WO2009074960A2 - Composition cosmétique comprenant un élastomère d'organopolysiloxane et un composé pâteux - Google Patents

Composition cosmétique comprenant un élastomère d'organopolysiloxane et un composé pâteux Download PDF

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Publication number
WO2009074960A2
WO2009074960A2 PCT/IB2008/055209 IB2008055209W WO2009074960A2 WO 2009074960 A2 WO2009074960 A2 WO 2009074960A2 IB 2008055209 W IB2008055209 W IB 2008055209W WO 2009074960 A2 WO2009074960 A2 WO 2009074960A2
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composition
weight
organopolysiloxane
elastomer
company
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PCT/IB2008/055209
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English (en)
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WO2009074960A3 (fr
Inventor
Véronique Jacques
Véronique Schwartz
Xavier Blin
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L'oreal
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Publication of WO2009074960A3 publication Critical patent/WO2009074960A3/fr

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    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/33—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
    • A61K8/39—Derivatives containing from 2 to 10 oxyalkylene groups
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/84—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions otherwise than those involving only carbon-carbon unsaturated bonds
    • A61K8/89—Polysiloxanes
    • A61K8/891—Polysiloxanes saturated, e.g. dimethicone, phenyl trimethicone, C24-C28 methicone or stearyl dimethicone
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q1/00—Make-up preparations; Body powders; Preparations for removing make-up
    • A61Q1/02—Preparations containing skin colorants, e.g. pigments
    • A61Q1/04—Preparations containing skin colorants, e.g. pigments for lips
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q1/00—Make-up preparations; Body powders; Preparations for removing make-up
    • A61Q1/02—Preparations containing skin colorants, e.g. pigments
    • A61Q1/04—Preparations containing skin colorants, e.g. pigments for lips
    • A61Q1/06—Lipsticks

Definitions

  • Cosmetic composition comprising an organopolysiloxane elastomer and a pasty compound
  • the present invention is directed toward proposing a composition intended for making up and/or caring for the lips and having novel properties in terms of texture.
  • a composition intended for making up and/or caring for the lips In the field of the galenical form of formulations intended for making up and/or caring for the lips, it is known that the incorporation of silicone elastomer(s) into a making up for lips formulation can give this formulation good glidance properties, which are particularly advantageous as regards application when the making up is in a solid form of lipstick type.
  • the presence of these organopolysiloxane elastomers may give an overly satiny makeup effect.
  • the corresponding compositions form on the surface of the lips films whose protective properties are often inferior to those obtained with conventional formulations based on hydrocarbon-based oil(s).
  • the present invention relates to a cosmetic composition for caring for and/or making up the lips, comprising a fatty phase containing at least 0.1% by weight, in particular at least 0.2% by weight or even at least 0.5% by weight, relative to its total weight, of at least one organopolysiloxane elastomer and at least one hydrocarbon-based pasty compound.
  • the inventors have in fact found, unexpectedly, that the use, together with an organopolysiloxane elastomer, which is most particularly advantageous for the glidance properties it affords, of at least one hydrocarbon-based pasty compound can effectively overcome the side effects described above.
  • the galenical formulations according to the invention prove to be suitable for affording comfortable films whose glossy appearance is not affected.
  • the present invention relates to a cosmetic process for caring for and/or making up the lips, comprising at least the application to said lips of a composition as defined above.
  • the composition according to the invention is in solid form.
  • solid characterizes the state of the composition at room temperature
  • the composition according to the invention has, when it is solid, a hardness of between 40 and 400 g, or even from 50 to 300 g. It may be measured according to the following "cheese wire" method.
  • a sample of the composition under consideration is hot-casted into a stick mold 12.7 mm in diameter. The mold is then cooled in a freezer for about one hour. The stick of lipstick is then stored at 20 0 C.
  • the hardness of the samples is measured after an interval of 24 hours.
  • the hardness of the samples of compositions of the invention is measured using a DFGS2 tensile testing machine sold by the company Indelco- Chatillon.
  • the hardness corresponds to the maximum shear force exerted by a rigid tungsten wire 250 ⁇ m in diameter, advancing at a rate of 100 mm/minute.
  • composition according to the invention may be in the form of a gloss, for example.
  • the composition according to the invention comprises less than 4% by weight of water relative to the total weight of the composition, or even is totally anhydrous.
  • the water is not added during the preparation of the composition, but corresponds to the residual water provided by the mixed ingredients.
  • organopolysiloxane elastomer means a supple, deformable organopolysiloxane having viscoelastic properties and especially the consistency of a sponge or a supple sphere. Its modulus of elasticity is such that this material withstands deformation and has limited capacity for extension and contraction. This material is capable of regaining its original shape after having been stretched.
  • the elastomeric crosslinked organopolysiloxane may be obtained via a crosslinking addition reaction of diorganopolysiloxane containing at least one hydrogen bonded to silicon and of diorganopolysiloxane containing ethylenically unsaturated groups bonded to silicon, especially in the presence of a platinum catalyst; or via a dehydrogenation crosslinking condensation reaction between a diorganopolysiloxane containing hydroxyl end groups and a diorganopolysiloxane containing at least one hydrogen bonded to silicon, especially in the presence of an organotin; or via a crosslinking condensation reaction of a diorganopolysiloxane containing hydroxyl end groups and of a hydro lyzab Ie organopolysilane; or via thermal crosslinking of organopolysiloxane, especially in the presence of an organoperoxide catalyst; or via crosslinking of organopolysiloxane by high-energy
  • the elastomeric crosslinked organopolysiloxane is obtained via a crosslinking addition reaction (A) of diorganopolysiloxane containing at least two hydrogens each linked to a silicon, and (B) of diorganopolysiloxane containing at least two ethylenically unsaturated groups bonded to silicon, especially in the presence (C) of a platinum catalyst, for instance as described in patent application EP-A-295 886.
  • A crosslinking addition reaction
  • B diorganopolysiloxane containing at least two hydrogens each linked to a silicon
  • C platinum catalyst
  • the organopolysiloxane elastomer may be obtained via reaction of dimethylpolysiloxane containing dimethylvinylsiloxy end groups and of methyl- hydrogenopolysiloxane containing trimethylsiloxy end groups, in the presence of a platinum catalyst.
  • Compound (A) is the base reagent for the formation of elastomeric organopolysiloxane, the crosslinking takes place via an addition reaction of compound (A) with compound (B) in the presence of the catalyst (C).
  • Compound (A) is in particular an organopolysiloxane containing at least two hydrogen atoms linked to different silicon atoms in each molecule.
  • Compound (A) may have any molecular structure, in particular a linear-chain or branched-chain structure or a cyclic structure.
  • Compound (A) may have a viscosity at 25°C ranging from 1 to 50 000 centistokes, in particular in order to show good miscibility with compound (B).
  • the organic groups linked to the silicon atoms in compound (A) may be alkyl groups such as methyl, ethyl, propyl, butyl or octyl; substituted alkyl groups such as 2-phenylethyl, 2-phenylpropyl or 3,3,3-trifluoropropyl; aryl groups such as phenyl, tolyl or xylyl; substituted aryl groups such as phenylethyl; and substituted monovalent hydrocarbon-based groups such as an epoxy group, a carboxylate ester group or a mercapto group.
