magnesium or ammonium salts in which the ammonium ion carries, in addition to hydrogen, one to three C ₁ - to C ₄ -alkyl groups. The sodium salt is most preferred. The amounts used in the compositions according to the invention are 0.05 to 10 wt .-%, based on the total agent, more preferably 0.1 to 5, and especially 0.1 to 3 wt .-%.

A Another preferred group of ingredients of the compositions of the invention with the active ingredient complex according to the invention are vitamins, provitamins or vitamin precursors. Vitamins, pro-vitamins and vitamin precursors are particularly preferred that the groups A, B, C, E, F and H are assigned.

The group of substances called vitamin A includes retinol (vitamin A ₁ ) and 3,4-didehydroretinol (vitamin A ₂ ). The β-carotene is the provitamin of retinol. As vitamin A component according to the invention, for example, vitamin A acid and its esters, vitamin A aldehyde and vitamin A alcohol and its esters such as the palmitate and the acetate into consideration. The agents according to the invention preferably contain the vitamin A component in amounts of 0.05-1% by weight, based on the total preparation.

The vitamin B group or the vitamin B complex include:
Vitamin B ₁ (thiamine)
Vitamin B ₂ (riboflavin)
Vitamin B ₃ .

Under this term will be common the compounds nicotinic acid and nicotinic acid amide (Niacinamide). According to the invention preferred is the nicotinic acid amide, that used in the invention Agents preferably in amounts of 0.05 to 1 wt .-%, based on the entire means, is included.

Vitamin B ₅ (pantothenic acid, panthenol and pantolactone). Panthenol and / or pantolactone are preferably used in the context of this group. Derivatives of panthenol which can be used according to the invention are, in particular, the esters and ethers of panthenol and also cationically derivatized panthenols. Individual representatives are, for example, panthenol triacetate, panthenol monoethyl ether and its monoacetate, as well as cationic panthenol derivatives.

Pantothenic acid is preferably as a derivative in the form of the more stable calcium salts and sodium salts (Ca-pantothenate, Na-pantothenate) are used in the present invention.

Vitamin B ₆ (pyridoxine and pyridoxamine and pyridoxal). The stated compounds of the vitamin B type, in particular vitamin B ₃ , B ₅ and B ₆ , are preferably present in the agents according to the invention in amounts of 0.05-10% by weight, based on the total agent. Amounts of 0.1-5 wt .-% are particularly be vorzugt.

vitamin C (ascorbic acid). Vitamin C is preferably used in amounts of 0.1 to 3 wt .-%, based on the total agent used. The Use in the form of palmitic acid ester, the glucoside or phosphates may be preferred. The usage in combination with tocopherols may also be preferred.

vitamin E (tocopherols, especially α-tocopherol). Tocopherol and its derivatives, including in particular the esters such as the acetate, the nicotinate, the phosphate and the succinate fall, are in the inventive compositions preferably in amounts of 0.05-1 Wt .-%, based on the total agent included.

vitamin F. By the term "vitamin F "are usually essential fatty acids, especially linoleic acid, linolenic and arachidonic acid, Understood.

vitamin H. The vitamin H is the compound (3aS, 4S, 6aR) -2-oxohexahydrothienol [3,4-d] imidazole-4-valeric acid, for the But in the meantime, the trivial name Biotin has prevailed. biotin is in the inventive compositions preferably in amounts of 0.0001 to 1.0 wt .-%, in particular in amounts of 0.001 to 0.01 wt .-%.

Prefers contain the compositions of the invention Vitamins, provitamins and vitamin precursors from groups A, B, E and H. Panthenol, pantolactone, pyridoxine and its derivatives as well nicotinamide and biotin are particularly preferred.

A particularly preferred group of ingredients in the cosmetic according to the invention Compositions are the following betaines: carnitine, Carnitine tartrate, carnitine magnesium citrate, acetylcarnitine, betalaine, 1,1-dimethyl-proline, choline, choline chloride, choline bitartrate, choline dihydrogen citrate and the compound referred to in the literature as betaine N, N, N-trimethylglycine.

Prefers Carnitine, histidine, choline and betaine are used. In a particularly preferred embodiment The invention is used as the active ingredient L-carnitine tartrate.

One particularly important ingredient is taurine and / or a derivative of the taurine. Taurine is exclusively 2-aminoethanesulfonic acid and Derivatives include the explicitly mentioned derivatives of taurine Understood. Among the derivatives of taurine are N-monomethyl taurine, N, N-dimethyltaurine, tauryllysylate, tauric tartrate, taurine ornithithate, Lysyltaurine and Omithyltaurine understood. Other taurine derivatives For the purposes of the present invention, the taurocholic acid and Hypotaurine.

