WO2009098139A1

WO2009098139A1 - Cosmetic composition containing a dibenzoylmethane derivative and a particular neutral n-acylamino acid ester derivative; process for photostabilizing the dibenzoylmethane derivative

Info

Publication number: WO2009098139A1
Application number: PCT/EP2009/050859
Authority: WO
Inventors: Didier Candau; Benoit Muller
Original assignee: L'oreal
Priority date: 2008-02-06
Filing date: 2009-01-26
Publication date: 2009-08-13
Also published as: FR2926980A1

Abstract

The present invention relates to a cosmetic composition containing a combination of at least one dibenzoyl- methane derivative, and of at least one particular neutral N-acylamino acid ester derivative chosen from compounds (a) to (f ) below: (I). The invention also relates to a process for radiation- photostabilizing at least one dibenzoylmethane derivative with an effective amount of at least one particular neutral N-acylamino acid ester, derivative of formula (a) to (f ). The present invention also relates to the use of at least one particular neutral N-acylamino acid ester derivative of formula (a) to (f) in a composition comprising, in a cosmetically acceptable support, at least one dibenzoylmethane derivative, for the purpose of improving the efficacy of the said composition with respect to UV-A rays.

Description

COSMETIC COMPOSITION CONTAINING A DIBENZOYLMETHANE DERIVATIVE AND A PARTICULAR NEUTRAL N-ACYLAMINO ACID ESTER DERIVATIVE; PROCESS FOR PHOTOSTABILIZING THE DIBENZOYLMETHANE DERIVATIVE

The present invention relates to a cosmetic composition containing a combination of at least one screening agent of the dibenzoylmethane derivative type and at least one particular neutral N-acylamino acid ester derivative of formula (I), the definition of which will be given hereinbelow.

The invention also relates to a process for radiation- photostabilizing at least one screening agent of the dibenzoylmethane derivative type with an effective amount of at least one particular neutral N-acylamino acid ester derivative of formula (I), the definition of which will be given hereinbelow.

The present invention also relates to the use of at least one particular neutral N-acylamino acid ester derivative of formula (I) in a composition comprising, in a cosmetically acceptable support, at least one dibenzoylmethane derivative, for the purpose of improving the efficacy of the said composition with respect to UV-A rays.

It is known that light radiation with wavelengths of between 280 nm and 400 nm permits tanning of the human epidermis and that light rays with wavelengths more particularly between 280 and 320 nm, known as UV-B rays, cause skin burns and erythema which can harm the development of a natural tan. For these reasons, as well as for aesthetic reasons, there is a constant demand for means of controlling this natural tanning in order thus to control the colour of the skin; this UV-B radiation should thus be screened out. It is also known that UV-A rays, with wavelengths between 320 and 400 nm, which cause tanning of the skin, are liable to induce adverse changes therein, in particular in the case of sensitive skin or skin that is continually exposed to solar radiation. UV-A rays cause in particular a loss of elasticity of the skin and the appearance of wrinkles leading to premature ageing of the skin. They promote triggering of the erythemal reaction or amplify this reaction in certain individuals and may even be the cause of phototoxic or photoallergic reactions. Thus, for aesthetic and cosmetic reasons, for instance conservation of the skin' s natural elasticity, an increasingly large number of people wish to control the effect of UV-A rays on their skin. It is thus desirable also to screen out UV- A radiation.

For the purpose of protecting the skin and keratin materials against UV radiation, antisun compositions comprising organic screening agents that are active in the UV-A range and in the UV-B range are generally used. The majority of these screening agents are liposoluble .

In this respect, one particularly advantageous family of UV-A screening agents currently consists of dibenzoylmethane derivatives, and in particular 4-tert- butyl-4 ' -methoxydibenzoylmethane, which have high intrinsic absorbing power. These dibenzoylmethane derivatives, which are products that are now well known per se as screening agents that are active in the UV-A range, are described in particular in French patent applications FR-A-2 326 405 and FR-A-2 440 933, and also in European patent application EP-A-O 114 607; 4- tert-butyl-4' -methoxydibenzoylmethane is moreover currently sold under the trade name Parsol 1789 by the company DSM Nutritional Products. Unfortunately, it has been found that dibenzoylmethane derivatives are products that are relatively sensitive to ultraviolet radiation (especially UV-A), i.e., more specifically, they have an annoying tendency to be degraded more or less quickly under the action of this UV. Thus, this substantial lack of photochemical stability of dibenzoylmethane derivatives towards ultraviolet radiation, to which they are by nature intended to be subjected, does not make it possible to ensure constant protection during prolonged exposure to the sun, and so the user must make repeated applications at regular and close time intervals in order to obtain effective protection of the skin against UV rays.

It is known that, in patent EP 717 982, amide compounds have a photostabilizing effect on dibenzoylmethane derivatives and more particularly N, N-disubstituted amide oils, for instance the compound N, N-diethyl-3- methylbenzamide, having the structure:

or ethyl N-butyl-N-acetylaminopropionate of formula:

for instance the product sold under the trade name R3535 by the company Merck.

However, this stabilization is obtained in the presence of 20% to 30% of the latter compound, which has substantial solvent power for all the starting materials used for preparing the formulations, which has the consequence of being reflected by destabilization of the compositions, making the compositions containing such a combination unsuitable for use .

Photostabilization of dibenzoylmethane derivatives towards UV-radiation with amide compounds thus constitutes, at the present time, a problem that has still not been solved entirely satisfactorily.

The Applicant has now discovered, surprisingly, that by combining the dibenzoylmethane derivatives mentioned above with a particular neutral N-acylamino acid ester derivative of formula (I), it is possible to substantially and appreciably further improve the photochemical stability (or photostability) of these same dibenzoylmethane derivatives and their efficacy in UV-A without the drawbacks caused by amide compounds such as ethyl N-butyl-N-acetylaminopropionate .

This discovery forms the basis of the present invention .

Thus, in accordance with one of the subjects of the present invention, a composition is now proposed comprising, in a cosmetically acceptable support, at least one UV-screening system, characterized in that it comprises:

(a) at least one dibenzoylmethane derivative, and

(b) at least one neutral N-acylamino acid ester derivative chosen from compounds (a) to (f) below:

(a) (b)

(C)

(d) (e)

(f)

Another subject of the invention also concerns a process for improving the chemical stability towards UV radiation of at least one dibenzoylmethane derivative, which consists in combining the said dibenzoylmethane derivative with an effective amount of at least one neutral N-acylamino acid ester derivative such as those cited above.

Finally, a subject of the present invention is also the use of at least one neutral N-acylamino acid ester derivative such as those cited above, in a composition comprising, in a cosmetically acceptable support, at least one dibenzoylmethane derivative, for the purpose of improving the efficacy of the said composition with respect to UV-A rays.

Other characteristics, aspects and advantages of the invention will emerge on reading the detailed description that follows. The term "cosmetically acceptable" means compatible with the skin and/or its integuments, which has a pleasant colour, odour and feel, and which does not cause any unacceptable discomfort (stinging, tautness or redness) liable to put the consumer off using this composition .

The term "effective amount" means an amount that is sufficient to obtain an appreciable and significant improvement in the photostability of the dibenzoylmethane derivative (s) in the cosmetic composition. This minimum amount of particular neutral N-acylamino acid ester derivative, which may vary according to the nature of the support adopted for the composition, may be determined without any difficulty by means of a standard test for measuring photostability, such as that given in the examples hereinbelow.

A compound that is particularly preferred will be compound (c) , which has the nomenclature 2-hexyldecyl N-myristoyl-N-methylaminopropionate and which is sold under the trade name Amiter MA-HD by the company Nihon Emulsion Co. Ltd.

Some of the compounds in accordance with the present invention are described in the published Japanese patent applications 12908/1979 and 12609/1981 as emollients for the skin or the hair.

The neutral N-acylamino acid ester derivative compounds in accordance with the present invention may be prepared according to the process described in the literature, and more particularly in the following references :

(1) Insect repellents. Klier, Manfred; Schritt, Wolfgang; Hoppe, Udo . (Beiersdorf A. -G.)- DE 2 246 433; (2) New insect repellents - derivatives of N- disubstituted β-alanine. Klier, Manfred; Kuhlow, Friedrich. Beiersdorf A. -G., Hamburg, Fed. Rep. Germ. Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Chemists (1976), 27(3), 141-53;

(3) Preparation of acetyl ethylhexyl aminocarboxylic acid esters for use as auxiliary agents in topical formulations. Pfluecker, Frank; Gruenewald, Hans- Werner; Driller, Hansjuergen; Schwarz, Michael. (Merck Patent G.m.b.H., Germany) - WO 2005/074 897.

The process generally used for the preparation of the compounds of formula (I) is as follows:

The compound of formula (IV) in which

R₁ and R₂ denote a linear or branched Ci-C₂O alkyl radical;

R₃ represents a hydrogen atom or a linear or branched C₁-C₄ alkyl radical;

R₄ represents a linear or branched Ci-C₃₀ alkyl radical, is prepared by reacting an amine of formula (III) with the acrylic derivative of formula (II) . Compound (IV) is then acylated by reaction with an acid chloride of formula (V), and compound (I) is obtained by distillation of the crude reaction product.

The particular neutral N-acylamino acid ester derivatives are preferably present in the composition according to the invention in a content ranging from 0.1% to 40% by weight and preferably ranging from 0.1% to 30% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition . Among the dibenzoylmethane derivatives that may especially be mentioned, in a non-limiting manner, are:

- 2-methyldibenzoylmethane

- 4-methyldibenzoylmethane - 4-isopropyldibenzoylmethane

- 4-tert-butyldibenzoylmethane

- 2, 4-dimethyldibenzoylmethane

- 2 , 5-dimethyldibenzoylmethane

- 4,4' -diisopropyldibenzoylmethane - 4 , 4 ' -dimethoxydibenzoylmethane

- 4-tert-butyl-4' -methoxydibenzoylmethane

- 2-methyl-5-isopropyl-4 ' -methoxydibenzoylmethane

- 2-methyl-5-tert-butyl-4' -methoxydibenzoylmethane

- 2, 4-dimethyl-4 ' -methoxydibenzoylmethane - 2, 6-dimethyl-4-tert-butyl-4' -methoxydibenzoylmethane .

Among the dibenzoylmethane derivatives mentioned above,

4-isopropyldibenzoylmethane will be used in particular, which is sold under the name Eusolex 8020 by the company Merck, and corresponds to the following formula :

It is most particularly preferred to use 4- (tert- butyl) -4' -methoxydibenzoylmethane or Butyl Methoxy Dibenzoylmethane, sold under the trade name Parsol 1789 by the company DSM Nutritional Products; this screening agent corresponds to the following formula:

The dibenzoylmethane derivative (s) may be present in the compositions in accordance with the invention in contents preferably ranging from 0.01% to 10% by weight and more preferably from 0.1% to 6% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

The compositions in accordance with the invention may also comprise other additional UVA-active and/or UVB- active organic or mineral UV-screening agents that are water-soluble or liposoluble or even insoluble in the cosmetic solvents commonly used.

Needless to say, a person skilled in the art will take care to select the optional additional screening agent (s) and/or the amounts thereof such that the advantageous properties intrinsically associated with the compositions in accordance with the invention are not, or are not substantially, adversely affected by the envisaged addition (s), especially the improvement in the photostability of the dibenzoylmethane derivative .

The additional organic screening agents are chosen especially from anthranilates; cinnamic derivatives; salicylic derivatives; camphor derivatives; benzophenone derivatives; β, β-diphenylacrylate derivatives; triazine derivatives; benzotriazole derivatives; benzalmalonate derivatives, especially those mentioned in patent US 5 624 663; benzimidazole derivatives; imidazolines; bis-benzazolyl derivatives as described in patents EP 669 323 and US 2 463 264; p- aminobenzoic acid (PABA) derivatives; methylenebis- (hydroxyphenylbenzotriazole) derivatives as described in patent applications US 5 237 071, US 5 166 355, GB 2 303 549, DE 197 26 184 and EP 893 119; benzoxazole derivatives as described in patent applications EP 0 832 642, EP 1 027 883, EP 1 300 137 and DE 101 62 844; screening polymers and screening silicones such as those described especially in patent application WO 93/04665; α-alkylstyrene-based dimers, such as those described in patent application DE 198 55 649; 4, 4-diarylbutadienes such as those described in patent applications EP 0 967 200, DE 197 46 654, DE 197 55 649, EP-A-I 008 586, EP 1 133 980 and EP 133 981; merocyanin derivatives such as those described in patent applications WO 04/006 878, WO 05/058 269 and WO 06/032 741; and mixtures thereof.

As examples of organic UV-screening agents, mention may be made of those denoted hereinbelow under their INCI name : para-Aminobenzoic acid derivatives:

PABA,

Ethyl PABA,

Ethyl dihydroxypropyl PABA,

Ethylhexyl dimethyl PABA sold in particular under the name Escalol 507 by ISP,

Glyceryl PABA,

PEG-25 PABA sold under the name Uvinul P25 by BASF.

Salicylic derivatives:

Homosalate sold under the name Eusolex HMS by Rona/EM Industries,

Ethylhexyl salicylate sold under the name Neo Heliopan

OS by Haarmann and Reimer,

Dipropylene glycol salicylate sold under the name

Dipsal by Scher, TEA salicylate sold under the name Neo Heliopan TS by

Haarmann and Reimer.

Cinnamic derivatives:

Ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate sold in particular under the trade name Parsol MCX by Hoffmann LaRoche, Isopropyl methoxycinnamate,

Isoamyl methoxycinnamate sold under the trade name Neo

Heliopan E 1000 by Haarmann and Reimer,

Cinoxate,

DEA methoxycinnamate, Diisopropyl methylcinnamate,

Glyceryl ethylhexanoate dimethoxycinnamate . β, β-Diphenylacrylate derivatives : Octocrylene sold in particular under the trade name

Uvinul N539 by BASF,

Etocrylene sold in particular under the trade name

Uvinul N35 by BASF. Benzophenone derivatives:

Benzophenone-1 sold under the trade name Uvinul 400 by

BASF,

Benzophenone-2 sold under the trade name Uvinul D50 by

BASF, Benzophenone-3 or Oxybenzone sold under the trade name

Uvinul M40 by BASF,

Benzophenone-4 sold under the trade name Uvinul MS40 by

BASF,

Benzophenone-5, Benzophenone-6 sold under the trade name Helisorb 11 by

Norquay,

Benzophenone-8 sold under the trade name Spectra-Sorb

UV-24 by American Cyanamid,

Benzophenone-9 sold under the trade name Uvinul DS-49 by BASF,

Benzophenone- 12 n-hexyl 2- (4-diethylamino-2-hydroxybenzoyl) benzoate sold under the trade name Uvinul A+, or in the form of a mixture with octyl methoxycinnamate under the trade name Uvinul A+B by BASF.

Benzylidenecamphor derivatives:

3-Benzylidenecamphor manufactured under the name

Mexoryl SD by Chimex,

4-Methylbenzylidenecamphor sold under the name Eusolex 6300 by Merck,

Benzylidenecamphorsulfonic acid manufactured under the name Mexoryl SL by Chimex,

Camphor benzalkonium methosulfate manufactured under the name Mexoryl SO by Chimex, Terephthalylidenedicamphorsulfonic acid manufactured under the name Mexoryl SX by Chimex,

Polyacrylamidomethylbenzylidenecamphor manufactured under the name Mexoryl SW by Chimex. Phenylbenzimidazole derivatives:

Phenylbenzimidazolesulfonic acid sold in particular under the trade name Eusolex 232 by Merck, Disodium phenyl dibenzimidazole tetrasulfonate sold under the trade name Neo Heliopan AP by Haarmann and Reimer .