  • alkyl groups such as methyl, ethyl, propyl, butyl or octyl
  • substituted alkyl groups such as 2-phenylethyl, 2-phenylpropyl or 3,3,3-trifluoropropyl
  • aryl groups such as phenyl, tolyl or xylyl
  • substituted aryl groups such as
  • Compound (A) may thus be chosen from methylhydrogenopolysiloxanes containing trimethylsiloxy end groups, dimethylsiloxane-methylhydrogenosiloxane copolymers containing trimethylsiloxy end groups and dimethy lsilo xane- methylhydrogenosiloxane cyclic copolymers.
  • Compound (B) is advantageously a diorganopolysiloxane containing at least two lower alkenyl groups (for example C 2 -C 4 ); the lower alkenyl group may be chosen from vinyl, allyl and propenyl groups. These lower alkenyl groups may be located in any position of the organopolysiloxane molecule, but are preferably located at the end of the organopolysiloxane molecule.
  • the organopolysiloxane (B) may have a branched-chain, linear-chain, cyclic or network structure, but the linear-chain structure is preferred.
  • Compound (B) may have a viscosity ranging from the liquid state to the gum state. Preferably, compound (B) has a viscosity of at least 100 centistokes at 25°C.
  • the other organic groups linked to the silicon atoms in compound (B) may be alkyl groups such as methyl, ethyl, propyl, butyl or octyl; substituted alkyl groups such as 2-phenylethyl, 2-phenylpropyl or 3,3,3-trifluoro- propyl; aryl groups such as phenyl, tolyl or xylyl; substituted aryl groups such as phenylethyl; and substituted monovalent hydrocarbon-based groups such as an epoxy group, a carboxylate ester group or a mercapto group.
  • alkyl groups such as methyl, ethyl, propyl, butyl or octyl
  • substituted alkyl groups such as 2-phenylethyl, 2-phenylpropyl or 3,3,3-trifluoro- propyl
  • aryl groups such as phenyl, tolyl or xylyl
  • substituted aryl groups
  • the organopolysiloxanes (B) may be chosen from methylvinylpolysiloxanes, methylvinylsiloxane-dimethylsiloxane copolymers, dimethylpolysiloxanes containing dimethylvinylsiloxy end groups, dimethylsiloxane-methylphenylsiloxane copolymers containing dimethylvinylsiloxy end groups, dimethylsiloxane-diphenylsiloxane- methylvinylsiloxane copolymers containing dimethylvinylsiloxy end groups, dimethyl- silo xane-methylvinylsiloxane copolymers containing trimethylsiloxy end groups, dimethy lsilo xane-methy lpheny lsilo xane-methy lvinylsilo xane copolymers containing trimethylsiloxy end groups, methyl(3,3,
  • the elastomeric organopolysiloxane may be obtained via reaction of dimethylpolysiloxane containing dimethylvinylsiloxy end groups and of methylhydrogenopolysiloxane containing trimethylsiloxy end groups, in the presence of a platinum catalyst.
  • the sum of the number of ethylenic groups per molecule of compound (B) and of the number of hydrogen atoms bonded to silicon atoms per molecule of compound (A) is at least 5.
  • compound (A) it is advantageous for compound (A) to be added in an amount such that the molecular ratio between the total amount of hydrogen atoms bonded to silicon atoms in compound (A) and the total amount of all the ethylenically unsaturated groups in compound (B) is within the range from 1.5/1 to 20/1.
  • Compound (C) is the catalyst for the crosslinking reaction, and is especially chloroplatinic acid, chloroplatinic acid-olefm complexes, chloroplatinic acid- alkenylsiloxane complexes, chloroplatinic acid-diketone complexes, platinum black or platinum on a support.
  • the catalyst (C) is preferably added in a proportion of from 0.1 to 1000 parts by weight and better still from 1 to 100 parts by weight, as clean platinum metal per 1000 parts by weight of the total amount of compounds (A) and (B).
  • the elastomer is advantageously a non-emulsifying elastomer.
  • non-emulsifying defines organopolysiloxane elastomers that do not contain any polyoxyalkylene units (especially polyoxyethylene or polyoxypropylene).
  • the elastomeric crosslinked organopolysiloxane particles are conveyed in the form of a gel constituted of an elastomeric organopolysiloxane included in at least one hydrocarbon-based oil and/or one silicone oil.
  • the organopolysiloxane particles are often nonspherical particles.
  • Non-emulsifying elastomers are especially described in patents EP 242 219, EP 285 886 and EP 765 656 and in patent application JP-A-61-194 009.
  • a non-emulsifying elastomer of the invention may advantageously improve the stability of a composition according to the invention.
  • a non-emulsifying elastomer may be used as a compatibilizing agent for preventing phases separation and/or exudation phenomenon.
  • the elastomer may also be an emulsifying elastomer.
  • emulsifying organopolysiloxane elastomer means an organopolysiloxane elastomer comprising at least one hydrophilic chain, such as polyoxyalkylenated organopolysiloxane elastomers and polyglycerolated silicone elastomers.
  • the emulsifying organopolysiloxane elastomer may be chosen from polyoxyalkylenated organopolysiloxane elastomers.
  • the polyoxyalkylenated organopolysiloxane elastomer is a crossbonded organopolysiloxane elastomer that may be obtained via a crosslinking addition reaction of diorganopolysiloxane containing at least one hydrogen bonded to silicon and of a polyoxyalkylene containing at least two ethylenically unsaturated groups.
  • the polyoxyalkylenated crossbonded organopolysiloxane is obtained by a crosslinking addition reaction (Al) of diorganopolysiloxane containing at least two hydrogens each bonded to a silicon, and (Bl) of polyoxyalkylene containing at least two ethylenically unsaturated groups, especially in the presence (Cl) of a platinum catalyst, as described, for example, in patents US 5 236 986 and US 5 412 004.
  • the organopolysiloxane may be obtained by reaction of polyoxyalkylene (especially polyoxyethylene and/or polyoxypropylene) containing dimethylvinylsiloxy end groups and of methylhydrogenopolysiloxane containing trimethylsiloxy end groups, in the presence of a platinum catalyst.
  • polyoxyalkylene especially polyoxyethylene and/or polyoxypropylene
  • methylhydrogenopolysiloxane containing trimethylsiloxy end groups
  • the organic groups bonded to silicon atoms of the compound (Al) may be alkyl groups containing from 1 to 18 carbon atoms, such as methyl, ethyl, propyl, butyl, octyl, decyl, dodecyl (or lauryl), myristyl, cetyl or stearyl; substituted alkyl groups such as 2-phenylethyl, 2-phenylpropyl or 3,3,3-trifluoropropyl; aryl groups such as phenyl, tolyl or xylyl; substituted aryl groups such as phenylethyl; and substituted monovalent hydrocarbon-based groups such as an epoxy group, a carboxylate ester group or a mercapto group.