Particularly preferred are agents according to the invention, which - based on their weight - 0.0001 to 10.0 wt .-%, preferably 0.0005 to 5.0 wt .-%, particularly preferably 0.001 to 2.0 wt .-% and In particular, 0.001 to 1.0 wt .-% taurine and / or a derivative of taurine included. In a further embodiment preferred according to the invention, the compositions according to the invention contain biochinones. In the agents according to the invention, suitable biochinones are understood as meaning one or more ubiquinone (s) and / or plastoquinone (s). The preferred ubiquinones according to the invention have the following formula:

The Coenzyme Q-10 is most preferred.

preferred Compositions of the invention contain purine and / or purine derivatives in narrower ranges. Here are preferred according to the invention Cosmetic preparations, characterized in that - based on their weight - 0,001 to 2.5% by weight, preferably 0.0025 to 1% by weight, more preferably 0.005 to 0.5% by weight and in particular 0.01 to 0.1% by weight of purine (s) and / or purine derivative (s). According to the invention preferred Cosmetic agents are characterized in that they contain purine, Adenine, guanine, uric acid, Hypoxanthine, 6-purinethiol, 6-thioguanine, Xanthine, caffeine, theobromine or theophylline. In hair cosmetic Preparations caffeine is most preferred.

In a further preferred embodiment of the present invention the cosmetic agent ectoine ((S) -2-methyl-1,4,5,6-tetrahydro-4-pyrimidinecarboxylic acid.

Particularly according to the invention preferred are agents that - related on her weight - 0,00001 to 10.0 wt .-%, preferably 0.0001 to 5.0 wt .-% and in particular 0.001 to 3 wt .-% of the active ingredients from the group that is formed of carnitine, taurine, coenzyme Q-10, ectoine, a B-series vitamin, a purine and its derivatives or physiologically acceptable Salts included.

In a further embodiment should the agents of the invention additionally contain at least one UV sunscreen. UVB filters can be oil soluble or water soluble be.

• – 3-Benzylidencampher, z. B. 3-(4-Methylbenzyliden)campher;
• – 4-Aminobenzoesäurederivate, vorzugsweise 4-(Dimethylamino)benzoesäure-2-ethylhexylester, 4-(Dimethylamino)benzoesäure-2-octylester und 4-(Dimethylamino)benzoesäureamylester;
• – Ester der Zimtsäure, vorzugsweise 4-Methoxyzimtsäure-2-ethylhexylester, 4-Methoxyzimtsäurepropylester, 4-Methoxyzimtsäureisoamylester, 2-Cyano-3-phenyl-zimtsäure-2-ethylhexylester (Octocrylene);
• – Ester der Salicylsäure, vorzugsweise Salicylsäure-2-ethylhexylester, Salicylsäure-4-isopropylben-zylester, Salicylsäurehomomenthylester;
• – Derivate des Benzophenons, vorzugsweise 2-Hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenon, 2-Hydroxy-4-meth-oxy-4'-methylbenzophenon, 2,2'-Dihydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenon;
• – Ester der Benzalmalonsäure, vorzugsweise 4-Methoxybenzmalonsäuredi-2-ethylhexylester;
• – Triazinderivate, wie z. B. 2,4,6-Trianilino-(p-carbo-2'-ethyl-1'-hexyloxy)-1,3,5-triazin und Octyltriazon.
• – Propan-1,3-dione, wie z. B. 1-(4-tert.Butylphenyl)-3-(4'methoxyphenyl)propan-1,3-dion;

As oil-soluble substances z. To name, for example:

• 3-benzylidene camphor, e.g. B. 3- (4-methylbenzylidene) camphor;
• 4-aminobenzoic acid derivatives, preferably 2-ethylhexyl 4- (dimethylamino) benzoate, 2-octyl 4- (dimethylamino) benzoate and 4- (dimethylamino) benzoic acid ester;
• Esters of cinnamic acid, preferably 4-methoxycinnamic acid 2-ethylhexyl ester, propyl 4-methoxycinnamate, isoamyl 4-methoxycinnamate, 2-ethylhexyl 2-cyano-3-phenylcinnamate (octocrylene);
• Esters of salicylic acid, preferably 2-ethylhexyl salicylate, 4-isopropylbenzyl salicylate, homomenthyl salicylate;
• Derivatives of benzophenone, preferably 2-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone, 2-hydroxy-4-methoxy-4'-methylbenzophenone, 2,2'-dihydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone;
• Esters of benzalmalonic acid, preferably di-2-ethylhexyl 4-methoxybenzmalonate;
• - Triazine derivatives, such as. 2,4,6-trianilino (p-carbo-2'-ethyl-1'-hexyloxy) -1,3,5-triazine and octyltriazone.
• - Propane-1,3-dione, such as. B. 1- (4-tert-butylphenyl) -3- (4'-methoxyphenyl) propane-1,3-dione;