Phenylbenzotriazole derivatives:

Drometrizole trisiloxane sold under the name Silatrizole by Rhodia Chimie, Methylenebis (benzotriazolyl) tetramethylbutylphenol sold in solid form under the trade name MIXXIM BB/100 by Fairmount Chemical, or in micronized form as an aqueous dispersion under the trade name Tinosorb M by Ciba Specialty Chemicals. Triazine derivatives:

Bis (ethylhexyloxyphenol) methoxyphenyltriazine sold under the trade name Tinosorb S by Ciba Geigy, Ethylhexyltriazone sold in particular under the trade name Uvinul T150 by BASF, Diethylhexylbutamidotriazone sold under the trade name Uvasorb HEB by Sigma 3V,

2,4, 6-tris (diisobutyl 4' -aminobenzalmalonate) -s- triazine, 2,4, 6-tris (dineopentyl 4' -aminobenzalmalonate) -s- triazine

2, 4-bis (dineopentyl 4' -aminobenzalmalonate) -6- (n-butyl 4' -aminobenzoate) -s-triazine, the symmetrical triazine screening agents described in patent US 6 225 467, patent application WO 2004/085 412 (see compounds 6 and 9) or the document Symmetrical Triazine Derivatives IP.COM Journal, IP.COM INC West Henrietta, NY, US (20 September 2004), especially 2, 4, 6-tris (biphenyl) -1, 3, 5-triazines (in particular 2, 4, 6-tris (biphenyl-4-yl-l, 3, 5-triazine) and 2,4,6- tris (terphenyl) -1, 3, 5-triazine which is also mentioned in Beiersdorf patent applications WO 06/035 000, WO 06/034 982, WO 06/034 991, WO 06/035 007, WO 2006/034 992 and WO 2006/034 985. Anthranilic derivatives:

Menthyl anthranilate sold under the trade name Neo

Heliopan MA by Haarmann and Reimer.

Imidazoline derivatives: Ethylhexyldimethoxybenzylidenedioxoimidazoline propionate.

Benzalmalonate derivatives:

Dineopentyl 4' -methoxybenzalmalonate,

Polyorganosiloxane containing benzalmalonate functions, for instance Polysilicone-15, sold under the trade name Parsol SLX by Hoffmann LaRoche

4, 4-Diarylbutadiene derivatives:

1, 1-Dicarboxy (2,2' -dimethylpropyl) -4, 4-diphenylbutadiene

Benzoxazole derivatives:

2, 4-bis [5- (1-dimethylpropyl) benzoxazol-2-yl (4-phenyl) imino] - 6- (2-ethylhexyl) imino-1, 3, 5-triazine sold under the name Uvasorb K2A by Sigma 3V and mixtures thereof.

The preferred additional organic photoprotective agents are chosen from:

Ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate,

Homosalate,

Ethylhexyl salicylate,

Octocrylene, Phenylbenzimidazolesulfonic acid,

Benzophenone-3,

Benzophenone-4,

Benzophenone-5, n-Hexyl 2- (4-diethylamino-2-hydroxybenzoyl) benzoate, 4-Methylbenzylidenecamphor,

Terephthalylidenedicamphorsulfonic acid,

Disodium phenyldibenzimidazoletetrasulfonate,

Ethylhexyltriazone,

Bis (ethylhexyloxyphenol) methoxyphenyltriazine, Diethylhexylbutamidotriazone,

2,4, 6-Tris (biphenyl-4-yl) -1, 3, 5-triazine,

2, 4, 6-Tris (dineopentyl 4' -aminobenzalmalonate) -s-triazine,

2, 4, 6-Tris (diisobutyl 4' -aminobenzalmalonate) -s-triazine, 2, 4-Bis (dineopentyl 4' -aminobenzalmalonate) -6- (n-butyl 4' -aminobenzoate) -s-triazine,

Methylenebis (benzotriazolyl) tetramethylbutylphenol, Drometrizole trisiloxane, Polysilicone-15,

Dineopentyl 4' -methoxybenzalmalonate,

1, 1-Dicarboxy (2,2' -dimethylpropyl) -4, 4-diphenylbutadiene, 2, 4-Bis [5-1 (dimethylpropyl) benzoxazol-2-yl (4-phenyl) imino] - 6- (2-ethylhexyl) imino-1, 3, 5-triazine, and mixtures thereof.

The additional mineral screening agents are chosen from coated or uncoated metal oxide pigments in which the mean size of the primary particles is preferentially between 5 nm and 100 nm (preferably between 10 nm and 50 nm) , for instance titanium oxide (amorphous or crystallized in rutile and/or anatase form) , iron oxide, zinc oxide, zirconium oxide or cerium oxide pigments, which are all UV-photoprotective agents that are well known per se.

The pigments may be coated or uncoated.

The coated pigments are pigments that have undergone one or more surface treatments of chemical, electronic, mechanochemical and/or mechanical nature with compounds as described, for example, in Cosmetics & Toiletries,

February 1990, Vol. 105, pp. 53-64, such as amino acids, beeswax, fatty acids, fatty alcohols, anionic surfactants, lecithins, sodium, potassium, zinc, iron or aluminium salts of fatty acids, metal alkoxides (of titanium or of aluminium), polyethylene, silicones, proteins (collagen, elastin) , alkanolamines, silicon oxides, metal oxides or sodium hexametaphosphate .

As is known, silicones are organosilicon polymers or oligomers of linear or cyclic, branched or crosslinked structure, of variable molecular weight, obtained by polymerization and/or polycondensation of suitably functionalized silanes, and consist essentially of a repetition of main units in which the silicon atoms are linked together via oxygen atoms (siloxane bond), optionally substituted hydrocarbon-based radicals being directly attached via a carbon atom to the said silicon atoms .

The term "silicones" also includes the silanes required for their preparation, in particular alkyl silanes.

The silicones used for coating the nanopigments that are suitable for the present invention are preferably chosen from the group containing alkyl silanes, polydialkylsiloxanes and polyalkylhydrogenosiloxanes . Even more preferentially, the silicones are chosen from the group containing octyltrimethylsilane, polydimeth- ylsiloxanes and polymethylhydrogenosiloxanes .

Needless to say, before being treated with silicones, the metal oxide pigments may have been treated with other surface agents, in particular with cerium oxide, alumina, silica, aluminium compounds or silicon compounds, or mixtures thereof.

The coated pigments are more particularly titanium oxides that have been coated:

- with silica, such as the product Sunveil from the company Ikeda and the product Eusolex T-AVO from the company Merck, with silica and iron oxide, such as the product Sunveil F from the company Ikeda, with silica and alumina, such as the products

Microtitanium Dioxide MT 500 SA and Microtitanium Dioxide MT 100 SA from the company Tayca, Tioveil from the company Tioxide and Mirasun TiW 60 from the company

Rhodia,

- with alumina, such as the products Tipaque TTO-55 (B) and Tipaque TTO-55 (A) from the company Ishihara and UVT 14/4 from the company Kemira, with alumina and aluminium stearate, such as the product Microtitanium Dioxide MT 100 TV, MT 100 TX, MT 100 Z and MT-Ol from the company Tayca, and the products Solaveil CT-IO W, Solaveil CT 100 and Solaveil

CT 200 from the company Uniqema,

- with silica, alumina and alginic acid, such as the product MT-100 AQ from the company Tayca, - with alumina and aluminium laurate, such as the product Microtitanium Dioxide MT 100 S from the company Tayca, with iron oxide and iron stearate, such as the product Microtitanium Dioxide MT 100 F from the company Tayca, with zinc oxide and zinc stearate, such as the product BR351 from the company Tayca,

- with silica and alumina and treated with a silicone, such as the products Microtitanium Dioxide MT 600 SAS, Microtitanium Dioxide MT 500 SAS or Microtitanium Dioxide MT 100 SAS from the company Tayca, with silica, alumina and aluminium stearate and treated with a silicone, such as the product STT-30-DS from the company Titan Kogyo, - with silica and treated with a silicone, such as the product UV-Titan X 195 from the company Kemira, or the product SMT-100 WRS from the company Tayca,

- with alumina and treated with a silicone, such as the products Tipaque TTO-55 (S) from the company Ishihara or UV Titan M 262 from the company Kemira,

- with triethanolamine, such as the product STT-65-S from the company Titan Kogyo,

- with stearic acid, such as the product Tipaque TTO-55 (C) from the company Ishihara, - with sodium hexametaphosphate, such as the product Microtitanium Dioxide MT 150 W from the company Tayca.

Other titanium oxide pigments treated with a silicone are preferably T1O2 treated with octyltrimethylsilane and for which the mean size of the elementary particles is between 25 and 40 nm, such as the product sold under the trade name T 805 by the company Degussa Silices, Tiθ2 treated with a polydimethylsiloxane and for which the mean size of the elementary particles is 21 nm, such as the product sold under the trade name 70250 Cardre UF Tiθ2SI3 by the company Cardre, anatase/rutile Tiθ2 treated with a polydimethylhydrogenosiloxane and for which the mean size of the elementary particles is 25 nm, such as the product sold under the trade name Microtitanium Dioxide USP Grade Hydrophobic by the company Color Techniques.

The uncoated titanium oxide pigments are sold, for example, by the company Tayca under the trade names Microtitanium Dioxide MT 500 B or Microtitanium Dioxide MT 600 B, by the company Degussa under the name P 25, by the company Wackher under the name Transparent titanium oxide PW, by the company Miyoshi Kasei under the name UFTR, by the company Tomen under the name ITS and by the company Tioxide under the name Tioveil AQ.

The uncoated zinc oxide pigments are, for example: - those sold under the name Z-Cote by the company Sunsmart .

The coated zinc oxide pigments are, for example:

- those sold under the name Z-Cote HPl by the company Sunsmart (dimethicone-coated ZnO) ;

- those sold under the name Zinc Oxide CS-5 by the company Toshibi (ZnO coated with polymethylhydrogeno- siloxane) ; those sold under the name Daitopersion ZN-30 and Daitopersion ZN-50 by the company Daito (dispersions in cyclopolymethylsiloxane/oxyethylenated polydimethylsiloxane, containing 30% or 50% of nanozinc oxides coated with silica and polymethylhydrogenosiloxane) ; - those sold under the name NFD Ultrafine ZnO by the company Daikin (ZnO coated with perfluoroalkyl phosphate and copolymer based on perfluoroalkylethyl as a dispersion in cyclopentasiloxane) ; - those sold under the name SPD-Zl by the company Shin- Etsu (ZnO coated with silicone-grafted acrylic polymer, dispersed in cyclodimethylsiloxane) ;

- those sold under the name Escalol ZlOO by the company ISP (alumina-treated ZnO dispersed in an ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate/PVP-hexadecene/methicone copolymer mixture) ; those sold under the name Fuji ZnO-SMS-IO by the company Fuji Pigment (ZnO coated with silica and polymethylsilsesquioxane) .

The uncoated cerium oxide pigments are sold under the name Colloidal Cerium Oxide by the company Rhone-Poulenc.

The coated iron oxide pigments are sold, for example, by the company BASF under the name Transparent Iron Oxide .

Mention may also be made of mixtures of metal oxides, especially of titanium dioxide and of cerium dioxide, including the silica-coated equal-weight mixture of titanium dioxide and of cerium dioxide, sold by the company Ikeda under the name Sunveil A, and also the alumina, silica and silicone-coated mixture of titanium dioxide and of zinc dioxide, such as the product M 261 sold by the company Kemira, or the alumina, silica and glycerol-coated mixture of titanium dioxide and of zinc dioxide, such as the product M 211 sold by the company Kemira .

The additional UV-screening agents are generally present in the compositions according to the invention in proportions ranging from 0.01% to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, and preferably ranging from 0.1% to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

The aqueous compositions in accordance with the present invention may also comprise standard cosmetic adjuvants chosen especially from fatty substances, organic solvents, ionic or nonionic, hydrophilic or lipophilic thickeners, softeners, humectants, opacifiers, stabilizers, emollients, silicones, antifoams, fragrances, preserving agents, anionic, cationic, nonionic, zwitterionic or amphoteric surfactants, active agents, fillers, polymers, propellants, acidifying or basifying agents or any other ingredient usually used in cosmetics and/or dermatology.

The fatty substances may consist of an oil or a wax other than the apolar waxes as defined above, or mixtures thereof. The term oil means a compound that is liquid at room temperature. The term wax means a compound that is solid or substantially solid at room temperature and whose melting point is generally greater than 35°C.

Oils that may be mentioned include mineral oils (paraffin) ; plant oils (sweet almond oil, macadamia oil, grapeseed oil or jojoba oil); synthetic oils, for instance perhydrosqualene, fatty alcohols, fatty amides

(for instance isopropyl lauroyl sarcosinate sold under the name Eldew SL-205 by the company Ajinomoto), fatty acids or fatty esters, for instance the C12-C15 alkyl benzoate sold under the trade name Finsolv TN or

Witconol TN by the company Witco, 2-ethylphenyl benzoate, for instance the commercial product sold under the name X-Tend 226® by the company ISP, octyl palmitate, isopropyl lanolate and triglycerides, including capric/caprylic acid triglycerides, and dicaprylyl carbonate sold under the name Cetiol CC by the company Cognis, oxyethylenated or oxypropylenated fatty esters and ethers; silicone oils (cyclomethicone and polydimethylsiloxanes, or PDMS) or fluoro oils, polyalkylenes, and trialkyl trimellitates such as tridecyl trimellitate .

Waxy compounds that may be mentioned include carnauba wax, beeswax, hydrogenated castor oil, polyethylene waxes and polymethylene waxes, for instance the product sold under the name Cirebelle 303 by the company Sasol.

Among the organic solvents that may be mentioned are lower alcohols and polyols. These polyols may be chosen from glycols and glycol ethers, for instance ethylene glycol, propylene glycol, butylene glycol, dipropylene glycol or diethylene glycol.

Hydrophilic thickeners that may be mentioned include carboxyvinyl polymers such as the Carbopol products (carbomers) and the Pemulen products (acrylate/C10-C30- alkylacrylate copolymer) ; polyacrylamides, for instance the crosslinked copolymers sold under the names Sepigel 305 (CTFA name: polyacrylamide/C13-14 isoparaffin/ Laureth 7) or Simulgel 600 (CTFA name: acryl- amide/sodium acryloyldimethyltaurate copolymer/isohexa- decane/polysorbate 80) by the company SEPPIC; 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid polymers and copolymers, which are optionally crosslinked and/or neutralized, for instance the poly (2-acrylamido-2- methylpropanesulfonic acid) sold by the company Hoechst under the trade name Hostacerin AMPS (CTFA name: ammonium polyacryloyldimethyltaurate) or Simulgel 800 sold by the company SEPPIC (CTFA name: sodium polyacryloyldimethyltaurate/polysorbate 80/sorbitan oleate) ; copolymers of 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropane- sulfonic acid and of hydroxyethyl acrylate, for instance Simulgel NS and Sepinov EMT 10 sold by the company SEPPIC; cellulose-based derivatives such as hydroxyethylcellulose; polysaccharides and especially gums such as xanthan gum; and mixtures thereof.

Lipophilic thickeners that may be mentioned include synthetic polymers such as poly(Cio-C3o alkyl acrylates) sold under the name Intelimer IPA 13-1 and Intelimer IPA 13-6 by the company Landec, or modified clays such as hectorite and its derivatives, for instance the products sold under the name Bentone.

Needless to say, a person skilled in the art will take care to select the optional additional compound (s) mentioned above and/or the amounts thereof such that the advantageous properties intrinsically associated with the compositions in accordance with the invention are not, or are not substantially, adversely affected by the envisaged addition (s), especially the improvement in the photostability of the dibenzoylmethane derivative.

The compositions according to the invention may be prepared according to techniques that are well known to those skilled in the art. They may be in particular in the form of a simple or complex emulsion (O/W, W/O, 0/W/O or W/O/W emulsion) such as a cream, a milk or a cream-gel; in the form of an aqueous gel; in the form of a lotion. They may optionally be packaged as an aerosol and may be in the form of a mousse or a spray.

The compositions according to the invention are preferably in the form of an oil-in-water or water-in- oil emulsion.

The emulsions generally contain at least one emulsifier chosen from amphoteric, anionic, cationic and nonionic emulsifiers, which are used alone or as a mixture. The emulsifiers are appropriately chosen according to the emulsion to be obtained (W/O or O/W) . The emulsions may also contain stabilizers of other types, for instance fillers, gelling polymers or thickeners.