  • alkyl groups containing from 1 to 18 carbon atoms such as methyl, ethyl, propyl, butyl, octyl, decyl, dodecyl (or lauryl
  • Compound (Al) may thus be chosen from methylhydrogenopolysiloxanes containing trimethylsiloxy end groups, dimethylsiloxane-methylhydrogenosiloxane copolymers containing trimethylsiloxy end groups, dimethylsiloxane- methylhydrogenosiloxane cyclic copolymers, or dimethylsiloxane- methylhydrogenosiloxane-laurylmethylsiloxane copolymers containing trimethylsiloxy end groups.
  • Compound (Cl) is the crosslinking reaction catalyst, and is especially chloroplatinic acid, chloroplatinic acid-olef ⁇ n complexes, chloroplatinic acid-alkenyl- siloxane complexes, chloroplatinic acid-diketone complexes, platinum black and platinum on a support.
  • the polyoxyalkylenated silicone elastomers may be formed from divinyl compounds, in particular polyoxyalkylenes containing at least two vinyl groups, reacting with Si-H bonds of a polysiloxane.
  • Polyoxyalkylenated elastomers are especially described in patents US 5 236 986, US 5 412 004, US 5 837 793 and US 5 811 487, the content of which is incorporated by reference.
  • Polyoxyalkylenated silicone elastomers that may be used include those sold under the names KSG-21, KSG-20, KSG-30, KSG-31, KSG-32, KSG-33, KSG-210, KSG-310, KSG-320, KSG-330 and KSG-340 by the company Shin-Etsu, or DC9010 and DC9011 by the company Dow Corning.
  • the emulsifying silicone elastomer may also be chosen from polyglycerolated silicone elastomers.
  • the polyglycerolated silicone elastomer according to the invention is a crossbonded elastomeric organopolysiloxane that may be obtained by a crosslinking addition reaction of diorganopolysiloxane containing at least one hydrogen bonded to silicon and of polyglycerolated compounds containing ethylenically unsaturated groups, especially in the presence of a platinum catalyst.
  • the crossbonded elastomeric organopolysiloxane is obtained by a crosslinking addition reaction (A2) of diorganopolysiloxane containing at least two hydrogens each bonded to a silicon, and (B2) of glycerolated compounds containing at least two ethylenically unsaturated groups, especially in the presence (C2) of a platinum catalyst.
  • A2 crosslinking addition reaction
  • B2 glycerolated compounds containing at least two ethylenically unsaturated groups
  • the organopolysiloxane may be obtained by reaction of a polyglycerolated compound containing dimethylvinylsiloxy end groups and of methylhydrogenopolysiloxane containing trimethylsiloxy end groups, in the presence of a platinum catalyst.
  • Compound (A2) is the base reagent for the formation of elastomeric organopolysiloxane and the crosslinking is performed by an addition reaction of compound (A2) with compound (B2) in the presence of the catalyst (C2).
  • Compound (A2) is in particular an organopolysiloxane containing at least 2 hydrogen atoms bonded to different silicon atoms in each molecule.
  • Compound (A2) may have any molecular structure, in particular a linear chain or branched chain structure or a cyclic structure.
  • Compound (A2) may have a viscosity at 25°C ranging from 1 to 50 000 centistokes, especially in order to have good miscibility with compound (B2).
  • the organic groups bonded to silicon atoms of the compound (A2) may be alkyl groups containing from 1 to 18 carbon atoms, such as methyl, ethyl, propyl, butyl, octyl, decyl, dodecyl (or lauryl), myristyl, cetyl or stearyl; substituted alkyl groups such as 2-phenylethyl, 2-phenylpropyl or 3,3,3-trifluoropropyl; aryl groups such as phenyl, tolyl or xylyl; substituted aryl groups such as phenylethyl; and substituted monovalent hydrocarbon-based groups such as an epoxy group, a carboxylate ester group or a mercapto group.
  • Said organic group is preferably chosen from methyl
  • Compound (A2) may thus be chosen from methylhydrogenopolysiloxanes containing trimethylsiloxy end groups, dimethylsiloxane-methylhydrogenosiloxane copolymers containing trimethylsiloxy end groups, dimethylsiloxane- methylhydrogenosiloxane cyclic copolymers, or dimethylsiloxane-methylhydrogeno- siloxane-laurylmethylsiloxane copolymers containing trimethylsiloxy end groups.
  • Compound (B2) may be a polyglycerolated compound corresponding to formula (B') below:
  • GIy denotes:
  • the sum of the number of ethylenic groups per molecule of compound (B2) and of the number of hydrogen atoms bonded to silicon atoms per molecule of compound (A2) is at least 4. It is advantageous for compound (A2) to be added in an amount such that the molar ratio between the total amount of hydrogen atoms bonded to silicon atoms in compound (A2) and the total amount of all the ethylenically unsaturated groups in compound (B2) is within the range from 1/1 to 20/1.
  • Compound (C2) is the crosslinking reaction catalyst, and is especially chloroplatinic acid, chloroplatinic acid-olefm complexes, chloroplatinic acid- alkenylsiloxane complexes, chloroplatinic acid-diketone complexes, platinum black and platinum on a support.
  • the catalyst (C2) is preferably added in from 0.1 to 1000 parts by weight, better still from 1 to 100 parts by weight, as clean platinum metal per 1000 parts by weight of the total amount of compounds (A2) and (B2).
  • the polyglycerolated silicone elastomer according to the invention is conveyed in the form of a gel in at least one hydrocarbon-based oil and/or one silicone oil. In these gels, the polyglycerolated elastomer is often in the form of nonspherical particles.
  • Polyglycerolated silicone elastomers that may be used include those sold under the names KSG-710, KSG-810, KSG-820, KSG-830 and KSG-840 by the company
  • Non-emulsifying elastomers that may more particularly be used include those sold under the names KSG-6, KSG-15, KSG-16, KSG-18, KSG-41, KSG-42, KSG-43 and KSG-44 by the company Shin-Etsu, DC9040 and DC9041 by the company Dow Corning, and SFE 839 by the company General Electric.
  • Emulsifying elastomers that may more particularly be used include those sold under the names KSG-31, KSG-32, KSG-33, KSG-210 and KSG-710 by the company
  • composition according to the invention may comprise such an organopolysiloxane elastomer, alone or as a mixture, in a content ranging from 0.1% to
  • organopolysiloxane elastomer 0.5% to 12% by weight, or even from 0.8% to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. It is understood that, in the context of the present invention, the weight percentages of organopolysiloxane elastomer are always expressed as weight of silicone elastomer(s) active material. Hydrocarbon-based pasty compound
  • the term "pasty" is intended to denote a lipophilic fatty compound that undergoes a reversible solid/liquid change of state and that comprises, at a temperature of 23°C, a liquid fraction and a solid fraction.
  • the starting melting point of the pasty compound is less than 23°C.
  • the liquid fraction of the pasty compound measured at 23°C may represent 9% to 97% by weight of the compound. This liquid fraction at 23°C preferably represents between 15% and 85% and more preferably between 40% and 85% by weight.