• – 2-Phenylbenzimidazol-5-sulfonsäure und deren Alkali-, Erdalkali-, Ammonium-, Alkylammonium-, Alkanolammonium- und Glucammoniumsalze;
• – Sulfonsäurederivate von Benzophenonen, vorzugsweise 2-Hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenon-5-sul-fonsäure und ihre Salze;
• – Sulfonsäurederivate des 3-Benzylidencamphers, wie z. B. 4-(2-Oxo-3-bomylidenmethyl)benzolsul-fonsäure und 2-Methyl-5-(2-oxo-3-bornyliden)sulfonsäure und deren Salze.

Suitable water-soluble substances are:

• 2-phenylbenzimidazole-5-sulfonic acid and its alkali metal, alkaline earth metal, ammonium, alkylammonium, alkanolammonium and glucammonium salts;
• Sulfonic acid derivatives of benzophenones, preferably 2-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone-5-sulfonic acid and its salts;
• - Sulfonic acid derivatives of 3-Benzylidencamphers, such as. B. 4- (2-oxo-3-bomylidenemethyl) benzenesulfonic acid and 2-methyl-5- (2-oxo-3-bomylidene) sulfonic acid and salts thereof.

When typical UV-A filters are especially derivatives of benzoylmethane such as, for example, 1- (4'-tert-butylphenyl) -3- (4'-methoxyphenyl) propane-1,3-dione or 1-phenyl-3- (4'-isopropylphenyl) -propane-1,3-dione. The UV-A and UV-B filters can Of course also be used in mixtures. In addition to the mentioned soluble Fabrics come for this purpose also insoluble Pigments, in particular finely dispersed metal oxides or salts in question, such as titanium dioxide, zinc oxide, iron oxide, aluminum oxide, cerium oxide, Zirconia, silicates (talc), barium sulfate and zinc stearate. The Particles should have a mean diameter of less than 100 nm, preferably between 5 and 50 nm and in particular between 15 and 30 nm. You can a spherical one Have shape, it can However, such particles are also used, which are ellipsoidal or in any other way deviating from the spherical shape have.

Finally, the use of plant extracts (L) in the compositions according to the invention gives rise to further advantages. The extracts of green tea, oak bark, stinging nettle, witch hazel, hops, henna, chamomile, burdock root, horsetail, hawthorn, linden, almond, aloe vera, spruce needle, horse chestnut, sandalwood, juniper, coconut, mango, apricot, lime , Wheat, kiwi, melon, orange, grapefruit, sage, rosemary, birch, mallow, valerian, meadowfoam, quenelle, yarrow, thyme, lemon balm, toadstool, coltsfoot, marshmallow, meristem, ginseng, coffee, cocoa, moringa, ginger root and ayurvedic Plant extracts such as Aegle Marmelos (Bilwa), Cyperus Rotundus (Nagar Motha), Emblica Officinalis (Amalki), Morida Citrifolia (Ashyuka), Tinospora Cordifolia (Guduchi), Santalum album, (Chandana), Crocus Sativus (Kumkuma), Cinnamonum Zeylanicum and Nelumbo nucifera (Kamala), sweet grasses such as wheat, barley, rye, oats, spelled, corn, the various varieties of millet (millet, crab, millet as examples), cane, ryegrass, wi foxtail, oat grass, ostrich grass, meadow fescue, whistling grass, bamboo, cotton grass, lamprey grass, Andropogonodeae (Imperata Cylindrica also called grass or cogon grass), buffalo grass, mud grass, canine grasses, love grasses, cymbopogon (lemongrass), oryzeae (rice), zizania (wild rice) , Marram grass, perennial grass, honey grasses, grasses, bluegrasses, couch grass and Echinacea, in particular Echinacea angustifolia DC, Echinacea paradoxa (Norton), Echinacea simulata, E. atrorubens, E. tennesiensis, Echinacea strigosa (McGregor), Echinacea laevigata, Echinacea purpurea (L.) Moench and Echinacea pallida (Nutt), all types of wine as well as Perikarp favored by Litchie chinensis.

The Plant extracts can according to the invention both in pure as well as in diluted Form are used. If used in dilute form, they usually contain about 2-80 Wt .-% of active substance and as a solvent the extractant or extractant mixture used in their extraction.