As emulsifying surfactants that may be used for the preparation of the W/0 emulsions, examples that may be mentioned include sorbitan, glycerol or sugar alkyl esters or ethers; silicone surfactants, for instance dimethicone copolyols, such as the mixture of cyclomethicone and of dimethicone copolyol, sold under the name DC 5225 C by the company Dow Corning, and alkyldimethicone copolyols such as laurylmethicone copolyol sold under the name Dow Corning 5200 Formulation Aid by the company Dow Corning; cetyl- dimethicone copolyol, such as the product sold under the name Abil EM 9OR by the company Goldschmidt, and the mixture of cetyldimethicone copolyol, of poly- glyceryl isostearate (4 mol) and of hexyl laurate, sold under the name Abil WE 09 by the company Goldschmidt. One or more co-emulsifiers may also be added thereto, which may be chosen advantageously from the group comprising polyol alkyl esters.

Polyol alkyl esters that may especially be mentioned include polyethylene glycol esters, for instance PEG-30 dipolyhydroxystearate, such as the product sold under the name Arlacel P135 by the company ICI.

Glycerol and/or sorbitan esters that may especially be mentioned include, for example, polyglyceryl isostearate, such as the product sold under the name Isolan GI 34 by the company Goldschmidt, sorbitan isostearate, such as the product sold under the name Arlacel 987 by the company ICI, sorbitan glyceryl isostearate, such as the product sold under the name Arlacel 986 by the company ICI, and mixtures thereof.

For the O/W emulsions, examples of emulsifiers that may be mentioned include nonionic emulsifiers such as oxyalkylenated (more particularly polyoxyethylenated) fatty acid esters of glycerol; oxyalkylenated fatty acid esters of sorbitan; oxyalkylenated (oxyethylenated and/or oxypropylenated) fatty acid esters, for instance the mixture PEG-100 stearate/glyceryl stearate sold, for example, by the company ICI under the name Arlacel 165; oxyalkylenated (oxyethylenated and/or oxypropylenated) fatty alkyl ethers; sugar esters, for instance sucrose stearate; fatty alkyl ethers of sugars, especially polyalkylglucosides (APG) such as decylglucoside and laurylglucoside sold, for example, by the company Henkel under the respective names Plantaren 2000 and Plantaren 1200, cetostearyl glucoside optionally as a mixture with cetostearyl alcohol, sold, for example, under the name Montanov 68 by the company SEPPIC, under the name Tegocare CG90 by the company Goldschmidt and under the name Emulgade KE3302 by the company Henkel, and also arachidyl glucoside, for example in the form of a mixture of arachidyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol and arachidyl glucoside, sold under the name Montanov 202 by the company SEPPIC. According to one particular embodiment of the invention, the mixture of the alkylpolyglucoside as defined above with the corresponding fatty alcohol may be in the form of a self-emulsifying composition as described, for example, in document WO-A-92/06778.

Among the other emulsion stabilizers that will be used more particularly are isophthalic acid or sulfo- isophthalic acid polymers, and in particular phthal- ate/sulfoisophthalate/glycol copolymers, for example the diethylene glycol/phthalate/isophthalate/1, 4-cyclo- hexanedimethanol copolymer (INCI name: Polyester-5) sold under the name Eastman AQ Polymer (AQ35S, AQ38S, AQ55S and AQ48 Ultra) by the company Eastman Chemical.

When it is an emulsion, the aqueous phase of this emulsion may comprise a nonionic vesicular dispersion prepared according to known processes (Bangham, Standish and Watkins, J. MoI. Biol. 13, 238 (1965), FR 2 315 991 and FR 2 416 008) .

The compositions according to the invention find their application in a large number of treatments, especially cosmetic treatments, of the skin, the lips and the hair, including the scalp, especially for protecting and/or caring for the skin, the lips and/or the hair, and/or for making up the skin and/or the lips.

Another subject of the present invention consists of the use of the compositions according to the invention as defined above for the manufacture of cosmetic products for treating the skin, the lips, the nails, the hair, the eyelashes, the eyebrows and/or the scalp, especially care products, antisun products and makeup products .

The cosmetic compositions according to the invention may be used, for example, as makeup products.

The cosmetic compositions according to the invention may be used, for example, as care products and/or antisun protection products for the face and/or the body, of liquid to semi-liquid consistency, such as milks, more or less rich creams, cream-gels and pastes. They may optionally be conditioned in aerosol form and may be in the form of a mousse or a spray.

The compositions according to the invention in the form of vaporizable fluid lotions in accordance with the invention are applied to the skin or the hair in the form of fine particles by means of pressurization devices. The devices in accordance with the invention are well known to those skilled in the art and comprise non-aerosol pumps or "atomizers", aerosol containers comprising a propellant and also aerosol pumps using compressed air as propellant. These devices are described in patents US 4 077 441 and US 4 850 517 (which form an integral part of the content of the description) .

The compositions conditioned in aerosol form in accordance with the invention generally contain conventional propellants, for instance hydrofluoro compounds, dichlorodifluoromethane, difluoroethane, dimethyl ether, isobutane, n-butane, propane or trichlorofluoromethane . They are preferably present in amounts ranging from 15% to 50% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

The compositions according to the invention may also comprise additional cosmetic or dermatological active agents .

The additional active agents may be chosen especially from moisturizers, desquamating agents, agents for improving the barrier function, depigmenting agents, antioxidants, dermo-decontracting agents, anti- glycation agents, agents for stimulating the synthesis of dermal and/or epidermal macromolecules and/or for preventing their degradation, agents for stimulating fibroblast or keratinocyte proliferation and/or keratinocyte differentiation, agents for promoting the maturation of the horny envelope, NO-synthase inhibitors, peripheral benzodiazepine receptor (PBR) antagonists, agents for increasing the activity of the sebaceous glands, agents for stimulating the energy metabolism of cells, tensioning agents, lipo- restructuring agents, slimming agents, agents for promoting the cutaneous capillary circulation, calmatives and/or anti-irritants, sebo-regulators or anti-seborrhoeic agents, astringents, cicatrizing agents, anti-inflammatory agents and antiacne agents.

A person skilled in the art will select the said active agent (s) as a function of the effect desired on the skin, the hair, the eyelashes, the eyebrows and the nails.

For caring for and/or making up aged skin, he will preferably choose at least one active agent chosen from moisturizers, desquamating agents, agents for improving the barrier function, depigmenting agents, antioxidants, dermo-decontracting agents, anti-glycation agents, agents for stimulating the synthesis of dermal and/or epidermal macromolecules and/or for preventing their degradation, agents for stimulating fibroblast or keratinocyte proliferation and/or keratinocyte differentiation, agents for promoting the maturation of the horny envelope, NO-synthase inhibitors, peripheral benzodiazepine receptor (PBR) antagonists, agents for increasing the activity of the sebaceous glands, agents for stimulating the energy metabolism of cells, and agents for promoting the cutaneous microcirculation for the area around the eyes.

The composition may also comprise at least one ingredient such as fillers with a soft-focus effect or agents for promoting the natural coloration of the skin, intended for complementing the biological effects of these active agents or for providing an immediate visual anti-ageing effect.

For caring for and/or making up greasy skin, a person skilled in the art will preferably choose at least one active agent chosen from desquamating agents, sebo- regulating agents or anti-seborrhoeic agents, and astringents .

The composition may also comprise at least one additional ingredient for complementing the biological effect of these active agents or for providing an immediate visual effect; mention may be made especially of matting agents, fillers with a soft-focus effect, fluorescers, agents for promoting the naturally pinkish coloration of the skin, and abrasive fillers or exfoliants.

1. Moisturizers or humectants

Moisturizers or humectants that may especially be mentioned include glycerol and derivatives thereof, urea and derivatives thereof, especially Hydrovance® sold by National Starch, lactic acid, hyaluronic acid, AHAs, BHAs, sodium pidolate, xylitol, serine, sodium lactate, ectoin and derivatives thereof, chitosan and derivatives thereof, collagen, plankton, an extract of Imperata cylindra sold under the name Moist 24® by the company Sederma, acrylic acid homopolymers, for instance Lipidure-HM® from NOF Corporation, beta-glucan from Mibelle-AG-Biochemistry; a mixture of passionflower oil, apricot oil, corn oil and rice bran oil sold by Nestle under the name NutraLipids®; a C- glycoside derivative such as those described in patent application WO 02/051 828 and in particular C-β-D- xylopyranoside-2-hydroxypropane in the form of a solution containing 30% by weight of active material in a water/propylene glycol mixture (60/40% by weight) such as the product sold by Chimex under the trade name Mexoryl SBB®; an oil of musk rose sold by Nestle; an oil of the microalga Prophyridium cruentum enriched with zinc, sold by Vincience under the name Algualane Zinc®; spheres of collagen and of chondroitin sulfate of marine origin (Atelocollagen) sold by the company Engelhard Lyon under the name Marine Filling Spheres; hyaluronic acid spheres such as those sold by the company Engelhard Lyon; and arginine.

The moisturizer that will preferably be used is chosen from urea and derivatives thereof, especially Hydrovance® sold by National Starch, hyaluronic acid, AHAs, BHAs, acrylic acid homopolymers, for instance Lipidure-HM® from NOF Corporation, beta-glucan from Mibelle-AG-Biochemistry; a mixture of passionflower oil, apricot oil, corn oil and rice bran oil sold by Nestle under the name NutraLipids®; a C-glycoside derivative such as those described in patent application WO 02/051 828 and in particular C-β-D- xylopyranoside-2-hydroxypropane in the form of a solution containing 30% by weight of active material in a water/propylene glycol mixture (60/40% by weight) such as the product sold by Chimex under the trade name Mexoryl SBB®; an oil of musk rose sold by Nestle; an oil of the microalga Prophyridium cruentum enriched with zinc, sold by Vincience under the name Algualane Zinc®; spheres of collagen and of chondroitin sulfate of marine origin (Atelocollagen) sold by the company Engelhard Lyon under the name Marine Filling Spheres; hyaluronic acid spheres such as those sold by the company Engelhard Lyon; and arginine.

2. Desquamating agents

The term "desquamating agent" means any compound capable of acting:

- either directly on desquamation by promoting exfoliation, such as β-hydroxy acids (BHA) , in particular salicylic acid and derivatives thereof (including 5-n-octanoylsalicylic acid, also known as capryloyl salicylic acid as the INCI name) ; α-hydroxy acids (AHA) , such as glycolic acid, citric acid, lactic acid, tartaric acid, malic acid or mandelic acid; 8- hexadecene-1, 16-dicarboxylic acid or 9-octadecenedioic acid; gentisic acid and derivatives thereof; oligofucoses; cinnamic acid; Saphora japonica extract; resveratrol, and certain jasmonic acid derivatives;

- or on the enzymes involved in the desquamation or degradation of corneodesmosomes, glycosidases, stratum corneum chymotryptic enzyme (SCCE) or other proteases (trypsin, chymotrypsin-like) . Mention may be made of aminosulfonic compounds and in particular 4- (2- hydroxyethyl) piperazine-1-propanesulfonic acid (HEPES); 2-oxothiazolidine-4-carboxylic acid (procysteine) derivatives; derivatives of α-amino acids of glycine type (as described in EP-O 852 949, and also sodium methyl glycine diacetate sold by BASF under the trade name Trilon M); honey; O-octanoyl-6-D-maltose and N- acetylglucosamine .

As other desquamating agents that may be used in the composition according to the invention, mention may be made of: oligofructoses, EDTA and derivatives thereof, laminaria extracts, o-linoleyl-6D-glucose, (3-hydroxy-

2-pentylcyclopentyl) acetic acid, glycerol trilactate, O-octanyl-6' -D-maltose, S-carboxymethylcysteine, siliceous derivatives of salicylate such as those described in patent EP 0 796 861, oligofucases such as those described in patent EP 0 218 200, 5-acyl salicylic acid salts, active agents with effects on transglutaminase, as in patent EP 0 899 330, extract of the flowers of ficus Opuntia indica (Exfolactive® from Silab) ,

- 8-hexadecene-l, 16-dicarboxylic acid,

- esters of glucose and of vitamin F, and - mixtures thereof.

Preferred desquamating agents that may be mentioned include β-hydroxy acids such as 5-n-octanoyl salicylic acid; urea; glycolic acid, citric acid, lactic acid, tartaric acid, malic acid or mandelic acid; 4- (2- hydroxyethyl) piperazine-1-propanesulfonic acid (HEPES); extract of Saphora japonica; honey; N-acetyl glucosamine; sodium methyl glycine diacetate, and mixtures thereof.

Even more preferentially, a desquamating agent chosen from 5-n-octanoyl salicylic acid; urea; 4- (2- hydroxyethyl) piperazine-1-propanesulfonic acid (HEPES); extract of Saphora japonica; honey; N-acetyl glucosamine; sodium methyl glycine diacetate, and mixtures thereof, will be used in the compositions of the invention.

3. Agents for improving the barrier function

As agents for improving the barrier function, mention may be made especially of arginine, an extract of Thermus thermophilus such as Venuceane® from Sederma, an extract of the rhizome of wild yam (Dioscorea villosa) such as Actigen Y® from Active Organics, plankton extracts, for instance Omega Plankton® from Secma, yeast extracts, for instance Relipidium® from Coletica, a chestnut extract such as Recoverine® from Silab, a cedar bud extract such as Gatuline Zen® from Gattefosse, sphingosines, for instance salicyloyl sphingosine sold under the name Phytosphingosine® SLC by the company Degussa, a mixture of xylitol, polyxylityl glycoside and xylitan, for instance Aquaxyl® from SEPPIC, extracts of Solanacea plants, for instance Lipidessence® from Coletica, omega-3 unsaturated oils such as musk rose oils, and mixtures thereof .

Mention may also be made especially of ceramides or derivatives thereof, in particular ceramides of type 2 (for instance N-oleoyldihydrosphingosine) , of type 3 (for instance stearoyl-4-hydroxysphinganine, as the INCI name) and of type 5 (for instance N-2- hydroxypalmitoyldihydrosphingosine, having the INCI name: hydroxypalmitoyl sphinganine) , sphingoid-based compounds, glycosphingolipids, phospholipids, cholesterol and derivatives thereof, phytosterols, essential fatty acids, diacylglycerol, 4-chromanone and chromone derivatives, petroleum jelly, lanolin, shea butter, cocoa butter, lanolin and PCA salts. As preferred agents having a restructuring effect on the barrier function, mention will be made of an extract of Thermus thermophilics, an extract of wild yam rhizome (Dioscorea villosa) , a yeast extract, a chestnut extract, a cedar bud extract, arginine, ceramides especially of type 3 and 5; and mixtures thereof .

Preferably, serine or arginine, or a mixture thereof, will be used.

4. Depigmenting agents

Depigmenting agents that may especially be mentioned include vitamin C and derivatives thereof and especially vitamin CG, CP and 3-0 ethyl vitamin C, alpha and beta arbutin, ferulic acid, lucinol and derivatives thereof, kojic acid, resorcinol and derivatives thereof, tranexamic acid and derivatives thereof, gentisic acid, homogentisate, methyl gentisate or homogentisate, dioic acid, calcium D-pantheteine sulfonate, lipoic acid, ellagic acid, vitamin B3, linoleic acid and derivatives thereof, ceramides and homologues thereof, plant derivatives, for instance camomile, bearberry, the aloe family (vera, ferox, bardensis), mulberry or skullcap; a kiwi fruit

(Actinidia chinensis) juice sold by Gattefosse, an extract of Paeonia suffruticosa root, such as the product sold by the company Ichimaru Pharcos under the name Botanpi Liquid B®, an extract of brown sugar

(Saccharum officinarum) , such as the extract of molasses sold by the company Taiyo Kagaku under the name Molasses Liquid, without this list being exhaustive .

Vitamin C and derivatives thereof and especially vitamin CG, CP and 3-0 ethyl vitamin C, alpha and beta arbutin, ferulic acid, kojic acid, resorcinol and derivatives thereof, calcium D-pantheteine sulfonate, lipoic acid, ellagic acid, vitamin B3, a kiwi fruit (Actinidia chinensis) juice sold by Gattefosse, and an extract of Paeonia suffruticosa root, such as the product sold by the company Ichimaru Pharcos under the name Botanpi Liquid B®, will be used as preferred depigmenting agents.