  • the liquid fraction by weight of the pasty compound at 23°C is equal to the ratio of the heat of fusion consumed at 23°C to the heat of fusion of the pasty compound.
  • the heat of fusion of the pasty compound is the heat consumed by the compound to change from the solid state to the liquid state.
  • the pasty compound is said to be in the solid state when all of its mass is in solid form.
  • the pasty compound is said to be in the liquid state when all of its mass is in liquid form.
  • the heat of fusion of the pasty compound is equal to the area under the curve of the thermogram obtained using a differential scanning calorimeter (DSC), such as the calorimeter sold under the name MDSC 2920 by the company TA Instrument, with a temperature rise of 5 or 10 0 C per minute, according to standard ISO 11357-3:1999.
  • DSC differential scanning calorimeter
  • the heat of fusion of the pasty compound is the amount of energy required to make the compound change from the solid state to the liquid state. It is expressed in J/g.
  • the heat of fusion consumed at 23°C is the amount of energy absorbed by the sample to change from the solid state to the state that it has at 23 0 C, consisting of a liquid fraction and a solid fraction.
  • the liquid fraction of the pasty compound, measured at 32°C preferably represents from 30% to 100% by weight of the compound, preferably from 50% to 100% and more preferably from 60% to 100% by weight of the compound.
  • the temperature of the end of the melting range of the pasty compound is less than or equal to 32°C.
  • the liquid fraction of the pasty compound measured at 32°C is equal to the ratio of the heat of fusion consumed at 32°C to the heat of fusion of the pasty compound.
  • the heat of fusion consumed at 32°C is calculated in the same manner as the heat of fusion consumed at 23°C.
  • composition according to the invention contains at least one hydrocarbon-based pasty compound.
  • a compound may be advantageously chosen from:
  • oligomers which are homopolymers and copolymers of vinyl esters containing C8-C30 alkyl groups
  • oligomers which are homopolymers and copolymers of vinyl ethers containing C8-C30 alkyl groups
  • a composition according to the invention contains at least one hydrocarbon-based pasty compound chosen from esters.
  • esters that are especially preferred are:
  • - esters of a glycerol oligomer especially diglycerol esters, in particular condensates of adipic acid and of glycerol, for which some of the hydroxyl groups of the glycerols have reacted with a mixture of fatty acids such as stearic acid, capric acid, stearic acid and isostearic acid, and 12-hydroxystearic acid, especially such as bis-diglyceryl poly(2-acyladipate), especially sold under the brand name Softisan 649 ® by the company Sasol,
  • esters of a diol dimer and of a diacid dimer where appropriate esterif ⁇ ed on their free alcohol or acid function(s) with acid or alcohol radicals, such as Plandool-G, - and mixtures thereof.
  • esters of a glycerol oligomers in particular diglycerol esters for which some of the hydroxyl groups of the glycerols have reacted with a mixture of fatty acids in C10-C24, in particular in C 10 -C 18 .
  • Softisan 649® by the company Sasol is most particularly suitable for use in the invention.
  • the composition according to the invention may comprise a content of hydrocarbon-based pasty compound(s) ranging from 0.5% to 50% by weight relative to the weight of the composition, preferably from 1% to 40% and better still from 5% to 30% by weight relative to the weight of the composition.
  • this hydrocarbon-based pasty compound may be present in the composition in a hydrocarbon-based pasty compound(s)/organopolysiloxane elastomer(s) weight ratio at least from 0.5 to 50, from 1 to 40 and more particularly from 2 to 30.
  • a composition of the invention is devoided of lanoline and/or of olefin polymer, in particular of vaseline.
  • a composition according to the invention containing at least one hydrocarbon- based pasty compound of ester type and especially of polyester type based on glycerol, in particular bis-diglyceryl poly(2-acyladipate), in combination with at least one organopolysiloxane elastomer of crosslinked type, obtained especially by reaction of dimethylpolysiloxane containing dimethylvinylsiloxy end groups and of methylhydrogenopolysiloxane containing trimethylsiloxy end groups, in the presence of a platinum catalyst.
  • a composition of the invention should be cosmetically or dermato logically acceptable, i.e. it should contain a nontoxic physiologically acceptable medium that can be applied to human lips.
  • cosmetically acceptable means a composition of pleasant appearance, odor and feel.
  • composition may comprise at least one fatty phase.
  • the composition may comprise at least one fatty phase, especially in a proportion of at least 30% by weight, or even of at least 40% by weight.
  • This phase may contain at least one solid fatty substance chosen from waxes and pasty compounds other than those defined previously and/or a liquid fatty substance.
  • composition according to the invention may thus be in the form of a water- in-oil or oil-in-water emulsion or a water-in-oil or oil-in-water dispersion. It may be solid, liquid or pasty.
  • the fatty phase generally comprises at least one oil and/or at least one wax.
  • oil means a fatty substance that is liquid at room temperature (25°C) and atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg, i.e. 10 5 Pa).
  • the oil may be volatile or nonvolatile.
  • volatile oil means an oil that is capable of evaporating on contact with the skin or the keratin fiber in less than one hour, at room temperature and atmospheric pressure.
  • the volatile oils of the invention are volatile cosmetic oils, which are liquid at room temperature, having a nonzero vapor pressure, at room temperature and atmospheric pressure, ranging in particular from 0.13 Pa to 40 000 Pa (10 ⁇ 3 to 300 mmHg), in particular ranging from 1.3 Pa to 13 000 Pa (0.01 to 100 mmHg) and more particularly ranging from 1.3 Pa to 1300 Pa (0.01 to 10 mmHg).
  • nonvolatile oil means an oil that remains on the skin or the keratin fiber at room temperature and atmospheric pressure for at least several hours, and that especially has a vapor pressure of less than 10 " mmHg (0.13 Pa).
  • the oil may be chosen from any physiologically acceptable oil and in particular cosmetically acceptable oil, especially mineral, animal, plant or synthetic oils; in particular volatile or nonvolatile hydrocarbon-based oils and/or silicone oils and/or fluoro oils, and mixtures thereof.
  • hydrocarbon-based oil means an oil mainly comprising carbon and hydrogen atoms and optionally one or more functions chosen from hydroxyl, ester, ether and carboxylic functions.
  • the oil has a viscosity of from 0.5 to 100 000 mPa.s, preferably from 50 to 50 000 mPa.s and more preferably from 100 to
  • volatile oils that may be used in the invention, mention may be made of:
  • hydrocarbon-based oils chosen from hydrocarbon-based oils containing from 8 to 16 carbon atoms, and especially branched Cs-Ci 6 alkanes, for instance
  • C8-C16 isoalkanes of petroleum origin also known as isoparaffins
  • isododecane also known as 2,2,4,4, 6-pentamethylheptane
  • isodecane and isohexadecane for example the oils sold under the trade names Isopar or Permethyl, branched Cs-Ci 6 esters and isohexyl neopentanoate, and mixtures thereof.