• – Strukturanten wie Maleinsäure und Milchsäure,
• – Quellmittel wie Harnstoff, Allantoin, Carbonate oder Hydantoin,
• – Dimethylisosorbid und Cyclodextrine,
• – Farbstoffe zum Anfärben des Mittels,
• – Antischuppenwirkstoffe wie Piroctone Ölamine, Zink Omadine und Climbazol,
• – Komplexbildner wie EDTA, NTA, β-Alanindiessigsäure und Phosphonsäuren,
• – Trübungsmittel wie Latex, Styrol/PVP- und Styrol/Acrylamid-Copolymere
• – Perlglanzmittel wie Ethylenglykolmono- und -distearat sowie PEG-3-distearat,
• – Pigmente,
• – Stabilisierungsmittel für Wasserstoffperoxid und andere Oxidationsmittel,
• – Treibmittel wie Propan-Butan-Gemische, N₂O, Dimethylether, CO₂ und Luft,
• – Antioxidantien,
• – Parfümöle, Duftstoffe und Riechstoffe.

Furthermore, the cosmetic agents may contain other active ingredients, auxiliaries and additives, such as

• - structurants such as maleic acid and lactic acid,
• Swelling agents such as urea, allantoin, carbonates or hydantoin,
• Dimethylisosorbide and cyclodextrins,
• Dyes for staining the agent,
• Antidandruff active ingredients such as Piroctone Ölamine, Zink Omadine and Climbazole,
• Complexing agents such as EDTA, NTA, β-alaninediacetic acid and phosphonic acids,
• Opacifiers such as latex, styrene / PVP and styrene / acrylamide copolymers
• Pearlescing agents such as ethylene glycol mono- and distearate and PEG-3-distearate,
• - pigments,
• Stabilizing agent for hydrogen peroxide and other oxidizing agents,
• Propellants such as propane-butane mixtures, N ₂ O, dimethyl ether, CO ₂ and air,
• - antioxidants,
• - Perfume oils, fragrances and fragrances.

Regarding further optional components as well as the amounts of these components used expressly refer to the relevant manuals known to those skilled in the art.

One further subject of the invention is a method for hair treatment, in which a cosmetic agent according to claim 1 applied to the hair is rinsed and after a period of action by the hair.

The Exposure time is preferably a few seconds to 100 minutes, more preferably 1 to 50 minutes and most preferably 1 to 30 minutes.

Examples

All quantities are, unless otherwise stated, parts by weight. The following formulations were provided using known preparation methods. Plfegeshampoo: Wt .-% Texapon K 14 S 50.0 Dehyton K. 10.0 Plantacare 818 UP 4.0 D-panthenol 0.5 nicotinamide 0.3 Polyquaternium-10 0.3 citric acid 0.5 Arlypon F 1.2 sodium chloride 1.3 Inventive Amaranthölethoxylat 1.0 preservation qs water ad 100

The pH was adjusted to 4.5 to 5.5. Hair Conditioner: description % Stenol 1618 3.0 Genamine KDMP 1.0 Rheocare Ultragel 2.0 D-panthenol 0.5 Inventive Amaranthölethoxylat 2.0 methylparaben 0.3 Perfume 0.3 phenoxyethanol 0.5 water ad 100

Of the pH was adjusted to 2 to 4.

Claims (9)

Cosmetic composition for the treatment of keratinic Containing fibers, in particular human hair a. at least an ethoxylated amaranth oil and b. at least one anionic, amphoteric, cationic or nonionic surfactant and c. a cosmetic carrier. Cosmetic composition according to claim 1, characterized in that the ethoxylated amaranth oil has a degree of ethoxylation between 5 and 100 moles of ethylene oxide. Cosmetic composition according to one of claims 1 or 2, characterized in that the cosmetic composition is a shampoo and as a surfactant at least one anionic and at least a zwitterionic surfactant in the ratio of 10: 1 to 1: 5 included is. Cosmetic compositions according to any one of claims 1 or 2, characterized in that the cosmetic composition as surfactant at least one cationic surfactant in an amount of 0.01 to 20.0 wt .-% included. Cosmetic compositions according to any one of claims 1 to 4, characterized in that in addition at least one further Ingredient selected from one of the groups of the native oils, the ester oils, the silicone oils or the polymer is contained. Cosmetic composition according to one of claims 1 to 5, characterized in that the silicone is selected from dimethicones, amodimethicones and dimethiconols. Cosmetic compositions according to claim 6, characterized characterized in that the silicone has a viscosity of 40,000 to 80,000 mPa · s and selected is from dimethicones or dimethiconols. Method of treating keratinous fibers by characterized in that a cosmetic composition according to a the claims 1 to 7 is applied to the keratinic fibers and after a Exposure time of a few seconds up to 45 minutes is rinsed out again. Use of an agent according to one of claims 1 to 7 for the treatment of keratinic fibers.