5. Antioxidants

Mention may be made especially of tocopherol and esters thereof, in particular tocopheryl acetate; ascorbic acid and derivatives thereof, in particular magnesium ascorbyl phosphate and ascorbyl glucoside; ferulic acid; serine; ellagic acid, polyphenols, tannins, tannic acid, epigallocatechins and natural extracts containing them, anthocyans, rosemary extracts, olive leaf extracts, for instance those from the company Silab, green tea extracts, resveratrol and derivatives thereof, ergothioneine, N-acetylcysteine, an extract of the brown alga Pelvetia caniculata, for instance Pelvetiane® from Secma, chlorogenic acid, biotin, chelating agents, such as BHT and BHA, N, N' -bis (3, 4, 5- trimethoxybenzyl) ethylenediamine and salts thereof; idebenone, plant extracts, for instance Pronalen Bioprotect TM from the company Provital; coenzyme QlO, bioflavonoids, SODs, phytanetriol, lignans, melatonin, pidolates, glutathione, caprylyl glycol, phloretin, Totarol™ or extract of Podocarpus totara containing Totarol (totara-8, 11, 13-trienol or 2-phenanthrenol, 4b, 5,6,7,8, 8a, 9, 10-octahydro-4b, 8, 8 -trimethy1-1- (1- methylethyl) -; a jasmine extract such as the product sold by Silab under the name Helisun®; hesperitin laurate such as Flavagrum PEG® from the company Engelhard Lyon; an extract of Paeonia suffruticosa root, such as the product sold by the company Ichimaru Pharcos under the name Botanpi Liquid B®, an extract of lychee such as the extract of lychee pericarp sold by the company Cognis under the name Litchiderm LS 9704®, an extract of pomegranate fruit (Punica granatum) , such as the product sold by the company Draco Natural Products .

Other anti-ageing agents that may be mentioned include DHEA and derivatives thereof, boswellic acid, rosemary extracts, carotenoids (β-carotene, zeaxanthin and lutein), cysteic acid, copper derivatives and jasmonic acid.

Preferred antioxidants that will especially be used include ferulic acid; serine; phloretin, an extract of pomegranate, biotin, chelating agents such as BHT, BHA, N, N' -bis (3, 4, 5-trimethoxybenzyl) ethylenediamine and salts thereof; caprylyl glycol, phloretin, Totarol™, a jasmine extract such as the product sold by Silab under the name Helisun®; hesperitin laurate such as Flavagrum PEG® from the company Engelhard Lyon; an extract of Paeonia suffruticosa root, such as the product sold by the company Ichimaru Pharcos under the name Botanpi Liquid B®.

6. Dermo-relaxing or dermo-decontracting agents

Examples that may be mentioned include manganese gluconate and other salts, adenosine, alverine citrate and salts thereof, lysine, an extract of Iris pallida, a hexapeptide (Argeriline R from Lipotec) or sapogenins, for instance wild yam and the carbonyl amines described in patent application EP 1 484 052. Examples of sapogenins that may be mentioned include those described in patent application WO 02/47650, in particular wild yam, the diosgenin extracted especially from Dioscorea opposita or any extract naturally containing or containing after treatment one or more sapogenins (wild yam rhizome, agave leaf, which contains hecogenin and tigogenin, extracts of Liliacea plants and more particularly yucca or smilax containing smilagenin and sarsapogenin, or sarsaparilla) or Actigen Y from the company Actives Organics, or ginger.

Mention may also be made of DMAE (dimethyl MEA) , extracts of sea fennel, of rockrose, of helichrysum, of aniseed, of paracress, and an extract of Acmella oleracea, for instance Gatuline® from Gattefosse.

Preferred dermo-relaxing agents that will be mentioned include adenosine, manganese gluconate, wild yam, sea fennel, glycine and alverine.

7. Anti-glycation agents

The term "anti-glycation agent" means a compound that prevents and/or reduces the glycation of skin proteins, in particular dermal proteins such as collagen.

Anti-glycation agents that may especially be mentioned include extracts of plants of the Ericacea family, such as an extract of blueberry (Vaccinium angustifolium or Vaccinium myrtillus) , for example the product sold under the name Blueberry Herbasol Extract PG by the company Cosmetochem, ergothioneine and derivatives thereof, hydroxystilbenes and derivatives thereof, such as resveratrol and 3, 3' , 5, 5' -tetrahydroxystilbene (these anti-glycation agents are described in patent applications FR 2 802 425, FR 2 810 548, FR 2 796 278 and FR 2 802 420, respectively), dihydroxystilbenes and derivatives thereof, polypeptides of arginine and of lysine such as the product sold under the name Amadorine® by the company Solabia, carsinine hydrochloride (sold by Exsymol under the name Austin®) , an extract of Helianthus annuus, for instance Antiglyskin® from Silab, wine extracts such as the extract of powdered white wine on a maltodextrin support sold under the name Vin blanc deshydrate 2F by the company Givaudan, thioctic acid (or alpha-lipoic acid) , a mixture of extract of bearberry and of marine glycogen, for instance Aglycal LS 8777® from Laboratoires Serobiologiques, and an extract of black tea, for instance Kombuchka® from Sederma, and mixtures thereof .

Preferred anti-glycation agents that will be mentioned include extracts of blueberry (Vaccinium myrtillus) and extracts of black tea.

8. Agents for stimulating the synthesis of dermal and/or epidermal macromolecules and/or for preventing their degradation

Among the active agents for stimulating the dermal macromolecules or for preventing their degradation, mention may be made of those acting: - either on collagen synthesis, such as extracts of Centella asiatica, asiaticosides and derivatives thereof; ascorbic acid or vitamin C and derivatives thereof; synthetic peptides such as iamin, biopeptide CL or palmitoyl oligopeptide sold by the company Sederma; peptides extracted from plants, such as the soybean hydrolysate sold by the company Coletica under the trade name Phytokine®; rice peptides such as Nutripeptide® from Silab, methylsilanol mannuronate such as Algisium C® sold by Exsymol; plant hormones such as auxins and lignans; folic acid; and an extract of Medicago sativa (alfalfa) such as the product sold by Silab under the name Vitanol®; a peptide extract of hazelnut such as the product sold by the company Solabia under the name Nuteline C®; and arginine; or on the inhibition of collagen degradation, in particular agents acting on the inhibition of metalloproteases (MMP) more particularly such as MMP 1, 2, 3 and 9. Mention may be made of: retinoids and derivatives, extracts of Medicago sativa such as Vitanol® from Silab, an extract of Aphanizomenon flos- aquae (Cyanophyceae) sold under the name Lanablue® by Atrium Biotechnologies, oligopeptides and lipopeptides, lipoamino acids, the malt extract sold by the company Coletica under the trade name Collalift®; blueberry or rosemary extracts; lycopene; isoflavones, derivatives thereof or plant extracts containing them, in particular extracts of soybean (sold, for example, by the company Ichimaru Pharcos under the trade name Flavosterone SB®), of red clover, of flax or of kakkon; an extract of lychee such as the extract of lychee pericarp sold by the company Cognis under the name Litchiderm LS 9704®; Dipalmitoyl Hydroxyproline sold by SEPPIC under the name Sepilift DPHP®: Baccharis genistelloides or Baccharine sold by Silab, an extract of moringa such as Arganyl LS 9781® from Cognis; the sage extract described in patent application FR-A- 2 812 544 from the Labiatae family (Salvia officinalis from the company Flacksmann) , an extract of rhododendron, a blueberry extract, and an extract of Vaccinium myrtillus such as those described in patent application FR-A-2 814 950;

- or on the synthesis of molecules belonging to the elastin family (elastin and fibrillin), such as: retinol and derivatives, in particular retinyl palmitate; the extract of Saccharomyces cerevisiae sold by the company LSN under the trade name Cytovitin®; and the extract of the alga Macrocystis pyrifera sold by the company Secma under the trade name Kelpadelie®; a peptide extract of hazelnut such as the product sold by the company Solabia under the trade name Nuteline C®;

- or on inhibition of elastin degradation, such as the peptide extract of seeds of Pisum sativum sold by the company LSN under the trade name Parelastyl®; heparinoids; and the N-acylamino acid compounds described in patent application WO 01/94381, such as {2- [acetyl (3-trifluoromethylphenyl) amino] -3-methyl- butyrylamino } acetic acid, also known as N-[N-acetyl, N' - (3-trifluoromethyl) phenylvalyl] glycine, or N-acetyl- N- [3- (trifluoromethyl) phenyl] valyl glycine or acetyl trifluoromethyl phenyl valylglycine, or an ester thereof with a Ci-Cβ alcohol; an extract of rice peptides such as Colhibin® from Pentapharm, or an extract of Phyllanthus emblica such as Emblica® from Rona;

- or on the synthesis of glycosaminoglycans, such as the product of fermentation of milk with Lactobacillus vulgaris, sold by the company Brooks under the trade name Biomin Yoghurt®; the extract of the brown alga Padina pavonica sold by the company Alban Muller under the trade name HSP3®; the Saccharomyces cerevisiae extract available especially from the company Silab under the trade name Firmalift® or from the company LSN under the trade name Cytovitin®; an extract of Laminaria ochroleuca such as Laminaine® from Secma; essence of Mamaku from Lucas Meyer, and an extract of Cress (Odraline® from Silab) ; - or on the synthesis of fibronectin, such as the extract of the zooplankton Salina sold by the company Seporga under the trade name GP4G®; the yeast extract available especially from the company Alban Muller under the trade name Drieline®; and the palmitoyl pentapeptide sold by the company Sederma under the trade name Matrixyl®.

Among the active agents for stimulating epidermal macromolecules, such as fillagrin and keratins, mention may be made especially of the extract of lupin sold by the company Silab under the trade name Structurine®; the extract of Fagus sylvatica beech buds sold by the company Gattefosse under the trade name Gatuline® RC; and the extract of the zooplankton Salina sold by the company Seporga under the trade name GP4G®; the copper tripeptide from Procyte; a peptide extract of Voandzeia substerranea such as the product sold by the company Laboratoires Serobiologiques under the trade name Filladyn LS 9397®.

Preferably, an active agent that stimulates the synthesis of dermal and/or epidermal macromolecules and/or that prevents their degradation, chosen from agents for stimulating the synthesis of glycosaminoglycans, agents for inhibiting elastin degradation, agents for stimulating fibronectin synthesis, agents for stimulating the synthesis of epidermal macromolecules, and mixtures thereof, will preferably be used.

Even more preferentially, an active agent that stimulates the synthesis of the glycosaminoglycans, chosen from an extract of the brown alga Padina pavonica, an extract of Saccharomyces cerevisiae, an extract of Laminaria ochroleuca, essence of Mamaku, and an extract of cress, and mixtures thereof, will even more preferentially be used.

As preferred active agents for stimulating the synthesis of dermal and/or epidermal macromolecules and/or for preventing their degradation, mention may be made of: synthetic peptides such as iamin, the biopeptide CL or palmitoyloligopeptide sold by the company Sederma; peptides extracted from plants, such as the soybean hydrolysate sold by the company Coletica under the trade name Phytokine®; rice peptides such as Nutripeptide® from Silab, methylsilanol mannuronate such as Algisium C® sold by Exsymol; folic acid; an extract of Medicago sativa (alfalfa) , such as the product sold by Silab under the name Vitanol®; a peptide extract of hazelnut, such as the product sold by the company Solabia under the name Nuteline C®; arginine; an extract of Aphanizomenon flos-aquae

(Cyanophyceae) sold under the name Lanablue® by Atrium

Biotechnologies, the malt extract sold by the company Coletica under the trade name Collalift®, lycopene; an extract of lychee; an extract of moringa such as Arganyl LS 9781® from Cognis; an extract of Vaccinium myrtillus such as those described in patent application FR-A-2 814 950; retinol and derivatives thereof, in particular retinyl palmitate; the extract of Saccharomyces cerevisiae sold by the company LSN under the trade name Cytovitin®; a peptide extract of hazelnut such as the product sold by the company Solabia under the name Nuteline C®; { 2- [acetyl (3- trifluoromethylphenyl) amino] -3-methylbutyrylamino } - acetic acid, also known as N-[N-acetyl, N'-(3- trifluoromethyl) phenylvalyl] glycine, or N-acetyl-N- [3- ( trifluoromethyl) phenyl] valyl glycine or acetyl trifluoromethyl phenyl valylglycine, or an ester thereof with a Ci-Cβ alcohol; an extract of rice peptides such as Colhibin® from Pentapharm, or an extract of Phyllanthus emblica such as Emblica® from Rona; the extract of the brown alga Padina pavonica sold by the company Alban Muller under the trade name HSP3®; the extract of Saccharomyces cerevisiae available especially from the company Silab under the trade name Firmalift® or from the company LSN under the trade name Cytovitin®; an extract of Laminaria ochroleuca such as Laminaine® from Secma; the essence of Mamaku from Lucas Meyer, the extract of lupin sold by the company Silab under the trade name Structurine®; the extract of Fagus sylvatica beech buds sold by the company Gattefosse under the trade name Gatuline® RC.

9. Agents for stimulating fibroblast or keratinocyte proliferation and/or keratinocyte differentiation

The agents for stimulating fibroblast proliferation that may be used in the composition according to the invention may be chosen, for example, from plant proteins or polypeptides, extracted especially from soybean (for example a soybean extract sold by the company LSN under the name Eleseryl SH-VEG 8® or sold by the company Silab under the trade name Raffermine®) ; an extract of hydrolysed soybean proteins such as Ridulisse® from Silab; and plant hormones such as gibberellins and cytokinins; a peptide extract of hazelnut such as the product sold by the company Solabia under the name Nuteline C®.

Preferably, an agent that promotes keratinocyte proliferation and/or differentiation will be used.

The agents for stimulating keratinocyte proliferation that may be used in the composition according to the invention especially comprise adenosine; phloroglucinol, the extract of Hydrangea macrophylla leaves, for instance Amacha Liquid E® from Ichimaru Pharcos, a yeast extract such as Stimoderm® from CLR; the extract of Larrea divaricata such as Capislow® from Sederma, mixtures of extract of papaya, of olive leaves and of lemon, such as Xyleine® from Vincience, the extract of Hydrangea macrophylla leaves, for instance Amacha Liquid E® from Ichimaru Pharcos, retinol and esters thereof, including retinyl palmitate, phloroglucinol, the nut cake extracts sold by the Gattefosse and the extracts of Solanum tuberosum such as Dermolectine® sold by Sederma.

Among the agents for stimulating keratinocyte differentiation are, for example, minerals such as calcium; sea fennel, a peptide extract of lupin, such as the product sold by the company Silab under the trade name Structurine®; sodium beta-sitosteryl sulfate, such as the product sold by the company Seporga under the trade name Phytocohesine®; and a water-soluble extract of corn, such as the product sold by the company Solabia under the trade name Phytovityl®; a peptide extract of Voandzeia substerranea such as the product sold by the company Laboratoires Serobiologiques under the trade name Filladyn LS 9397®; and lignans such as secoisolariciresinol, and retinol and esters thereof, including retinyl palmitate.

As agents for stimulating keratinocyte proliferation and/or differentiation, mention may also be made of oestrogens such as oestradiol and homologues; cytokines .

As preferred active agents for stimulating fibroblast or keratinocyte proliferation and/or keratinocyte differentiation, mention will be made of plant proteins or polypeptides, extracted especially from soybean (for example a soybean extract sold by the company LSN under the name Eleseryl SH-VEG 8® or sold by the company Silab under the trade name Raffermine®) ; an extract of hydrolysed soybean proteins such as Ridulisse® from Silab; a peptide extract of hazelnut such as the product sold by the company Solabia under the name Nuteline C®; adenosine; phloroglucinol, a yeast extract such as Stimoderm® from CLR; a peptide extract of lupin such as the product sold by the company Silab under the trade name Structurine®; a water-soluble corn extract, such as the product sold by the company Solabia under the trade name Phytovityl®; a peptide extract of Voandzeia substerranea, such as the product sold by the company Laboratoires Serobiologiques under the trade name Filladyn LS 9397®; retinol and esters thereof, including retinyl palmitate.

10. Agents for promoting the maturation of the horny envelope

Agents that participate in the maturation of the horny envelope, which becomes impaired with age and induces a decrease in transglutaminase activity, may be used in the compositions of the invention. Examples that may be mentioned include urea and derivatives thereof and in particular Hydrovance® from National Starch and the other active agents mentioned in L'Oreal patent application FR 2 877 220 (unpublished) .