  • Other volatile hydrocarbon-based oils for instance petroleum distillates, especially those sold under the name Shell SoIt by the company Shell, may also be used;
  • volatile silicones for instance volatile linear or cyclic silicone oils, especially those with a viscosity ⁇ 8 centistokes (8 x 10 "6 m 2 /s) and especially containing from 2 to 7 silicon atoms, these silicones optionally comprising alkyl or alkoxy groups containing from 1 to 10 carbon atoms.
  • volatile silicone oils that may be used in the invention, mention may be made especially of octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane, dodecamethylcyclohexasiloxane, heptamethylhexyltrisiloxane, heptamethyloctyltri- siloxane, hexamethyldisiloxane, octamethyltrisiloxane, decamethyltetrasiloxane and dodecamethylpentasiloxane; - and mixtures thereof.
  • oils of general formula (I) that may be mentioned are:
  • compositions of the invention comprise less than 2% or even less than 1% of volatile oil, or alternatively are totally free of volatile oil.
  • nonvolatile oils that may be used in the invention, mention may be made of:
  • hydrocarbon-based oils of animal origin such as perhydrosqualene
  • hydrocarbon-based plant oils such as liquid triglycerides of fatty acids of 4 to
  • 24 carbon atoms for instance heptanoic or octanoic acid triglycerides, or wheatgerm oil, olive oil, sweet almond oil, palm oil, rapeseed oil, cottonseed oil, alfalfa oil, poppy oil, pumpkin oil, marrow oil, blackcurrant oil, evening primrose oil, millet oil, barley oil, quinoa oil, rye oil, safflower oil, candlenut oil, passion flower oil, musk rose oil, sunflower oil, corn oil, soybean oil, grapeseed oil, sesame seed oil, hazelnut oil, apricot oil, macadamia oil, castor oil, avocado oil, caprylic/capric acid triglycerides, for instance those sold by the company Stearineries Dubois or those sold under the names Miglyol 810, 812 and 818 by the company Dynamit Nobel, jojoba oil and shea butter oil,
  • - synthetic esters especially of fatty acids, for instance the oils of formula RiCOOR 2 in which Ri represents a linear or branched higher fatty acid residue containing from 1 to 40 carbon atoms and R 2 represents a hydrocarbon-based chain, which is especially branched, containing from 1 to 40 carbon atoms, with Ri + R 2 > 10, for instance purcellin oil (cetostearyl octanoate), isononyl isononanoate, isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, C 12-Cl 5 alkyl benzoates, hexyl laurate, diisopropyl adipate, isononyl isononanoate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, 2-octyldodecyl stearate, 2-octyldodecyl erucate, isostearyl isostearate or tridecyl trimellitate; alcohol or polyalcohol octan
  • - higher fatty acids such as oleic acid, linoleic acid or linolenic acid, - carbonates,
  • fluoro oils that are optionally partially hydrocarbon-based and/or silicone- based, for instance fluorosilicone oils, fluoro polyethers and fluorosilicones as described in document EP-A-847 752,
  • silicone oils for instance linear or cyclic nonvolatile polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMS); polydimethylsiloxanes comprising alkyl, alkoxy or phenyl groups, which are pendent or at the end of a silicone chain, these groups containing from 2 to 24 carbon atoms; phenyl silicones, for instance phenyl trimethicones, phenyl dimethicones, phenyltrimethylsiloxydiphenylsiloxanes, diphenyl dimethicones, diphenylmethyl- diphenyltrisiloxanes and 2-phenyl ethyl trimethyl siloxysilicates,
  • PDMS linear or cyclic nonvolatile polydimethylsiloxanes
  • phenyl silicones for instance phenyl trimethicones, phenyl dimethicones, phenyltrimethylsiloxydiphenylsiloxanes, diphenyl dimethicones
  • a composition according to the invention may comprise a content of volatile or nonvolatile oils ranging from 1% to 80% by weight, for example from 5% to 70% by weight, preferably from 10% to 50% and even more preferably from 15% to 40% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the fatty phase may contain one or more solid fatty substances, especially in a content at least equal to 2% by weight and in particular at least equal to 5% by weight relative to its total weight.
  • solid fatty substances may be chosen from waxes and pasty compounds other than those defined previously, and mixtures thereof.
  • compositions according to the invention may also contain at least one wax.
  • the wax is in general a lipophilic compound that is solid at room temperature (25°C), with a solid/liquid reversible change of state, having a melting point of greater than or equal to 30 0 C, which may be up to 200 0 C and in particular up to 120 0 C.
  • the waxes that are suitable for the invention may have a melting point of greater than or equal to 45°C and in particular greater than or equal to 55°C.
  • the melting point corresponds to the temperature of the most endothermic peak observed by thermal analysis (DSC) as described in ISO standard 11357-3; 1999.
  • the melting point of the wax may be measured using a differential scanning calorimeter (DSC), for example the calorimeter sold under the name MDSC 2920 by the company TA Instruments.
  • the measuring protocol is as follows: A sample of 5 mg of wax placed in a crucible is subjected to a first temperature rise ranging from -20 0 C to 100 0 C, at a heating rate of 10°C/minute, it is then cooled from 100 0 C to -20 0 C at a cooling rate of 10°C/minute and is finally subjected to a second temperature increase ranging from -20 0 C to 100 0 C at a heating rate of 5°C/minute. During the second temperature increase, the variation of the difference in power absorbed by the empty crucible and by the crucible containing the sample of wax is measured as a function of the temperature. The melting point of the compound is the temperature value corresponding to the top of the peak of the curve representing the variation in the difference in absorbed power as a function of the temperature.
  • the waxes that may be used in the compositions according to the invention are chosen from waxes that are solid at room temperature of animal, plant, mineral or synthetic origin, and mixtures thereof.
  • waxes that are suitable for the invention, mention may be made especially of hydrocarbon-based waxes, for instance beeswax, lanolin wax, Chinese insect waxes, rice bran wax, carnauba wax, candelilla wax, ouricurry wax, esparto grass wax, berry wax, shellac wax, Japan wax and sumach wax; montan wax, orange wax and lemon wax, microcrystalline waxes, paraffins and ozokerite; polyethylene waxes, the waxes obtained by Fischer-Tropsch synthesis and waxy copolymers, and also esters thereof.
  • waxes obtained by catalytic hydrogenation of animal or plant oils containing linear or branched C8-C32 fatty chains.
  • isomerized jojoba oil such as the trans-isomerized partially hydrogenated jojoba oil manufactured or sold by the company Desert Whale under the commercial reference Iso-Jojoba-50 ® , hydrogenated sunflower oil, hydrogenated castor oil, hydrogenated coconut oil, hydrogenated lanolin oil and bis( 1,1,1 -trimethylol- propane) tetrastearate sold under the name Hest 2T-4S ® by the company Heterene.
  • Mention may also be made of silicone waxes (C30-45 alkyl dimethicone) and fluoro waxes.
  • waxes obtained by hydrogenation of castor oil esterif ⁇ ed with cetyl alcohol sold under the names Phytowax ricin 16L64® and 22L73® by the company Sophim, may also be used. Such waxes are described in patent application FR- A-2 792 190.
  • a wax that may be used is a C20-C40 alkyl (hydroxystearyloxy)stearate (the alkyl group containing from 20 to 40 carbon atoms), alone or as a mixture.