11. NO-synthase inhibitors

The agent with an inhibitory action on NO synthase may be chosen from OPCs (procyannidol oligomers) ; plant extracts of the species Vitis vinifera sold especially by the company Euromed under the name "Leucocyanidines de raisins extra", or by the company Indena under the name Leucoselect®, or finally by the company Hansen under the name "Extrait de marc de raisin"; plant extracts of the species Olea europaea preferably obtained from olive tree leaves and sold especially by the company Vinyals in the form of a dry extract, or by the company Biologia & Technologia under the trade name Eurol BT; and plant extracts of the species Gingko biloba, preferably a dry aqueous extract of this plant sold by the company Beaufour under the trade name "Ginkgo biloba extrait standard", and mixtures thereof.

12. Peripheral benzodiazepine receptor (PBR) antagonists

Mention may be made, for example, of 1- (2-chlorophenyl) - N- (1-methylpropyl) -3-isoquinoline carboxamide; the compounds described in patent applications WO 03/030 937 and WO 03/068 753, pyridazino [4, 5-b] indole-1-acetamide derivatives of general formula (VII) as described in document WO 00/44384.

13. Agents for increasing the activity of the sebaceous glands

Mention may be made, for example, of methyl dehydroj asmonate, hecogenin, hedione and 0-linoleyl-6D- glucose, and mixtures thereof.

14. Agents for stimulating the energy metabolism of cells

The active agent for stimulating the energy metabolism of cells may be chosen, for example, from biotin, an extract of Saccharomyces cerevisiae such as Phosphovital® from Sederma, the mixture of sodium, manganese, zinc and magnesium salts of pyrrolidonecarboxylic acid, for instance Physiogenyl® from Solabia, a mixture of zinc, copper and magnesium gluconate, such as Sepitonic M3® from SEPPIC, and mixtures thereof; a beta-glucan derived from Saccharomyces cerevisiae, such as the product sold by the company Mibelle AG Biochemistry.

15. Tensioning agents

The term "tensioning agent" that may be used according to the invention means compounds liable to have a tensioning effect, i.e. being able to make the skin taut .

According to the invention, the term "tensioning agent" generally means any polymer that is soluble or dispersible in water at a temperature ranging from 25°C to 50⁰C at a concentration of 7% by weight in water or at the maximum concentration at which a medium of uniform appearance is formed and producing at this concentration of 7% or at this maximum concentration in water a shrinkage of more than 15% in the test described below.

The maximum concentration at which a medium of uniform appearance forms is determined to within ± 10% and preferably to within ± 5%. The expression "medium of uniform appearance" means a medium that does not contain any aggregates that are visible to the naked eye.

For the determination of the said maximum concentration, the tensioning agent is gradually added to the water with deflocculating stirring at a temperature ranging from 25°C to 50⁰C, and the mixture is then stirred for one hour. The mixture thus prepared is then examined after 24 hours to see if it is of uniform appearance (absence of aggregates visible to the naked eye) .

The tensioning effect may be characterized by an in vitro shrinkage test.

A homogeneous mixture of the tensioning agent in water, at a concentration of 7% by weight or at the maximum concentration defined above, is prepared beforehand and as described previously.

30 μl of the homogeneous mixture are placed on a rectangular sample (10 x 40 mm, thus having an initial width Lo of 10 mm) of elastomer with a modulus of 20 MPa and a thickness of 100 μm.

After drying for 3 hours at 22 ± 3°C and 40 ± 10% relative humidity RH, the elastomer sample has a shrunken width, noted L_3h, due to the tension exerted by the applied tensioning agent.

The tensioning effect (TE) of the said polymer is then quantified in the following manner: λTE' = (L₀ - L_3h/Lo) x 100 as % with L₀ = initial width 10 mm and

L_3h = width after 3 hours of drying.

The tensioning agent may be chosen from: plant or animal proteins and hydrolysates thereof; polysaccharides of natural origin; mixed silicates; colloidal particles of mineral fillers; synthetic polymers; and mixtures thereof.

A person skilled in the art will know how to choose, from the chemical categories listed above, the materials corresponding to the tensioning test as described below.

Mention may be made especially of:

(a) plant proteins and protein hydrolysates, in particular of corn, rye, wheat, buckwheat, sesame, spelt, pea, bean, lentil, soybean and lupin,

(b) polysaccharides of natural origin, especially (a) polyholosides, for example (i) in the form of starch derived especially from rice, corn, potato, cassava, pea, wheat, oat, etc. or (ii) in the form of carrageenans, alginates, agars, gellans, cellulose polymers and pectins, advantageously as an aqueous dispersion of gel microparticles, and (b) latices consisting of shellac resin, sandarac gum, dammar resins, elemi gums, copal resins, cellulose derivatives, and mixtures thereof,

(c) mixed silicates, especially phyllosilicates and in particular Laponites,

(d) colloidal particles of mineral fillers with a number-average diameter of between 0.1 and 100 nm and preferably between 3 and 30 nm, and chosen, for example, from: silica, silica-alumina composites, cerium oxide, zirconium oxide, alumina, calcium carbonate, barium sulfate, calcium sulfate, zinc oxide and titanium dioxide. As silica-alumina composite colloidal particles that may be used in the compositions according to the invention, examples that may be mentioned include those sold by the company Grace under the names Ludox AM, Ludox AM-X 6021, Ludox HSA and Ludox TMA,

(e) synthetic polymers, such as polyurethane latices or acrylic-silicone latices, in particular those described in patent application EP-I 038 519, such as a polydimethylsiloxane grafted with propylthio (polymethyl acrylate) , propylthio (polymethyl methacrylate) and propylthio (polymethacrylic acid) , or alternatively a polydimethylsiloxane grafted with propylthio (polyiso- butyl methacrylate) and propylthio (polymethacrylic acid) . Such grafted silicone polymers are especially sold by the company 3M under the trade names VS 80, VS 70 and LO21.

The tensioning agent will be present in the composition in an amount that is effective for obtaining the desired biological effect according to the invention.

By way of example, the tensioning agent may be included in the composition according to the invention in a content ranging from 0.01% to 30% by weight of active material and preferably from 1% to 30% by weight of active material relative to the total weight of the composition .

The term "active material" is intended to exclude the medium in which the tensioning agent may be dissolved or dispersed in its commercial form, for example in the case of dispersions of colloidal particles.

It is also possible, especially in order to complement and/or potentiate the effect of tensioning agents, to use agents that increase the expression of mechanoreceptors, such as agents that increase the expression of integrins .

An example that may be mentioned is an extract of rye seed, such as the product sold by Silab under the name Coheliss®.

16. Fat-restructuring agents

According to the invention, the term "fat-restructuring agents" means agents capable of stimulating lipogenesis and of promoting adipocyte differentiation, thus making it possible to prevent or slow down the wasting of fat contained in the skin supporting tissues, also known as "wasting of skin fat".

The term "skin fat" means the network of fat cells that form the volumes on which the facial skin rests and is moulded.

These agents are intended to reduce the loss of skin density and/or the wasting of skin fat, in particular on the cheeks and around the eyes, and/or to prevent the collapse and/or hollowing of the facial volumes, the loss of consistency of the skin and/or its maintenance, in particular on the cheeks and around the eyes, and/or to improve the underlying volumes of the skin of the face and/or the neck, in particular on the cheeks, the oval of the face and around the eyes, and/or to improve the density, springiness and maintenance of the skin, in particular on the cheeks, the oval of the face and around the eyes, and/or to remodel the facial features, in particular the oval of the face .

Examples of fat-restructuring agents that may especially be mentioned include an extract of black tea, such as the extract of fermented black tea sold by Sederma under the name Kombuchka®, and an extract of Artemisia abrotanum, such as the product sold by Silab under the name Pulpactyl®*

17. Slimming agents Slimming (lipolytic) agents that may especially be mentioned include theophylline and its derivatives, theobromine, acefylline, aminophylline, chloroethyl- theophylline, diprofylline, diniprophylline, etami- phylline and its derivatives, etofylline and proxyphylline; extracts of tea, of coffee, of guarana, of mate, of cola (Cola nitIda) and especially the dry extract of guarana fruit (Paulina sorbllls) containing 8% to 10% caffeine; extracts of climbing ivy (Hedera helix) , of arnica (Arnica montana L) , of rosemary (Rosmarinus officinalis N), of marigold (Calendula officinalis) , of sage (Salvia officinalis L) , of ginseng (Panax ginseng) , of St. -John's wort (Hypericum perforatum) , of butcher' s-broom (Ruscus aculeatus L), of meadowsweet (Flllpendula ulmarla L) , of orthosiphon

(Orthoslphon stamlncus Benth) , of birch (Betula alba) , of pumpwood and of argan tree, extracts of ginkgo biloba, extracts of horsetail, extracts of escin, extracts of cangzhu, extracts of Chrysanthellum Indlcum, extracts of diosgenin-rich Dioscorea plants or pure diosgenin or hecogenin and derivatives thereof, extracts of Ballota, extracts of Guloa, of Davallla, of Termlnalla, of Barrlngtonla, of Trema or of Antlrobla, the extract of bitter orange pips; an extract of husks of cocoa beans (Theobroma cacao) such as the product sold by Solabia under the name Caobromine®.

18. Agents for promoting the cutaneous microcirculation

The active agent acting on the cutaneous microcirculation may be used for preventing dulling of the complexion and/or to improve the appearance of the area around the eyes, in particular to reduce the shadows around the eyes. It may be chosen, for example, from an extract of maritime pine bark, for instance Pycnogenol® from Biolandes, manganese gluconate (Givobio GMn® from SEPPIC) , an extract of Ammi visnaga such as Visnadine from Indena, extract of lupin (Eclaline® from Silab) , the protein coupling of hydrolysed wheat/palmitic acid with palmitic acid, such as Epaline 100 from Laboratoires Carilene, the extract of bitter orange blossom (Remoduline® from Silab) , vitamin P and derivatives thereof, for instance methyl-4 esculetol sodium monoethanoate sold under the name Permethol® by the company Sephytal, extracts of Ruscus, of common horse chestnut, of ivy, of ginseng and of melilot, caffeine, nicotinate and derivatives thereof, lysine and derivatives thereof, for instance Asparlyne® from Solabia, an extract of black tea such as Kombuchka from Sederma; rutin salts; an extract of the alga Corallina officinalis, such as the product sold by Codif; and mixtures thereof.

As preferred agents for promoting the cutaneous microcirculation, mention will be made of caffeine, an extract of bitter orange blossom, an extract of black tea, rutin salts and an extract of the alga Corallina officinalis .

19. Calmatives or anti-irritants

The term "calmative" means a compound that can reduce the sensation of stinging, itching or tautness of the skin .

As calmatives that may be used in the composition according to the invention, mention may be made of: procyannidol oligomers, vitamins E, C, B5 and B3, caffeine and derivatives thereof, pentacylic triterpenes and plant extracts containing them, β-glycyrrhetinic acid and salts or derivatives thereof (stearyl glycyrrhetate, 3-stearoyloxyglycyrrhetic acid or glycyrrhetinic acid monoglucuronide) and also plants containing them (e.g.: Glycyrrhiza glabra) , oleanolic acid and salts thereof, ursolic acid and salts thereof, boswellic acid and salts thereof, betulinic acid and salts thereof, an extract of Paeonia suffruticosa and/or lactiflora, an extract of Laminaria saccharina, extracts of Centella asiatica, Canola oil, bisabolol, the phosphoric diester of vitamin E and C, for instance Sepivital EPC® from SEPPIC, camomile extracts, allantoin, omega-3 unsaturated oils such as musk rose oil, blackcurrant oil, Ecchium oil, fish oil or beauty- leaf oil, plankton extracts, capryloyl glycine, a mixture of water lily blossom extract and of palmitoylproline, such as the product sold under the name Seppicalm VG® by the company SEPPIC, an extract of Boswellia serrata, an extract of Centipeda cunninghami, such as the product sold under the name Cehami PF® by the company TRI-K Industries, an extract of sunflower seeds, in particular Helioxine® from Silab, an extract of Linum usitatissimum seeds, for instance Sensiline® from Silab, tocotrienols, piperonal, an extract of Epilobium angustifolium, such as the product sold under the name Canadian Willowherb Extract by the company Fytokem Products, Aloe vera, phytosterols, cornflower water, rose water, an extract of mint, in particular of mint leaves, for instance Calmiskin® from Silab, aniseed derivatives, filamentous bacteria, for instance Vitreoscilla filiformis as described in patent EP 761 204 and sold by Chimex under the name Mexoryl SBG®, an extract of rose petals, for instance Rose Flower Herbasol® extract from the company Cosmetochem, shea butter, a mixture of the waxy fraction of barley seeds obtained by supercritical CO2, of shea butter and of argan oil, for instance Stimu-tex AS® from Pentapharm, alkaline-earth metal salts, especially of strontium, a fermented extract of Alteromonas sold under the name Abyssine® by the company Atrium Biotechnologies; spring water from the Vichy basin, such as waters originating from the Celestin, Chomel, Grande-Grille, Hδpital, Lucas and Pare sources, and preferably water from the Lucas source; an extract of Eperua falcata bark, such as the product sold by the company Cognis under the name Eperuline®; an extract of Paeonia suffruticosa root, such as the product sold by the company Ichimaru Pharcos under the name Botanpi Liquid B®; and mixtures thereof.

As preferred calmatives according to the invention, use will be made of: β-glycyrrhetinic acid and salts or derivatives thereof (stearyl glycyrrhetate, 3-stearoyloxyglycyrrhetic acid or glycyrrhetinic acid monoglucuronide) and also plants containing them (e.g. Glycyrrhiza glabra); ursolic acid and salts thereof; extracts of Centella asiatica, Canola oil, bisabolol; camomile extracts, allantoin; a mixture of extract of water lily blossom and of palmitoylproline, such as the product sold under the name Seppicalm VG® by the company SEPPIC; Aloe vera, rose water, extract of mint, in particular of mint leaves, such as Calmiskin® from Silab, filamentous bacteria such as Vitreoscilla filiformis as described in patent EP 761 204 and sold by Chimex under the name Mexoryl SBG®, an extract of rose petals such as Rose Flower Herbasol® extract from the company Cosmetochem, shea butter, a fermented extract of Alteromonas sold under the name Abyssine® by the company Atrium Biotechnologies; spring water from the Vichy basin, such as waters originating from the Celestin, Chomel, Grande-Grille, Hδpital, Lucas and Pare sources, and preferably water from the Lucas source; an extract of Eperua falcata bark, such as the product sold by the company Cognis under the name Eperuline®; an extract of Paeonia suffruticosa root, such as the product sold by the company Ichimaru Pharcos under the name Botanpi Liquid B®; and mixtures thereof.

20. Sebo-regulating or anti-seborrhoeic agents The term "sebo-regulating or anti-seborrhoeic agents" especially means agents capable of regulating the activity of the sebaceous glands.

Mention may be made especially of: retinoic acid, benzoyl peroxide, sulfur, vitamin B6 (or pyridoxine) , selenium chloride and sea fennel ;

- mixtures of extract of cinnamon, of tea and of octanoylglycine such as Sepicontrol A5 TEA® from

SEPPIC; the mixture of cinnamon, sarcosine and octanoylglycine sold especially by the company SEPPIC under the trade name Sepicontrol A5®; - zinc salts such as zinc gluconate, zinc pyrrolidonecarboxylate (or zinc pidolate) , zinc lactate, zinc aspartate, zinc carboxylate, zinc salicylate and zinc cysteate;

- copper derivatives and in particular copper pidolate such as Cuivridone® from Solabia; extracts of plants of the species Arnica montana, Cinchona succirubra, Eugenia caryophyllata, Humulus lupulus, Hypericum perforatum, Mentha piperita, Rosmarinus officinalis, Salvia oficinalis and Thymus vulgaris, all sold, for example, by the company Maruzen; extracts of meadowsweet (Spiraea ulmaria) , such as the product sold under the name Sebonormine® by the company Silab; - extracts of the alga Laminaria saccharina, such as the product sold under the name Phlorogine® by the company Biotechmarine;

- mixtures of extracts of salad burnet root (Sanguisorba officinalis/Poterium officinale) , of ginger rhizomes (Zingiber officinalis) and of cinnamon bark (Cinnamomum cassia) , such as the product sold under the name Sebustop® by the company Solabia;

- linseed extracts, such as the product sold under the name Linumine® by the company Lucas Meyer;

Phellodendron extracts, such as those sold under the name Phellodendron extract BG by the company Maruzen or Oubaku liquid B by the company Ichimaru Pharcos;

- mixtures of argan oil, of Serenoa serrulata (saw palmetto) extract and of sesame seed extract, such as the product sold under the name Regu SEB® by the company Pentapharm; - mixtures of extracts of willowherb, of

Terminalia chebula, of nasturtium and of bioavailable zinc (microalgae) , such as the product sold under the name Seborilys® by the company Green Tech; extracts of Pygeum afrianum, such as the product sold under the name Pygeum afrianum sterolic lipid extract by the company Euromed;

- extracts of Serenoa serrulata, such as the products sold under the name Viapure Sabal by the company Actives International or those sold by the company Euromed;

- mixtures of extracts of plantain, of Berberis aquifolium and of sodium salicylate, such as the product sold under the name Seboclear® by the company Rahn; - clove extract, such as the product sold under the name Clove extract powder by the company Maruzen;

- argan oil, such as the product sold under the name Lipofructyl® by Laboratoires Serobiologiques;

- lactic protein filtrates, such as the product sold under the name Normaseb® by the company Sederma;

- extracts of the alga Laminaria, such as the product sold under the name Laminarghane® by the company Biotechmarine; oligosaccharides of the alga Laminaria digitata, such as the product sold under the name Phycosaccharide AC by the company Codif;

- sugar cane extracts, such as the product sold under the name Policosonol® by the company Sabinsa; sulfonated shale oil, such as the product sold under the name Ichthyol Pale® by the company Ichthyol;

European meadowsweet (Spiraea ulmaria) extracts, such as the product sold under the name Cytobiol® Ulmaire by the company Libiol;

- sebacic acid, especially sold in the form of a sodium polyacrylate gel under the name Sebosoft® by the company Sederma; - glucomannans extracted from konjac tuber and modified with alkylsulfonate chains, such as the product sold under the name Biopol Beta by the company Arch Chemical; extracts of Sophora angustifolia, such as those sold under the name Sophora powder or Sophora extract by the company Bioland;

- extracts of Cinchona succirubra bark, such as the product sold under the name Red Bark HS by the company Alban Muller; - extracts of Quillaja saponaria, such as the product sold under the name Panama wood HS by the company Alban Muller;

- glycine grafted onto an undecylenic chain, such as the product sold under the name Lipacide UG OR by the company SEPPIC;

- the mixture of oleanolic acid and of nordihydroguaiaretic acid, such as the product sold in the form of a gel under the name AC. Net by the company Sederma; - phthalimidoperoxyhexanoic acid;

- tri (C12-C13) alkyl citrate sold under the name Cosmacol® ECI by the company Sasol; tri (Ci₄-Ci₅) alkyl citrate sold under the name Cosmacol® ECL by the company Sasol; - 10-hydroxydecanoic acid, and especially mixtures of 10-hydroxydecanoic acid, of sebacic acid and of 1, 10-decanediol, such as the product sold under the name Acnacidol® BG by the company Vincience; and - mixtures thereof .

Preferred anti-seborrhoeic active agents that may be mentioned include: - benzoyl peroxide and vitamin B6 (or pyridoxine) , zinc salts such as zinc gluconate, zinc pyrrolidonecarboxylate (or zinc pidolate) , zinc lactate, zinc aspartate, zinc carboxylate, zinc salicylate and zinc cysteate;

- meadowsweet (Spiraea ulmaria) extracts, such as the product sold under the name Sebonormine® by the company Silab; extracts of the alga Laminaria saccharina, such as the product sold under the name Phlorogine® by the company Biotechmarine;

- clove extract, such as the product sold under the name Clove extract powder by the company Maruzen;

- sebacic acid, especially sold in the form of a sodium polyacrylate gel under the name Sebosoft® by the company Sederma; glycine grafted onto an undecylenic chain, such as the product sold under the name Lipacide UG OR by the company SEPPIC; - tri (C12-C13) alkyl citrate sold under the name

Cosmacol® ECI by the company Sasol; tri (Ci₄-Ci₅) alkyl citrate sold under the name Cosmacol® ECL by the company Sasol; 10-hydroxydecanoic acid, and especially mixtures of 10-hydroxydecanoic acid, of sebacic acid and of 1, 10-decanediol, such as the product sold under the name Acnacidol® BG by the company Vincience; and - mixtures thereof.

Preferentially, the anti-seborrhoeic active agent is chosen from: zinc salts such as zinc gluconate, zinc pyrrolidonecarboxylate (or zinc pidolate) , zinc lactate, zinc aspartate, zinc carboxylate, zinc salicylate and zinc cysteate; and preferably zinc pyrrolidonecarboxylate (or zinc pidolate) or zinc salicylate; - clove extract, such as the product sold under the name Clove extract powder by the company Maruzen;

- glycine grafted onto an undecylenic chain, such as the product sold under the name Lipacide UG OR by the company SEPPIC; - tri (C12-C13) alkyl citrate sold under the name

Cosmacol® ECI by the company Sasol; tri (Ci₄-Ci₅) alkyl citrate sold under the name Cosmacol® ECL by the company Sasol;

- and mixtures thereof.

The anti-seborrhoeic active agent is, for example, present in a content ranging from 0.1% to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.1% to 5% by weight and preferentially from 0.5% to 3% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

21. Astringents

According to the invention, the term "astringents" means agents for combating the dilation of the sebaceous follicles.

As astringents that may be used in the composition according to the invention, mention may be made of extracts of mushroom pulp (Polyporus officinalis) , for instance Laricyl LS8865® from Cognis, extracts of Terminalia catappa and Sambucus nigra, for instance Phytofirm LS9120® from Cognis, extracts of gall nut, for instance Tanlex VE® from Ichimaru Pharcos, aluminium hydroxychloride, centella extracts (e.g. Plantactiv centella from Cognis) , dicetyl dimethylammonium chloride, for instance Varisoft 432 CG® from Degussa, common horse chestnut extracts, mallow extracts, witch-hazel extracts, sweet almond extracts, marshmallow root extracts and linseed extracts, for instance Almondermin LS 3380® from Cognis, burdock extracts, nettle extracts, birch extracts, horsetail extracts, camomile extracts, for instance those sold under the name Extrapone 9 special® by the company Symrise, skullcap extracts, European meadowsweet extracts (for example Cytobiol Ulmaire from Libiol) , a mixture of extracts of white ginger, of horsetail, of nettle, of rosemary and of yucca, for instance Herb extract B1348® from Bell Flavors & Fragrances, extracts of acacia, of elm, of white willow, of cinnamon, of birch and of meadowsweet, Panama sapogenins, zinc phenolsulfonate from Interchemical, extracts of gentian, of cucumber and of walnut, the mixture of extracts of Ratanhia, of grapefruit, of gumweed and of oak gall, for instance Epilami® from Alban Muller.

As preferred astringents according to the invention, use will be made of skullcap extracts, European meadowsweet extracts, meadowsweet extracts, gentian extracts and burdock extracts, and mixtures thereof.

22. Cicatrizing agents

Examples of cicatrizing agents that may especially be mentioned include: allantoin, urea, certain amino acids, for instance hydroxyproline, arginine, and serine, and also extracts of white lily (for instance Phytelene Lys 37EG 16295 from Indena) , a yeast extract, for instance the cicatrizing agent LS LO/7225B from Laboratoires Serobiologiques) , tamanu oil, extract of Saccharomyces cerevisiae, for instance Biodynes® TRF® from Arch Chemical, oat extracts, chitosan and derivatives, for instance chitosan glutamate, carrot extracts, artemia extract, for instance GP4G® from Vincience, sodium acexamate, lavandin extracts, propolis extracts, ximeninic acid and salts thereof, rose hip oil, marigold extracts, for instance Souci Ami® Liposolible from Alban Muller, horsetail extracts, lemon peel extracts, for instance Herbasol® citron from Cosmetochem, helichrysum extracts, common yarrow extracts and folic acid.

As preferred cicatrizing agents according to the invention, use will be made of arginine, serine, folic acid, tamanu oil, sodium acexamate, horsetail extracts and helichrysum extracts, and mixtures thereof.

23. Anti-inflammatory agents

As particular anti-inflammatory agents that may be used according to the invention, mention may be made of cortisone, hydrocortisone, indomethacin, betamethasone, azelaic acid, acetaminophen, diclofenac, clobetasol propionate, folic acid; an extract of Eperua falcata bark, such as the product sold by the company Cognis under the name Eperuline®; an extract of Paeonia suffruticosa root, such as the product sold by the company Ichimaru Pharcos under the name Botanpi Liquid B®; and mixtures thereof.

Preferred anti-inflammatory agents that will be mentioned are azelaic acid, folic acid, an extract of Eperua falcata bark, such as the product sold by the company Cognis under the name Eperuline®; an extract of Paeonia suffruticosa root, such as the product sold by the company Ichimaru Pharcos under the name Botanpi Liquid B®; and mixtures thereof.

24. Antiacne agents

In one advantageous aspect of the invention, the composition may also comprise at least one anti-acne active agent.

The term "antiacne active agent" especially means any active agent that has effects on the specific flora of greasy skin, for instance Propionibacterium acnes (P. acnes) . These effects may be bactericidal.

Antibactericidal active agents that may especially be mentioned include: - active agents and preserving agents with antimicrobial activity mentioned in patent application DE 103 24 567, which is incorporated into the present invention by reference,

- Asiatic acid, - the monoethanolamine salt of l-hydroxy-4- methyl 6-trimethylpentyl-2-pyridone (INCI name: piroctone olamine) , sold especially under the name Octopirox® by the company Clariant; citronellic acid, perillic acid (or 4- isopropenylcyclohex-1-enecarboxylic acid) , glyceryl 2-ethylhexyl ether (INCI name: ethylhexylglycerine) , for example sold under the name Sensiva SC 50® by the company Shulke & Mayr,

- glyceryl caprylate/caprate, for example sold under the name Capmul MCM® by the company Abitec; sodium calcium phosphosilicate, especially sold under the names Bioactive Glasspowder® and Actysse Premier BG® by the company Schott Glass; silver-based particles, for example those sold under the name Metashine ME 2025 PS® by the company Nippon Sheet Glass;

- hop cone extract (Humulus lupulus) obtained by supercritical CO2 extraction, such as the product sold under the name HOP CO2-TO extract® by the company Flavex Naturextrakte,

St. -John' s Wort extract obtained by supercritical CO2 extraction, such as the product sold under the name St. -John's Wort CO2-TO extract® by the company Flavex Naturextrakte, the mixture of extracts of roots of Scutellaria baicalensis, of Paeonia suffruticosa and Glycyrrhiza glabra, such as the product sold under the name BMB - CF® by the company Naturogin, argan tree extract, for instance Argapure LS9710® from Cognis; bearberry leaf extracts, for instance the product sold under the name Melfade-J by the company Pentapharm;

- lO-hydroxy-2-decanoic acid such as Acnacidol P® from Vincience, sodium ursolate, azelaic acid, diiodomethyl p-tolyl sulfone such as Amical Flowable® from Angus, malachite powder, zinc oxide such as Zincare® from Elementis GMBH, octadecenedioic acid such as Arlatone dioic DCA® from Uniqema; ellagic acid; 2, 4, 4' -trichloro-2' -hydroxydiphenyl ether (or triclosan) , 1- (3' , 4' -dichlorophenyl) -3- (4' -chloro- phenyl)urea (or triclocarban) , 3, 4, 4' -trichloro- carbanilide, 3' , 4' , 5' -trichlorosalicylanilide, phenoxy- ethanol, phenoxypropanol, phenoxyisopropanol, hexamidine isethionate, metronidazole and salts thereof, miconazole and salts thereof, itraconazole, terconazole, econazole, ketoconazole, saperconazole, fluconazole, clotrimazole, butoconazole, oxiconazole, sulfaconazole, sulconazole, terbinafine, ciclopirox, ciclopiroxolamine, undecylenic acid and salts thereof, benzoyl peroxide, 3-hydroxybenzoic acid, 4- hydroxybenzoic acid, phytic acid, N-acetyl-L-cysteine, lipoic acid, azelaic acid and salts thereof, arachidonic acid, resorcinol, 3, 4, 4' -trichloro- carbanalide, octoxyglycerine or octoglycerine, octanoylglycine such as Lipacid C8G® from SEPPIC, caprylyl glycol, lO-hydroxy-2-decanoic acid, dichlorophenylimidazoldioxolane and derivatives thereof described in patent application WO 93/18743, iodopropynyl butylcarbamate, 3, 7, 11-trimethyldodeca- 2, 5, 10-trienol or farnesol, phytosphingosines; quaternary ammonium salts, for instance cetyltrimethylammonium salts and cetylpyridinium salts, and

- mixtures thereof.

Mention may also be made of certain surfactants with an antimicrobial effect, for instance sodium cocoamphoacetate or disodium diacetate such as Miranol C2M Cone. NP, betaines, for instance the cocoyl betaine Genagen KB from Clariant, sodium lauryl ether sulfate, for instance Emal 270 D from Kao, decyl glucoside, for instance Plantacare 2000 UP, branched C12-13 dialkyl malates, for instance Cosmacol EMI, propylene glycol monoesters, for instance propylene glycol monolaurate, monocaprylate or monocaprate, lauryldimethylamine betaine, for instance Empigen BB/LS, and also polyquaternary ammoniums such as Quaternium-24 or Bardac 2050 from Lonza and those described in patent FR 0 108 283, and mixtures thereof.

As preferred antimicrobial agents, an agent chosen from caprylyl glycol, octoglycerine or octoxyglycerine, and 10-hydroxy-2-decanoic acid, and mixtures thereof, will be used in the compositions of the invention.

Other additional anti-acne active agents may be added to the abovementioned anti-acne active agents. Mention may be made especially of active agents with bacterial anti-adhesion effects or agents that act on the biofilm of bacteria to prevent them from multiplying .

As agents for preventing and/or reducing the adhesion of microorganisms, mention may be made especially of: phytanetriol and derivatives thereof as described in patent application EP 1 529 523, plant oils such as wheatgerm oil, calendula oil, castor oil, olive oil, avocado oil, sweet almond oil, groundnut oil, jojoba oil, sesame seed oil, apricot kernel oil, sunflower oil and macadamia oil, described in patent EP 1 133 979, or certain surfactants such as disodium cocoamphodiacetate, oxyethylenated (7 EO) glyceryl cocoate, 18-hexadecenyl succinate, octoxyglyceryl palmitate, octoxyglyceryl behenate, dioctyl adipate, PPG-15 stearyl ether, and the branched C12-C13 dialkyl tartrates described in patent EP 1 129 694, and mixtures thereof.

In particular with regard to the propagation of P. acnes, or as active agents that act on the biofilm of bacteria to prevent them from proliferating, mention may be made of pentylene glycol, Nylon-66 (polyamide 66 fibres), rice bran oil, polyvinyl alcohol such as Celvol 540 PV alcohol® from Celanese Chemical, rapeseed oil such as Akorex L® from Karlshamns, and fructose derivatives, and mixtures thereof.

The anti-acne active agent may be present in a content ranging from 0.01% to 10% by weight and preferably from 0.05% to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

As a function of the nature and/or solubility of the abovementioned active agents, a person skilled in the art will know how to select the most suitable embodiment according to the invention.