  • Such a wax is especially sold under the names Kester Wax K 82 P®, Hydroxypolyester K 82 P® and Kester Wax K 80 P® by the company Koster Keunen.
  • microwaxes that may be used in the compositions according to the invention, mention may be made especially of carnauba microwaxes, such as the product sold under the name MicroCare 350® by the company Micro Powders, synthetic microwaxes, such as the product sold under the name MicroEase 114S® by the company Micro Powders, microwaxes consisting of a mixture of carnauba wax and polyethylene wax, such as the products sold under the names Micro Care 300® and 310® by the company Micro Powders, microwaxes consisting of a mixture of carnauba wax and of synthetic wax, such as the product sold under the name Micro Care 325® by the company Micro Powders, polyethylene microwaxes, such as the products sold under the names
  • Micropoly 200®, 220®, 220L® and 250S® by the company Micro Powders and polytetrafluoroethylene microwaxes, such as the products sold under the names Microslip 519® and 519 L® by the company Micro Powders.
  • composition according to the invention may comprise a content of waxes ranging from 0.5% to 30% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition; it may in particular contain from 1% to 15% and more particularly from 5% to 15% thereof.
  • composition according to the invention may also comprise a pasty compound other than the abovementioned hydrocarbon-based compounds.
  • a pasty compound may be chosen from polymeric or nonpolymeric silicone compounds and polymeric or nonpolymeric fluoro compounds.
  • the composition according to the invention may comprise, besides the abovementioned compounds, at least one structuring agent chosen from semicrystalline polymers and lipophilic gelling agents, and mixtures thereof.
  • the composition according to the invention may comprise at least one gelling agent.
  • the gelling agents that may be used in the compositions according to the invention may be organic or mineral, polymeric or molecular lipophilic gelling agents.
  • Mineral lipophilic gelling agents that may be mentioned include optionally modified clays, for instance hectorites modified with a C 10 to C22 ammonium chloride, for instance hectorite modified with distearyldimethylammonium chloride, for instance the product sold under the name Bentone 38V® by the company Elementis.
  • fumed silica optionally subjected to a hydrophobic surface treatment, the particle size of which is less than 1 ⁇ m.
  • a hydrophobic surface treatment it is possible to chemically modify the surface of the silica, by chemical reaction generating a reduced number of silanol groups present at the surface of the silica.
  • hydrophobic groups may be: - trimethylsiloxyl groups, which are obtained especially by treating fumed silica in the presence of hexamethyldisilazane.
  • Silicas thus treated are known as "silica silylate" according to the CTFA (8th edition, 2000).
  • CTFA (8th edition, 2000). They are sold, for example, under the references Aerosil R972® and Aerosil R974® by the company Degussa, and Cab-O-Sil TS-610® and Cab-O-Sil TS- 720® by the company Cabot.
  • the hydrophobic fumed silica in particular has a particle size that may be nanometric to micrometric, for example ranging from about 5 to 200 nm.
  • the polymeric organic lipophilic gelling agents are, for example, ethylcellulose, for instance the product sold under the name Ethocel® by Dow Chemical; galactomannans comprising from one to six and in particular from two to four hydroxyl groups per saccharide, substituted with a saturated or unsaturated alkyl chain, for instance guar gum alkylated with Ci to C 6 , and in particular Ci to C3, alkyl chains, and mixtures thereof.
  • Block copolymers of "diblock”, “triblock” or “radial” type, of the polystyrene/polyisoprene or polystyrene/polybutadiene type such as the products sold under the name Luvitol HSB® by the company BASF, of the polystyrene/copoly(ethylene- propylene) type, such as the products sold under the name Kraton® by the company Shell Chemical Co., or of the polystyrene/copoly(ethylene-butylene) type, and mixtures of triblock and radial (star) copolymers in isododecane, such as those sold by the company Penreco under the name Versagel®, for instance the mixture of butylene/ethylene/styrene triblock copolymer and of ethylene/propylene/styrene star copolymer in isododecane
  • Lipophilic gelling agents that may also be mentioned include polymers with a weight-average molecular mass of less than 100 000, comprising a) a polymer backbone with hydrocarbon-based repeating units containing at least one heteroatom, and optionally b) at least one optionally functionalized pendent fatty chain and/or terminal fatty chain, containing from 6 to 120 carbon atoms and being linked to these hydrocarbon-based units, as described in patent applications WO-A-02/056 847 and WO-A-02/47619, the content of which is incorporated by reference; in particular, polyamide resins (especially comprising alkyl groups containing from 12 to 22 carbon atoms) such as those described in US-A- 5 783 657, the content of which is incorporated by reference.
  • lipophilic gelling agents that may be used in the compositions according to the invention, mention may also be made of fatty acid esters of dextrin, such as dextrin palmitates, especially the products sold under the name Rheopearl TL® or
  • Silicone polyamides of the polyorganosiloxane type may also be used, such as those described in documents US-A-5 874 069, US-A-5 919 441, US-A-6 051 216 and US- A-5 981 680.
  • silicone polymers may belong to the following two families:
  • - polyorganosiloxanes comprising at least two groups capable of establishing hydrogen interactions, these two groups being located on grafts or branches.
  • compositions may also comprise at least one film-forming polymer.
  • the composition contains at least one polymer that may be chosen from film- forming polymers.
  • polymer means a compound containing at least two repeating units and preferably at least three repeating units.
  • film- forming polymer means a polymer that is capable, by itself or in the presence of an auxiliary film-forming agent, of forming a macroscopically continuous film on a support, especially on keratin materials.
  • the polymer may be present in the composition in a content ranging from 0.1% to 60% by weight, preferably ranging from 0.1% to 50% by weight, preferably ranging from 0.5% to 40% by weight, preferentially ranging from 1% to 30% by weight and more preferentially ranging from 1% to 25% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the organic film-forming polymer is at least one polymer chosen from the group comprising: - film- forming polymers that are soluble in an organic liquid medium, in particular liposoluble polymers, when the organic liquid medium comprises at least one oil;
  • nonaqueous polymer dispersions comprise polymer particles that are surface-stabilized with at least one stabilizer
  • the composition comprises an aqueous phase
  • the composition comprises an aqueous phase.
  • the film- forming polymers that may be mentioned in particular include acrylic polymers, polyurethanes, polyesters, polyamides, polyureas, silicone polymers, silicone-grafted acrylic polymers, polyamide polymers and copolymers, and polyisoprenes. It is understood that the amount of these additional compounds may be adjusted by a person skilled in the art so as not to adversely affect the desired effect in the context of the present invention.
  • compositions according to the invention may advantageously contain at least one coloring agent, which may be chosen from water- soluble or liposoluble dyes, pigments and nacres, and mixtures thereof.
  • the composition according to the invention may also comprise one or more dyestuffs chosen from water-soluble dyes and pulverulent dyestuffs, for instance pigments, nacres and glitter flakes that are well known to those skilled in the art.