As lipophilic active agents that may be used in the kit or at least one of the compositions of the invention, mention may be made especially of D-α-tocopherol, DL-α- tocopherol, D-α-tocopheryl acetate, DL-α-tocopheryl acetate, ascorbyl palmitate, vitamin F glycerides, D vitamins, vitamin D2, vitamin D3, retinol, retinol esters, retinyl palmitate, retinyl propionate, carotenes including β-carotene, D-panthenol, farnesol, farnesyl acetate, salicylic acid and derivatives thereof, for instance 5-n-octanoylsalicylic acid, α- hydroxy acid alkyl esters such as citric acid, lactic acid, glycolic acid, asiatic acid, madecassic acid, asiaticoside, the total extract of Centella asiatica, β-glycyrrhetinic acid, α-bisabolol, ceramides, for instance 2-oleoylamino-l, 3-octadecane, phytanetriol, phospholipids of marine origin rich in polyunsaturated essential fatty acids, ethoxyquine, rosemary extract, balm extract, quercetin, extract of dried microalgae, essential oil of bergamot, octyl methoxycinnamate, butylmethoxydibenzoylmethane, octyl triazone, 3,5-di- tert-butyl-4 -hydroxy-3-benzylidenecamphor, antibiotics, antifungal agents, anaesthetics, analgesics, antiseptics, antiviral agents, pesticides and herbicides, and mixtures thereof.

The cosmetic and/or dermatological active agents will be present in the kit or one of the compositions according to the invention in a content ranging from 0.001% to 20% relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably from 0.01% to 10%, even more preferentially from 0.5% to 5% and more preferably from 0.1% to 1% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

For "scrubbing" applications, the contents of cosmetic and/or dermatological active agents may range from 1% to 50% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition and preferably from 1% to 30% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

Scrubbing is a well-known means for improving the appearance and/or texture of the skin and/or the scalp, especially for improving the radiance and homogeneity of the complexion and/or for reducing the visible and/or tactile irregularities of the skin, and in particular for improving the surface appearance of the skin, for attenuating actinic lentigo, acne or chicken pox marks, and also for preventing, attenuating or combating the signs of ageing of the skin, and especially for smoothing out irregularities in the texture of the skin, such as wrinkles and fine lines.

It has the effect of removing a surface part of the skin to be treated (epidermis and possibly the upper layer of the dermis), via chemical methods.

OTHER ADDITIONAL INGREDIENTS

To complement and/or optimize the effects imparted by the cosmetic and/or dermatological active agents mentioned above on the keratin materials, it may be advantageous to incorporate into the compositions of the invention other additional ingredients.

In particular, these additional ingredients may impart an immediate visual effect that will be relayed by the biological effect of the active agents mentioned above. They may also, via a mechanical action (e.g.: abrasive fillers) , amplify the effect of the biological active agents mentioned above.

Thus, the composition according to the invention may also comprise at least one agent chosen from matting agents, fillers with a soft-focus effect, fluorescers, agents for promoting the naturally pinkish coloration of the skin, abrasive fillers or exfoliants, and mixtures thereof.

Matting agents

The term "matting agent" means agents intended to make the skin visibly more matt and less shiny.

The matting effect of the agent and/or composition containing it may especially be evaluated using a gonioreflectometer, by measuring the ratio R between the specular reflection and the scattered reflection. A value of R of less than or equal to 2 generally reflects a matting effect.

The matting agent may especially be chosen from a rice starch or a corn starch, kaolinite, talc, a pumpkin seed extract, cellulose microbeads, plant fibres, synthetic fibres, in particular polyamide fibres, expanded acrylic copolymer microspheres, polyamide powders, silica powders, polytetrafluoroethylene powders, silicone resin powders, acrylic polymer powders, wax powders, polyethylene powders, powders of elastomeric crosslinked organopolysiloxane coated with silicone resin, talc/titanium dioxide/alumina/silica composite powders, amorphous mixed silicate powders, silicate particles and especially mixed silicate particles, and mixtures thereof.

Examples of matting agents that may especially be mentioned include: rice or corn starch, in particular an aluminium starch octenyl succinate sold under the name Dry Flo® by the company National Starch;

- kaolinite;

- silicas;

- talc; a pumpkin seed extract as sold under the name Curbilene® by the company Indena; cellulose microbeads as described in patent application EP 1 562 562; - fibres, such as silk fibre, cotton fibre, wool fibre, flax fibre, cellulose fibre extracted especially from wood, from vegetables or from algae, polyamide fibre

(Nylon®) , modified cellulose fibre, poly-p- phenyleneterephthamide fibre, acrylic fibre, polyolefin fibre, glass fibre, silica fibre, aramid fibre, carbon fibre, Teflon® fibre, insoluble collagen fibre, polyester fibre, polyvinyl chloride or polyvinylidene chloride fibre, polyvinyl alcohol fibre, polyacrylonitrile fibre, chitosan fibre, polyurethane fibre, polyethylene phthalate fibre, fibres formed from a mixture of polymers, resorbable synthetic fibres, and mixtures thereof described in patent application EP 1 151 742;

- expanded acrylic copolymer microspheres such as those sold by the company EXPANCEL under the name Expancel

551®;

- fillers with an optical effect as described in patent application FR 2 869 796, in particular: polyamide powders (Nylon®) , for instance Nylon 12 particles of the Orgasol type from Arkema, with a mean size of 10 microns and a refractive index of 1.54,

- silica powders, for instance Silica beads SB150 from Miyoshi with a mean size of 5 microns and a refractive index of 1.45, - polytetrafluoroethylene powders, for instance PTFE Ceridust 9205F from Clariant, with a mean size of 8 microns and a refractive index of 1.36, silicone resin powders, for instance the silicone resin Tospearl 145A from GE Silicone with a mean size of 4.5 microns and a refractive index of 1.41, acrylic copolymer powders, especially of polymethyl (meth) acrylate, for instance the PMMA particles Jurymer MBI from Nihon Junyoki, with a mean size of 8 microns and a refractive index of 1.49, or the Micropearl M100® and F 80 ED® particles from the company Matsumoto Yushi-Seiyaku,

- wax powders, for instance the paraffin wax particles Microease 114S from Micropowders, with a mean size of

7 microns and a refractive index of 1.54,

- polyethylene powders, especially comprising at least one ethylene/acrylic acid copolymer, and in particular consisting of ethylene/acrylic acid copolymers, for instance the particles Flobeads EA 209 from Sumitomo (with a mean size of 10 microns and a refractive index of 1.48) , elastomeric crosslinked organopolysiloxane powders coated with silicone resin, especially with silsesquioxane resin, as described, for example, in patent US 5 538 793. Such elastomeric powders are sold under the names KSP-100, KSP-101, KSP-102, KSP-103, KSP-104 and KSP-105 by the company Shin-Etsu, and talc/titanium dioxide/alumina/silica composite powders such as those sold under the name Coverleaf® AR-80 by the company Catalyst & Chemicals,

- mixtures thereof, compounds that absorb and/or adsorb sebum as described in patent application FR 2 869 796. Mention may be made especially of: silica powders, for instance the porous silica microspheres sold under the name Silica Beads SB-700 sold by the company Miyoshi, the products Sunsphere® H51, Sunsphere® H33 and Sunsphere® H53 sold by the company Asahi Glass; the polydimethylsiloxane-coated amorphous silica microspheres sold under the name SA Sunsphere® H-33 and SA Sunsphere® H-53 sold by the company Asahi Glass; amorphous mixed silicate powders, especially of aluminium and magnesium, for instance the product sold under the name Neusilin UFL2 by the company Sumitomo; polyamide (Nylon®) powders, for instance Orgasol® 4000 sold by the company Arkema, and acrylic polymer powders, especially of polymethyl methacrylate, for instance Covabead® LH85 sold by the company Wackherr; of polymethyl methacrylate/ethylene glycol dimethacrylate, for instance Dow Corning 5640 Microsponge® Skin Oil Adsorber sold by the company Dow Corning, or Ganzpearl® GMP-0820 sold by the company Ganz Chemical; of polyallyl methacrylate/ethylene glycol dimethacrylate, for instance Poly-Pore® L200 or Poly-Pore® E200 sold by the company Amcol; of ethylene glycol dimethacrylate/lauryl methacrylate copolymer, for instance Polytrap^® 6603 sold by the company Dow Corning;

- silicate particles, such as alumina silicate;

- mixed silicate particles, such as: - magnesium aluminium silicate particles, such as saponite or hydrated magnesium aluminium silicate with a sodium sulfate sold under the trade name Sumecton® by the company Kunimine;

- the magnesium silicate, hydroxyethylcellulose, black cumin oil, marrow oil and phospholipids complex or

Matipure® from Lucas Meyer, and

- mixtures thereof.

Preferred matting agents that may be used according to the invention include a pumpkin seed extract, a rice or corn starch, kaolinite, silicas, talc, polyamide powders, polyethylene powders, acrylic copolymer powders, expanded acrylic copolymer microspheres, silicone resin microbeads and mixed silicate particles, and mixtures thereof. Fillers with a soft-focus effect

These fillers may be any material capable of modifying and hiding wrinkles by virtue of their intrinsic physical properties. These fillers may especially modify wrinkles via a tensioning effect, a covering effect or a soft-focus effect.

Examples of fillers that may be given include the following compounds:

- porous silica microparticles, for instance the silica beads SB150 and SB700 from Miyoshi with a mean size of 5 μm; the series-H Sunspheres from Asahi Glass, for instance Sunspheres H33, H51 with respective sizes of 3.5 and 5 μm;

- hollow hemispherical silicone resin particles such as NLK 500®, NLK 506® and NLK 510® from Takemoto Oil and Fat, especially described in EP-A-I 579 849;

- silicone resin powders, for instance the silicone resin Tospearl® 145A from GE Silicone, with a mean size of 4.5 μm;

- acrylic copolymer powders, especially of polymethyl (meth) acrylate, for instance the PMMA particles Jurymer

MBI® from Nihon Junyoki, with a mean size of 8 μm, the hollow PMMA spheres sold under the name Covabead® LH85 by the company Wackherr, and vinylidene/acrylo- nitrile/methylene methacrylate expanded microspheres sold under the name Expancel®;

- wax powders, for instance the paraffin wax particles MicroEase® 114S from MicroPowders, with a mean size of

7 μm;

- polyethylene powders, especially comprising at least one ethylene/acrylic acid copolymer, and in particular consisting of ethylene/acrylic acid copolymers, for instance the Flobeads® EA 209 particles from Sumitomo, with a mean size of 10 μm; - crosslinked elastomeric organopolysiloxane powders coated with silicone resin and especially with silsesquioxane resin, under the names KSP-100®, KSP-101®, KSP-102®, KSP-103®, KSP-104® and KSP-105® by the company Shin-Etsu;

- talc/titanium dioxide/alumina/silica composite powders, for instance those sold under the name Coverleaf AR-80® by the company Catalyst & Chemicals;

- talc, mica, kaolin, lauryl glycine, starch powders crosslinked with octenyl succinate anhydride, boron nitride, polytetrafluoroethylene powders, precipitated calcium carbonate, magnesium carbonate, magnesium hydrogen carbonate, barium sulfate, hydroxyapatite, calcium silicate, cerium dioxide and glass or ceramic microcapsules;

- hydrophilic or hydrophobic, synthetic or unnatural, mineral or organic fillers such as silk fibres, cotton fibres, wool fibres, flax fibres, cellulose fibres extracted especially from wood, vegetables or algae, Polyamides (Nylon®) fibres, modified cellulose fibres, poly-p-terephthamide fibres, acrylic fibres, polyolefin fibres, glass fibres, silica fibres, aramid fibres, carbon fibres, polytetrafluoroethylene (Teflon®) fibres, insoluble collagen fibres, polyester fibres, polyvinyl chloride fibres, polyvinylidene chloride fibres, polyvinyl alcohol fibres, polyacrylonitriles fibres, chitosan fibres, polyurethane fibres, polyethylene phthalate fibres, fibres formed from a mixture of polymers, resorbable synthetic fibres, and mixtures thereof described in patent application EP 1 151 742; spherical elastomeric crosslinked silicones, for instance Trefil E-505C® or E-506C® from Dow Corning; abrasive fillers, which, via a mechanical effect, smooth out the skin microrelief, such as abrasive silica, for instance Abrasif SP® from Semanez or nutshell powders (for example of apricot or walnut, from Cosmetochem) .

The fillers with an effect on the signs of ageing are especially chosen from porous silica microparticles, hollow hemispherical silicones, silicone resin powders, acrylic copolymer powders, polyethylene powders, crosslinked elastomeric organopolysiloxane powders coated with silicone resin, talc/titanium dioxide/alumina/silica composite powders, precipitated calcium carbonate, magnesium carbonate, magnesium hydrogen carbonate, barium sulfate, hydroxyapatite, calcium silicate, cerium dioxide, glass or ceramic microcapsules, and silk fibres or cotton fibres, and mixtures thereof.

The filler may be a soft-focus filler.

The term "soft-focus" filler means a filler which in addition gives the complexion transparency and a hazy effect. Preferably, the soft-focus fillers have a mean particle size of less than or equal to 15 microns. These particles may be in any form and in particular may be spherical or non-spherical. These fillers are more preferably non-spherical.

The soft-focus fillers may be chosen from silica and silicate powders, especially alumina powder, powders of polymethyl methacrylate (PMMA) type, talc, silica/Tic^ or silica/zinc oxide composites, polyethylene powders, starch powders, polyamide powders, styrene/acrylic copolymer powders and silicone elastomers, and mixtures thereof .

Mention may be made in particular of talc with a number-average size of less than or equal to 3 microns, for example talc with a number-average size of 1.8 microns and especially the product sold under the trade name Talc P3® by the company Nippon Talc, Nylon® 12 powder, especially the product sold under the name Orgasol 2002 Extra D Nat Cos® by the company Atochem, silica particles 1% to 2% surface-treated with a mineral wax (INCI name: hydrated silica (and) paraffin) such as the products sold by the company Degussa, amorphous silica microspheres, such as the products sold under the name Sunsphere, for example of reference H-53® by the company Asahi Glass, and silica microbeads such as those sold under the name SB-700® or SB-150® by the company Miyoshi, this list not being limiting.

The concentration of these fillers with an effect on the signs of ageing in the compositions according to the invention may be between 0.1% and 40%, or even between 0.1% and 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

Fluorescers

The term "fluorescer" means a substance which, under the effect of ultraviolet rays and/or visible light, re-emits in the visible region the portion of light that it has absorbed under the same colour as that which it naturally reflects. The naturally reflected colour is thus reinforced by the re-emitted colour and appears extremely bright.

Examples that may be mentioned include coloured polyamide and/or formaldehyde/benzoguanamine and/or melamine/formaldehyde/sulfonamide resins, from coloured aminotriazine/formaldehyde/sulfonamide co-condensates and/or from metallized polyester flakes and/or mixtures thereof. These fluorescent pigments may also be present in the form of aqueous dispersions of fluorescent pigments .

Mention may also be made of the pink-coloured fluorescent aminotriazine/formaldehyde/sulfonamide co-condensate with a mean particle size of 3-4 microns sold under the trade name Fiesta Astral Pink FEX-I and the blue-coloured fluorescent aminotriazine/ formaldehyde/sulfonamide co-condensate with a mean particle size of 3-4.5 microns sold under the trade name Fiesta Comet Blue FTX-60 by the company Swada, or alternatively the yellow-coloured benzoguanamine/ formaldehyde resin covered with formaldehyde/urea resin sold under the trade name FB-205 Yellow and the red- coloured benzoguanamine/formaldehyde resin covered with formaldehyde/urea resin sold under the trade name FB-400 Orange Red by the company UK Seung Chemical, and the orange-coloured polyamide resin sold under the trade name Flare 911 Orange 4 by the company Sterling Industrial Colors.

The fluorescent substances are preferably present in the composition in a content ranging from 0.1% to 20%, preferably from 0.1% to 15% and more preferably from 0.5% to 3% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

When the organic fluorescent substances are white, they are also known as optical brighteners .

The optical brightener has the effect of intensifying the radiance and reviving the shades of cosmetic compositions comprising them on application to the skin.

Among the optical brighteners that may be mentioned more particularly are stilbene derivatives, in particular polystyrylstilbenes and triazinestilbenes, coumarin derivatives, in particular hydroxycoumarins and aminocoumarins, oxazole, benzoxazole, imidazole, triazole and pyrazoline derivatives, pyrene derivatives and porphyrin derivatives, and/or mixtures thereof. Such compounds are available, for example, under the trade names Tinopal SOP® and Uvitex OB® from the company Ciba Geigy.

The optical brighteners preferentially used are sodium 4, 4' -bis [ (4, 6-dianilino-l, 3, 5-triazin-2-yl) amino] - stilbene-2, 2' -disulfonate, 2, 5-thiophenediylbis (5-tert- butyl-1, 3-benzoxazole) and disodium 4, 4' -distyrylbi- phenylsulfonate, and/or mixtures thereof.