  • the dyestuffs may be present in the composition in a content ranging from 0.01% to 50% by weight relative to the weight of the composition, preferably from 0.01% to 30% by weight and in particular from 0.05% to 25% by weight relative to the weight of the composition.
  • a coloring agent that is suitable for use in the invention may be chosen from pigments, nacres and water-soluble or liposoluble dyes, and mixtures thereof.
  • pigments should be understood as meaning white or colored, mineral or organic particles, which are insoluble in an aqueous solution and which are intended to color and/or opacify the resulting film.
  • the pigments may be present in a proportion of from 0.01% to 20% by weight, especially from 0.01% to 15% by weight and in particular from 0.02% to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the cosmetic composition.
  • mineral pigments that may be used in the invention, mention may be made of titanium oxide, zirconium oxide or cerium oxide, and also zinc oxide, iron oxide or chromium oxide, ferric blue, manganese violet, ultramarine blue and chromium hydrate. They may also be pigments with a structure that may be, for example, of sericite/brown iron oxide/titanium dioxide/silica type. Such a pigment is sold, for example, under the reference Coverleaf NS or JS by the company Chemicals and Catalysts, and has a contrast ratio in the region of 30.
  • the dyestuff may also comprise a pigment with a structure that may be, for example, of silica microsphere type containing iron oxide.
  • a pigment having this structure is the product sold by the company Miyoshi under the reference PC
  • Ball PC-LL-100 P this pigment consisting of silica microspheres containing yellow iron oxide.
  • organic pigments that may be used in the invention, mention may be made of carbon black, pigments of D&C type, lakes based on cochineal carmine or on barium, strontium, calcium or aluminum, or alternatively the diketopyrrolopyrroles (DPP) described in documents EP-A-542 669, EP-A-787 730, EP-A-787 731 and WO-A-
  • DPP diketopyrrolopyrroles
  • nacres should be understood as meaning iridescent or non- iridescent colored particles of any form, especially produced by certain molluscs in their shell, or else synthesized, and which have a color effect by optical interference.
  • the nacres may be chosen from nacreous pigments such as titanium mica coated with an iron oxide, titanium mica coated with bismuth oxychloride, titanium mica coated with chromium oxide, titanium mica coated with an organic dye and also nacreous pigments based on bismuth oxychloride. They may also be mica particles at the surface of which are superposed at least two successive layers of metal oxides and/or of organic dyestuffs.
  • nacres examples include natural mica coated with titanium oxide, with iron oxide, with natural pigment or with bismuth oxychloride.
  • the mica- based nacres Timica, Flamenco and Duochrome sold by the company Engelhard mention may be made of the mica- based nacres Timica, Flamenco and Duochrome sold by the company Engelhard, the Timiron nacres sold by the company Merck, the Prestige mica-based nacres, sold by the company Eckart, and the Sunshine synthetic mica-based nacres, sold by the company Sun Chemical.
  • the nacres may more particularly have a yellow, pink, red, bronze, orangey, brown, gold and/or coppery color or tint.
  • nacres that may be used in the context of the present invention, mention may be made especially of the gold-colored nacres sold especially by the company Engelhard under the name Brillant gold 212G (Timica), Gold 222C (Cloisonne), Sparkle gold (Timica), Gold 4504 (Chromalite) and Monarch gold 233X (Cloisonne); the bronze nacres sold especially by the company Merck under the name Bronze fine (17384) (Colorona) and Bronze (17353) (Colorona) and by the company Engelhard under the name Super bronze (Cloisonne); the orange nacres sold especially by the company Engelhard under the name Orange 363C (Cloisonne) and Orange MCR 101 (Cosmica) and by the company Merck under the name Passion orange (Colorona) and Matte orange (17449) (Microna); the brown nacres sold especially by the company Engelhard under the name Nu-antique copper 340XB (Cloisonne) and Brown CL4509 (Chromalite); the bronze
  • dyes should be understood as meaning compounds that are generally organic, which are soluble in fatty substances such as oils or in an aqueous- alcoholic phase.
  • the liposoluble dyes may be chosen from Sudan red, DC Red 17, DC Green 6, ⁇ -carotene, Sudan brown, DC Yellow 11, DC Violet 2, DC Orange 5 and quinoline yellow.
  • the water-soluble dyes are, for example, beetroot juice or methylene blue.
  • the cosmetic composition according to the invention may also contain at least one material with a specific optical effect.
  • This effect is different than a simple conventional hue effect, i.e. a unified and stabilized effect as produced by standard dyestuffs, for instance monochromatic pigments.
  • the term "stabilized" means lacking an effect of variability of the color as a function of the angle of observation or alternatively in response to a temperature change.
  • this material may be chosen from particles with a metallic tint, goniochromatic coloring agents, diffracting pigments, thermochromic agents, optical brighteners, and also fibers, especially interference fibers. Needless to say, these various materials may be combined so as to simultaneously afford two effects, or even a novel effect in accordance with the invention.
  • the particles with a metallic tint that may be used in the invention are chosen in particular from:
  • - particles comprising a mono-material or multi-material organic or mineral substrate, at least partially coated with at least one coat with a metallic tint comprising at least one metal and/or at least one metal derivative, and
  • metals that may be present in said particles, mention may be made, for example, of Ag, Au, Cu, Al, Ni, Sn, Mg, Cr, Mo, Ti, Zr, Pt, Va, Rb, W, Zn, Ge, Te and Se, and mixtures or alloys thereof.
  • Ag, Au, Cu, Al, Zn, Ni, Mo and Cr and mixtures or alloys thereof are preferred metals.
  • metal derivatives is intended to denote compounds derived from metals, especially oxides, fluorides, chlorides and sulfides.
  • aluminum particles such as those sold under the names Starbrite 1200 EAC® by the company Siberline, and
  • Metalure® by the company Eckart Mention may also be made of copper metal powders or alloy mixtures such as the reference 2844 sold by the company Radium Bronze, metallic pigments such as aluminum or bronze, such as those sold under the name Rotosafe 700 from the company Eckart, the silica-coated aluminum particles sold under the name Visionaire Bright Silver from the company Eckart and metal alloy particles, for instance the silica-coated bronze (alloy of copper and zinc) powders sold under the name Visionaire Bright Natural Gold from the company Eckart.
  • They may also be particles comprising a glass substrate, such as those sold by the company Nippon Sheet Glass under the name Microglass Metashine.
  • the goniochromatic coloring agent may be chosen, for example, from multilayer interference structures and liquid-crystal coloring agents.