Agents for promoting the naturally pinkish coloration of the skin

Mention may be made especially of: a self-tanning agent, i.e. an agent which, when applied to the skin, especially to the face, can produce a tan effect that is more or less similar in appearance to that which may result from prolonged exposure to the sun (natural tan) or under a UV lamp;

- an additional colouring agent, i.e. any compound that has particular affinity for the skin, which allows it to give the skin a lasting, non-covering coloration

(i.e. that does not have a tendency to opacify the skin) and that is not removed either with water or using a solvent, and that withstands both rubbing and washing with a solution containing surfactants. Such a lasting coloration is thus distinguished from the superficial and transient coloration provided, for example, by a makeup pigment; and mixtures thereof.

Examples of self-tanning agents that may especially be mentioned include: dihydroxyacetone (DHA) , erythrulose, and the combination of a catalytic system formed from:

- manganese and/or zinc oxide salts, and - alkali metal and/or alkaline-earth metal hydrogen carbonates .

The self-tanning agents are generally chosen from monocarbonyl or polycarbonyl compounds, for instance isatin, alloxan, ninhydrin, glyceraldehyde, mesotartaric aldehyde, glutaraldehyde, erythrulose, pyrazoline-4, 5-dione derivatives as described in patent application FR 2 466 492 and WO 97/35842, dihydroxy- acetone (DHA) and 4, 4-dihydroxypyrazolin-5-one derivatives as described in patent application EP 903 342. DHA will preferably be used.

The DHA may be used in free and/or encapsulated form, for example in lipid vesicles such as liposomes, especially described in patent application WO 97/25970.

In general, the self-tanning agent is present in an amount ranging from 0.01% to 20% by weight and preferably in an amount of between 0.1% and 10% of the total weight of the composition.

Other dyes that allow modification of the colour produced by the self-tanning agent may also be used.

These dyes may be chosen from synthetic or natural direct dyes.

These dyes may be chosen, for example, from red or orange dyes of the fluorane type such as those described in patent application FR 2 840 806. Mention may be made, for example, of the following dyes:

- tetrabromofluoresceine or eosin known under the CTFA name: CI 45380 or Red 21; - phloxin B known under the CTFA name: CI 45410 or Red 27;

- diiodofluoresceine known under the CTFA name: CI 45425 or Orange 10; - dibromofluoresceine known under the CTFA name: CI 45370 or Orange 5;

- the sodium salt of tetrabromofluoresceine known under the CTFA name: CI 45380 (Na salt) or Red 22; - the sodium salt of phloxin B known under the CTFA name: CI 45410 (Na salt) or Red 28;

- the sodium salt of diiodofluoresceine known under the CTFA name: CI 45425 (Na salt) or Orange 11;

- erythrosine known under the CTFA name: CI 45430 or Acid Red 51;

- phloxin known under the CTFA name: CI 45405 or Acid Red 98.

These dyes may also be chosen from anthraquinones, caramel, carmine, carbon black, azulene blues, methoxalene, trioxalene, guajazulene, chamuzulene, rose Bengal, eosin 1OB, cyanosin and daphinin.

These dyes may also be chosen from indole derivatives, for instance the monohydroxyindoles as described in patent FR 2 651 126 (i.e.: 4-, 5-, 6- or 7-hydroxy- indole) or the dihydroxyindoles as described in patent

EP-B-O 425 324 (i.e.: 5, 6-dihydroxyindole, 2-methyl-

5, 6-dihydroxyindole, 3-methyl-5, 6-dihydroxyindole or 2, 3-dimethyl-5, 6-dihydroxyindole) .

Abrasive fillers or exfoliants

As exfoliants that may be used in rinse-out compositions according to the invention, examples that may be mentioned include exfoliants for scrubbing particles of mineral, plant or organic origin. Thus, polyethylene beads or powder, Nylon powder, polyvinyl chloride powder, pumice powder, ground apricot kernel or walnut husk, sawdust, glass beads and alumina, and mixtures thereof, may be used, for example.

Mention may also be made of Exfogreen® from Solabia (bamboo extract) , extracts of strawberry akenes

(Strawberry Akenes from Greentech) , peach kernel powder, apricot kernel powder, and finally, in the field of plant powders with an abrasive effect, mention may be made of cranberry kernel powder.

As abrasive fillers or exfoliants that are preferred according to the invention, mention will be made of peach kernel powder, apricot kernel powder, cranberry kernel powder, strawberry akene extracts and bamboo extracts .

The examples that follow serve to illustrate the invention without, however, being limiting in nature. In these examples, the amounts of the composition ingredients are given as weight percentages relative to the total weight of the composition.

Concrete but in no way limiting examples illustrating the invention will now be given.

FORMULATION EXAMPLES 1 to 5

The following compositions are prepared:

(*) outside the invention

1. Photostabilization of 4- (tert-butyl) -4' -methoxy- dibenzoylmethane with 2-hexyldecyl N-myristoyl-N- methylaminopropionate

The photostability of the dibenzoylmethane derivatives is studied on formulations 1 to 5 in which the content of benzoate derivatives is varied. The support common to these formulations is as follows:

Measuring method

For each formula, three test samples and three control samples were prepared. 2 mg/cm² of formula are applied by spatula to polymethyl methacrylate plates.

The test plates are exposed for 43 minutes to a Heraeus Sun-Test machine fitted with a xenon lamp having a UV-A flux of 8.34*10^~J W/cirT and a UV-A B flux of 0.471x10 -4 W/cm². The control plates are stored for the same time at the same temperature (38-40⁰C) in darkness. After this time, the screening agents are extracted by immersing each plate in 50 g of methanol and subjecting them to ultrasonication for 15 minutes to ensure good extraction. The solutions obtained are analysed by HPLC and UV spectrophotometry.

For each test formula, the residual content of 4-tert- butyl-4' -methoxydibenzoylmethane after exposure is given as the ratio of its optical density (OD) in the exposed sample to its non-exposed optical density (OD) . The absorption corresponding to butylmethoxydibenzoyl- methane: λmax = 358 nm, is taken as the absorption maximum.

The results obtained are collated in the following table :

An improvement in the photostability of dibenzoylmethane in the presence of 2-hexyldecyl N- myristoyl-N-methylaminopropionate is clearly observed.

2. Galenical stability of the compositions

The stability of formula 5 as defined previously comprising 20% of 2-hexyldecyl N-myristoyl-N- methylaminopropionate (Amiter MA-HD) is compared with a formula 6 of the prior art identical to formula 5 but containing, instead of the Amiter MA-HD: 20% of ethyl N-butyl-N-acetylaminopropionate (R3535) .

The viscosity of each emulsion 10 minutes after its manufacture is measured: the measurement is taken using an RM180 model viscometer from the company Mettler. The measurements are performed in a bath thermostatically maintained at 25°C with a No. 2 or 3 measuring spindle depending on the viscosity of the product.

The appearance of each emulsion after storage for seven days in an oven at 45°C is observed with the naked eye (macroscopic appearance) .

The appearance of each emulsion is observed with a microscope from the company Karl Zeiss (magnification XlOO) at time t = 0.

It is clearly observed that, when compared with short- chain derivatives such as those described in EP 717 982, the derivative 2-hexyldecyl N-myristoyl-N-methylamino- propionate makes it possible to obtain good dispersion of the oil in the composition and good final galenical stability. EXAMPLES 7 to 10

(*) outside the invention

1. Photostabilization of 4- (tert-butyl) -4' -methoxy- dibenzoylmethane Principle of the method

The percentage loss of dibenzoylmethane derivative induced by exposure to a solar simulator of a formula spread as a film about 20 μm thick is measured.

The evaluation is performed by HPLC analysis of the screening agent in solution, after extraction of the films, by comparing the irradiated and non-irradiated samples .

Materials and operating conditions

Solar simulator: Oriel 1000 W machine equipped with a

4-inch outlet, with a 81017 filter and a dichroic mirror. The samples are exposed in the horizontal position .

UV-meter: Osram Centra machine equipped with two reading heads, one for UVA the other for UVB. The simulator/UV-meter assembly is calibrated annually by spectroradiometry .

Irradiance measurements taken at the start and end of exposure by placing the reading heads in the position of the sample.

The irradiations are: 0.35-0.45 mW/cm² in UVB 16-18 mW/cm² in UVA.

The residual butylmethoxydibenzoylmethane is measured by chromatography: HPLC line with diode array detector.

The loss of butylmethoxydibenzoylmethane (Avobenzone) after irradiation in the same support not containing any neutral N-acylamino acid ester derivative (Example A) is also measured.

About 20 mg of each test formula are spread onto a 10 cm² surface, on a frosted face of a molten silica disc. The exact amount is determined by weighing. Three films are exposed to the solar simulator, and three others serve as controls. The samples are exposed three by three to the light of the solar simulator for a time sufficient to deliver a UVA dose equal to 12 J corrected by the sensitivity of the UV-meter corresponding to the degradation of about 50% of the butylmethoxydibenzoylmethane (Avobenzone) in the absence of N-acyl ester derivative.

At the end of exposure, each support disc is placed in a 600 ml jar with 10 ml of a suitable solvent (generally EtOH) ; the whole is placed for 5 minutes in an ultrasonication tank. The solution is then transferred into bottles adapted to the support that is compatible with the HPLC analysis machine used. The analytical conditions may be adjusted as a function of the active agent tested.

Calculation of the losses is made from the means obtained on the irradiated and non-irradiated samples, as described below:

The neutral N-acylamino acid ester derivatives (a) , (b) and (c) according to the invention have photostabilizing effects with respect to the dibenzoylmethane derivative that are higher than those obtained with the compounds of formulations 10 and 12.

Furthermore, the emulsions 7 to 9 according to the invention comprising, respectively, compounds (a) , (b) and (c) of the invention are stable, whereas emulsion 11 undergoes phase separation after a few days with ethyl N-butyl-N-acetylaminopropionate (R3535) as demonstrated previously.

Claims

1. Composition comprising, in a cosmetically acceptable support, at least one UV-screening system, characterized in that it comprises:

(a) at least one dibenzoylmethane derivative, and

(a) (b)

(C)

(d) (e)

O

(f)

2. Composition according to Claim 1, in which the compound of formula (I) is 2-hexyldecyl N-myristoyl-N- methylaminopropionate (compound (c) ) .

3. Composition according to Claims 1 or 2, in which the compound (s) of formula (I) is (are) present in a content ranging from 0.1% to 40% by weight and preferably ranging from 0.1% to 30% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

4. Composition according to any one of Claims 1 to 3, in which the dibenzoylmethane derivative is 4- (tert- butyl) -4' -methoxydibenzoylmethane, or Butylmethoxydi- benzoylmethane, having the following formula:

5. Composition according to any one of Claims 1 to 4, in which the dibenzoylmethane derivative (s) is (are) present in contents ranging from 0.01% to 10% by weight and more preferentially from 0.1% to 6% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

6. Composition according to any one of Claims 1 to 5, characterized in that it also contains other UV-A- active and/or UV-B-active organic or mineral screening agents that are water-soluble or liposoluble or even insoluble in the commonly used cosmetic solvents.

7. Composition according to Claim 6, in which the additional organic screening agents are chosen from anthranilates; cinnamic derivatives; salicylic derivatives; camphor derivatives; benzophenone derivatives; β, β-diphenylacrylate derivatives; triazine derivatives; benzotriazole derivatives; benzalmalonate derivatives; benzimidazole derivatives; imidazolines; bis-benzazolyl derivatives; p-aminobenzoic acid (PABA) derivatives; methylenebis (hydroxyphenylbenzotriazole) derivatives; benzoxazole derivatives; screening polymers and screening silicones; α-alkylstyrene-based dimers; 4, 4-diarylbutadienes; merocyanin derivatives; and mixtures thereof.

8. Composition according to Claim 7, characterized in that the organic UV-screening agent (s) is (are) chosen from the following compounds: Ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate,

Homosalate,

Ethylhexyl salicylate,

Octocrylene,

Phenylbenzimidazolesulfonic acid, Benzophenone-3,

Benzophenone-4 ,

Benzophenone-5, n-Hexyl 2- (4-diethylamino-2-hydroxybenzoyl) benzoate,

4-Methylbenzylidenecamphor, Terephthalylidenedicamphorsulfonic acid,

Disodium phenyldibenzimidazoletetrasulfonate,

Ethylhexyltriazone,

Bis (ethylhexyloxyphenol) methoxyphenyltriazine,

Diethylhexylbutamidotriazone, 2,4, 6-Tris (biphenyl-4-yl) -1,3, 5-triazine,

2, 4, 6-Tris (dineopentyl 4' -aminobenzalmalonate) -s-triazine,

2, 4, 6-Tris (diisobutyl 4' -aminobenzalmalonate) -s-triazine,

2, 4-Bis (dineopentyl 4' -aminobenzalmalonate) -6- (n-butyl

4' -aminobenzoate) -s-triazine, Methylenebis (benzotriazolyl) tetramethylbutylphenol,

Drometrizole trisiloxane,

Polysilicone-15,

Dineopentyl 4' -methoxybenzalmalonate,

1, 1-Dicarboxy (2,2' -dimethylpropyl) -4, 4-diphenylbutadiene, 2, 4-Bis [5-1 (dimethylpropyl) benzoxazol-2-yl (4-phenyl) imino] -

6- (2-ethylhexyl) imino-1, 3, 5-triazine, and mixtures thereof.

9. Composition according to Claim 8, characterized in that the additional mineral screening agents are coated or uncoated metal oxide pigments.

10. Composition according to Claim 9, characterized in that the said pigments are chosen from coated or uncoated titanium oxide, zinc oxide, iron oxide, zirconium oxide and cerium oxide, and mixtures thereof.

11. Composition according to Claim 9 or 10, characterized in that the said pigments have a mean primary particle size of between 5 nm and 100 nm and preferably between 10 nm and 50 nm.

12. Composition according to any one of Claims 1 to

11, characterized in that it also comprises at least one adjuvant chosen from fatty substances, organic solvents, ionic or nonionic, hydrophilic or lipophilic thickeners, softeners, humectants, opacifiers, stabilizers, emollients, silicones, antifoams, fragrances, preserving agents, anionic, cationic, nonionic, zwitterionic or amphoteric surfactants, active agents, fillers, polymers, propellants, and acidifying or basifying agents.

13. Composition according to any one of Claims 1 to

12, characterized in that it is in the form of an oil- in-water or water-in-oil emulsion.

14. Composition according to any one of Claims 1 to

13, characterized in that it also contains at least one cosmetic or dermatological active agent chosen from moisturizers, desquamating agents, agents for improving the barrier function, depigmenting agents, antioxidants, dermo-decontracting agents, anti- glycation agents, agents for stimulating the synthesis of dermal and/or epidermal macromolecules and/or for preventing their degradation, agents for stimulating fibroblast or keratinocyte proliferation and/or keratinocyte differentiation, agents for promoting the maturation of the horny envelope, NO-synthase inhibitors, peripheral benzodiazepine receptor (PBR) antagonists, agents for increasing the activity of the sebaceous glands, agents for stimulating the energy metabolism of cells, tensioning agents, lipo- restructuring agents, slimming agents, agents for promoting the cutaneous capillary circulation, calmatives and/or anti-irritants, sebo-regulators or anti-seborrhoeic agents, astringents, cicatrizing agents, anti-inflammatory agents, antiacne agents; matting agents, fillers with a soft-focus effect, fluorescers, agents for promoting the naturally pinkish coloration of the skin, abrasive fillers or exfoliants, and mixtures thereof.

15. Process for improving the chemical stability towards UV radiation of at least one dibenzoylmethane derivative as defined in any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the said dibenzoylmethane derivative is combined with an effective amount of at least one neutral N-acylamino acid ester derivative of formula (I) as defined in the preceding claims.

16. Use of at least one neutral N-acylamino acid ester derivative of formula (I) as defined in the preceding claims, in a composition comprising, in a cosmetically acceptable support, at least one dibenzoylmethane derivative as defined in any one of the preceding claims, for the purpose of improving the efficacy of the said composition with respect to UV-A rays.