  • Examples of symmetrical multilayer interference structures that may be used in the compositions prepared in accordance with the invention are, for example, the following structures: AlZSiO 2 ZAlZSiO 2 ZAl, pigments having this structure being sold by the company Dupont de Nemours; Cr/MgF 2 /Al/MgF 2 /Cr, pigments having this structure being sold under the name Chromaflair by the company Flex; MoS 2 ZSiO 2 ZAlZSiO 2 ZMoS 2 ; Fe 2 O 3 ZSiO 2 ZAlZSiO 2 ZFe 2 O 3 , and Fe 2 O 3 ZSiO 2 ZFe 2 O 3 ZSiO 2 ZFe 2 O 3 , pigments having these structures being sold under the name Sicopearl by the company BASF; MoS 2 ZSiO 2 Zmica- oxideZSiO 2 ZMoS 2 ; Fe2 ⁇ 3 ZSiO 2 Zmica-oxideZSiO 2 Z
  • these pigments may be the pigments of silicaZtitanium oxideZtin oxide structure sold under the name Xirona Magic by the company Merck, the pigments of silica/brown iron oxide structure sold under the name Xirona Indian Summer by the company Merck and the pigments of silica/titanium oxide/mica/tin oxide structure sold under the name Xirona Caribbean Blue by the company Merck. Mention may also be made of the Infinite Colors pigments from the company Shiseido. Depending on the thickness and the nature of the various layers, different effects are obtained.
  • the color changes from green-golden to red-gray for SiO 2 layers of 320 to 350 nm; from red to golden for SiO 2 layers of 380 to 400 nm; from violet to green for SiO 2 layers of 410 to 420 nm; from copper to red for SiO 2 layers of 430 to 440 nm.
  • pigments with a polymeric multilayer structure include those sold by the company 3M under the name Color Glitter.
  • liquid-crystal goniochromatic particles examples include those sold by the company Chenix and also the products sold under the name Helicone® HC by the company Wacker.
  • a composition according to the invention comprises at least one filler, especially in a total content ranging from 0.01% to 50% by weight, preferably ranging from 0.01% to 30% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably from 0.1% to 15% by weight and preferentially from 1% to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • fillers should be understood as meaning colorless or white, mineral or synthetic particles of any form, which are insoluble in the medium of the composition irrespective of the temperature at which the composition is manufactured. These fillers serve especially to modify the rheology or texture of the composition.
  • the fillers may be mineral or organic and of any shape, platelet-shaped, spherical or oblong, irrespective of the crystallographic form (for example lamellar, cubic, hexagonal, orthorhombic, etc.). Mention may be made of talc, mica, perlite, which is especially commercially available from the company World Minerals Europe under the trade name Perlite P1430, Perlite P2550 or Perlite P2040, silica, kaolin, polyamide
  • nylon® powder (Orgasol® from Atochem), poly- ⁇ -alanine powder and polyethylene powder, powders of tetrafluoroethylene polymers (Teflon®), lauroyllysine, starch, boron nitride, hollow polymer microspheres such as those of polyvinylidene chloride/acrylonitrile, for instance Expancel® (Nobel Industrie) or of acrylic acid copolymers (Polytrap® from the company Dow Corning) and silicone resin microbeads (Tospearls® from Toshiba, for example), elastomeric polyorganosiloxane particles, precipitated calcium carbonate, magnesium carbonate, magnesium hydrogen carbonate, hydroxyapatite, hollow silica microspheres (Silica Beads® from Maprecos), glass or ceramic microcapsules, and metal soaps derived from organic carboxylic acids containing from 8 to 22 carbon atoms and preferably from 12 to 18 carbon atoms, for example zinc stea
  • They may also be particles comprising a copolymer, said copolymer comprising trimethylol hexyl lactone.
  • it may be a copolymer of hexamethylene diisocyanate/trimethylol hexyl lactone.
  • Such particles are especially commercially available, for example, under the name Plastic Powder D-400® or Plastic Powder D-800® from the company Toshiki.
  • composition according to the invention may also comprise any usual cosmetic ingredient, which may be chosen especially from antioxidants, fragrances, preserving agents, neutralizers, surfactants, sunscreens, sweeteners, vitamins, moisturizers, emollients, hydrophilic or lipophilic active agents, free-radical scavengers and sequestrants, and mixtures thereof.
  • cosmetic ingredient which may be chosen especially from antioxidants, fragrances, preserving agents, neutralizers, surfactants, sunscreens, sweeteners, vitamins, moisturizers, emollients, hydrophilic or lipophilic active agents, free-radical scavengers and sequestrants, and mixtures thereof.
  • compositions according to the invention may be in the form of products cast as a stick or in a dish.
  • composition according to the invention is in the form of a lipstick wand or paste, of warm colors.
  • composition of the invention may be in the form of a colored lip makeup product, for instance a lipstick or a lip pencil, optionally having care or treating properties. It may be in the form of an anhydrous stick.
  • compositions according to the invention may be in the form of liquid formulations, especially in the form of a gloss.
  • the invention also relates to a process for making up or caring for the lips, in which the composition according to the invention is applied to said lips.
  • composition according to the invention may be manufactured via the known processes generally used in cosmetics or dermatology. For example, it may be manufactured via the following process.
  • the fillers and the pigments may be ground in part of the oily phase.
  • the rest of the liposoluble ingredients may then be mixed together at a temperature of about 100 0 C.
  • the ground material or the predispersed active agents may then be added to the oily phase.
  • hydrophilic active agents if any, may then be dispersed using a mechanical mixer.
  • the composition may be poured into a mold suitable for giving it the final shape (for example a stick shape) and the whole may be left to cool at room temperature and/or in a freezer.
  • the pigments, the kaolin and the perlite are ground in part of the oily phase.
  • the waxes and the fatty substances are then mixed together at a temperature of about 100 0 C.
  • the ground material and the silicone compounds are then added.
  • the Nylon filler is added.
  • the composition is poured into a mold allowing the production of a stick 12.7 mm in diameter, and the whole is left to cool in a freezer for about one hour.
  • the stick obtained is slippery on application and produces a comfortable deposit of satisfactory gloss.

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Abstract

La présente invention se rapporte à la protection d'une composition cosmétique pour prendre soin et/ou maquiller les lèvres, comprenant une phase grasse contenant au moins un élastomère d'organopolysiloxane et au moins un composé pâteux à base d'hydrocarbure.
PCT/IB2008/055209 2007-12-13 2008-12-10 Composition cosmétique comprenant un élastomère d'organopolysiloxane et un composé pâteux WO2009074960A2 (fr)

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FR0759824A FR2924936B1 (fr) 2007-12-13 2007-12-13 Composition cosmetique comprenant un elastomere d'organopolysiloxane et un compose pateux
FR0759824 2007-12-13
US625108P 2008-01-03 2008-01-03
US61/006,251 2008-01-03

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WO2011095447A2 (fr) 2010-02-04 2011-08-11 Basf Se Compositions de pigment possédant un effet luisant amélioré
FR3015255A1 (fr) * 2013-12-23 2015-06-26 Oreal Composition comprenant une charge elastomere de silicone, une huile siliconee, un corps gras pateux, un compose hydrocarbone apolaire, utilisation comme composition anti-migration

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CN110028793B (zh) * 2019-04-19 2020-08-18 浙江新安化工集团股份有限公司 一种有机硅弹性体、其制备方法及包含其的有机硅弹性体凝胶
FR3112485B1 (fr) * 2020-07-17 2023-10-20 Lvmh Rech Composition cosmétique pour les lèvres

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US6235292B1 (en) * 1996-12-24 2001-05-22 L'oreal Transfer-free make-up or care composition containing an organopolysiloxane and a fatty phase
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